PPl-1 is Polly lube grease and the closest to it is marine grease. HPG-1 grease is a thicker, water resistant grease. Close to Phil wood grease And CL-1 chain lube is a semi-wet type of grease best for dry/wet conditions
Thx for the product display, nice to see the basics and new items from Park. Never ever needed antiseize on a regularly maintained bike, wether road or MTB, cyclocros, etc. But great for bikes that spend many years before maintenantce or left outside or used seaside, that antiseize can be a blessing!
Also on basically every car site, with lots of really bad advice by "Well that's how my dad did it and it works for me so by golly that's how I do it" types. A dead giveaway is when they say to use anti-seize on brake caliper pins, or that greasing fastener threads doesn't affect torque settings. Do NOT listen to anyone who says that.
In other oils and lubricrants: I service my fork with motorbike suspension oil and ATF* from the car parts store and hydraulic grease from a tractor and digger place. I'm sure enough it's the same stuff that Rockshox sells. Except only about ⅒ the price. *I have a 2001 SID which requires a small amount of Red Rum, I use ATF for that. I dont think you need this on more modern forks.
The only part of my touring bike that needs grease regularly is the thru axle on the front wheel. I have been using boat trailer bearing grease and have not had any issues.
Also, DualCo long nozzles (4") for their grease guns (like the Park Tool one) are incredibly useful, but horrendously expensive, & rare. What about sourcing these for the grease gun? I'd buy 2.
Love Park Tool products. Thanks guys. I grew up riding in the 80s when mail order catalogs were on news print and there was no local shop. I ordered from a little family business down the road called Performance. How times have changed. All that to say, you can get perfectly suitable automotive or industrial alternatives to most bicycle stuff down at the farm supply store or hardware store. But you can also easily order bike specific stuff online today.
For the past several years I've been using White Lightning Crystal grease. It's silicone based and has been good for wheel and steering bearings and anything else, such as the saddle stem to prevent it from sticking in the seat tube. When it comes to cleaning the ball bearings for re-greasing, it won't clean off with citrus cleaners. It's advantage is that it's waterproof, so if you do much riding in wet conditions, it won't wash out.
I wish Park made a grease at NLGI 3 for the bottom steering bearings. I've seen too many of those rust way to nothing because the grease washed away. A heavier product would be a good idea, and you don't worry about speed (much) on a steering bearing.
I feel like not all nlgi 2 greases are the same. I heard good stuff from Motorex 2000 but for water ingress, marine grease like the blue waterproof grease grease from maxima should do you good.
You'll find if you look that this never used to happen to 90/00s bikes. They didn't have sealed bearings so water could just drain out the bottom. Modern bikes have retarded stems with 4 or more holes in them to direct water straight onto the steerer tube. Then the water fills up on top of your "sealed" bearings
@@janeblogs324 not to critisize you as I do know old shimano square taper bbs were amazing at sealing water but I had never had issues with my steerer/headset having water. Sidenote, I think people should repack their sealed bearings, people just don't do it because nowhere says it's necessarry or good, but manufacturers don't use high quality grease either to save up cost.
Boat trailer marine wheel bearing grease for wheel, BB and headset bearings? Made for severe service, possible water intrusion, has anti corrosion ingredients. What’s not to like?
Between my bike and car lubes, greases, threadlock & anti-seize I probably have most of these in one form or another, under other brand names. One of the few that I have is the "honey" stuff that's very light grease that basically turns into lube upon use. But isn't it basically what silicone car brake grease is?
If only you guys would put out tech nerdy specs on those about what's inside, what temperature they handle and how it's comparing to other types of grease, the world of bike related internet would be much easier
Have had a tube of PPL-1 for about 4 or 5 years and it seems that it will never run out of grease, is there a double bottom in the tube? Anyways, great stuff!
Must be a location thing. In the states the standard is red (high strength) and blue (medium strength). Green varies from company to company but is typically a penetrating compound
SAC should not be used for that. ASC or grease can be used and in some cases a bearing retainer like RC-1 is needed. Most Full suspension companies have a diagram of the frame which calls out the surface prep at each bore. There are some that have a different prep from one bore to the next so it is important to look at manufacturer recommendations.
I'd like to petition park tool to create and upgraded version of their standard polylube. Lithium complex greases are much less resistant to water and salt than aluminum or calcium soap based greases. Cheaper greases are also intended for higher temps like in truck bearings, whereas a bicycle needs to operate below -50 degrees F (as I sometimes do). Please see "jet-lube arctic" for the optimal grease formula to use
Our polylube is a polyurea grease. It has an optimal temp range for most bicycle applications and lasts 3-5 times as long as a lithium complex grease would. It is more resistant to wetting and is used in many sealed for life applications. If you want a wider temp range our HPG-1 has a wider temp range and is still a polyurea based grease. It is a different formula that is not as resistent to wetting. but in most applications that a bike sees, a polyurea grease is a top notch option. If low temp is your goal there are specifically formulated greases in many base types for that application.
Any of those are good. Not dry is the important things. If you are able to fully tighten, anti-seize is good, but the service removable thread locker such as TLR-1 if you must use less torque.
Excellent video. Now it would be very useful if you would show us dumbheads where and when to apply grease in a new video and what type of grease you use where, more specific. Show us please how you grease all greasable bike parts. 😅
ASC-1 would keep it quite for longer than most grease but would not eliminate it. A creak in a pressfit is typically due to some tolerance out out of roundness between the bottom bracket and shell. RC-1 is typically the best solution for a creaky bottom bracket
@@parktool Nothing out of round on a new Rocky Mountain Instinct frame i hope. Creak only happens coming down from a wheelie and slam on the front brake to do a pivot. Stuff like that. I'll assume the proper grease wasn't used when i got my last maintenance check. Thanks for the reply Park Tool! Love your vids!
You have rounded out the tool fitting in the bolt hed? If that is so, then RC-1 will not help. If these cases, use a new wrench and push down with force as you turn to loosen it. If one bolt come out, you can turn the entire caliper body counter-clockwise to also help free the bolt.
@@parktool I took it to mean that the female threads of the post mount are stripped. In which case the solution is installing a Helicoil (with threadlocker).
The thought behind using Teflon tape is to seal out moisture, take up space/tolerance between Interior and exterior threads as well as to create a long lasting barrier. None of which are bad things. Anti seize will will do most of them. Grease will as well but may not last as long(we are talking many many years of use here). They all provide some lubricity to help get the threads up to tension to create the friction needed to hold. Grease has been the go to for many years with great success. Anti seize has also been used for many years with great success. Teflon tape is a decent option as well that can make up for some tolerance issues as well.
Id suggest something with a thinner viscosity but a computer expert may be your best bet on this one and not the bike experts. Wish I knew more about keyboards!
In our experience, they do not. It's thought that the taper is so tight that no air or moisture can get in so there is no way for a galvanic reaction to take place. Not greasing is a practice that comes from the component manufacturers and from their experience overtime and predictability in future repairs. If the world were perfectly predictable, grease would be suggested.
Tubes of grease are just future landfill. Tubs are more recyclable (cardboard, tin, PET lid). Park Tool should be investigating low impact packaging, like Shimano is doing.
I don't get why in some threaded bottom brackets they use basically blue loctite and in others anti-seize grease, can someone explain? Looks contradictory for me 🤷🏻♂️
The primary thing a bottom bracket needs is simply enough pre-load on the parts from tightening them. Thread locker is a liquid so does have some lubrication properties as it is tightened. It dries and hardens, and expands somewhat. That will be additional security but typically not needed. Anti-seize stays put well in water, and if parts are tight, will stay tight. Thread locker will be a bit more work to take apart.
this would be much more helpful if the grease was referred to as the specific grease type versus the Park Tool specific model numbers
PPl-1 is Polly lube grease and the closest to it is marine grease.
HPG-1 grease is a thicker, water resistant grease. Close to Phil wood grease
And CL-1 chain lube is a semi-wet type of grease best for dry/wet conditions
You raise a legitimate point, however this is a marketing video for Park Tool so would not help them sell their branded product.
The sudden SILICA was unexpected and terrifying. Well done, gentlemen.
Thx for the product display, nice to see the basics and new items from Park. Never ever needed antiseize on a regularly maintained bike, wether road or MTB, cyclocros, etc. But great for bikes that spend many years before maintenantce or left outside or used seaside, that antiseize can be a blessing!
There's a very interesting thread on the bikeforums bicycle mechanics subforum about greases vs anti-seize compounds vs threadlockers.
Also on basically every car site, with lots of really bad advice by "Well that's how my dad did it and it works for me so by golly that's how I do it" types.
A dead giveaway is when they say to use anti-seize on brake caliper pins, or that greasing fastener threads doesn't affect torque settings. Do NOT listen to anyone who says that.
SAC-2 is great for dropper posts, means you don’t have to torque the seat post collar as much.
Too much torque on the collar can cause binding issues
PPL-1 one of the first Park Tool products I've purchase. Love this stuff.
I can feel the enthusiasm, it is strong. This guide definitely helped me. Going to buy some of these now.
The timing of this video is perfect! I’m doing a fork service and was wondering what lube I should use when I put the fork back on my bike.
In other oils and lubricrants: I service my fork with motorbike suspension oil and ATF* from the car parts store and hydraulic grease from a tractor and digger place.
I'm sure enough it's the same stuff that Rockshox sells. Except only about ⅒ the price.
*I have a 2001 SID which requires a small amount of Red Rum, I use ATF for that. I dont think you need this on more modern forks.
This assembly compound is great. Holds my seatpost in place... but also great on slippy handlebar mounts and light mounts.
The only part of my touring bike that needs grease regularly is the thru axle on the front wheel. I have been using boat trailer bearing grease and have not had any issues.
Yeah, it is water resistant.
Just use wax
Also, DualCo long nozzles (4") for their grease guns (like the Park Tool one) are incredibly useful, but horrendously expensive, & rare. What about sourcing these for the grease gun? I'd buy 2.
Great video, I was just having all of these questions running through my brain as I'm reassembling my bike!
Love Park Tool products. Thanks guys. I grew up riding in the 80s when mail order catalogs were on news print and there was no local shop. I ordered from a little family business down the road called Performance. How times have changed. All that to say, you can get perfectly suitable automotive or industrial alternatives to most bicycle stuff down at the farm supply store or hardware store. But you can also easily order bike specific stuff online today.
For the past several years I've been using White Lightning Crystal grease. It's silicone based and has been good for wheel and steering bearings and anything else, such as the saddle stem to prevent it from sticking in the seat tube. When it comes to cleaning the ball bearings for re-greasing, it won't clean off with citrus cleaners. It's advantage is that it's waterproof, so if you do much riding in wet conditions, it won't wash out.
Any suggestions for thru axle lube
I wish Park made a grease at NLGI 3 for the bottom steering bearings. I've seen too many of those rust way to nothing because the grease washed away. A heavier product would be a good idea, and you don't worry about speed (much) on a steering bearing.
I feel like not all nlgi 2 greases are the same. I heard good stuff from Motorex 2000 but for water ingress, marine grease like the blue waterproof grease grease from maxima should do you good.
For not the bearings but rubber seals you might want to consider Morgan blue aquaproof paste
You'll find if you look that this never used to happen to 90/00s bikes. They didn't have sealed bearings so water could just drain out the bottom.
Modern bikes have retarded stems with 4 or more holes in them to direct water straight onto the steerer tube. Then the water fills up on top of your "sealed" bearings
@@janeblogs324 not to critisize you as I do know old shimano square taper bbs were amazing at sealing water but I had never had issues with my steerer/headset having water.
Sidenote, I think people should repack their sealed bearings, people just don't do it because nowhere says it's necessarry or good, but manufacturers don't use high quality grease either to save up cost.
Trust the mustache. Calvin and Park Tool.. love em!
brilliant guy's, it's something that gets overlooked the different types
Thank you for keeping all the bikes rolling!
Great video, informative and to the point!
Boat trailer marine wheel bearing grease for wheel, BB and headset bearings? Made for severe service, possible water intrusion, has anti corrosion ingredients. What’s not to like?
😌 Me searching for a simple grease and now my purchase is justified to get all these types. 😮💨
Between my bike and car lubes, greases, threadlock & anti-seize I probably have most of these in one form or another, under other brand names.
One of the few that I have is the "honey" stuff that's very light grease that basically turns into lube upon use. But isn't it basically what silicone car brake grease is?
Another excellent video! Thank you.
What great to use on SRAM road shifter internal shifting mechanism? SRAM Jonnisnot made the shifting much worse.
Great tips as usual guys! Thanks!
If only you guys would put out tech nerdy specs on those about what's inside, what temperature they handle and how it's comparing to other types of grease, the world of bike related internet would be much easier
Good idea. Many of those details are in the MSDS on the products page for each of these products but is not easily found.
Have had a tube of PPL-1 for about 4 or 5 years and it seems that it will never run out of grease, is there a double bottom in the tube? Anyways, great stuff!
lol
Other than having a children's show feeling to the script and delivery, these are super useful videos, thanks guys!
Great Video! Thank you!
Interesting that your TLR coloring goes a different way than all other brands. (Red,Blue,Green) from light to strong
Must be a location thing. In the states the standard is red (high strength) and blue (medium strength). Green varies from company to company but is typically a penetrating compound
@@adammeyer4928 Agreed. Here in the UK Loctite and its rivals use red (high), blue (medium) and purple (low)
To hold sealed bearings (steel casing) in aluminum hub… ASC?
To hold sealed bearings (steel casing) in carbon frame suspension pivots… SAC ? That has silica, seems like that would cause problems…
SAC should not be used for that. ASC or grease can be used and in some cases a bearing retainer like RC-1 is needed. Most Full suspension companies have a diagram of the frame which calls out the surface prep at each bore. There are some that have a different prep from one bore to the next so it is important to look at manufacturer recommendations.
I keep about half of that stuff in a plastic food container bowl on a shelf. The JH-2 would be much cooler.
I'd like to petition park tool to create and upgraded version of their standard polylube. Lithium complex greases are much less resistant to water and salt than aluminum or calcium soap based greases. Cheaper greases are also intended for higher temps like in truck bearings, whereas a bicycle needs to operate below -50 degrees F (as I sometimes do). Please see "jet-lube arctic" for the optimal grease formula to use
Our polylube is a polyurea grease. It has an optimal temp range for most bicycle applications and lasts 3-5 times as long as a lithium complex grease would. It is more resistant to wetting and is used in many sealed for life applications. If you want a wider temp range our HPG-1 has a wider temp range and is still a polyurea based grease. It is a different formula that is not as resistent to wetting. but in most applications that a bike sees, a polyurea grease is a top notch option. If low temp is your goal there are specifically formulated greases in many base types for that application.
The old man is a legend, clever AF
Thank you !
What grease should I use when mounting a pressfit on a new carbon frame?
I have a problem with my 48 spline bmx cranks. A wobble was developed between my crank arm and the spline. Would the RC-1 help me?
Hello Bonjour , large choice 😊👍 Thank you 😁
Is any of these can be use like universal, or I have to buy all.
Would ASC-1 be useful in applying to the threads on my SRAM dub crankset? That's bolt is a royal PITA to loosen!
Yes, it would be helpful. Also, use a pin spanner like the SAP-2 and remove the cap. Lubricate under the cap as well.
love that grease on the cassette XD
Informative thanks !
What do you recomended for cleat bolts? The grease, anti seize or blue threadlocker?
Any of those are good. Not dry is the important things. If you are able to fully tighten, anti-seize is good, but the service removable thread locker such as TLR-1 if you must use less torque.
Excellent video. Now it would be very useful if you would show us dumbheads where and when to apply grease in a new video and what type of grease you use where, more specific. Show us please how you grease all greasable bike parts. 😅
Is there any reason to not use the ASC-1 for stuff like a quill-stem or aluminum seatposts?
You certainly could. It will stay in place longer than grease.
misspelled performance sign at 7:47
What about for the pivot points/moving parts of derailleurs?
Lube is OK.
Grease for bearing link? Or link itself?
So which grease did you put in the small GG-1 with the blue cylinder?
I learned the hard way not to apply too much SAC-2, and then push a seat post down for transport 🤣
I use park tool sac for my aluminium seatpost then its start sound creaking
Would ASC-1 keep press fit BB's from creaking? Is it good to use for press fit BB's?
ASC-1 would keep it quite for longer than most grease but would not eliminate it. A creak in a pressfit is typically due to some tolerance out out of roundness between the bottom bracket and shell. RC-1 is typically the best solution for a creaky bottom bracket
@@parktool Nothing out of round on a new Rocky Mountain Instinct frame i hope. Creak only happens coming down from a wheelie and slam on the front brake to do a pivot. Stuff like that. I'll assume the proper grease wasn't used when i got my last maintenance check. Thanks for the reply Park Tool! Love your vids!
I have a slightly stripped out brake post mount on my air fork, could I use RC-1 to help fill in those gaps in the threads to get better bite?
You have rounded out the tool fitting in the bolt hed? If that is so, then RC-1 will not help. If these cases, use a new wrench and push down with force as you turn to loosen it. If one bolt come out, you can turn the entire caliper body counter-clockwise to also help free the bolt.
@@parktool I took it to mean that the female threads of the post mount are stripped. In which case the solution is installing a Helicoil (with threadlocker).
What of your products do you recomend to use to lubricate DT Swiss Ratchet system?
HPG-1, a lighter less viscous grease.
BEST STUFF 4 SLIPPIMG POST IS CREST TOOTH PAISTE
What lube for repacking a free hub? And how much? And do pawls and bearings need the same or different lube?
If it is a ball bearing based freehub, such as Shimano, use only oil such as CL-1. The pawls and springs get sticky with grease.
What's preferable for pressed headset cups in the head tube? PPL-1 or ASC-1? Thanks for the videos Park Tool:)
PPL.
Can I use car wheel bearing grease on my bottom bracket threads and bike parts or what can I do? Since I don't want to spend a lot of money
Wheel bearing grease works great for bottom bracket threads and in most areas that the PPL will work.
any grease is better than no grease
Which would you use for regreasing hubs? High Performance Grease or chain lube?
Chain lube, good one. You want clay based not lithium wheel bearing grease
The HPG -1 is suitable for ceramic bearings like repacking pulley wheels?
The HPG-1 would be a very good grease for that.
@@parktool perfect! Ordered some
Just curious, how much for everything on that shelf?
I’ve seen more people using Teflon tape on bottom brackets. What are the benefits of Teflon tape vs grease?
The thought behind using Teflon tape is to seal out moisture, take up space/tolerance between Interior and exterior threads as well as to create a long lasting barrier. None of which are bad things. Anti seize will will do most of them. Grease will as well but may not last as long(we are talking many many years of use here). They all provide some lubricity to help get the threads up to tension to create the friction needed to hold. Grease has been the go to for many years with great success. Anti seize has also been used for many years with great success. Teflon tape is a decent option as well that can make up for some tolerance issues as well.
Teflon tape should be used alongside grease or anti-seize. This is what Brad Kelly from Drift Bikes in Australia has been doing.
Would the RC-1 be good for mountain bike suspension pivot points since it eliminates "creaking" ? Or would something a bit heavier be better ?
The RC-1 is plenty heavy for that. Make sure it is the source of the creak first.
Be careful with the SAC lube, it left mark to the carbon seat post 🙃
That's inevitable, the particles are what provide the friction needed by biting into the carbon.
The tube is way too difficult to squeeze the grease out of.
Which*
Hey, can I use poly lube for keyboard stabs?? Thanks
Id suggest something with a thinner viscosity but a computer expert may be your best bet on this one and not the bike experts. Wish I knew more about keyboards!
@@parktool okay Thank you :). Everybody uses permatex dielectric grease for it. Do you know if has it similar consistency? Thank you.
Can I use pp 1 to assemble my bike. Just this one grease
Yes you can.
what's best for shoe cleat bolts?
The PPL-1 should suffice. If you want, the ASC-1 is fine too, just be careful not to smear yourself, this anti-seize compound has very good adhesion.
what about square tapered spindles? grease or no grease? which grease?
No grease.
@@parktool Won't the crankarms seize?
In our experience, they do not. It's thought that the taper is so tight that no air or moisture can get in so there is no way for a galvanic reaction to take place. Not greasing is a practice that comes from the component manufacturers and from their experience overtime and predictability in future repairs. If the world were perfectly predictable, grease would be suggested.
Tubes of grease are just future landfill. Tubs are more recyclable (cardboard, tin, PET lid). Park Tool should be investigating low impact packaging, like Shimano is doing.
Shimano: "Hollow tech cranks are the future!" Yeah that turned out REAL well...
Lol you can't recycle cardboard with grease.
I don't get why in some threaded bottom brackets they use basically blue loctite and in others anti-seize grease, can someone explain? Looks contradictory for me 🤷🏻♂️
The primary thing a bottom bracket needs is simply enough pre-load on the parts from tightening them. Thread locker is a liquid so does have some lubrication properties as it is tightened. It dries and hardens, and expands somewhat. That will be additional security but typically not needed. Anti-seize stays put well in water, and if parts are tight, will stay tight. Thread locker will be a bit more work to take apart.
@@parktool that's the thing, why on ones it's used grease and in others thread locker? Anyway I have always used some grease
The world of bottom bracket thread prep is not binary. There can be multiple correct options for you, your use and preferences.
Is PPL1 carbon friendly?
Yes it is.
i use lucas grease from walmart
nice
Do you have a thin freehub grease or oil?
What did he say instead of silica? I assume it was an edit to cover an error. The only thing I can imagine is he said it had shit in it.
Maybe Silca, which is a different bike tools / accessories company?
Do any of the greases make my bike more aero? If not, I'm not buying it.
all :)
No way this video will not be biased, no way.
wow i thought we don't greese seat posts
Why would we carry all these different compounds?... So we can sell them all😅
Whatever PierreLuigi is using in his hair.
never never never !!!! use RED threadlock on any MTB
they don't explain the types of grease, just promote their products
Warning: there is an E-bike in this video!
I like to keep my grease In my pocket and eat it.
Can you give me 1 hpgq
2:47 thread locking the BB? Gtfoh