Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order): Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize: amzn.to/34muTaQ Loctite Copper-based Anti-Seize: amzn.to/2Ep8bDU Nickel-Graf: amzn.to/32hL5aH Candle: amzn.to/3hkUQez LubriMatic High Temperature Grease: amzn.to/3j7v3ad
I honestly didn't see the engine coming apart for that reason. I figured it would be too viscous and cause to much strain. Now you have me curious about these products for polishing or lapping abrasives.
I know right! No matter how careful I am some always ends up somewhere I don't want it. Dreadful stuff. It does work though, both this video and my own experience has taught me that.
You need to give a masterclass to all other RUclips content creators on how to get to the point. Seriously, you cover in fifteen minutes what would take others hours of stretched out yapping to do. Thanks for the work you put in, I genuinely appreciate it!
I'll second that, much thanks, and loud clear audio, and to the point, absolutely love that, loud clear audio is actually rare, us truck drivers love that, cause we often listen to vids obviously not watching and audio quality is important
Agreed, these videos are excellent. I don't mind a little wandering if it's something I am watching purely for entertainment but for informative stuff this is about as good as it gets.
3 months of prep work, the effort you go through to show us a true review of a product. That's insane dedication! Much appreciated for all of your videos
You sir in my opinion have one of the best channels on RUclips. No loud obnoxious intro music. No watch my dog run around the yard. No incoherent rambling for 10 minutes. No make sure you subscribe and hit the thumbs up button. You are straight to the point with no BS. Keep up the good work.
The extensive testing and the amount of money and time you spend on doing these videos, just to show people how good products are, is just unbelievable and amazing! I strongly belive i say this on behalf of all you other followers as well... THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Ya' know.... i almost didn't click on this. I thought to myself: "Is anti-seize really THAT interesting?", and then i saw the list of things you were going to do with it.. I'm sorry i ever doubted your ability to make something as mundane as Anti-Seize, so goddamn interesting. I'll never make that mistake again.
Thanks for confirming my faith in Permatex antiseize, I've used it my whole career as an HVAC service technician! A little goes a long way, one bottle lasts for years. New subscriber here from Wisconsin, corrosion protection is very important here in the Upper Midwest! You're making Consumer Reports look like amateurs!
On some of the ball mills used in the gold mines, we used aluminum based anti seize on the big bolts that old the steel liners in place. man, give them 3 months, and that stuff acts like glue. Impossible to undo without a huge impact gun. The best is copper based but its expensive
@@robertlindsay9826 He mentioned in the video that anti-seize can cause galvanic corrosion when used on certain metals, so it's important to pick either the aluminum or copper stuff based on what it's being applied to
I watch this channel, seemingly, religiously. I can’t wait to see what’s next. The layout is great. I love the way he commentates a little and I wanted to add some feedback, which you probably have had before, the charts are perfect. It’s all easy to follow along, even if I have YT playing in the background while I’m doing something. That why I like the commentary.
Me too, it's my favorite channel to splurge-watch, like Wranglerstar or Black Conservative Patriot. Awesome tests, often with comprehensive data. A wide variety of subject matter. No sponsorship bias. Never once have I felt talked down to, or like I was stupid. Nor have I been told or shown anything that I wasn't thoroughly explained. My favorite series on YT.
I worked as a pipefitter in a chemical plant for nearly 40 years. Anti seize was a must on every job. We used Never Seize most of the time. Made by Bostic. Great stuff. Your tests are amazing and informative. I love watching them. Please keep it up.
Seeing long term experiments like this always makes me wonder: how many experiments do you have going on right now? Any hints as to what we can look forward to 3 months from now?
@@ProjectFarm One of them is the windshield wiper blade test and I'm looking forward to finding out which blades last the longerst. I live just outside of Houston and it seems like blades don't last for nothing.
I’ve always been a big consumer reports guy , because of their scientific and unbiased testing! Your test are right on par and often superior to them ! Your saving all your subscribers a ton of money and making life much easier by showing us the best products to use ! Please keep up the great work, and we all greatly appreciate the painstaking hours you put in ! Thanks again for all these great test !!
consumer reports has gone to crap they are all woke with their tests it is all what is best for environment or saves water or is safest not what works best and is cheapest.
@@ranger178 I'd put them above the autogenerated sites that parse online reviews to create a generic generated review. Consumer Reports probably overall does a decent job and have a genuine business model. I think we should pay for information, but even that can be corrupted by people or companies( ie. Suzuki Motor Corp. v. Consumers Union of the U.S., Inc.). It's kind of like America's Test Kitchen, though I've found sometimes my opinions don't quite align with theirs so I just have to guess where the value lies and if needed return it.
I just want to say that all your testing methods and test rigs are always so well thought out and detailed and I really appreciate it. You are the best! This test took 3 months, thats dedication!
I worked 41 years in a coal fired steam electric plant. The units were rated for 450 Megawatts. Needless to say we had some massive equipment and valves under a lot of torque and stress. We used a lot of copper based Anti-Seize on a lot of different equipment. I learned my lesson well and I use it a lot on my farm and cattle equipment now in my retirement. I look forward to your products test every week and use your suggestions whenever I get a chance. You do an outstanding job. One of your fans. Thank you.
I work in pump repair for power plants and most plants are converting to using copper-free anti-seize and graphite bearings. Any bronze or copper in the feed water apparently leaches out and can severly damage boilers.
After being an Auto Tech for 44 years, and 34 of those working on a fleet, the Copper anti seize has worked the best in my experience. Great job doing all of your testing!
Always found res-q steel to be pretty good personally. Used it on ships for years without issue, would have been interested to see it against these other ones.
Love these tests! I have used the silver & copper antiseize for years, works great, don't need much. Like my dad used to say, one tube could paint a barn...lol
@@ProjectFarm I have to agree with the gasmaskguy95... Great set-up on your videos!!! But please, just a little less carnage using the poor lawnmower engines as sacrificial lambs...😕
I was thinking about making the switch to copper. But thanks to you I’m staying with the Permatex aluminum. Important reason you mentioned is galvanic corrosion. These new vehicles have so much aluminum on them. And the bolts are zinc coated!
It seems that O2 sensors frequently have copper anti-sieze on them from the factory. Even though I've had no trouble using the aluminum stuff, the copper might be better for that application.
Man, I've been here since your channel was way smaller. I think it the first video I saw was the first seafoam video. I cant commend you enough for not selling out. With over 1 million subscribers you could have easily gotten sponsors and your test could have been favorable to those that pay you, but you didn"t and I'm glad you exist to make videos so we can be informed on the products we buy.
yes I agree that's a great idea. I have a bolt torque tables i found online and if I use loctite I torque the bolt to the "lubricated" chart which seems to be around 80% of the "dry" chart
I'd also like to see grease, motor oil, and WD-40 added to that test. A lot of times motor oil on the threads is an unavoidable fact of life, and I'm known to use a bit of WD when reinstalling fasteners with light corrosion.
This is definitely a really good idea. You're not supposed to use anti-size on tire lug nuts/studs, for example, because it changes the proper torque values. Knowing how much the torque value should be modified may allow you to use anti-sieze on the lug nuts/studs should it be required (severe corrosive environment, for example).
I know of two slow-speed diesel engines manufactured in the far east in the mid-70s that experienced some unusual encounters with anti-seize. The engines were both 10-cylinder, 900mm bore turning about 90rpm slow speed diesel engines. The crankshafts were assembled of individual pieces, using shrink or press fits. Someone in the assembly process, without the knowledge of the manufacturer, supervisors, quality control, owner's representatives, or regulatory agencies decided to speed the assembly process by coating the crankshaft parts with anti-seize in way of shrink or press fits. Both engines passed shop tests, dock trials, and sea trials. The ships were put into service with no apparent issues. A least one of the ships experienced engine problems. Examination of the engine found that some of the crankshaft components had shifted and the crankshaft was misaligned. The anti-seize worked as intended, it prevented the components from seizing. The problem was the crankshaft components were not intended to move relative to each other. The moral of the story; is don't put anti-seize in the crankcase and don't lubricate shrink or press fit with anti-seize materials. Bob
This is why it's so important for every person involved on a large project to understand the whole project and how it functions. That technician/team was clearly told to fit the parts together, but must have had no concept of why they were going together or what exactly was going to happen to the parts once they were in use. They just slapped the parts together because that's the job they were given. That or they just hated their jobs.
@@Joseph-C In this case, as I understood it, the individual loved his job and the company. He was trying to help speed the assembly. He didn't understand the consequences.
@Okurka I have no idea. I was never great at spelling. I can also claim it is a result of over-reliance on the spellchecker. I will go back and correct my mistakes.
You are my go to guy whenever I want to know which tool, oil,fluids and just about anything else before I make a purchase. There’s nobody else out there like you. You are thorough and honest about everything you test. So many people count on your videos. You are one in a million. Thanks for doing what you do better than anyone else.👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
@@DragonZer0 I think that the anti-seize was too viscous and would not carry away enough heat and once the heat built up in the big end it wore down, softened, and failed. IMHO of course.
It might have started before this test, but “anti-seize” lubricants act like marbles in Greece, so it couldn’t get into the journal of the crank/ connecting rod as easily a liquid oil, thus allowing the rod to heat up and expand beyond its capacity and breaking. There was no way that the cylinder would have seized, because the clearance between the piston, rings and cylinder was was more then ample in allowing the lubricant to slip in! Now what did the cam and lifters look like, when doing a test like this on an engine, before and after pics of more then the piston, crank and cylinder head should be taken, a long with any and all measurements possible. Not just use the engine as a Ginny pig! This way your before pics, and measurements will mean one thing, and the after will actually tell the story! I guess your going to send this one up to Musty1 to see if it can be saved , for yet again future failures!
In every mechanic's shop or garage, I've been in since I was a child always had a jug of that Permatex anti-seize lying around and it's all I ever used as a result. Super testing my good man.
"After 3 months of exposure" ... This guy is amazing! His forethought for these videos is amazing! I have been a faithful watcher for years! I look forward to watching his videos every week.
As many lawnmower's you have gone through over the years, I wouldn't be surprised the used lawnmower prices have been inflated in your neck of the woods. Great video as usual, Thank You!
As a commercial fisherman my equipment was always exposed to harsh conditions. I've always used something be it grease or some type of never seize. I wondered if there was much difference. Now I know. Thanks again for what you do.
While you hinted at this in the video: the reason antiseize works so well (in addition to being a lubricant) is because it is hydrophobic and prevents most electrolyte solutions from penetrating the threads and blocking them with corrosion products. Without an observed difference in electric potentials, corrosion simply cannot occur - it's a similar effect to having coated metal with paint, it cannot see the electrolyte to exchange electrons. Anecdotally, in my engineering career, I require the use of antiseize in most fastener applications (just make sure to reduce the torque by about 20% to avoid overloading the fastener...). I believe in the fairly liberal application of it... In fact, a nuclear reactor in the industry I work in experienced an unplanned shutdown (costing the plant easily 2mil+) because several small fasteners had crevice corrosion which allowed a control valve to blow apart. What did all of the failed fasteners have in common? no antiseize. In a sampling of other fasteners at the facility in the same application, those which were installed using antiseize from approximately the same era had no observable corrosion. Antiseize is good stuff!
I usually use antiseize on my lugs but I tighten to the minimum not the maximum,I think if you work in a gas station or on customer's stuff you have to worry about liability since the owner's manuals say not to use antiseize or lubricant, It is amazing at the abuse that lug nuts get from grease monkeys in tire shops armed with air guns and still they may send out a car without tightening the lugs at all or even send out a car with no oil in the crankcase! you can also put antiseize behind the surface where your wheel backside or rotor sits
@@davidpowell3347 I got tires on my truck at a local tire shop, then took it to get inspected and they called me saying I needed several new studs and lug nuts because they had been put on so tight they couldn’t get them off without really messing them up
@@davidpowell3347 Just saw a truck shop send out a bus that just got new tires on it with several of the bolts hand tight, and several over torqued so hard they twisted them off.. These are bolts big enough to kill someone if they were to be struck by them at highway speed. Not to mention the damage and loss of life that could have been caused if a steering wheel popped off at the wrong time. Yet, nobody will get fired for this and every shop all over the country will keep letting their employees over tighten things with oversize impact wrenches and the like
Lmao, that was funny. "It did it's job, the engine didn't seize". I use that aluminum anti-sieze religiously, it definitely works well for me here in the rust belt. Great test.
@burningfeet 57 What are you talking about? The rust belt is a term used for the area where manufacturing has decreased greatly around the turn of the century. The bible belt, what you seem to have confused the rust belt with is just an area where Christianity is followed by more people than average. They are both demographic terms, not religious terms.
I have been using anti Seize 30+ years and when your talking over a long time, you can still remove old bolt and/or nuts especially on Racing headers.. I had to use a Permatex special anti freeze rated at 2400deg, in our Oven Presses, to form Titanium parts, on the SS screws that held the Die's together...
I've use the first two products most of my life. Nice to see I haven't been wasting my money. Worked great on my 6' lawn mower the bolts on the blades always came out easily.
I never would have thought of using anti-sieze as an engine lube. I was enjoying the video up to that point but started smiling and watching intently as the engine test commenced. What a train of thought. Genius !
Lawnmower : Ah, another day without him hurting myself. PF : Allright, lets test this anti seizure as engine oil~ Lawnmower : Ah shit, here we go again.
@@jerryvelasco1474 Remember, if you want an omelet you've got to break some eggs. Meaning a small engine gave its life so we could learn that anti seize is not an oil
Your coverage of all environments and applications is exceptional. You gave just about everyone a real world look at eh options to use and how well they perform. WELL DONE, SIR! BTW that is $75 worth of anti seize in that lawnmower engine. No one compares is level of testing and detail to Project farm. NO ONE.
The best episodes, always have the lawn mower worked into them somehow. It's always fun to see if the lawn mower can make it through the episode or not. Great information, solid test processes and incredibly entertaining. Thanks for doing these videos!
Jeff.... ive become convinced that this man has a deeeeeep hatred for push mower engines ever notice how he always almost giggle when telling his plan of destruction (testing) roflmao i LOVE this channel and his teating
Red1ineRR it really should be factory mandatory.. I live in the rust belt and as far as I’m concerned seized bolts on a 5 years old vehicle should be considered unacceptable
I really like all your videos. As a truck mechanic for a small fleet, i work on everything knowing ill be the next one to work on it again. I can tell you 100 percent antiseize is necessary on shock absorbers bolts.
Wow! Your videos continue to amaze. Pixel for pixel, your videos should have the highest value of any on RUclips! The work you put into these is off the charts.
I know this sounds crazy, but when I was in the military I worked on TF 34 jet engines. Our technical manuals would have us apply Phillips milk of magnesia as an anti-seize compound on the nuts and bolts that held the hot section together. I speculate that those areas would get so hot that they were beyond the flashpoint of most anti-seize compounds. But it is a good cheap and non-hazardous alternative to standard anti-seize. Also easily applied, we would put all our nuts and bolts in a Ziploc bag, pour in a little milk of magnesia and shake the bag. I love your show!
Damon Traeger When I find tips that crazy-genius, I have to try it. Now if you’re trolling me, my test subject won’t be an expensive victim. Speaking of jet engines, you guys get a grin out of explaining the intricacies of axial compression to curious 12 year old wrenches. (Yeah, that was me 50 years ago). “Well, ya see son, yer family car sucks, squeezes, bangs, and blows....while this here screaming jet sucks, squeezes, and sneezes.” 😎
Hmm, makes sense, leaves a granular but crumbly material in the threads, without interacting chemically, and without lubricating the fastener much if any. Magnesia is an incredibly refractory oxide, it will literally outlast anything you can make a bolt out of -- besides tungsten and a couple neighboring metals (none of which you'd want to make a bolt out of, for various reasons).
Damon Traeger I’ve also used this on extreme high temps(2500f). We decanted the liquid off and used the remainder on or studs and nuts. It really does work well in these circumstances
Hey I have a very interesting video idea! There are “home defense” bug sprays that claim to prevent bugs from entering the area you spray for up to 12 months! There are many different brands of this product. I think it could make a very interesting and informative video! Thanks project farm
4 года назад
well i dont think hes an entomologist but its possible he worked pesticides as a profession.
My dad has been using Copper anti-seize for decades, to no fail, we live in North TX not too worried about the salt and corrosion, but the heat does play a massive massive factor here.... Great vid
Could you test garage floor epoxy kits to see which ones resist scratching, oil staining, heat/cold, and wear resistance? Hope this is a good video idea thanks
The problem with the Epoxies, is people don’t prep the floor correctly. Wash and Brush scrub with a strong Powder HE detergent, Tide Recommended. Throughly rinse and rinse again. Squeegee all standing water. Before the floor has a chance to dry, mix 10 parts water to One Part Muriatic Acid, apply with a stiff brush, let set for a half hour, and flush with plenty of water, squeegee standing water. Dry for a week, fan assist if needed, with nothing on the floor, and restrict foot traffic. Rubber boots, protective clothing, safety glasses, Face Shield are a must. A respirator maybe needed, if a enough cross ventilation can’t be provided. I’m not a fan of rubber gloves** when working with acids, prefer a bucket near with cool clear water, for frequent hand, skin washing. If you get acid in the glove**, you may not realize it, till major damage has been done
As a marine engineer for the last 30 years I can say that all of these anti-seize products are very limited when used in the marine environment. I stopped using these many years ago and instead use silicone grease (such as caterpillar o-ring lubricant, Dow Corning Formula 111, or NAPA Sil-Glyde). I find that Anti-Seize tends to loose it's oil or grease after awhile leaving only the dry flake. Then sea water seeps in and starts to cause corrosion. Silicone grease stays for years and years. Sea water has no effect on it. Extreme high heat can be a problem though. Exhaust manifold bolts is the only place I use copper based anti-Seize.
Years ago i was worki g on miltary vechicals that had been stored 'n the kuwait desert sense desert storm page 1 worki g on M1 abrams and Bradlys mostly, i found the nuuts and bolts cam e off pretty da g easy after 11/12 years ever sense then ive used the cooper based anti seize on all y tower and antennas a d anythi g automotive and marine.
@not meatall I've not been a marine engineer but have had good success with silicone grease on the farm. Ive been using Tribology Tech-Lube silicone paste. It works well. I've found I need to wear gloves because if I get it on my hands they stay slippery for a while as washing doesn't really have much affect taking it off. Maybe Project Farm will do a review of different silicone grease products.
I'm a retired marine engineer and I can tell you that anti-seize does work. Dow Corning does work on some things but not 950 degree superheat steam line flange studs but Loctite copper plated anti-seize does. Yard-birds don't like using it because it takes too much time to anti-seize the bolts and studs, and it is almost impossible to get them to apply it to fiber sheet gaskets. I always would have an understanding with the yard that they would apply it to boiler handhole plate threads after I had to burn off 80 handhole plate nuts one time when they used plain nuts instead of 2-H nuts, if they had used anti-seize the nuts would have not have galled.
"We're going to test them on threads" Ok, makes sense. "And test bare metal" Works for me, a little extra data. "And if it'll work as engine oil" There's the Project Farm I love.
The copper high temp works better wether it's locktite or permatex. My first experience with locktite was on the mold board adjustment bolt (2.5 inch) on a 12 cat grader that had spent 6 months working rip rap on an ocean beach . Absolutely no problem getting it loose .
oh, please. The main purpose of anti-seize is not as a lubricant but to prevent galling and seizing in high temperature applications up to 1800 deg. F. No petroleum based lubricant will survive that (not even 600 deg. F). Otherwise, just use grease if you want a lubricant... it's far less expensive. Would you put grease in an engine instead of oil? No... of course not. There is a reason anti-seize compounds are metallic based unlike any standard lubricant or grease. This "testing" is just nonsense. It's like asking if thread-locker works. Yes... it does and no "testing" required.
I'm not a mechanic, but I figured that since the Loctite Copper is so expensive, I'd figure the Permatix Aluminum is a good choice for those who are conscious of price. If you're really hurting, Nickle-Graf could work if the bolt won't be on for too long.
@@Kalmaro4152 I've tried both Aluminum, Copper and the older Nickel-based Loctite products on Exhaust Manifold bolts (a very tough place), and the newer Copper one is noticeably better than the older, almost useless Nickel based one.
We used anti-seize in high heat applications in a factory. The anti-seize was a graphite infused grease that coated metal parts and prevented corrosion and seizure due to heat. It worked great. We used to take it home and use it on high heat applications on our cars and trucks (exhaust manifold bolts, etc). I've never had a bolt or nut treated with anti-seize ever snap or seize. I've also used the same graphite product in anti-tamper applications to discourage vandals as once the grease gets on skin and fabric, it's very hard to remove. Get it on your coat, and you're throwing the coat away.
Dang son.. that was a fun one.. when I was a lad of about 11 I started to rebuild lawn mower engines and now at 68.. I still do it now and then.. You always put out good information in such an enjoyable format.. thanks.. carry on!
After spending years working in refineries every bolt that I put back in my cars or bikes that does not use Loctite has anti-seize on it. It makes life easier my mechanic. (Me)
I spent half a day on the internet trying to get an idea about the best type of anti-seize / corrosion inhibitor to use for restoring my classic cars. After hours of research and still being confused, I watched your video and it gave me the answers I needed straight away. Thanks also for doing the wax and grease; they're things I probably would have tried but now I know their limitations. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to do such conclusive tests in your videos; they're very educational and invaluable.
I work on industrial chillers and we coat water box bolts and studs in antiseize all the time. Then cover the equipment with insulation for five years and then open it again. No antiseize =broken bolts and studs.
@@greyspot00 Raburn's lawn mower ran for 6 minutes and 11 seconds without oil which was 27 seconds longer than Kyle's but not as good as the 8 minute showing by Bob's. In our next test we'll run over all three mowers with a train.
I have to wonder how many small engines you've killed and if you "notch" you tool belt for each dead motor..... Great work, Todd. Thanks for your methods, hard work and integrity.
It's not a good lubricant, but it does lubricate the threads when torquing them down. Taper lock and QD bushings have a warning on them about putting never sieze on them, as it increases the clamping force so much you can split them in half.
Really enjoy your videos, have personally worked as a mechanic all my life and really appreciate all the hard work you put in to these videos. Very informative. And sometimes I’m surprised buy the out come of products you review . Appreciate your honesty and no B.S approach. Keep up the great work .
Project Farm videos are one of my favorites to watch on You Tube. Product tests with no bias and well designed to show if the product actually works. I look forward to your next video. Thanks for sharing.
Three whole months. It definitely is amazing how he didn't even forget about it, and still made such a nice video for all of us. Here's to hoping your channel reaches 10 million subscribers very quickly!
You are amazing. You have taken the often asked "Great product. I wonder what would happen if...". Great details and unbiased testing. Final results are always clearly displayed and easy to understand.
I have thoroughly love all of your videos. By looking at the 1.5 MILLION subscribers there a LOT of viewers that share my sentiment. Congratulations on the great growth of your channel.
My father broke a water tap in garden few days ago, half of old thread stuck in pipe. Extension to be correct, usually he will just go and buy new extension but with lockdown that's not a option. And only reason he ask me for help, usually he's to proud for that. Luckily chinesium taps melt at low temperatures, small blowtorch was enough to melt it away and install new tap.
@Dirty Harry problem is that with so many ppl buying only these cheapshit taps it's impossible to buy good one any more in my town. I'll need to travel don't know, 100km to buy good one. One can always order something online but you know how it's going usually, it leak and you need to buy new one fast and then you forget about it for a year and then again it leak and you can't wait for post order and circle is complete, infinity repeat (and Chinese GDP grow :D).
The dedication from this man, I never buy a tool or a product without checking if he tested it first, thank you so much. And I have no idea how he has over 300 million views and still likes and replies to every video, hands down one of the top 3 youtubers I watch
I really enjoyed the style of video No Time wasted whatsoever. Straight-to-the-point. It would be great to do a 10-year test. I own a Automotive repair shop in Illinois, they don't hold back on assault at all in the winter. As you pointed out in the beginning of your video it takes twice as long especially on exhaust bolts. The blue wrench is your best friend in such cases. If it would be great to have a fleet of vehicles operating in this area do the same amount of repairs, for example exhaust manifold and catalytic converters and anti-seize the studs. Anyhow, I will continue to use my copper anti seize on spark plugs and exhaust bolts.
@@nikclev Yeah, I worked with a guy that didn't know, then we needed to try to undo a 3/4 x 14 bolt we had just installed. Out came the grinder. He apologized for not believing me.😉
On stainless copper works pretty good at normal temperatures but if high temps or dissimilar metals are involved go with straight nickle, and not nickle/graph. Based on over 30 years in mining, sawmills, and wastewater treatment. You wouldn't believe what 120+ degrees, condensing humidity, and 100ppm of H2S will do to metals. Half inch mild steel can disappear in less than a year.
You're the real champ here Farm Projects. You are doing a great service to all of us with these outstanding, unbiased, truthful videos. Keep up the great work man 👍 Much love from Alberta.
Excellent video; your standard is so high. The amount of work that goes into your productions is amazing. All I can say is thank you. My hat off to you sir.
This video is much appreciated by me. Thank you! I was an engineer for GE in the 70's and 80's. I supervised overhauls of GE gas turbine generator and compressor drive units all over the world. Bolts ranged from 1/2 inch to 2 inch and sometimes larger. Antiseize on absolutely clean threads was extremely necessary. The bolts in the hot sections were usually tough to remove a few years later. But the unit that somebody put together dry was a nightmare to take apart. We broke 1-1/4-8tpi bolts off on vertical joints and each had to be drilled out or ground out with peanut grinders before the section could be lifted out by crane. That took 5 days working around the clock and even more grinding and drilling once the turbine shell was removed. The magnetic base drill earned its keep on that job. Some of the smaller steam turbines we worked on typically had 4 foot long studs with 4 inch diameter threads. These studs had a 3/4 inch hole drilled through the center end to end. We put a special oxy-acetelene-compressed air heater in the hole to heat the stud from the inside to blow hot air through it.The turbine cases had to be cold...room temperature first. After proper heating of the stud, the top and bottom nuts came off easily if they had been assembled with antiseize years before. The heat makes the stud grow lengthwise and they come off pretty easily if they had been assembled with anti seize like C5-A or Nickel Never Seez. To tighten the studs, you put them all in with nuts on top and bottom. Then you smacked each one with a slugging wrench, huge forged steel heavy duty box end wrenches tied to a rope with some big guy smacking the end of the wrench. We used a 6 pound sledge hammer until it stopped. Then we marked the nuts and casing with a soapstone. A chart tells you how many more degrees to turn to tighten the nut after heating the stud for 15 minutes or so. Very often we could turn the nut by gloved hands to match the other mark on the casing, no wrench necessary. When it cooled down, the stud would require many thousands of foot pounds to remove the nut. Do this to all of the casing studs and that turbine shell remains massively tight whether hot or cold. The one time some mechanic at a large lumber mill thought it would be better to glass bead blast the studs on a steam turbine before assembly, every one of them galled up coming apart even coated with anti seize. The customer screwed up the overhaul and we were called in 2 weeks later to take it apart again and fix it right. We fought those nuts off with slugging wrenches all the way and had to replace several of the 150 pound studs because the threads were galled so badly. We always wirewheeled all of the threads on all jobs and made sure they were clean. We used Nerver Seez nickel on high temperature bolts, C5-A copper on 200 degree or less applications. There was also special anti seize with a pedigree and trace-ability papers as to when and where it was made , serial number on each can. We used this extreme high dollar stuff on ''Sub Safe'' and ''Mercury Free'' certified jobs on small turbines, reactor feed pumps, and main propulsion turbines on nuclear powered subs and aircraft carriers. It takes a month to do a 4 day job with all of the barriers, paperwork, witnesses, specifications, inspections, red tape, etc. To this day in my late 60's I assemble every bolted piece in my work shop, cars, truck, etc, with anti seize. The cost is peanuts for the headaches it saves.
@@saulj6045 I plumb wore out my typing finger writing this. I tried speech to text writing once but it invents cuss words I never heard before..My mom, rest her soul, never forgave me. I'm glad you liked it.
Wow ! Who are you ? We have a G.E. plant in our cinti. area. Your comments were amazing !! - I use the stuff on brake jobs constantly . aluminum wheels to steel hubs ect. ... I really enjoyed the commentary on your past work experience's !!!
I have been using anti-seize on exhaust bolts and brake bolts since I was a kid and always wondered if Dad was right. It's nice to see an actual test. And, I feel justified for using it all these years...............plus, I've never broken a bolt or wheel stud when using it.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize: amzn.to/34muTaQ
Loctite Copper-based Anti-Seize: amzn.to/2Ep8bDU
Nickel-Graf: amzn.to/32hL5aH
Candle: amzn.to/3hkUQez
LubriMatic High Temperature Grease: amzn.to/3j7v3ad
Does it conform to the sn rating for motor oil? Lol
Should test fluid film as a motor oil!
I know a mechanic that use engine oil. Can you do a test on engine oil as well?
I would argue that the candle would'^ve done a better job if it wasnt cooked away prior ....
I honestly didn't see the engine coming apart for that reason. I figured it would be too viscous and cause to much strain. Now you have me curious about these products for polishing or lapping abrasives.
I’m just impressed that he and his shop weren’t coated in anti seize by the end of this. Anytime I touch it, it magically gets everywhere.
lol That would have been a problem!
Yes. Especially the permatek. That stuff gets EVERYWHERE. Especially when coating wheel hubs with it lol
I know right! No matter how careful I am some always ends up somewhere I don't want it. Dreadful stuff. It does work though, both this video and my own experience has taught me that.
I really go through the gloves cuz I have issues with it.
The same thing happens to me. It always gets all over the place.
You need to give a masterclass to all other RUclips content creators on how to get to the point. Seriously, you cover in fifteen minutes what would take others hours of stretched out yapping to do. Thanks for the work you put in, I genuinely appreciate it!
Wow, thanks!
I'll second that, much thanks, and loud clear audio, and to the point, absolutely love that, loud clear audio is actually rare, us truck drivers love that, cause we often listen to vids obviously not watching and audio quality is important
@@ProjectFarm mr. moser is spot on there. yer the best i've seen on here anyplace.
Agreed, these videos are excellent. I don't mind a little wandering if it's something I am watching purely for entertainment but for informative stuff this is about as good as it gets.
It's a wonderful thing when people don't waste your time.
3 months of prep work, the effort you go through to show us a true review of a product. That's insane dedication! Much appreciated for all of your videos
Thank you!
I do not have any use for that information, but i stay just out of sheer amazement for all that effort put into those tests.
I really was impressed when he compared all different brands of lithium AA batteries and came with test samples of 2 years of use
Yeah I’m frequently blown away from all of his improvised testing methods and his extensive level of detail. True talent dedication here.
You sir in my opinion have one of the best channels on RUclips. No loud obnoxious intro music. No watch my dog run around the yard. No incoherent rambling for 10 minutes. No make sure you subscribe and hit the thumbs up button. You are straight to the point with no BS. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
right to the point
I always come away amazed, humored, with increased common sense quickly
Exactly! All the others should take note.
Did guy just take a shot at cutting edge engineering I love when it cuts to the dog it's awesome
“I’ve been applying the rusting agent for the past ninety days” Now THAT’S dedication!
Thanks for sharing.
Only the best for us viewers lul
His dedication is off the charts. I wish other agencies would test as well as he does.
I’ve always enjoyed watching your testing processes as you are very thorough keep up the good work
I am blown away each and every video.
I love the shot of the dipstick showing the crankcase "full" of anti-seize! Lolz
lol. Nice!
@@ProjectFarm It's definitely a lot more than just a regular test video :P
Second only to the timeless "The banana level is full."
Literally any viewer here: He's a man of focus, commitment and sheer ducking will.
Thanks for watching!
This guy does some of the most thorough and scientific testing. And destroys a lot of lawn mower engines lol!
lol Thanks!
The extensive testing and the amount of money and time you spend on doing these videos, just to show people how good products are, is just unbelievable and amazing! I strongly belive i say this on behalf of all you other followers as well... THANK YOU SO MUCH!
You are welcome!
Just want to add my thanks to this comment. Really useful info
Ya' know.... i almost didn't click on this. I thought to myself: "Is anti-seize really THAT interesting?", and then i saw the list of things you were going to do with it..
I'm sorry i ever doubted your ability to make something as mundane as Anti-Seize, so goddamn interesting. I'll never make that mistake again.
Thanks for watching.
you must be new here
@@kamilzmich5961 Actually, i've been here pretty much since the beginning. Thanks for playing.
There is no other channel that combines the practical with the absurd like Project Farm.
How about testing methods of treating wood for outdoor life: Cedar, pressure treated wood, paint, epoxy, linseed oil, boarate treatments, etc?
That's a great idea. Definitely one we wouldnt see until next year though haha
Awesome idea!
Creosote, chromated copper arsenate, tar
Old engine oil
That would take like 6 months to complete :0
Thanks for confirming my faith in Permatex antiseize, I've used it my whole career as an HVAC service technician! A little goes a long way, one bottle lasts for years. New subscriber here from Wisconsin, corrosion protection is very important here in the Upper Midwest! You're making Consumer Reports look like amateurs!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
On some of the ball mills used in the gold mines, we used aluminum based anti seize on the big bolts that old the steel liners in place. man, give them 3 months, and that stuff acts like glue. Impossible to undo without a huge impact gun. The best is copper based but its expensive
@@robertlindsay9826 He mentioned in the video that anti-seize can cause galvanic corrosion when used on certain metals, so it's important to pick either the aluminum or copper stuff based on what it's being applied to
>You're making Consumer Reports look like amateurs!
that's cause they are lol
Is it good for ball lube?
Not mentioned but relevant: Burgers no longer stick to the grill, and now have a distinctive coppery flavor.
lol. Nice!
unclematt3 Ah no, now you've made me pee myself laughing...
Good for sex too. NOT
Copper is poison if inhaled or consumed i think so make sure you clean that grill good.
That's good against bacteria. A great tip if you like your chicken wings rare.
I watch this channel, seemingly, religiously. I can’t wait to see what’s next. The layout is great. I love the way he commentates a little and I wanted to add some feedback, which you probably have had before, the charts are perfect. It’s all easy to follow along, even if I have YT playing in the background while I’m doing something. That why I like the commentary.
Wow, thank you!
Very nicely explained, keep the way of making videos and we will all be very happily enjoying your videoss👍🏼👍🏼
Me too, it's my favorite channel to splurge-watch, like Wranglerstar or Black Conservative Patriot. Awesome tests, often with comprehensive data. A wide variety of subject matter. No sponsorship bias. Never once have I felt talked down to, or like I was stupid. Nor have I been told or shown anything that I wasn't thoroughly explained. My favorite series on YT.
Make sure to send him a few bucks each month on Patreon guys!
Also, PFs Like vs. Dislike ratio is amazing, it averages 10% likes on his views, thats high. Also the dislikes is often under 0.1%, This is legendary.
I about died when you said 3 months. This guy is honestly one of my favorite content creators. Straight the point. Keep up the good work man!
Thanks, will do.
I worked as a pipefitter in a chemical plant for nearly 40 years. Anti seize was a must on every job. We used Never Seize most of the time. Made by Bostic. Great stuff. Your tests are amazing and informative. I love watching them. Please keep it up.
Thanks, will do!
Another long time user of Never Seez here, over 45 years of using it.
Seeing long term experiments like this always makes me wonder: how many experiments do you have going on right now? Any hints as to what we can look forward to 3 months from now?
Thank you very much! I always have at least 5 underway at one.
@@ProjectFarm Mate I can't even think of five things to do, let alone all at once.
kingoftaurus smokes operator video from r6???
@@ProjectFarm One of them is the windshield wiper blade test and I'm looking forward to finding out which blades last the longerst. I live just outside of Houston and it seems like blades don't last for nothing.
Well, there's the rechargeable batteries and the ongoing test with them.
Lawn Mowers tremble when this man walks into the store.
lol Thanks for watching.
Yes. You know who to never lend your mower to.
One has already written a diary from personal experience!
Lol!!! That’s a fact, I think Project Farm is where all bad behaving mowers are sent to be tortured. Ha! Ha!
Project Lawn Mower Torture Chamber. I feel a rebranding is coming up soon.
The fact that you are patient enough to wait 90 days for 1 experiment is amazing. Great dedication! Good content!
Thanks!
Not being patient enough to wait for 90 days is the result of this smart phone era. And finding that impressive is a statement on its own.
😂
@@kviaak7979 ok.
With all the projects he goes through, I'm surprised he got to it within a year. ;)
I’ve always been a big consumer reports guy , because of their scientific and unbiased testing! Your test are right on par and often superior to them ! Your saving all your subscribers a ton of money and making life much easier by showing us the best products to use ! Please keep up the great work, and we all greatly appreciate the painstaking hours you put in ! Thanks again for all these great test !!
Thanks and you are welcome!
consumer reports has gone to crap they are all woke with their tests it is all what is best for environment or saves water or is safest not what works best and is cheapest.
CU is crooked as hell
@@ranger178 I'd put them above the autogenerated sites that parse online reviews to create a generic generated review. Consumer Reports probably overall does a decent job and have a genuine business model. I think we should pay for information, but even that can be corrupted by people or companies( ie. Suzuki Motor Corp. v. Consumers Union of the U.S., Inc.). It's kind of like America's Test Kitchen, though I've found sometimes my opinions don't quite align with theirs so I just have to guess where the value lies and if needed return it.
I just want to say that all your testing methods and test rigs are always so well thought out and detailed and I really appreciate it. You are the best! This test took 3 months, thats dedication!
Thank you very much!
Dude goes hard in the paint, not to mention he's smarter than the average bear!
I worked 41 years in a coal fired steam electric plant. The units were rated for 450 Megawatts. Needless to say we had some massive equipment and valves under a lot of torque and stress. We used a lot of copper based Anti-Seize on a lot of different equipment. I learned my lesson well and I use it a lot on my farm and cattle equipment now in my retirement. I look forward to your products test every week and use your suggestions whenever I get a chance. You do an outstanding job. One of your fans. Thank you.
Thank you!
YES! 41 years in a coal-fired plant also! Anti-Seize is used in all applications. Nickel and copper, depending on mfr's specs.
I work in pump repair for power plants and most plants are converting to using copper-free anti-seize and graphite bearings. Any bronze or copper in the feed water apparently leaches out and can severly damage boilers.
@@normajohnson6352whst brands?
After being an Auto Tech for 44 years, and 34 of those working on a fleet, the Copper anti seize has worked the best in my experience. Great job doing all of your testing!
Thanks so much!
@@ProjectFarm don't use copper anti seize on stainless in salt water, it actually corrodes the stainless; nickel based in marine applications only
Molykote M-77 is the best I've used. Takes longer to dry out than the copper stuff.
Always found res-q steel to be pretty good personally. Used it on ships for years without issue, would have been interested to see it against these other ones.
@@wlrottge nope, tefgel we use
Love these tests!
I have used the silver & copper antiseize for years, works great, don't need much.
Like my dad used to say, one tube could paint a barn...lol
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
One smudge can paint a face. Anti sieze seems seems to get everywhere!
This channel has the best non-bias product reviews. Period!
Thank you very much! My goal is definitely to deliver unbiased reviews that help everyone. Thanks again!
This guy is crazy-dedicated to his product evaluations and excellent video presentations !!!
I only wish I had more thumbs to click up !!!
Thank you very much!
Here's an extra thumb www.patreon.com/projectfarm 😉
I'm always amazed by how much effort you put into your videos
Thanks so much!
@@ProjectFarm I have to agree with the gasmaskguy95... Great set-up on your videos!!! But please, just a little less carnage using the poor lawnmower engines as sacrificial lambs...😕
I was thinking about making the switch to copper. But thanks to you I’m staying with the Permatex aluminum. Important reason you mentioned is galvanic corrosion. These new vehicles have so much aluminum on them. And the bolts are zinc coated!
Thanks for sharing.
It seems that O2 sensors frequently have copper anti-sieze on them from the factory. Even though I've had no trouble using the aluminum stuff, the copper might be better for that application.
If you have the money might be good to keep both on hand, i dont so ill stick with forcing the bolts lol
Man, I've been here since your channel was way smaller. I think it the first video I saw was the first seafoam video. I cant commend you enough for not selling out. With over 1 million subscribers you could have easily gotten sponsors and your test could have been favorable to those that pay you, but you didn"t and I'm glad you exist to make videos so we can be informed on the products we buy.
I'm new to the channel, butI love the way he tests these products.
He looks like he’s about to burst out laughing all the time, and I love it
Thank you very much! I'm definitely having a lot of fun!
That is a very accurate observation.
He reminds me of the pranks we played as kids trying to get the poker face under control just as our pranks get sprung😂
Project Farm qq
How about testing how much tightening torque and clamping force changes between bare threads, anti-seize and thread locker.
Great video idea! I can definitely test that.
yes I agree that's a great idea. I have a bolt torque tables i found online and if I use loctite I torque the bolt to the "lubricated" chart which seems to be around 80% of the "dry" chart
I'd also like to see grease, motor oil, and WD-40 added to that test. A lot of times motor oil on the threads is an unavoidable fact of life, and I'm known to use a bit of WD when reinstalling fasteners with light corrosion.
This is definitely a really good idea. You're not supposed to use anti-size on tire lug nuts/studs, for example, because it changes the proper torque values. Knowing how much the torque value should be modified may allow you to use anti-sieze on the lug nuts/studs should it be required (severe corrosive environment, for example).
I know of two slow-speed diesel engines manufactured in the far east in the mid-70s that experienced some unusual encounters with anti-seize. The engines were both 10-cylinder, 900mm bore turning about 90rpm slow speed diesel engines.
The crankshafts were assembled of individual pieces, using shrink or press fits.
Someone in the assembly process, without the knowledge of the manufacturer, supervisors, quality control, owner's representatives, or regulatory agencies decided to speed the assembly process by coating the crankshaft parts with anti-seize in way of shrink or press fits.
Both engines passed shop tests, dock trials, and sea trials. The ships were put into service with no apparent issues. A least one of the ships experienced engine problems. Examination of the engine found that some of the crankshaft components had shifted and the crankshaft was misaligned. The anti-seize worked as intended, it prevented the components from seizing. The problem was the crankshaft components were not intended to move relative to each other.
The moral of the story; is don't put anti-seize in the crankcase and don't lubricate shrink or press fit with anti-seize materials.
Bob
Great story. William Nixon, Metallurgist, Physicist
This is why it's so important for every person involved on a large project to understand the whole project and how it functions. That technician/team was clearly told to fit the parts together, but must have had no concept of why they were going together or what exactly was going to happen to the parts once they were in use. They just slapped the parts together because that's the job they were given. That or they just hated their jobs.
@@Joseph-C In this case, as I understood it, the individual loved his job and the company. He was trying to help speed the assembly. He didn't understand the consequences.
How did you manage to misspell "seize" so often?
@Okurka I have no idea. I was never great at spelling. I can also claim it is a result of over-reliance on the spellchecker. I will go back and correct my mistakes.
This guy is proof you don’t need expensive editing software to be good. Uses movie maker yet makes better content than 90% of other youtubers.
How can you tell?
Thanks for watching.
Amen
@@RustySh4ckleford I use movie maker too, it's basic, but does everything a good producer needs.
@@ProjectFarm please do a vid on using transmission fluid as motor oil 🙏
I am blown away in amazement by the amount of effort put in by you in these tests!
Thanks!
Old lawn mowers everywhere fear this man.
lol Thanks for watching.
Not if they want to go out in a blaze of glory!
It's like the little droids on Star Wars... No!!!
I think you're onto something for a good shirt there. @P.F. needs to jump onto that, not just funny, but also true.
You are my go to guy whenever I want to know which tool, oil,fluids and just about anything else before I make a purchase. There’s nobody else out there like you. You are thorough and honest about everything you test. So many people count on your videos. You are one in a million. Thanks for doing what you do better than anyone else.👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks so much!
"I suspect this damage was caused before the anti-seize" LMAO... I'd say. That little engine has been through hell!
Thanks for watching.
@@ProjectFarm
Now stupid question.
Why did the connecting rod give way in such a fashion?
DragonZer0 prior damage? Maybe anti-seize doesn’t cool the components as well as engine oil, so overheating weakens and damages the components
@@DragonZer0 I think that the anti-seize was too viscous and would not carry away enough heat and once the heat built up in the big end it wore down, softened, and failed. IMHO of course.
It might have started before this test, but “anti-seize” lubricants act like marbles in Greece, so it couldn’t get into the journal of the crank/ connecting rod as easily a liquid oil, thus allowing the rod to heat up and expand beyond its capacity and breaking. There was no way that the cylinder would have seized, because the clearance between the piston, rings and cylinder was was more then ample in allowing the lubricant to slip in!
Now what did the cam and lifters look like, when doing a test like this on an engine, before and after pics of more then the piston, crank and cylinder head should be taken, a long with any and all measurements possible. Not just use the engine as a Ginny pig!
This way your before pics, and measurements will mean one thing, and the after will actually tell the story!
I guess your going to send this one up to Musty1 to see if it can be saved , for yet again future failures!
In every mechanic's shop or garage, I've been in since I was a child always had a jug of that Permatex anti-seize lying around and it's all I ever used as a result. Super testing my good man.
"After 3 months of exposure" ... This guy is amazing! His forethought for these videos is amazing! I have been a faithful watcher for years! I look forward to watching his videos every week.
Thanks!
As many lawnmower's you have gone through over the years, I wouldn't be surprised the used lawnmower prices have been inflated in your neck of the woods. Great video as usual, Thank You!
lol Thanks!
This guy must be able to rebuild a lawn mower with his eyes closed by this point
And he can definitely take one apart and put it back together faster than anybody I know!!
Nathan Frey No mower is safe from him! LOL
Every mower abandon near a street with a "Free" sign on it dreams of being picked up by Project Farm.
everyone needs to hide their mowers. theres a killer on the loose!
Corpsie Corpsie
It’s like a great warrior death for derilict lawn mowers ,to to go to the project farm is like Valhalla for a Troy Bilt
As a commercial fisherman my equipment was always exposed to harsh conditions. I've always used something be it grease or some type of never seize. I wondered if there was much difference. Now I know. Thanks again for what you do.
While you hinted at this in the video: the reason antiseize works so well (in addition to being a lubricant) is because it is hydrophobic and prevents most electrolyte solutions from penetrating the threads and blocking them with corrosion products. Without an observed difference in electric potentials, corrosion simply cannot occur - it's a similar effect to having coated metal with paint, it cannot see the electrolyte to exchange electrons.
Anecdotally, in my engineering career, I require the use of antiseize in most fastener applications (just make sure to reduce the torque by about 20% to avoid overloading the fastener...). I believe in the fairly liberal application of it... In fact, a nuclear reactor in the industry I work in experienced an unplanned shutdown (costing the plant easily 2mil+) because several small fasteners had crevice corrosion which allowed a control valve to blow apart. What did all of the failed fasteners have in common? no antiseize. In a sampling of other fasteners at the facility in the same application, those which were installed using antiseize from approximately the same era had no observable corrosion. Antiseize is good stuff!
Thanks for the feedback.
Very interesting. Thanks for posting this info 👍
I usually use antiseize on my lugs but I tighten to the minimum not the maximum,I think if you work in a gas station or on customer's stuff you have to worry about liability since the owner's manuals say not to use antiseize or lubricant, It is amazing at the abuse that lug nuts get from grease monkeys in tire shops armed with air guns
and still they may send out a car without tightening the lugs at all or even send out a car with no oil in the crankcase!
you can also put antiseize behind the surface where your wheel backside or rotor sits
@@davidpowell3347 I got tires on my truck at a local tire shop, then took it to get inspected and they called me saying I needed several new studs and lug nuts because they had been put on so tight they couldn’t get them off without really messing them up
@@davidpowell3347 Just saw a truck shop send out a bus that just got new tires on it with several of the bolts hand tight, and several over torqued so hard they twisted them off.. These are bolts big enough to kill someone if they were to be struck by them at highway speed. Not to mention the damage and loss of life that could have been caused if a steering wheel popped off at the wrong time. Yet, nobody will get fired for this and every shop all over the country will keep letting their employees over tighten things with oversize impact wrenches and the like
Lmao, that was funny. "It did it's job, the engine didn't seize".
I use that aluminum anti-sieze religiously, it definitely works well for me here in the rust belt.
Great test.
Thanks for sharing.
@burningfeet 57 What are you talking about? The rust belt is a term used for the area where manufacturing has decreased greatly around the turn of the century. The bible belt, what you seem to have confused the rust belt with is just an area where Christianity is followed by more people than average. They are both demographic terms, not religious terms.
@@hdog9046 Reread his post...🤣😂🤣
@@CGoffgrid Well, don't I look stupid now.
Hahaha, dang man, some people are just way too bored.
Btw,1st amendment, I'll say whatever I want. 🇺🇸
😁
The amount of work and ingenuity you put into these videos is absolutely amazing.
Thank you very much!
I have been using anti Seize 30+ years and when your talking over a long time, you can still remove old bolt and/or nuts especially on Racing headers.. I had to use a Permatex special anti freeze rated at 2400deg, in our Oven Presses, to form Titanium parts, on the SS screws that held the Die's together...
Thanks for the feedback.
I've use the first two products most of my life. Nice to see I haven't been wasting my money. Worked great on my 6' lawn mower the bolts on the blades always came out easily.
Thanks for the feedback.
I never would have thought of using anti-sieze as an engine lube. I was enjoying the video up to that point but started smiling and watching intently as the engine test commenced. What a train of thought. Genius !
Lawnmower : Ah, another day without him hurting myself.
PF : Allright, lets test this anti seizure as engine oil~
Lawnmower : Ah shit, here we go again.
Poor lawnmower..
I believe this is lawnmower abuse.
Call LPS (lawnmower protective services)
@@jerryvelasco1474
Remember, if you want an omelet you've got to break some eggs.
Meaning a small engine gave its life so we could learn that anti seize is not an oil
@@robertpicton1 You made me laugh until it hurt.
Your coverage of all environments and applications is exceptional. You gave just about everyone a real world look at eh options to use and how well they perform. WELL DONE, SIR!
BTW that is $75 worth of anti seize in that lawnmower engine.
No one compares is level of testing and detail to Project farm. NO ONE.
The effort and time put into this video is greatly appreciated by your viewers.
Thanks!
The best episodes, always have the lawn mower worked into them somehow. It's always fun to see if the lawn mower can make it through the episode or not. Great information, solid test processes and incredibly entertaining. Thanks for doing these videos!
I too enjoy a good lawnmower engine experiment. I do love me some Farmabago footage!
I am thinking the anti-seize raised the compression in the lawnmower motor EXPONENTIALLY, which was a major cause of its demise!
I sense an idea for a new PF t-shirt!
Even my son the video gamer, with almost no belongings, does own a lawn mower.
Jeff.... ive become convinced that this man has a deeeeeep hatred for push mower engines ever notice how he always almost giggle when telling his plan of destruction (testing) roflmao i LOVE this channel and his teating
Now if manufacturers could add anti seize when assembling that would be great.
Thanks for the feedback.
I've been saying that for years
Especially on snow blowers....
They do, on quality products.
Red1ineRR it really should be factory mandatory.. I live in the rust belt and as far as I’m concerned seized bolts on a 5 years old vehicle should be considered unacceptable
I really like all your videos. As a truck mechanic for a small fleet, i work on everything knowing ill be the next one to work on it again. I can tell you 100 percent antiseize is necessary on shock absorbers bolts.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Wow! Your videos continue to amaze. Pixel for pixel, your videos should have the highest value of any on RUclips! The work you put into these is off the charts.
I know this sounds crazy, but when I was in the military I worked on TF 34 jet engines. Our technical manuals would have us apply Phillips milk of magnesia as an anti-seize compound on the nuts and bolts that held the hot section together. I speculate that those areas would get so hot that they were beyond the flashpoint of most anti-seize compounds. But it is a good cheap and non-hazardous alternative to standard anti-seize. Also easily applied, we would put all our nuts and bolts in a Ziploc bag, pour in a little milk of magnesia and shake the bag. I love your show!
Thanks for sharing.
Damon Traeger
When I find tips that crazy-genius, I have to try it. Now if you’re trolling me, my test subject won’t be an expensive victim.
Speaking of jet engines, you guys get a grin out of explaining the intricacies of axial compression to curious 12 year old wrenches. (Yeah, that was me 50 years ago). “Well, ya see son, yer family car sucks, squeezes, bangs, and blows....while this here screaming jet sucks, squeezes, and sneezes.” 😎
Hmm, makes sense, leaves a granular but crumbly material in the threads, without interacting chemically, and without lubricating the fastener much if any. Magnesia is an incredibly refractory oxide, it will literally outlast anything you can make a bolt out of -- besides tungsten and a couple neighboring metals (none of which you'd want to make a bolt out of, for various reasons).
Wish I saw your post before I posted. Yup my squadron used Milk of Magnesia on our T58-GE-8B turboshaft engines as well.
Damon Traeger I’ve also used this on extreme high temps(2500f). We decanted the liquid off and used the remainder on or studs and nuts. It really does work well in these circumstances
Hey I have a very interesting video idea! There are “home defense” bug sprays that claim to prevent bugs from entering the area you spray for up to 12 months! There are many different brands of this product. I think it could make a very interesting and informative video! Thanks project farm
well i dont think hes an entomologist but its possible he worked pesticides as a profession.
Wyatt Hrubes I’ve always thought .22 rat shot as a good home defense against bugs but maybe that’s just me.
Great video video idea! Thank you
Wyatt Hrubes “we’ve bought a variety of bugs to test with lol”
Yes! I live in an area with a lot of insects. I would love to know which residential home defense spray actually works
My dad has been using Copper anti-seize for decades, to no fail, we live in North TX not too worried about the salt and corrosion, but the heat does play a massive massive factor here.... Great vid
Great feedback. Thank you!
I just started using it on my car up here in NJ, plenty of salt in the winter and heat in the summer. Always works like a charm!
@@ProjectFarm what is your background? Farmer, college? Engeneering degree or just common sense and good imagination and fabrication skills?
I've had about the same results with a decent CV joint grease as I've had with anti seize so I usually use the grease, and I'm in the northeast.
@@MrTheHillfolk CV joint grease is high in molybdenum. Moly is one of the best metal lubes.
Youre the man PF. What dedication to do a video over 3months!!
Thanks!
Could you test garage floor epoxy kits to see which ones resist scratching, oil staining, heat/cold, and wear resistance? Hope this is a good video idea thanks
Great suggestion! Thank you.
That would be cool
Call Sherwin williams and ask them about tuff coat or the epoxy they have for concrete. Thats what installers use.
I'll save you all time. None of them. The end.
The problem with the Epoxies, is people don’t prep the floor correctly. Wash and Brush scrub with a strong Powder HE detergent, Tide Recommended. Throughly rinse and rinse again. Squeegee all standing water. Before the floor has a chance to dry, mix 10 parts water to One Part Muriatic Acid, apply with a stiff brush, let set for a half hour, and flush with plenty of water, squeegee standing water. Dry for a week, fan assist if needed, with nothing on the floor, and restrict foot traffic. Rubber boots, protective clothing, safety glasses, Face Shield are a must. A respirator maybe needed, if a enough cross ventilation can’t be provided. I’m not a fan of rubber gloves** when working with acids, prefer a bucket near with cool clear water, for frequent hand, skin washing. If you get acid in the glove**, you may not realize it, till major damage has been done
As a marine engineer for the last 30 years I can say that all of these anti-seize products are very limited when used in the marine environment. I stopped using these many years ago and instead use silicone grease (such as caterpillar o-ring lubricant, Dow Corning Formula 111, or NAPA Sil-Glyde). I find that Anti-Seize tends to loose it's oil or grease after awhile leaving only the dry flake. Then sea water seeps in and starts to cause corrosion. Silicone grease stays for years and years. Sea water has no effect on it. Extreme high heat can be a problem though. Exhaust manifold bolts is the only place I use copper based anti-Seize.
Thanks for sharing.
So would you recommend it for small engines exposed to the elements
Years ago i was worki g on miltary vechicals that had been stored 'n the kuwait desert sense desert storm page 1 worki g on M1 abrams and Bradlys mostly, i found the nuuts and bolts cam e off pretty da g easy after 11/12 years ever sense then ive used the cooper based anti seize on all y tower and antennas a d anythi g automotive and marine.
@not meatall
I've not been a marine engineer but have had good success with silicone grease on the farm.
Ive been using Tribology Tech-Lube silicone paste. It works well. I've found I need to wear gloves because if I get it on my hands they stay slippery for a while as washing doesn't really have much affect taking it off.
Maybe Project Farm will do a review of different silicone grease products.
I'm a retired marine engineer and I can tell you that anti-seize does work. Dow Corning does work on some things but not 950 degree superheat steam line flange studs but Loctite copper plated anti-seize does. Yard-birds don't like using it because it takes too much time to anti-seize the bolts and studs, and it is almost impossible to get them to apply it to fiber sheet gaskets. I always would have an understanding with the yard that they would apply it to boiler handhole plate threads after I had to burn off 80 handhole plate nuts one time when they used plain nuts instead of 2-H nuts, if they had used anti-seize the nuts would have not have galled.
"We're going to test them on threads"
Ok, makes sense.
"And test bare metal"
Works for me, a little extra data.
"And if it'll work as engine oil"
There's the Project Farm I love.
Thanks for watching!
I know. He seems to have a fetish with replacing engine oil with things that obviously wont work. I love it. Makes me laugh.
The copper high temp works better wether it's locktite or permatex. My first experience with locktite was on the mold board adjustment bolt (2.5 inch) on a 12 cat grader that had spent 6 months working rip rap on an ocean beach . Absolutely no problem getting it loose .
Ngl, I was waiting for the fluid film engine oil test.
Yeah he goes above and beyond everytime 👍🙌
You sir are a saint!!
This is the type of product testing the consumer needs to see!!!! You’re providing transparency to product Performance
oh, please. The main purpose of anti-seize is not as a lubricant but to prevent galling and seizing in high temperature applications up to 1800 deg. F. No petroleum based lubricant will survive that (not even 600 deg. F). Otherwise, just use grease if you want a lubricant... it's far less expensive. Would you put grease in an engine instead of oil? No... of course not. There is a reason anti-seize compounds are metallic based unlike any standard lubricant or grease. This "testing" is just nonsense. It's like asking if thread-locker works. Yes... it does and no "testing" required.
This where lawn mowers who lived wicked lives go when they die.
For Science!
the lawnmower purgatory.
XD
Most honorable death for a lawnmower
Only connecting rods are not properly built
I live by permatex anti-seize, I use it on about everything that gets exposed to weather, like bolts on the boat trailer. Thank for the video.
You are welcome!
Another happy permatex user here! Spark plugs and lugs mainly.
I'm not a mechanic, but I figured that since the Loctite Copper is so expensive, I'd figure the Permatix Aluminum is a good choice for those who are conscious of price. If you're really hurting, Nickle-Graf could work if the bolt won't be on for too long.
@@Kalmaro4152 I've tried both Aluminum, Copper and the older Nickel-based Loctite products on Exhaust Manifold bolts (a very tough place), and the newer Copper one is noticeably better than the older, almost useless Nickel based one.
We used anti-seize in high heat applications in a factory. The anti-seize was a graphite infused grease that coated metal parts and prevented corrosion and seizure due to heat. It worked great. We used to take it home and use it on high heat applications on our cars and trucks (exhaust manifold bolts, etc). I've never had a bolt or nut treated with anti-seize ever snap or seize. I've also used the same graphite product in anti-tamper applications to discourage vandals as once the grease gets on skin and fabric, it's very hard to remove. Get it on your coat, and you're throwing the coat away.
Thanks for the feedback.
Dang son.. that was a fun one.. when I was a lad of about 11 I started to rebuild lawn mower engines and now at 68.. I still do it now and then.. You always put out good information in such an enjoyable format.. thanks.. carry on!
Thank you very much!
After spending years working in refineries every bolt that I put back in my cars or bikes that does not use Loctite has anti-seize on it. It makes life easier my mechanic. (Me)
What's the best for spark plugs, aluminum head?
Neighbor sees you grilling and asks, "what's cookin'?"
You answer, "oh, just some nuts and bolts."
Neighbor leaves you alone... forever.
lol Thanks for watching.
Like when Klinger tried to eat a jeep lol
Only PF cooks Motor Oil & Hardware.. lol
I was wondering how his next batch of grilled hamburgers tasted.
@@ncdave4life Not sure about taste, but plenty of iron, no doubt. No need for supplements!
I spent half a day on the internet trying to get an idea about the best type of anti-seize / corrosion inhibitor to use for restoring my classic cars. After hours of research and still being confused, I watched your video and it gave me the answers I needed straight away. Thanks also for doing the wax and grease; they're things I probably would have tried but now I know their limitations. Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to do such conclusive tests in your videos; they're very educational and invaluable.
Thanks and you are welcome!
After two years working in the oil field, taking pipes apart after months outside at 15000psi, yes. It works
Usually.
Great feedback. Thank you
I work on industrial chillers and we coat water box bolts and studs in antiseize all the time. Then cover the equipment with insulation for five years and then open it again. No antiseize =broken bolts and studs.
Project Farm: "Can I borrow your lawn mower for the afternoon?"
Me: "NO!"
Great video!
lol Thanks!
You kidding? It'd come back cleaner than ever with a new gasket and spark plug to boot!
@@greyspot00 Yea, but it might have some anti-seize in the crankcase :D
@@greyspot00 Raburn's lawn mower ran for 6 minutes and 11 seconds without oil which was 27 seconds longer than Kyle's but not as good as the 8 minute showing by Bob's. In our next test we'll run over all three mowers with a train.
I bet he gets turned down a lot.
You know it's a good day when Project Farm uploads new content! I'm happy now :)
Awesome!! I greatly appreciate the huge compliment!
Yeah, and I just replaced my plugs last Thursday.
I have to wonder how many small engines you've killed and if you "notch" you tool belt for each dead motor..... Great work, Todd. Thanks for your methods, hard work and integrity.
Note:
AvE emphatically said, "Never-sieze" is NOT a lubricant."
it is abrasive
Correction: Never Sneeze
@@SurturLives you beat me
Dead Channel came to say the same oh well at least it’s been said lol
It's not a good lubricant, but it does lubricate the threads when torquing them down. Taper lock and QD bushings have a warning on them about putting never sieze on them, as it increases the clamping force so much you can split them in half.
Really enjoy your videos, have personally worked as a mechanic all my life and really appreciate all the hard work you put in to these videos. Very informative. And sometimes I’m surprised buy the out come of products you review . Appreciate your honesty and no B.S approach. Keep up the great work .
Thanks, will do!
Hey Chip, should anti seize be used on OEM Denso plugs going into Toyota aluminum 4 cylinder engines like the Camry?
Project Farm videos are one of my favorites to watch on You Tube. Product tests with no bias and well designed to show if the product actually works. I look forward to your next video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you!
Thanks!
You are welcome!
10 years living in Maine says yes, the anti-seize does work.
Yup! I bought a VW up here in Maine and someone was nice enough to use anti-seize, it was a pleasure to work on.
Great point!
ya same here in Minnesota but I also spray a can or two of chain lube on everything before every winter
you phrased it almost word for word from Mustie1 lol
Can we just appreciate the amount of time and effort he puts into these videos 👏🏻
I appreciate that!
We do, that's why we are subscribers.
Three whole months. It definitely is amazing how he didn't even forget about it, and still made such a nice video for all of us. Here's to hoping your channel reaches 10 million subscribers very quickly!
Thanks so much!
The only channel that all of the contents I watch never being skipped even a second and I can watch the same video more than once.
Thanks!
You are amazing. You have taken the often asked "Great product. I wonder what would happen if...". Great details and unbiased testing. Final results are always clearly displayed and easy to understand.
I have thoroughly love all of your videos. By looking at the 1.5 MILLION subscribers there a LOT of viewers that share my sentiment. Congratulations on the great growth of your channel.
Wow, thank you!
Remember to have a torch nearby. A bolt can't be seized if it's liquid
Heat is hard to beat! Thank you
My father broke a water tap in garden few days ago, half of old thread stuck in pipe. Extension to be correct, usually he will just go and buy new extension but with lockdown that's not a option. And only reason he ask me for help, usually he's to proud for that. Luckily chinesium taps melt at low temperatures, small blowtorch was enough to melt it away and install new tap.
Good ole Smoke wrench antiseize
@Dirty Harry problem is that with so many ppl buying only these cheapshit taps it's impossible to buy good one any more in my town. I'll need to travel don't know, 100km to buy good one. One can always order something online but you know how it's going usually, it leak and you need to buy new one fast and then you forget about it for a year and then again it leak and you can't wait for post order and circle is complete, infinity repeat (and Chinese GDP grow :D).
Nice job as usual. My dad taught me about anti-seize years ago. Use it daily at work, never lets you down.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
The dedication from this man, I never buy a tool or a product without checking if he tested it first, thank you so much. And I have no idea how he has over 300 million views and still likes and replies to every video, hands down one of the top 3 youtubers I watch
You are welcome!
The sheer quantity and quality of work that goes into your videos is incredible. We're lucky to benefit from your efforts.
Thank you!
thx for the laugh. putting anti-seizer in was a killer idea!
lol. Thank you! I had a LOT of fun with this video!
I really enjoyed the style of video No Time wasted whatsoever. Straight-to-the-point. It would be great to do a 10-year test. I own a Automotive repair shop in Illinois, they don't hold back on assault at all in the winter. As you pointed out in the beginning of your video it takes twice as long especially on exhaust bolts. The blue wrench is your best friend in such cases. If it would be great to have a fleet of vehicles operating in this area do the same amount of repairs, for example exhaust manifold and catalytic converters and anti-seize the studs. Anyhow, I will continue to use my copper anti seize on spark plugs and exhaust bolts.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
Wow 3 months spent applying rusting agent for this video. Appreciate the dedication!
Thank you very much!
"It didn't seize, but it sounds like it threw a rod!" LOL
More like snapped.. LOL
To be fair, it says it's anti-seize. It doesn't say it's anti break. lol
Anti-Seize is a must use here in the rust belt, it also prevents galling Stainless steel fasteners
Stainless steel fasteners are terrible for galling, even when brand new. Gotta put anti sieze on all the stainless hardware.
@@nikclev Yeah, I worked with a guy that didn't know, then we needed to try to undo a 3/4 x 14 bolt we had just installed. Out came the grinder. He apologized for not believing me.😉
On stainless copper works pretty good at normal temperatures but if high temps or dissimilar metals are involved go with straight nickle, and not nickle/graph. Based on over 30 years in mining, sawmills, and wastewater treatment. You wouldn't believe what 120+ degrees, condensing humidity, and 100ppm of H2S will do to metals. Half inch mild steel can disappear in less than a year.
Rich Diddens for the copper, you mean as a fastener coating?
You're the real champ here Farm Projects. You are doing a great service to all of us with these outstanding, unbiased, truthful videos. Keep up the great work man 👍
Much love from Alberta.
Thanks, will do!
Excellent video; your standard is so high.
The amount of work that goes into your productions is amazing. All I can say is thank you. My hat off to you sir.
Wow, thank you!
This video is much appreciated by me. Thank you!
I was an engineer for GE in the 70's and 80's. I supervised overhauls of GE gas turbine generator and compressor drive units all over the world. Bolts ranged from 1/2 inch to 2 inch and sometimes larger. Antiseize on absolutely clean threads was extremely necessary. The bolts in the hot sections were usually tough to remove a few years later. But the unit that somebody put together dry was a nightmare to take apart. We broke 1-1/4-8tpi bolts off on vertical joints and each had to be drilled out or ground out with peanut grinders before the section could be lifted out by crane. That took 5 days working around the clock and even more grinding and drilling once the turbine shell was removed. The magnetic base drill earned its keep on that job.
Some of the smaller steam turbines we worked on typically had 4 foot long studs with 4 inch diameter threads. These studs had a 3/4 inch hole drilled through the center end to end. We put a special oxy-acetelene-compressed air heater in the hole to heat the stud from the inside to blow hot air through it.The turbine cases had to be cold...room temperature first. After proper heating of the stud, the top and bottom nuts came off easily if they had been assembled with antiseize years before. The heat makes the stud grow lengthwise and they come off pretty easily if they had been assembled with anti seize like C5-A or Nickel Never Seez.
To tighten the studs, you put them all in with nuts on top and bottom. Then you smacked each one with a slugging wrench, huge forged steel heavy duty box end wrenches tied to a rope with some big guy smacking the end of the wrench. We used a 6 pound sledge hammer until it stopped. Then we marked the nuts and casing with a soapstone. A chart tells you how many more degrees to turn to tighten the nut after heating the stud for 15 minutes or so. Very often we could turn the nut by gloved hands to match the other mark on the casing, no wrench necessary. When it cooled down, the stud would require many thousands of foot pounds to remove the nut. Do this to all of the casing studs and that turbine shell remains massively tight whether hot or cold.
The one time some mechanic at a large lumber mill thought it would be better to glass bead blast the studs on a steam turbine before assembly, every one of them galled up coming apart even coated with anti seize. The customer screwed up the overhaul and we were called in 2 weeks later to take it apart again and fix it right. We fought those nuts off with slugging wrenches all the way and had to replace several of the 150 pound studs because the threads were galled so badly. We always wirewheeled all of the threads on all jobs and made sure they were clean. We used Nerver Seez nickel on high temperature bolts, C5-A copper on 200 degree or less applications.
There was also special anti seize with a pedigree and trace-ability papers as to when and where it was made , serial number on each can. We used this extreme high dollar stuff on ''Sub Safe'' and ''Mercury Free'' certified jobs on small turbines, reactor feed pumps, and main propulsion turbines on nuclear powered subs and aircraft carriers. It takes a month to do a 4 day job with all of the barriers, paperwork, witnesses, specifications, inspections, red tape, etc.
To this day in my late 60's I assemble every bolted piece in my work shop, cars, truck, etc, with anti seize. The cost is peanuts for the headaches it saves.
Great information! Thank you
Wow loved reading this
@@saulj6045
I plumb wore out my typing finger writing this. I tried speech to text writing once but it invents cuss words I never heard before..My mom, rest her soul, never forgave me. I'm glad you liked it.
Wow ! Who are you ? We have a G.E. plant in our cinti. area. Your comments were amazing !! - I use the stuff on brake jobs constantly . aluminum wheels to steel hubs ect. ... I really enjoyed the commentary on your past work experience's !!!
90 day long experiment?! This is why I subscribe. Very thorough and committed 💪👍
Awesome! Thank you!
I have been using anti-seize on exhaust bolts and brake bolts since I was a kid and always wondered if Dad was right. It's nice to see an actual test. And, I feel justified for using it all these years...............plus, I've never broken a bolt or wheel stud when using it.
Thanks for the feedback.
This guy needs a website where he catalogs all these tests, maybe someone who has time could make one for him