Oh wow, just 10 days ago. I love ceiling 6. That was my rough idea already if I get into a noise neighbor situation. You are the real deal, Jim. I'll bring you over to the Netherlands one day.
Excellent video Jim. We applied some of the bits in this to our loft conversion and it's a game changer. Your training course was outstanding and I'll definitely be using the same techniques when we do other rooms. To others reading this, Jim's Quietco course was worth every Penny!
Fantastic video. I was wondering if there is such a thing as an acoustic joist hanger? Or could you use a standard joist hanger with some 20mm rubber either behind the joist hanger or in the bed of the joist hanger (under the timber), instead of using the 'timber wall plate plus 20mm rubber' that you use in the secondary ceiling options in this video?
Hi Steve, yes there are acoustic joists hangers and I did not include them in the video. They are different to the joists hangers you get at the builders merchants here in the UK. But yes, I think you could use the 20mm rubber behind them and under the joists as well, that will give some better isolation then just timber. We have done that before on a couple of road traffic noise projects. I have not done it instead of using the wall plate though, we have always used a wall plate. Are you potentially doing that to save space Steve? Thanks very much for your question, glad you got some value from the video🙏
Hi Jim, it’s an Edwardian solid wall house (converted to two flats). The ground floor flat already has all the external walls studded out (rockwool, vapour barrier, 18mm ply, 12.5mm plasterboard, skim). The ceiling is 170mm deep with rockwool, then 11mm osb and 2 sheets of plasterboard. The floor above has carpet, 18mm rubber acoustic matting, 22mm chipboard, 6mm fibreboard, all on top of the original floorboards. So not a bad effort already but the room above is 5mx5m and the footfall is still pretty obvious below, I imagine the original joists have too much bounce in them. Anyway long story short is that I fancy putting a second ceiling in and as I have the 18mm ply in all the walls I reckoned joist hangers with minimum 4 screw fixing per hanger and rubber behind and in the bed of the joist hanger would give a stronger set up and more isolation than the timber wall plate. I might be over thinking it but just felt like it would give better isolation, or more points for vibrations to dissipate than a continuous timber wall plate would. What do you think? Cheers Steve
Hi @oluwam01, Paid for: The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course 🪚 🔨 jimprior.com/diycourse/ Free course: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/ Work With ME 👉 jimprior.com/work-with-me/
Really informative video, thank you. When soundproofing a (timber joist) ceiling in a house, would it be best to remove the existing 9mm plasterboard or pull it down and then put MLV & 15mm baord in its place? Access is also possible from above to fill the void with rockwool. My thoughts are such that it would be useful to have the additional 9mm + plaster skim as addiitonal mass.
Hi @JOHJacobHarris, hope you found it useful, it’s just what we have found soundproofing 1000s of properties. If you are not installing any resilient layers then yes leave the 9mm board in place and insulate from above if you are sure you can get to every area. Then install the 15mm sound bloc over the top of the 9mm ceiling board….you might find it easier installing the MLV or TecSound to the back of the 15mm board before positioning it on the ceiling. Is this to reduce a bit of room to room transfer of airborne noise? Let’s us know how you get on.👍
@@jimprior7 yes - I'm trying to reduce the airboure noise trasnfer. I'm starting off with a stud wall first (using resilient channel & MLV) so will be a little while until I reach the ceiling project
Oh wow, just 10 days ago. I love ceiling 6. That was my rough idea already if I get into a noise neighbor situation. You are the real deal, Jim. I'll bring you over to the Netherlands one day.
Excellent video Jim. We applied some of the bits in this to our loft conversion and it's a game changer. Your training course was outstanding and I'll definitely be using the same techniques when we do other rooms.
To others reading this, Jim's Quietco course was worth every Penny!
Great video. Those DBx boards look great.
Fantastic video. I was wondering if there is such a thing as an acoustic joist hanger? Or could you use a standard joist hanger with some 20mm rubber either behind the joist hanger or in the bed of the joist hanger (under the timber), instead of using the 'timber wall plate plus 20mm rubber' that you use in the secondary ceiling options in this video?
Hi Steve, yes there are acoustic joists hangers and I did not include them in the video. They are different to the joists hangers you get at the builders merchants here in the UK.
But yes, I think you could use the 20mm rubber behind them and under the joists as well, that will give some better isolation then just timber. We have done that before on a couple of road traffic noise projects. I have not done it instead of using the wall plate though, we have always used a wall plate. Are you potentially doing that to save space Steve?
Thanks very much for your question, glad you got some value from the video🙏
Hi Jim, it’s an Edwardian solid wall house (converted to two flats). The ground floor flat already has all the external walls studded out (rockwool, vapour barrier, 18mm ply, 12.5mm plasterboard, skim). The ceiling is 170mm deep with rockwool, then 11mm osb and 2 sheets of plasterboard. The floor above has carpet, 18mm rubber acoustic matting, 22mm chipboard, 6mm fibreboard, all on top of the original floorboards. So not a bad effort already but the room above is 5mx5m and the footfall is still pretty obvious below, I imagine the original joists have too much bounce in them. Anyway long story short is that I fancy putting a second ceiling in and as I have the 18mm ply in all the walls I reckoned joist hangers with minimum 4 screw fixing per hanger and rubber behind and in the bed of the joist hanger would give a stronger set up and more isolation than the timber wall plate. I might be over thinking it but just felt like it would give better isolation, or more points for vibrations to dissipate than a continuous timber wall plate would. What do you think? Cheers Steve
great video. From Canada and we use imperial. Still it took awhile for me to realize 2be2. Is 2 by 2.
PLEASE LET US KNOW WHEN EVER YOU DOING A FREE COURSE OR PAID COURSE... THANKS FOR THE VIDEO ABOVE😊
Hi @oluwam01,
Paid for: The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course
🪚 🔨 jimprior.com/diycourse/
Free course: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
Work With ME
👉 jimprior.com/work-with-me/
Really informative video, thank you. When soundproofing a (timber joist) ceiling in a house, would it be best to remove the existing 9mm plasterboard or pull it down and then put MLV & 15mm baord in its place?
Access is also possible from above to fill the void with rockwool.
My thoughts are such that it would be useful to have the additional 9mm + plaster skim as addiitonal mass.
Hi @JOHJacobHarris, hope you found it useful, it’s just what we have found soundproofing 1000s of properties. If you are not installing any resilient layers then yes leave the 9mm board in place and insulate from above if you are sure you can get to every area.
Then install the 15mm sound bloc over the top of the 9mm ceiling board….you might find it easier installing the MLV or TecSound to the back of the 15mm board before positioning it on the ceiling.
Is this to reduce a bit of room to room transfer of airborne noise?
Let’s us know how you get on.👍
@@jimprior7 yes - I'm trying to reduce the airboure noise trasnfer. I'm starting off with a stud wall first (using resilient channel & MLV) so will be a little while until I reach the ceiling project
Is there a reason for the make-up ?
L I K E 👍👍👍👍👍❣ 💯❣💯 ❣🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
A written summary would be very useful