the FLAW with Ultimate crosscut sleds
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- Опубликовано: 18 ноя 2022
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To be a little more exact with the five-cut method simplification:
1. The test board needs to be square.
2. The size of the test board needs to be the same as the distance between the two screws (one screw is the pivot, one screw is likely near the end of the fence)
3. The pivot point needs to be as close to the blade as possible (1" should do).
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PROJECT PARTS:
25 - ½”/650mm Miter Bar: geni.us/otAWpU
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Adhesive Measuring Tape:
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DOWELMAX:
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DOWELMAX 1/2" Expansion:
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BLADES:
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Miter Saw Blade: lddy.no/1i8tz
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BITS:
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Welp I am new to wood working and bought myself a nice but smaller tablel saw yesterday and I have been watching video's to educate myself on how to make a sled. after watching three other video's my heart sank becauseeee my table saw only has one track. I understand the five cut method and was trying to write down the math form for adjusting the cuts. LET ME TELL YOU, your video replenished my heart and your sled is exactly what I need to make for my table. Now I just have to buy me a router and a band saw and that should be good to last me a lifetime since I will be 66 next month. Thanks for giving this old lady hope!
I demo-ed a 1950's kitchen for a remodel and found that the old cabinet doors are perfect for saw sleds. High quality 3/4 birch veneer plywood and very dimensionally stable after all this time. Best of all, they were free! I've also cut up the smaller doors for a number of one time and multi-use jigs.
15:04 My method to attach the fence:
1) Drill two holes to attach the fence. The hole nearest the blade is permanent. With a small round file elongate the hole closest to the outer edge so that the fence can pivot about a mm forward and back.
2) Use a good square to attach the fence as close to 90° as possible.📐
3) Make your cuts to find square.
4) When you're ready to permanently secure the fence, loosen the outer screw slightly to move the fence forward or backward as required, then tighten it down.
6) Install your remaining screws.
Good video, thanks for the 5 cut explanation. I've also seen cross cut sleds with holes drilled in them which makes them even lighter. I'm with you! Light and nimble and accurate is the way to go.
This is great! Love the chamfer on the bottom of the fence. Heard about that somewhere after I had built my first sled. Not sure how I feel about the fence in the back, but I might try this out. Pretty sure that roller on the miter bar is to go out back so when the front of the sled is heavy, it won't tip off the front of the table. About the blade side... If the sled goes on the right side of the blade, you can't use it with a dado stack. From the left side you could do whatever width dado stack you want.
I used a piece of 1/4 mdf for the base of my sled. All the strength comes from the front and back pieces which I connected with a couple longitudinal bars which make for nice handles. Whole thing is light and sits nice and flat. I like your detail with the chamfer for the sawdust.
Love the simplicity of what you are doing and your explanations are great
1st content of yours I'm seeing - Love the Ab version. I have yet to build one because of the reasons you mentioned wanting a new one. Thanks brother! Looking forward to seeing more of your work. I appreciate your in a small shop and able to manage it all. I'm in similar situation but with 2 car garage and a lot of kids/home things in there.
Totally feel your 95% vs 100% issue. I think this happens in a lot of creative/maker things. I'm a professional software developer for decades, and this happens ALL THE TIME. Just remember, "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good". Great vid Scott.
I was just wanting to come to comment along the same lines as well - and it doesn't seem to matter what area one is creating in. If a person is trying to design tools and workflow for their own home based workshop, of whatever sort, it can really get stymying when it comes to balancing "what will work well most of the time" vs "what will absolutely work all of the time." Working in a home studio, there's always the opportunity to "solve" a "problem" by buying another little gadget. But realistically, it can often be just a reframing of whatever the "problem" is - a lot of the time it can be a small compromise in a workaround that lets things work nicely most of the time. For those rare other occasions, those can just get handled as they come. But mostly good is preferable to always adequate (or seldom perfect).
EDIT: Also, *subscribed*, Scott - I super dig what you're throwing out there!
For sure! Just curious, what are your current tools for software development?
Yes, really huge problem for us in software. Results in vastly over engineered and complicated monstrosities.
@@theyrecousins I actually think my background in framing houses helps me move through that thinking quicker. I was very accustomed to building saw horses in 5 minutes at each new job site but in software I would have to create a UniversalSuperLightUltraConfigurableSawHorse utility library that every single project relies on and and is broken by frequently :D
@@greglloyd2377 Make it work. Then make it better. Eventually it will become great... or you'll change what you need to work on 😉
I made Norm's panel sled about 15 years ago and have used it countless times since. Glad you borrowed from his simple yet effective design. Yours came out great and I hope it lasts you many years too.
I have watched a number of sleds being built and yours makes the best idea for me. Thanks
Fence on the far side in place of the near
Excellent design. Thank you.
Again Nice Job on your video shots. you can tell you spend time on shooting it. This sled is on my list to build for sure! Thanks for taking the time to do your videos
Thanks for explaining the 5-Cut-Method that well!
I was a big fan of the New Yankee Workshop, watched with my grandson every week. Missed or don't remember the panel sled. Thanks for bringing it back to all of us who have been struggling with wide panels and narrow "ultimate sleds" or miter gauges with the miter bar being far too short to set up an accurate cut. I just relied on my table saw fence, but knew there was a better way. This is another jig in my future projects.
Ha - the irony here is that the only jig I always remembered Norm for was his panel cutter! :)
ETA: It was a great show, wasn't it? You always felt like at the end of each episode "Yep - I could make that now!" because everything was so clearly explained and calmly demonstrated. And yet 20 years later I've never managed to build anything Norm did because he was just so brilliant at everything he put together.
nice job, especially on figuring the deviation from the right angle
I love it! Nice job. Thanks for sharing.
Really enjoyed your pleasant presentation, humor and general thinking. Learning while enjoying is the key.
Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing.
Very cool. Nice video. Might have to give this a try! Thanks.
Really great video! I love your sled design.
Great video! Informative and amusing! Tough combo to beat. Keep up the good work!
Well done video Scott!
I like your delivery and dry humor. This is a great video with excellent examples!
Love this video. Many woodworking channels don't analyze the needs versus end results. This video is perfect for all weekend woodworking enthusiasts.
8:45 my last sled i built had a 6mm base, the thin board conforns to the cast iron bed so its always flat. The base is only really there to help thingsxslide and keep the fence perpendicular to the blade.
I'm planning to build my next one using 2mm phenolic sheet as it slides really well and is incredibly stable
Great sled and video Scott! I too have one of those big and heavy sleds, I will be making one like your here very soon! Love your videos and style of presenting your projects. Already looking forward to your next one. Thank you for sharing!
Your instructions are very clear. Learned a few things…using the level as a flat reference when gluing the fence pieces together, and the feeler gauge approach to squaring the fence to the saw blade. I’ve been using those aluminum runners for awhile now. Thanks for the time and effort making this video.
Nicely done.
Great job, well thought out. I will make one for me!
Very well explained and demonstrated!
Informative and entertaining! Bravo!
Loved the video. You have some good ideas, and your presentation is entertaining.
Great work. Thank you.
The sled doesn't reference the fence, it references the miter slots. So the reality is, the method of putting the piece against the fence doesn't actually do anything to make your sled square at all. You can set the base panel at any angle on the bar as long as there is material past the blade to be cut off. It really doesn't matter because once you run the piece through the saw, you have one edge that is parallel with the miter slot. From there its easy to square a fence anywhere you want to on the base. The 5 cut method is actually really brilliant, because you could, in fact square up a fence that is up to 11.25 degrees off.
I was just getting ready to make a table saw sled for squaring larger panels when I randomly came across your design. I have to say I like it because its light,easy to make and very functional for panel squaring, I'll will probably use this design. Thank you for sharing! Oh and the most common reason why most sleds should be on the left side of the blade is because most table saws are right tilting, which means the blade mounts against the arbor on the left and if the sled were on the right of the blade then the cut line will be off if you ever change blades that have a different kerf thickness.
I don't do much wood working anymore and don't even own a table saw any longer, but if I did, this would be the sled I would build and use. Heck I might even buy a new table saw just to build me a sled....not. I do find your videos to be very informative and you use techniques that just make sense and are easy to grasp. I also appreciate your focus on safety. Far to many other You Tubers do not show proper safety techniques...especially when using a table saw. So props for that sir.
Interesting, and well done. Thanks!
Great video. My DIY "workshop" is also small, so a lot of my sawing goes outside, thus my DeWalt portable 10" table saw. Stability on dirt sux, a sled should help. I concur with your philosophy for design and build and cost compromises. Also noting your video backgrounds give clues how to build "space" in small confines for tools and maneuvering. Thanks for your help.
Depending on your general use case, greater reliability totally makes more sense than greater flexibility. Tailoring your workspace to your workflow is simply good practice, regardless of circumstance. I'm a fan of both multi-purpose and specialized tools and use them both in different situations for different purposes.
Nice design, Scott. You'll probably want to add a support to the other side of the blade. It can be stationary and could be locked into the t-slot during use, but without it your cut-offs will want to pinch the blade and you'll also get tear-out as the blade exits. Scott
1. While the 5-cut method is really interesting and brilliant it's unwarranted. Just did it once it works but never used it again. I've been making cross cut sled just using a carpenter's square and never failed me. I just verify by simply flipping the sample piece and see if the cut still aligns.
2. Your take on the "Ultimate" cross cut sled - full of features and heavy - is spot on. My go to sled is now a very simple light one. My previous "ultimate and universal" sled is still there in a remote, less premium spot of my shop, waiting for the rare special-task moment when it would be called upon again.
3. One sided/one-runner sled is also what I prefer. However, if I were you I would have just use 1/2 ply for the base - a lot lighter yet does the job as well. Also, I would stick to the tried and tested back, rather than front, fence. Front fence would require more user effort to balance and secure the piece.
Well said, I agree on all points
Clearly, accuracy isn't a concern for you.
@@saltwaterrook4638 I’ve built beautiful furniture on my sled that was checked/built with a square. The term “accuracy” in woodworking is too often applied to the obscene degree.
@@5280Woodworking I have to agree. Most woodworkers are using a crosscut sled for a cut between 2 and 12 inches long. A variance of 1/500th over 24 inches becomes irrelevant at those shorter lengths, even with compound error, when using wood.
Depends on what your tolerances are for a given project. The 5 cut method takes minimal effort and time. To get a 24 inch crosscut edge that is a perfect reference for a long tenon on tight, gapless breadboard ends is worth the 10 or 15 minutes it usually takes. Better to have it and not need it.
I like your simplified 5 cut method!
Yes it made perfect sense , thank you
Wow! I finally got around to watching this video! I love your take on the "one size fits all" issue! NOTHING needs to do EVERYTHING! That's why you don't frame with a finish nailer or cope with a circular saw. That's why people like us have so many tools!😅 This is a great sled! Thanks for the video and the idea!
We are currently making a video on walnut slabs and could have used a good cross-cut sled. We tried to make a cross-cut sled recently. Did some quick work with scrap wood and CA glue. This is something one should really take some time and design. We would like to attempt it again. your video was inspirational.
Great explanation and naration! Keep up with good work. U deserved a subscription!👍
Seeing the new Yankee workshop made me tear up and remember my dad. He adored that show and had a bunch of their plans and books.
Great video. Think that sled is in my future after winter
¡Qué bueno el sistema de cinco cortes para comprobar la escuadra del trineo!
Desde España, ¡gracias por el vídeo Scott!
Oh, I like the cut of your jig. A most satisfactory testing and correction technique you have there.
Too true about perfection. Heck, even machinists can only really work to within the tolerance of their measuring gauges which will probably not be perfect. I appreciate the tip about feeler gauge to correct the error after the 5 cut method. This is simple and I never thought of it when I built my last sled. Cheers!
You could use a cut off piece, if you dont have feeler gauge.if you need to rotate fence counterclockwise then put closest end between block and fence. secure block, rotate lenghwise cut off piece and adjust fence
Nice design! Thanks.
The point of about optimum solutions being specialized rather than generalized is really key. Every shop is unique. Every workflow is unique. Having a tool that does your most common jobs as efficiently as possible at the expense of jobs you never or rarely do is exactly right.
The summer Scott looks chill af
😂
Try using virgin (white) UHMW Polyethylene runners for your sleds. UHMWPE is: highly abrasion resistant, self-lubricating(used to make plain bearings), has an ultra low coefficient of friction(second only to virgin Teflon) so it slides extremely easy, it does not change size with humidity, it is easy to work with using wood working tools, and it is inexpensive.
Love it !! Super smart design and the 5 way cut to make it sqare is SO !! much easier ti understand and explain to friends. Thank you very much , your french Canuk friend Jay-R .
Great video, very interesting take on a crosscut sled. I like both of Scott's crosscut sled designs. I do want to point out though... I bought the recommended rail and it ended up not fitting in my old Craftsman table saw. No fault of Scott, and the product looks to be of excellent quality, it just won't fit in my table saw track with the wheels still on it (which is partly why you buy this type of rail in the first place.
Also, love the videos Scott, great job!
Hi Scot, I am enjoying your videos.
re; loss of height when using 3/4 plywood base - whiners! Yes, if you are using a saw table with an 8' blade, but cutting with a 10 or 12" blade, depth of cut should not be a problem.
re; Mitre bars for the sled, I have used some plastic drawer glides and have not been worried about swelling or wear and tear needing adjusting. I have an old saw with a troublesome fence that needs measuring at both ends before cutting, each and every time. I do like the small version of a cut sled with the additional ideas.
That's actually excellent
I like the mentality of creating a few smaller, more purpose driven sleds, then one "ultimate all in one" sled. Aside from being more manageable it's also much easier to iterate on them based on how you ACTUALLY use them :)
My thing is...I don't really do much plain everyday crosscutting on my table saw. That's what my miter saw is for. A sled would be used to mount a box joint jig or something like that to.
Drill a bunch of holes with a hole saw in your massive sled and it will be much lighter without loosing much rigidity.
Yes, a lot lighter. Assuming a 1" hole every 2" in the field on the side left of the blade, I estimate you'd remove the weight of about 116 sq in. of that area.
It does make for some serious pinch points though.
But it does nothing to change the form factor or capacity of the sled, and little to change the balance.
02:19 he said he could, but it would be to much work for the later benefits.
@@Kahsimiah that's right 😅🫣
this is so good!
I work with perspex and need to have a repeatable accuracy of 0.01 mm. I manage this on a De Walt table saw with a homemade aluminium sled with an adjustable fence to accommodate the angles I need. That degree of accuracy I have never needed with any timber unless I am using really hard woods like Purple Heart or Ebony.
The sizes I work with are between 19mm down to 7mm square, out of 300x300 stock, so accuracy is essential.
Just found your channel. I’m digging it.
great little sled, I opted for the hdpe sled runners
6:11 sled’s on the left, because (1) of how the arbor sticks out to the right, the kerf will be flush with the sled even if the blade changes; (2) right (dominant) hand closer to the middle of the sled; and (3) long boards don’t hit the fence.
Loved your Brilliant Ad - really funny
Very nice!
I like your style, Scott. I subscribed.
I made the most exact sled ever by using my CNC to cut a rectangle, with a miter gauge slot at 90 degrees to the long side. Inserted the rail, attached a fence against the long side of the sled, and ran the whole thing across the blade. Quick and accurate (if you have a CNC).
PS: there's an alternative, floating around RUclips, to the redundant 5 cut method. Its 3 cuts, uses the same principles as the 5 cut, and there's no math at all. But you still need the feeler gauge.
Finally another vid 🙂. I have to make the sled just always been lazy ☺️
Awesome I made one last year and I love it
Fellow Nerd, I really appreciated your video. Thank you.
i really like the design and thinking of building a new sled too. because i have the same problem with wood runners at the moment. my workshop is "outside" and i the shrink so much in winter that the sled is unusable.
Love your delivery...I even watched the whole Brilliant pitch w/o fast forward. :)
BTW, I I took 12 stabs w/ the 5-cut method (=60 cuts!) on my recently made sled before just giving up and calling it good enough. Actually seems like it's plenty good enough now that I've used it on a project.
I need to redo my cross cut sled, and I do like the idea of specialized sleds. I have thought of using the 3, 4, 5 method for getting square, but I would do it in feet. Actually, if you wanted to use inches, any multiple of that would work, like 6, 8, and 10..... Should be close enough....
I have the same sled as your old one and it is heavy. I reduced the weight by cutting handing into each end of the sled, but its still heavy. I love the idea and the weight reduction. My question for you is you end up with tear out when crosscutting because the piece isn't supported from behind? I debate on this sled but mostly use sled for cross cutting.
It would be nice if you would use a riving knife in your table saw. It is of course your decision what safety measures you use while working and how close you come with your hands to the blade, but as a youtuber you are a role model and encourage others to work the same way.
Personally I never had to remove mine for any cut, especially if the knife is not higher than the blade.
Going to make it! New sub!
That sled design looks to be quite versatile. Not only as a cross cut sled, but could also use it as a tapering and straight cut sled as well.
This is perfect. Due to space, I've had to settle on a jobsite table saw, so not enough support on the left side of the blade (or the infeed, for that matter. I'm going to build this one, but I'm going to make my cut side on the right side of the blade. That'll give me all the lateral support I need. It never occurred to me, to put the sled's fence on the backside! :)
I love this! Time to throw my janky version on the firewood pile.
Love this video
Here are my tips for a cross cut sled. Firstly don't use ¾" anything it's just a waste of time and material and you are sacrificing depth of cut. ½" is more than enough so that is a 33% reduction in weight right off the bat. The fences are going to keep it flat and in use it's on the top of your table saw which is hopefully flat. Second use Valchromat it's a sort of MDF where they stain all the fibres and then bond it together with epoxy rather than formaldehyde glue. It's stronger and more dimensionally stable than regular MDF and at least as good as birch plywood if not better.
My next tip is to use some 30120 aluminium profile for the fence at the cutting side. It's light its dimensionally stable and above all its straight. Further you can use t-nuts and bolts to fasten it to the base of the sled. Drill all but one of the holes too bit and you can slacken them off and adjust the fence easy for square. Just use an old blade to cut into it initially. As it's slotted you can make stops and hold downs. Best decision I made.
Hey now I know what to do with this leftover scrap of aluminum profile that I have. Thanks!
I've been searching for the ideal material for a radial arm saw table that doesn't warp. The original radial arm saw from 1956 uses edge grain fir, and the wood looks brand new somehow after 75 years, and isn't warped at all, and the glue hasn't separated between each of the boards that make up the large flat table. But I wanted to make a table for a few other radial arm saws, and it's not clear how to make it thin, and also not prone to flexing or warping. MDF seems to be totally immune to warping, I have 40 year old pieces of it from 1970's radial arm saws, and it's not visibly warped at all, which is truly impressive. I have a piece of 1" Baltic Birch plywood and it hasn't warped at bit after sitting in high humidity, but it's also extremely nice material and I don't want to waste it on a cutting surface. Thanks, I'll look into Valchromat!
If you orient the grain on a hardwood runner side to side in the slot, seasonal humidity changes will cause it to expand down into the miter slot, minimizing issues.
I prefer to use two layers of 1/4" luan underlayment plywood glued together that gives me just under a 1/2 " thickness. Being plywood, it has minimal seasonal movement, if any. And I can pick up a 2x2 piece of it at my local home center vs ordering and waiting for a metal runner.
You mean , orient the grain horizontally (just to clarify for people).
The ending was excellent 😂
Nice idea. Fit for purpose and not over-engineered. And you're right, trigonometry is not necessary at these small angles. The difference is too small to bother with.
I like yours style!!!... Hello from Ottawa/Gatineau.
Lovely sled, simple and easy to make and a brilliant video to explain it all as well👍
I just use the Incra Miter 5000. It does everything yours does, is easy to adjust and it can cut 100% repeatable angles up to .5 degrees of accuracy. And the T slot adapter can be put on or removed without having to take the whole thing apart.
Somehow, I suspect the cost of his sled is less than $325.
I have the Incra 1000 and it goes to .1degree ( one tenth of 0ne degree ) . That is machine shop accurate. Have they never seen Incra? Absolute repeatable! Basic model = $100. USD
I happily viewed/ listened twice to the entire video and explanations... I think it's a very exact and clever method, and results in precision... though I don't know much, I plan to construct one for myself...
Why in the world would the shop I go to have a tiny sled that wobbles within the slot of the Table Saw? But that's what is available, and I think it's dangerous (plus I had to throw away the worked wood. )
UHMW also makes a good runner choice.
I heard Veritas and said, this guy is Canadian!
Great video. Just bought my first table saw and looking for a basic sled to start. Thanks for the great design
I gotta say, I have never and probably will never do anything related to Woodworking yet I find your Videos extremely interesting.
Never try, it's a trap. Once you cut your first board, you urge to get more wood and tools and you find yourself justifying spending a lot of money for your new hobby. :D
Sliding miter saw: Am I a joke to you?!
You are so cool :D chill vibe this dude has... great video ofcourse, gave me new motivation with your 95% speech to make another CCS! thank you !
The saw table is a stout and flat support surface, so I don't see why 1/2" or even 3/8" for the base wouldn't be sufficient.