Brian, good discovery work. Monitoring the function of this vent / breather and keeping it clean and free of debris is paramount in reducing costly repairs. Good works! The vent clogs with road grime over time, the oily vapors purging from the Diff when it heats up while driving, especially towing applications or long trips starts to create a film of oil around the air chambers in the vent and becomes a magnet for dust and dirt while driving. Road side dust is mostly sand / silicates and are very abrasive. Thanks for posting.
Brian, thanks for posting this video. I have a 2009 RAV4 that was leaking out the driver axle seal and possibly the passenger side axle. So I dropped the differential down and found the vent to be totally sealed to the differential in the down position. After a lot of messing around with the vent, I finally got it freed up and moving properly. I removed the driver side mount bracket totally so I could get my hand up on top of the differential which made it a lot easier freeing up. Thanks again for the video. Not sure it is a 10 minute fix though, took me quite a bit longer.
Glad it helped! 10 minutes... Ive had guys with real skinny arms get in and out in 5 minutes on this job, others takes 10 minutes and some longer.. 10 minutes is a good average. And then there are the one vent cap that has never been working for years with enough rust on it to make a sailor blush...
@@tothepointvids5192 seems like they advise to place a jack underneath to support the weight...i think it'd be silly to let it drop without anything under..
Thanks, liked and subscribed, 2007 RAV4 just noticed a leak on the floor of my garage a week or so ago. I’m going after your fix tonight, thanks again for your straightforward advice!👍
@@GarageMahalLife I blew it off with 90psi or so. I’m going to stick my camera up there so I can see better what I have. Is that breather replaceable? Don’t what to go after it with pliers and have it crumble. Thanks for your help, Dave.
Thank You very much for the video. Just 1 question if I may. How much movement should the vent cap have going "up", 1/16, 1/10" ? Mine spins freely, but only goes up maybe 1/16 of an inch at most.
Depending on the model, you have a drain plug, low, and a fill drain, high, on the differential. Fill until it starts draining out of the fill plug, then stop. If the model doesn't have a fill and drain plug, you have to unbolt the back plate if the differential, drain and then fill to manufacturers required amount, In which case it will have a fill plug and you just replicate the top process.
Thanks, Brian, I think this is just what ails my RAV4! My son arrived home from school in our 2007 RAV4 after a 12 hour non-stop highway trip. Parked the car and went to sleep. In the morning, I moved the RAV and found about 1/4 cup of oil on the floor and found leaks on the two rear differential drive seals (that go to the rear CV joints). I was fearing a big job replacing seals but I think this fits exactly what you describe, as the leaks stopped after the car sat for a bit. I placed some cardboard under the differential and haven't seen another drop, even after a couple of days, which makes sense if it's expansion related. I'm going to do a fluid exchange on it after I'm done to make sure it's topped off, as we have 160K miles and want to make sure we have a good handle on the fluid level. Do you know what oil weight Toyota calls for? Any recommendations on specific brand? Thanks again! Paul S.
Yes, sounds exactly the problem, if you have it leaking from more than 1 spot... almost always a clogged vent. Use amzn.to/2J9Tnfm they recommend a 75w 85...
My 1968 Fastback has a Nodular 9" rear end. It simply has a long hose attached to a tube on the diff (a factory threaded hose barb to be exact). The other end of the hose is tucked high above and behind the diff in part of the frame rails. As a result, water cannot enter. Why not do the same with this diff?
I have an 06 kia spectra5 5 speed manual and replaced the differential seals at 240k miles because they were starting to drip fluid, well about 50k miles later they are leaking again, atleast the driver side is and I noticed my rubber breather cap is torn and kinda mangled, not sure if it's clogged or not functioning properly so hopefully when I replace it the leak will stop. It's a front wheel drive so luckily it's really easy to access. Thanks for the info
But I got the lift installed and the kit for $3000. I could have saved $400 and installed myself, but for $400, geez, let them do it. Pre-2020 prices...
Nice! And to me that looked like a home garage. But very nice. Is there a minimum requirement on depth of cement if installing that type of lift? And yeah for $400 let them take care of it.
@@FueledByRyan0 6inches is a bare min. For the depth. 9 to 12 inches of concrete is ideal, but it gets $$$. I run a private garage and RUclips a lot of the repairs. Sonit is at my house.
If you feel brave enough, grab a wrench and remove the diff breather and soak in brake cleaner or a better choice Spray 9 cleaner. The blockage of this breather is causing 100's of 1000's of $$ in UN-necessary repairs of many brands of vehicles, and most repair shops do not pass on the root cause of all failures related to this axle seal, bearing replacement and in some cases diff and axle replacement.
I can't appreciate enough of this video. THANK YOU! I just started to develop this leak on my 2010 RAV4. (I was first told by the Toyota service last week, during my oil change). They quoted $800 and I said NO. Came home and started to look for a youtube video on this. I don't have a lift like you, but I jacked up the rear end, and put my hand over the difficase and looked for the vent cap. It was difficult to get to, but I could just touch it. And YES it's seized up. I'll do what you mentioned here. Do you think I'll have enough room to do this while the vehicle is on the jack stand? Do I have to remove the propeller shaft that goes to the rear diff?
If you take out the 4 support bolts that hold the dif. The axle and drive shaft will it in place and you will have plenty of room to get a pair of plyers on it to twist it back and forth to unseize. Keep spraying WD40 up into the bottom of it as best as you can. Make sure you top the rear up after you free the vent. :D and save yourself 800$
@@GarageMahalLife 1 year update on this repair. In short, yes it was the vent cap. After watching this video, I decided to do this first before spending any money on it. Jacked up the rear end, and Unbolted 4 support bolts like you said (I didn't take out any driveshaft /CV axle). I pulled down the diff box just enough until I could get my wrench on the breather valve. I wiggled it a bit, and got it freed up. not too difficult. Then I opened the rear diff fill plug, and added oil until it was flowing out of the fill hole. I only had to put in little bit - may be about 1/4 quarts. About 1 week later, I noticed there was bit of oil on the bottom of the diff box. I wasn't sure if I overfilled or the seal was indeed damaged, and leaking.... because I filled while the rear end of the car was lifted.. I might have overfilled it. 4 weeks later, there seemed to be no more oil on the bottom of the diff box. Then 1 year later, I had a chance to put my RAV4 on a lift. I asked the mechanic to unscrewed the rear diff fill hole and check the fluid level. The diff was *almost* full of oil, indicating the seal was good. So in recap, all I had to do is to free the vent cap. Cost $0. Fixed. Other people who's reading this : check your diff vent cap first before you spend any money.
@@GarageMahalLife This is definitely helpful!! Thank you for the video. I have a 2012 Toyota Rav4 and at my oil change today, they listed as "Requires Immediate Attention: rear differential seals are moist (leaking)". Cost would be in the $920 range - YIKES!! Does it matter if there is no actual leakage falling to the ground?
@@silentobserver1106 Yes and no... clear the vent and add differential fluid. The leaking should stop after the vent is open and clear after a day or so. If not feel free to email me Brian.niskala@cnjrail.com
hey thanks for posting this. I'm having this problem right now on my rav4. I noticed the problem when the 4WD light came on after I drove it on the highway and was on my way back from the junkyard (so after I turned it off and restarted it). I was able to get a needle nose vise grip up there without taking anything apart to free it up and I was able to turn it but not completely around. Its snowing over here now so when it goes away I'll probably go try again, but I do have a couple questions. I filled it up with fluid and dried it off as best as I could. Decided to start it to take it around the block to see if at least the 4WD light would go away, but it is still there. When I got home, I just peaked under to see if there was a leak and it looks like it may still be. So, if the vent is bad/seized would it start to leak right away? And what exactly does the 4WD light detect? -Eric
If the vent doesnt move or spin around and up and down slightly it maybe still stuck closed. You actually could have failed seal as well.The 4wd indicates if the senor sees the gears moving in the 4 wheel drive system. If it doesnt detect anything it may blink or go out. The 4 wheel drive actuator could not be working... there could be a bunch of things, but those are the main things to look for.
@@GarageMahalLife Thanks for the response Brian! I'll get back under there when it gets a little better outside and free up the vent some more. I was thinking the same thing about the seals, but hopefully they are alright. I'll let you know what happens, thanks again.
@@GarageMahalLife Just to update what happened: turns out the driveshaft is gone! I bought this a little over a month ago off I guy getting rid of it. He must've removed the driveshaft because of this problem and I overlooked it when I was down there before, this explains why the 4wd came on. I did end up freeing up the vent though and got it to move up and down. I've driven it about 100 miles now, no leaks! Eventually I'll put a drive shaft in to see if the 4x4 works, but 2wd is all I really need right now. Again, thanks for posting this video and for your reply!
Basically... if you sprayvsome wd40 down the tube and make sure it doesn't flow out the vent, you are good. If it still leaks, then you may actually have to replace the seals.
Thanks for the video! I was able to get the vent to jiggle/rattle. It was completely seized. However, it doesn’t rotate and keep spinning. Is this good enough for venting purposes, or does it need to be able to spin?
Does it open and close? Spinning not necessarily, but it does need to open and close you can spray some WD40 in the end and see if it sprays out or stays in...
@@GarageMahalLife Hi Brian, thanks for posting. To clarify, open and close means the cap moves up and down? Do the seals need to be reseated somehow after the vent is freed? Or will they continue to keep weeping? Thanks!
Hmmm, maybe that has been my problem the last 2 years. I've had a leak and have to put more oil in every 2 hrs of driving is about 1 jug. I thought it was the pinion seal so I changed that 3 times now. Also, since the oil ran dry twice on me I had to replace the pinion bearings and races twice. I thought maybe it was the splines on the pinion and yoke not being sealed properly so I tried 3 different sealants. I'm getting pretty good at taking it all apart and replacing parts and putting it back together but for the life of me I cant stop the leak. I put an inspection scope into the fill hole and shine a light all around the pumpkin and yoke and there isnt any light showing a porosity hole. I'm baffled right now. The vent hose isnt very difficult to remove from the pumpkin without squeezing the clamp open so maybe the hose is bad at the base? Idk, but I am really sick of buying oil and crawling under the vehicle to add more. Any ideas? Thx
I've seen a bug larvae get stuck in vent hoses before... I'd remove the vent/hose and clean it all out. Or spray wd40 down the vent hose and see if it leaks into the pumpkin, if it does it is venting and clear. Make sure you drain all the fluid out afterwards to flush it all clean.
Dude its obviously like the other seals. There are a bunch. You should replace all seals. There are seals all over that thing. And use actual seals if they make them instead of gasket maker
If its leaking and has no oil in it does it make it so the vihicle can not move? O have a problem with my 2008 toyta rav4. Bitch did a pop and lock and not in a good way and now i can get it to move. Its not the engine or transmission at all. Im beside myself..
Hard to tell from your text, but I could very well be the rear dif. Unfortunately if it is at the point where it will not move, then it has locked and seized. So just adding fluid would make little difference if this is what in fact happened. What gear oil... you have to Google your year model, rear dif fluid. It will vary from year to year and model to model.
I know this is an older vid so hopefully I can get some advice. I dropped my diff today and no matter what I tried I couldn't get a "cap" to loosen. I'm beginning to think that either my cap is so, totally rusted or that it's missing. I can feel the too of the vent and it appears to be slightly concave, but solid....I checked with a small 90 degree pick. I really don't want to deal with axle removal but I'm thinking heat might be the solution. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the rear, floor. Questions: Is the vent removable? Is the cap available separately? Anyone else use a torch to heat? I'd have to drain the diff to prevent pressure build up if I go that route. I have a pic but no way to post hear. Looks like one solid piece...like a top hat sitting on a washer shaped base. Any advice is appreciated!
I've seen the rust off and almost rust themselves on. Get some of those telescoping mirrors to get a better "eye" on it. Heat, I would drain it completely. They have that 105 Reseal that you can add, email me Brian.niskala@cnjrail.com I can get you the link. Worse case, you can cut a small notch with a long sawsaw blade to relieve the pressure, just avoid deep water over the axles forever...
The caps do "rust off" use a mirror to see if you can see into the differential, if not you can use a cut off wheel or flexible Dremel tool, once open, drain the dif fluid, refill with fresh to get all the grinding bits out. Get rubber tubing to make a snorkel/new vent and mount it higher into the body and on top of the new dif opening.
@GarageMahalLife I wrote a reply a while ago to say that I did exactly as you describe 👍. Found it in another RUclips vid. Unfortunately, my reply wouldn't post.
The vent is push in. Mine broke off because of corrosion. I cut a hole in the floor pan of the rear hatch area because working from underneath is nearly impossible.
I dont get how it will blow the gaskets with a blocked vent then everyone thinks that the seals will magically not leak after the vent is able to vent again
The air pressure that builds up due to the friction and not being able to vent, pushed the dif. Oil out... when vented the pressure is able to equalize and the seals settle back to shape.
It sucks that this stupid vet gets blocked and let's no air out when It heats up the fliud and it blows the seals on the diff. Or forces seepage on axle seals temporarily until vent is fixed. What a joke.
@@GarageMahalLife thanks man for answering people; quick one. Do think its possible to use a wrench and wiggle the vent cap. Or just take it off without dropping the rear diff? I'm thinking it needs to be dropped no exceptions
@@Iahusha777Iahuah You can get in there if you have skinner arms, I sprayed it down with WD40, let it soak for a while and then wiggled it with a pair of long nose players. It will come loose...
Brian, good discovery work. Monitoring the function of this vent / breather and keeping it clean and free of debris is paramount in reducing costly repairs. Good works! The vent clogs with road grime over time, the oily vapors purging from the Diff when it heats up while driving, especially towing applications or long trips starts to create a film of oil around the air chambers in the vent and becomes a magnet for dust and dirt while driving. Road side dust is mostly sand / silicates and are very abrasive. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for watching!
Brian, thanks for posting this video. I have a 2009 RAV4 that was leaking out the driver axle seal and possibly the passenger side axle. So I dropped the differential down and found the vent to be totally sealed to the differential in the down position. After a lot of messing around with the vent, I finally got it freed up and moving properly. I removed the driver side mount bracket totally so I could get my hand up on top of the differential which made it a lot easier freeing up. Thanks again for the video. Not sure it is a 10 minute fix though, took me quite a bit longer.
Glad it helped! 10 minutes... Ive had guys with real skinny arms get in and out in 5 minutes on this job, others takes 10 minutes and some longer.. 10 minutes is a good average. And then there are the one vent cap that has never been working for years with enough rust on it to make a sailor blush...
Is it safe to drop the differential or it can bend the shaft under its own weight not supported? Or did you need to support it some how
Thanks
@@tothepointvids5192 seems like they advise to place a jack underneath to support the weight...i think it'd be silly to let it drop without anything under..
I don’t have access to a lift, is this doable on car jacks? Or is it worth it to bring it into an auto shop instead to not deal with the hassle?
You can absolutely get this on car stands. The angle will be a bit weird, but do able.
Thanks, liked and subscribed, 2007 RAV4 just noticed a leak on the floor of my garage a week or so ago. I’m going after your fix tonight, thanks again for your straightforward advice!👍
You are welcome, Thank you!
@@GarageMahalLife keep up the great work!👍
I’m not sure my 07 has a breather valve. I fell something that feels like a threaded bolt. Same thing?
@@davekana8388 if it is I. The middle if the dif at the top, yes, they rust weld all the time if nit maintained. ..
@@GarageMahalLife I blew it off with 90psi or so. I’m going to stick my camera up there so I can see better what I have. Is that breather replaceable? Don’t what to go after it with pliers and have it crumble.
Thanks for your help, Dave.
Thank You very much for the video. Just 1 question if I may.
How much movement should the vent cap have going "up", 1/16, 1/10" ?
Mine spins freely, but only goes up maybe 1/16 of an inch at most.
I like to see at least 1mm of upward movement, but more so a bit of a "wobble" and you know it has proper movement.
Great tip! How do I know how much fluid to put in? My understanding is that overfilling is something to be avoided
Depending on the model, you have a drain plug, low, and a fill drain, high, on the differential. Fill until it starts draining out of the fill plug, then stop. If the model doesn't have a fill and drain plug, you have to unbolt the back plate if the differential, drain and then fill to manufacturers required amount, In which case it will have a fill plug and you just replicate the top process.
@@GarageMahalLife thank you
Thanks, Brian, I think this is just what ails my RAV4! My son arrived home from school in our 2007 RAV4 after a 12 hour non-stop highway trip. Parked the car and went to sleep. In the morning, I moved the RAV and found about 1/4 cup of oil on the floor and found leaks on the two rear differential drive seals (that go to the rear CV joints). I was fearing a big job replacing seals but I think this fits exactly what you describe, as the leaks stopped after the car sat for a bit. I placed some cardboard under the differential and haven't seen another drop, even after a couple of days, which makes sense if it's expansion related.
I'm going to do a fluid exchange on it after I'm done to make sure it's topped off, as we have 160K miles and want to make sure we have a good handle on the fluid level. Do you know what oil weight Toyota calls for? Any recommendations on specific brand?
Thanks again! Paul S.
Yes, sounds exactly the problem, if you have it leaking from more than 1 spot... almost always a clogged vent. Use amzn.to/2J9Tnfm they recommend a 75w 85...
Let me guess you realized the leaks didn't go away. And when you topped it off it leaked again. Blown seals don't go away.
My 1968 Fastback has a Nodular 9" rear end. It simply has a long hose attached to a tube on the diff (a factory threaded hose barb to be exact). The other end of the hose is tucked high above and behind the diff in part of the frame rails. As a result, water cannot enter. Why not do the same with this diff?
Right... should be that way on all vehicles
@@GarageMahalLife Do you think that would save/protect a still good diff?
I have an 06 kia spectra5 5 speed manual and replaced the differential seals at 240k miles because they were starting to drip fluid, well about 50k miles later they are leaking again, atleast the driver side is and I noticed my rubber breather cap is torn and kinda mangled, not sure if it's clogged or not functioning properly so hopefully when I replace it the leak will stop. It's a front wheel drive so luckily it's really easy to access. Thanks for the info
Thank you for watching, but that sounds like your issue with the leak...
Thanks for the vid! How much did you spend to put that lift in your garage?
The building, the 9+"cement or just the lift?
But I got the lift installed and the kit for $3000. I could have saved $400 and installed myself, but for $400, geez, let them do it. Pre-2020 prices...
Nice! And to me that looked like a home garage. But very nice. Is there a minimum requirement on depth of cement if installing that type of lift? And yeah for $400 let them take care of it.
@@FueledByRyan0 6inches is a bare min. For the depth. 9 to 12 inches of concrete is ideal, but it gets $$$. I run a private garage and RUclips a lot of the repairs. Sonit is at my house.
This is enlightening. May i ask, can i spray some cleaners, like wd40 on the vent?
Yes, absolutely to help loosen it, WD40 works great.
If you feel brave enough, grab a wrench and remove the diff breather and soak in brake cleaner or a better choice Spray 9 cleaner. The blockage of this breather is causing 100's of 1000's of $$ in UN-necessary repairs of many brands of vehicles, and most repair shops do not pass on the root cause of all failures related to this axle seal, bearing replacement and in some cases diff and axle replacement.
Also what do you fill it with? Oil? What? Is there actual rear differential fluid?
Rear dif fluid.
How about cutting an access hole in the sheet metal above the diff?
On some models you could
I can't appreciate enough of this video. THANK YOU!
I just started to develop this leak on my 2010 RAV4. (I was first told by the Toyota service last week, during my oil change). They quoted $800 and I said NO. Came home and started to look for a youtube video on this. I don't have a lift like you, but I jacked up the rear end, and put my hand over the difficase and looked for the vent cap. It was difficult to get to, but I could just touch it. And YES it's seized up.
I'll do what you mentioned here. Do you think I'll have enough room to do this while the vehicle is on the jack stand? Do I have to remove the propeller shaft that goes to the rear diff?
If you take out the 4 support bolts that hold the dif. The axle and drive shaft will it in place and you will have plenty of room to get a pair of plyers on it to twist it back and forth to unseize. Keep spraying WD40 up into the bottom of it as best as you can. Make sure you top the rear up after you free the vent. :D and save yourself 800$
@@GarageMahalLife 1 year update on this repair. In short, yes it was the vent cap.
After watching this video, I decided to do this first before spending any money on it.
Jacked up the rear end, and Unbolted 4 support bolts like you said (I didn't take out any driveshaft /CV axle). I pulled down the diff box just enough until I could get my wrench on the breather valve. I wiggled it a bit, and got it freed up. not too difficult.
Then I opened the rear diff fill plug, and added oil until it was flowing out of the fill hole. I only had to put in little bit - may be about 1/4 quarts.
About 1 week later, I noticed there was bit of oil on the bottom of the diff box. I wasn't sure if I overfilled or the seal was indeed damaged, and leaking.... because I filled while the rear end of the car was lifted.. I might have overfilled it.
4 weeks later, there seemed to be no more oil on the bottom of the diff box.
Then 1 year later, I had a chance to put my RAV4 on a lift. I asked the mechanic to unscrewed the rear diff fill hole and check the fluid level. The diff was *almost* full of oil, indicating the seal was good.
So in recap, all I had to do is to free the vent cap. Cost $0. Fixed.
Other people who's reading this : check your diff vent cap first before you spend any money.
@@GarageMahalLife This is definitely helpful!! Thank you for the video. I have a 2012 Toyota Rav4 and at my oil change today, they listed as "Requires Immediate Attention: rear differential seals are moist (leaking)". Cost would be in the $920 range - YIKES!!
Does it matter if there is no actual leakage falling to the ground?
@@silentobserver1106 Yes and no... clear the vent and add differential fluid. The leaking should stop after the vent is open and clear after a day or so. If not feel free to email me Brian.niskala@cnjrail.com
@@jwc3104 @Brian E. Niskala what is the torque setting for the 4 support bolts when putting it back on??
hey thanks for posting this.
I'm having this problem right now on my rav4. I noticed the problem when the 4WD light came on after I drove it on the highway and was on my way back from the junkyard (so after I turned it off and restarted it). I was able to get a needle nose vise grip up there without taking anything apart to free it up and I was able to turn it but not completely around. Its snowing over here now so when it goes away I'll probably go try again, but I do have a couple questions.
I filled it up with fluid and dried it off as best as I could. Decided to start it to take it around the block to see if at least the 4WD light would go away, but it is still there. When I got home, I just peaked under to see if there was a leak and it looks like it may still be. So, if the vent is bad/seized would it start to leak right away? And what exactly does the 4WD light detect?
-Eric
If the vent doesnt move or spin around and up and down slightly it maybe still stuck closed. You actually could have failed seal as well.The 4wd indicates if the senor sees the gears moving in the 4 wheel drive system. If it doesnt detect anything it may blink or go out. The 4 wheel drive actuator could not be working... there could be a bunch of things, but those are the main things to look for.
@@GarageMahalLife Thanks for the response Brian! I'll get back under there when it gets a little better outside and free up the vent some more. I was thinking the same thing about the seals, but hopefully they are alright. I'll let you know what happens, thanks again.
@@GarageMahalLife
Just to update what happened: turns out the driveshaft is gone! I bought this a little over a month ago off I guy getting rid of it. He must've removed the driveshaft because of this problem and I overlooked it when I was down there before, this explains why the 4wd came on. I did end up freeing up the vent though and got it to move up and down. I've driven it about 100 miles now, no leaks! Eventually I'll put a drive shaft in to see if the 4x4 works, but 2wd is all I really need right now. Again, thanks for posting this video and for your reply!
@@xxerock92 Glad it all worked out! Be safe and Thank You!
so as long as the little vent cap thing can move up and down and rotate free then it's working?
Basically... if you sprayvsome wd40 down the tube and make sure it doesn't flow out the vent, you are good. If it still leaks, then you may actually have to replace the seals.
Thanks for the video! I was able to get the vent to jiggle/rattle. It was completely seized. However, it doesn’t rotate and keep spinning. Is this good enough for venting purposes, or does it need to be able to spin?
Does it open and close? Spinning not necessarily, but it does need to open and close you can spray some WD40 in the end and see if it sprays out or stays in...
@@GarageMahalLife Hi Brian, thanks for posting. To clarify, open and close means the cap moves up and down? Do the seals need to be reseated somehow after the vent is freed? Or will they continue to keep weeping? Thanks!
Hmmm, maybe that has been my problem the last 2 years. I've had a leak and have to put more oil in every 2 hrs of driving is about 1 jug. I thought it was the pinion seal so I changed that 3 times now. Also, since the oil ran dry twice on me I had to replace the pinion bearings and races twice. I thought maybe it was the splines on the pinion and yoke not being sealed properly so I tried 3 different sealants. I'm getting pretty good at taking it all apart and replacing parts and putting it back together but for the life of me I cant stop the leak. I put an inspection scope into the fill hole and shine a light all around the pumpkin and yoke and there isnt any light showing a porosity hole. I'm baffled right now. The vent hose isnt very difficult to remove from the pumpkin without squeezing the clamp open so maybe the hose is bad at the base? Idk, but I am really sick of buying oil and crawling under the vehicle to add more. Any ideas? Thx
I've seen a bug larvae get stuck in vent hoses before... I'd remove the vent/hose and clean it all out. Or spray wd40 down the vent hose and see if it leaks into the pumpkin, if it does it is venting and clear. Make sure you drain all the fluid out afterwards to flush it all clean.
Dude its obviously like the other seals. There are a bunch. You should replace all seals. There are seals all over that thing. And use actual seals if they make them instead of gasket maker
Sooo, if the vent is free it should move up and down?
Correct and spin freely
@@GarageMahalLife not rust welded like mine, car came from Pittsburgh.
If I’m going to do this i’m going to replace the vent with a hose going up into the car’s interior because the vent will just crust up again.
Yup
Lookin a bit different than my 1998 Rav4.. couldn’t seem to find that vent either. What year is this thing, looks early 2000’s
All suvs have vents to prevent seal leaks, it maybe caked under grease and rust...
I believe this vent is also replaceable. I also think Toyota has an upgraded part that is less prone to this problem
Good tip
Thanks for all
Thank you for commenting ☺️ and watching
If its leaking and has no oil in it does it make it so the vihicle can not move? O have a problem with my 2008 toyta rav4. Bitch did a pop and lock and not in a good way and now i can get it to move. Its not the engine or transmission at all. Im beside myself..
Hard to tell from your text, but I could very well be the rear dif. Unfortunately if it is at the point where it will not move, then it has locked and seized. So just adding fluid would make little difference if this is what in fact happened. What gear oil... you have to Google your year model, rear dif fluid. It will vary from year to year and model to model.
Is there a vent on a 2016 Honda CR-V
Most vehicles have this vent...
I know this is an older vid so hopefully I can get some advice.
I dropped my diff today and no matter what I tried I couldn't get a "cap" to loosen.
I'm beginning to think that either my cap is so, totally rusted or that it's missing. I can feel the too of the vent and it appears to be slightly concave, but solid....I checked with a small 90 degree pick.
I really don't want to deal with axle removal but I'm thinking heat might be the solution. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the rear, floor.
Questions: Is the vent removable? Is the cap available separately? Anyone else use a torch to heat? I'd have to drain the diff to prevent pressure build up if I go that route.
I have a pic but no way to post hear. Looks like one solid piece...like a top hat sitting on a washer shaped base. Any advice is appreciated!
I've seen the rust off and almost rust themselves on. Get some of those telescoping mirrors to get a better "eye" on it. Heat, I would drain it completely. They have that 105 Reseal that you can add, email me Brian.niskala@cnjrail.com I can get you the link. Worse case, you can cut a small notch with a long sawsaw blade to relieve the pressure, just avoid deep water over the axles forever...
The caps do "rust off" use a mirror to see if you can see into the differential, if not you can use a cut off wheel or flexible Dremel tool, once open, drain the dif fluid, refill with fresh to get all the grinding bits out. Get rubber tubing to make a snorkel/new vent and mount it higher into the body and on top of the new dif opening.
@GarageMahalLife
I wrote a reply a while ago to say that I did exactly as you describe 👍. Found it in another RUclips vid. Unfortunately, my reply wouldn't post.
Brian hi, where are you located? I need check my car please.
I'm in Blakeslee, PA currently
Does a Chevy equinox have this
Almost all vehicles will have a vent of some kind...
Unlike American brands there's variation in some Toyota same year models not just trim and engine size and 2/ 4W
VINs are soooo important!
Thanks! Anybody know the part #s for the fill and drain plugs? I'm going to do this but I'd like to replace them as they're in pretty bad shape
Definitely a vin specific... call your local dealer with the vin for the part numbers, they probably aren't too $$ of a part.
I have a 2012 cts and mine only leaks on long trips. This is probably it.
Most of the time yes! Thank you for watching and be safe out there!
Just cleaned my diff vent, hopefully that solves the axle seal seeping problem found out when I re did my breaks
Works 98% of the time 😀 thank you for watching and commenting
@@GarageMahalLife thank God, I do not wanna pull my Axle out😳 Ill keep an eye on it and buy seals and some fluid just Incase
@@NorthCountryOutlaw Not a job any of us are fond of that's for sure.
Has anyone taken the vent off? Does screw in or is it pushed in. The vents I look up for this says it doesn’t fit my 2012 rav.
I've never had to remove one. However you would have drop the differential down to be able to get to it.
The vent is push in. Mine broke off because of corrosion. I cut a hole in the floor pan of the rear hatch area because working from underneath is nearly impossible.
Thank you for your informative video
Thank you for watching and commenting 😀
Thank you boss
You are welcome, I'm here to help
Either way it comes down to how trust worthy is your mechanic ? in your own mind
I have never met such a person
I dont get how it will blow the gaskets with a blocked vent then everyone thinks that the seals will magically not leak after the vent is able to vent again
The air pressure that builds up due to the friction and not being able to vent, pushed the dif. Oil out... when vented the pressure is able to equalize and the seals settle back to shape.
@@GarageMahalLife ya I forgot that the axle seals can leak under pressure and not leak when pressure is gone
It sucks that this stupid vet gets blocked and let's no air out when It heats up the fliud and it blows the seals on the diff. Or forces seepage on axle seals temporarily until vent is fixed. What a joke.
This video alone has helped hundreds of people, and yes this is what happens. Rubber seals are flexible and under pressure will let fluid out...
Again I forgot the axle seals can leak under pressure. You didn't say axle seals often you said seals
@@Iahusha777Iahuah Axle seal... differential seal... all will leak if that vent isn't free and clear.
@@GarageMahalLife thanks man for answering people; quick one. Do think its possible to use a wrench and wiggle the vent cap. Or just take it off without dropping the rear diff? I'm thinking it needs to be dropped no exceptions
@@Iahusha777Iahuah You can get in there if you have skinner arms, I sprayed it down with WD40, let it soak for a while and then wiggled it with a pair of long nose players. It will come loose...