this is absilutelly great!!!!! Thanks for this veideo! so helpful! 3 questions: - can I do this as (a good) DIYer? or we need professionals? - Should the clips that hold the plasterboard be a sort of L-shape in order to create a gap between joists and plasterboard? - At what stage should I call my electrician for placing light point in the ceiling? also, drilling holes into the plasterboard, does make me lose soundproofing? Edited - you covered that last point just a few seconds after my question!!!! thanks! thanks, D
Hi @damidammi, great to heat that you've found the video helpful. Answers to your questions: 1. Yes, absolutely you can install the system as a competent DIYer. There is a detailed installation brochure which can be downloaded from here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings so please feel free to have a read through and see if you'd be happy installing the system. Any questions at all, please just call us (01423) 206208. We would however recommend to have someone else with you, as the materials are very heavy. 2.The ReductoClips create a gap between the joists and the plasterboard layers. The furring bars lock into place within the clips. This creates a decoupled structure to fix the acoustic plasterboard to. The combined thickness of the clip and furring channel is 25mm (the slimmest clip and bar system on the market).
Hi @stephenojkan, the ReductoClip Ceiling System can be used for nightclubs and music studios. You'd also need to soundproof the walls and floor. This page might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
As Bee Bee below says noise from above can be distracting. Or living in an apartment block the noise from above can really disturb your sleep. I have also noticed that sound can travel from different parts of the building. Even if the unit above is quiet at times. This can happen a lot in older buildings where there is little or no insulation, no carpets and cement floor may be covered with ceramic tiles or wood and the floors and ceilings are made of cement.. The sounds at times heavy thuds. And made with heavy deep bang thud with rolling. So knowing the costs and the materials and how they work is very helpful.
Hi @redbourdon1904, soundproofing works both ways. So soundproofing your wall, ceiling and/or floor helps reduce noise from your neighbours and also noise from you to your neighbours.
Thank you for the video and detailed explanation. You indicated installing a second ceiling without removing the existing ceiling is not the better option. However if the second ceiling is built using a 2 x 4 frame on the wall studs and is about an inch apart from the existing ceiling creating the air space then in effect isnt the second ceiling decoupled and should provide a better soundproofing?
Hi John Doe, to explain a little better, building a secondary ceiling below an existing ceiling will improve the sound reduction, my point is that it won't improve the sound reduction as much as it would doing the exact same thing but without the existing ceiling. The existing ceiling limits the result. The de-coupling isnt' the problem so doing another frame doesn't solve that problem, it's all about having three seprate leafs of mass in the build up instead of two. This complicates things because you have two air cavities fighting against each other instead of one. In regards to test results, We tested two ceilings one retaining the ceiling and building a secondary de-coupled ceiling below with two layers of acoustic plasterboard and mineral wool, this achieved 55dB (DnT,w+Ctr), we then did exactly the same but removed the existing ceiling first and this achieved 61dB (DnT,w+Ctr). So a 6dB improvement using the exact same materials in the exact same way but without the existing ceiling. However, the original ceiling with no soundproofing at all was 32dB (DnT,w+Ctr), so both options are still a big improvement. Hope that helps.
Hi Matt Valon, thank you for your question. This system drops the ceiling by 60mm as standard. It can be used on a concrete ceiling and is very effective, however I wouldn't recommend installing it direct to the concrete like this. It's best to fix timber battens onto the concrete first using concrete fixings, install acoustic mineral wool between the battens, then fix the ReductoClip system onto the battens. If using 50mm timber this will increase height loss to 110mm. Only thing to be careful of with concrete, often concrete buildings with concrete walls tying into concrete ceilings and floors often transfer sound down the walls too.
What's your suggestion then to effectively reduce the sound traveling down the wall? In buildings, the concrete ceiling is usually attached to walls. The space to decouple it ceiling and wall can not be done. Please guide.
I didn’t see any mention of vapour barrier, as this now looks like a cold roof construction there doesn’t seem to be any air flow with the insulation (or before). Am I correct?
Hi 877cms - There was no vapour barrier internally, there may have been an existing vapour barrier on the external side. There was air flow above the thermal insulation slabs of around 50mm, and the ReductoClip system itself creates a 25mm cavity between the insulation and ceiling layers for further air flow.
Hi @ahmedomri9256, it's worth checking if it's the plasterboard that isn't level, or (when you remove it) if it's the joists. This article might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-address-uneven-ceiling-joists
Hi Public Idiot Films, great to hear that you found it useful. (The ReductoClip System can also be used on the walls). Please feel free to call a member of our studio team on (01423) 206208 if we can help in any way. This might be useful: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
My Condominium complex has 400+ units built in 1957. Please please please all Soundproofing companies you need to target communities like us with advertisements every week. You will become billionaires I promise you.
Unrelated to the video but I have a question I was thinking: you see my townhouse contractors had put a thick slab of caulking on the EXTERIOR of my window frame; in hopes I would hear less traffic noise but that didn't work at all. In fact it seemed to be louder whenever the engines passes by. I wanna know if the caulking around a window would amplify traffic noises even more because of the layout? Or do I need an acoustic engineer to analyze it....?
Hi Me - There is no reason why caulking would amplify the noise problem in my opinion, but I wonder whether they have done something else while they were caulking, i.e take something else out to make space for caulking that was doing a better job than the caulk. Caulking the windows would only help if the noise problem was because there was gaps around the window letting sound in. But it's also very likely that the sound is just coming thorugh the winidow itself, in which case, caulk isn't going to do anything. You need to either upgrade to higher perfomring windows, or even better, install secondary glazing inside. Hope that helps.
Ive bought new windows - 5mm thickness but why is there still a "drum effect" from the traffic sound from outside my window? Would it be coming from the vinyl frames itself?
Hi @smellypunks, there are different regs for Scotland which differ to the England and Wales regs. This ReductoClip Ceiling System passes both. Full performance data can be found on the 'Performance Tab' of the below page if that's of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
What happens when you add the coving back? Will that bridge the wall to the ceiling after making the effort to leave a 5mm gap? Really good video by the way.
Thank you! So you can either install the coving by fixing it to the wall (not the ceiling), leaving a 5mm gap bewteen the top of the coving and the ceiling, which you then fill with acoustic sealant. Or adhere the coving using a flexible adhesive. Hope that helps.
Hi @joblo2671, great that you love the channel! Definitely the ReductoClip System. Your 'friend' won't be disappointed! (The top choice for all types of screams!) ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/huNDsYKLpqo/видео.html
Hi @excelonstage4790, great to hear you found the video useful. This link will take you to the online store: soundproofingstore.uk/product/prosound-reductoclip-system-for-ceilings/ This link has further information about the ReductoClip Timber Ceiling System: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings Should you need any further advice, or indeed a quote, please feel free to contact a member of the team on (01423) 206208.
I was wondering how the second plasterboard is attached to the first one? I guess it's just attached to the first plasterboard with the screws not touching the bar and the wooden structure right?
It's not attached to the first board, you screw through the first board and into the furring channel behind. All the boards must be fixed onto the furring channel as this is the part of the system that can securely hold the weight of the boards. So you use 25mm screws to fix the first layer and 50mm screws to fix the second layer.
Very good video! How would I go about protecting a non-load bearing wall from vibrations above? Is there some rubber bracket you can use to attach it to the ceiling?
Hi @GustafNilsson, great that you found it useful. Ideally soundproof the ceiling and then rebuild the stud wall. Alternatively, if not removing the existing stud wall when doing the ceiling then remove the plasterboard and insulate the cavity with acoustic mineral wool and use a direct to wall soundproofing panel such as SoundBoard 4. Without knowing the exact details, please feel free to call us (01423) 206208 so we can make sure we give you the correct advice and solution based on your exact situation. With regards to the stud wall, the below acoustic mineral wool and SoundBoard 4 videos might be useful: ruclips.net/video/FqG0F4In74c/видео.html ruclips.net/video/nkfVpoXEAiQ/видео.html
Hi @L33tw0rk, soundproofing works both ways, so yes, by soundproofing a ceiling it helps to block noise from above travelling to the room below and noise from below travelling to the room above. If you have access to the floor above, then an alternative solution might be to soundproof the floor. This video might be of interest: ruclips.net/video/VeeTMJfTfEc/видео.html
Hi @jlmayne8209, the ReductoClip Timber Ceiling System is a soundproofing solution in its entirety. Hence why it is tested once the full system has been installed.
Hello , I have an a small studio apartment (40 SQM) with impact noise from the apartment above mine. 50 cm / 20 inch gap between my ceiling dry wall and their floor. Currently, there is no sound insulation and I can hear all the foot steps from the guys upstairs. Sometimes I can’t sleep. Which of the 6 options do you recommend to be the most cost effective. Option 1: Without removing current plasterboard ceiling , install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board Option 2: Without removing current plasterboard ceiling , install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board + Sy100 Tecsound + 15 mm acoustic plaster board Option 3: Without removing current plasterboard ceiling , install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board + Green acoustic glue+ 15 mm acoustic plaster board Option 4: Remove current plasterboard ceiling , install Rockwall + install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board Option 5: Remove current plasterboard ceiling , install Rockwall + install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board + Sy100 Tecsound + 15 mm acoustic plaster board Option 6: Remove current plasterboard ceiling , install Rockwall + install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board + Green acoustic glue+ 15 mm acoustic plaster board Thank you
Hi @sami9586, would you be able to gain access to the floor above to treat the noise at the source? You could then use a flooring solution like the SoundMat 3 Plus: ruclips.net/video/S9ZhiDRTPds/видео.html Otherwise, the ReductoClip Ceiling Solution would be our recommendation (as per the above video): Remove existing ceiling to expose timber joists / Acoustic Mineral Wool / ReductoClips and ReductoClip Furring Channels, Acoustic Plasterboard (first layer) / FlexiSound 5 / Second layer of acoustic plasterboard: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
@@daneishere We don't keep a list of recommended installers. Just a general builder or joiner will have all the skills needed to follow our instructions and fit the system. How much is impossible to say as installers charge very different rates depending on location, experience, demand etc, best to speak to a few and get some day rates.
Hi @gypsey01 it's not worked out by clips per metre i'm afraid it's worked out on specific spacings. As detailed in the video the clips should be no more than 1200mm apart centre to centre along the furring channel (which would usually be every other or every third joist depndeing on your joist spacings), and no more than 400mm apart centre to centre bewteen the furring channels. If you're struggling to calculate what you need, you can email us your dimensions via the website (www.soundproofingstore.co.uk) and we can calculate it for you. Hope that helps.
Hi Paul, it depends what type of coving it is and how it's been fixed. We have successfully removed and replaced coving multiple times, but yes in most cases it will need replacing.
Hi @vickysalvi6716, the ReductoClip system achieved a brilliant result, with a 10-12dB reduction. When it comes to decibels, for every 10dB it actually equates to a halving of the noise. This is a huge difference in real world terms when comparing the level of noise being heard before the soundproofing and the level of noise being heard after the soundproofing. This halving of the noise means the system did in fact reduce the noise by a minimum of 50%.
this is absilutelly great!!!!!
Thanks for this veideo! so helpful!
3 questions:
- can I do this as (a good) DIYer? or we need professionals?
- Should the clips that hold the plasterboard be a sort of L-shape in order to create a gap between joists and plasterboard?
- At what stage should I call my electrician for placing light point in the ceiling? also, drilling holes into the plasterboard, does make me lose soundproofing?
Edited - you covered that last point just a few seconds after my question!!!! thanks!
thanks,
D
Hi @damidammi, great to heat that you've found the video helpful. Answers to your questions:
1. Yes, absolutely you can install the system as a competent DIYer. There is a detailed installation brochure which can be downloaded from here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings so please feel free to have a read through and see if you'd be happy installing the system. Any questions at all, please just call us (01423) 206208. We would however recommend to have someone else with you, as the materials are very heavy.
2.The ReductoClips create a gap between the joists and the plasterboard layers. The furring bars lock into place within the clips. This creates a decoupled structure to fix the acoustic plasterboard to. The combined thickness of the clip and furring channel is 25mm (the slimmest clip and bar system on the market).
Thank you for this video!! Noise from above can be so distracting. Knowing the project price with the owner contributing DIY was crucial, thanks!
best video on soundproofing ceilings! great work
Thnak you for the kind comment. Glad you found it helpful
How do you soundproof a night club ceiling/roof? The roof covering has been installed but there is no ceiling yet.
Hi @stephenojkan, the ReductoClip Ceiling System can be used for nightclubs and music studios. You'd also need to soundproof the walls and floor. This page might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
As Bee Bee below says noise from above can be distracting. Or living in an apartment block the noise from above can really disturb your sleep. I have also noticed that sound can travel from different parts of the building. Even if the unit above is quiet at times. This can happen a lot in older buildings where there is little or no insulation, no carpets and cement floor may be covered with ceramic tiles or wood and the floors and ceilings are made of cement.. The sounds at times heavy thuds. And made with heavy deep bang thud with rolling. So knowing the costs and the materials and how they work is very helpful.
This is so encouraging 😊thank you!
Glad you enjoyed the video!
I'm getting a parrot, can I block sound for the neighbors
Hi @redbourdon1904, soundproofing works both ways. So soundproofing your wall, ceiling and/or floor helps reduce noise from your neighbours and also noise from you to your neighbours.
Thank you for the video and detailed explanation. You indicated installing a second ceiling without removing the existing ceiling is not the better option. However if the second ceiling is built using a 2 x 4 frame on the wall studs and is about an inch apart from the existing ceiling creating the air space then in effect isnt the second ceiling decoupled and should provide a better soundproofing?
Hi John Doe, to explain a little better, building a secondary ceiling below an existing ceiling will improve the sound reduction, my point is that it won't improve the sound reduction as much as it would doing the exact same thing but without the existing ceiling. The existing ceiling limits the result. The de-coupling isnt' the problem so doing another frame doesn't solve that problem, it's all about having three seprate leafs of mass in the build up instead of two. This complicates things because you have two air cavities fighting against each other instead of one. In regards to test results, We tested two ceilings one retaining the ceiling and building a secondary de-coupled ceiling below with two layers of acoustic plasterboard and mineral wool, this achieved 55dB (DnT,w+Ctr), we then did exactly the same but removed the existing ceiling first and this achieved 61dB (DnT,w+Ctr). So a 6dB improvement using the exact same materials in the exact same way but without the existing ceiling. However, the original ceiling with no soundproofing at all was 32dB (DnT,w+Ctr), so both options are still a big improvement. Hope that helps.
How well does this work on concrete ceilings? And how much lower will the ceiling become? 3 centimeters? 5? 7?.
Hi Matt Valon, thank you for your question. This system drops the ceiling by 60mm as standard. It can be used on a concrete ceiling and is very effective, however I wouldn't recommend installing it direct to the concrete like this. It's best to fix timber battens onto the concrete first using concrete fixings, install acoustic mineral wool between the battens, then fix the ReductoClip system onto the battens. If using 50mm timber this will increase height loss to 110mm. Only thing to be careful of with concrete, often concrete buildings with concrete walls tying into concrete ceilings and floors often transfer sound down the walls too.
Thank you
What's your suggestion then to effectively reduce the sound traveling down the wall? In buildings, the concrete ceiling is usually attached to walls. The space to decouple it ceiling and wall can not be done. Please guide.
I didn’t see any mention of vapour barrier, as this now looks like a cold roof construction there doesn’t seem to be any air flow with the insulation (or before). Am I correct?
Hi 877cms - There was no vapour barrier internally, there may have been an existing vapour barrier on the external side. There was air flow above the thermal insulation slabs of around 50mm, and the ReductoClip system itself creates a 25mm cavity between the insulation and ceiling layers for further air flow.
Hi @ahmedomri9256, it's worth checking if it's the plasterboard that isn't level, or (when you remove it) if it's the joists. This article might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-address-uneven-ceiling-joists
Great stuff, planning on converting my garage into a music practice room, so may well look at that system for the ceiling in there.
Hi Public Idiot Films, great to hear that you found it useful. (The ReductoClip System can also be used on the walls). Please feel free to call a member of our studio team on (01423) 206208 if we can help in any way.
This might be useful: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
My Condominium complex has 400+ units built in 1957. Please please please all Soundproofing companies you need to target communities like us with advertisements every week. You will become billionaires I promise you.
3:10 and 27:58 , the result is not too bad.
Hi @joeq5624, absolutely. The 10-12dB reduction is a huge improvement.
Unrelated to the video but I have a question I was thinking: you see my townhouse contractors had put a thick slab of caulking on the EXTERIOR of my window frame; in hopes I would hear less traffic noise but that didn't work at all. In fact it seemed to be louder whenever the engines passes by. I wanna know if the caulking around a window would amplify traffic noises even more because of the layout? Or do I need an acoustic engineer to analyze it....?
Hi Me - There is no reason why caulking would amplify the noise problem in my opinion, but I wonder whether they have done something else while they were caulking, i.e take something else out to make space for caulking that was doing a better job than the caulk. Caulking the windows would only help if the noise problem was because there was gaps around the window letting sound in. But it's also very likely that the sound is just coming thorugh the winidow itself, in which case, caulk isn't going to do anything. You need to either upgrade to higher perfomring windows, or even better, install secondary glazing inside. Hope that helps.
Ive bought new windows - 5mm thickness but why is there still a "drum effect" from the traffic sound from outside my window? Would it be coming from the vinyl frames itself?
Hi @miniioe, the recommendation would be to use secondary glazing. This would be something you'd need to discuss with your glazing company.
That does not look like enough insulation to meet regs. Guessing there was not space to add thicker insulation.
Hi @smellypunks, there are different regs for Scotland which differ to the England and Wales regs. This ReductoClip Ceiling System passes both. Full performance data can be found on the 'Performance Tab' of the below page if that's of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
What happens when you add the coving back? Will that bridge the wall to the ceiling after making the effort to leave a 5mm gap? Really good video by the way.
Thank you! So you can either install the coving by fixing it to the wall (not the ceiling), leaving a 5mm gap bewteen the top of the coving and the ceiling, which you then fill with acoustic sealant. Or adhere the coving using a flexible adhesive. Hope that helps.
Hi! Love the Channel! Can you tell me what is the top choice of materials to better muffle the screams of my victims?
(asking for a friend)
Hi @joblo2671, great that you love the channel! Definitely the ReductoClip System. Your 'friend' won't be disappointed! (The top choice for all types of screams!)
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/huNDsYKLpqo/видео.html
I find this video really helpful
Please do you have any link of a shop i can window shop to see the prices of materials. Thanks
Hi @excelonstage4790, great to hear you found the video useful.
This link will take you to the online store: soundproofingstore.uk/product/prosound-reductoclip-system-for-ceilings/
This link has further information about the ReductoClip Timber Ceiling System: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
Should you need any further advice, or indeed a quote, please feel free to contact a member of the team on (01423) 206208.
I was wondering how the second plasterboard is attached to the first one? I guess it's just attached to the first plasterboard with the screws not touching the bar and the wooden structure right?
It's not attached to the first board, you screw through the first board and into the furring channel behind. All the boards must be fixed onto the furring channel as this is the part of the system that can securely hold the weight of the boards. So you use 25mm screws to fix the first layer and 50mm screws to fix the second layer.
Very good video!
How would I go about protecting a non-load bearing wall from vibrations above? Is there some rubber bracket you can use to attach it to the ceiling?
Hi @GustafNilsson, great that you found it useful.
Ideally soundproof the ceiling and then rebuild the stud wall. Alternatively, if not removing the existing stud wall when doing the ceiling then remove the plasterboard and insulate the cavity with acoustic mineral wool and use a direct to wall soundproofing panel such as SoundBoard 4. Without knowing the exact details, please feel free to call us (01423) 206208 so we can make sure we give you the correct advice and solution based on your exact situation. With regards to the stud wall, the below acoustic mineral wool and SoundBoard 4 videos might be useful:
ruclips.net/video/FqG0F4In74c/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/nkfVpoXEAiQ/видео.html
Does this system work to stop sound from the room below to propagate to the room above?
Hi @L33tw0rk, soundproofing works both ways, so yes, by soundproofing a ceiling it helps to block noise from above travelling to the room below and noise from below travelling to the room above.
If you have access to the floor above, then an alternative solution might be to soundproof the floor. This video might be of interest:
ruclips.net/video/VeeTMJfTfEc/видео.html
Wish you would have shown the reduction in decibels at each step.
Hi @jlmayne8209, the ReductoClip Timber Ceiling System is a soundproofing solution in its entirety. Hence why it is tested once the full system has been installed.
What if the ceiling is not level ?
Hello ,
I have an a small studio apartment (40 SQM) with impact noise from the apartment above mine. 50 cm / 20 inch gap between my ceiling dry wall and their floor. Currently, there is no sound insulation and I can hear all the foot steps from the guys upstairs. Sometimes I can’t sleep. Which of the 6 options do you recommend to be the most cost effective.
Option 1: Without removing current plasterboard ceiling , install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board
Option 2: Without removing current plasterboard ceiling , install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board + Sy100 Tecsound + 15 mm acoustic plaster board
Option 3: Without removing current plasterboard ceiling , install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board + Green acoustic glue+ 15 mm acoustic plaster board
Option 4: Remove current plasterboard ceiling , install Rockwall + install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board
Option 5: Remove current plasterboard ceiling , install Rockwall + install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board + Sy100 Tecsound + 15 mm acoustic plaster board
Option 6: Remove current plasterboard ceiling , install Rockwall + install Reducto clips + resilient channel + 15 mm acoustic plaster board + Green acoustic glue+ 15 mm acoustic plaster board
Thank you
Hi @sami9586, would you be able to gain access to the floor above to treat the noise at the source? You could then use a flooring solution like the SoundMat 3 Plus: ruclips.net/video/S9ZhiDRTPds/видео.html
Otherwise, the ReductoClip Ceiling Solution would be our recommendation (as per the above video): Remove existing ceiling to expose timber joists / Acoustic Mineral Wool / ReductoClips and ReductoClip Furring Channels, Acoustic Plasterboard (first layer) / FlexiSound 5 / Second layer of acoustic plasterboard:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you very much for you advice. I have cork rolls 5mm and 8mm. Can cork be a suitable replacement for "FlexiSound 5"? Thanks
Hi @@sami9586 unfortunately not, as cork won't add anywhere near the same amount of mass as FlexiSound.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you very much for your kind advice
@@sami9586 it's a pleasure. If we can be of any further help, please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 or at sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk
1100 pounds for all that is quite reasonable I was expecting way more
People do assume soundproofing will be much more expensive than it often is. Hopefully this makes it more accessible to people.
How much would it cost to install? And do you recommend any installers in London?
@@daneishere We don't keep a list of recommended installers. Just a general builder or joiner will have all the skills needed to follow our instructions and fit the system. How much is impossible to say as installers charge very different rates depending on location, experience, demand etc, best to speak to a few and get some day rates.
How many clips per metre
Hi @gypsey01 it's not worked out by clips per metre i'm afraid it's worked out on specific spacings. As detailed in the video the clips should be no more than 1200mm apart centre to centre along the furring channel (which would usually be every other or every third joist depndeing on your joist spacings), and no more than 400mm apart centre to centre bewteen the furring channels. If you're struggling to calculate what you need, you can email us your dimensions via the website (www.soundproofingstore.co.uk) and we can calculate it for you. Hope that helps.
you will never ever get the coving of and replace with the same coving.
Hi Paul, it depends what type of coving it is and how it's been fixed. We have successfully removed and replaced coving multiple times, but yes in most cases it will need replacing.
@@SoundproofingStore 37 years experience says if time and cost matters just smash it off and replace with new.
@@paulwatson1521 haha. can't disagree with that Paul. Thats absolutely fair enough!
Do you ship to USA?
@Tim_Gravy unfortunately we don't supply to USA at this time.
I wish sound could have been reduced to at least 50 %
Hi @vickysalvi6716, the ReductoClip system achieved a brilliant result, with a 10-12dB reduction. When it comes to decibels, for every 10dB it actually equates to a halving of the noise. This is a huge difference in real world terms when comparing the level of noise being heard before the soundproofing and the level of noise being heard after the soundproofing. This halving of the noise means the system did in fact reduce the noise by a minimum of 50%.