Glue Joints Woodworking - Which edge joint to use?
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2024
- Glue Joints Woodworking. In this vidoe Rob Cosman teaches you everthing about edge glue joints. Learn the three types of edge glue joints, when to use which glue joint, the pros and cons of each glue joint, and watch Rob demonstrate how to create each glue joint
00:00 Overview
00:45 Glue Options
05:15 Gluing Strategy
07:39 Clamps and Clamping Techniques
13:15 Continuity of Grain
16:52: Standard Edge Glue Demonstartion
22:43: The Rub Joint
24:20: The Spline Joint
33:31: The Sprung Joint
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Watch this video to learn to make straight and true edges: ruclips.net/video/26Rt54zVY3Q/видео.html
That was the most realistic spline joint video I have seen. Kerf too wide and spline not wide enough and then replacement spline too wide and not long enough. Showing the goofs and how to deal with it is awesome.
We don’t varnish anything. We think is very informative to show the goofs
Thanks Rob. I learn so much from your videos.
Half dowels game changer! Thanks it's great when you learn something!!
I had never seen the halve dowel trick for clamping. I will try it on my next glue up. Thanks for the tips!
Works great
thanks for all your help rob. i really like that you take the time to answer our questions every time you post a video. even when they are redundant and foolish questions like mine seem to be half the time. your class and patience is appreciated
Thanks. You ask, i answer
Thanks for your videos Rob like how its about one topic . And the level of detail you are looking for joining board's together . Great work 👏
Thanks. Keep watching and commenting and i will keep filming
Thanks for the videos Rob. Several years ago I was invited to take the PH classes and you would help my wife and I travel there also. Still wish I could but due to it seems never ending medical issues it still is not possible. So I do the next best thing is watching you. My biggest hope is to make a bench like yours instead of the old military one I have now.
Keep up the good work
This is extremely useful teaching for me. The older I get the more I need to move from trim carpenter to wood worker. Very informative info here and well taught. I here for good 👍
Really enjoyed all the detail you put into this video - thank you!
Glad you liked it
Thanks for your excellent teaching
Always good content, love your channel. Even as a highly experienced carpenter building high end hardwood furniture it’s amazing how much you can still learn….
I’m not sure I’ve ever watched a channel with so much educational values. It’s amazing that someone takes the time and has so much knowledge AND he enjoys the teaching.
Thank you Bill, kind of you to acknowledge that publicly.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I’m 61 and I’m buying some equipment to start building some things,
Thank you for again a very informative and practical tutorial. Rob, its because of people like you and Paul sellers that i am enjoying this fine art, hopefully one day my plane will make the same sound and throw up those beautiful shavings 😀. Thanks again
If you are not there yet, focus on sharpening
Love the half-dowel spacer technique~! Will have to keep that one in mind. Great instructional video (as usual). Thanks, Rob~!
That trick is worth the whole video. Very informative
Dear Rob. Thank you very much for your master classes. This video was very interesting and informative ...
Take care of yourself there.
Thanks for watching
Yes Sir I like the way you teach and do stuff. I bet your work last a long long time. Keep doing what you are doing.
Thanks. Keep watching and we’ll keep filming
Great knowledge passed. Thank you
Thanks for wayching
Awesome video! I learned a lot!
Great to slow down and watch one of your informative you tube videos. I am the very proud owner of a WOODRIVER 5 1/2 THANKS TO YOU. I GOT A Call to help friend out over the weekend it was a couple of cabinet,a door & 75' of trim then a kitchen pantry got thrown in. I didn't bring my 5 1/2 I said SHOOT a lot. Thanks for all the info it has taken my work to a whole new level. Thanks again
music to my ears! Glad for you. Hearing you say "shoot" will only impress your wife!
Great video, thanks. Best thing I ever did to my pipe clamps....made pieces of 1/2" Baltic birch about 2"x6" with a oversized hole for the pipe. Stick down far enough to be a foot and allow you to turn the handle and tall enough that if you turn them over, they support the clamps above the work. Attached to the clamp faces with small screws. Mine are so old they don't have the feet, but this changed them from something hateful to a joy to use.
I have something similair....I just didnt use them on this vidoe. Good idea though
Thanks for doing these. You may already know this, but you can get those pipe clamps with a base so they stand up, the Bessey "H" Pipe Clamp - which also helps for turning the crank, because they are now lifted away from the work surface, so you don't have to make sure they're off the edge of your workbench before you start cranking.
Thanks, great pace and detail.
Your welcome
I'd love to leave a wide board together like that - but a 65-year-old home in Winnipeg where humidity goes from 10 to 70% over the year - nope. But love the rest of the tips! Keep 'em comin'
Thanks for sharing that!
Thanks for watching
Gracias por compartir tu conocimiento! Saludos
Thank you
This video is very informative, great instructions on different methods of glue ups!!! Luther could learn a thing or two!!! 😉
Ate you kidding? Luther taught all this to me! He is a savant!
Actually, based on where Luther is from, his learning has tapped out, filled up, maxed out and atta room. Based on his spelling, I don’t think I have the wherewithal to force any more info into that southern brain. The grits and “balled” peanuts have taken their toll. He done!
Savant, is that a person who can count backward while hoping on one leg with his eyes closed?
I have used many types of clamp aiding schemes for those pesky pipe clamps and have found the use of a clamp pad/stand feature works best. By using a trapezoid shaped wood pad with a hole drilled in middle for pipe and then two small holes drilled on pipe clamps to secure pads with screws and the self standing upright feature with enough clearance left to allow fingers to turn clamps. An additional feature is to add a leather padded face so clamping pressure will distribute pressure and leather pieces can be purchased in most arts and craft stores as leather remnant pack.
HI rob love ur idea of round noggings. saves damaging work piece.
And helps prevent the glue up from bowing
Thanks for the video, especially the rub joint section. Just wanted to give a heads up that some extra colons ended up in the time stamps in the description making them inactive.
before laying the planks on the pipe clam, I sight the end pipes like winding sticks to be sure they are parallel. Also, the end clamps are shimmed up about 1/4" to be sure the planks will not teeter on a middle clamp. My boards usually have some cup, but I take care of that with a belt sander after joining. For bench tops, I laminate "engineered wood" flooring for the top surface. Good enough for a lathe bench top. I wish I had a table saw, but I wouldn't use it very often as most of my shop work is grinding and polishing glass optics for telescopes.
Excellent demonstration. Very helpful. TY. I was wondering if you would use the half dowels with the f clamps also, and if you would alternate the f clamps top/bottom?
I find it interesting, you refrained from using glueup languagem that is how it rolls out for me usually.
Kudos! I love that you show how to center the pressure traveling through the thickness of the stock with shaped cauls. Nobody else mentions this! I rely on centering the screw at the head end of the clamp, though.
I found a good way to avoid having to split dowels and fuss with several pieces: I use ordinary rectangular stock and cut a quick, shallow double bevel on one edge, giving it a ridge that allows the same centering effect. Goes quickly on the jointer, two passes not even changing the fence, just by eyeball. A trifle longer to use hand plane or tilt the tablesaw, but i keep the sticks long and use them that way.
This is also very good technique when clamping a carcase!
Great tip. Thanks for sharing
Perfect timing! I'm making a walnut table 72" x 44" out of 6" or 8" 5/4 boards. I've recently acquired a bunch of 4' Bessy's. I plan on using biscuits for alignment and TB III. Should I do it as one glue-up or in 2 or 3 sections? I've also been acquiring your various tools before I try my hand at dovetailing.
If you use biscuits for alignmnet then you can do more than one section at a time. But be careful, better to do it in a couple of glue-ups if you cannot do them all before the glue starts to skim up....Dont be greedy
Great video! Quick question: I thought the point of a sprung joint was that you would only need one clamp in the middle. Is that true?
Thays one pro, but the big issue is to keep the glue joints at the end very tight, and to do that it allows one clamp to hold it together
@dk builds sprung joints equalize the pressure in the long run, because end grain looses moisture faster than long grain thus shrink more than the middle section. So while and after drying, the ends will *not* in any way shrink enough to produce a micro gap. I love that technique.
@@nicolaspillot5789 yes yes yes thank you you great explainer you
Rob great vid again! I went to your site checking out the planes. Lots labeled for no shipping to the US. Is that a new thing? I don't remember seeing those before. I'm wondering what the first most versatile plane for a beginner is. Basically if you can afford just one, what size should it be and what characteristics? I know I've seen you suggest it in vids before, but I can't seem to recall it. I'm getting so much closer to making some saw dust...lol I'm the perpetual commenter until I get my space worked out. Thanks again!
good content. I have a couple opinions though of the glues. As to the Titebond I vs III. I don't think they are "the same properties" but one is more WP. That is a simplification. There are advantages to type 1. Obviously easier clean up, (yes, the glue is soluble in water, so comes off clothes, brushes can be left in water etc) But it also dries hard, with little creep. Type III DOES creep, considerably! It also dries much more slowly. I use III often, but I use I even more. (and use Hyde glue and Recorcinol also, (A glue that is even better than III for waterproofness) I've used Type I for 40 or more years, and have never had any bond "dissolve or come apart because of failure due to moisture. That said, I wouldn't use it for something that was hanging in a steamy sauna or even a shower area.
also rob, I find that using a small 6 inch f-clamp over the joint at the ends of two boards, helps with getting the ends flat to each other.
Yes but i recommend working hard to clamp flat from the get go so end clamps are not neccessary
@34:33 but now we'll never know how strong that rub joint is! And you're mocking us by having it sit in the background! 😁😁 Thank you for the very informative video.
Yea i forgot to come back to it. Why didnt you remind me?
Hi, Rob! Have you considered doing a video on hand plane types - what's used for what and how? I've been learning to do box joints and had to plane a tiny bit of the fingers sticking out but only have a cheap $10 plane. I've been going through tons of videos here, learned to sharpen chisels and plan on buying a hand plane, but with limited funds I can't really afford 4 types in a single purchase. But which one to choose as a first, to start? I could probably sharpen a plane blade by now, but don't really know much else about the types. Thanks for teaching!
Get a 5 1/2 plane.. woodriver or any other decent brand.. it'll save you lots of headache refurbishing old or fixing cheap planes
Rob I am one of your big admirer. I am watching every video you are producing and order your tools. But how can you use such annoying clamps? Take a look at the Dubuque clamps, which are fun to use. Greetings from Germany. Reiner
I know this is off topic but I have a walnut table top 7x3 and want to fix it to a farmhouse style base. What would be the best way to attach? Do I have to take in account for swelling and use the z clips or can I just screw it to the base? Thank you for your knowledge
What I do with my pipe clamps is added a felt pad to the metal so it doesn't dmg/marr the wood. Also use pvc tubing along glue joints so I don't get any stain from the metal when it squeezes out.
Good tips
Wow ! Ex-plains WHY he does WHAT he does in plain English. Novice to expert can learn from this. Highly recommend
Very interesting topic. Rob, the half dowel clamp suports width needs to be the same as the boards that you are gluing ? Thanks
Nor really but it helps to place them centered on the board
Half dowel idea is great - thanks. Slipping f-clamps drive me crazy, now I know why. I would not have thought about grain direction for planning post glue-up - brilliant.
Why use a sprung joint?
What was the powder based glue you showed?
One reason for using a sprung joint is if you haven't many clamps, you can use even just one clamp in the middle of the glue up and apply enough pressure at the ends of the board by the time the center of the board closes to produce a tight joint. Also it take the headache out of planing two boards perfectly straight but personally I prefer to use extra clamps rather than introduce tension into the joint.
I take it back, look below at Nicolas Pillot's reasoning
quick question about wicking the thin ca glue for tight joints. would i then need to take a few passes with a smoothing plane? have you ever had this affect a finish?
yes you must remove any excess by planing or sanding
After spline in the joint, would you consider tongue and groove joint? It should be pretty simple to do on a table saw.
It would work but thats a lot of extra work that is not needed
Another great video. Does the dowel diameter need to be equal to the wood thickness?
Its better if it is the same or close, you want the force to be centered on the thickness of the wood
i am going to adopt the half dowel clamp supports but i have been simply using a relatively thick single board on each side of the panel to help evenly spread the pressure and protect the work piece. is this not as effective as the dowels?
No its not. The dowels concentrate the clamp pressure in the center of the board thickness helping to prevent the panel from bowing under the clamp pressure
You should check with the epoxy manufacturer they make mix nozzles that eliminate mixing issues, and do precision application.
I have used those and for some unknown reason i like mixing it myself. Stuck in my old ways i guess. But yes those are great
What is with hide ore bon Glue. I Linke this Stufe wery much.
How long did it take for you to trust your fence to be accurate
Rob - your clamps look like you've had them for decades. They probably didn't make the type I like at the time you got the ones you own but the ones with feet are so much easier to use because they aren't rolling all over the place while you're getting them set up.
Yes they are ancient.
Hi Rob. What is your approach regarding woodworkers who say you need to alter the direction of the growth rings, in order to even out the twist across the entire board throughout time?
They are old, very old! Welcome to central heating and air conditioning!
Great video! I’ve read that a lot of luthiers (who don’t swear to hide glue) prefer Titebond I over the other varieties since apparently it is a lot less prone to «creep». I can image that it might matter in say a laminated ply banjo rim where the segments are bent and under pressure. But does it really matter for other uses? I have no idea. I like them both but I have limited experience.
I dod a lot of testing after a project failure and yellow / white wood glue (Titebond I) will fail at 120 degrees. I had one piece of furniture in a sunny widiow that the joints gave way due to the heat
That’s quite shocking actually. And good to know.
Rob, would there be a problem making the spring joint by planning both edges simultaneously? My thought would be that if you aren't planning square the angle would cancel itself and your face would still be straight.
That techniques dosent work quite. As well on a spring joint since you dont have flat edges
Views on hide glue? Thx.
Do you have an opinion on the LN tongue and groove plane ?
Its a very good plane.
Thanks for that Rob. The split dowel pads are a good idea that I've not seen elsewhere. I'm sure you're familiar with joiner's dogs which require the edges to be planed as the reverse of a sprung joint. Seems irrational but they must have been in use for hundreds of years. Whadda ya think?
I dont want to put holes in my workbench top
I think we might be at cross purposes here, Rob. The dogs I have in mind are driven into the end grain straddling the joint line. No damage to workbench top, as far as I'm aware.@@RobCosmanWoodworking
How strong is the rub joint? I'm really curious as this would be super useful
Stronger than the wood.
Hi Rob, for the sprung joint, could you plane the middle of both boards at the same time in a bok match style, that way it won't matter if you plane them out of square, the two boards should still line up flat to one another
Ummm. I would not want to do that on a sprung joint as you have introduced that curve. I dont know if that technique would still work
You can do it that way if you take the time to ensure that the edges are PERFECTLY aligned. If you are off by a hair in alignment you get a bump and the joint is spoiled. I'm sure that if you did spring joints every day then you could learn to do it, but for me, the setup time to align both boards just takes too much time and it is faster to just do one board at a time.
Dry in Canadia. Might be why you don’t get much time with the canned stuff?
Which featherboard did you use?
Did I miss the strength test on the rubbed joint?
Rob, I’ve paused watching to point out that you don’t give details about the powdered glue, for instance, its name, brand, type. Is that urea formaldehyde? I am watching on a small screen I’ll admit, but I just cannot see the particulars of the can label. Thanks!
Ditto.
@@rjpaulsen1, copy that! And, many thanks!
Yes Robert P must have read my earlier replies to this same question. He is spot on
@@RobCosmanWoodworkingcopy, and thanks!
Hi Rob: at 04:30 you refer to a powdered glue (do you mean a casein or urea-formaldehyde glue such as Cascamite/Extramite?) and you then mention the importance of adding the powder to the water and not vice versa. Are you sure you mean that? With Cascamite (which has a similar open time of around 20 minutes) I always add water to the powder and a little first to create a thick cream (just like you would making a cup of soup from a packet). This avoids the formation of lumps and the action is fast, adding a little more water to achieve the treacle consistency necessary within a few seconds. I am in fact making a video right now using Cascamite powdered glue, a glue i have been using since the 1960's for canoe building. I made a video called 'Woodworking glues - Cascamite' ten years ago and demonstrate there adding water to the powder, contrary to what is written on the tin! By adding water the consistency also is easier and quicker to regulate! I didn't actually see you mix the glue in your video but I may have missed it.
I use And was referring to powdered plastic resin glue. I use the Circa 1850 brand. I add the powder to the water, never had success the other way around
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks for not dismissing my comment as a troll this time! You emphatically say in your video never mix the water to the powder and yet don't say why but just dismiss it that you never had success that way, yet your videos are highly explanatory! You may be surprised at just how much easier and quicker it is to mix a thick paste and then thin it with water rather than regulating the correct amount with the powder the other way around. Did your mom ever teach you to make pastry? (Mine wasn't arouind to teach me). The water is added to the flour. If its too thin then you add a little more powder. As guesswork is involved in getting the ratio of water and glue powder right, its almost intuitive to add water to powder. Another myth to make a video about?!!! I feel uncomfortable about linking my videos to another channel (although you have offered to link to my channel) but to demonstrate the ease of mixing go to 1 min 39 on this video: ruclips.net/video/0N7LEv2gvLw/видео.html
@@RobCosmanWoodworkingHow can a glue be described by sellers as powdered 'plastic resin' , particularly in this age of micro analysis and attention to detail?!!! Both 'plastic' and 'resin' are generic terms with countless specific types and different characteristics such as epoxy resin and Altiphatic resin glues. Was the trend started with 'Liquid nails'?!
Could you safely do a plunge -- or I guess a drop --- cut on the table saw, so that your groove doesn't go to the ends?
Also, 34:11 I couldn't locate my soul to get the blade parallel to it ;-))
Yes but hold your wood tightly
I've asked on the last 2 or 3 live streams about the boxes for the dovetail saws and you have said the boxes will be on the website "this/next week". I have yet to see them offered for sale.
We arewaiting for Jake to take pictures of th eboxes so Luther can make the product page. Have patience...they are coming soon. I will stop giving time predictions
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Just say that they'll be ready before they announce the next US president. That should give you plenty of time!
Parallel clamps, self standing on your bench, avoid some bigger deformation in the beam... did you ever consider them for your work on large panels?
I am not a big fan of them, just never saw the need
Thinking that the jaws remain parallel after the screw is applied is delusion, but nothing that can’t be solved by Rob’s recommendation of shaped cauls to center the pressure. Quite true, they stand up very nicely.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'm with you on that Rob. I have several of them, and I find them really heavy and unweildy. I wish I had bought F clamps like yours instead. When I get round it, I'll trade mine in!
I just threw away 4 sets of those clamps because of the inability of them to stand still while trying to set boards. Got some with feet that seem to work much better.
Feet are much better. You can also make boards with slots for them to fit in, thats what I did I just didnt show ut on the video
Hi Rob. Question...? I do a lot of edge glue-ups with primed wood because it's easier for me to get most of my materials primed already, as most of my casework gets painted. My question is does the primer affect the glue bond? I've never had an issue or a call back, but just wanted your thoughts if you would be so kind. Thank you!
If you are jointing the edge before glue up you should be removing the primer from the jointed edge so in that case the glue up is not affected.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks for the advice Rob. Love your videos. Watch them almost every day. Best wishes.
Good video Rob, but @34:57 I don't understand why the hollow was purposely created as opposed to planing it as flat as possible. Can you explain?
Its called a "spring" joint. This method allows you to just use one or two clamps in the middle and ensures you are perfectly tight out on the ends where failures are most likely
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ahh. That makes complete sense. Thanks
Doesn't Epoxy glue work with nearly any material? What about hide glue? Thanks
Watching RUclips, it looks like a fesstool domino is a necessity. 🤪
When planning the edge put the 2 boards together back to back so if you are not square it won’t matter.
Yes you can do that if you cannot plane a board true
What is the advantage in using a sprung joint? Why not just get the 2 edges straight?
th esprung joint ensures that the glue line at th eedges is tight and wont open. You can also get away with jut one clamp in the middle
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I had the same question. Thank you so much for the answer and so quickly, what a blessing it is to have a knowledgeable individual be so helpful to others.
Have about 6 good screw clamps? Stay with a straight edge joint in 99% of your glue ups. This method relied more on using less clamps than any issue with wood movement. on the ends A spring joint can and will fail if not done correctly. Convexing boards can be a pain to perform correctly. I personalty don't use it except on bread board ends. Proper use of glue, clamping pressure and temperature in your shop especially during winter is key!
Forgot to mention parallel clamps. Lots of people are starting to use them for glue ups. Bit pricey though.
Do you think making tongue and groove joints with a hand plane would also be a good way to align long boards? Or is it generally too much work?
I recently got a shooting board and drawer bottom plane. I've had fun using them :)
It would be overkill, but if you're just a hobbyist that only makes a handful of pieces now and again, then why not! If you've got a specific hand plane for the job of course. Getting both tongue and groove accurate over even the length of Rob's boards there isn't trivial with a hand plane if you're just free handing it. If I'm struggling with it at any stage, I often just put the two pieces together in the vice with top faces (what will be top faces when flat and glued) facing out the away (with their bottom faces against one another) and plane them both at the same time. If I'm off square slightly then it'll be offset on either board.
@@ricos1497 Thanks for the reply. There are specialty planes for the tongue and groove joint out there to avoid free handing.
@@christianestrada5362 Yes, that's what I was referring to. If you have one, they're great. However, you do lose a bit of stock width, and I tend to prefer tongue and groove to be loose rather than glued. I don't know why though, probably just what I'm used to seeing on floorboards!
I agree with Rico, way too much work for a panel glue up. Tongue in groove is more appropriate for a floating panel
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you for the advice
Rob, you know, some of those pipe-clamps have feet on them.... ;)
But they are all left feet!!!!
Why no hide glue? It was used exclusively for more years than we can count. Adding Urea extends the working time and I have edge bonded boards for table tops by rubbing the boards together until they grab, self clamping, and no external clamps. I also use Titebond III when the boards are too big to simply rub together. I have never had a glue joint fail in over 40 years.
I have not had success with hide glue so I cant recommend it. I use Titebond III 90% of the time
why dont people say cut the boards at a 45degree angle to glue up, as you would get extra surface area? i assume its because you cant get the pressure right when clamping?
You mentioned pipe and F clamps for panel glue ups, but not parallel clamps. Why?
why would you use a sprung joint over just a flat joint. what are the advantages and disadvantages.
A Sprong joint keeps the edges of the boards tight together and from coming to park as there is more pressure on the ends of the board than the middle. Additionally you can get by with one clamp in the middle with the sprung join instead of having to use for five or more clamps
Called, rub-joints, in England.
Yes
What is the powdered glue in the can? You say that it is a powder, that you use it for large glue-ups, and that you have to add the powder to water, but you never say what it is. I tried zooming in on the can, but I couldn't read the name on the label.
Its powder plastic resin glue, the brand I use is circa 1850, but there are lots of others. Designed for the boat industry
Powdered plastic resin. I use circa 1850 brand, but lots out there
You showed the powder in the can, but never said what kind of glue it is. I thought it was hide glue, but saw on the comments that it wasn't.
Sooo ... what's in the can?
Wow that half a dowel trick is awesome. I don’t think dowels are too bad. I use a piece of scrap the same thickness as the stock with two or three spaced holes in it as a drill guide to get the spacing matched perfectly. Two holes drilled in it, put it in place on your edge, drill one hole, put a dowel in it to hold your guide in position, drill second hole, take out dowel and move guide block. I don’t glue the dowels themselves since they’re just for alignment. On a really short piece I’d use dividers and a center line instead of the guide. On thin stock I use bamboo bbq skewers.
The "dowels are a whole lot of extra work" comment doesn't really match my (limited) experience. I got myself a Dowelmax kit and it makes the process very quick, precise, and fun. I can get two boards ready to glue in about the same amount of time it took you to do the spline, and I'm pretty inexperienced. I hear the JessEm dowel jig is also very highly appreciated, but I haven't tried it or any other dowel jig.
I believe the gorilla glue (polyurethane glue) actually will fill in spaces in a joint where as PVA needs that tight surface to surface contact. Comes in handy repairing old furniture!
The foam that fills gaps does so without strength
@@jimweisgram9185 I don’t know Jim, I repaired the legs on a barrister bookcase which were pretty sloppy and it seemed to do a pretty darn good job, regardless if the foam has strength or not ... those legs are solid !
You are correct.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks Rob ...
If you do glue jobs regularly, make yourself 2 pieces of 2x4 , plane on both sides and parallel. Where you cut half round or triangle notches in, where the pipe clamps can sit in. So if you glue 3 feet boards most of the time, take two pieces of 3 feet long 2x4 and put 4 to 6 notches in them.
i'm not sure if it is my own impatience, but i cant stand pipe clamps just for the fact that they like to roll around. I just use bessey f-clamps as you've mentioned, the cheap ones are no comparison!
I agree
Good GODS that's a burly hot glue gun.
gorilla glue makes you hands go brown for a week too!
Wait, you don't have to have a river of glue squeezed out all over the place?
Nope, just creates a cleanup mess and can mess up your finish. You just need a little squeeze out, not a river of squeeze out
Damn. joint one edge , run other edge through table saw, with a good blade, glue up with Bessy clamps , Done.
Unless you are doing fine furniture making and want perfection!
I don’t understand this new format for RUclips videos. Why did they have to change it up on us. 😩😩😩. I will prevail 😉
I'll save you some time as far as this video goes: Go with what you can afford. I'm tired of people with sponsors, free equipment for using their name, several thousand dollar shops and laser guided everything trying to persuade me into doing what they think I should do. Otherwise, according to them, my work is total crap and I'm a loser that needs to get a job flipping burgers because I suck at what I do.
Do what you want, you'll get better.
Learn from your mistakes.
If it feels good, do it.
So which category do I fall into? Because I didn’t see one describing how you’re sick of people sharing their experience.