A tip for you as a lawn care nerd at the end. For your viewers, a few other tips. If possible, core aerate, scarify or dethatch before applying too, assuming you’ve not done these recently. If you have lawns like Zoysia or others that spread via stolons and rhizomes, dethatching/scarifying can increase soil contact for the Ironite as it dissolves, and reduce runoff on lawns that are not level. Plus, thatch can impede the absorption of Ironite and other products. Core aeration is obvious because as the rain or watering dissolve the irontite, it can immediately go into the root zone where it is needed versus running off. Also, I’d suggest a soil test. You could have plenty of iron in your soil and be deficient in nitrogen. I’d trust the local extension agency the most for soil tests. I used Soil Savvy last year and I don’t trust the results. From their results it said I had a surplus of nitrogen, so I skipped an application. I knew my iron was low, so I blamed my lime green lawn on an iron deficiency and started spraying liquid chelated iron. This helped, but not as much as expected. I spoke to a horticulturalist from Super-Sod and told her what my soil test said, and she said even with what the soil test said, to her, it sounded like a nitrogen deficiency more than iron. So, I started putting down nitrogen at about .5 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. every 2-3 weeks and it has been fixing the problem. Now my lawn has a checkerboard grid pattern where the spreader passes overlapped, but each application has filled in more with dark green and the lime yellow is almost totally gone. I’m going to put down another .5 pounds per 1K in the next week, and hopefully that will be enough. So, I totally hate the test results from Soil Savvy. There’s a redheaded guy in Utah that has a YT channel. I’m sure you know who, but I won’t mention the channel name to redirect your viewers out of respect to you. He said he has had good results with “My Soil” test kits. I have two on hand that I’ll employ in a month or so and compare that against my other results. For a beautiful lawn, #1 is to have a thick/dense growth of desirable turf to choke out as many weeds as possible. Preferably turf which spreads via stolons and/or rhizomes so they self-heal dead spots as weeds invade and die without reseeding. Reseeding or overseeding is such a hassle. #2 is to get ahead of weeds with a pre-emergent. Then apply appropriate post-emergents while the weeds are immature, so they are easier to kill. #3 watering is paramount to a healthy lawn. Depending on grass type, you need 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week. If you don't get that much by rain, supplement with water and sprinkler. #4 mowing. Yes, mowing is the next most important thing to a healthy lawn. Mow at the right height, never more than 1/3 of the blade height or you'll cut into the crown and scalp the lawn. If you have a lawn that can be mowed low like Zoysia, Bermuda, etc., mowing at 1/2 inch to 1.5 inches can also kill weeds that require more height for photosynthesis. People go out and buy these $4,000 to $5,000 zero turn mowers, and never stop to think about robotic mowers. ManMotion Luba and Luba 2 cost less, and use GPS and RTK to mow perfectly straight lines. The Luba 2 can be programmed to cut patterns into your lawn if you want. These are something like $1,800 to $2,300 for the ones that mow up to about ½ acre. The guy I mentioned from Utah has a recent video with a cool new robotic mower. I forget the name, but instead of small rotary mower style blades, it has a reel mower instead. It has a microphone that can tell if one side of the reel and blade need to be adjusted and does it automatically. It also has a setting to run the reel backwards and do a sharpening pass, so you don’t need to worry about sharpening the blade for longer than normal. Just don’t mow low over rocks. I think it goes from 4 inches down to about 0.75 inches, but it can only mow up to 6,000 sq. ft. per day I think? It’s still on the developmental stages so I’m sure that will change. Instead of GPS it uses LIDAR, so although it can stripe fairly straight, it’s not as straight as I’d like to show off stripes on my lawn. Set up is simple though. Have you tried T-Nex? It's a professional plant growth regulator. I'm not sure if it would be worth it if your entire lawn is 2,500 sq. ft., but it is great stuff. The name brand is the same active ingredient, but oddly, it's less expensive too. For my Zoysia lawn it takes 0.25 ounces per 1,000 sq. ft. and that will reduce my mowing by about 50% for 4 weeks. It's made for golf courses where they mow every day, so they cut their mowing and manpower expenses by 1/2 with this product. Warm season grasses use about 0.1 to 0.5 ounces per 1,000 sq. ft., so a gallon will last my years with my 15,000 sq. ft. lawn. The only down side is it may cause your lawn to slightly yellow for a few days depending on the application rate. You can double the rate to get about 8 weeks of effective reduced growth. Here comes the large list of positive effects. The product only reduces the vertical blade growth. This means the energy saved will go towards things like root growth, stolon/rhizome lateral growth. Since grass can only create so much chlorophyll, less blade growth means a little darker green in your lawn. Shorter blade length means less water evaporation so your lawn can survive with less water. The saved energy can be put towards withstanding times of plant stress. By mowing less, your grass clippings will be smaller, and that combined with less total blade clippings, that means less lawn debris. The dead debris isn’t immediately apparent, but if you take something like a Sun Joe Dethatcher and power rake your lawn and remove the dead grass, even mulched, your lawn will be greener. This will also help reduce thatch. Even if you mow because you love taking care of your lawn like me, the benefits besides less frequent mowing is still worth it for lawn care nerds like us. So, the cons…potential yellowing at higher application rates, but only for a few days. And since it’s made for golf courses, the smallest size is 1 gallon, although the name brand may be in smaller sizes with inflated per ounce costs. The T-Nex was $160 in July 2024, but even with my 15,000 sq. ft. Zoysia lawn, that will likely be 5+ year’s worth of reduced cutting. If you go on a single week long vacation, you’ll save $50 by not paying someone to mow your lawn. Lastly, you should update your text to include your next lawn video follow up if it’s possible.
Darryl, my name is Mo just wondering if you have a lawn schedule and if so would you mine emailing me please BTW your lawn looks great and being on a schedule would help tremendously thank you
Added iron to my lawn this year primarily based on one of your earlier videos. Adding iron seems to have made a significant improvement to the color of my TTTF lawn this year.
Fertilizers with high nitrogen content work great for this purpose as well. Just have to keep in mind that you are also going to get some rapid growth that will come along with the dark green color due to the nitrogen also... Good video
OMG!!!! Thank you!!!! I’ve got a new and of course …. New grass. Your video made me feel more comfortable about embracing my yard. Keep them coming!!!!!😊😊😊
They did not have to do that store like that but nevertheless yards look immaculate hard work pays off and I can tell you’ve put the work in key takeaway was knowing correct measurements great info #tunedin
Lol Yea some times those bags in the stores are all over the place. Pretty much destroyed so stay away from those bags. But yea the correct measurement are required to get the desired outcome
Another great video boss. The point about deep watering immediately after is definitely important, you don’t want the granules to oxidize (not be plant available) if it sits there exposed for too long. Also, to piggy back off of your first point… another big reason why Ironite (or any granular iron product) isn’t working for people is because their soil pH is too high making it impossible for the plant to uptake the iron. Gotta do a soil test!! Or put down humic acid to help “chelate” the iron.
Lol I came a long way. Both yards are in way way better shape than they were when I started and I'm very proud of it. Thank you I really appreciate the support 🙏🏾
I remember you broke your lawn mower towards the very beginning of the renovation on your front lawn... Like you said, things sure have come a long way since then! Congratulations and nice work man.
I have a new seeded lawn,6 weeks ago. Grass is coming in good, but have weeds, how long before I can put some weed and feed on it? Thanks ! Love your channel!
Don't even mess with the weed and feed. Depending on the type of grass you sowed you may end up doing more harm than good. Give your new lawn time to establish good roots and thicken out. If you didn't use a fertilizer high in phosphorus when you sowed the grass seed you should do so sometimes in mid to late September. Your focus with the new lawn should be on ensuring that it develops a strong root system for next year. If you hit it with high amount of nitrogen, something that most weed and feeds have, you lawn will spend most of its energy on top growth. Also, the active ingredient in some of the weed and feeds will inhibit the growth of certain grass types such as fine fescue. If I were you, I would be patient and wait until next spring to apply pre-emergent and post-emergent if necessary. Also, Lawn Amateur has a lot of videos on how to use hose end weed control products.
@@justme6256 I wrote a long response to your question with a link to a lawn maintenance calendar from lesco. Apparently youtube didn't post my response. In short, search for cool season lawn calendar by lesco. The first link should be a blog with a pdf file for cool season lawns in Michigan. That should be a good starting point for the type of applications you could consider making in the spring, summer, and fall. For now, if your lawn is overtaken by weeds, you can apply a post-emergent then overseed. Just be mindful of the seeding restrictions when using post-emergent (read the label).
What number do you use on your spreader? Rather than square footage relative to weight, isn't easier just to use the right setting on your spreader and then put the excess from the spreader back in the bag (similar to fertilizer)?
Question: I purchased a bad of ironite and was ready to apply it then I got to thinking that I am getting ready to thatch my lawn followed by core aeration then reseeding. Something tells me not to apply ironite because it may be to hot for the seed. Am I right or wrong in my thinking. Would I be better served in putting down starter fertilizer instead and save the ironite for next year. I live in Michigan. As always I appreciate your help and thoughtful guidance.
No it wouldn't be too hot for the seed but if you are going to be dethatching and overseeding your lawn soon you may want to wait just so you can use the ironite on a finished lawn. Always use starter fertilizer on new seedlings its better for the overall development
You mentioned that you will core aerate and overseed your lawn. I overseed my lawn on the side of my house only one week ago and it’s already grown 1 “ or so. I plan to rent a core aerator from Home Depot Wednesday for the rest of my lawn and overseed. If I pass the aerator over the side of my house where I overseeded last week, you think that will damage the new grass that is now about 1” tall? Thanks
Ok will old off since it’s really coming up nice, I used greenview seed mix that you used, it came up lighting fast like 4 days, I put down humid acid, tenacity and miloganite and the seed all at same time. Great results so far. Thanks for teaching us
Great video!What kind of grass is that?Not St. Augustine not Zoysia (I don't think).I'm thinking it's some type of cool season turf up more north?It has great color and thickness like a shag carpet.I'm trying to get my newly sodded empire zoysia to darken up, it's very patchy/spotty light greens right now.All the best!
I just put Yard Mastery Summer blend down yesterday. Hoping to get decent results. I'm getting over a fungus as well. How long would you wait to put down ironite?
You can wait a few weeks and then put down the ironite. That stress blend has 3% iron so you should get a nice little green pop but the ironite will give you that Greennnn Pop lol.
@@LawnAmateur that's what I need! I'm in a competition with my neighbor. They all have professionals I'm trying to compete as a DIYer. I'm losing but I haven't lost. Lol
@@justhumblemeclarke7292 sounds like your already winning to me they got professionals handling the lawn for them and you're putting in the pain for your success thats the better feeling to me knowing that you completed the project on your own. Lol you'll get them just stay consistent
I just got caught … Just tried to fertilize with “ Scot’s Max “ which normally works well for me. Hmmm: Product is all clumped, therefore it does not go through the hopper. Could I leave it out in the sun to dry out a bit and try again? My other thought was to keep it until the fall and add it to the top soil to be spread before seeding. Will that work❓ Just asking.
Some times even leaving it out in the sun won't work to stop it from clumping together. You'll be better off probably putting gloves on and breaking up the clumps by hand. Pour it into a bucket first like I did in the video and break up the clumps. And for your last question its better to keep soil and fertilizer separate. Spread the soil 1st then spread the fertilizer so you'll get an even spread over the lawn. I hope this helped
So deep water lawn , a day, or two before application, Also deep water in after application?? Good for 30 days , so a application first week of July, and first week of August would be fine , and should get me through the summer?? What’s your take on the liquid version of ironite , is it same coverage, same directions, just as effective, 30 day’s coverage???
@@LawnAmateur so Home Depot does not have liquid ironite in stock, have to order it, treeland has a liquid iron product, but it does not connect to water hose, I would have to put it in my Scott’s pump sprayer.. Is applying liquid a no brainer with directions, can I apply to wet lawn, does it need to be watered in
@@LawnAmateur I was worried about burning lawn if I apply to a wet lawn, it’s the regular 7-0-1 ironite liquid hose connector, it’s the only one that pulls up when you search it by Irionite
For the past TWO months my lawn is so beautiful and DARK GREEN because I have been watching your videos! Thank you SOOOO much!!!
I'm glad to hear that your lawn is looking good. I'm glad to be a big help with your success. Thank you so much for your support
I don't know what's better, the lawn or the waves my guy 🤣
🤣🤣✊🏾
A tip for you as a lawn care nerd at the end.
For your viewers, a few other tips.
If possible, core aerate, scarify or dethatch before applying too, assuming you’ve not done these recently. If you have lawns like Zoysia or others that spread via stolons and rhizomes, dethatching/scarifying can increase soil contact for the Ironite as it dissolves, and reduce runoff on lawns that are not level. Plus, thatch can impede the absorption of Ironite and other products. Core aeration is obvious because as the rain or watering dissolve the irontite, it can immediately go into the root zone where it is needed versus running off.
Also, I’d suggest a soil test. You could have plenty of iron in your soil and be deficient in nitrogen. I’d trust the local extension agency the most for soil tests. I used Soil Savvy last year and I don’t trust the results. From their results it said I had a surplus of nitrogen, so I skipped an application. I knew my iron was low, so I blamed my lime green lawn on an iron deficiency and started spraying liquid chelated iron. This helped, but not as much as expected. I spoke to a horticulturalist from Super-Sod and told her what my soil test said, and she said even with what the soil test said, to her, it sounded like a nitrogen deficiency more than iron. So, I started putting down nitrogen at about .5 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft. every 2-3 weeks and it has been fixing the problem. Now my lawn has a checkerboard grid pattern where the spreader passes overlapped, but each application has filled in more with dark green and the lime yellow is almost totally gone. I’m going to put down another .5 pounds per 1K in the next week, and hopefully that will be enough. So, I totally hate the test results from Soil Savvy. There’s a redheaded guy in Utah that has a YT channel. I’m sure you know who, but I won’t mention the channel name to redirect your viewers out of respect to you. He said he has had good results with “My Soil” test kits. I have two on hand that I’ll employ in a month or so and compare that against my other results.
For a beautiful lawn,
#1 is to have a thick/dense growth of desirable turf to choke out as many weeds as possible. Preferably turf which spreads via stolons and/or rhizomes so they self-heal dead spots as weeds invade and die without reseeding. Reseeding or overseeding is such a hassle.
#2 is to get ahead of weeds with a pre-emergent. Then apply appropriate post-emergents while the weeds are immature, so they are easier to kill.
#3 watering is paramount to a healthy lawn. Depending on grass type, you need 1 to 1.5 inches of water each week. If you don't get that much by rain, supplement with water and sprinkler.
#4 mowing. Yes, mowing is the next most important thing to a healthy lawn. Mow at the right height, never more than 1/3 of the blade height or you'll cut into the crown and scalp the lawn. If you have a lawn that can be mowed low like Zoysia, Bermuda, etc., mowing at 1/2 inch to 1.5 inches can also kill weeds that require more height for photosynthesis. People go out and buy these $4,000 to $5,000 zero turn mowers, and never stop to think about robotic mowers. ManMotion Luba and Luba 2 cost less, and use GPS and RTK to mow perfectly straight lines. The Luba 2 can be programmed to cut patterns into your lawn if you want. These are something like $1,800 to $2,300 for the ones that mow up to about ½ acre. The guy I mentioned from Utah has a recent video with a cool new robotic mower. I forget the name, but instead of small rotary mower style blades, it has a reel mower instead. It has a microphone that can tell if one side of the reel and blade need to be adjusted and does it automatically. It also has a setting to run the reel backwards and do a sharpening pass, so you don’t need to worry about sharpening the blade for longer than normal. Just don’t mow low over rocks. I think it goes from 4 inches down to about 0.75 inches, but it can only mow up to 6,000 sq. ft. per day I think? It’s still on the developmental stages so I’m sure that will change. Instead of GPS it uses LIDAR, so although it can stripe fairly straight, it’s not as straight as I’d like to show off stripes on my lawn. Set up is simple though.
Have you tried T-Nex? It's a professional plant growth regulator. I'm not sure if it would be worth it if your entire lawn is 2,500 sq. ft., but it is great stuff. The name brand is the same active ingredient, but oddly, it's less expensive too. For my Zoysia lawn it takes 0.25 ounces per 1,000 sq. ft. and that will reduce my mowing by about 50% for 4 weeks. It's made for golf courses where they mow every day, so they cut their mowing and manpower expenses by 1/2 with this product. Warm season grasses use about 0.1 to 0.5 ounces per 1,000 sq. ft., so a gallon will last my years with my 15,000 sq. ft. lawn. The only down side is it may cause your lawn to slightly yellow for a few days depending on the application rate. You can double the rate to get about 8 weeks of effective reduced growth. Here comes the large list of positive effects. The product only reduces the vertical blade growth. This means the energy saved will go towards things like root growth, stolon/rhizome lateral growth. Since grass can only create so much chlorophyll, less blade growth means a little darker green in your lawn. Shorter blade length means less water evaporation so your lawn can survive with less water. The saved energy can be put towards withstanding times of plant stress. By mowing less, your grass clippings will be smaller, and that combined with less total blade clippings, that means less lawn debris. The dead debris isn’t immediately apparent, but if you take something like a Sun Joe Dethatcher and power rake your lawn and remove the dead grass, even mulched, your lawn will be greener. This will also help reduce thatch. Even if you mow because you love taking care of your lawn like me, the benefits besides less frequent mowing is still worth it for lawn care nerds like us. So, the cons…potential yellowing at higher application rates, but only for a few days. And since it’s made for golf courses, the smallest size is 1 gallon, although the name brand may be in smaller sizes with inflated per ounce costs. The T-Nex was $160 in July 2024, but even with my 15,000 sq. ft. Zoysia lawn, that will likely be 5+ year’s worth of reduced cutting. If you go on a single week long vacation, you’ll save $50 by not paying someone to mow your lawn.
Lastly, you should update your text to include your next lawn video follow up if it’s possible.
I got the ironite lined up for application here in the next few weeks once temps get cooler. Looking forward to that dark green color.
Oh you'll definitely get that dark green lawn with ironite
Darryl, my name is Mo just wondering if you have a lawn schedule and if so would you mine emailing me please BTW your lawn looks great and being on a schedule would help tremendously thank you
Added iron to my lawn this year primarily based on one of your earlier videos. Adding iron seems to have made a significant improvement to the color of my TTTF lawn this year.
It definitely gives the lawn a nice green pop
Fertilizers with high nitrogen content work great for this purpose as well. Just have to keep in mind that you are also going to get some rapid growth that will come along with the dark green color due to the nitrogen also... Good video
OMG!!!! Thank you!!!! I’ve got a new and of course …. New grass. Your video made me feel more comfortable about embracing my yard. Keep them coming!!!!!😊😊😊
Thank you I'm glad I could help
Love watching people's channels grow. You're doing a great job. I enjoy your content! Keep up the lawn work!
I'm growing slow and steady lol but its ok I enjoy doing this. Thank you for your support
They did not have to do that store like that but nevertheless yards look immaculate hard work pays off and I can tell you’ve put the work in key takeaway was knowing correct measurements great info #tunedin
Lol Yea some times those bags in the stores are all over the place. Pretty much destroyed so stay away from those bags. But yea the correct measurement are required to get the desired outcome
Another great video boss. The point about deep watering immediately after is definitely important, you don’t want the granules to oxidize (not be plant available) if it sits there exposed for too long. Also, to piggy back off of your first point… another big reason why Ironite (or any granular iron product) isn’t working for people is because their soil pH is too high making it impossible for the plant to uptake the iron. Gotta do a soil test!! Or put down humic acid to help “chelate” the iron.
You're definitely on point with that.
Hi there I followed your instructions on my small back lawn So far so good the day after. I’m keeping a 👀on it though. Thanks so much,👍🙏
Thank you for your support I'm glad I could help 🙏🏾
You and out of the weeds have the best looking lawns.
Thank you I appreciate the support
Great tips. Great lawn. Thanks.
Thank you for your support
I’ve been watching you since your first videos, but fell off for about 5 months. It’s awesome to see what you’ve done with it. Great job!
Lol I came a long way. Both yards are in way way better shape than they were when I started and I'm very proud of it. Thank you I really appreciate the support 🙏🏾
I remember you broke your lawn mower towards the very beginning of the renovation on your front lawn... Like you said, things sure have come a long way since then! Congratulations and nice work man.
I can’t believe it’s been 4 years
It looks phenomenal. What setting was the spreader on ?
Thank you. With this spreader 3 1/2
Would love to see a follow up of video of the before and after 👍
Most definitely
Good info on how to apply and proper amt
Thank you
I have a new seeded lawn,6 weeks ago. Grass is coming in good, but have weeds, how long before I can put some weed and feed on it? Thanks ! Love your channel!
You have to wait until 3 to 4 mows to weed new grass. Give it time to strengthen itself
Don't even mess with the weed and feed. Depending on the type of grass you sowed you may end up doing more harm than good. Give your new lawn time to establish good roots and thicken out. If you didn't use a fertilizer high in phosphorus when you sowed the grass seed you should do so sometimes in mid to late September. Your focus with the new lawn should be on ensuring that it develops a strong root system for next year. If you hit it with high amount of nitrogen, something that most weed and feeds have, you lawn will spend most of its energy on top growth. Also, the active ingredient in some of the weed and feeds will inhibit the growth of certain grass types such as fine fescue. If I were you, I would be patient and wait until next spring to apply pre-emergent and post-emergent if necessary.
Also, Lawn Amateur has a lot of videos on how to use hose end weed control products.
@@LawnAmateur Thanks!
@@delt19 Thanks for the input! I can wait till next year, when and what do you recommend then ? I live in mid Michigan
@@justme6256 I wrote a long response to your question with a link to a lawn maintenance calendar from lesco. Apparently youtube didn't post my response. In short, search for cool season lawn calendar by lesco. The first link should be a blog with a pdf file for cool season lawns in Michigan. That should be a good starting point for the type of applications you could consider making in the spring, summer, and fall.
For now, if your lawn is overtaken by weeds, you can apply a post-emergent then overseed. Just be mindful of the seeding restrictions when using post-emergent (read the label).
thanks for the tip!! whenever im at big box store i dig deep for clean bags!!! lol
Thats a must because some of those bags are terrible
I have applied 2× the recommended bag volumes with great results.
U like your lawn really dark green lawn lol
Great great advice i run into clumpy bags all time
The clumpy bags are terrible
That backyard tho!!! 🔥
Thanl you I appreciate the support
Nice job. Thx for posting this.
No problem thank you for your support
great looking lawn!
Thank you
Do you know the setting for spreading for Scott’s wizz spreader for ironite?
I believe spreader setting 4 for the Wizz
You got yourself a new subscriber.
Thank you 🙏🏾
What number do you use on your spreader? Rather than square footage relative to weight, isn't easier just to use the right setting on your spreader and then put the excess from the spreader back in the bag (similar to fertilizer)?
No you have to know the square footage of the area you're trying to cover to get accurate coverage
I’m about apply. How many times a year would you recommend: I live in south Texas and the heat is brutal down here
You can apply it a minimum of 4x a season
Once again great video
Thank you I appreciate your support
Looking good. Good work.
Thank you
Question:
I purchased a bad of ironite and was ready to apply it then I got to thinking that I am getting ready to thatch my lawn followed by core aeration then reseeding. Something tells me not to apply ironite because it may be to hot for the seed. Am I right or wrong in my thinking. Would I be better served in putting down starter fertilizer instead and save the ironite for next year. I live in Michigan. As always I appreciate your help and thoughtful guidance.
No it wouldn't be too hot for the seed but if you are going to be dethatching and overseeding your lawn soon you may want to wait just so you can use the ironite on a finished lawn. Always use starter fertilizer on new seedlings its better for the overall development
Thank you for the advice!!!!!
No problem I'm glad I could help
Aside from what the bag says , how long does it take to get full results in your experience?
I seen results in 4 to 5 days after deep watering
@@LawnAmateur 💪
So that bag gives you like two separate applications worth??
Nice how often would you need to apply??
I just subscribed! 😁👍
Does Ironite assist growth or just deepen the color?
Thank you. Ironite doesn't do much for growth. You'll get a little growth but it's mainly for the dark green color
Getting ready to overseed , how long should I wait to put down ironite or should I wait till next spring? Thanks
You can apply it after the new grass seed get established after (3 mows.)
What should the weather be when you Put down on night
It can go down any time spring through fall
Great video Brotha
Thank you
You mentioned that you will core aerate and overseed your lawn. I overseed my lawn on the side of my house only one week ago and it’s already grown 1 “ or so. I plan to rent a core aerator from Home Depot Wednesday for the rest of my lawn and overseed. If I pass the aerator over the side of my house where I overseeded last week, you think that will damage the new grass that is now about 1” tall? Thanks
Yes it can possibly damage the new seedlings.
Ok will old off since it’s really coming up nice, I used greenview seed mix that you used, it came up lighting fast like 4 days, I put down humid acid, tenacity and miloganite and the seed all at same time. Great results so far. Thanks for teaching us
Good work,
Thank you I appreciate the support
How often do you put ironite down? And what months? Thank you
I normally put it down twice a season. In the summer, like June or July
@@LawnAmateur can I put I down in mid May? And then mid July. Between my fertilizing schedule.
What is that handheld sprayer? A Ryobi I want to get one of those . battery powered spreader what is it?
Its a ryobi 18v battery operated spreader
Is early spring a good time to apply this?
Yes early spring is fine to apply this
@@LawnAmateur TY 👍🙂
Great video!What kind of grass is that?Not St. Augustine not Zoysia (I don't think).I'm thinking it's some type of cool season turf up more north?It has great color and thickness like a shag carpet.I'm trying to get my newly sodded empire zoysia to darken up, it's very patchy/spotty light greens right now.All the best!
You're correct it's Turf type tall fescue. Thank you
Getting ready to overseed an area of my lawn, I put down humid acid and tenacity just now, would you put the seed down with it or wait? Thanks
Yea you can also put the seed down
You are not only great sharing Awesome tips but also extremely quick to answer questions. Now I can go on and put my greenview seed down, thanks
I just put Yard Mastery Summer blend down yesterday. Hoping to get decent results. I'm getting over a fungus as well. How long would you wait to put down ironite?
You can wait a few weeks and then put down the ironite. That stress blend has 3% iron so you should get a nice little green pop but the ironite will give you that Greennnn Pop lol.
@@LawnAmateur that's what I need! I'm in a competition with my neighbor. They all have professionals I'm trying to compete as a DIYer. I'm losing but I haven't lost. Lol
@@justhumblemeclarke7292 sounds like your already winning to me they got professionals handling the lawn for them and you're putting in the pain for your success thats the better feeling to me knowing that you completed the project on your own. Lol you'll get them just stay consistent
I just got caught … Just tried to fertilize with “ Scot’s Max “ which normally works well for me.
Hmmm: Product is all clumped, therefore it does not go through the hopper. Could I leave it out in the sun to dry out a bit and try again? My other thought was to keep it until the fall and add it to the top soil to be spread before seeding. Will that work❓ Just asking.
Some times even leaving it out in the sun won't work to stop it from clumping together. You'll be better off probably putting gloves on and breaking up the clumps by hand. Pour it into a bucket first like I did in the video and break up the clumps.
And for your last question its better to keep soil and fertilizer separate. Spread the soil 1st then spread the fertilizer so you'll get an even spread over the lawn. I hope this helped
What kind of grass do you have?
Turf type tall fescue by Greenview
Would that type of grass work in Dallas Texas where its hot humid and has bad cold snaps?
How often do you apply this?
I apply it maybe 2x a season
@@LawnAmateur ok cool! Thanks for that man. You give solid advice 👊🏾
How often can I put this stuff down?
I wouldn't apply ironite more than 4 times a season maybe 5. Too much iron can turn your grass gray.
@@LawnAmateur I put some down 2 weeks ago. When do you recommend to put some more down?
@@jackn.2611 you can in 30 days
@@LawnAmateur thank you .
Thank you
No problem I'm glad I could help
What about liquid ironitr
Liquid ironite is good also
What was this video about again 😊
🤣
Thanks for making this simple for females lol
Your welcome lol thank you for your support
WOW
😊
👌🏾
BRUH ❤ ❤ ❤ ❤
✊🏾
💪
I appreciate it
So deep water lawn , a day, or two before application, Also deep water in after application??
Good for 30 days , so a application first week of July, and first week of August would be fine , and should get me through the summer??
What’s your take on the liquid version of ironite , is it same coverage, same directions, just as effective, 30 day’s coverage???
Liquid ironite is great also and It'll work faster than the granular ironite. Both are used the same way
@@LawnAmateur thanks so much
@@LawnAmateur so Home Depot does not have liquid ironite in stock, have to order it, treeland has a liquid iron product, but it does not connect to water hose, I would have to put it in my Scott’s pump sprayer..
Is applying liquid a no brainer with directions, can I apply to wet lawn, does it need to be watered in
I'm not sure which iron product you have so you would have to read the directions before applying. Check out Lowes for liquid Ironite
@@LawnAmateur I was worried about burning lawn if I apply to a wet lawn,
it’s the regular 7-0-1 ironite liquid hose connector, it’s the only one that pulls up when you search it by Irionite
bro i don’t think you need to do anything more to your lawn… it’s already GRADE A+ LOL, i can sleep on that lawn
🤣🤣🤣
Can apply ironite in the summer?
Yes