The author does like to ruclips.net/user/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don't have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won't be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
First off, both of you do such a great job explaining your process and the potentially alternative procedures. Second your channel is probably my favorite due to the visual aspect you guys add also. Keep up the amazing content and work!
I am doing this very build-up now; you make great suggestions. !My wood looks exactly as your table top build-up; I'm putting "bread board" ends b-4 seeing this - now see added benifit for such. Thanks
I've been working wood for many years and still learn from you guys. Please keep it up! I just started building your Longview dining table and am super excited about it. I'll incorporate c-channel to ensure it remains flat.
Hey Jason, appreciate the kind words and the support. Best of luck with the build. As for the C-channel. It definitely won't hurt. But it might not be necessary. I would say, see how your panel is shaping up, and if it seems like it is needed...then go for it. Otherwise you may be able to skip it.
Hello I love the content you present and knowledge that you share. have one question: Instead of C-chanel can I use piece of wood that I could put in the groove on the same location where there is a C-chanel. The grains of this inserted piece of wood would be perpendicular to the grains of the boards. This was the advice that I got from local more experienced collague. He also said that I should use these reinforcements on every 40 to 50cm and that I should use wood glue for securing it not bolts. He also mentioned that this will help with reducing wood movement?
You guys cause me a lot of frustration!! Your videos have so much really good information, I have to watch them several times. "THANKS, GUYS" Keep up the good work.
Great video, as usual. It’s relieving to know that even you guys (because your furniture looks flawless) have problems with imperfect boards after you’ve taken every measure.
This is a very under watched, underappreciated video, thank you guys for putting the time and effort into this. Analytics may not show the "helpfulness" of a video but if they did, this video would score a 19/10, would definitely recommend.
This is one of the best videos for new woodworkers on RUclips, period. Some much practical, real world information in this. The visuals are fantastic too.
Your videos are terrific because of 1) excellent production values--filming/editing, clarity of writing, animated grafix, B) very nice design sense on your furniture (and I'm generally not a fan of "mid-century", but you guys show its best qualities), and three) your engaging, dead-pan, very clear narration. I've been enjoying your stuff for a while now, and send my thanks to you and your team!
Very nice, many times you watch furniture build videos and the milling looks like an afterthought. When you finally try to do it yourself, all that stuff from this video comes to get you, it's far from a trivial matter and can be really time consuming and hard to get right.
@5:30 thank you. Everyone talks about the endgrain wave, but if I have a preference for which face shows for the look I'm going for, I too will ignore this "rule" and have never had bad cupping or anything as a result.
nice tips! as a woodworker myself, this video is like listing a very good check-up list! and also, almost, like a curse. if um don't check one of the items... something will twist. thank you for the hard work! big fan.
Great video! I have a question about the clamps. You have those Jorgensen clamps, are they any good? They are like half the price compared to the Bessey clamps. thanks
I feel like a weirdo saying this because I love the woodworking you guys teach me, it help a ton! I somehow found the audio change between the shots a little hard to get used to.
Nice video. How about for a beginner that doesn't have all this expensive equipment and wants to get flat boards. More to the point what is the best way to fill in those hairline gaps on the table top - saw dust and glue? Thanks
Great content and good job of explaining, only problem is that not everyone has all the equipment that you have available but we still have the same problems.
Great video. One thing I’ve long struggled with is how to deal with very long boards on the jointer, let’s say the rails of a bed that have a significant bow to them. Would you somehow set up additional in feet or outfield? How do you handle this? Love your videos!
Hey Simon. I have never set up additional in/out feed. Honestly I think it would end up doing more harm than good. The chances of matching the angle would be really low. Esepcailly with how "un-flat/even" most floors are. If anything, we've had two people help support the piece while jointing. All that said. In my experience, the longer the board, the less important perfect flatness becomes. On the bed I just build, my long rails definitely had a slight bow to them. But it's unnoticeable in the finished piece, once the slats are inserted, because they kind of hold the panels parellel to one another. Very similar to the "Usage" idea at the end of this video
is there a standard depth for the in/out method to take off? i dont see anyone doing anything like putting pencil on the edge to make sure all of the edge has the new angle. I know the edge, at this point, should be pretty straight but the idea is to potentially put an angle on it that it doesnt already have. so is that a consideration that you need?
Another version of the in/out or up/down method: if using a hand plane, gang up every adjoining edge of each joint and plane them flat together. For example if you had three boards A, B, and C with edges |1 2||3 4||5 6|, you'd take boards A and B and put them together with edges 2 and 3 facing up in the vise and plane them flat, then flip board B end over end, place board C beside it, and plane edges 4 and 5 together the same way. No matter how out of square your planing ends up, as long as those combined surfaces are coplanar, those edges will be complimentary and the panel will be perfectly flat.
A query -- what do you use on cauls to prevent them from attaching to the excess glue from glue-ups? I've basically taken some saran wrap and used spray glue to attach it to the 2x4s, semi-permanently (it may come free over time as the adhesive ages, but it does a decent job of making it stick to the wood)... But I'm open to other ideas.
Painters tape on the face that extends up the edges (doesn't have to be all the way, just like 1/4" or whatever). If you're more than a hobbyist I would get some relatively thin slats of aluminum.
In addition to using metal channel on the bottom - would not wood battens also be used? They could be inset or not and then glued and screwed - right? Have you tried that method?
After following this to the T to make my first panel, the only other tip I would add is this: Do one step at a time for all your boards before moving to the next step. I ran into an issue after the glue up was done because all of my panels were slightly different thicknesses (Only by about a 32nd of an inch or so) because I did each plank of wood from start to finish before moving onto the next piece. I wish I would’ve done all of the planing at each thickness for each piece before moving onto a thinner plane as I planed it to my final thickness. Hopefully that made sense.
With all those dominos/dowels/biscuits it can be hard to work with the panel without cutting into and exposing one of them. My last build ended up 2" smaller because I placed a domino in the wrong spot. ☹️
Completely un woodworking related.... Was that a Super 73 at the 08:36 mark?? My bro in law has one. He's added THREE batteries to it!!! Those bikes are so cool guys!! Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!
And still there's a last thing you can do if you have some boards that aren't fully flat (coplanar) with each other: take out the orbital sander or belt sander, slap some 60-grit sandpaper and sand the hell out of it. It will be flat in no time (remember to sand with higher grit sandpaper after that). 😁
I think we should all start using dowmiscuitos in our videos, blogs and everyday conversations. Who knows we may make it into the Oxford English Dictionary. Hey makerspace made it so why not dowmiscuitos?!?
The author does like to ruclips.net/user/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don't have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won't be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Not true. These techniques can be accomplished with a modest set of tools
loving the 3d animations to help explain these concepts. really helpful video!
THANK you for the in/out jointer tip. I recently butchered a panel glue up because my jointer was slightly off.
Local panel flatteners are furious about these seven simple tricks! (Do this every day)
lmao
wow one of my best videso to watch for today..... thanks for sharing,.,,.,
Every time I watch or rewatch any of your videos, I end up picking up something new. Thanks for putting out such quality content!
Outstanding way to present to teach an old guy some new tricks. LOL Thanks
Excellent video and editing. Thank you for your efforts. I'm watching this for the second time
First off, both of you do such a great job explaining your process and the potentially alternative procedures. Second your channel is probably my favorite due to the visual aspect you guys add also. Keep up the amazing content and work!
I am doing this very build-up now; you make great suggestions. !My wood looks exactly as your table top build-up; I'm putting "bread board" ends b-4 seeing this - now see added benifit for such. Thanks
I've been working wood for many years and still learn from you guys. Please keep it up!
I just started building your Longview dining table and am super excited about it. I'll incorporate c-channel to ensure it remains flat.
Hey Jason, appreciate the kind words and the support. Best of luck with the build. As for the C-channel. It definitely won't hurt. But it might not be necessary. I would say, see how your panel is shaping up, and if it seems like it is needed...then go for it. Otherwise you may be able to skip it.
Hello I love the content you present and knowledge that you share. have one question: Instead of C-chanel can I use piece of wood that I could put in the groove on the same location where there is a C-chanel. The grains of this inserted piece of wood would be perpendicular to the grains of the boards. This was the advice that I got from local more experienced collague. He also said that I should use these reinforcements on every 40 to 50cm and that I should use wood glue for securing it not bolts. He also mentioned that this will help with reducing wood movement?
You guys cause me a lot of frustration!! Your videos have so much really good information, I have to watch them several times. "THANKS, GUYS" Keep up the good work.
5:36 Next to great info and builds, this type of subtle humor is what makes this channel so great!
Keep using the graphic design program it’s awesome I love it I am actually addicted to it 👀👍🏼
Great video, as usual. It’s relieving to know that even you guys (because your furniture looks flawless) have problems with imperfect boards after you’ve taken every measure.
This is a very under watched, underappreciated video, thank you guys for putting the time and effort into this. Analytics may not show the "helpfulness" of a video but if they did, this video would score a 19/10, would definitely recommend.
This is one of the best videos for new woodworkers on RUclips, period. Some much practical, real world information in this. The visuals are fantastic too.
No because most new woodworkers wouldn't have the kind of equipment that these guys have.
Your videos are terrific because of 1) excellent production values--filming/editing, clarity of writing, animated grafix, B) very nice design sense on your furniture (and I'm generally not a fan of "mid-century", but you guys show its best qualities), and three) your engaging, dead-pan, very clear narration. I've been enjoying your stuff for a while now, and send my thanks to you and your team!
your video quality is off the charts, not to mention creating new words, mind blown!
Thanks guys, these look super helpful.
Very nice, many times you watch furniture build videos and the milling looks like an afterthought. When you finally try to do it yourself, all that stuff from this video comes to get you, it's far from a trivial matter and can be really time consuming and hard to get right.
@5:30 thank you. Everyone talks about the endgrain wave, but if I have a preference for which face shows for the look I'm going for, I too will ignore this "rule" and have never had bad cupping or anything as a result.
thank you
Very well done explanation.
Under picking lumber: I would offer that ensuring a relatively low moisture content is great. Boards like to do a lot of moving as they dry.
nice tips!
as a woodworker myself, this video is like listing a very good check-up list!
and also, almost, like a curse. if um don't check one of the items... something will twist.
thank you for the hard work! big fan.
Shoe game on point. Good channel 👍🏻 appreciate you guys
Really liked the presentation in this video. Nice vibe going with the 2 of you and a good chuckle at 8:45 😊
Excellent- thanks guys.
Great Job guys!
Thanks so much. All of your videos are great, but I particularly appreciated this one.
Dowmiscuitos is hands down my new favorite word!
thanks, will help me a lot
well done guys, once again
Thanks for all the tips for getting all my banana boards to look nice, before I can get the Rocklefestlakita Dowmiscuito jointer into the shop!
Great information
What are your thoughts on intentionally setting the table saw blade to 1 degree for the up down method ?
Great video! I have a question about the clamps. You have those Jorgensen clamps, are they any good? They are like half the price compared to the Bessey clamps. thanks
Great info. Thank you
WOW, your content is AMAZING!
Ohhh ! Got it domiscuitos !!
Great video as always! You two are truly a great team, your approach and logic is exceptional. Thank you
Thanks! This is a very helpful recap of the key aspects.
I feel like a weirdo saying this because I love the woodworking you guys teach me, it help a ton! I somehow found the audio change between the shots a little hard to get used to.
Great video guys! Loving the tips. Quick question- does plywood cup or bow like solid wood?
Great tips guys! Also, THANK YOU for bringing back the tape ball 😁
Nice video. How about for a beginner that doesn't have all this expensive equipment and wants to get flat boards. More to the point what is the best way to fill in those hairline gaps on the table top - saw dust and glue? Thanks
Great video, you presented several very good tips! Thank you for posting!
More high quality content- keep up intermediate level please. Thanks for all the input/ time you invest.
Missed you guys!
Great animations!
Great content and good job of explaining, only problem is that not everyone has all the equipment that you have available but we still have the same problems.
Yes I agree - gotta really on the supplier doing it for you.
Great video - high quality content! " Loving the 3d animations to help explain these concepts ".
Thank you so much!
10:30 You just give me the idea of using those rockler clamp to keep it coplaner at the edges.. Easier than setting up 6 clamp!
Great video. One thing I’ve long struggled with is how to deal with very long boards on the jointer, let’s say the rails of a bed that have a significant bow to them. Would you somehow set up additional in feet or outfield? How do you handle this? Love your videos!
Hey Simon. I have never set up additional in/out feed. Honestly I think it would end up doing more harm than good. The chances of matching the angle would be really low. Esepcailly with how "un-flat/even" most floors are.
If anything, we've had two people help support the piece while jointing. All that said. In my experience, the longer the board, the less important perfect flatness becomes.
On the bed I just build, my long rails definitely had a slight bow to them. But it's unnoticeable in the finished piece, once the slats are inserted, because they kind of hold the panels parellel to one another. Very similar to the "Usage" idea at the end of this video
@@Foureyes.Furniture this is so useful. I've always assumed everything just had to be flat until now. Thanks for widening my horizons on this one!
is there a standard depth for the in/out method to take off? i dont see anyone doing anything like putting pencil on the edge to make sure all of the edge has the new angle. I know the edge, at this point, should be pretty straight but the idea is to potentially put an angle on it that it doesnt already have. so is that a consideration that you need?
Great video, thanks!
great video!! I love the production style
Good video! Greetings from Ukraine!
Another version of the in/out or up/down method: if using a hand plane, gang up every adjoining edge of each joint and plane them flat together. For example if you had three boards A, B, and C with edges |1 2||3 4||5 6|, you'd take boards A and B and put them together with edges 2 and 3 facing up in the vise and plane them flat, then flip board B end over end, place board C beside it, and plane edges 4 and 5 together the same way. No matter how out of square your planing ends up, as long as those combined surfaces are coplanar, those edges will be complimentary and the panel will be perfectly flat.
another excellent video....i learned a lot
Goodness how much work is animating this? Good job guys. You earned a new subscriber.
A query -- what do you use on cauls to prevent them from attaching to the excess glue from glue-ups? I've basically taken some saran wrap and used spray glue to attach it to the 2x4s, semi-permanently (it may come free over time as the adhesive ages, but it does a decent job of making it stick to the wood)...
But I'm open to other ideas.
Painters tape on the face that extends up the edges (doesn't have to be all the way, just like 1/4" or whatever). If you're more than a hobbyist I would get some relatively thin slats of aluminum.
How do you pick for grain when it is rough lumber at the yard? For example for walnut I cannot see the grain until plane. Thanks
Just randomly scrolling through the Roku channels and stumbled onto one of your old videos. FYI Roku channel 458 the Makers Channel
In addition to using metal channel on the bottom - would not wood battens also be used?
They could be inset or not and then glued and screwed - right?
Have you tried that method?
Thanks for the info!
Nice
"You're not out of the woods yet" - that was funny
Great video and tips. Mahalo for sharing! : )
I take o-fence to your suggesting that my jointer might be off. Shaun will like that joke.
Juste merci 🙏
Is it a bad idea to use tongue and groove boards to make a larger panel?
Solid informative video 👍🏽
Gosh I needed this.
....buen vídeo......👌👌👌
i JUST glued up a panel for a coffee table! I knew I should've waited a little longer😂
I call it the OI method because it saves me from yelling OI VEY from bowed glue ups 😂
All in on dowelmiscuitoes
I only have a 6 inch bench top jointer. Am I just out of luck?
Hold up! What's on the engine stand and do we get a video for that??
We should all adopt the term Dowmbiscuitos lol
Yo that's a VR6 24V in the back, is that for the Caddy? That would be sick.
ok I lost it at "dowmiscuitos" 🤣
Very nice animations.
After following this to the T to make my first panel, the only other tip I would add is this: Do one step at a time for all your boards before moving to the next step. I ran into an issue after the glue up was done because all of my panels were slightly different thicknesses (Only by about a 32nd of an inch or so) because I did each plank of wood from start to finish before moving onto the next piece. I wish I would’ve done all of the planing at each thickness for each piece before moving onto a thinner plane as I planed it to my final thickness. Hopefully that made sense.
Love me some woodworking, but hold up; What's on the engine stand?!
your jointer moves down when you press on it
Dowmiscuitos Should be an industry-wide term.
With all those dominos/dowels/biscuits it can be hard to work with the panel without cutting into and exposing one of them.
My last build ended up 2" smaller because I placed a domino in the wrong spot. ☹️
I think mean "floating tenons" 😁
Is that blue ball the conche’s cousin from lord of the flies ?
Watching it in 1,5x speed makes it normal speed 😆
If you had woodworking courses with more intensive 3d animations like these I would definitely be one of the first to enroll.
10:20 u said doodoo haha
I need me a Jordan push-stick
dowels dominoes and biscuits.... needs background music from Gypsies, Tramps and Thieves song...
Completely un woodworking related.... Was that a Super 73 at the 08:36 mark?? My bro in law has one. He's added THREE batteries to it!!! Those bikes are so cool guys!! Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!
And still there's a last thing you can do if you have some boards that aren't fully flat (coplanar) with each other: take out the orbital sander or belt sander, slap some 60-grit sandpaper and sand the hell out of it. It will be flat in no time (remember to sand with higher grit sandpaper after that). 😁
Yeah right. Just gotta make sure you don't accidentally sand the edges on an angle so it creates a bevel!?
Yes
I think we should all start using dowmiscuitos in our videos, blogs and everyday conversations. Who knows we may make it into the Oxford English Dictionary. Hey makerspace made it so why not dowmiscuitos?!?