Great and helpful video. Thank you. Also. If you have paintable trim, only remove the painters tape covering it and leave the painter’s tape covering the brick until painted.
Amazing, and just what I need to know at this very moment! Allowed me to caulk the brick molding around a new storm door without creating a horrid mess of caulk to clean off the brick. Thanks for sharing your technique!
DANG! I watched this video AFTER caulking around the area that the trim meets the brick. What video was I looking for? "How to removed excess caulk from brick." On the plus side, it doesn't look any worse than before I pulled out the old, dried-up, failing caulk out.
Thank you so much! The house we just bought was terribly caulked on the front of the house between the brick and the wood around the front door. The person who did the caulking just blobbed it on and made no effort to smooth it in the crack(s). I do really well inside but I’ve never done brick. I was worried to redo the job properly without making my fingers bleed for days!
Nice job! Very clean. Sure it takes time to tape. But it takes a potentially longer time cleaning up the mess of a poorly done job to make it right. When one takes pride in what they do, it will show.
I'm going to try this on my baseboard trim that meets a brick accent in my basement. I'm nervous to do it, but I think it will look better than no chalk so I don't have such noticeable gaps.
The best way for a homeowner to do this in modern times is to use as much Quad Max as necessary, go slow, and not tool it. Tooling the sealant in this scenario with such ragged surfaces doesn't really make it look any cleaner, it just makes it smaller, and it'll fail sooner. Just put a thick bead of Quad Max down and move on.
Was the guy following you smoothing it with his finger using a screwdriver to push caulk into the grout gaps? Just wondering what that technique was. Great tips here!
Yeah. The screw driver helps get in the mortar joints when needed. If you spray the caulk with soapy water from a spray bottle then smooth with your finger, your finger will glide right down the joint and make everything smooth.
Thank you, I was supposed to do this to my door with my uncle but he passed away so I never got to caulk the brick that was separated from the door. This will help me.
I always prefer caulking with painters tape to give a clean line. I like how you pushed the tape into the mortar to avoid seeping. I have tan brick with a white door & trim. I repainted the trim & door sill and plan to recaulk, although it appears to have a good seal yet. The door sill was painted blue from a previous owner. The brick all around the door has old paint and caulk past my new paint line. Do you ever caulk to match the brick instead of the painted trim? I can't imagine getting the old paint & caulk off the brick but don't want the white to go too far out on the brick.
What caulk did you use? I want to redo mine. 5 year old house it’s already separated and letting moisture and dust inside. Need to do garage and windows.
I would caulk the bottom. However it’s up to you. I know the theory of if you caulk the bottom it will trap water. However if you have brick the weep holes in the bottom act as drainage anyway. Also, the bottom of a window sill gets a lot of water in a driving rain and water will get in.
It states on the tube and the Quad web site that you should never tool this with your finger. You should hold it a angle so that it pushes it in the crack as you apply the caulking.
Good luck doing that between an aluminum clad window/door and brick. I noticed no reduction in the quality of the finished product after tooling. They probably say this because quad is really sticky. To tool through the stickiness you have to keep everything lubricated with mineral spirits. Then your finger just glides over the surface of the caulk no problem. However, this is just my experience with the product and you are free to do what you think is best.
@@HowtoHacks I believe to main reason is to prevent the caulking from becoming to thin. If it is to thin the sun will deteriorate it and it will no longer preform correctly.
This is possible. However, you should inspect caulking periodically anyway and add more to any voids. For the record, the doors and windows I did for this video have no cracks or voids thus far.
I would install a backer rod then caulk over that. Backer rods are foam rods and they come in various sizes. Expanding spray foam might make too much of a mess as it tends to expand too much in my experience.
That’s a slot to accept mulling strips. Mulling strips are a way to hold windows and doors together to create one big unit. www.google.com/search?q=mulling+strips&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
@@HowtoHacks Good to know. I thought your technique was excellent and that there couldn't be a gap after such a good application. Thanks for the quick reply and great video!
This is very helpful. Unfortunately, when my house was built, the builders didn't use tape. How do you suggest removing the caulk that's all over the bricks? For what it worth, the caulk is 15 years old and is falling apart.
@@MollyThePitifulPit I use a utility knife to cut the caulk, needle-nose pliers to pull out what can be grabbed, and a flat screw driver to scrape any remaining.
@@HowtoHacks Great. Thank you so much. I'm really dreading having to pay someone close to $1000 to have it removed. Going to need all the patience in the world to do it myself, but I think I can tackle it. Thanks again.
@@MollyThePitifulPit I know how you feel. When I made this video I was also removing some old caulk from old windows and doors. Each one took about 45 to 90 minutes depending on the size and how well it was caulked. Patience is definitely key.
what's the best way in bricks? painters tape on both sides? My first chore is getting 20 years of caulk off the brick exterior window seam. it's so bad.... i had to make it worse just so the most recent string of thundestorms didn't put more water in there, now I not only have to figure out a way to get 20 years of caulk off , i have my own recent mess to clean off of there. I needed to take a deep breath and put the tools away, google how to do it right , and then i'll get to taking that caulk off the bring. Was I seening things right that when i tried to peel a bit of caulk off that some of the brick/mortar was coming off with the caulk??? holy crap i hope i was seeing things. Will Citristrip help or mineral spirits to soften it, or should i use a heat gun or something?
To remove the old caulk I used a utility knife and cut along the window at a slight angle with the tip of the blade touching the brick. I then took a flat screw driver and scrapped up and down where the caulk was attached to the brick and it worked ok. If a little bit of brick dust and mortar come off it’s no big deal. Also more mortar cane be added before you caulk. I can make a video about this if that would help?
@@HowtoHacks yea, a video would be great...it's one of the hardest things to figure out how to clean up (remove) before re-caulking and thanks a ton SUBSCRIBED !!
Below is what I used. It’s called OSI Quad and can be color matched to any window. images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/d9/d9bcad11-382c-4f0b-b286-5bbbe6f2a103.pdf
It depends on how big of a bead you want. Cut the tip back so the opening is about the same size as the gap you are trying to fill. For small cracks I cut a small hole that’s about the same size as the crack.
I love this method and used it. But now I just watched a video from OSI Quad and they say you shouldn’t tool - use your finger to smooth - their caulk/sealant. Now I’m confused again. Does smoothing with your finger degrade the quality of the product? I can’t see any other way to do it unless you are a smooth master with the caulking gun, which I am not.
The only reason I can see them saying not to tool is because they don’t want any liability. Meaning they don’t want to tell people to use their fingers and get sued by someone for some weird reason. From my experience, tooling the caulk does nothing to degrade the caulk. I don’t even remotely see how it could.
@@HowtoHacks It’s weird, I know. This is what I saw. www.ositough.com/en/training/protect-against-sealant-failure.html But even what they show as proper application doesn’t look very good to me without tooling.
You really don't want to get elastomeric caulk on your skin. It's nasty shit and won't come off with out mineral spirits. Osi shouldn't be tooled. Lay a clean bead and walk away.
Below is what I used. It’s called OSI Quad and can be color matched to any window. This caulk isn’t classified as polyurethane. images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/d9/d9bcad11-382c-4f0b-b286-5bbbe6f2a103.pdf
in the video at the end on the close-up shot, it still looked like there was a seam that was void of caulk @ 5:05 a straight thin line of empty. im sure it was just the video but can you explain that? also, you didn't say how long you waited for the caulk to dry before removing tape....thanks for this awesome video!!!! great idea guys!!!
What you are seeing is the slot around the perimeter that is there to accept a mullion strip. A mullion strip is how multiple windows or doors can be joined together to make one larger unit. So you don’t want to caulk that. Watch the part of the video where I am applying the tape again and you will see the slot right at the edge of the door. I pulled the tape immediately after i was done smoothing the caulk out. Don’t wait for the caulk to dry at all.
That’s for mullion strips. Look for previous comments about this under the video. A mullion strip is a way to connect aluminum clad windows and or doors together.
I was thinking of doing this but at the same time i want to learn the real way that people that caulk all day use. looks like a piece of wood and soapy water
Hello Friend! I live in Russia and do this business on a professional basis, I polish wooden houses, paint them as an artist and make a canapatka and sealing)))or exterior caulking etc. I want to move to another shit I am looking for a political shelter? I can find myself and how much I can earn !! Thank you very much for your answer!!!
brick should never have caulk on it, my brick is ruined because a window company hired outside help that put white silicone caulking and did a terrible job and now its in big globs all over my window frames. I have heavily textured older brick, and no amount of wire wheel scraping or solvent is getting it off. they never used tape, needless to say, my house looks like crap now.
try & use paint to comoflouge it I went to sherwin williams & got 3 quarts of paint to match brick coloring and took three bricks tell them you're trying to hide smeared caulk use art brushes I did mine several years ago
You have to wipe as much excess caulk off as possible where the edge of the tape is. If it’s too deep there then the caulk will get stringy when you pull the tape up.
@@HowtoHacks yup that was it. I have to do 20 windows.....after doing 4 windows I got a system down. I have gaps to backfill and then I have butt joints. Both require a different approach on laying the tape. But i basically tape the window and brick off, I'll do the top of window, pull tape off. Run down the right side, pull tape off. After I got my methodical approach I was smooth sailing. Getting the window cleaned and prepped takes awhile
That’s what it says. Do it that way if it worries you. However, around brick that’s very difficult. From what I have observed it doesn’t affect the performance of the caulk. I did all the windows and doors in my house this way (and other small jobs). I have checked them every year in the spring and fall. No cracking or shrinking in the joint. I feel like they say this because Quad caulking is very sticky. However if you spay on soapy water before tooling your finger just glides right over with no issues.
If you read the back of quad caulking, it will tell you to leave a three eights bead, just takes practice to get it right. Those thin beads will crack overtime. Guaranteed.
No pro will really spend that time taping. Lay thick beads and spray with a lot of soapy water then drag a 3/4" flat stick down. It leaves a perfect flat finish.
@@bedhead1903 I'm guessing you've never done that work yourself. NO PRO DOES IT. Those techniques are for amateurs, it is the same as free hand paint brushing. Amateurs tape pros free hand. Pro go for speed.
Can someone explain what the comment means. Sorry I have never done this before. I have quite a big project. Although this is by far the safest option, I am guessing it would be really time consuming. Is there any other ways?
I think you know this is not how caulking is done. Takes way too long, wastes tape and caulking, and does not give a good result. When you rip the tape off, it can rip the fresh caulking edge with it. Small tubes like this with small nozzles will not do a professional job. You need a large sausage gun with large nozzles. No tape. Those small guns can do bathroom caulking, that is what I use, but for large exterior beads like the bridge between window and brick, you need at east a 3/4 to 1 inch bead. You can't do it with those tubes or guns like the builders do it. I have done caulking repair for 35 years with those tubes, but it is not really a professional result and not how you would caulk a new door or window. This video shows how it is done professionally. ruclips.net/video/By90PdmsODo/видео.html
I have answered this so many times in the comments. If you don’t want to tool it, then don’t! That’s what it says. Do it that way if it worries you. However, around brick that’s very difficult. From what I have observed it doesn’t affect the performance of the caulk. I did all the windows and doors in my house this way (and other small jobs). I have checked them every year in the spring and fall. No cracking or shrinking in the joint. I feel like they say this because Quad caulking is very sticky. However if you spay on soapy water before tooling your finger just glides right over with no issues.
Another Caulking disaster video All that taping is hilarious. If anyone ever taped before caulking a simple thing like a doorframe or anything else They would probably be Fired or at least never caulk again. When he pulls that tape he breaks the seal all the way down I’d run and knife that door in way less time than this guy takes to tape
Not against brick with OSI quad caulk. That stuff can’t be wiped off of brick. That’s the point of the tape. Anything else I don’t use tape and do what you just described. Also, I did this in 2019 and the caulk looks brand new, no cracking and the seal is good. I taped and caulked one of these doors in like 15 minutes. Not that much of a time commitment…
Thanks man!!!!!! Doing a half column on a brick wall and it looks fantastic!!
You’re welcome.
@@HowtoHacks
What type of caulking do you recommend using for caulking around windows surrounded by brick?
@@jalapenonewsnetwork8537 OSI quad
@@HowtoHacks
Thanks for the super fast reply!
I made a mess of this everywhere. Wish I saw this video earlier. Such a simple way to save time; excellent hack!
I made a mess of this too. I was looking up how to clean this off brick and this video comes up lol
Same lol
If you're not careful with your caulk, sometimes you'll leave a mess.
Life saver!!!! That's why its important to listen and pay attention because when I seen the blue around the window I was like "wtf is that?" ...
Glad you found it helpful.
Im such a child. I couldnt stop laughing.
Great and helpful video. Thank you.
Also. If you have paintable trim, only remove the painters tape covering it and leave the painter’s tape covering the brick until painted.
Nice!! I have to replace old caulk around several windows around my house this weekend, will definitely give this a try!! Thank you sir
You’re welcome and good luck
How's it holding up
Amazing, and just what I need to know at this very moment! Allowed me to caulk the brick molding around a new storm door without creating a horrid mess of caulk to clean off the brick. Thanks for sharing your technique!
You’re welcome
DANG! I watched this video AFTER caulking around the area that the trim meets the brick. What video was I looking for? "How to removed excess caulk from brick." On the plus side, it doesn't look any worse than before I pulled out the old, dried-up, failing caulk out.
Thank you so much! The house we just bought was terribly caulked on the front of the house between the brick and the wood around the front door. The person who did the caulking just blobbed it on and made no effort to smooth it in the crack(s). I do really well inside but I’ve never done brick. I was worried to redo the job properly without making my fingers bleed for days!
Nice job! Very clean. Sure it takes time to tape. But it takes a potentially longer time cleaning up the mess of a poorly done job to make it right. When one takes pride in what they do, it will show.
Frog tape works excellent as well👍
best caulking job I've ever seen
That's amazing! Wish I found this video sooner, but at least now I know how to do this the right way in the future. Thank you!
I highly recommend using stucco tape it bonds better to the brick..tapeing off is a must for a pro finish.
green tape is for masonry. Blue is painters tape. Pros Never tape.
pros never uses tape, its just not needed and takes too much time, u dont wanna make half a days worth of money in a full day :)
@@mikkelraakjaer my “pro” didn’t think he needed to tape either, now I’m redoing his “pro” job
@@Mrdubomb thats a bit sad to hear, it really isnt that tough to get right so he must have messed up BIG TIME or was new to the job :)
@@ishyne22 pro's shouldn't need to watch videos like this.
I'm going to try this on my baseboard trim that meets a brick accent in my basement. I'm nervous to do it, but I think it will look better than no chalk so I don't have such noticeable gaps.
Good idea. We are replacing all our windows and we have EIFS so this would work. And we don’t want leaks!!!
I need a better close up lol but for the most parts it helped alot , thanks buddy
wonderful work of ART very intelligent approach.
Thanks
Forcing the caulk right into the crack is a great tip
Great video. Prep time pays off this way for sure
Thanks
What product did you use here? Thx
How much time did you give it, before removing the tape?
Remove the tape as soon as you are done tooling the caulk.
@@HowtoHacks that was my first question, so just to clarify you don't have to wait for it to set or anything.?
@@foreverhiddenpabz No. You actually don’t want it to setup because then you won’t be able to remove the tape.
@@HowtoHacks thanks for your video and replies much love from the UK 🇬🇧I'm going to sub.
The best way for a homeowner to do this in modern times is to use as much Quad Max as necessary, go slow, and not tool it. Tooling the sealant in this scenario with such ragged surfaces doesn't really make it look any cleaner, it just makes it smaller, and it'll fail sooner. Just put a thick bead of Quad Max down and move on.
I agree. In fact, I think in the instructions says not to tool it
So use tape or no?
Good Job! Did you use backer rod anywhere?
I did on top of the doors as the gap was bigger.
Was the guy following you smoothing it with his finger using a screwdriver to push caulk into the grout gaps? Just wondering what that technique was. Great tips here!
Yeah. The screw driver helps get in the mortar joints when needed. If you spray the caulk with soapy water from a spray bottle then smooth with your finger, your finger will glide right down the joint and make everything smooth.
Thank you, I was supposed to do this to my door with my uncle but he passed away so I never got to caulk the brick that was separated from the door. This will help me.
You’re welcome
Thanks. I replaced our front door and need to caulk it. I suck at caulking so this is just what I need.
You’re welcome.
I always prefer caulking with painters tape to give a clean line. I like how you pushed the tape into the mortar to avoid seeping. I have tan brick with a white door & trim. I repainted the trim & door sill and plan to recaulk, although it appears to have a good seal yet. The door sill was painted blue from a previous owner. The brick all around the door has old paint and caulk past my new paint line. Do you ever caulk to match the brick instead of the painted trim? I can't imagine getting the old paint & caulk off the brick but don't want the white to go too far out on the brick.
You could use caulk the color of the brick.
Do you use or recommend foam rod installation filler if the gap is very deep?
Yes
Great video!!! Would you recommend a heat gun to get some old stubborn caulk off the widows ?
It might help. I just used a utility knife, straight screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers to scrape it off the brick.
What caulk did you use? I want to redo mine. 5 year old house it’s already separated and letting moisture and dust inside. Need to do garage and windows.
OSI Quad. It’s color matched to a bunch of window manufacturers.
Do you wait for it to fully dry before peeling it?
No you want to remove the tape before the caulk begins to dry.
Are you supposed to caulk the bottom? I saw another video where it says not to culk the bottom of window trim. Door is different?
I would caulk the bottom. However it’s up to you. I know the theory of if you caulk the bottom it will trap water. However if you have brick the weep holes in the bottom act as drainage anyway. Also, the bottom of a window sill gets a lot of water in a driving rain and water will get in.
cheers mate for info on how too, looks great ty again on diy.
It states on the tube and the Quad web site that you should never tool this with your finger. You should hold it a angle so that it pushes it in the crack as you apply the caulking.
Good luck doing that between an aluminum clad window/door and brick. I noticed no reduction in the quality of the finished product after tooling. They probably say this because quad is really sticky. To tool through the stickiness you have to keep everything lubricated with mineral spirits. Then your finger just glides over the surface of the caulk no problem. However, this is just my experience with the product and you are free to do what you think is best.
@@HowtoHacks I believe to main reason is to prevent the caulking from becoming to thin. If it is to thin the sun will deteriorate it and it will no longer preform correctly.
This is possible. However, you should inspect caulking periodically anyway and add more to any voids. For the record, the doors and windows I did for this video have no cracks or voids thus far.
@@HowtoHacks I could wear a surgical plastic glove?
@@agcccggrr probably. Just make sure they are tight at the end of the finger
I might upload a video on how to press and drag the caulk on brick for a much faster and just as clean method. Takes some practice, but much faster.
do itttttttt
Did you manage to upload ?
What if there’s a big gap between the brick and the frame? Expansion foam, then caulk?
I would install a backer rod then caulk over that. Backer rods are foam rods and they come in various sizes. Expanding spray foam might make too much of a mess as it tends to expand too much in my experience.
That close up shot at 5:06 looks like there's a crack on the left side of the bead and door frame. Did removing the tape pull the caulk out?
That’s a slot to accept mulling strips. Mulling strips are a way to hold windows and doors together to create one big unit.
www.google.com/search?q=mulling+strips&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari
@@HowtoHacks Good to know. I thought your technique was excellent and that there couldn't be a gap after such a good application. Thanks for the quick reply and great video!
This is very helpful. Unfortunately, when my house was built, the builders didn't use tape. How do you suggest removing the caulk that's all over the bricks? For what it worth, the caulk is 15 years old and is falling apart.
Yes you have to remove the old caulk before putting in new.
@@HowtoHacks How do you suggest I remove the old caulk?
@@MollyThePitifulPit I use a utility knife to cut the caulk, needle-nose pliers to pull out what can be grabbed, and a flat screw driver to scrape any remaining.
@@HowtoHacks Great. Thank you so much. I'm really dreading having to pay someone close to $1000 to have it removed. Going to need all the patience in the world to do it myself, but I think I can tackle it. Thanks again.
@@MollyThePitifulPit I know how you feel. When I made this video I was also removing some old caulk from old windows and doors. Each one took about 45 to 90 minutes depending on the size and how well it was caulked. Patience is definitely key.
what's the best way in bricks? painters tape on both sides? My first chore is getting 20 years of caulk off the brick exterior window seam. it's so bad.... i had to make it worse just so the most recent string of thundestorms didn't put more water in there, now I not only have to figure out a way to get 20 years of caulk off , i have my own recent mess to clean off of there. I needed to take a deep breath and put the tools away, google how to do it right , and then i'll get to taking that caulk off the bring. Was I seening things right that when i tried to peel a bit of caulk off that some of the brick/mortar was coming off with the caulk??? holy crap i hope i was seeing things. Will Citristrip help or mineral spirits to soften it, or should i use a heat gun or something?
To remove the old caulk I used a utility knife and cut along the window at a slight angle with the tip of the blade touching the brick. I then took a flat screw driver and scrapped up and down where the caulk was attached to the brick and it worked ok. If a little bit of brick dust and mortar come off it’s no big deal. Also more mortar cane be added before you caulk. I can make a video about this if that would help?
@@HowtoHacks yea, a video would be great...it's one of the hardest things to figure out how to clean up (remove) before re-caulking and thanks a ton SUBSCRIBED !!
Please tell me what kind and color of caulk you used. Thanks
Below is what I used. It’s called OSI Quad and can be color matched to any window. images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/d9/d9bcad11-382c-4f0b-b286-5bbbe6f2a103.pdf
Any tips on corners?
What kind of corners?
Are you saying "ISO Quad," and is that the same brand as OSI Quad? Thanks.
I said Iso but meant OSI. Dyslexic moment.
What is the brand name of the caulk
OSI Quad
amzn.to/3CcscYz
What type of caulk are you using?
OSI Quad
Is that paintable or silicone caulk that you used in this video? And did you peel the tape before or after the caulk dried?
OSI Quad caulk is paintable. However you can order color matched caulk.
Yeah I had the same question, how quickly do you remove the tape?
thanks
I gotta do a window soon
Thanks buddy. Great work, and now I don't have to learn the hard way!
You’re welcome
What kind of caulk were u using
OSI Quad
Nicely done. Liked and subscribed. Thx for the tips.
You’re welcome and thanks!
How come my heavy adhesive painters tape doesn't stick to the brick?
That’s just how it is. It hardly sticks but it still works. Just press firmly and work it into the joints. After a little practice it goes quick.
try frog tape
Thanks for the tips tips
How far back do you cut the tip of the caulk
It depends on how big of a bead you want. Cut the tip back so the opening is about the same size as the gap you are trying to fill. For small cracks I cut a small hole that’s about the same size as the crack.
@@HowtoHacks brilliant. Thanks!!
The other guy was using some kind of tool. What tool is he using and what is he doing with it?
He was using a flat head screwdriver to smooth the caulk out a little in places his finger would not fit. Mostly for the spaces in the mortar joints.
That looks great! Thank you for teaching us!
You’re welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
I love this method and used it. But now I just watched a video from OSI Quad and they say you shouldn’t tool - use your finger to smooth - their caulk/sealant. Now I’m confused again. Does smoothing with your finger degrade the quality of the product? I can’t see any other way to do it unless you are a smooth master with the caulking gun, which I am not.
The only reason I can see them saying not to tool is because they don’t want any liability. Meaning they don’t want to tell people to use their fingers and get sued by someone for some weird reason. From my experience, tooling the caulk does nothing to degrade the caulk. I don’t even remotely see how it could.
@@HowtoHacks It’s weird, I know. This is what I saw. www.ositough.com/en/training/protect-against-sealant-failure.html
But even what they show as proper application doesn’t look very good to me without tooling.
I mean if you wipe out too much it could fail because the layer is too thin. Other than that I see no issue with tooling. In fact I prefer it.
You really don't want to get elastomeric caulk on your skin. It's nasty shit and won't come off with out mineral spirits. Osi shouldn't be tooled. Lay a clean bead and walk away.
Nice job - thanks!
Thanks
Were you using polyurethane caulk?
yes, you always you that!
Below is what I used. It’s called OSI Quad and can be color matched to any window. This caulk isn’t classified as polyurethane. images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/d9/d9bcad11-382c-4f0b-b286-5bbbe6f2a103.pdf
in the video at the end on the close-up shot, it still looked like there was a seam that was void of caulk @ 5:05 a straight thin line of empty. im sure it was just the video but can you explain that? also, you didn't say how long you waited for the caulk to dry before removing tape....thanks for this awesome video!!!! great idea guys!!!
What you are seeing is the slot around the perimeter that is there to accept a mullion strip. A mullion strip is how multiple windows or doors can be joined together to make one larger unit. So you don’t want to caulk that. Watch the part of the video where I am applying the tape again and you will see the slot right at the edge of the door. I pulled the tape immediately after i was done smoothing the caulk out. Don’t wait for the caulk to dry at all.
@@HowtoHacks how much time do you have for tooling quad caulk before it sets and leaves a raised edge along the tape line?
Probably about 10 to 20 min depending on the weather. It might say in the literature as that’s just my approximation.
@@HowtoHacks mullion strip...gotcha, wow learned something new...i see now what you did
Great job 👏
Thanks
Why did it still look like there was a crack at the end that did not get caulked?
That’s for mullion strips. Look for previous comments about this under the video. A mullion strip is a way to connect aluminum clad windows and or doors together.
I hope you guys smoothed it out after wards if not that looks like crap 🤮
It was tooled smooth.
Battery caulk gun!
I was thinking of doing this but at the same time i want to learn the real way that people that caulk all day use. looks like a piece of wood and soapy water
You will have a hard time around brick using the OSI Quad caulk as it’s really messy.
I'm a noob with this but why caulk vs foam? I watch alot of these videos but no one has said when to caulk or foam windows?
Foam goes on the inside for insulation. Caulk on the outside to keep out water.
@@HowtoHacks thank you!
Fab job!
Thanks
Hello Friend! I live in Russia and do this business on a professional basis, I polish wooden houses, paint them as an artist and make a canapatka and sealing)))or exterior caulking etc. I want to move to another shit I am looking for a political shelter? I can find myself and how much I can earn !! Thank you very much for your answer!!!
brick should never have caulk on it, my brick is ruined because a window company hired outside help that put white silicone caulking and did a terrible job and now its in big globs all over my window frames. I have heavily textured older brick, and no amount of wire wheel scraping or solvent is getting it off. they never used tape, needless to say, my house looks like crap now.
try & use paint to comoflouge it I went to sherwin williams & got 3 quarts of paint to match brick coloring and took three bricks tell them you're trying to hide smeared caulk use art brushes I did mine several years ago
Dropping a LIKE on your video - nicely done! Watching and Supporting!
Thanks!
Thanks.
You’re welcome
Lol nice caulk!
Amazing
Thanks boss
You’re welcome
I tried this....and then the caulk was getting pulled up with the tape at the edge :( it kept setting so quickly I could not go fast enough
You have to wipe as much excess caulk off as possible where the edge of the tape is. If it’s too deep there then the caulk will get stringy when you pull the tape up.
@@HowtoHacks yup that was it. I have to do 20 windows.....after doing 4 windows I got a system down. I have gaps to backfill and then I have butt joints. Both require a different approach on laying the tape.
But i basically tape the window and brick off, I'll do the top of window, pull tape off. Run down the right side, pull tape off.
After I got my methodical approach I was smooth sailing.
Getting the window cleaned and prepped takes awhile
Don’t tool (smooth out with finger or anything) quad max.
That’s what it says. Do it that way if it worries you. However, around brick that’s very difficult. From what I have observed it doesn’t affect the performance of the caulk. I did all the windows and doors in my house this way (and other small jobs). I have checked them every year in the spring and fall. No cracking or shrinking in the joint. I feel like they say this because Quad caulking is very sticky. However if you spay on soapy water before tooling your finger just glides right over with no issues.
“As much calk down in the crack as you can” 😏 i can get behind that
I've tried to nicely force my caulk down my girls crack too!😁
Mineral spirit + rag .... other dude proceeds to wipe with his finger...
You can put mineral spirits on your finger and wipe. Then use the rag to clean your finger.
@@HowtoHacks with out sounding silly what would you class as minimal spirit ? A little thinners ?
@@foreverhiddenpabz Mineral spirits.
Wish I would have watched this before attempting to caulk my window
He said Caulk, lol, lmao.....lmao.....lmao.....
If you read the back of quad caulking, it will tell you to leave a three eights bead, just takes practice to get it right. Those thin beads will crack overtime. Guaranteed.
Big Daddy Caulk.
Definitely as much caulk in the crack as possible.
No pro will really spend that time taping.
Lay thick beads and spray with a lot of soapy water then drag a 3/4" flat stick down.
It leaves a perfect flat finish.
Actually all the pros do this. Anyone who doesn't is not a professional but is probably a smash and dash crew.
@@bedhead1903
I'm guessing you've never done that work yourself.
NO PRO DOES IT.
Those techniques are for amateurs, it is the same as free hand paint brushing. Amateurs tape pros free hand. Pro go for speed.
Good luck trying to use soap and water w/ Quad - get ready for a mess.
Can someone explain what the comment means. Sorry I have never done this before. I have quite a big project. Although this is by far the safest option, I am guessing it would be really time consuming. Is there any other ways?
@@foreverhiddenpabz
I will try and find or make a video for you. But taping takes forever.
Get a real caulking gun, not one that clicks like this one. They suck and will give you trouble when trying to achieve a nice joint
I think you know this is not how caulking is done. Takes way too long, wastes tape and caulking, and does not give a good result. When you rip the tape off, it can rip the fresh caulking edge with it. Small tubes like this with small nozzles will not do a professional job. You need a large sausage gun with large nozzles. No tape.
Those small guns can do bathroom caulking, that is what I use, but for large exterior beads like the bridge between window and brick, you need at east a 3/4 to 1 inch bead. You can't do it with those tubes or guns like the builders do it. I have done caulking repair for 35 years with those tubes, but it is not really a professional result and not how you would caulk a new door or window.
This video shows how it is done professionally. ruclips.net/video/By90PdmsODo/видео.html
It’s a mess, Bette you live caulking to a caulker
?
You didnt even finish it with a tool u just left it how it is
No. Ended up just using our fingers as the tool as they fit in the space better than an actual tool.
You can't tool OSI caulking! Read the instructions.......
I have answered this so many times in the comments. If you don’t want to tool it, then don’t!
That’s what it says. Do it that way if it worries you. However, around brick that’s very difficult. From what I have observed it doesn’t affect the performance of the caulk. I did all the windows and doors in my house this way (and other small jobs). I have checked them every year in the spring and fall. No cracking or shrinking in the joint. I feel like they say this because Quad caulking is very sticky. However if you spay on soapy water before tooling your finger just glides right over with no issues.
why is he using his finger -- human oil interacts chemically with caulk (use a putty blade)
Get a life… The guy put up a helpful video, go troll elsewhere Karen
Please learn to say caulk.
Haha I’ll do my best.
Another Caulking disaster video All that taping is hilarious. If anyone ever taped before caulking a simple thing like a doorframe or anything else They would probably be Fired or at least never caulk again. When he pulls that tape he breaks the seal all the way down I’d run and knife that door in way less time than this guy takes to tape
Not against brick with OSI quad caulk. That stuff can’t be wiped off of brick. That’s the point of the tape. Anything else I don’t use tape and do what you just described. Also, I did this in 2019 and the caulk looks brand new, no cracking and the seal is good. I taped and caulked one of these doors in like 15 minutes. Not that much of a time commitment…