Thank you for the video. We forgot to change our filter at the 6 month point, so the dirty filter caused the same problem you described. I checked the sensor as you advised and tapped it with a screwdriver very lightly. Heat for my wife again. Yay!
You are the man! I have a one year old Carrier heater and this was the problem. That sensor had dirt from the new construction and it is very important to change your air filters. THANK YOU!
Have a similar unit but not setup the same. Pulled the panels and found a similar sensor, removed the 2 screws and shook off the sensor ( full of soot). Turned the power back on and cranking hot air! Thank you so much for the video!
Make sure you have carbon monoxide detectors. Soot could be a sign of burn issues. Maybe it's just an old system and it slowly built up over time. But be safe!
The device you are talking about is the *_High temperature Limit (sensor) control._* It's a switch that opens on overly high temperature. Apparently yours got stuck open. Maybe you said it in the video, but your furnace over heated because the air flow was inadequate due to a clogged filter. On some furnaces it's possible to adjust the fan speed. It's possible your main fan is operating a bit too slowly, and not moving enough air. On a high efficiency furnace it's possible that the secondary heat exchanger's fins can become clogged. Grayfurnaceman on RUclips has a lot of great videos on how to check for that along with videos on how to determine the hot air temperature in you discharge duct, along with how to adjust it.
Luckily, this is the first video that I clicked on while searching for a way to solve this issue. My furnace is working just fine now, thanks 1 billion.
Man you saved the day wish I would of seen your video last night before the snow. Anyhoot thanks. Saved me a call to the HVAC guy. Depot filter tore and sensor did it's job.
Thank you for posting this! I understand that the filter feature prevents a larger problem, however I wish it was easier to reset heat fan blower for the homeowner.
Omg THANK YOU! I’ve been searching forever for what the heck happened. Our furnace was brand new last year. The filter was absolutely CAKED with dirt. I had the exact same failure codes as you. The day before it stopped working, we had it so hot it in the house it was damn near tropical, so it overheating is absolutely the reason.
My recommendation is to use 30 day filters i stead of the denser filters. Change them regularly. If allergies are a problem and you need substantjal air fiitration, then change those filters much more often than you normally would because those denser filters will begin to be filled with particulates a lot quicker than the 30day filters. The high limit switch could fail early because of the excessive heat built up over time in the beat exchanger because of the plugged ait filter
Holy crap !!!!! It worked !!!! Clogged fiter,,,,,flicked that darn probe ,,,,,( i did not have meter to see if fixed it ) and .....damn it works.......thank you , thank you , thank you !!!! ps how did you know to flick that probe ! brilliant !!!!!
Thank you for sharing this information. It was very helpful. My heater is working and blowing out hot air again. i checked the filter and that was all it needed. THANK YOU
Exactly the problem I had. Didn't think logically the filter in the home could impact furnace operation but it did. Thank you much, from another doofus. 😃
Zach Denton...same here... since this video it started short cycling again due to the filter. Put a new one in and it's fine. So I guess it's one filter per 1.5 months for me..
IT WAS THE FILTER!! I'm such a doofus. If you don't take care of that little bugger your whole house will be cold. We are warming again. Thank God and the internet!
Backside of a screwdriver bang on the panel a few times check continuity again, if it is now closed you don't have to remove it, at least for now.... Great tip thanks!
I had the exact same problem for the exactly same reason and i fixed it with the help of this and few other video .... thank you for sharing the video :) You made my day :)
Good idea to have spare flame sensor, spark ignitor, and filters at all times. I even have some extra limit switches. Never want to wait until a freezing day to need these parts.
Thanks one thing more can you please tell me what is that big bang when the blower end or stopping it’s annoying to hear thanks again hope you’ll help me (or a video)
Steve... My Goodman motor tries to start but doesn't. Red light is steady on, which means system is ok. I've taken out and cleaned the ignitors on both sides of the burners. It worked great for a day after I did that, but it won't start now. It had been raining last night. Can moisture somewhere be the issue? Exhaust pvp pipe to outside of house has wire mesh so I don't think anything has been able to crawl in the pipe. Also replaced both filters.
My 5 year old Bryant furnace recently started short cycling and not getting up to temperature even with a new filter, but if the filter is removed it works fine. I suspect the limit switch, it's L170-20F. Does this sound like the problem and does the replacement have to be the same specs or how close does it have to be and would there be an advantage to using one with slightly different specs? Any help is appreciated - Thanks.
I got a Rheem code 46 "Low Pressure Switch Open - Inducer on Low" and the inducer kicks on and off non-stop. Is this a pressure switch issue or inducer motor? Sometimes it does go ahead and fire up, but gets caught at some point during the day clicking on and off.
by the way, not all limit switches are made the same, mine are normally closed and fail open, obviously check your schematics to verify which is the case for your furnace
Hi Steve, I’m having the same problem for the first time. Usually, I had problems with the “flame sensor”. I was wondering if you had symptoms of the furnace being great at one interval, it will go perfectly to temp, then the next time it turned on, the burners didn’t turn on and it was blowing cold air ? I just ordered the “limit switch” for mine because of great videos like yours, but no one talks about the early symptoms of a failing “limit switch”. I have heard, that if a new limit switch or a new filter doesn’t do the trick, then the A-coil above the furnace, in the plenum can be clogged, causing overheating issues, and a service person will need to be called. Please let me know if you had any symptoms before your limit switch went for a poop. Thank you
Ironically we moved and I'm having nearly the exact same issue! The jury is still out on what is wrong. Mine might be fine for a day or two, then it will stop lighting and the blower just stays on. I polished the flame sensor and it worked fine for a day and stopped again. I bent the sensor more towards the flame and it worked for 5 days while I bought a new flame sensor. The new flame sensor did NOT fix it, and it will still fire normally at times. The A- coil is not that hard to clean. However it's pretty rare that it would get dirty enough to overheat the furnace. When the AC runs, the coil is naturally cleaned by condensation which drains out. Unless the drain is clogged or you have incredibly hairy pets it should be fine. You could take the cover off and look! It's not hard to look, harder to clean though haha. I'm still working on mine...one thing to try is wiggle the wires on the control board. I think I might have a loose connection or a board going bad. Looks like they're $50 online but I know they'd charge like $700-1000 to do it for me....UGH.
Right now mine will run perfectly fine, but at times it will but the gas, attempt to reignite but it won't feed any gas. The igniter glows but no dice. My next check is that I get 24v to the gas valve when it calls for heat...but I'm out of town right now haha. Last time it would not fire at all, when I wiggled some wires on the control board it fired right up....I'll update if I figure it out lol. Meanwhile, a flame sensor and limit switch are easy replacements.
Just an FYI - my furnace randomly works heat to set temp. Swapped the easy flame sensor, no dice. It ended up being a bad main board. The furnace would turn on just like normal, but the gas wouldn't fire. I even changed the gas valve. Turns out the main board wasn't giving the valve good voltage consistently. Been perfect ever since!
Another doofus here. I don't see the square thinggy with the bi-metal thinggy in my Lennox. I've go a nearly identical setup as shown here. The round thinggy with the two wires and the yellow dot is there in mine. Everything else is the same except the thing that we're supposed to check. So I shut the whole thing down for a few hours, changed the filter and tried again. It worked.
I would have liked a more direct approach, starting with the idea that someone messing with this knows how to read resistance with a meter. So, more quickly, am I looking for zero ohms, or open? Then, having read what it shouldn't be, maybe tap or flick to see if it comes free (things now work). in that case, get a new sensor.
I have a Rheem Criterion that started blowing cold air. I noticed the igniter stopped working and no gas coming out when blower kicked on. The air filter (kitchen ceiling intake) was dirty so I replaced. Also replaced igniter, limit switch, and pressure switch. I cleaned the flame sensor and checked condensate pan…no water. Also troubleshot the circuit board, appears good. What am I missing?
1) the draft fan should come on 2) a click occurs opening gas valve (hear it?) 3) ignitor lights gas 4) big fan turns on You can check if the gas valve is getting any voltage by removing the wires and monitoring them during startup routine. My "new" house has a 16yo unit. No gas was coming out. It ended up the main board was sending *some* voltage but couldn't keep the valve working. I replaced the main board and it's been great ever since.
I had the same problem years ago but it was not a dirty filter. On every unit built after the dinosaur age (heehee) they have a sensor called the "flame sensor' that monitors the flame being burned to heat the home. These newer machines will run the furnace fan constantly if there is no flame to help the occupants realize something is very wrong because it will be very cold in the house. The guy in this video said he cleaned his flame sensor but did not check to see if that fixed it. He should have. He did several things and then stated that the filter was the culprit. That, is VERY bad troubleshooting. Examples: Change the filter - see if it works.....if not....Clean the flame sensor - see if it works...if it does....then stop messing with it! 20 minutes work.....tops! My flame sensor had dropped from its normal position. By this I mean, it is mounted close to the flame and the metal piece (sensor) that was supposed to be in the actual flame had come loose and fallen. It did not come apart, just fell from the correct position. Example: normal position should be 9 pm or 270 degrees. Mine had fallen out (gravity) of the flame to the 6 pm or 180 degree position. I hope that I have made sense to some of you DIYers out there. So, it cost me $16.00 for a new sensor from a local furnace shop. I am very lucky they had one in stock because I live at 6,000 feet and it was January when it went bad. It was only 10 degrees outside at the time. Only 56 degrees in the house. On another note and I see that someone posting a reply to this video commented - do not use too tight, restrictive, of a filter in your furnace. I use a MERV7 Pleated from Menard's and it lasts 3 months costing only less than $3.00 a pop (filter). A restrictive filter such as a MERV12 can significantly reduce air flow especially if you are a smoker because it can clog in as little time as 1 week after changing from all that smoke. Also, forced air furnaces need proper circulation in order to maximize efficiency. Close the doors to all rooms and make sure there is a minimum of a 1 inch gap at the bottom of the door to allow air to return to the furnace. A ceiling fan in the winter mode, fan blowing up, at low setting helps during excessively cold days. The absolute easiest part of maintaining the furnace is to CHANGE THE FILTER regularly. Daily, weekly, monthly, every 3 months, every 6 months(??) it depends on the unit doing the service to your needs. It's up to you...unless.....you are filthy stinkin' rich and can't do anything for yourself. I am a master technician and hope that what I have shared is helpful
Steve, If you would have then people would not be so confused such as me....a master technician. You did not specifically state that the dirty filter fixed the issue and if you did it was not CONSPICUOUS! Why did you fire the furnace without a filter? The force of the air will throw dirt throughout your house. I think you would be shocked if you completed a degree at a credible HVAC school and watched this video again.
@@mdv5845 ... With the flame sensor, I said I cleaned it and it "didn't do anything"...in other words, it didnt fix it. You are right, starting the blower without a filter is bad. But for a short demonstration video it is not the end of the world. I shot this on a sick day, home from work feeling like garbage. Sure, it could be better. I have a degree in mechanical engineering. While I'm not am HVAC tech, I do understand the principles behind the functions of HVAC systems. Replacing the dirty filter did NOT fix the issue, it caused the issue with the limit sensor. Thus I tell people to change their filter to keep this from happening.
Can you tell me which model is your furnace it's the same model as mine, can you help me, the board sensor is giving 57 error code which is a pressure switch open, but I don't know where to locate that from my furnace and how to fix it?
I have a question- my capacitor went out and I had an ac company come fix it. While there he worked on the capacitor without turning off my electricity at the fuse panel. Three big flashes of light came from the inside unit, the lights flickered and the flashes of light came out again, then he asked where the fuse box was located. 20 minutes later all of my electricity blew out and the fuse box started smoking. I had to call an electrician fix the wires. The ac company said they never turn off the fuse box power bc there's a shutoff at the ac- which I cannot find. He then stated to basically prove they caused it. Three weeks prior they were out to fix the hot water heater which I'm guessing he would have to shutoff the power and they never mentioned my wires were messed up. And he said it was a good thing his guy was there to stop my house from blowing up. Does this sound correct to you? And can you tell me where the shutoff valve is on a carrier unit? Sorry my story was so long.
Marnie Reynolds...I'm an engineer, so I do know a bit, but I'm not exactly an AC pro. If he was working on the capacitor of the AC unit outside, there is usually a box mounted to the house with a thick cable running to it. If you open the box there is a large fuse you can remove to cut the power to the AC. That is the "switch" he's talking about. I would definitely ask what the electrician thought of the inside panel damage. In general, if the AC guy shorted something out, the outside fuse would theoretically blow before causing damage to the inside panel. I would ask the electrician which wire's were fried inside and how he thinks it happened. It could have just been a bad breaker in your panel.
coming from a certified ac tech myself yes there is a shut off switch on the handlers idk about the whole house blowing up lol smh he just forgot two hit it off the handler breaker switch that is in handeler sometimes !!!!!!! $olved
Steve he never went outside- he was only working at the inside a/c unit which is why I don't believe he shutoff the fuse to the a/c. I know which ones were blown because I still have the whole set of wires which caught fire. He told me I would have to prove not him.
you lost voltage to the circuit board you could have blown a fuse on the circuit board the condensate drain float is tripped The door switch is faulty need more info
For me the reading across switches shows zero. The fan runs as well. The heating light turns on but does not start burning then the light goes off, then the heating light comes back again and this keeps repeating but no heat. Please help
David I've heard of filters in return air registers as well. Any filter that is clogged will reduce the air flow and could cause this problem. Also by "flick" I mean use your fingers and give it a good tap, or thump once or twice.
Don't buy a pleated filter they restrict airflow wayyyyyyyyyyy too much. If you want a good filter don't be cheap and get media filters, if not possible buy the cheapest 1 inch filters you can buy
Darren Lam you have to take the limit switch out to see it. On the video it's the sensor on the upper left with two wires going to it. Your model may be different.
Sir Murdock any codes? This video helps if you have a "main limit" code. I'd start at the top...Change filter, clean flame sensor, then limit switch (this video). Codes will be your biggest help.
Sequence of operation on a call for heat Thermostat on Inducer motor energized Pressure switch closes Hot surface igniter on Gas valve opens Flame sensor senses flame Blower motor energized
Sequence of events is: your inducer fan would come on, then if the pressure switch proves the inducer fan is blowing, then the igniter would light, the gas would ignite , then go off. At that point the flame sensor would probably be the culprit, but I’m sure yours wasn’t lighting, so I wouldn’t have suspected the flame sensor. Your bad on sequence of events troubleshooting!
I have a Trane XB Propane Furnace (2009) that will not light unless I tap on the air intake tube. I cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool. I've checked the pressure switch with your "soda straw" method, and I hear the 2 clicks. However, I suppose the switch could still be the problem. The inducer fan blows air, The ignitor glows, but the gas doesn't ignite. I don't have professional HVAC test tools, so I'm hoping I can fix this by simply replacing the pressure switch or ignitor. Here is a video I made of the issue: ruclips.net/video/QLoN2bT9MJE/видео.html
Tim Rainey ... it kind of depends what's clicking. If it's a newer furnace and the igniter is clicking but didn't light, I would guess it's not getting fuel to light. Might be a bad gas valve. It could just be a thermocouple as well. Ignition issues are more complex, and if you DIY you might be wasting cash guessing the problem. Might just want to make the dreaded call...
![Eminem - Fuel (Shady Edition) feat. Westside Boogie & GRIP [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k1OquBida9s/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the video. We forgot to change our filter at the 6 month point, so the dirty filter caused the same problem you described. I checked the sensor as you advised and tapped it with a screwdriver very lightly. Heat for my wife again. Yay!
You are the man! I have a one year old Carrier heater and this was the problem. That sensor had dirt from the new construction and it is very important to change your air filters. THANK YOU!
Have a similar unit but not setup the same. Pulled the panels and found a similar sensor, removed the 2 screws and shook off the sensor ( full of soot). Turned the power back on and cranking hot air! Thank you so much for the video!
Make sure you have carbon monoxide detectors. Soot could be a sign of burn issues. Maybe it's just an old system and it slowly built up over time. But be safe!
after hours of searching ur video gave me all i needed to get my heat fixed I love you mang
The device you are talking about is the *_High temperature Limit (sensor) control._* It's a switch that opens on overly high temperature. Apparently yours got stuck open. Maybe you said it in the video, but your furnace over heated because the air flow was inadequate due to a clogged filter. On some furnaces it's possible to adjust the fan speed. It's possible your main fan is operating a bit too slowly, and not moving enough air. On a high efficiency furnace it's possible that the secondary heat exchanger's fins can become clogged. Grayfurnaceman on RUclips has a lot of great videos on how to check for that along with videos on how to determine the hot air temperature in you discharge duct, along with how to adjust it.
Luckily, this is the first video that I clicked on while searching for a way to solve this issue. My furnace is working just fine now, thanks 1 billion.
Man you saved the day wish I would of seen your video last night before the snow. Anyhoot thanks. Saved me a call to the HVAC guy. Depot filter tore and sensor did it's job.
Thank you for posting this! I understand that the filter feature prevents a larger problem, however I wish it was easier to reset heat fan blower for the homeowner.
Omg THANK YOU! I’ve been searching forever for what the heck happened. Our furnace was brand new last year. The filter was absolutely CAKED with dirt. I had the exact same failure codes as you.
The day before it stopped working, we had it so hot it in the house it was damn near tropical, so it overheating is absolutely the reason.
thank you for hharing I always come back to this channel to review to turn on my wall heater back on.
My recommendation is to use 30 day filters i stead of the denser filters. Change them regularly. If allergies are a problem and you need substantjal air fiitration, then change those filters much more often than you normally would because those denser filters will begin to be filled with particulates a lot quicker than the 30day filters. The high limit switch could fail early because of the excessive heat built up over time in the beat exchanger because of the plugged ait filter
My wife and I thank you. Saved us a house call over the holiday. So she is sending Doofus to get a new filter. thanks again!
Holy crap !!!!! It worked !!!! Clogged fiter,,,,,flicked that darn probe ,,,,,( i did not have meter to see if fixed it ) and .....damn it works.......thank you , thank you , thank you !!!!
ps how did you know to flick that probe ! brilliant !!!!!
His wife told him to flick the probe 😀
Thank you for sharing this information. It was very helpful. My heater is working and blowing out hot air again. i checked the filter and that was all it needed. THANK YOU
Exactly the problem I had. Didn't think logically the filter in the home could impact furnace operation but it did. Thank you much, from another doofus. 😃
Zach Denton...same here... since this video it started short cycling again due to the filter. Put a new one in and it's fine. So I guess it's one filter per 1.5 months for me..
Zach Denton hey one question ? where is the filter?
IT WAS THE FILTER!! I'm such a doofus. If you don't take care of that little bugger your whole house will be cold. We are warming again. Thank God and the internet!
Zach Denton g
@@juanrivera3842 big grill or somewhere in the furnace. I have found some in the ductwork in the attic.
Awesome video, exactly what was wrong with our heater and my husband was able to fix it on his own.
Backside of a screwdriver bang on the panel a few times check continuity again, if it is now closed you don't have to remove it, at least for now.... Great tip thanks!
Very true! Might work and be easier haha!
Usually if you have to tap it to free it up ,it’s damaged and will stick open again. Replace it.
@@rjuarez4913 possibly...Mine has been fine ever since this video 3-4 years ago.
@@rjuarez4913 It's been a month and still working. What you suggest is probably the best approach but it's cold and working for now.
Got my furnace fixed after I watched this video... thank you so much👍😁
this is the first time any youtuber responded to me omg thx this is awesome
Died laughing at the end! From one doofus to another doofus, thank you!
I had the exact same problem for the exactly same reason and i fixed it with the help of this and few other video .... thank you for sharing the video :) You made my day :)
THANK YOU! This video helped to get my RUUD furnace up & running again!!
This works!!!! stupid ME....i didn't change my filter!!!! Thank you so much!!!!!!!!
Thank you for the knowledge, success for "Steve " ... Pekalongan, Central Java, Indonesia attended
Good idea to have spare flame sensor, spark ignitor, and filters at all times. I even have some extra limit switches. Never want to wait until a freezing day to need these parts.
Thanks one thing more can you please tell me what is that big bang when the blower end or stopping it’s annoying to hear thanks again hope you’ll help me (or a video)
Thank Yu so much! Had this problem today and Your video worked like a charm!!!
282 A/C Tech's hate this guy LMAO Good job
This totally did the trick for me. Thank you!
You are a GOD, I have a litter of puppies and they were frezzzzzing. Thanks so much. Oh ya it was free I love free.
Thank you Steve, you fixed my furnace! ;)
Totally works!!!
Thanks for the help, Steve! Fixed my High Temp Limit switch problem.
Awesome! This totally saved me tonight!
Good shit man! Thanks for the help. And thanks for saving me a couple hundred bucks!👍🏽
Thanks for the advice! God bless you!
its called a limit switch
Steve...
My Goodman motor tries to start but doesn't. Red light is steady on, which means system is ok. I've taken out and cleaned the ignitors on both sides of the burners. It worked great for a day after I did that, but it won't start now. It had been raining last night. Can moisture somewhere be the issue? Exhaust pvp pipe to outside of house has wire mesh so I don't think anything has been able to crawl in the pipe. Also replaced both filters.
thanks so much fore your video, that was my problem, I just follow Your instructions and IT WORK THANKS !!!!!!!
Ramon Patino Glad to help! Mine is still going strong without replacing that part. Hope yours does too! Remember your filter though :)
yep. the filter was so bad,,,, I it was like a dirty rock .;)
My 5 year old Bryant furnace recently started short cycling and not getting up to temperature even with a new filter, but if the filter is removed it works fine. I suspect the limit switch, it's L170-20F. Does this sound like the problem and does the replacement have to be the same specs or how close does it have to be and would there be an advantage to using one with slightly different specs? Any help is appreciated - Thanks.
I got a Rheem code 46 "Low Pressure Switch Open - Inducer on Low" and the inducer kicks on and off non-stop. Is this a pressure switch issue or inducer motor? Sometimes it does go ahead and fire up, but gets caught at some point during the day clicking on and off.
Thanks for posting this vid. It work now
Saved my ass! Thank you!
haha mine too...
You are definitely a DIY guy
Straightoutofchiraq ...I'm an engineer, it's a disorder that causes DIY to happen. I was home sick when I did this lol.
hahaha this dude again, he seems to like pissing on folks helping out other folks in saving some $$$$$$
by the way, not all limit switches are made the same, mine are normally closed and fail open, obviously check your schematics to verify which is the case for your furnace
very helpful video. Thanks man
Hi Steve, I’m having the same problem for the first time. Usually, I had problems with the “flame sensor”. I was wondering if you had symptoms of the furnace being great at one interval, it will go perfectly to temp, then the next time it turned on, the burners didn’t turn on and it was blowing cold air ? I just ordered the “limit switch” for mine because of great videos like yours, but no one talks about the early symptoms of a failing “limit switch”. I have heard, that if a new limit switch or a new filter doesn’t do the trick, then the A-coil above the furnace, in the plenum can be clogged, causing overheating issues, and a service person will need to be called. Please let me know if you had any symptoms before your limit switch went for a poop. Thank you
Ironically we moved and I'm having nearly the exact same issue! The jury is still out on what is wrong. Mine might be fine for a day or two, then it will stop lighting and the blower just stays on. I polished the flame sensor and it worked fine for a day and stopped again. I bent the sensor more towards the flame and it worked for 5 days while I bought a new flame sensor. The new flame sensor did NOT fix it, and it will still fire normally at times. The A- coil is not that hard to clean. However it's pretty rare that it would get dirty enough to overheat the furnace. When the AC runs, the coil is naturally cleaned by condensation which drains out. Unless the drain is clogged or you have incredibly hairy pets it should be fine. You could take the cover off and look! It's not hard to look, harder to clean though haha. I'm still working on mine...one thing to try is wiggle the wires on the control board. I think I might have a loose connection or a board going bad. Looks like they're $50 online but I know they'd charge like $700-1000 to do it for me....UGH.
Right now mine will run perfectly fine, but at times it will but the gas, attempt to reignite but it won't feed any gas. The igniter glows but no dice. My next check is that I get 24v to the gas valve when it calls for heat...but I'm out of town right now haha. Last time it would not fire at all, when I wiggled some wires on the control board it fired right up....I'll update if I figure it out lol. Meanwhile, a flame sensor and limit switch are easy replacements.
Just an FYI - my furnace randomly works heat to set temp. Swapped the easy flame sensor, no dice. It ended up being a bad main board. The furnace would turn on just like normal, but the gas wouldn't fire. I even changed the gas valve. Turns out the main board wasn't giving the valve good voltage consistently. Been perfect ever since!
I can’t believe it works thanks thanks
Precise, I saved some $$
Another doofus here. I don't see the square thinggy with the bi-metal thinggy in my Lennox. I've go a nearly identical setup as shown here. The round thinggy with the two wires and the yellow dot is there in mine. Everything else is the same except the thing that we're supposed to check. So I shut the whole thing down for a few hours, changed the filter and tried again. It worked.
Bless you Steve.
Haha funny thing is I did this while home sick :)
I just tapped the fuck out of mine!. Fixed! On my way to the store to get a filter.
I would have liked a more direct approach, starting with the idea that someone messing with this knows how to read resistance with a meter. So, more quickly, am I looking for zero ohms, or open? Then, having read what it shouldn't be, maybe tap or flick to see if it comes free (things now work). in that case, get a new sensor.
thanks. a million big help
I have a Rheem Criterion that started blowing cold air. I noticed the igniter stopped working and no gas coming out when blower kicked on. The air filter (kitchen ceiling intake) was dirty so I replaced. Also replaced igniter, limit switch, and pressure switch. I cleaned the flame sensor and checked condensate pan…no water.
Also troubleshot the circuit board, appears good.
What am I missing?
1) the draft fan should come on
2) a click occurs opening gas valve (hear it?)
3) ignitor lights gas
4) big fan turns on
You can check if the gas valve is getting any voltage by removing the wires and monitoring them during startup routine. My "new" house has a 16yo unit. No gas was coming out. It ended up the main board was sending *some* voltage but couldn't keep the valve working. I replaced the main board and it's been great ever since.
thank's for sharing steve!!!
Yeah!!! You got another fan 😉👍💪
Made me look like the hero at mY new roomates today
I had the same problem years ago but it was not a dirty filter.
On every unit built after the dinosaur age (heehee) they have a sensor called the "flame sensor' that monitors the flame being burned to heat the home. These newer machines will run the furnace fan constantly if there is no flame to help the occupants realize something is very wrong because it will be very cold in the house.
The guy in this video said he cleaned his flame sensor but did not check to see if that fixed it. He should have. He did several things and then stated that the filter was the culprit. That, is VERY bad troubleshooting. Examples: Change the filter - see if it works.....if not....Clean the flame sensor - see if it works...if it does....then stop messing with it! 20 minutes work.....tops!
My flame sensor had dropped from its normal position. By this I mean, it is mounted close to the flame and the metal piece (sensor) that was supposed to be in the actual flame had come loose and fallen. It did not come apart, just fell from the correct position. Example: normal position should be 9 pm or 270 degrees. Mine had fallen out (gravity) of the flame to the 6 pm or 180 degree position.
I hope that I have made sense to some of you DIYers out there.
So, it cost me $16.00 for a new sensor from a local furnace shop. I am very lucky they had one in stock because I live at 6,000 feet and it was January when it went bad. It was only 10 degrees outside at the time. Only 56 degrees in the house.
On another note and I see that someone posting a reply to this video commented - do not use too tight, restrictive, of a filter in your furnace. I use a MERV7 Pleated from Menard's and it lasts 3 months costing only less than $3.00 a pop (filter). A restrictive filter such as a MERV12 can significantly reduce air flow especially if you are a smoker because it can clog in as little time as 1 week after changing from all that smoke.
Also, forced air furnaces need proper circulation in order to maximize efficiency. Close the doors to all rooms and make sure there is a minimum of a 1 inch gap at the bottom of the door to allow air to return to the furnace. A ceiling fan in the winter mode, fan blowing up, at low setting helps during excessively cold days.
The absolute easiest part of maintaining the furnace is to CHANGE THE FILTER regularly. Daily, weekly, monthly, every 3 months, every 6 months(??) it depends on the unit doing the service to your needs. It's up to you...unless.....you are filthy stinkin' rich and can't do anything for yourself.
I am a master technician and hope that what I have shared is helpful
I did check each thing to see if it fixed the issue, I just did not include it in the video.
Steve,
If you would have then people would not be so confused such as me....a master technician. You did not specifically state that the dirty filter fixed the issue and if you did it was not CONSPICUOUS!
Why did you fire the furnace without a filter? The force of the air will throw dirt throughout your house.
I think you would be shocked if you completed a degree at a credible HVAC school and watched this video again.
@@mdv5845 ... With the flame sensor, I said I cleaned it and it "didn't do anything"...in other words, it didnt fix it. You are right, starting the blower without a filter is bad. But for a short demonstration video it is not the end of the world. I shot this on a sick day, home from work feeling like garbage. Sure, it could be better. I have a degree in mechanical engineering. While I'm not am HVAC tech, I do understand the principles behind the functions of HVAC systems. Replacing the dirty filter did NOT fix the issue, it caused the issue with the limit sensor. Thus I tell people to change their filter to keep this from happening.
Can you tell me which model is your furnace it's the same model as mine, can you help me, the board sensor is giving 57 error code which is a pressure switch open, but I don't know where to locate that from my furnace and how to fix it?
This was very helpful! thanks :)
What brand furnace is that? Where can I get parts for that same brand?
Yess thank you I needed this
"THANK YOU!!!" My home is warm again 😘
thanks,big help
I have a question- my capacitor went out and I had an ac company come fix it. While there he worked on the capacitor without turning off my electricity at the fuse panel. Three big flashes of light came from the inside unit, the lights flickered and the flashes of light came out again, then he asked where the fuse box was located. 20 minutes later all of my electricity blew out and the fuse box started smoking. I had to call an electrician fix the wires. The ac company said they never turn off the fuse box power bc there's a shutoff at the ac- which I cannot find. He then stated to basically prove they caused it. Three weeks prior they were out to fix the hot water heater which I'm guessing he would have to shutoff the power and they never mentioned my wires were messed up. And he said it was a good thing his guy was there to stop my house from blowing up. Does this sound correct to you? And can you tell me where the shutoff valve is on a carrier unit? Sorry my story was so long.
Marnie Reynolds...I'm an engineer, so I do know a bit, but I'm not exactly an AC pro. If he was working on the capacitor of the AC unit outside, there is usually a box mounted to the house with a thick cable running to it. If you open the box there is a large fuse you can remove to cut the power to the AC. That is the "switch" he's talking about. I would definitely ask what the electrician thought of the inside panel damage. In general, if the AC guy shorted something out, the outside fuse would theoretically blow before causing damage to the inside panel. I would ask the electrician which wire's were fried inside and how he thinks it happened. It could have just been a bad breaker in your panel.
coming from a certified ac tech myself yes there is a shut off switch on the handlers idk about the whole house blowing up lol smh he just forgot two hit it off the handler breaker switch that is in handeler sometimes !!!!!!! $olved
Steve he never went outside- he was only working at the inside a/c unit which is why I don't believe he shutoff the fuse to the a/c. I know which ones were blown because I still have the whole set of wires which caught fire. He told me I would have to prove not him.
Red Wise inside the house on the a/c unit itself?
Pre switch,or has valve
What about a pool heater ignightor
thx dude you rock by the way i am a kid
I was wondering if you can help me the heater is not turning on. The green light on the control unit board is not turning on.
you lost voltage to the circuit board
you could have blown a fuse on the circuit board
the condensate drain float is tripped
The door switch is faulty
need more info
Dose it matter where the two wires hook to the switch?
I'd put it back exactly how it was. I thought the plugs might have been different size to prevent mis wiring but I don't remember.
thank you so much for saving me some 💰 works find now
For me the reading across switches shows zero. The fan runs as well. The heating light turns on but does not start burning then the light goes off, then the heating light comes back again and this keeps repeating but no heat. Please help
Read your codes from the circuit board lite or lites
is it the filter inside the make up air register? and what do you mean by "flicking" the probe?
David I've heard of filters in return air registers as well. Any filter that is clogged will reduce the air flow and could cause this problem. Also by "flick" I mean use your fingers and give it a good tap, or thump once or twice.
Thanks Steve.
Nice !
Bingo Boom Chocolaka! It was FILTER.
And also you're going to have to replace the flame sensor every year that's not going to work properly every year
It wasn't the flame sensor. It was a stuck main limit switch. Been working perfectly since the video, thankfully.
It's not called a flame detector it's called a flame sensor
thanks
what will explode
temp will not go no hi then 73 degrees in the house. I did replace the blower fan. I need to test this out. No code for mine limited switch
You might just need a new flame sensor...if it turns on normal for a little while and doesn't detect the flame, it will shut off.
Stephen Horn I replaced that. in put a new blower motor in. temp in house not going up.
Turn up your thermostadt
repace what dont get it cna you tke it off
maby the motor isnt working or the lack of air flow
Look like Coleman furnace
Don't buy a pleated filter they restrict airflow wayyyyyyyyyyy too much. If you want a good filter don't be cheap and get media filters, if not possible buy the cheapest 1 inch filters you can buy
what mettalic peice in the very end
Darren Lam you have to take the limit switch out to see it. On the video it's the sensor on the upper left with two wires going to it. Your model may be different.
can you tell me what will make the thing turn on fire that is what i get confused
mine is a goodman furnace
Mine turns on. But then turns off. Taken filter out switched the breakers. I'm going nuts over this
Sir Murdock by"turned on" do you have flame? Short flame time could be the flame sensor. It thinks it's not lit and shuts off.
No flame at all. I can here the like power or whatever turn on but that it. Maybe a minute then off
Sir Murdock any codes? This video helps if you have a "main limit" code. I'd start at the top...Change filter, clean flame sensor, then limit switch (this video). Codes will be your biggest help.
Sequence of operation on a call for heat
Thermostat on
Inducer motor energized
Pressure switch closes
Hot surface igniter on
Gas valve opens
Flame sensor senses flame
Blower motor energized
Sequence of events is: your inducer fan would come on, then if the pressure switch proves the inducer fan is blowing, then the igniter would light, the gas would ignite , then go off. At that point the flame sensor would probably be the culprit, but I’m sure yours wasn’t lighting, so I wouldn’t have suspected the flame sensor. Your bad on sequence of events troubleshooting!
The system first looks at the rollout and overheat sensor (the one he had an issue with) if all are shorted then the inducer fan will come on.
it does nothing buzz
I have a Trane XB Propane Furnace (2009) that will not light unless I tap on the air intake tube. I cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool. I've checked the pressure switch with your "soda straw" method, and I hear the 2 clicks. However, I suppose the switch could still be the problem. The inducer fan blows air, The ignitor glows, but the gas doesn't ignite. I don't have professional HVAC test tools, so I'm hoping I can fix this by simply replacing the pressure switch or ignitor. Here is a video I made of the issue: ruclips.net/video/QLoN2bT9MJE/видео.html
Gas appliances are very serious business, may save a few bucks , but cam have serious consequences.
my Reem Classic clicks multiple times and will not ignite. any sugestions?
Tim Rainey ... it kind of depends what's clicking. If it's a newer furnace and the igniter is clicking but didn't light, I would guess it's not getting fuel to light. Might be a bad gas valve. It could just be a thermocouple as well. Ignition issues are more complex, and if you DIY you might be wasting cash guessing the problem. Might just want to make the dreaded call...
my switch is good. I'm lost damn
no helpful