Diesel Tech Ron passed away in early 2016. Right about the time I bought my 06 6.0. I had a one time occurrence where I was pulling my 5th wheel camper up a grade and was doing pretty good until the boost dropped. It was like that for about 30 seconds or so. Then it everything starting again. No check engine light or codes seems to be thrown out. I watch what the engine is doing using a Scanguage 2 that is plugged in all the time. In the year since that, it has not repeated it. Anyway, great video. Nice to have good people who know a thing or two about the 6.0. They really are a good engine.
@Reyansh Kingston I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
As usual, Wes makes it an interesting subject to cover. He's definitely the best of the best mechanic on RUclips with his abilities and at explaining what and how he fixes what he's working on.
Wes, I worked for the local Navistar International dealer for 26 years as a parts guy, retired in 2014. Navistar made those engines for Ford and also used them on the Navistar medium duty big trucks, in a different configuration to fit in a different engine compartment. Those engines have some issues, but the issues can be addressed. I am not sure on that engine, but with most turbos the clearance in the turbo shaft is measured at the oil feed hole, not at the ends of the shaft, where the reading is amplified. Typically you will pull the shaft from both ends, then push the shaft from both ends in the opposite direction, with an indicator on the center of the shaft, between the bearings to get the clearance reading -- for most turbos. Your engine may have a different protocol for that test, and I am just a retired parts guy, but I did sell a lot of parts for those engines, both for IH and for Ford applications...
That sounds a lot more scientific than what I did. I could not find a spec for my turbo, so I mostly just wanted to compare before and after the rebuild. Before the rebuild the intake impeller could actually rub on the housing.
Good, and I thought you did a really good job on your repairs. Quality work. The reason I mentioned the turbine shaft clearance measurement is that many do not know how to do it, and when they wiggle the end of the shaft they think it is awful. Then they check the spec and find it is a lot less, and replace or rebuild the turbo. Unnecessarily. Make sure you understand the book method of testing it before condemning it. If the vanes and housing are worn from rubbing, that is certainly a bad sign, but a lot of turbos run on and on that way.
The worst thing for these turbo's is to park a truck for months without use. The cast iron housing on the exhaust side is prone to rusting up seizing the unison ring. Mine as in yours wore a divit in the unison ring because it was stuck there. I filled it in with my wire feed welder and file'd it smooth again. Free'd up the action and improved it a lot. I lightly sand blasted off the rusty blisters inside the housing. Worked great. Feel the power ! Use caution when lubing this exhaust side. It is meant to run hot clean and dry. Don't want anything that will gunk it up.
I rebuilt the turbo in my 6.0 and i couldnt find the tourque specs anywere so just did it by hand had no problems out of it and i used the original bolts the new ones looked cheap
hey Wes. I've been a subscriber for pushing 2 yrs (maybe longer) and while I've seen many uploads from the old shop days, I'd never caught this one. glad the algorithm led me to it. great simple presentation 👍👍👍
brand new wiggler pin on the wobbler shaft. nice.. I have often been asked how I know how to fix or work on so much stuff. Long ago I was an industrial mechanic. Then robotics as a core and then I moved on to computers. I now run an IT department. In my spare time I rebuild engines, weld up crap and maybe even bake some bread. I don't understand folks being scared of trying stuff. What's the worst that could happen?
Ok welcome to 6 leakers, if you still are lacking bottom end boost, you have a exhaust leak. Look up oil filters for that engine, unless you are specifically running wix filters, get a new oem cap, because they are about an inch shorter. And like said before rip diesel tech Ron, learned alot from that man. Oh and delete that thing, like yesterday...
so what was the verdict on this, solve the issues you were having? Your truck was the first year of the 6.0 right? At least you don't have a DPF to deal with
I would’ve never been able to get my oil cooler replaced of it wasn’t for Ron, especially since I don’t have the money to put it in a shop for an extended period
So what's the chances my 6.0 liter isn't toast? I bought a '06 F350 and finally got around to servicing it (I haven't used it since buying it other than keeping the engine going once in a while) and noticed the intake boot on the turbo was loose. To my knowledge, a "diesel specialty shop" did head studs, and a turbo about 30k ago and my suspicion is that the boot has been sitting loose for the whole time. But this truck never had a low power complaint and actually pulled better than most of our other trucks (I bought it off of my employer). I guess I could check for blow by from the oil fill but the turbo fins definitely looked sanded.
Great video Wes. Comforting to know exactly what is ahead of me with the turbo rebuild. Thank you. I think my turbo needs a rebuild. I also have a 06 6.0 in my F350. The check engine light comes on about every 30 days with the 0299 code. Not loosing power but I am hearing a sound that sounds like a rubbing blade or shaft. I don't use the truck everyday so that's why it shows every 30 days approximately. Is there a list of parts that you replaced with part numbers and manufacturer? Thanks again!!
Start with the simple things. Check the air filter, check the boots for the charge air cooler tubing, etc. It's a variable geometry turbo, so that adds some complications. The exhaust manifold pressure sensor and several other sensor inputs contribute to the turbo VGT actuator behavior. Exhaust pressure sensors need to be cleaned periodically. They can cause all kinds of weird behavior like low power, black smoke, bad fuel economy. I just bought the kit from ebay. They're available from many sources.
Ok, so Wes, please take this the right way but is there anything you don’t know? The video where you mentioned a flyback transformer about blew me away. And now this. I love it. Best vids on the Tube.
@@dacollecta2000 Some dumb ass kid fell asleep, crossed over the line and hit him. Ron's car flipped. He was ejected out the sunroof. Horrible accident.
Hey, so I have a little to no boost issue after rebuilding my turbo on a 05 f350 6.0. I have chased everything and can’t get it figured out. No leaks or anything.
Hey Wes, I just bought a 2004 f350 6.0 at auction. Everything was good in the lot where i tested it; no blowby, no dirty or excessive smoke out of the exhaust, engine sounds good, trans is good and it goes into 4hi and 4lo easily. But upon taking it onto the highway i found it had no balls over 2000 rpm and it really didnt want to go over 70 mph. Do you think the turbo is the problem?
It's possible. I would check the fuel pressure first. If the fuel pressure is good, check the exhaust manifold pressure sensor. It's under the degass bottle. They get sooted up and can cause the truck to have low power and lots of black smoke.
thanks for the video. i was having similar issues and one of silicone boot clamps worked loose. still want to do this though. got a 0299 and a couple more codes also. tightened it, cleared dct's, put 35 miles on it and no codes. still seems to be an issue sometimes with no boost from stop.
@@WatchWesWork Thanks Wes. I have an issue with starting as well. I'm showing a control circuit failure in glow plug 3. would that be doing it? hell it's the middle of june. All filters are changed and i'm using archoil products in the fuel and oil.
@@steveboggs9025 the glow plugs cycle even when its 100 degrees out, and yes on a 6.0,even 1 bad glow plug makes it a hard starting pig, I worked for a school bus company that had 450 of these, I eat, sleep, and have nightmares about the 6.0l
my truck recently has acquired a high pitch whistle coming from the turbo and when i unplug the vgt it stops but when i plug it back in it starts top make the high pitch whistle again. any ideas what it would be.
Hey Bearing Boy! Gots a question fer ya. If you were to make a merry-go-round, which bearing would you use on the center spindle? (actually, it's for a tetrahedron that I'm going to make...fancy schmancy wind indicator) But, the merry-go-round is an easier way of asking. Thanks in advance.
@@WatchWesWork It's going to be huge...like 15' long. Search for "Airport Tetrahedron" It will always be moving. Still think that's a good material? (I hope so, as I don't have any way to machine a hunk of steel) The forces won't be much on it, but it will always be moving. & Thank you!
Excellent video. I have same issues, (P0299 low boost pressure and occasional black smoke with no power on acceleration and a little oil in passage under EGR), but ordered new turbo, but I'll rebuild old one.
Check your EBT sensor. It monitors exhaust pressure. Cleaning it can really help the black smoke issues. If it's dirty, you should also clean the EGR valve.
Thanks! I cleaned EGR valve, and while it was not heavily crusted with carbon, when i pushed it open, it stayed open. After cleaning it opened and closed ok. Still had occasional black smoke so i replaced EGR with new Motorcraft EGR. I'll clean EBT sensor while waiting for new turbo to arrive. The black smoke is only on acceleration, and only occasionally, maybe about 1 in 10 startups from stop. Truck has 165,000 miles and probably original turbo so the unison ring is probably binding. Interestingly, never had black smoke problem until I picked truck up from dealer after getting differential pinion seal replaced and had them change oil while it was there. I only drive truck a couple of times per month. 2007 F550
....Clearance on that shaft....even the max allowed at .012"' seems pretty large....do you know what the 'factory' spec is...? That .030" would surely be a leaker..... Nice video, I've never worked on a turbo, but do understand how they work...
I never could find a spec or even where to properly check it. It was suggested to check it through the oil hole, not at the end. That makes sense to me, but I can't find any real info for my turbo.
..I've worked on a variety of machines and motor vehicles, I'd guess a 'good' fit for pressurized oil in a sleeve like that might be .003-4"....? and possibly a variation accounting for heat expansion..... Years ago, I had a friend that worked at Garrett, rebuilding turbos to factory spec's....it was actually in the 1970's....their stuff was always top quality.....but he seldom mentioned his work during off-hours...too busy with the Harleys at home....and, mostly all roller bearings in them....little oil pressure, but it has to be there all the time.....001" was a good fit....
Wes, you should never measure clearance on end of shaft. Your dial gauge reading is taken through drain hole in center housing. Customers ‘wiggle’ their compressor wheel all time & tell us that it’s excessive as they can’t lift shaft evenly with exhaust housing on. Let me know your thoughts.
I've got 125k on my 2007 PS 6.0 F250 it's never been the the shop I cleaned the egr valve the other day it made it run like new again should I pull and clean my turbo?
Can you show a pic oh it , the egr was really caked up but no lights has ever came on the dash but I want to learn how to maintain this 6.0 the right way it's my first diesel I've ever owned
If ford would give us an extra inch of clearance. Guess they like removing the cab for everything. Removing the turbo and jamming it back in is like a puzzle.
I like YOUR vids very much-!- but please wes where some protection on your skin -!- the oils your using will get into your skin and can cause a blood disease
Diesel Tech Ron passed away in early 2016. Right about the time I bought my 06 6.0. I had a one time occurrence where I was pulling my 5th wheel camper up a grade and was doing pretty good until the boost dropped. It was like that for about 30 seconds or so. Then it everything starting again. No check engine light or codes seems to be thrown out. I watch what the engine is doing using a Scanguage 2 that is plugged in all the time. In the year since that, it has not repeated it. Anyway, great video. Nice to have good people who know a thing or two about the 6.0. They really are a good engine.
Diesel Tech Ron Was killed in a car accident. He made working on Powerstroke's believable. God rest his soul!
@Landyn David damn, these comments are everywhere.
@Reyansh Kingston I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Reyansh Kingston it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
@Bryson Miller glad I could help =)
As usual, Wes makes it an interesting subject to cover.
He's definitely the best of the best mechanic on RUclips with his abilities and at explaining what and how he fixes what he's working on.
I had no idea you could rebuild a turbo at home or ever seen the inside of one to know how they work. Great video!
Wes, I worked for the local Navistar International dealer for 26 years as a parts guy, retired in 2014. Navistar made those engines for Ford and also used them on the Navistar medium duty big trucks, in a different configuration to fit in a different engine compartment. Those engines have some issues, but the issues can be addressed. I am not sure on that engine, but with most turbos the clearance in the turbo shaft is measured at the oil feed hole, not at the ends of the shaft, where the reading is amplified. Typically you will pull the shaft from both ends, then push the shaft from both ends in the opposite direction, with an indicator on the center of the shaft, between the bearings to get the clearance reading -- for most turbos. Your engine may have a different protocol for that test, and I am just a retired parts guy, but I did sell a lot of parts for those engines, both for IH and for Ford applications...
That sounds a lot more scientific than what I did. I could not find a spec for my turbo, so I mostly just wanted to compare before and after the rebuild. Before the rebuild the intake impeller could actually rub on the housing.
Good, and I thought you did a really good job on your repairs. Quality work. The reason I mentioned the turbine shaft clearance measurement is that many do not know how to do it, and when they wiggle the end of the shaft they think it is awful. Then they check the spec and find it is a lot less, and replace or rebuild the turbo. Unnecessarily. Make sure you understand the book method of testing it before condemning it. If the vanes and housing are worn from rubbing, that is certainly a bad sign, but a lot of turbos run on and on that way.
Bob Korve
The worst thing for these turbo's is to park a truck for months without use. The cast iron housing on the exhaust side is prone to rusting up seizing the unison ring. Mine as in yours wore a divit in the unison ring because it was stuck there. I filled it in with my wire feed welder and file'd it smooth again. Free'd up the action and improved it a lot. I lightly sand blasted off the rusty blisters inside the housing. Worked great. Feel the power ! Use caution when lubing this exhaust side. It is meant to run hot clean and dry. Don't want anything that will gunk it up.
I rebuilt the turbo in my 6.0 and i couldnt find the tourque specs anywere so just did it by hand had no problems out of it and i used the original bolts the new ones looked cheap
Corey Shedd any chance you ever came across those specs since then lol I’m a perfectionist and I’m having the same issue locating the documents.
@@danielleneve9071 Which specs do you need?
hey Wes. I've been a subscriber for pushing 2 yrs (maybe longer) and while I've seen many uploads from the old shop days, I'd never caught this one. glad the algorithm led me to it. great simple presentation 👍👍👍
Excellent video Wes, and thank you. I think my bearings are starting to go, and this video helps me out a lot.
Very helpfull video thank you very much, very calm and straight forward voice. Subscribed
brand new wiggler pin on the wobbler shaft. nice.. I have often been asked how I know how to fix or work on so much stuff. Long ago I was an industrial mechanic. Then robotics as a core and then I moved on to computers. I now run an IT department. In my spare time I rebuild engines, weld up crap and maybe even bake some bread. I don't understand folks being scared of trying stuff. What's the worst that could happen?
Ok welcome to 6 leakers, if you still are lacking bottom end boost, you have a exhaust leak. Look up oil filters for that engine, unless you are specifically running wix filters, get a new oem cap, because they are about an inch shorter.
And like said before rip diesel tech Ron, learned alot from that man.
Oh and delete that thing, like yesterday...
so what was the verdict on this, solve the issues you were having? Your truck was the first year of the 6.0 right? At least you don't have a DPF to deal with
the first 6.0 powerstroke was 2003
You made it look easy, Wes! Thank you for the great video.
Thank you for this. I needed that.
I would’ve never been able to get my oil cooler replaced of it wasn’t for Ron, especially since I don’t have the money to put it in a shop for an extended period
How much was the rebuild kit and the new exhaust parts cost? Is there A link to the rebuild kit you bought?
So what's the chances my 6.0 liter isn't toast? I bought a '06 F350 and finally got around to servicing it (I haven't used it since buying it other than keeping the engine going once in a while) and noticed the intake boot on the turbo was loose. To my knowledge, a "diesel specialty shop" did head studs, and a turbo about 30k ago and my suspicion is that the boot has been sitting loose for the whole time. But this truck never had a low power complaint and actually pulled better than most of our other trucks (I bought it off of my employer). I guess I could check for blow by from the oil fill but the turbo fins definitely looked sanded.
Great video Wes. Comforting to know exactly what is ahead of me with the turbo rebuild. Thank you. I think my turbo needs a rebuild. I also have a 06 6.0 in my F350. The check engine light comes on about every 30 days with the 0299 code. Not loosing power but I am hearing a sound that sounds like a rubbing blade or shaft. I don't use the truck everyday so that's why it shows every 30 days approximately. Is there a list of parts that you replaced with part numbers and manufacturer? Thanks again!!
Start with the simple things. Check the air filter, check the boots for the charge air cooler tubing, etc. It's a variable geometry turbo, so that adds some complications. The exhaust manifold pressure sensor and several other sensor inputs contribute to the turbo VGT actuator behavior. Exhaust pressure sensors need to be cleaned periodically. They can cause all kinds of weird behavior like low power, black smoke, bad fuel economy. I just bought the kit from ebay. They're available from many sources.
Was it having any issues with running roughly? Your video was very helpful thanks man
Great Job buddy
And good to show US 👍🏾
Great video.
Ok, so Wes, please take this the right way but is there anything you don’t know? The video where you mentioned a flyback transformer about blew me away. And now this. I love it. Best vids on the Tube.
Man nice she got boost now sounds good
Nice video Wes. BTW, DieselTechRon lived just north from me here in southern CA. He is no longer with us. RIP Ron...
OK. For some reason I thought he was in Florida.
RIP Ron. He was definitely a very helpful man
He died?? I owe him so much. He helped me diagnose a faulty wiring harness on my 03 6.0... RIP Ron, you saved me thousands!
@@dacollecta2000 Some dumb ass kid fell asleep, crossed over the line and hit him. Ron's car flipped. He was ejected out the sunroof. Horrible accident.
@@jtnoodle very sad indeed and also very unfortunate, he was not wearing his seatbelt.
You ok Wes? You seem to have lost your sparkle.
I hope all is well with you & yours.
Concerned thoughts from across the pond. 💜☮️
What?
I miss DieselTech Ron!
Hey, so I have a little to no boost issue after rebuilding my turbo on a 05 f350 6.0. I have chased everything and can’t get it figured out. No leaks or anything.
Really cool video . you are hired.
Hey Wes, I just bought a 2004 f350 6.0 at auction. Everything was good in the lot where i tested it; no blowby, no dirty or excessive smoke out of the exhaust, engine sounds good, trans is good and it goes into 4hi and 4lo easily. But upon taking it onto the highway i found it had no balls over 2000 rpm and it really didnt want to go over 70 mph. Do you think the turbo is the problem?
It's possible. I would check the fuel pressure first. If the fuel pressure is good, check the exhaust manifold pressure sensor. It's under the degass bottle. They get sooted up and can cause the truck to have low power and lots of black smoke.
Wes Johnson will do. Thanks!
Is it possible for one or both of the large o rings on the turbo go bad and not have any codes showing ?
thanks for the video. i was having similar issues and one of silicone boot clamps worked loose. still want to do this though. got a 0299 and a couple more codes also. tightened it, cleared dct's, put 35 miles on it and no codes. still seems to be an issue sometimes with no boost from stop.
Could be stuck VGT vanes. You might also check the exhaust back pressure sensor. The tubes commonly clog with carbon.
@@WatchWesWork Thanks Wes. I have an issue with starting as well. I'm showing a control circuit failure in glow plug 3. would that be doing it? hell it's the middle of june. All filters are changed and i'm using archoil products in the fuel and oil.
@@steveboggs9025 the glow plugs cycle even when its 100 degrees out, and yes on a 6.0,even 1 bad glow plug makes it a hard starting pig, I worked for a school bus company that had 450 of these, I eat, sleep, and have nightmares about the 6.0l
How much to rebuild that turbo? And what cool air intake would you recommend bc the factory one is an eye sore to personally
How did u tighten the impeler shaft? Did u torque it or mark it before?
Where did you get the new Vans and Unison ring
THAT! Was interesting Wes. 👍👍
What kind of lubricant is that? Where can i find some
Thanks for a Great video.. do appreciate the share!..
Ebp sensor would of been your first issue. Vanes could be sticking though.
Do you have a link to the rebuild kit you used? Please
my truck recently has acquired a high pitch whistle coming from the turbo and when i unplug the vgt it stops but when i plug it back in it starts top make the high pitch whistle again. any ideas what it would be.
Did you balance it before installing the turbo?
How many miles/hours were on that engine? Diesel Tech Ron passed away not long ago.
240,000 miles. The turbo had a reman tag on it, so it must have been replaced before 140,000 miles when I bought the truck.
Yes, the 360° thrust bearing that came with the rebuild kit is better than the OE 270° thrust bearing.
Hey Bearing Boy! Gots a question fer ya. If you were to make a merry-go-round, which bearing would you use on the center spindle? (actually, it's for a tetrahedron that I'm going to make...fancy schmancy wind indicator) But, the merry-go-round is an easier way of asking. Thanks in advance.
I'd use plastic, possibly nylon. Weatherproof and low friction.
@@WatchWesWork It's going to be huge...like 15' long. Search for "Airport Tetrahedron" It will always be moving. Still think that's a good material? (I hope so, as I don't have any way to machine a hunk of steel) The forces won't be much on it, but it will always be moving. & Thank you!
@@WatchWesWork could you possibly add a link to which kit you bought?? Also how well did it hold up?? I know this is but inquiring minds want to know.
Good info, thanks.
Thumbs up 👍
Nice job
Excellent video. I have same issues, (P0299 low boost pressure and occasional black smoke with no power on acceleration and a little oil in passage under EGR), but ordered new turbo, but I'll rebuild old one.
Check your EBT sensor. It monitors exhaust pressure. Cleaning it can really help the black smoke issues. If it's dirty, you should also clean the EGR valve.
Thanks! I cleaned EGR valve, and while it was not heavily crusted with carbon, when i pushed it open, it stayed open. After cleaning it opened and closed ok. Still had occasional black smoke so i replaced EGR with new Motorcraft EGR. I'll clean EBT sensor while waiting for new turbo to arrive. The black smoke is only on acceleration, and only occasionally, maybe about 1 in 10 startups from stop. Truck has 165,000 miles and probably original turbo so the unison ring is probably binding. Interestingly, never had black smoke problem until I picked truck up from dealer after getting differential pinion seal replaced and had them change oil while it was there. I only drive truck a couple of times per month. 2007 F550
Do you miss this 6.0L powerstroke truck? @Watch Wes Work
Not really. Those engines are just a pain to keep running right.
@@WatchWesWork 7.3 is alot easier to Work on for sure more room yeah the 6.0L can be Finicky for sure
Where did you buy this rebuild kit?
rust or Hurricanes take your pick
Not all Florida Trucks. A lot of em are whipped underneath. Especially them Lox 4x4’s sheesh
....Clearance on that shaft....even the max allowed at .012"' seems pretty large....do you know what the 'factory' spec is...? That .030" would surely be a leaker.....
Nice video, I've never worked on a turbo, but do understand how they work...
I never could find a spec or even where to properly check it. It was suggested to check it through the oil hole, not at the end. That makes sense to me, but I can't find any real info for my turbo.
..I've worked on a variety of machines and motor vehicles, I'd guess a 'good' fit for pressurized oil in a sleeve like that might be .003-4"....? and possibly a variation accounting for heat expansion.....
Years ago, I had a friend that worked at Garrett, rebuilding turbos to factory spec's....it was actually in the 1970's....their stuff was always top quality.....but he seldom mentioned his work during off-hours...too busy with the Harleys at home....and, mostly all roller bearings in them....little oil pressure, but it has to be there all the time.....001" was a good fit....
Wes, you should never measure clearance on end of shaft. Your dial gauge reading is taken through drain hole in center housing. Customers ‘wiggle’ their compressor wheel all time & tell us that it’s excessive as they can’t lift shaft evenly with exhaust housing on. Let me know your thoughts.
Doesn't the turbo need to be balanced at speed?
No. All of the parts are independently balanced.
I've got 125k on my 2007 PS 6.0 F250 it's never been the the shop I cleaned the egr valve the other day it made it run like new again should I pull and clean my turbo?
No. But, you should probably clean your exhaust back pressure sensor. It's in the driver side exhaust manifold.
Can you show a pic oh it , the egr was really caked up but no lights has ever came on the dash but I want to learn how to maintain this 6.0 the right way it's my first diesel I've ever owned
What’s the torque on the bolts?
Shout-out to DieselTechRon. You never know which day my be your last 👌
Good over view. You mentioned rust belt .... I am in Dearborn near Detroit.
Yes. I'm in Northern Illinois. Road salt is the mechanic's worst enemy.
If ford would give us an extra inch of clearance. Guess they like removing the cab for everything. Removing the turbo and jamming it back in is like a puzzle.
Why would you want anti seize on the bolts for the compressor housing bolts? Especially the ones inside the housing
Which Turbo Rebuild Kit did you use?
A turbocharger rebuild kit
hey what's the tools you use to measure the shaft play
It's a dial indicator. Every mechanic needs one.
No balancing necessary?!
Theoretically. These are thrust tighten style. But always ask your local turbo guys.
Ugh...a 6.0. At least it isn't a 6.7. Does it have a DPF and EGR?
Yes, EGR. No DPF or DEF. That was on the 6.4 and 6.7.
You seem to be pretty uneducated
My 6.0 has not power and the guy I take it too said it leaked alot of oil.
Diese ltech ron was in Hemet California not Florida RIP
hi guy, today i am bored so I am rewatching this video :)
In aproximity 4.5 million miles I blue up one turbo , not good for the after cooler .
first AND second !!
don't use those aftermarket oil filters & cap
Why? They are made by Wix and I think they are pretty good filters.
@@WatchWesWork I don't know what filter you are using I just saw you had a non-oem cap..
@@WatchWesWork ruclips.net/video/lBq_1ogRul0/видео.html&frags=wn
He's just telling people not to put the OEM filter in the larger aftermarket cap. If you have two brain cells to rub together, that's not an issue.
@@WatchWesWork
Yes, but in reality it happens often. People don’t pay attention.
☕️👋⚖️
You need a high flow air filter
No, just no. Aftermarket air filters are known to "dust" 6.0 turbos.
I like YOUR vids very much-!- but please wes where some protection on your skin -!- the oils your using will get into your skin and can cause a blood disease