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Woodwork Project: Mitered Corner Box - Using Hand Tools Only - Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 19 июл 2018
- Hand Tool Woodworking.
In this project I build a wooden box with metered corners and splines using only hand tools.
This project is part of a series I'm publishing with the aim on showing that it is possible to build a range of nice projects using only the most basic of tools.
The best way to improve at woodworking is by doing it, but often the interesting projects seem to require access to expensive machine tools or specialist tools and this can seem like a barrier to getting started for those new to woodworking.
The project video was starting to get a bit long so I have split it into two. This first part deals with the construction of the box frame and lid.
Part 2 shows the completion of the project including, fitting the base, adding the corner splines, cutting the lid free and applying the finish.
See part 2 here: • Woodwork Project: Mite...
This project makes use of the miter jig I built in this project video:
• Woodwork Project: Jig ...
At last! Someone who doesnt need a Rolls Royce to take a pig to market. No saw bench, bandsaw, planer/thicknesser, dado stack, router bench, dovetail jig etc! Woodwork as opposed to machining wood.
Great vid. Should keep hobby woodworkers occupied while learning great hand tool skills. 👍👍👍👍
Thank you. I think there are enough youtube videos show how to build things with a fully equipped shop. The truth is the hobbyists are often working with a limited tool kit, I'm keen to show that people can make nice things without a fully kitted out pro workshop.
Usually my comments are negative, but this video is fantastic. Simple, plain. The sound, language, photography all are excellent. Commentary is minimal and to the point. No rambling, stumbling, folksy b.s.. I've watched many hundreds, possibly thousands of WW videos. There are only about 1 or 2 dozen sites that can match this quality. Part 2 is the same. Charge on.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it!
I am a total novice and so to watch this was so helpful. Thank you very much.
Hi Justin, I'm glad to hear you found the video useful.
Very inspirational. Your statement about striving for a "perfect workshop" but never making anything struck home with me. I also have a small shop but have been filling it with all sorts of "things that will make my projects go faster, better, etc." but relatively few projects. That will change thanks to your helpful video and a good lesson in life in general. Thanks again for the great video set.
Hi Thomas, thanks for your comment. I think the most important thing is to just start making things the moment one has access to the most basic of tools. It soon becomes clear which tools one actually needs to acquire - and having limited resources forces problem solving skills to improve. Most fancy specialist tools started life as a simpler tool used with some kid of jig. Dreaming up and building jigs and things that you make just to help make other things is all part of the fun.
So many great tips!
Glad it was helpful!
You do your good job, thanks!
Thank you.
Wow. A 'thumbs up' like from me just for sawing a (thin!) board in half with a handsaw. I've done much smaller pieces that way, but that was something. Guessing it takes quite a bit of practice. I grew up helping my dad working in his shop and we did this on very rare occasions, and I know the amount of work that takes. Great job. Definitely going to remember to watch the rest of this video later. It's nice to see people old-school woodworking where you had to rely on your skills, and not just feed it into an electric tool to do all the hard work. My dad was a big believer in doing everything by hand, as much as possible, and only going to power tools when it just wasn't feasible.
Thank you Mike. Yes, it takes a bit of practice to resaw by hand, but I think more important is the understanding of how this fits in with the full process. I'd personally never expect to end up with two boards that were ready to use (although I am sure there are people out there who are really that skilled), I know that I'm going to use a plane to tidy everything up in the next step, so if the cut wanders off the line a little it can be rectified. My main objective with this project was to show how if you have an interest in woodworking and want to make things, you don't need to wait until you have kitted out a workshop with ever tool imaginable and you can in fact make some nice things with some very simple hand tools and a bit of patience. I love working with hand tools, it's most of what I do, but I must admit to looking longingly across at my band saw several times during the hand sawing ;-)
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905, my dad was one of those guys who purposefully did things the "hard way". I called it the 'hard way', but he referred to it as the 'real way'. You probably understand what that means. He would tell my brother and me that "anyone can do this with a $1000 powertool; what separates woodworkers from the rest of the pack is being able to do just about anything by hand that a tool can do. You might not have that tool. It might be too expensive, it might be broken, or you might have loaned that tool to a 'friend' who never returned it". The lesson being: learn what it takes to do it by hand, and you'll appreciate what it takes to make something, and you'll be able to continue working in the meantime. He made the majority of his tools himself, and while at the time I thought he was crazy and they looked "awful", I now know the value of making your own stuff. The old "I shoulda paid attention when I had the chance" kind of deal. :-)
Keep up the good work! I enjoyed it.
Ah yes indeed, it does become a problem if you rely on a specific tool for a specific job and for whatever reason you don't have that tool to hand. I do try to show in my videos several methods of achieving the same thing for that very reason. Don't get me wrong, for every task there will be a perfectly designed tool which has been evolved over years by artisans to work just right and if you do a task day in/day out, it is probably worthwhile finding that ideal tool. But it doesn't mean that's the only way a task can be achieved. Also, building jigs or making tools to achieve something is all part of the project and all part of the fun. If you think about it, a plane is really just a chisel in a jig designed to keep the blade flush. A chisel is just a specialised knife, and a knife started out as a bit of sharp flint! In fact, if one wishes to get philosophical about it all, it could be argued that there are only four classes of tool; percussive tools, cutting tools, scraping tools and rotary tools - all of which have ancestry starting with lumps of rock or bits of bone. Not that I'm in a hurry to swap my trusty Stanley no4 for a sharp stone ;-)
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 haha, that's pretty good. Everything, no matter how advanced, are just iterations of the first basic tools, just improved thousands of times over. :-)
How about the join along the center line of the lid with just glue at about 25:45 or so.. I'm guessing it's fairly sturdy even though it's not reinforced in any way, except for the glue? Have you had any problems with joins like that?
I've never had problems with the strength of this kind of join on a lid. The lid isn't glued in so there is room for expansion within the dado/housing. If the lid was glued in then there is some potential for the join to be pulled apart due to the difference in the magnitude of expansion across the grain of the walnut and along the grain of the box ends. All in all, an edge join like this is pretty strong for this kind of application.
I don’t know how many times I’ve watched this video. I do know it’s a bunch. Thanks for making a great video using hand tools.👍😀
Glad it was helpful!
Too many tips❤❤❤❤
Thanks :D
That miter jig is such a great idea! I was using a miter box and was struggling to get the sides all the the same length. That jig will solve my problem! Thanks!
Excellent, I'm glad you found things useful.
Very hard work, but rewarding in the end👌
It's only hard work when you don't enjoy it ;-)
Excellent
Woodworking with hand tools is really an art.
Yes indeed, and great fun.
Very nicely done
Thank you.
That was incredible craftsmanship. Well done and thank you for sharing it.
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Perfect handwork!!!
Thank you Sergey.
Very impressive great job thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you Keith.
Really nice video. I like that the environment that you're working in is realistic to what many people will be working with; A small space without a massive range of every power tool you can imagine.
Thank you, I'm very keen to show what can be achieved in a small space.
Excellent!
Thank you William
Awesome! Very tedious and skilled work ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐👍
Thank you 👍
Excellent video ...thanks
Thank you
Great! Have learned a lot again. Thank you!
Thank you.
That's great, thanks for your message.
This is a terrific box build.
Thank you.
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شكرا لكم
Great work! My congratulations.
I was left with the impression that you left the bookmatching of the top panel on the inside. Was that on purpose?
this is like watching reruns of dragnet
If you say so.
Fantastic work!! Though I have all the power tools necessary to build this, I find that I feel slightly guilty that you could accomplish all this by hand. Well done!
Thanks Douglas.
I like it!
Thank you.
Very good! Thank you.
Thank you.
Very nicely explained 😊the card scraper you used is this ordinary piece of sheet metal with sharp edge😊
Hi, thank you. Card scrapers are very useful and very simple. The 'cutting edge; is actually a 'hook' rather than a edge that you'd might find on a knife. The hook is a bit like a 'T' shape along the edge where the horizontal part of the 'T' has been curved over to form a hook on both sides of the card. To create the hook you'll need a file to get the edge flat and ensure a nice square section along the length of the card. You then need a 'burnisher' to draw out the material for the hook and turn it over. A burnisher is really just a hardened steel rod and it is perfectly possible to use the shaft of a screwdriver or chisel as long as these are hardened steel, or at the very least, harder steel than the material which makes the card. If you have the time, take a look at Keith's video here where he shows his sharpening technique, he also adds some simple cross section diagrams which help explain what the hook looks like: ruclips.net/video/h-KYqsAPMqk/видео.html
hello! how are you ? i think that you share you hand skill in the video is very good.
Hi, I'm very well thank you and busy working on some new videos. Thanks for your comment.
You're awesome!
Thanks.
From (an old) beginner. I noticed that you used your marking gauge by pushing it away from you rather than pulling it towards you, is there a reason for this or is it just personal preference? Thanks for posting, it was great.
Hi, that's an interesting question. When I first read it I assumed it was a quick simple answer, but I've actually had to think about it quite a bit. I then had to go into the workshop and go through the motions to see what seemed right. So, here are my thoughts ...
Firstly, I realised that I actually use a gauge in both directions, mostly it depends on the shape and size of the work piece, etc.
I think habitually, I tend to push away. This is how I remember being taught as a child and so is probably more natural for me personally as I've done it countless times over the years. There are a few considerations though:
- Most of my gauges are simple pin scribes and so are omni directional. I know some gauges with a blade scribe are different and some Japanese style scribes have a directional blade and are designed to be pulled by a right handed person. The 'wheel' type scribes such as veritas make are probably more sensitive to direction as the cutting disk is screwed into the top of the shaft with a standard screw thread. This means that if a right handed person pushes then there is a possibility (maybe a remote one) that the screw could loosen over time as the blade will be exerting counter-clockwise pressure on the locking screw. So, it stands to reason that these gauges tend to be pulled.
- Some of it will depend on the shape of the gauge, how it fits in the hand and thus which direction feels more under control.
- Grain direction is a factor, with close grained hardwood its probably not an issue but if the grain is more coarse and is running 'off' the edge of the board in the push direction, I'd probably choose to pull so that if the scribe is effected by the grain it has the effect of pulling the fence hard against the edge rather than pushing it away.
- It also depends on what I'm scribing. If I'm scribing the full length or width of a board I don't worry so much, but if I'm marking out a mortice in the middle of a board I'll likely push from the 'start' to about 2/3 of the mortice and then pull back from the other side, just so I have better visibility of the lateral marks and thus avoid scribing past the end of the mortice.
In all honesty it's probably one of the topics where some righteous souls would go into battle to defend one way or another, but in reality it's more about personal preference and what works for the individual.
Do the marks come out accurate and clean, if not - try something else.
Like many things, advice is always useful but never a replacement for personal experience - just keep making things and scribing lines, you'll soon work out what works best for you and also subconsciously learn under what circumstances you go against your usual method.
Thanks for the question, it's made me think deeply about something I had been taking for granted, but is actually a very important part of woodworking.
@@adventuresint-shirtswoodwo3905 Many thanks for such a fast and comprehensive reply, it's all helping. I love the style of your 'basic hand tools' videos, you're really showing people how to complete nice projects with minimal tools or outlay, and doing so in an undramatic way. Thanks again, it's inspiring.
@@stevebungay Thank you and you are most welcome. I've got some more project videos coming very soon - some for real beginners and some a little more advanced, but hopefully there will be something useful in them all.
Wow, I don’t know how you saw such a long piece of wood in equal thickness! Oh ok , I was premature with my comment! Could I do this with sanding if I don’t have a plane? Thank you
it's highly unlikely that you would be able to get an accurate thickness by sanding. A plane is specifically designed for flattening surfaces and actually if set up and sharpened correctly, will leave a finish far smoother than sanding in a fraction of the time. It's really important to get a uniform thickness on this project as otherwise the corners won't come together square. My advice would be to save up and buy a plane if you can and then spend some time learning to sharpen and use it - you won't regret it. And it needn't be expensive. A second hand number 4 smoothing plane can be found for £5-10, maybe £25 for a really nice one. Those are UK prices, but would be a similar amount of dollars in the US.
Great box! Is it possible to chop out the housing with a bevel edged chisel? Or would I need a mortice chisel for that?
Hi Dwight. I pretty much only ever user bevel edge chisels, even for morticing! I have a couple of mortice chisels but often the are not the right size so I use the bevel edge chisels instead.
Nice work. A Stanley 45 would've made short work of those dados and rebates.
Yes indeed, I use mine regularly. I think in this case I was trying to show how to do things with the limited set of tools that a new woodworker or hobbyist on a budget might have. I myself had been woodworking for years before I had any think like a plough or rebate plane. I've definitely filmed a project where I use a 45, though can't remember if I've edited it yet - I'm running behind a bit as work got in the way for the last year.
I'm very new to woodworking but would the plough plane not leave a wider dado than the chisel? I know very little about plough planes but I'd love to be wrong about this since I scored one to restore for very cheap recently.
@@Indecisionn They came with a set of irons (21 or 22) down to 1/8". Find one of those sets and you're good to go. There are many YT videos on these. Try Wood By Wright as a starter. He had a couple that are informative. Good luck and happy ploughing. Uh... you know what I mean.
Only if you own one. A router table or table saw would be quicker even more.
@@williambranham6249 Actually, I can set up a plough plane faster than a router table or table saw, and I don't have to listen to the roar. To me, the journey is the point, not the destination.
Crap i got a plane but is rubbish i dont think i know how to use it.
Check out videos by Paul Sellers - he'll have you using your plane in no time at all.
I had trouble watching this because I own some tools from the 20th century.
:D
Josef then use them and watch something else. Or better still just buy a box!