Reviving Satsuki Azalea Rootballs (2 yr timelapse of 18 satsukis)
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- I got 18 satsuki azaleas for bonsai. They were intertwined, lots of roots growing thick hard rootballs. Hard medicin was needed. I really worked them hard to get a better base for rootball development.
I show the progress of 18 Azaleas over 2 years during the pruning, rootwork and subsequent recovery into prebonsai material!
This format of videos spanning almost 2 years is just amazing!
Glad you enjoy it! Loads more in the making. Some of them intended as 5+ year progressions
Must remember to cut the flower buds of my cuttings. Thanks for the reminder Jelle 👍
Yes you do, go out now!
Thanks Jelle for your amazing content. Do you have a video on jap maple air layers callousing but no roots. What to do? Is blocking out light around air layer important?
Great video, Jelle. Love your azalea content
Thanks so much! Japanese azaleas are somewhat new to me. I had one a long time ago but was not succesfull. Now since a few years restarted growing them, with MUCH better results. All comes with eperience I think.
@@GrowingBonsai You gotta get your hands on one with a big trunk
You make it look so easy !
It is not rocket science :)
do you perhaps have a website or etsy to be able to buy those rooted cuttings? the white and striped white flowers are so beautiful
Nice video nice shape tree s thanks jelle keep up the good work mate thanks
Thanks 👍 Thank you for continuing to stop by!
Great results as I would expect Jelle. Once I felt confident about cutting back hard my whole journey with these changed dramatically. They do root pretty easily as well. Loved the timelapse :)
Exactly! They seem so fussy, until you give them a hard time and all of the sudden they boost your confidence!
Your Azaleas are looking great, just a side question. I'm quite new to Bonsai. I only have 9 trees, and I'm not sure what fertilizer I should use. I use 50% coco peat 50% perlite (all my trees are in development). What do you use? I started December. Zone 10b. Once again, your skill in unmatched🍁
You don’t need to use anything advertised as Bonsai fertiliser, it’s expensive and no more than almost every commercial product! There are two types of fertiliser, Organic and Chemical, both come in solid and liquid variants, choose which you prefer! As a novice you might like to consider using a slow release granular fertiliser until you learn more about when and why, they are generally well balanced and there is no danger in over fertilising and burning roots!
The substrate you are using is fine for cuttings but for more mature trees you need to use a more robust substrate as Coco Peat will decompose (slowly) and Perlite has a poor Cation Exchange Capacity (the ability to capture micro nutrients).
@sadoldgit313 So should I switch to an inorganic soil spring like Akadama lava and Pumice, then start fertilizering.
Fertilizer.. Is not so important what you use.. Just yesterday I was at a local cheap store and bought their home-brand "complete" fertilizer. I prefer to use multiple products throughout the year. I do have specific bonsai fertilizer, but in reality, any generic fertilizer with trace elements is a good starting point, to be refined as you go along. Look at my channel and search for fertilizer. I have 2 fundamentals on it.
@GrowingBonsai thank you will do, I found an NPK fertilizer at my local bonsai nursery. Its ratio is 13:5:8, so I'll start using that in spring it's currently early winter in South africa 🇿🇦
Hello
I was wondering if you could tell me where you bought the Satzuki's from?
Regards
Harrison
Just off an online advertisement board; Someone in my area was selling them.
If you still got too many azaleas, you can just send me some😂😂😂. Very nice video, and now I'm going to tackle my Japanese azalea, but its not a Satsuki though.
Depending on how serious you are.. For 25E + shipping I could send you one, if living in EU open borders area.
@@GrowingBonsai unfortunately I live in Norway, and that border are not open like that, so I have to let it pass this time. I really regret I didn't buy one when I visited Lodder Bonsai two years ago.
Hello Jelle, another abonnee to the quite impressive number of 31.8 K!
I am propagating and nursering Azalea's and Japanese Azalea's too for quite a few years now. You might be interested in a few thoughts... By the way: I live in the Netherlands...
- I agree: Azalea's are quite easy to propagate. I think the reason it is not done that much, is that you do have to be quite patient. That's not the strongest point of many bonsaï enthousiasts in the West, so to speak. It is certainly not a fast growing plant, especially in our (Western) regions.
- To be honest: I do not quite agree with comparing the Japanese (climate) situation (condition) with the conditions in our, Western region. In general: the winters over there are much milder and much more moist; they do have this raining season over there. That is, especially for Azalea's, a rather important difference that should not be overlooked, I think. In general the Japanese climate is in fact much more suitable for Japanese Azalea's than ours (Western Europe). Also, Japanese bonsaï masters, do have a completely different attitude handling and caring for their bonsaï. They might also be more patient than we tend to be, in the West. Of course, we can and should learn as much as possible from them. But we perhaps should not try to copy them and their way of creating and nursering bonsaï?
- Kanuma soil is not as acid as many people seem to think. In fact, it's hardly acid at all (you can measure it by making a very moist Kanuma soil mixture). But, it becomes a bit acid in time and it's very suitable for Azalea's. However, the risk of drying out is quite high in our region. Personally, I simply mix it with normal potting soil that is meant for acid-loving plants, as Azalea's are. That works fine with me, it is far more cheaper and it prevents the soil quite well from drying out. As you know, drying out is by far the most dangerous threat for Azalea's. A dry Azalea is a dead Azalea...
- When propagating, I do not cut at all because the main goal I have, is the little Azalea to survive and produce roots. Cutting to soon and too much, does not really help. Cutting afterwards, branches and roots, is far more safe in my experiences. Furthermore, the growing process will be quite faster.
- (very) Young Azalea's are quite easy to bend. You might wire loosely, in a tube-like way or use a wire to pull the little trunk a bit to one side and than later to the other side, for instance. But, you have to watch the wire closely to prevent it from biting into the trunk. But again, it can be done quite easily with very young trunks. By doing so, you can let it grow for quite a long time without cutting because you do not have to cut larger branches too soon, to get some interesting shapes. That helps the growing process of the plant (or tree).
- I stop fertilizing as soon as the flowerbuds are growing. After flowering, I cut them (heavily) back, including the rootball if necessary. A few weeks after that, I start fertilizing again untill the end of the growing season witch might be early Autumn or so (depending on weather conditions).
- Azalea's are far more resiliant as many people might think! Originally, they grow in quite harsh conditions in mountain regions and they can endure a lot. But not drying out...
- When they start flowering and you want to enjoy the flowering as much and as long as possible, you should keep them out of the afternoon sun. Removing those flowers that finished blooming immediately and completely, can extend the flowering period for weeks! At least, that is my experience.
- Once you have a healthy, little Azalea, it can also be kept in a very small pot. Those very little Azalea's, especially when flowering, are very, very suitable as "accent plants" or simply to cheer up a shelf with mainly green bonsaï!
- As we can see in the video, young Azalea's can flower very soon, sometimes already when they are only one year old.
- Another interesting thing might be: as Azalea's should be planted in soil that is a bit acid (or will turn into acid soil in time), people should not also fertilize with a special fertilizer for acid loving plants. That would be too much. You can use normal bonsaï fertilizer. Special Azalea fertilizer is often meant for those Azalea's who are not planted in ideal (slightly acid) soil.
Good luck with your RUclips chanel!
Thanks a lot!
Those are lovely. I’ll have to research how they would do here in Arizona (it’s already +100 f today)
They do prefer humid air afaik. So be carefull with arizona winds and sun
My other trees grow on the east side of the house with a shade structure, but it still might be enough. Olives and other tough trees are happy, but humidity is not a thing here, 20% is normal most of the year.
Why did you say give the red away and keep the white with a stripe ?
A very interesting question. I'm looking forward to the answer of Jelle.
The way these azaleas work is that a white branch can get a red flowering sport. But red flowering sports typically do not get white sports. So it goes from white -> striped or pink -> red. To have all patterns on one plant you thus best start off with a white branch
I think I deal with it here: ruclips.net/video/cSYxcLonMuU/видео.html
I have an azalea which I want to cut back to get back in shape. 20yr old, nice branch structure but grown out too much.
I'm thinking of cutting back all branches to no leaves. Is it risky? Any advice you can give?
Go for it! Healthy azalea will throw buds all over the place after strong pruning.
@@GrowingBonsai Does it also grow buds when I cut back on secundair and tertiary branches?
I'm a bit afraid that some branches will die if I cut it back hard. I did remove flowers this year, so it got some extra power
For the first time, I have boxes of azaleas from cuttings this yers, so I'll be using these tips...we are going into winter now in patagonia, so in a couple of months they will be moved to pots
Thank you
Great! I love the easy with which these propagate!
Why you keep only the white ones?
I believe the branches/plants with white flowers can have white, white with pink and pink flowers. The ones with pink flowers will only have pink flowers. If I am wrong I hope someone will correct me!
ruclips.net/video/cSYxcLonMuU/видео.html
Thank you very much to both of you, have a nice day
👍👌🙂
:) Had to be harsh on these little ones!
Look nice😍😍👍👍👍... Hi sir X file😎...
Glad you like it!