Really nice video. Straight to the point, lot of examples. It will really help me a lot. I had no idea about the positioning (and elbow trick) to use for the sloppers for example (they suck).
The dragging the fingers on the wall to go into a crimp has probably solved my biggest issue with them. I'm pretty good at crimps for my grade but my skin seemed to move a little making my fingers dry fire a lot. This feels like it would solve the problem.
I wish you had a more likeable personality cause you’re quite informative but god damn the way you talk is frustrating xD Like a robotic breakdancer or sum xD
Cheng's climbing videos are not the appropriate place for him to be speaking "normally."🙅♂ His unique sort of poetic rambling delivery makes it easier to at least kinda understand concepts like in this video that are actually very dry and complex. Hardly any other climbing channels even attempt to explain the kind of advanced knowledge that he drops.
@@Sepp2009 If you boulder V10, probably nothing.😅 So, it's a matter of perspective, but what I see here that stands out the most is how to torque your limbs and/or fingers to optimize the force you can apply to holds. Removing slack from our climbing system (i.e. our bodies with all their stretchable connective tissue) is key to force transfer. Using twisting motions to create torque is one of the primary means of doing this in climbing. I guess what I appreciate about Cheng's videos is that he is able to show a lot of relevant examples quickly with his delivery style. Careful speech takes time and planning, and sometimes it's not worth it when you can just as well be showing what you mean through visual demonstrations.
Man, I just love the way you talk about things! Is super clear, and that "click" you do is satisfying af. Keep up the good work, my friend!
thxs and will do brother
I feel a little proud whenever I figure out an unusual way to use a hold that actually works better for that climb
Really cool vid, very useful thanks
Really nice video. Straight to the point, lot of examples. It will really help me a lot.
I had no idea about the positioning (and elbow trick) to use for the sloppers for example (they suck).
thanks. hope you can see the improvements
The dragging the fingers on the wall to go into a crimp has probably solved my biggest issue with them. I'm pretty good at crimps for my grade but my skin seemed to move a little making my fingers dry fire a lot. This feels like it would solve the problem.
Three finger drag gives best tradeoff of power v. mobility.
Keep up the good work
Crimp is my favorite by far, even more than jugs
you're wild man. lol
Going to work „slipadation“ into my vocabulary
good sh*t 👍
Thank you for covering slopers, can you cover overhang please ?
i don't see why not
The right way to hold a hold is the way that sticks.
the right way is the easiest on your body to not fatigue yourself excessively
I think this is a sign that Cheng needs to buy/make more holds... including more underclings
8:45....except gastons!
Great!
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Pinches.
I wish you had a more likeable personality cause you’re quite informative but god damn the way you talk is frustrating xD
Like a robotic breakdancer or sum xD
have you tried talking normally?
Cheng's climbing videos are not the appropriate place for him to be speaking "normally."🙅♂ His unique sort of poetic rambling delivery makes it easier to at least kinda understand concepts like in this video that are actually very dry and complex. Hardly any other climbing channels even attempt to explain the kind of advanced knowledge that he drops.
@adamhaas141 what's advanced knowledge here?
@@Sepp2009 If you boulder V10, probably nothing.😅 So, it's a matter of perspective, but what I see here that stands out the most is how to torque your limbs and/or fingers to optimize the force you can apply to holds. Removing slack from our climbing system (i.e. our bodies with all their stretchable connective tissue) is key to force transfer. Using twisting motions to create torque is one of the primary means of doing this in climbing. I guess what I appreciate about Cheng's videos is that he is able to show a lot of relevant examples quickly with his delivery style. Careful speech takes time and planning, and sometimes it's not worth it when you can just as well be showing what you mean through visual demonstrations.