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Splined Miter Joint - For Strong Cabinets
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- Splined Miter Joint. In thsi video Rob Shows you his technique to make strong cabinet from pywood using splined miter joint. A spline miter joint signifcantly imporved the strength of the miter joint. Let Rob show you his techniques for making this splined miter joint
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Find out more about edge banding plywood here:ruclips.net/video/5oeMesQmT5s/видео.html
Rob, from what I’ve seen so far as a novice in this craft, your level of precision and craftsmanship is second to none. I learn so much from watching your teachings. The chisel technique you used on the edge banding and the resulting fit was amazing. I can’t get enough of your content.
This is what I love about your videos. It is the common sense things that are often over looked, such as, spline material, where to place the spline, etc. It is those little things that are often over looked and also often not mentioned in other videos. I never even considered what the negative effects would be by using solid wood splines, not placing the groove in the appropriate location, etc. Thank you.
Glad we helped you out. Thnaks for watching
Rob i really appreciate your instructional vids and the format in which you do them. I have learned and applied your teachings in my recent builds. Thank you.
What video do you want to see next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ive thought about an answer to your question for a couple of hours now and to be honest i cant think of anything you havent hit on already. Dust collection? Card scrapers?
Rob! I'm so glad I found your channel. I watched all your videos when I started woodworking. Thanks
Rob- Glad I discovered you. Your tips will save me time and help to make a better project. Thanks!
I like the clamping method also I use spines on mitered joints even with solid material. Thanks Rob. Keep on smiling.
Keep on watching
Thanks Rob for another well explained, filmed and presented video. You are a natural presenter and a good teacher, of that I am sure.
Why doesn’t Hollywood recognize talent when they see it. No offers to date???? Thanks for watching
Nice job as always Professor Cos. My uncle showed me the sand paper trick years ago. He used his planes to finish wood and laughed when he said this is what sand paper is good for. Keep making these videos Rob. They are very informative.
Smart man your uncle
Great Topic, Glad you did a video on this because I have though about using a splined miter joint in my next project.
Go for it!
Nice job, thank you for the video on this useful technique Rob.
You wont want to miss Thursday’s video
Dear Rob.
Thank you very much for another very useful master class.
You asked me what video I would like to see. When connecting two parts at an angle of 45 degrees, made of solid wood, and between them a dovetail so that it cannot be seen. Here's a lesson I really want to see how it's done.?
Once again I want to thank you for sharing your skills and I am very proud to have the opportunity to learn from masters like you.
Take care of yourself there. Best regards, Daniel.
Do you mean a mitered dovetail?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Well, probably.? Dovetail, which is not visible. That the vertical wall and the horizontal one are glued together just at an angle of 45 degrees. :)
Once again, great video. Your method of work is the best, I really appreciate the knowledge you share.
Every time I wonder how many things you have to teach... I always end up learning so much from you!!! Hope to get to a good level one time in the future...
Well keep watching. What video should I do next?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I’m just watching the live show. I have an idea, hearing about all the vets you keep helping, and the fine woodworking they do. To help them further and finalize their efforts in woodworking, why don’t you make a video showing what they created with tools, knowledge and enthusiasm, promoting their works so that people watching this could maybe purchase something they build?
I used this technique to make a box out of Poplar once. My friend tells me the box is still together and square. (Not warped in his terminology) Very useful joint! Looking back I wish that I had made the splines wider like yours are,
That is awesome! A box for a liftime
I love watching you work, I always get to add to my craft, which if every day your not adding and polishing it time to get out. I don't see that day coming anytime soon. Hope you find that little glue bottle.
Thank you so much! now where is that dang bottle!
Been following your channel since lockdown, thanks for the great content. Based on your recommendations I bought a sawstop and it showed up last week.
Its by far the best and ONLY table saw anyone should buy. Great decision
Always informative and fun to watch you work ..thanks Rob.
Thanks for watching and commenting
I almost think I’d try the super glue and blue tape trick on your miter clamps... wouldn’t take much! Thanks Rob a lot of great tips in this video!
Another great lesson Rob and Team! Thanks for the video.
thnaks for watching and commenting
Rob and Luther, need to come to California, and I can put them to work assembling cabinet boxes for me! I have plenty of them to assemble! Great video, keep them coming!
I thought you had “ people” to do that?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yeah, you people!!!
I love the way you do thing and how you explain everything to the teeth.
keep watching and I will keep explaining
Thanks
Hi Rob another great tutorial and on a note I got one of your Wood River block planes and it is a joy to use I am now looking forward to having a Wood River 5 and a half
the5-1/2 is the best, you will love it
Outstanding video, I will try this. You didn't say much about the angle on the tablesaw.
45 degrees
**Rob i have a tip for you. On thevend of the tape that uou used iv you fold the end over on itself then the next time you use it you can grab it easily. It ends the frustration of trying to find thd end and trying to get it off. Hope this helps!
Great one, Rob. Thanks.
Thanks for watching
Rob,
There’s always more than one way to skin a cat. I find the following order of operation easier and more precise.
1. Cut the plywood square and slightly oversized.
2. Edge band the square plywood and trim up with a block plane.
3. Finally, cut my bevels on the table saw.
This eliminates having to use a flush trim saw and makes the bevel operation the last thing that I do, thereby reducing the risk of banging up that delicate beveled edge.
As always, thanks for the great videos. Love watching your stuff.
Yeah but then you have the spine showing ion the edge. Using his method the spline is hidden behind the edge trim. I think he mentioned this in the video.
Of course you could always do the edge trim after gluing up, but in his method I think it also helps keep the joint perfectly aligned during glue-up if the splines are tight between the edge pieces.
The issue with that order is the spline slot shows through the banding and I dont want that.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Doh! Serves me right for replying in the middle of the night. Didn't think that through. I use Dominoes to align my mitered joints, so that process works really well for me.
I needed that, thanks Rob
thanks for watching
Thanks for the video that good to know information.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for sharing. It seems like this joint would be difficult to do by hand. I do sometimes like to see the convenience of power tools.
Its a lot easier with a power tool
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
This method is serving me great, no matter what I do, I am always a little off square. Is that to be expected?
Thanks, great video!!
Thanks for watching
Nice. I never though that the tape can apply that much pressure and hold the edge. It kind of make sense, titebond requires only 30 minutes of clamping. I usually clamp the plywood against a temporary fence and use wedges to apply lateral pressure if you know what I mean. I will try your method, it looks a lot easier.
You can alos use painters taape which is a bit more stretchy
So cool, Thank you sir.
Glad you liked it!
I've got a machine for that its called lamello,very simple to use and accurate.
just looked it up at $1500 that spretty spending for a spline
First video I see from you and I love it.
I got a question... although I'm pretty sure you know a lot more about woodworking than me, am I wrong to think the yellow wood glue is usually better than the white one? At least that is true where I live, but I don't really know if it is absolutely true, if it has some significant downside or if I'm way off with this one and I've been believing a lie my whole life.
BTW, any trick for joints without a tablesaw? I want to buy one, But most of the jobsite ones seem too crappy and the shop tablesaws are expensive for a hobby. Thanks
Hey Rob. Great video...Would MDF be acceptable for spline material?
Hi Rob, why not use a quick clamp first so you can fix one end of the clamping block more easily. Then it's easy to fix the C clamp at the other end then switch the clamp at the first end? Mike PS always in awe of your skill and the extreme care you take over each operation.
Where were you when i was grabbing the clamps?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking in France at the moment and in UK ( maybe) afterJanuary. Some of my y old screw clamps have a knurled rings the screw so you can move them easily with one hand.
I want to make some acoustic panels that will hang on the wall, they will 2' x 4', and connect on all four sides, much like a picture frame. I want to make this joint you are showing. I have jobsite table saw, and the saw blade only swings to a 45 degree one way. Will i be able to make the cuts for all four corners? the fence can go on both sides, do i need to do two cuts on one side, then move the fence to the other side?
Thanks for another great video! Are you going to do a video on making the corner clamp pieces you used? I could probably reverse engineer them, but knowing what type of wood to use, what sandpaper grit and techniques for applying it, where to put the bevel, etc. would be nice.
We just finishe dshooting it. Looking for a Thursday release
Rob, did you get a chance to check out the Narex Richter chisels? If so, what are your opinions?
Thank you and your entire team for all of the great videos! The training, attention to detail and the up close and personal videos are by far the most informative on RUclips!
we are currently working on a chisel shootout video and the Richter is one of the chisels. Out in a couple of weeks.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Can't wait to see the results, thanks!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Look forward to the review mate :)
I have yet to see a Rob Cosman video were I didn't learn something. I hope to get to that skill level before I am to old to push a plane or chisel through wood.
Just get in the shop and start working, your skill level will increase quickly
For casework, I prefer the spline hidden. Suggestions? Adding the band after seems much more difficult than before...
Follow what I show on the video. Perfect banding and everything is hidden
Very good video And topic . Instead of using the flushing saw, can you use the crosscut saw ? Or maybe the small dovetail saw , that you recently showed? Thanks !!!
well yes but the issue is the brass back will force the saw blade to cant so you would have to leave more waste. I would get the flush cut saw...they are cheap
Hey Rob, is there a reason don't use your riving knife? A man should use his table saw however he sees fit but I'm just curious if there's an actual reason.
For this task there was a reason. Any time I have to make an angle cut my riving knife jams against my zero clearance insert. 90° I always try to have it in.
He mentioned his zero clearance insert being a reason but one also doesn't use a riving knife when the cut doesn't go all the way through. This is normal when one is cutting a groove for a spline as the riving knife then becomes a problem.
Do you fit your drawer sides exactly to the opening? Or are they shorter than the front and back, I ask cuz mine never end up perfectly with my drawer front and I wondered if your drawers sides are purposely narrower than the front
Sorry if you answered this already Rob but do you have a video for the clamping cauls or clamping aids?
That video is coming out Thursday
Hi Rob love this video! When assembling a box using this method do you find it more helpful to do each miter as you have demonstrated individually and then glue up the two separate subassemblies to finish the box or do you glue up all 4 corners at once?
I usually do 1/2 glue up then do the other half, but only because i dont have so many “C” clamps
Thank you for this video Rob, your experience is very much appreciated. I've had some problems cutting long miters on plywood in the past, I get chip-out along the veneer even if I use a crosscut blade. I was thinking that the next time I need to miter plywood that I would use a chamfer bit on a router table and sneak up on the right setting. Do you have an opinion on this approach?
You should not have break out. I would try: 1) nice sharp, High tooth cout crosscut blade 2) move slowly through the cut. 3) if needed put painters tape down on the wood where you will be cutting
What grit sand paper do you use on your clamps. Too course and it could leave many, miniscule indents. Too fine and maybe not grip - I think.
220
Thes spline joints proved a lot more stronger than a dovetail joinjt on a test of 10 different joints .and i think they look almost as decortive as Dovetail joints
Great video! I"m looking to do something like this, and I am wondering which woods oxidize into yellow or orange, and red over time.
Thats hard....Osage Orange, Pink Ivory, some ceadrs, flame elder
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thank you!
Hey Rob, what's the turn around time when I order some chisels, thanks for all the great videos.
Stock is good right now, orders received before noon usually go out that day.
I have other of my existencial-woodworking doubts.
I have seen people gluing miters at 45 degrees in wood. Wood witha miter of 45 degrees count like long grain or endgrain or a point in between?
This questions because, i know that glue doesnt work well in endgrain, and works great in long grain
A miter in solid wood is basically endgrain which does not make a strong glue joint. If you make the miter from plywood, then the alternating plys are 50% long grain, making a stronger joint.
I don't understand why someone of your caliber doesn't make his splines the same width as the kerf of his blade ? Why the unnecessary extra work having to make two passes plus the testing time ?
Your flush trim saw....any recommendations for purchase?
You can pick those ip just about anywhere. They are Japanese. Do an Amazon search for “ flush daw” and they will pop up
Rob, if the joint was made with practically zero tolerance, presumably it would be impossible to assemble a four-sided box without each component being moved into place simultaneously so would that require a fairly loose joint on one side?
I've made something similar, but my joinery has enough "slop" it didn't matter.
It should have zero slp then it will br petfectly square. No issues with assembly
How do you dial in the 45 degree angle on the table saw?That's the hardest thing i struggle with doing miters. Thanks
I use my combination square with the beam removed
Thoughts on using ratcheting band clamps?
They work, but I dont like that their clamping strength is essentually concentrated just on the tip of the corner
Why not make the spline 5/8 or even 1/2? I think it would still be plenty strong.
You could Its a balancing act
At the maximum rate of learning, it would take a long while to acquire your knowledge and skill level. You move around very well for man over 160 years old! 😉
I saw a video about mitered half blind dovetail joints. I was wondering if that would be any stronger than the spline and even if it is, would it be worth the trouble?
I have never done a strength test between the two but a splined miter joint is plenty strong for any fine woodworking application. I dont see why you would do a mitered blind dovetail over a spline as no one can see the dovetail....why do it?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks Rob, it did seem a bit excessive. I couldn't think why, in a practical sense, anyone would want to do it.
Wow! I’ve been woodworking for a lot of years and I’ve always avoided miter joints in casework due to strength issues. I’ve read that splined miter joints are very strong but the corner clamps that so many people use don’t apply enough pressure to the joint. So if the joint needs to be strong, I felt like I couldn’t trust it. But I’ll be using splined miter joints on my next big project. Thank you, Rob! You taught me a LOT with this video! You’ve got my brain working overtime, now, trying to figure out if there’s a good way to make some DIY clamps that will slide over the edges of the workpieces to make the clamping process a little quicker and easier. [2 minutes later, after a quick search on RUclips] You’ve already solved that! ruclips.net/video/xdmBAlVP0nI/видео.html
You definitely need to figure out an easier way to clamp up those miter joints.
Mr. Cosman, Do you recommend gluing up one side at a time like in this video or all 4 at the same time? I'm going to need more clamps if the latter.
Doesn’t seem like doing more sides at once would be a problem except for the clamps keeping the workpiece from sitting flat.
Load up on c and f clamps at harbor freight, especially when on sale. Even if a few eventually fail you’ll save a bundle. I see a lot of pros on YT using them.
If you have the clamps do all at once
Just asking but why not just do the banding first?
makes cutting the slot for the spline difficult. It would have to be stopped, wind the blade up into the miter, advance to far then stop. Now you have to cut the slot to depth by hand, pain!
I did not think that through, did I....
Great work.
I wonder if this joint is strong enough for an 18” X 24” X 12” tool cabinet? I have used finger joints before. Of course they work but miter joints would look better.
I think it is
I think ruclips.net/video/ERXdLDudBnw/видео.html goes far towards answering your question precisely: Most of the joint strengths increase almost proportionally with the amount of glue surface (up to the point where the wood itself fails, e.g. Matthias W ruclips.net/video/cRPgCMmbeyQ/видео.html ). So you look at Brad's table of results for whatever type of wood you're using, see how the mitre joint does, and realize this spline almost doubles its glue surface... Or you repeat his test yourself on a normal mitre (to see if your numbers same) plus this hidden-splined one (maybe x2 to even out variation; Brad didn't fancy 66 repeats --- I think some numbers of his are off due to material variations, as you'd expect more of a pattern of how much better/worse two joints or two materials are on the whole).
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks for the reply
@@SenselessUsername thanks for the info.
If you’re looking for your small glue bottle, look in your Grand kids tool box!😄
Good idea
You must have a spindle moulder?
There is literally nothing on RUclips about spindles.
Reason I'm sayin this is because a mitrelock joint is best for veneered boards.
I understand that your focus is on hand tooling but, you do use a tablesaw, bandsaw and surface planer(jointer) regularly on your videos so, it might not be a far reach for your audience to introduce spindle work.
Especially curved mouldings.
All best, I am a big fan and I have learnt a lot from your content on here.
From, a UK machinist/joiner
Nope I dont like the miter lock profile joint. Not as strong as a spline.
If you're looking for high quality thin plywood, visit your local hobby shop that supports the model train or RC plane hobbies or check out Midwest Industries' products online.
midwestproducts.com/collections/plywood
www.towerhobbies.com/product/craft-plywood-18-x-6-x-12-6-pieces/MID5304.html
they are G Clamps not C Clamps :P
Metric!
I enjoy cheesecake
what is your favorite flavor
Nice record clamps you have there better tools
Yes they are
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I still have a few I bought in 1967
too much work!