Oh wow, just 10 days ago. I love ceiling 6. That was my rough idea already if I get into a noise neighbor situation. You are the real deal, Jim. I'll bring you over to the Netherlands one day.
Excellent video Jim. We applied some of the bits in this to our loft conversion and it's a game changer. Your training course was outstanding and I'll definitely be using the same techniques when we do other rooms. To others reading this, Jim's Quietco course was worth every Penny!
Hi Jim, it's good to see someone have such informative videos based on UK properties, so mamy that I see or read about are in the states. Im looking for some advice, i'm going to be turning my attached garage into a music room/workshop. I don't want the noise that i'll be making, affect what times I can work in there and parctice my nusic (drumming + djing) What method would you suggest for soundproofing a cold flat roof, in terms of vapour control and minimising any moisture/ventilation issues. Also, what are you thoughts on treating the singe skin block external walls regarding vapour control. Finally, with the soundproof diy course, is this a 'zoom' style course or is it more in depth, detailed viseos and information? Thank you, James
Hi James, Thanks very much for your kind words, I love doing a good drum room, especially a garage conversion when a lot of the mass is already there. Have you seen this old video: ruclips.net/video/biFdhNHJq8E/видео.html After watching that video: Do you have the height in the garage? On a single brick construction to play whenever you want, you will need the floating room within a room. For this you will need 200mm space loss from the underside of the flat roof ceiling joists, 175mm off the walls and 75mm off the highest point of the floor (assuming the garage floor is sloping towards the door) Vapour control for the walls is achieved with the initial sound deadening of the walls, and two other membranes within the walls that interlock with the ceiling soundproofing. The flat roof we have designed a roofing system with help from the NFRC that does not channels the noise into you neighbours house and has a 0% condensation risk assessment. You may need consultation advice as this IP is not something I give out on social media. Renovation advice virtual soundproofing consultation: ruclips.net/video/q5CjspYn5O88/видео.html You may also need 1-2hrs installation support for you and your builder. Check this out: Installation support: ruclips.net/video/1BGKQ6tpgxw/видео.html Work With ME 👉 jimprior.com/work-with-me/ The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course is a lot of videos that you can work through at your own pace to fully understand the 4 step soundproofing method. The quickest we had a DIYer go through the course properly was about 2 weeks. (Some still jump straight to the walls, ceiling and floor systems) it is a mixture of practical and theory lesson that goes into a lot of detail on how to install the different layers of the different systems. Whether you want to install our tried and tested systems installed in 1000s of homes or want to try something different….the course will show how professional installers install different sound insulation. The course is full of useful tools from materials calculation tools to check list for your plumbers and electricians and much much more. It will be extremely useful for you converting your garage….but you may need detailed consultation as well on things like doors, ventilation and fixtures you may have specific to your garage. Register for the course here and we will send you more details: jimprior.com/diycourse/ Thanks very much for your questions.
Hi Jim, thanks for replying. Yes I have seen the drumming room video, it's been very helpful, although my garage is of a different construction with it being on the side of the house. There is plenty of room height wise. Thanks for the help and pointing me in the right direction, I'll be in touch regarding a consultation. James.
how do you know your ceiling joists are strong enough for mass loaded vinyl? these timber joists are between mine and another flat. their kitchen is above our bedroom.
Oh wow, do you hear a lot of impact noises from their kitchen above? If so Mass Loaded Vinyl will not do anything on its own and not much for impact noises. Maybe consider using it in combination with other soundproofing materials. With regards to the load bearing, the different Mass Loaded Vinyls come with different densities. For example we often use the 5kg/m2 version. Most ceilings should be able to take an extra 5kg/m2…however if you are unsure, like I say in the video, please get a structural surveyor to check your ceiling joists. Sorry I could not be more helpful, I would need to see the joists and ceiling construction to answer the question fully. Thanks for your comment.
Fantastic video. I was wondering if there is such a thing as an acoustic joist hanger? Or could you use a standard joist hanger with some 20mm rubber either behind the joist hanger or in the bed of the joist hanger (under the timber), instead of using the 'timber wall plate plus 20mm rubber' that you use in the secondary ceiling options in this video?
Hi Steve, yes there are acoustic joists hangers and I did not include them in the video. They are different to the joists hangers you get at the builders merchants here in the UK. But yes, I think you could use the 20mm rubber behind them and under the joists as well, that will give some better isolation then just timber. We have done that before on a couple of road traffic noise projects. I have not done it instead of using the wall plate though, we have always used a wall plate. Are you potentially doing that to save space Steve? Thanks very much for your question, glad you got some value from the video🙏
Hi Jim, it’s an Edwardian solid wall house (converted to two flats). The ground floor flat already has all the external walls studded out (rockwool, vapour barrier, 18mm ply, 12.5mm plasterboard, skim). The ceiling is 170mm deep with rockwool, then 11mm osb and 2 sheets of plasterboard. The floor above has carpet, 18mm rubber acoustic matting, 22mm chipboard, 6mm fibreboard, all on top of the original floorboards. So not a bad effort already but the room above is 5mx5m and the footfall is still pretty obvious below, I imagine the original joists have too much bounce in them. Anyway long story short is that I fancy putting a second ceiling in and as I have the 18mm ply in all the walls I reckoned joist hangers with minimum 4 screw fixing per hanger and rubber behind and in the bed of the joist hanger would give a stronger set up and more isolation than the timber wall plate. I might be over thinking it but just felt like it would give better isolation, or more points for vibrations to dissipate than a continuous timber wall plate would. What do you think? Cheers Steve
@@SuperSteve239 hey Steve, yes that makes sense to why you are still getting a bit of impact noise through….you need a resilient layer below the joists and a resilient layer on top of the joist. Sometimes it does not matter how many layers you put on…unless you have that resilient layer that impact noise will still come through. With your joist hanger solution, the new Joists will be decoupled and isolated from the ceiling. So as long as you don’t hear the impact noise down the walls that should get you a good result.
Hi Jim, really appreciate your advice. One more question before I crack on. I have a lot of 11mm osb 8x4 sheets leftover from another job. I was thinking of putting these on the bottom of the new joists before the resilient bars to give some extra strength and rather than using noggins, so that my rockwool in between the joists can be more seamless. The only thing I’m concerned about is whether the osb surface, being more reflective, might actually become a sort of drum skin for sounds and amplify them. Any thoughts? Cheers Steve
@ No no no! don’t do that Steve! The OSB will not offer much sound attenuation. What you are suggesting will compromise the resilient bars and cause the drum effect. I’m not sure where you could use the OSB board in a room with a noise problem, a developer I’m working with has just spent tens of thousands of pounds isolating his apartment walls from his OSB structurally insulated panels (sips) Trust the process and systems that we have tried and tested in 1000s of homes. The resilient bars seem flimsy at first sight, but after you secure that first acoustic board you will see how solid that ceiling is. We use the high quality ones from Travis Perkins. The RW3 and the resilient bars will be your noggins and the 2 x layers of 15mm will offer more structural support than your average ceiling. Let me know if you need consultation on your project: Installation support: ruclips.net/video/1BGKQ6tpgxw/видео.html Developer consultation video: ruclips.net/video/p2Vm9TnV8q4/видео.html
Really informative video, thank you. When soundproofing a (timber joist) ceiling in a house, would it be best to remove the existing 9mm plasterboard or pull it down and then put MLV & 15mm baord in its place? Access is also possible from above to fill the void with rockwool. My thoughts are such that it would be useful to have the additional 9mm + plaster skim as addiitonal mass.
Hi @JOHJacobHarris, hope you found it useful, it’s just what we have found soundproofing 1000s of properties. If you are not installing any resilient layers then yes leave the 9mm board in place and insulate from above if you are sure you can get to every area. Then install the 15mm sound bloc over the top of the 9mm ceiling board….you might find it easier installing the MLV or TecSound to the back of the 15mm board before positioning it on the ceiling. Is this to reduce a bit of room to room transfer of airborne noise? Let’s us know how you get on.👍
@@jimprior7 yes - I'm trying to reduce the airboure noise trasnfer. I'm starting off with a stud wall first (using resilient channel & MLV) so will be a little while until I reach the ceiling project
@@jimprior7 can you install resilient layers onto an existing ceiling without removing the board and plaster? will the weight of the new materials be ok?
Hi @oluwam01, Paid for: The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course 🪚 🔨 jimprior.com/diycourse/ Free course: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/ Work With ME 👉 jimprior.com/work-with-me/
Oh wow, just 10 days ago. I love ceiling 6. That was my rough idea already if I get into a noise neighbor situation. You are the real deal, Jim. I'll bring you over to the Netherlands one day.
Excellent video Jim. We applied some of the bits in this to our loft conversion and it's a game changer. Your training course was outstanding and I'll definitely be using the same techniques when we do other rooms.
To others reading this, Jim's Quietco course was worth every Penny!
Hi Jim, it's good to see someone have such informative videos based on UK properties, so mamy that I see or read about are in the states.
Im looking for some advice, i'm going to be turning my attached garage into a music room/workshop. I don't want the noise that i'll be making, affect what times I can work in there and parctice my nusic (drumming + djing) What method would you suggest for soundproofing a cold flat roof, in terms of vapour control and minimising any moisture/ventilation issues.
Also, what are you thoughts on treating the singe skin block external walls regarding vapour control.
Finally, with the soundproof diy course, is this a 'zoom' style course or is it more in depth, detailed viseos and information?
Thank you, James
Hi James,
Thanks very much for your kind words, I love doing a good drum room, especially a garage conversion when a lot of the mass is already there.
Have you seen this old video:
ruclips.net/video/biFdhNHJq8E/видео.html
After watching that video: Do you have the height in the garage?
On a single brick construction to play whenever you want, you will need the floating room within a room. For this you will need 200mm space loss from the underside of the flat roof ceiling joists, 175mm off the walls and 75mm off the highest point of the floor (assuming the garage floor is sloping towards the door) Vapour control for the walls is achieved with the initial sound deadening of the walls, and two other membranes within the walls that interlock with the ceiling soundproofing.
The flat roof we have designed a roofing system with help from the NFRC that does not channels the noise into you neighbours house and has a 0% condensation risk assessment.
You may need consultation advice as this IP is not something I give out on social media.
Renovation advice virtual soundproofing consultation: ruclips.net/video/q5CjspYn5O88/видео.html
You may also need 1-2hrs installation support for you and your builder. Check this out:
Installation support: ruclips.net/video/1BGKQ6tpgxw/видео.html
Work With ME
👉 jimprior.com/work-with-me/
The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course is a lot of videos that you can work through at your own pace to fully understand the 4 step soundproofing method. The quickest we had a DIYer go through the course properly was about 2 weeks. (Some still jump straight to the walls, ceiling and floor systems) it is a mixture of practical and theory lesson that goes into a lot of detail on how to install the different layers of the different systems.
Whether you want to install our tried and tested systems installed in 1000s of homes or want to try something different….the course will show how professional installers install different sound insulation. The course is full of useful tools from materials calculation tools to check list for your plumbers and electricians and much much more. It will be extremely useful for you converting your garage….but you may need detailed consultation as well on things like doors, ventilation and fixtures you may have specific to your garage.
Register for the course here and we will send you more details:
jimprior.com/diycourse/
Thanks very much for your questions.
Hi Jim, thanks for replying.
Yes I have seen the drumming room video, it's been very helpful, although my garage is of a different construction with it being on the side of the house. There is plenty of room height wise.
Thanks for the help and pointing me in the right direction, I'll be in touch regarding a consultation.
James.
how do you know your ceiling joists are strong enough for mass loaded vinyl? these timber joists are between mine and another flat. their kitchen is above our bedroom.
Oh wow, do you hear a lot of impact noises from their kitchen above?
If so Mass Loaded Vinyl will not do anything on its own and not much for impact noises. Maybe consider using it in combination with other soundproofing materials.
With regards to the load bearing, the different Mass Loaded Vinyls come with different densities. For example we often use the 5kg/m2 version. Most ceilings should be able to take an extra 5kg/m2…however if you are unsure, like I say in the video, please get a structural surveyor to check your ceiling joists.
Sorry I could not be more helpful, I would need to see the joists and ceiling construction to answer the question fully.
Thanks for your comment.
Great video. Those DBx boards look great.
Fantastic video. I was wondering if there is such a thing as an acoustic joist hanger? Or could you use a standard joist hanger with some 20mm rubber either behind the joist hanger or in the bed of the joist hanger (under the timber), instead of using the 'timber wall plate plus 20mm rubber' that you use in the secondary ceiling options in this video?
Hi Steve, yes there are acoustic joists hangers and I did not include them in the video. They are different to the joists hangers you get at the builders merchants here in the UK.
But yes, I think you could use the 20mm rubber behind them and under the joists as well, that will give some better isolation then just timber. We have done that before on a couple of road traffic noise projects. I have not done it instead of using the wall plate though, we have always used a wall plate. Are you potentially doing that to save space Steve?
Thanks very much for your question, glad you got some value from the video🙏
Hi Jim, it’s an Edwardian solid wall house (converted to two flats). The ground floor flat already has all the external walls studded out (rockwool, vapour barrier, 18mm ply, 12.5mm plasterboard, skim). The ceiling is 170mm deep with rockwool, then 11mm osb and 2 sheets of plasterboard. The floor above has carpet, 18mm rubber acoustic matting, 22mm chipboard, 6mm fibreboard, all on top of the original floorboards. So not a bad effort already but the room above is 5mx5m and the footfall is still pretty obvious below, I imagine the original joists have too much bounce in them. Anyway long story short is that I fancy putting a second ceiling in and as I have the 18mm ply in all the walls I reckoned joist hangers with minimum 4 screw fixing per hanger and rubber behind and in the bed of the joist hanger would give a stronger set up and more isolation than the timber wall plate. I might be over thinking it but just felt like it would give better isolation, or more points for vibrations to dissipate than a continuous timber wall plate would. What do you think? Cheers Steve
@@SuperSteve239 hey Steve, yes that makes sense to why you are still getting a bit of impact noise through….you need a resilient layer below the joists and a resilient layer on top of the joist. Sometimes it does not matter how many layers you put on…unless you have that resilient layer that impact noise will still come through.
With your joist hanger solution, the new
Joists will be decoupled and isolated from the ceiling. So as long as you don’t hear the impact noise down the walls that should get you a good result.
Hi Jim, really appreciate your advice. One more question before I crack on. I have a lot of 11mm osb 8x4 sheets leftover from another job. I was thinking of putting these on the bottom of the new joists before the resilient bars to give some extra strength and rather than using noggins, so that my rockwool in between the joists can be more seamless. The only thing I’m concerned about is whether the osb surface, being more reflective, might actually become a sort of drum skin for sounds and amplify them. Any thoughts? Cheers Steve
@ No no no! don’t do that Steve! The OSB will not offer much sound attenuation.
What you are suggesting will compromise the resilient bars and cause the drum effect.
I’m not sure where you could use the OSB board in a room with a noise problem, a developer I’m working with has just spent tens of thousands of pounds isolating his apartment walls from his OSB structurally insulated panels (sips)
Trust the process and systems that we have tried and tested in 1000s of homes.
The resilient bars seem flimsy at first sight, but after you secure that first acoustic board you will see how solid that ceiling is. We use the high quality ones from Travis Perkins.
The RW3 and the resilient bars will be your noggins and the 2 x layers of 15mm will offer more structural support than your average ceiling.
Let me know if you need consultation on your project:
Installation support: ruclips.net/video/1BGKQ6tpgxw/видео.html
Developer consultation video: ruclips.net/video/p2Vm9TnV8q4/видео.html
Really informative video, thank you. When soundproofing a (timber joist) ceiling in a house, would it be best to remove the existing 9mm plasterboard or pull it down and then put MLV & 15mm baord in its place?
Access is also possible from above to fill the void with rockwool.
My thoughts are such that it would be useful to have the additional 9mm + plaster skim as addiitonal mass.
Hi @JOHJacobHarris, hope you found it useful, it’s just what we have found soundproofing 1000s of properties. If you are not installing any resilient layers then yes leave the 9mm board in place and insulate from above if you are sure you can get to every area.
Then install the 15mm sound bloc over the top of the 9mm ceiling board….you might find it easier installing the MLV or TecSound to the back of the 15mm board before positioning it on the ceiling.
Is this to reduce a bit of room to room transfer of airborne noise?
Let’s us know how you get on.👍
@@jimprior7 yes - I'm trying to reduce the airboure noise trasnfer. I'm starting off with a stud wall first (using resilient channel & MLV) so will be a little while until I reach the ceiling project
@@jimprior7 can you install resilient layers onto an existing ceiling without removing the board and plaster? will the weight of the new materials be ok?
great video. From Canada and we use imperial. Still it took awhile for me to realize 2be2. Is 2 by 2.
PLEASE LET US KNOW WHEN EVER YOU DOING A FREE COURSE OR PAID COURSE... THANKS FOR THE VIDEO ABOVE😊
Hi @oluwam01,
Paid for: The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course
🪚 🔨 jimprior.com/diycourse/
Free course: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
Work With ME
👉 jimprior.com/work-with-me/
Is there a reason for the make-up ?
A written summary would be very useful
L I K E 👍👍👍👍👍❣ 💯❣💯 ❣🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩