Really liked this! Was ready to get all angry about the strength thing because I have a mild physical disability, I'm in my 40s, with massive legs and small arms and short torso, and therefore (relatively speaking) 'weak as shit'. I've only been climbing for 18 months but still... But - of course! - you came in with the nuance. And it reminds me when I first started properly trying crimpy stuff this summer and complaining about my weak fingers - a good-natured staff member at my local wall casually hollered "yeah but are you REALLY trying your hardest?" at me one time, and I had to admit i wasn't. And yeah, the act of trying hard (especially when you also unlock some understanding of the chains of connectivity from one side/end of the body to another) actually helps *build* more strength. I'm still a newbie but i can crimp harder than i could six months ago. I do have to be careful because of my age and my genetically shitty collagen, so I'm also glad I frontloaded geeking out on hip mobility, body positioning and footwork early on in my climbing, but ultimately it's just about choosing the right tool - strength, power, tekkers, smarts, goofy, dumb, or a whatever combination - for whatever job you're working on. Great content, mate! I always enjoyed your Insta reels but your communication style works equally well in longer formats.
I'm sometimes get joined by colleagues who climb several grades below me. Often they can not replicate the more complex technique because of lack of strength (finger, mostly upper body, sometimes core), even if the technique makes it significantly easier (for me) and is definitely the easiest way of climbing the route. So don't forget to get strong while you constantly try advanced techniques!
This is definitely true. I speak as a 45yo novice climber with hypermobility spectrum disorder (shitty collagen) and the polar opposite of optimal limb proportions for climbing. Over the last 18 months since I started climbing I've often found one area of my body - core, fingers or forearms, say - will get completely tired out before the rest of me feels like I've properly worked out. I could use all the leg power, footwork, hip mobility and body positioning in the world and then just not be able to stick a move because of limited contact strength or ability to maintain tension. I've had to supplement climbing with S&C training because I'd risk injuring certain joints through overuse/overcompensation by only climbing. I initially spent more time on the wall just working on technique, and did (and still do) targeted strength training on areas that need it. I did find, however, after about six months in, that mucking about trying boulders ridiculously way above my ability level just for a laugh/for the sheer hell of it also taught me a lot. And also being yelled at (all in good humour) by a member of our gym staff to simply try harder did make me realise I could actually put in way more effort than I was actually doing.
i kinda like the attitude of building strength first. if you are weak and you can't hold an unstable position long enough or with enough ease to figure out how to use your feet to get the weight off of your arms how are you gonna learn technique. It seems like there is an attitude of strength being a crutch that holds you back in the long run because you use it instead of technique and therefore don't learn the "right" way. I think it is untrue and motivated by jealousy. myself and two buddies have been climbing for about the same amount of time and the one who was physically strongest at the start ( not me) has the best technique as well. he got on the crimps, chips and slopers faster so he has "more experience" with hard climbs.
“When your arms are slightly bent, your fingers are stronger”: this just isn’t true for a lot of folks, some people are stronger on a straight arm, especially people with very long arms
if we look at the vast majority of climbers, they can engage their fingers better with a slight bend in their arms. Engage as in "pull" harder. It is true, some climbers can hang better with a straight arm but if we want to exert force then a straight arm is not optimal because if you pull with a straight arm you're just puling with the shoulder and lats. Vs pulling with a bent arm which incorporates the arms as well, more muscles being use will generally lead to more force. I won't deny that some climbers do hang better on a straight vs bent arm position. But in my experience, most climbers hang better off the hangboard with a bent arm especially when doing one arm hangs. Those that can't usually just have poor lockoff strength
@ right, weaker lockoff strength and long arms usually go hand in hand, and that’s the biggest contributor to what position you find easiest. My point is if your advice is to beginner or the general climber then it’s probably not right to assume that most of them have substantial lockoff strength that they’ll find the bent arm position easier. At least from my experience it varies a fair amount, just like some people preferring 3fd or crimped positions based on their finger morphology
@@soccutd77yeah but this video is about improving your strength. A person with long arms that hangs more comfortably with a straight arm is lacking the strength to engage the bicep and shoulder for a slight bend. When they gain the strength required, there will be an increase in power as they are able to engage a larger group of muscles. At the same time, this leaves efficiency out of the discussion. Even the strongest person in the world will hang more efficiently the fewer muscles they use, but concentrating that effort in the fingers rather than distributing it across more muscles might not be the best method for powerful moves. I also could be wrong, but love this guy for mentality and drive!
This might not be true for a very niche set of people who have very strong fingers and very weak arms, but for the overwhelming majority of people it is true
@ he’s talking about beta here not strength. Also “when they gain the strength required” is not really a guarantee: look at Allison vest or benn wheeler. Some really insanely strong athletes that are just stronger on straight arms because they have big positive ape indices.
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbing just a curious climber man, no hate. just wondering cuz its pretty scary to misinform/ give faulty ideas to people that have no idea whether you know what you're talking about. also, if you have the proper knowledge and background, it makes you more trustworthy. hope this helps
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbing You said a few things that really got me thinking and I eventually realized I couldn’t keep up with the video. Too much good stuff to unpack. Had to rewatch. Your qualifications are self evident. 😀
@@aaryabhatt4581 Bruh he climbs like v10/11. Your comment comes off as aggressive, and makes you sound like a douche bag. Ask the question in a better way next time.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
“Am I too weak, or just dumb…” 😂
This was like a Climbing For Dummies guide. Broken down so stupidly simple that they're kind of genius. Great advice here.
glad it helped
Really liked this! Was ready to get all angry about the strength thing because I have a mild physical disability, I'm in my 40s, with massive legs and small arms and short torso, and therefore (relatively speaking) 'weak as shit'. I've only been climbing for 18 months but still...
But - of course! - you came in with the nuance. And it reminds me when I first started properly trying crimpy stuff this summer and complaining about my weak fingers - a good-natured staff member at my local wall casually hollered "yeah but are you REALLY trying your hardest?" at me one time, and I had to admit i wasn't. And yeah, the act of trying hard (especially when you also unlock some understanding of the chains of connectivity from one side/end of the body to another) actually helps *build* more strength. I'm still a newbie but i can crimp harder than i could six months ago.
I do have to be careful because of my age and my genetically shitty collagen, so I'm also glad I frontloaded geeking out on hip mobility, body positioning and footwork early on in my climbing, but ultimately it's just about choosing the right tool - strength, power, tekkers, smarts, goofy, dumb, or a whatever combination - for whatever job you're working on.
Great content, mate! I always enjoyed your Insta reels but your communication style works equally well in longer formats.
I feel the unlock of "grit out an extra second of don't fall" is so good. Its a belief builder!
Yeah, I really need to make more use of this one. I do myself such a disservice by getting too comfortable with just dropping off the wall 😖.
I'm sometimes get joined by colleagues who climb several grades below me. Often they can not replicate the more complex technique because of lack of strength (finger, mostly upper body, sometimes core), even if the technique makes it significantly easier (for me) and is definitely the easiest way of climbing the route. So don't forget to get strong while you constantly try advanced techniques!
This is definitely true. I speak as a 45yo novice climber with hypermobility spectrum disorder (shitty collagen) and the polar opposite of optimal limb proportions for climbing. Over the last 18 months since I started climbing I've often found one area of my body - core, fingers or forearms, say - will get completely tired out before the rest of me feels like I've properly worked out. I could use all the leg power, footwork, hip mobility and body positioning in the world and then just not be able to stick a move because of limited contact strength or ability to maintain tension.
I've had to supplement climbing with S&C training because I'd risk injuring certain joints through overuse/overcompensation by only climbing. I initially spent more time on the wall just working on technique, and did (and still do) targeted strength training on areas that need it.
I did find, however, after about six months in, that mucking about trying boulders ridiculously way above my ability level just for a laugh/for the sheer hell of it also taught me a lot.
And also being yelled at (all in good humour) by a member of our gym staff to simply try harder did make me realise I could actually put in way more effort than I was actually doing.
Always appreciate a Peaky Blinders reference when learning about climbing
I really liked the 10s static before and after rule! It seems like a good rules of thumb
You gave it clearly some thoughts, good effort and thanks for sharing this
Just don't let go. Simple! Good tips.
Surprising good advice from a random small channel
good video for me > a beginner.
thanks, i like your style of climbing, keep going with this :)
hope it helps ya
cool video man what are the measurements of ur board
it's 8 ft tall and 12 wide.
i kinda like the attitude of building strength first. if you are weak and you can't hold an unstable position long enough or with enough ease to figure out how to use your feet to get the weight off of your arms how are you gonna learn technique. It seems like there is an attitude of strength being a crutch that holds you back in the long run because you use it instead of technique and therefore don't learn the "right" way. I think it is untrue and motivated by jealousy. myself and two buddies have been climbing for about the same amount of time and the one who was physically strongest at the start ( not me) has the best technique as well. he got on the crimps, chips and slopers faster so he has "more experience" with hard climbs.
Good stuff.
I am too weak *and* just dumb
time to get stronger then
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbing Working on it!
if you don't feel weak and dumb, the climb is not hard enough! :D
“When your arms are slightly bent, your fingers are stronger”: this just isn’t true for a lot of folks, some people are stronger on a straight arm, especially people with very long arms
if we look at the vast majority of climbers, they can engage their fingers better with a slight bend in their arms. Engage as in "pull" harder. It is true, some climbers can hang better with a straight arm but if we want to exert force then a straight arm is not optimal because if you pull with a straight arm you're just puling with the shoulder and lats. Vs pulling with a bent arm which incorporates the arms as well, more muscles being use will generally lead to more force.
I won't deny that some climbers do hang better on a straight vs bent arm position. But in my experience, most climbers hang better off the hangboard with a bent arm especially when doing one arm hangs. Those that can't usually just have poor lockoff strength
@ right, weaker lockoff strength and long arms usually go hand in hand, and that’s the biggest contributor to what position you find easiest. My point is if your advice is to beginner or the general climber then it’s probably not right to assume that most of them have substantial lockoff strength that they’ll find the bent arm position easier. At least from my experience it varies a fair amount, just like some people preferring 3fd or crimped positions based on their finger morphology
@@soccutd77yeah but this video is about improving your strength. A person with long arms that hangs more comfortably with a straight arm is lacking the strength to engage the bicep and shoulder for a slight bend. When they gain the strength required, there will be an increase in power as they are able to engage a larger group of muscles.
At the same time, this leaves efficiency out of the discussion. Even the strongest person in the world will hang more efficiently the fewer muscles they use, but concentrating that effort in the fingers rather than distributing it across more muscles might not be the best method for powerful moves.
I also could be wrong, but love this guy for mentality and drive!
This might not be true for a very niche set of people who have very strong fingers and very weak arms, but for the overwhelming majority of people it is true
@ he’s talking about beta here not strength. Also “when they gain the strength required” is not really a guarantee: look at Allison vest or benn wheeler. Some really insanely strong athletes that are just stronger on straight arms because they have big positive ape indices.
what makes you qualified to give advice to people?
what makes you qualified to ask me questions?
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbingdamn u tell them 😂
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbing just a curious climber man, no hate. just wondering cuz its pretty scary to misinform/ give faulty ideas to people that have no idea whether you know what you're talking about. also, if you have the proper knowledge and background, it makes you more trustworthy. hope this helps
@@ChengisAlwaysClimbing You said a few things that really got me thinking and I eventually realized I couldn’t keep up with the video. Too much good stuff to unpack. Had to rewatch. Your qualifications are self evident. 😀
@@aaryabhatt4581 Bruh he climbs like v10/11. Your comment comes off as aggressive, and makes you sound like a douche bag. Ask the question in a better way next time.