I actually bought this router table, felt unaccomplished, returned it, and made my own. It's a good table, well thought out, but simply buying it took out all the fun.
Thanks for these videos, they are done really well! I am new to woodworking and so glad I came across your channel. (I was searching for Bosch Router Table setup). You really explain things clearly and the video is shot well. Your work is appreciated, please keep making more woodworking videos.
I still suck at this, but i’ll give it another go following your instructions. My issue is setting the out feed fence and the bit. I always end up with my board either hitting the outfeed fence after the bit. if i do clear the fence i’ve cut off more than i wanted cut and one side is higher than the other.
@@metalwooddesign definitely, I started testing out jointing on my router table over the weekend - definitely takes a bit of practice and seems like taking off little bits at a time is the way to go. Also realized that you can’t joint both sides and expect them to be parallel. From what I’ve gathered, I think the process would be to joint one edge on the router table and then rip the other edge on a table saw.
That's right, they usually need a true up after the one side is straightened. Also if you're doing bunch of boards, like a tabletop, if you alternate face up face down when jointing it negates any amount the cutterhead is off from 90 degrees and keeps the whole assembly flat. Thanks for the great comment! Stay safe and fun. You can make a lot of cool stuff with that thing.
I am not quite understanding why your first test pass was off. If the outfeed and infeed are offset by the 1/16th spacer you put in there, then you line up the outfeed with the bit, how did it end up off?
Here is a strange question for you. I have the same router table and a decent router and want to use it as a jointer to create smooth edges. The issue is the wood I want to joint is 2"x8" wood and I don't have or can't afford a 2" long router bit. What if I put in a larger collet in the router and just use a drill bit to use in place of a router straight cut bit? Thank you for the great videos!!!
Thanks for the question! I don't think a drill bit is going to leave a very good finish, and a drill bit in the router at router speeds is well into the unsafe category. If you want to go cheap a sharp handplane will do. Some tablesaw blades (if that's an option for you) leave an edge good enough for glueup. Have fun with your project and stay safe!!
I tried doing this with a spiral bit the boards look flat but if I hold them up to the light I can see there are some small gaps.... I suppose thats because I didn't do the test cuts the way you did? Maybe my fence was too far back and the board was rocking?
If you haven't already check the fences with a straightedge to make sure they're parallel. Then, the height (so to speak) of the cutter should be just enough so the board is supported on the outfeed fence. It takes some trial and error to get it just right. Some guys will go for a spring joint, where there's a slight gap in the middle so the board ends are tight. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Great informative video! You are both pushing the board from left to right, but also into the fence, right? If so, are you applying pressure equally to the in feed and out feed equally?
Feeds into the cutter, which is generally right to left. When it's all dialed in, outfeed clearing the cut but still supported, there's even pressure throughout.
Do you see any problem doing this with larger 2x material (e.g. 2x6, 2x8, 2x10) to make a workbench top that is reasonably smooth? What power router and bit would be good for this, on pine?
I suppose with a long enough straight bit, taking small bites at whatever pace your router will handle that could be done. Where there's a will there's a way!
I don’t see how this fixes a board with a bow. The crooked board will follow the fence and still be crooked when you’re finished. It needs to ride on a known straight edge on the opposite side and only make contact on the part that needs corrections.
The outfield fence is is offset slightly by the shim and lines up with the cutter. The freshly cut part is supported by the offset fence. Works just like a proper jointer, only on its side. Of course, just like a jointer, it takes some tuning and practice to get it just right. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the quick reply. My understanding is that the idea here is to shift outfeed fence forward exactly the same amount as the bit removes. If the board is perfectly straight and the shift and bit are 1/16”, that amount will come off. It might work ok if the board has a dip (concavity) if it is short enough such that both ends are always in contact with either fence. You’d trim the ends progressively more with each pass until finally the whole board is skimmed and straight on that side. But If there’s a bulge the board won’t sit straight against the fence and the outfeed table positioning can’t fix that. Same if the board is too long and the contact in the back is within the concavity. Maybe this same problem exists with jointers, IDK, I don’t have one.
It won't work well if the board rocks, trying to flatten the convex side. In that case typically the concave side is flattened then the other side is trimmed straight and parallel on the table saw. Of course, it depends what you have and what you're trying to do. Yes, the same problems exist with a jointer, however the longer bed and larger diameter cutter are going to work better on longer boards. With the edge cleaned up good, using good glue and clamps cranked down tight you'll get good results.
I think its best to straighten the crocked wood on a table saw with a L-fence before running it on router. This videos method is more for cleaning up the parts for glueing.
I really appreciate how simple, concise and detailed this was. Thank you.
Thank you for watching! I appreciate the comment!!
It's all in the set-up. Thanks for taking the time to emphasize that the set-up takes longer than the cut.
Thanks for watching the video! I appreciate the comment!!
I actually bought this router table, felt unaccomplished, returned it, and made my own. It's a good table, well thought out, but simply buying it took out all the fun.
Thank you for this video! I just purchased this bench and I was wondering how to use those
That's great! Thanks for the comment!! Have fun!!
Good Job.
Thanks for these videos, they are done really well! I am new to woodworking and so glad I came across your channel. (I was searching for Bosch Router Table setup). You really explain things clearly and the video is shot well. Your work is appreciated, please keep making more woodworking videos.
Thanks for watching the video! I appreciate the comment !!
I still suck at this, but i’ll give it another go following your instructions. My issue is setting the out feed fence and the bit. I always end up with my board either hitting the outfeed fence after the bit. if i do clear the fence i’ve cut off more than i wanted cut and one side is higher than the other.
That's great! A couple scraps of wood and some trial and fit until its perfect. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
@@metalwooddesign Thank you for your wisdom.
Nice, I will try this I have the same router table. Great job.
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Very helpful - thanks for walking through each step
Thanks for checking out the video. I appreciate the comment!
@@metalwooddesign definitely, I started testing out jointing on my router table over the weekend - definitely takes a bit of practice and seems like taking off little bits at a time is the way to go. Also realized that you can’t joint both sides and expect them to be parallel. From what I’ve gathered, I think the process would be to joint one edge on the router table and then rip the other edge on a table saw.
That's right, they usually need a true up after the one side is straightened. Also if you're doing bunch of boards, like a tabletop, if you alternate face up face down when jointing it negates any amount the cutterhead is off from 90 degrees and keeps the whole assembly flat. Thanks for the great comment! Stay safe and fun. You can make a lot of cool stuff with that thing.
@@metalwooddesign that’s great to know - thanks for the response! Keep up the great work 🤙🏼
nice work....i would have liked to see it dry clamped checking both sides too!
great demo. thanks
Thank you! I appreciate you watching the video and leaving a comment!!
Awesome video man, glad i found your channel
I appreciate the comment! Thanks for watching!!
Great video, thanks.
Thanks watching! I appreciate the comment!!
Before inserting the shim, the fence has to be completely straight in order to achieve the desired result.
Exactly , just have to shim it afterwards and there’s no fuss
Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment! I appreciate it!!
I am not quite understanding why your first test pass was off. If the outfeed and infeed are offset by the 1/16th spacer you put in there, then you line up the outfeed with the bit, how did it end up off?
Everything needs a test run and some tweaking before it's just right. Thanks for watching and leaving a question!
Here is a strange question for you. I have the same router table and a decent router and want to use it as a jointer to create smooth edges. The issue is the wood I want to joint is 2"x8" wood and I don't have or can't afford a 2" long router bit. What if I put in a larger collet in the router and just use a drill bit to use in place of a router straight cut bit?
Thank you for the great videos!!!
Thanks for the question! I don't think a drill bit is going to leave a very good finish, and a drill bit in the router at router speeds is well into the unsafe category. If you want to go cheap a sharp handplane will do. Some tablesaw blades (if that's an option for you) leave an edge good enough for glueup. Have fun with your project and stay safe!!
I tried doing this with a spiral bit the boards look flat but if I hold them up to the light I can see there are some small gaps.... I suppose thats because I didn't do the test cuts the way you did? Maybe my fence was too far back and the board was rocking?
If you haven't already check the fences with a straightedge to make sure they're parallel. Then, the height (so to speak) of the cutter should be just enough so the board is supported on the outfeed fence. It takes some trial and error to get it just right. Some guys will go for a spring joint, where there's a slight gap in the middle so the board ends are tight. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Great informative video!
You are both pushing the board from left to right, but also into the fence, right? If so, are you applying pressure equally to the in feed and out feed equally?
Feeds into the cutter, which is generally right to left. When it's all dialed in, outfeed clearing the cut but still supported, there's even pressure throughout.
Can the router be adjusted from the top of the table
Do you see any problem doing this with larger 2x material (e.g. 2x6, 2x8, 2x10) to make a workbench top that is reasonably smooth? What power router and bit would be good for this, on pine?
I suppose with a long enough straight bit, taking small bites at whatever pace your router will handle that could be done. Where there's a will there's a way!
I don’t see how this fixes a board with a bow. The crooked board will follow the fence and still be crooked when you’re finished. It needs to ride on a known straight edge on the opposite side and only make contact on the part that needs corrections.
The outfield fence is is offset slightly by the shim and lines up with the cutter. The freshly cut part is supported by the offset fence. Works just like a proper jointer, only on its side. Of course, just like a jointer, it takes some tuning and practice to get it just right. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the quick reply.
My understanding is that the idea here is to shift outfeed fence forward exactly the same amount as the bit removes. If the board is perfectly straight and the shift and bit are 1/16”, that amount will come off. It might work ok if the board has a dip (concavity) if it is short enough such that both ends are always in contact with either fence. You’d trim the ends progressively more with each pass until finally the whole board is skimmed and straight on that side. But If there’s a bulge the board won’t sit straight against the fence and the outfeed table positioning can’t fix that. Same if the board is too long and the contact in the back is within the concavity. Maybe this same problem exists with jointers, IDK, I don’t have one.
It won't work well if the board rocks, trying to flatten the convex side. In that case typically the concave side is flattened then the other side is trimmed straight and parallel on the table saw. Of course, it depends what you have and what you're trying to do. Yes, the same problems exist with a jointer, however the longer bed and larger diameter cutter are going to work better on longer boards. With the edge cleaned up good, using good glue and clamps cranked down tight you'll get good results.
I think its best to straighten the crocked wood on a table saw with a L-fence before running it on router. This videos method is more for cleaning up the parts for glueing.