How to Soundproof a Ceiling | DIY Soundproofing
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- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2022
- Looking to soundproof your home and create a more relaxing environment? We can help!
Most homes don't have enough soundproofing between floors-luckily, this is a project you can tackle yourself! In today's video, I'll break down how you can soundproof a floor cavity by opening your ceiling and installing multiple layers of sound-dampening material. PRICE PER SQUARE FOOT INCLUDED!
Got a comment or question? Leave it below and I'll get back to you!
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This guy has been giving me some of the most detailed, brilliant advise for years. You've helped me through so many projects. Thank you!
Great to hear! Cheers Brandy!
We have a rental property and we live on the main floor. We undertook a massive renovation of both basement and main floor (which is yet to be completed). This video helped us with understanding how to sound proof between each floor. In the basement we did Rockwool between rafters -> Sonopan -> 5/8th Drywall -> drop ceiling.
On our main floor we had rockwool between floor joists already, so we didn’t bother redoing the drywalls instead we added Sonopan to existing ceiling then added strapping wood and nailed tongue and groove pine to the ceiling.
Sonopan is a lifesaver! It works and you could tell the difference when speaking in a room with and without it!
Thanks for the video Jeff! Cheers!
So glad you addressed lighting, many people overlook this and put large 4” holes through their expensive soundproofing material. Open spaces are the single biggest transmitter of sound. I feel theirs other ways to do this but I’m glad you have an idea how to do it!
Many RUclips channels are geared toward the US, as a Canadian it's difficult to get our hands on some products. I really appreciate the content that you're putting up. Thanks again!
Wow, thank you! Cheers!
I’m n the us just curious how is osb price in ca currently? As it comes from ca I’d imagine it’s cheaper there’ we made it to $78 in wyoming then it went back down to about $19 a sheet now back up to $50 a sheet
@@joshymcdaniel9233 One would think it's cheaper, but it's not. OSB 3/4" 4x8 tongue and groove is $75 plus tax, that's $86.24 CAN.
@@joshymcdaniel9233 you'd think so but no. Even our beer is more expensive here than it is there as an imported beer. You get less taxes and a dollar with more purchase power.
@@nipzie you all should stop voting for the liberal party if you don’t like high taxes.
I'm going to drive from Minneapolis, Minnesota to Thunder Bay, Ontario (6 hour drive) just to get that soundproofing panels for my duplex. Love your videos
Bring me some to Anoka!!!
Did you go yet? I’ll pay for some in Lakeville.
Same Eden prairie. Can we hire a truck? Bring back a full 40ft trailer
Of all of the hosts of different home improvement channels I enjoy, you'd be my pick to work on a project with or to just have lunch together to enjoy a chat for an hour!
Best Canadian DIY Home Reno channel. Can’t thank you enough Jeff!
great vid Jeff... and your calmer than normal demeanor, boasts true confidence. 👍👍thx, cheers
This is Not Complicated
Excellent ideas
You shown a Professional effective way
Excellent explanation
Well done
Jeff - I used to build broadcast studios, and we took soundproofing close to 90%+ reduction. You missed a couple of key concepts that apply to all soundproofing efforts. High-frequency sounds can be absorbed by insulation, but low-frequency sounds cannot. For that, you need something that won't vibrate and mechanically transmit sound to the space on the other side of the wall. So, we used several techniques - sound-absorbing high-density acoustic insulation (not the pink thermal stuff - it's next to useless), and sound-deadening material, usually dual layers of 5/8" high density drywall.
There's a third technique called an "acoustic break." We'd stud up two 2x4 walls side by side, 1/2" apart, and fill the void with acoustic insulation, then put the double 5/8" drywall on both walls. You can get almost as good results with a 6" plate and 2x4 studs staggered.
Doors are another problem - we created sound-locks with short hallways, and commercial solid-core acoustic doors with rubber seals. The commercial doors are too expensive for most homes, but a regular solid-core door is a must.
Drop ceilings were a must in studios for the reasons you discussed, but we had to be careful to rivet all the connections and used heavy fire-rated panels. That was in addition to the double 5/8" drywall on the ceiling. Even in a residential installation, just insulation and a drop ceiling isn't enough. You still need the double drywall on the joists above the drop ceiling. That also goes for single-story homes to avoid low-frequency sound transmission through the attic space.
All wiring was on the surface, both in the void above the drop ceiling, and on the walls. Wiring penetrations were staggered by several feet to prevent sound transmission.
Much of this is overkill for most residential jobs, but not if you have a rock band practicing in your basement, or even just a drummer. There are other tricks to consider as well, like carpeting with thick pads, and diffraction fixtures in the room to break up reflections. For studios, we even glued acoustic carpet to the walls! The more sound you can absorb inside the space, the less there will be to escape.
the easy fix for homeowners who want great stereo when watching a movie is go wireless headphone. a fraction of the cost and the rest of the house is happy.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY honestly, though. This is step one to curtesy! - and happens to be step one to sound pollution reduction.
Acoustic treatments are as much of a void to enter as plumbing is, for the unexpecting homeowner!
I used Rockwool with a resilient channel for my basement ceiling. For the flooring above the basement ceiling we uses Iso-step floor underlayment. Might of been overkill, but it sure made a difference.
RC makes a big difference, double layer drywall too.
Resilient channel and rockwool made our basement bathroom into the cone of silence. Can't hear the water running from upstairs and can't hear the screaming and thumping around from downstairs! Very peaceful!
@@hilareeek Did you use the clips with the resilient channel? Or did you just attach the drywall directly to the channel?
I would like to know as well!
How thick was the Iso-Step underlayment? I see 2, 5, 6, 10, and 12 mm.
Great vid. Definitely a different question if passing inspections in new construction vs. the DIYer, but if you're just working for yourself, I've found results are best by understanding principles and looking for cheapest way to achieve. The key concepts are density, isolation, and looseness. Everyone can understand the concept of a leak. Everyone can understand "tight as a drum" being bad because...drums resonate. Visualize a sealed, isolated (decoupled/"floating") room--a framed box inside a framed box--as the conceptual ideal, and then go from there as code/circumstances allow.
For walls, you can use cheap 2x4 as a french cleat, with contacting surfaces covered in closed-cell foam tape , thus decoupling from studs. Similarly, any separation of the ceiling surface from the joists will help. Air is not your enemy--leaks are ; unsealed air is just one form of leak. Air gaps can be effective if well-sealed and having material of different densities on either side of the air gap to break/modify the waveform. Other "leaks" are your enemy--holes obviously, but also the fasteners themselves, which create a metal (highly transmissive) link between the spaces and really add up. Use the minimum number and and use a *flexible* sealer on the screw heads before you mud over. Keep joints loose (tight things resonate), like a 1/16 gap between drywall joints and corners, and fill gaps with a sealant that stays flexible.
Finally, how do you do lighting? Anything but cans, people! Sure, you can engineer sound boxes for cans, but if you're trying to save money/time for results, but just use a damn desk lamp or two! Or wall mounted LED strip stuff...or...ANYTHING but cutting a giant sound hole in your treatment! Good luck everyone - you can get good enough results for most applications (theater, office...but not recording booth) fairly cheaply, especially if you can sacrifice a few inches of room to isolate those big flat surfaces, layer different densities, and keep things loose.🤘🤘👍
If you're forced to cut holes for cans, boxes, etc, making a "sound box" above as he shows helps, but another good tip is to cover the top/exterior box/can with a decent layer of modeling clay that won't harden.
We installed mass loaded vinyl in our home theater walls and ceiling, and that led us to doing it in our master bedroom. It was the best thing we ever did for sleeping soundly. It worked out to about $2 dollars a square foot for the vinyl. We also installed 5/8 inch drywall sound board. It's amazing! It wasn't cheap ,but we think it was worth it!
well done.
Did you use a hat channel for the drywall, or did you skip that?
mlv release chemical, that why I decided not to use it :)
@sswizard we used "resilient channels " and decoupling clips in our home theater walls. However we didn't use decoupling clips ,we just used resilient channels in our bedroom because frankly I got tired of the suction sound from my bank account! Lol! We didn't need the same intensive sound proofing in our bedroom like we needed in our theater room. Hope that makes sense.
@Kevin Ji we did notice a "rubber smell" for a couple of days right after installing the mass loaded vinyl, but it was totally gone 48 hours later. There were approximately 5 or 6 days between installing the "MLV" and installing the sheetrock. I suppose if you're sensitive to that sort of thing, it would be an issue. It wasn't for us.
This is what I've been looking for, watched a bunch of your other soundproofing videos, and the between floors is what I really need, due to loud upstairs neighbours. Thanks!
Another option is to move to a home with no upstairs neighbors
@@jm8997 well, sure, but I own the house, lol.
@@jm8997I would do that if I could but I can't afford to move
@@burns_o_maticdid you open up the ceiling and attempt to do this?
@@HisaLight2mypath Well, we've opened up the ceiling and put insulation up, but the project remains unfinished, as of yet. We have space for an air gap, and we got resilient channel and 5/8 drywall, to complete the ceiling. Hopefully, it will get finished over the winter.
Thanks for the update! Doing this job this job next weekend
I’m excited for the next video, we are redoing the basement drop ceiling in a few weeks so perfect timing.
Sounds great! Cheers!
Thanks to him I renovated my parents house DIY. I saved thousands.
He mentioned it fast but sound glue between the two sheets is the best. Also using soundproofing hinges which go between the top wood and Sheetrock.
Sound travels through the wood by making the wood vibrate to the bottom. Those are steps, movements etc that travel through.
I haven’t hear about sonopan, looks cool.
This is common for music studio acustic construction if anyone wants to research more.
Second layer of drywall s great!! I hung the rock on the rooms i wasn't soundproofing first and saved all the scraps to make the first layer of drywall on the bedroom. It not only didn't cost me anything but also saved weight in the dumpster that I otherwise would have had to pay to have removed.
COOL! Hey Jeff, I just sent you a comment about building my in-home studio. You just gave me a great idea to use a drop ceiling with soundproof panels!! Plus, that will give me better access to my attic storage! Thanks a lot!! Cubby
Jeff,
I have used various materials and technology but the cheapest, easiest and most effective above all is "RockWool safe and sound" insulation. Works very well and I am impressed with it, comparing with more expensive solutions. I used regular 1/2 drywall and fiber glass tapes to joint drywalls.
You rock! Can't wait to do this on my next home.
I think this video just answered my sonopan question from another post. I'm in the Montreal area and sonopan is found just about anywhere. I'm in the planning process of finishing my basement for rent out in my house. I just might add the pink stuff and double drywall as well since my basement has a high ceiling. Thank you for all your tips and videos!
Love the light box tip. Thanks.
I have watched all of your former basement sound proofing videos. Last year I finished out my 2000 sq ft basement, I choose to put in R19 insulation between all joists, to begin with. Around all PVC drains in the ceiling and soffits I used rockwool to dampen the the water noise coming from the PVC drains. I also have many HVAC ducts in between the joists as well. I also installed many recessed 6 inch lighting cans in all the rooms. So my choice for drywall was a layer of 1/2 inch with a second layer of 1/2 inch with Green Glue in between. I did not have high hopes for my efforts, but was shocked with my results. I eliminated 98% percent of the noise from the above floor (hardwood) to the basement and 100% from the basement to the floor above. I have a theater space, RUclips studio, and I never hear the plumbing when the drains are being used. The insulation, as you indicated was very cheap, and using two layers of 1/2 inch drywall with green glue was great. My overall costs were more than reasonable for the results I got! Note: I do like the fiber board that you showed in this video and had I known would have tried it. Thanks for your videos they offer great consideration when I make my building decisions.
whats green glue?
Acoustic caulk sealant “Green Glue”. A compound that doesn’t really dry but spreads between the sheets of dry wall. It breaks the transmission of sound waves through the solid wall board. It really works, 1 to 2 tubes per 4 x 12 sheet of dry wall. Note the second sheet is screwed not glued to the first sheet, the compound is applied to the 2nd sheet before installing.
After 20+ years of accoustic residential/commercial design work, the most cost effective response is to install thick underlay and high pile carpet on top...upstairs, that is. As a recording studio builder I have had great results with Sonopan and 2x 5/8" drywall. Roxul insulation is great too. More density deadens noise. In the end, sound control comes from treatment below AND above for best results.
Hi Shawn, do you recommend this for a condo? Downstairs neighbors can hear our every step. Structure is made out of wood.
@@melaniegutierrez2448 Tiled flooring over a mortar/mesh bed adds tremendous density for sound control. Area rugs and hallway runners on top of such a floor further reduce sound transfer.
@@shawnhayden6674 Thank you for your reply! How about the stairs? Is it necessary to use different material or can we use the same as the other rooms?
Nice video and great suggestions!
We just soundproofed a basement. With Sonoboard and regular drywall. The sonoboard leaves a greenish powder and flecks all over the place so cover any carpets .....Cuts with drywall knife the best (score 3 times!) My buddy decided to use pink insulation....I would have used safe n sound. The results were satisfactory, but not perfect! The upstairs family are very loud and the children are unruly!
The sound of voices are gone the music also gone. The walking, jumping, sliding patio door and floor creaking are all still present. I attached the Sonoboard using narrow crown 18 gauge 1 1/2 inch staples and then 2" drywall screws, for the drwall layer to keep it all tight. Like I said....would probably be better with Roxul because it's dense. Good job Jeff! Cheers
He said that the fiberglass is better for that since it has more fibers
Idk myself, just reiterating. Wonder which one does better though. I have a feeling he's right tho lol
Me watching this 👀👀 as a college student and not being anywhere close to owning a home... 🤣 saving the video for later
if your a college student, don't even bother saving the video ... with inflation you will never own a home.
You’ve given me hope. Thank you!!
Thank you for this video! We just bought a split level and we really need some sound proofing because the "basement" is used for living space. We already have a drop ceiling, but no insulation at all. I'm very excited for the next video showing sound proofing with a drop ceiling!
Glad it was helpful!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY So glad I found this channel. Your content is really well done. I have a similar situation to the original commenter. If you were redoing the upstairs floors instead of the basement ceilings to achieve similar results, what would you do? Looks like subflooring is a lot more expensive then drywall (at first I was going to suggest I could add more insulation after removing the subfloor, but that would really drive up costs). Is putting down a later of MLV between the subfloor and hardwood really the only cost effective option at that point?
To soundproof and use a drop ceiling install insulation in the cavity then SONOpan OVER the joists. make sure to mark out the joist locations or go by the screw locations on the SONOpan then install the drop ceiling as usual. If you ever need access simply cut the SONOpan with a knife and secure it back in place when you're done.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Please help!! I'm renting, is there anything that I can do that is renter friendly. There is no insulation between the floor upstairs and the basement ceiling
Great video, very well explained.. thanks! I would like to add that air can be your friend as well. Sound looses energy when transferring from one medium to another, so an air gap between the isolation layers would act as a barrier as well. Ofcourse, the number 1 thing you need is mass for the sound to transfer to, so make sure there aren't any air leaks or i.e. nails that will transfer the vibrations from one layer to another.
I found out that the nearest Canadian Home Depot is only 12.5 hrs away. My plan, when I get that far, is to rent a one-way trailer and go up there, get a butt-ton of Sonopan, and bring it back (towed by my suburban) for sound-proofing in my basement. This way, I can have the best of both worlds. And, having extra tall ceilings will help with not feeling like I'm in a cave.
I need 36 in Texas would u make a trip for me if I were to pay u 500$I would fly out to u and drive them back to Texas
those lights work great .with a plumb laser I marked were all my boxes were on the floor. After mud tape and paint were done, found marks on floor /lasered up /holesawed and snapped in the lights
An old-timer contractor once told me to put 1 layer of regular pink insulation and several 4ft x 50ft rolls of soundproof felt padding and staple it to the joists. Then add the drywall. The felt will reduce both sound waves of voices, music AND knocking, footsteps, etc.
If you are using multiple layers of drywall, you can find the thinner led lights, rip the clips off and glue it to the last layer of drywall - and just poke a small hole in the upper layer of drywall and run the wire through.
i like the costing approach to this problem
Thank you for sharing, i want to insulate an attic, it´s just for the wind that comes thru the cracks and the noise of rain. Now i know one layer for that is enough :)
Would making the box smaller help?
In my head it seems like a better install. Prep where you want lighting at, frame something out for it, then just do a cutout for the box, or the box is right above the green board (soundpan I think), and then cut the drywall for the light itself.
Seems like it'd work better. What do you think?
Very interesting and edifying. I also enjoy the comments below.
Lots of great soundproofing ideas, thanks for the video
You bet! Cheers Neighbor!
Thanks for teaching
Great video with great information 👍🏼
Love your videos Jeff! Helps me a bunch!
Was actually looking to see if you had done a video on how to do a drop down ceiling and sadly didn’t find one, so very happy that your next video is exactly on that subject.
Do you have an ETA on that drop down ceiling video?
You are the GOAT! I'm gonna make my own studio in my apartment and you got me so AMP'd to do so. No Sonopan but ill make it work.
Use high-density acoustic insulation (not the pink thermal stuff) and double 5/8" fire-code drywall. That will give good results, but there are still more ways. Jeff got most of it right.
if you can't get a hold of MLV then use resilient channel and green glue between layers. Cheers!
I used pink insulation 2lbs loaded vinyl mass with resilient channels and 2 layers of 5/8 drywall with green glue in between . Perfecto!
Thank you for the content Jeff from home renovision
Hey Jeff, big fan. I have noticed on almost all soundproofing videos (not just yours) there’s no mention of doubling the top plate of a framed wall to compensate for the amount of space two pieces of 5/8 drywall or Sonopan with drywall with res channel would take.
While this is probably obvious for an experienced contractor, DIY’ers like myself might run into the problem of having to back the framed wall after the fact. ( my situation now) lol.
Good stuff. Thanks, Jeff.
Nice job. Just built sound panels with sonapan..looking forward to seeing drop ceiling video
Great video Jeff, thanks a bunch! I almost did a renovation until I saw your video. I had a number of people come through and quote all sorts of layers and everyone had a different theory with some crazy prices. So I decided I'm going to do it myself just like you said. I did have 3 key questions;
1) how do you soundproof around ductwork (rigid plenum as well as insulated flex)? I'm guessing whatever you do for duct also applies to 4" SCHED 40 waste pipes.
2) Screws; all these acoustic sites talk about 'decoupling' fasteners from material but you seem to be using one fastener to sandwich the layers directly to the wood furring. Isn't direct screw going to negate all the soundproofing?
3) Lastly drywall gaps; you recommend standard taping while acoustic sites warn against it and recommend to leave a 1/8" gap and fill it with acoustic caulking.
Is this overkill or does it really make the difference? Looking forward to understanding this too. Keep those videos coming!
Thank you for this. We are soundproofing this week. Thanks for including information on light fixtures.
Safe and sound insulation + res bar + 2 layers of drywall. It is much more expensive than your options but it is a rental unit and I don't want to need to do it again...
great point. there is a difference in expectation from single family to multiple dwelling for sure.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY That's an awesome trick for the lights! I went with 4" surface mount LED's so that I could use metal J-boxes and block them with putty pads. It was fairly expensive!
cheers
That is gonna be great!!! 👍 👌 Are you also using Sonoboard?
@@rodjames1693 thanks to Jeff's recent videos, he caught me just in time to add this to my construction. I think you've convinced me that i owe him some appreciation in form of membership! My ceiling construction between dwellings is 2 layers of insulation, forementioned lighting, sonoboard, resiliant channel, two layers of 5/8" type x drywall w/ green glue between. All joints offset w/ acoustic sealant between first layer joints.
Sound is airborne vibration. You get two types of noise through walls/floors. Sound can pass through these barriers, but it is also possible to have vibration (vibration from walking over the floor, dropped object, etc.) transmitted through solid objects (e.g. wood joists and studs) and then excite the air to produce sound. Your green matting helps against both sound and vibration. The pick insulation is useless against vibration.
Awesome video! Thanks!
Fir the lighting, in the past building a few studios we used IC in contact that can go in first with just studs. Now simpler, mire effective and economical because all you need is just the wire. LED inserts were great ,but now shallow cutting a 3-5 " hole with proper size hole saw (with depth gauge installed) just cutting into 1/3 of the bottom sheet.
Just around
Great video
You are great explaining
Well done
Thanks Jeff!
Got a chuckle out of me with that "don't make any noise"
Sound also will propagate through the drywall to the strapping to the floor joist, following the solid material path. I solved this by adding fiberglass in between floor joists AND I purchased 1.00" thick foil backed EPS (expanded polystyrene) sheets and glued them to the sheet of drywall. Noise vibrations can't move through the EPS. I can play my stereo at an uncomfortable level and barely anything is heard in the BdRm above. The EPS was less expensive than the Hat-channel others were using in their basements.
Just research decoupling walls/ceiling and save yourself time. To sound proof a bedroom fore playing drums. I used isostore products and they work. Isorafts and isoclips with hat channel to suspend the ceiling and walls. Then 2 layers of 5/8 drywall with green glue in between. Make sure and glue seal all edges and seams of drywall. Use putty for electric boxes/lights to seal penetrations. Bought a 1,500$ door from isostore. Built 1/2" plexiglass sliding vent covers for HVAC while playing. That's what works trust me.
What do you think about cork isolation for floors, wall and even ceilings? thank you, love your channel!
I have been waiting for this video well done
Cheers!
I love the info. I'm interested to know if there is anything you would change if someone wanted to do a recessed ceiling. That's right. I want to leave the exposed wood (probably paint black) and stuff some sound proofing in between. I have a low ceiling and I want to maximize what little space I have.
I second this, I'm wondering if I shove rockwool or something like that inbetween, but I worry sheetrocking will make my 7 foot ceiling feel too low.
Mass Load Vinyl is available in Canada. I used it in Chilliwack, B.C. March 2020 and in Mission B.C. August 2021.
Rockwool (aka mineral wool) is superior to fiberglass in the acoustic insulation department and it's easier to install. Also, I'm not sure why resilient channel wasn't covered (unless I missed it). Vibrations from foot traffic above will transfer through the joists, blocking, and drywall and it is the role of the resilient channel to disrupt that transmission.
Completely agree
@@thetruth4519 Me, too. I've installed two layers of it in my basement ceiling for R30 thermal resistance and near-total sound isolation between the floors.
Stc rating is very similar between fiberglass and rock wool. Not sure if it is actually better or if it’s just the advertising statements
there are whole home DC systems nowadays. that eliminates your need for AC to DC converter you were trying to make space for.
Almost any light system can be converted to led light bulbs or 12v to 48v led light bulb systems.
I do like your dropped ceiling idea at the end. the totally easy option for the newb and makes space for plumbing, lots of converter boxes, and the such.
little side note, there are several companies now that make a soundproofing putty you just mush around the backside of your normal boxes after they are wired up.
Thanks Saul!
Awesome video. I’m looking to soundproof a drum room in my basement. If I can find the sonopan in the states I’m going to use that plus 2 layers of drywall and green glue because I already have a bunch.
Unfortunately I have a lot of ductwork in the room. With your experience what is the best way I can stop sound from traveling through the ductwork for a drum room?
Thank you!
Thank you!
You bet!
Thanks for the video! Why can't you build a SONOpan box around the standard lighting boxes to prevent sound escaping, just like you did for potlights?
This is genius. I just installed sonopan for my daughter's bedroom and was frustrated by sound coming in through the outlet holes. This solves that which is great as I didn't install drywall yet 😀.
Glad it helped. Cheers!
I'm going to bring my wire through first layer of drywall, then install a 5/8" shallow pan box to first layer of drywall, put second sheet over, cut hole for box and use flush mount led lights. I'll only have the wires poking through the first layer and I'll caulk them up good. Using vapor barrier jbox for outlet boxes with a putty pad on the backside of each. It's a PITA, but I never want to do this basement again.
Update here, I did this technique around outlets and it's a night & day difference. Thanks Jeff!
Amazing. You're a god lad. This will definitely come in handy
Thanks!
1inch polystyrene sheets between the ceiling drywall and rafters costs an extra 12¢ per square foot and that stuff works really well. You can get drywall with it fitted to the back already
Thank you for the very helpfull video. I`m planning to make a wall outside to deflect the pool machinery noise. Does the fiber board suvive the hot and cold weather (inside a waterproof wall)?
Great information
Cheers!
Would've loved to see some insight on soundproofing for a drop ceiling :)
To soundproof and use a drop ceiling install insulation in the cavity then SONOpan OVER the joists. make sure to mark out the joist locations or go by the screw locations on the SONOpan then install the drop ceiling as usual. If you ever need access simply cut the SONOpan with a knife and secure it back in place when you're done.
I put 6” batts in my basement ceiling and used 5/8” rock. The cost was minimal as I had extra left from garage ceiling. I don’t know what people expect for everyday use, but I can say it stops tv and gaming sounds unless it’s at extreme levels. It evens stops foot fall from upstairs. It’s good enough that I have to go downstairs to call the kids to the dinner table. if you needed a studio quiet, sure go the extra measure.
5/8 durarock?
A super easy-to-recommend addition to this, denim insulation strips between the drywall and the wood...
Every layer of soundproofing helps, the more mass the better. But sound also likes to travel through solidly-connected hard surfaces. If your hard floors are connected directly to hard subfloors directly to hard joists, directly to the hard drywall... You'll always have issues with certain sound transmission, specifically walking and knocking sounds transmitting to the drywall ceiling, which acts as a giant soundboard like in a piano.
Break up these contacts with good underlayment / padding on the floors upstairs. Then a super easy addition is to use denim insulation sheets on the ceiling in the room below. This "decouples" much of the hard-on-hard contact taking place. The sonopan does a similar thing, the mass loaded vinyl is too thin and hard to really accomplish this "decoupling" well.
Now, the denim comes in rolls and can be a little pricey, but if you cut it into strips and staple it to the furring strips, then screw your drywall onto that... I was amazed, nearly the same performance as a second sheet of drywall.
My home office is adjacent to my kids playroom, not fun. I doubled up my regular in-wall insulation, used 2 sheets of drywall on the playroom-side, 1 on the office-side, and used these denim strips on both sides of the wall... My kids can be screaming in that room and I can barely hear it.
Where would we find these denim insulation strips or rolls?
@@APB2027 I used UltraTouch™ Denim Insulation from Accoustal Surfaces.
It's just what my hardware store had. I'm sure other products would work as well.
@@ChrisBurnes good luck finding it, last i looked it was practically non existent
@@gman8760 Search for "recycled cotton insulation", look for something around 3/8"in thick. Or thick felt-like material would work. I find quite a bit on Amazon that would work.
Or there is the foam stuff they use for sound dampening car interiors. "Siless sound deadening" on Amazon.
Edit: Everyone has to play the "supply shortage game" and find an acceptable alternative...
It seems impossible to get Bonded Logic product anymore. Used to be able to order in thru big box stores, they dont carry it anymore.
Great video, I lalready have a drop ceiling, wondering about adding pink insulation - is there anything that needs to be done around electrical wires, plumbing, etc? House was built late 80's so wires go through floor joists in 1 inch holes. Anything to make it fire safe?
Great video. I wonder, however, why you didn’t mention hat channels and clips with rubber grommets. Decoupling the drywall from the joists in this manner prevents nearly all vibrations of the drywall from passing to the joists directly. This approach, along with the other tips you mentioned, would truly be the ultimate soundproof ceiling.
Expensive? A bit. But if you have a theater room in the basement, for example, the extra money might be worth it to the homeowner.
I also prefer rock wool to fiberglass. Your thoughts on rock wool?
Rockwool for 2x4 walls, fiberglass for everything else. Clips and hat channel is best practice imo.
@@myopiczeal will any of this help with impact noise footfalls from an above condo unit? Is dense cellulose installed any benefit at all for this?
Are you going to touch on fire blocking and draft stopping on the dropped ceiling video? You mentioned fire-rated on the green board but didn't talk about how to install it with the gap under the strapping to make it a valid draft stop. looking forward to the next video!
Interesting contents.. thanks 🙏 for sharing sir
My pleasure. Cheers!
Ive been in the drywall biz for a long time and doing media rooms are super tricky ... even that steel box on the ceiling will break the seal
Filling the full cavity in the ceiling is super important for the high frequency sounds but the wood will push low frequency like thumping ... the sonopan is pretty decent for that if you put it right on the wood so it has that absorbing low frequencies ... for the steel boxes i would probably not do it like that id use Quiet rock on top of the sonopan ... let the wiring in conduit or popped through the drywall but be sure to use a sound putty or sound caulking to block it because again quiet rock is super good and you cut holes in it and the leak starts ... strap it wiht sound bar and layer of drywall to finish up ... in the end when the whole room is done you should be at the mercy of the doors and door opening including the rubber at the bottom of the doors ... it all matters and the second you break the seal though ... its downhill right away
I have found that a cavity stuffed with fiberglass, 1x3 strapping, 5/8" OSB screwed to the center of the strapping and another layer of 5/8 Type X screwed to the OSB is a very cost effect way to reduce sound transfer..
Great information! While I've undertaken soundproofing projects like this, the extra product knowledge is much appreciated. My concern with these types of material sandwiching is what happens when you have a plumbing leak. There currently seems to be no plumbing connectors that have withstood the test of time (including copper or upononor). Would running chases be a good idea around sound proofed locations?
I will state that renting a lift is cheap and AMAZING! Me and a helper installed over 400 square feet of sheetrock with no experience in a ceiling in 2 hrs.
Cheers to that!
Using blocks of wood is cheaper, but not so amazing. I wish I had planned on doing the ceilings in one swoop, and rented a lift
LOVE YOUR SHOW!! Tape both layers. 1st layer of 5/8 fire tape (one coat) 2nd layer of 5/8 finish as normal ...... slows down the passage of air when a fire occurs most basements have mechanical rooms ie.. furnaces, hot water heaters, pumps, fuse boxes. Nothing is fire proof, the two layers of 5/8 helps give you time to escape. I love mud
Do you know if that 8/4 soundproofing sheeting is available in the UK? Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer.
One thing in the video I immediately noticed was when he put a couple screws on the Sonopan on the ceiling, it actually changed the acoustics of his voice for what the microphone was catching. That right there was enough to sell me on a product I was looking at
Hey Jeff, big fan of the channel. I am renovating my basement into a rental suite but I don't have a ton of ceiling height to start layering on more sound proofing material. Does sonopan work if you screw it on in between your joist cavities instead of placing it on top of your joists/strapping? Cheers
thks ooooooo so much for youre great tips !!
You're so welcome!
Great video!
This is very informative and thank you, unfortunately most of interesting videos about soundproofing are focusing on US or Canada products, nothing from Europe :(
Thanks for bringing up the drop ceiling. My basement has a wooden drop ceiling that we actually quite like, but I wouldn't mind increasing the sound proofing as it's also our guest room.
To soundproof and use a drop ceiling install insulation in the cavity then SONOpan OVER the joists. make sure to mark out the joist locations or go by the screw locations on the SONOpan then install the drop ceiling as usual. If you ever need access simply cut the SONOpan with a knife and secure it back in place when you're done.
Great video! Do you have some feedback on how to address ductwork?
Thank you for the video! I wish I had watched this before we built my wife's home office! My home is rather old 1853 with wood floors on the first floor and open joists in the basement. Due to the age of the house they used huge cut timber which looks rather cool. I am starting a man cave and would love to keep the joists visible. Is there a way to do the sound proofing while still leaving the joists visible? Joists are 7 3/4" x 3" space between is between 25 inches and just under 30" no there was no building codes then. I am not saying money isn't an issue because if my wife ever read this she would kill me. But I plan on doing it perfectly so if I only have enough to start in one spot and progress out I will. Thank you!
Hey Jeff I just finished renovating a bachelor in my duplex. Instead of making soundproof boxes i made brackets with scrap 2x4 flush to the straping and i drilled a 1/2 inch holes to pass my 2/14 wire. Then installed the sonopan matching the 1/2 holes and pulling my wire trough it. I screwed my electrical box into the bracket i made right on top of the sonopan and then I installed resilient channel and then two 5/8 drywall. The electrical box finished 1/8 recessed in the ceiling wich is perfect and only have a couple 1/2” holes in the sonopan. Works awesomely with pot lights also. I can now have my tenant blast music downstairs and sleep like a baby haha
Hey Alexy, trying to picture what you have done but I honestly can't picture this in my head of how you sealed those brackets with sonopan. Wish there was a way to post pictures here.
@@ptessier73 ill write each layers maybe it’ll help figure it out!
Keep in mind for me I didn’t have strapping so i screwed sonopan right on my floor joist.
So first things first i put a scrap 2x4 flush to the bottom of my floor joist in between my joist to have backing to screw my electrical box.
Measured exactly where the box needs to go then drilled a 1/2” hole trough my scrap 2x4 and ran my electrical wire letting it hang.
Then i installed sonopan (making sure to match the 1/2 hole i mention earlier (i used a rope taped to the electrical wire to pull it trough the sonopan since i was installing it alone lol))
Once the sonopan is installed you can install your electrical box right on the sonopan where it’s supposed to go. If you want to go crazy on the insulation you can prob put some foam insulation to seal the 1/2” hole. I didn’t bother.
Then I installed my resilient channel.
Then two layers of 5/8 drywall to be up to code in my area.
Joist___flat 2x4____Joist
SonopanSonopanSonopan
Electrical box
Resilientchannel electricalbox Resilientchannel
5/8drywall electricalbox 5/8drywall
5/8drywall electricalbox 5/8drywall
I tried to make a front view idk if it makes sense if not ill try to explan it another way!
Cheers
@Alexy Lauriault Thank you for taking the time to write all that. It really cleared things out for me... My original plan was to go R12 insulation inside the joist-trust cavity + SONOPAN + 5/8 Drywall... But after seeing Jeff's drop ceiling video I am now looking at how I could soundproof with a drop ceiling.. The only reason to go with a drop ceiling is to have access to the ceiling for maintenance..
So I was thinking.. What if I would put SONOPAN on each sides and top of each joist-trust then push two layers of R20 insulation then add a drop ceiling with some soundproof tyles... It would be a lot more work to cover the interior of each joist trust but it should give a pretty decent result... What do you think?
@@ptessier73 i think the ideal condition for sonopan to do its job is in full sheets with minimal gaps when installing it so cutting it to follow the cavity might defeat the purpose of the sonopan. But I don't know enough to answer that question. Give sonopan a call or email them they will be able to answer that!
Insulating with r20 in between joist + sonopan + drywall would make something pretty good as far as noise reduction in my opinion. I can blast music as high as my speaker can go and I only hear a bit of base from downstairs. Before I could hear my tenant talk lol.
Why would you need access to ceiling for maintenance?
@@nightowl19696 The access would allow me to fix anything easily like, lets say a plumbing pipe that is leaking or change to the wiring, stuff like that. Just to gain easy access to the ceiling in case I need to do maintenance. If it is sealed off with Drywall + Sonopan, it makes your life a whole lot harder, you have to basically cut through. With a suspended ceiling you just remove a few tiles and you can fix what ever you need to fix.... However, the disadvantage with a drop ceiling is, you can just use insulation in the joist cavity and the drop ceiling.. Furthermore, unless you find a way to block the transfer of noise between rooms in the basement through the joist cavity, a drop ceiling wont box each room..... Now I guess for my office I could always do the insulation+sonopan+drywall and just do a drop ceiling everywhere else.. EXCEPT maybe the basement bathroom eventually which I think I would use drywall since it is better at handling moisture... But yeah, in a nutshell the idea behind trying to find a good soundproofing solution with a suspended ceiling was EASY access for maintenance, to repair or make modifications to the wiring, lighting, etc.
Hi thanks for the video ! Curious as to why Rockwool wasn’t considered ?
Great video