The 3 best ways to soundproof a solid wall
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
- The 3 key principles when soundproofing a wall are to:
1. Increase the mass of the wall
2. Add Resilience
3. Decouple the soundproofing from the structure
The highest performing soundproofing system and slimmest clip and bar system on the market that incorporates all 3 principles is the Independent ReductoClip™ System. Learn more about this DIYable solution:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/...
A list of our recommended soundproofing products and materials that we talk about in this video:
1. Acoustic Plasterboard: soundproofingstore.uk/product...
2.Tecsound: soundproofingstore.uk/product...
3. ReductoClips™: soundproofingstore.uk/product...
4. ReductoClip™ Furring Bar: soundproofingstore.uk/product...
5. Acoustic Mineral Wool: soundproofingstore.uk/product...
00:00 Into how to soundproof a wall
00:51 1. Add mass
01:32 Acoustic plasterboard
02:00 Tecsound & mass loaded vinyl
03:03 Add different types of mass
04:39 2. Add resilience
05:35 ReductoClip Independent System (only 120mm thick)
06:03 3. Decouple soundproofing from the original structure
09:10 3 key soundproofing principles summary
09:30 Soundproofing top tips
09:38 1. Acoustically seal layers
09:58 2. Acoustic insulation in cavities
10:31 3. Do it once, do it right 
Хобби
Good to see a company/channel advertising/discussing soundproofing in a studio that is actually soundproofed and sound-treated!
Good tips. Products look cool. Can’t over emphasize how quickly any flanking can potentially completely undo anything you’ve spent on soundproofing.
Ensure you’re doing just as much work to seal off any air gaps, including air, conditioner, ducts, electrical outlets, and light switches and light fixture boxes.
Works to a point, but it takes more than just caulk to stop flanking noise .
Could listen to this guy talk all day.
Thank you for the kind comment! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Another excellent video and will become my goto video to send people asking me about basic soundproofing to.
Thanks Stuck In The Middle, we really appreciate your comment.
I have put a great deal of my own time into sound proofing, I must say this video clears up more than 2/3 of my concerns. So thank you so very much.
Thank you for the kind comment. Glad you found the video helpful. We have lots more videos all about different areas of soundproofing and lots more info on our website too, hopefully we can fill in the other 1/3!
Super stuff, you explain things so well. It is amazing what we can do to help others.
Hi Kevin Darroch - Thank you for the kind comment. We try our best to make what is a very complex subject, a little more digestable. Glad people are finding it helpful.
Great video. All key factors are mastered to perfection... sound, lighting, information. Wau!!!
Hi henrikhjortshj6671 - Thank you for the kind comment.
One of the best guides out there.
The most true one is do it correct from the start since you might have to rebuild everything if you mess up.
Hi T S, great to hear you found the video useful, many thanks for the feedback.
Excellent advice and Information - My adult autistic daughter is traumatized by very loud noises especially from stadium type /illegal fireworks that a few neighbors blast for a few days before and after New Years and 4th of July - We have to leave our house for a few days and stay at a Hotel in an isolated area a few hours from our town where Fireworks are strictly not allowed - Daughter is so traumatized that she will not go to sleep at night for almost a week straight and Freaks out when she hears it and cannot be consoled - I'm considering either buying a Whisper/soundproof room and place in the garage or DIY soundproofing her bedroom / safe-room and your information is excellent and very much appreciated - Thanks!
Fully understand my sons sensory is terrible drills ,alarms, sirens,whistles ,and the neighbours keep slamming internal doors it's driving him mad .hope you're daughters sensory gets easier as she gets older .
Really good advice, it helped me understand the problem and the answer!
Thanks BRUK 2020, great to hear you found it useful.
Super video ))) Thank you!
A most informative video. Thank you.
Thanks @AShorewalker, great to hear your feedback.
You sir are a great teacher!
Thank you, that's very kind. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Helpful, Thanks!
Great video
Great video. I wish we had Tecsound in the US.
Excellent video on a sometimes mystifying topic!
Thanks for the feedback Bear Claw, glad you found it useful.
I've used this company and in my opinion undersell how good the product is, best money I have ever spent. Phil and team were very helpful.
Hi @gorringeman, much appreciated - thank you!
How much per square meter?
Excellent
Its the best idea that by having an independence sound proofing system is that you can now install the software/ wiring cables to and fro
great video. solid tips. ive done alot of research on it. it will be a pricey investment if you want it done right
Thanks much for sharing such valuable informations! I want to prevent footstep noise coming from downstairs (yes downstairs). I want to create DIY panels using rubber-cork roll (600kg/m3). Would hanging to the wall with french cleat work? Ultimately there will be air gaps, that's why I am asking.
Hi G K, are you trying to block unwanted noise from the room below being heard in the room above? Then you need to be looking at soundproofing the floor. If the noise is also flanking up the walls, then you will potentially need to look at soundproofing the walls too.
These videos might be useful:
ruclips.net/video/S9ZhiDRTPds/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/N_uOq6V7j_M/видео.html
Love a good wall system! How would you soundproof a door on the same wall? Is there a specific type/style of door that is better?
Hi @ZylkaLeftridge, this blog goes into more detail about soundproofing doors:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-door
Professionals!
I like that you told me three ways I could do it and then the best way. I have an Airbnb in my home and their wall is right next to mine. Snoring, etc. can be a problem for me. Will that yellow piece(techasound) cut the noise considerably because it would be thinner? Can I paint that? I need to do this very cheaply and quickly. And I don't want to have to replace the baseboards or crown molding. Thanks.
Hi @kathrynparker983, we wouldn't recommend simply using Tecsound (or its alternative - FlexiSound) as these materials are used as part of a soundproofing solution and shouldn't be used on their own. More information on why can can be found below:
ruclips.net/video/lkz-EVPU8DI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/fffHFAVgdGI/видео.html
Is the dividing wall a solid or stud wall? Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can speak to you in more detail and advise accordingly.
thanks for sharing. we recently moved into our new home where the master bedroom is adjacent to our daughter's bedroom by a thin wall. the soundproofness is so bad that we can hear each other talking in each's room in low-to-normal volume. May i ask your opinion what would be the best soundproofing option for us? We don't want sacrifice the aesthetics of the wall and also want to make sure we don't hear embarrassing sound from either room. thanks!
Hi zyn8866, please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208. For an internal stud wall, please take a look at the Soundboard 4. An easy to install direct to wall soundproofing panel, which has a standard plasterboard finish and is only 30mm thick.
ruclips.net/video/FqG0F4In74c/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundboard-4
Excellent informative video! Any suggestions on whether interior perpendicular walls to the party wall should be insulated too?
Hi Adam, that's a great question. There is no black and white answer, it really depends on each individual property. I would certainly spend some time listening to the returning walls to see if you can hear sound transmitting from them. If you can, treating these walls is necessary as well. If no sound can be heard coming out, then you don't need to treat them. It is more likely with hollow stud walls that it will be a problem.
Excellent vid, thank you.
Can I ask please, why your example uses TecSound rather than the MLV? Would there be a case to use both?
I'm hoping to treat my party wall either side of a chimney breast to stop MY sound travelling out - piano, church organ [so loads of low frequencies] & movies. I know a true de-coupling would be ideal but not sure if I can afford the extra space of an additional stud wall.
Would fixing the resilient channels directly to the plastered brick party wall make enough difference?
Thanks.
Hi Eddie Harkin - You can use MLV. We prefer TecSound because it is more visco elastic. MLV is quite rigid / solid, wheras TecSound is far more flexible and dampening so it dampens more sound energy. It's also self adhesive making it much simpler to install. Realistically if you are creating amplified low frequency sound from instruments, de-coupled studs is the only way to achieve very effective results. A resilient system like our ReductoClip system direct to wall will help a huge amount with mid to high frequencies, low frequencies (125Hz and below) it will help to a degree but is limited. You need that bigger air gap and distance bewteen the internal and external mass to really improve the bass end. Nobody wants to lose space, but it's really the only way to do it right.
@@SoundproofingStore Thanks.
@@eddieharkin2550 Happy to help
How do you go about dealing with ventilation? Air has to get into and out of a sealed studio.
Hi James Bowie, this video will hopefully help.
ruclips.net/video/5TWm8tUyUZc/видео.html
However, if you have any further questions, please feel free to give us a call on 01423 206208.
Great video. By chance do you know of any companies like yours in the United States?
Hi cancel bubble, thanks for the feedback - great to hear you found it useful. I'm afraid we don't know of any companies in the United States.
Very useful video
According to your videos can we use springs instead of acoustic isolation clips to add resilience to drywall?!
Hi @alirezayousefirad, we use an analogy of comparing the clips to how the suspension in a car works, absorbing impact vibrations, but definitely wouldn't recommend just using a spring. (It would be incredibly difficult to install).
Also, without the closed cell foam (which separates the ReductoClip from the structure and also allows for the absorption of vibrations) using a spring would mean it would simply act as a conductor for the sound to pass through.
This video goes into more detail on how the ReductoClip works:
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
@@SoundproofingStore thanks a million, please read my other question on this video too
Is it possible to make a totally sound proof pod like bunk bed? My roommate and his girlfriend share a room with me and id like to build something since I am experienced in construction that will sound proof say if they want to get it on and that noise would be unheard from my bunk lol
Hi @meowzic, for a soundproofed pod, you'd have to build a room within a room (similar to soundproofing a music studio):
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing
Might be easier to go out for the evening if they 'want to get it on!'
Boy oh boy, I wish I’d come across this 10 months ago.
I renovated a basement in a Victorian mid terrace. The basement was already dry and finished. It’s use is for a media room so I installed two layers of acoustic plasterboard (on top off the existing ceiling) with silicone in between. I was in a hurry as there were loads of other work to do. Now that it’s finished I’m rather disappointed with the results.
I wish I’d decoupled the ceiling using your system.
I have access to the floor above. Is there anything I can do to help things or is it too late?
Hi J E, we have a number of floor soundproofing solutions: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/floors
However, please do give us a call on 01423 206208 as it's far better we discuss this with you in more detail to ensure the correct solution.
My neighbor and I are only separated by a hollow block wall with sheet rock over a 2 inch furring strip. Should I remove the existing sheet rock and leave the furring strips to start with this system or should I go over the existing sheet rock? Is the 2 inch strip creating a good air gap? Thanks!
Hi E. Climan, are you based outside of, or within the UK? If within the UK, please do contact us on (01423) 206208 and we can discuss this further with you.
How is that stud wall supported? I was thinking if it is connected to the side wall, floor and ceiling you will get sound transmission at these junctions.
Hi Mark Lydon, if just soundproofing one wall (domestic use) then yes you fix around the perimeter into the floor, ceiling and returning walls, but you use an acoustic isolation strip to minimise any flanking vibration. You shouldnt' really be getting transmission through these junctions as we would expect the vast majority of the sound will be coming directly through the offending party wall not so much through the perimeter surfaces. At the end of the day it needs to be fixed securely somewhere, so returning surfaces is better than fixing to the offending surface. If it's for a music room then it will fix into the next stud frame creating a self supporting box.
Great video! What is your suggestion for a shared apartment wall (that I can not tear down of course) to block the sound of the jerk neighbor that loves to slam doors, slam against the shared wall, slam cabinets and slam the medicine cabinet so so loudly and not normal apartment noise?
Hi Jm Jms, great to hear you found the video useful. Our highest preforming system for soundproofing walls is the ReductoClip Independent Wall System:
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
However, depending on your relationship with the neighbour it might be worth speaking to them and asking them to attach some soft close buffers to their cabinets and a neoprene strip to the perimeter of their door. This would be a far simpler and effective solution to stop the impact vibration travelling into your property.
I've same problem mate ignorant bastards .
Would i have too do all sides of a chimney brest or just the main section of the adjoining wall? ....
Hi Tom - Good question and always a case by case thing i'm afraid. In many cases the chimney blocks more sound than the rest of the wall because it has more layers of brick and more mass. Most of our customers if asked to spend time listening to different areas of the wall when the neighbour is making noise will say that they could only hear the sound coming out of the alcoves either side, not the chimney breast itself. In which case, you only need to soundproof the alcoves to achieve good results. However, there are the occassional poroperties where sound does come out of the chimney breast too. In those cases you really have to soundproof around the entire chimney breast to solve the problem. There is a little more detailed info here if you want to learn further - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney
What I’m struggling with is on a typical council house wall would I need to remove the wall back to the brick then sound deaden the brick or can I proceed with adding mass to the current wall ( which would be so much easier )
Hi @christolongers, with our ReductoClip Solutions, the recommendation is to remove skirting and coving and any dot and dab plasterboard.
Please see the below installation guides:
1. ReductoClip Independent Wall System:
irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Independent%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf
2. ReductoClip Direct To Wall System:
irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Direct%20To%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf
Have you ever heard of Sonopan? Im trying to figure out if putting a layer of this and then drywall over an existing party wall would be better than green glue, drywall and then another layer of drywall. Trying to reduce deep TV Bass noises from neighbour.
For soundproofing against lower frequncies that carry a stronger vibrational energy you will need to decouple your wall. adding layrs directly to the exsiting wall structure will not deal with these lower frwquencies. For this situation I would look at our ReductoClip independent wall system.
Will hanging a large mirror ( using plasterboard screws) damage the soundproof effect?
did it?
Hi, will mass loaded vinyl help with a loud HVAC?
Hi E C - Thank you for your question. MLV is a useful material in soundproofing, but as with everything in soundproofing, it's not just about the material, it's about how its being used and where it's being used and what exactly you are trying to achieve.
Great idea for a room for my Autistic child with severe auditory processing auditory sensory issuses. Whats the price per m² ? Is it available in Ireland ?
@jmom687 Absolutely. We have helped many parents with autistic children to create a more peaceful space at home. We can't really price that kind of project per m2. It's always best to calculate what you need specifically for your space. The best thinig to do is go to our website at www.soundproofingstore.co.uk and fill in a contact form with the dimensions of your room and any photos. We can then work out what you need and a price. We don't ship to Ireland ourselves but you can arrange a courier or freight forward company to ship the order over to you.
Decoupling. Walls can be built on 2x6 headers and footers with 2x4 studs staggered so that the two sides of the wall are not fastened to the same 2x4s. Then weave fiberglass insulation between the offset 2x4s for sound absorption in addition to the decoupling.The same principle is very effective for decoupling floors and ceilings. Do not fasten a ceiling to floor joists from the floor above. Use ceiling joists staggered between those floor joints with both ceiling and floor joint supported at the walls, not coupled between the walls. Yes, this technique requires more material and more space when building. But it is significantly more effective than any other approach.
Staggered studs are a decent idea for soundproofing a stud wall, but this video is about solid masonry walls, in which case, staggered studs won't offer any benefit. The other issue with staggered studs is that they're not really de-coupled because the header and footer is connected to both sides. So it's reduced connection, not complete disconnection. But they certainly offer an imporvement over standard stud frames. I certainly wouldnt' say it's more effective than any other approach, there are many more effective solutions, they just take up more space and more cost.
Do you have any trusted US counterparts? This is great, but even in the major city I live in choices are limited.
Hi @DannyDaCat, it's certainly something we get asked about, but unfortunately we don't.
Question... So after installing the clips and boards and MLV etc, is it just a case of skimming and then painting to get a "normal" wall finish?
Hi Mark Harper, our solid wall solutions have a 15mm acoustic grade plasterboard finish. So standard plasterboard decorating techniques apply. As you mention, we'd recommend a skim plaster and then painting.
Or might consider cement board.
If the noises are coming from above (120mm concrete Slab) is it enough to soundproof only the ceiling or do I have to soundproof also all the walls to have some results? I'm interested in mostly airborne noises : loud voices and tv.
Hi Mihai - Thank you for your question. Firstly i'm surprised you're having a noise problem. 120mm of concrete should be doing a good job for airborne noise as it has a huge amount of mass. So either the concrete is hollow slab style so there is less mass than expected, or the nosie you are getting is actually more vibrational (muffled bassy voices, and bass from tv). So you defintiely need a system that de-couples not just adds mass. In regards to where to soundproof, this is different in every case, only you can spend time listening in your home to the different surfaces and figure out exactly where you are hearing the sound come from. However, it's certainly not uncommon for concrete buildings to spread sound down the walls as well, as the concrete walls and ceilings are all connected. So basically, if you can only hear it through the ceiling, you only need to soundproof the ceiling. If you can hear it coming out of the walls, you need to soundproof the walls as well.
@@SoundproofingStore thank you for the reply.
Are you saying that two pieces of sound plasterboard will block less sound than one sound plasterboard and one mass loaded vinyl which is 3 or 5 mm?
Hi hn2700 - Thank you for your question. I'm afraid it's not that black and white. It depends on many other factors within the construction. Generally I wouldn't say one board and one sheet of MLV is better than 2 boards, it would be roughly the same but with less space loss. I would say 2 boards with MLV or TecSound in the middle is better than 3 sheets of board, and again certainly thinner.
As a songwriter I could do with reducing vocal frequencies, which is best?
Thanks for the question. All three are effective for vocal frequencies to varying degrees. The ReductoClip Independent Wall system is the highest performing system overall for all frequencies. But to give you the best advice for a specific project it's best to get in touch with us. We can then find out more about the construction of the room and give you the most accurate advice for your situation.
When it comes to the reducto clip system, I’m assuming it’s problematic for a workshop where heavy items need to be attached to the wall, and would normally go into the studs?
Hi, Great question. Not necessarily. The system is able to carry a high level of weight. We can increase the quantity of clips where you need to fix things and fix into the steel furring channels. Alternatively we can replace a layer of plasterboard for a layer of something like Fermacell which still has a high level of mass but can be fixed into anywhere and has a very high weight capacity and pull strength. Finally, if you really are adding a huge amount of weight to the wall and want more peace of mind, we can put together a more bespoke system for your needs.
What's the return detail around an opening for the ReductoClip system? Wouldn't a return to say a window recouple the airborne sound to the structure?
Hi 66davin99 - Thank you for your comment. Actually we don't really recommend to return the system. There is very little point in having a really high performing wall and then having a much lower performing window reducing the sound reduction back down again. If its an external wall and you need to soundproof it to this degree, then what you need to do is install a secondary window internally on the new soundproof wall. Having the mass of the second window and de-coupled from the existing window will give your weak window point a massive upgrade in performance and will also mean not weakening the soundproofing by adding returns in.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank-you. I can see a full design review will be needed beforehand when it comes time to renovate.
Hey :) what is your opinion about greenglue?
Hi @maurice70, this video might be of interest: ruclips.net/video/DJFhAk5Sg6E/видео.html
If I wanted to soundproof a small room that I use mainly for singing (I’m an operatic tenor) would I need to do just the connecting wall to the neighbour (we’re end of terrace) or also the ceiling, floor and other walls?
Hi @LeeJCander, ideally you'd need to build a room within a room and address the walls, floor and ceiling. Along with the doors and any windows. This is the same principle when soundproofing a music studio. (Your voice being the instrument in this case).
Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and a member of the team will happily discuss this with you in more detail. This might also be of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/studio-soundproofing#SolidStructure
@@SoundproofingStore the room in question is already pretty small and must contain my work desk and spare bed. Will the smaller direct to wall panelling work to create the room within a room/floor/ceiling?
@@LeeJCander unfortunately, the ReductoClip Direct to Wall system isn't creating a room within a room. It would need to be the ReductoClip Independent System for this. It's the decoupling from the original structure which is key here. By having the physical airgap it makes it much harder for sound to travel and acts like a sound breaker. It really would be our recommendation that this would be the best possible option given what you require the space for.
Does closed cell foam help to reduce sound?
Thank you.
Hi youknow - It depends on the situation and how its being used, but it can be used within a soundproofing solution yes. We use closed cell foam on a floor to reduce imapct noise, and it can be used on a wall to isolate rigid materials from a surface and add some resilience and dampening. On its own it won't do anything, but as part of a system, it can have benefits.
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you.
Thank you, what is de couple?
@ceciliamccann3146 De-coupling basically means disconnecting. Sound energy / vibration travels through solid materials and can transfer from one material to another if they are connected together. So just adding more material to the wall won't help. You need to add new layers of material to the wall that add a lot more mass, but those layers need to be disconnected from the offending wall. This makes it much harder for the vibration to travel through to your side. This is what our ReductoClip system does, it disconnects (or de-couples) the layers of mass from the structure.
Thank you very much,I really appreciate your help. I will look around the Toronto area and see if I can get any body to do it for me. Were are you located? @@SoundproofingStore
@@ceciliamccann3146 We are based in the UK. If you are based in Toronto try pliteq.com/
I live in a townhouse and my problem is the impact noise I hear from next door when they go up and down the stairs in there house.I dont hear them talking or there tv or radio but I feel the impact when they run or up and down the stairs.
@ceciliamccann3146 That is always a tricky issue to solve i'm afriad. This is all about the vibration energy tarevlling from the steps directly into the wall and then spreading through the structure. The only way to really solve the issue is to dampen the impact at the source. In other words getting the neighbour to install something like our SoundMat 3 onto their stairs ( www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundmat-3-plus ). If not, then you need to de-couple your side of the wall in a way that can dampen that vibration energy. I would recommend our ReductoClip System - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
What about sound proofing for barking dogs in a kennel? I’ve got neighbors and I don’t want them angry with me when I’m at work.
Hi @adebened1981, this blog might be of interest:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundproofing-an-animal-enclosure
How do you close the area of the inner floating wall where it comes to the openign of the windows and doors
Hi LekhaTull, Thank you for your question. So in an ideal world, if you are using this level of system either you have a really bad noise problem or you are building something like a music studio. In which case, our recommendation would be to double the windows and doors. So install a new door frame and door on the new soundproof wall, and again a new secondary window on the new soundproof wall. If not, this sill be a weakness where the sound is still hitting the offending wall via the window and door. If that really isn't an option, then the alternative is to build a reveal using the same layers (2 x acoustic plasterboard and TecSound) onto the side of the stud frame to meet the original window and door. This will close the gap and make it look better, but you will still have the weakness of the window and door effecting your results.
Ithank you for your reply
I am building a music studio
I used clios and hat channels etc to build an inner wall
We have windows and doors in the room
The openings to the windows is my question
How do I transition the wall from the inner wall to the window frame i
In other words , I have 2 layers of wall, how do I close the edges of the wall
Is there an email I could send a photo ?
@@dr.lekhatull5649 I understand the question, my answer above is still accurate to that question, but if you need further detail please pop me an email over. You can get this from our website at www.soundproofingstore.co.uk
Can I order from Romania ?
Hi Mihai Sodolescu, thank you for getting in touch. Unfortunately we don't deliver to Romania.
Would this system work for dog noises like wailing & barking? My neigbour keeps his dog in the room directly next to my bedroom and noise is so loud.
Hi it's everyday 風呂 - I would recommend the highest performing system the independent ReductoClip system to get the best results for loud barking dogs. www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
@@SoundproofingStore Thank you for the advice!
My next door neighbour had a home cinema attached to the party wall 😂 he watches awesome movies. But the base is bonkers.
We don’t want to lose space to put living room, could the system be built into the internal wall?
Hi Orange Turtle - Not quite following the question i'm afraid. If the noise is coming through the shared wall (party wall), then thats the wall you need to soundproof. You then need to follow these tips to improve that walls ability to reduce more sound. Unfrotunately this will mean losing space, there is no way around that. Except getting the next door neighbour to soundrpoof his home cinema properly!
How about a foot of dirt? Cheap and I don't think any sound would penetrate it. Or maybe use sandbags filled with sawdust or ?
Hi @jamescole3152 "Or"... a proven soundproofing solution like the ones featured in the video.
I'm a bit confusing about making wall more dense. Lets take for example a concreate reinforced wall. It is a lot more denser than brick wall. But vibration distribution is a lot better with concreate wall. So in case of your neighbour is heavy bass lover. Concrete wall may play a bad joke with you.
I do understand it is more about vibration insulation rather than sound insulation. But vibrations may also affect your every day comfort a lot.
Hi @IgorYatskiv Yes it can get confusing, sound is very complex and there are many different things to think about. Mass and density is very important, but it's not just about how much mass it's also about where the mass is! If you just keep adding more and more mass directly to the surface because you aren't dealing with the vibration / sound energy you will get very diminishing returns. This is why you need to de-couple the mass so it is separated from the mass of the wall. This now deals with the vibration too and will achieve far better results. So concrete is good for mass but bad for vibration, other materials are good for vibration but bad for mass. We need to figure out what the existing surface is lacking, and fix that problem.
if i apply MLV onto a wall and then a layer of drywall or acoustic plasterboard over it will it improve the noise? specifically for talking and shouting
Hi myphonesucks - It depends on the construction and quality of the existing wall. If its just a light weight stud wall, then yes MLV and plasterboard will help to some degree. It certainly won't block everything out, but it will give an improvement. If its a solid brick wall, then it's unlikely to help. Adding a little more mass to a wall that already has a lot of mass isn't going to make much difference in a lot of cases.
@@SoundproofingStore im not sure what type of wall it is but if it helps when i knock on it it feels solid, but it sounds very thin and sound travels through it making it easy for me to hear conversation
@@crystalcastlesgf for a poorly performing existing wall trying to block conversation, then something like the SoundBoard4 should do a good job. However, because you mention shouting, then a de-coupling system such as the ReductoClip System would achieve a higher performance. De-coupling from the existing wall is also necessary when needing to reduce any unwanted impact noise, or more bass tones from music or even deep voices or snoring (in case you are also hearing these noises too). Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 if we can help further.
show the measurement
Hi Yettamon, do you mean the thickness of the ReductoClip Independent System? This is the slimmest isolation clip and bar solution on the market at only 120mm thick. Further information can be found here:
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
What if I live in a condo or townhouse and my walls are flimsy as heck! Not only that, I am situated on a very very busy street in Toronto... Constant streetcars, buses, garbage trucks ambulances etc etc. How do I even mitigate this? The condominium manager won't even let me replace my windows
Hi me - Unfortunately to soundproof a space you do need to make intrusive changes to the construction of the building. If noise is coming in from outside, the biggest culprit is usually the window, so you need secondary glazing. If the walls are weak construction, you'll need more mass adding or a new de-coupld wall in front. All of these things will need approval from the building management. There are no temporary, easy fixes that are effective.
@@SoundproofingStore my biggest concern right now is that they won't even give me the permission to replace the full window. They said board members have to approve this and so on. Which probably means a big "no". I have sound and draft coming in and they still won't let me replace. Is that even normal for a condominium that won't allow?
@@ineedhelpsoundproofing Unfortunately that's not something I can really advise on. We are UK based, so I'm not familiar with the rules, laws or generaly accepted norms in Toronto. All I can say is there are no easy fixes to the problem. You need to do it properly and this will no doubt require permission. It makes it much more difficult when it's not your own property to do with as you please.
@@SoundproofingStore are there any products you can recommend for my problem? Would greatly appreciated
One important point that every video about soundproofing, including this one, fails to mention, is that your room is as soundproof as it's weakest link. For instance, if we were building a room with only walls, no door or windows, then using all these materials together would make sense. But in reality, we need at the very least one door to access the room, and if that door isn't as soundproof as the walls, then all that money spent on the walls is basically wasted, because while the walls wouldn't let much sound pass through, the door will. And soundproofing a door is actually pretty hard, that's really going to be the weakest link in most scenarios. Even those supper expensive, super heavy doors specifically designed for recording studios, won't come close to match the soundproofing of using two soundproofing plaster boards with MLV and such in the middle, as shown in the video. That would still work for soundproofing between two rooms that aren't directly accessible though. Just something to keep in mind before spending tens of thousands dollars on all these materials.
Hi @HCkev, as you point out party walls separating neighbours are usually a solid wall with no windows or accessible doors. Soundproofing is only as good as the weakest point and any gaps or weaknesses and sound will find a way though. Doors are treated in situations when needed e.g. when soundproofing a music studio or band practice room.
The recommendation would be a double door system, one door fixed to the original wall and another door fixed to the new stud frame. Both doors should be thick, solid core and heavy such as an FD60 rated fire door. There also needs to be a good seal around the frame to make the door air tight when closed. More info on doors here:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-door
Hi
Why do many people say mass is important factor for soundproofing but suggest Drywall ?!
Concrete solid blocks and bricks and metals are much denser so aren't they better options?!
I also wonder why no one suggest several layers of glass for many situation that we need both soundproofing and light even if glass has density more than 2000kg/m3
I guess if we test glass of same thickness to many objects like concrete ,drywall,bricks etc it would have better stc because it's denser but no one talks about!!
Hi @alirezayousefirad, absolutely - the more dense and more mass a material has, the better it will perform at blocking airborne noise. However, mass is only part of successful soundproofing and (as the video states) there also needs to be damping and isolation. This is why the ReductoClip Independent Wall System is such a high performing and popular solution:
More details on the ReductoClip Independent System:
ruclips.net/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/видео.html
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system
Re glass, no party wall between neighbours will be made fully of glass (unless they live in a zoo :)
For music studios for example, the advice is to remove windows and brick them up, or for those customers wanting a window then the recommendation is to double them up and use secondary glazing. It will still be weaker than the rest of the wall, but is a way of keeping natural light.
To use multiple layers of glass to gain the same density as concrete would be extremely expensive.
@@SoundproofingStore it was most kind of you to answer my question
so that system would be good if we hear people running up and down stairs, because they are attached to the wall,
Absolutely, our ReductoClip system is your best option to reduce impact noise on the other side of the wall if you can only treat it on your side. In a perfect world, the best way to stop their impact on the stairs is to soundproof their stairs! But difficult to get the neighbours to take ownership of it sometimes.
What I like to do is cover my walls in moth scales.
You should sell a sound proof bed cover that goes over a sleeping bag
Where i live they are waking us up with sirens 24 hours a day
Its unbearable
Have to rebuild the whole f'n house to have some peace & quiet 🤦♂️
Why they just don't build brick walls 😅
Hi @georgiangelov2764, these are the 3 best ways to soundproof an existing solid brick wall.
Great video
Will hanging a large mirror ( using plasterboard screws) damage the soundproof effect?
Hi 1405fun, it shouldn't make a difference to the performance of the soundproofing. Depending on how heavy the mirror is, please take a look at the below:
www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems