CHECK THIS ASWEL!!! for you guys looking through comments on other causes... My Goodman furnace had a vacuum line that had gotten some water in it. It goes from the exhaust fan, to a vacuum switch that gives power to the gas valve. If the exhaust fan turns on first to make sure it’s going work properly before the furnace ignites. If this hose is kinked, cut or has water or debris in it, it won’t let the gas valve open. Free and easy to check..
Two things, 1). check on your "High Temp Switch", has to be normally close/continually. If not, reset it. it had small push button or flat/curve shape. 2). check your gas valve feeding power has to be 24-28 vac after you hear click from the control board. Trust me.
Does the limit switch have polarity? I replaced the main limit switch without taking a photo or making a note so now I don’t know which wire goes to which terminal on the switch. Can you help, please? Thank you.
You have a gas supply issue, the gas valve has to be checked to see if its getting 24volts and if the solenoid is pulling in(0.2 amps). There are excellent gas valve checks on RUclips.
same thing happened to me today heat was not working found water all over the place from the humidifier ,because the unit still thought it was on. First thing I did was cleaned the flame sensor which was real dirty with carbon ,did this with water and fine sandpaper,like new. The unit still did not work the igniter was glowing but the flame never came on after 3 times it shut down,came down later with a blow dryer for 5 min ,and tried again ,I also flipped the switch on the gas valve on and off 3 times ,taped up the door switch so I can observe and prayed after the igniter kicked after about 20 sec .I heard a click and the heat came on withing 2 min or so the blower kicked in and all is good now,another thing that may have caused this is air filter which was soaked earlier. I ruled out the air blower in the beginning by putting the AC on ,if your blower ever goes its easy to test by spinning the inside of the drum when you hear humming after the flame is burning about 2 min,I fixed this once with a 11 dollar capacitor any time something goes with one of these things buy 2 have keep a spare,or call a hvac guy and pay 300-400 bucks for a 10 part ,and thats if they dont bang you for a drum that will cost 600-1000 depending who is doing it. Always do the easiet thing risk 10 bucks to save a grand
Turned out the cause was a faulty earthquake valve. I live in California and the earthquake valve on my side of the meter had partially tripped, restricting but not stopping the flow of gas. I had PG&E come out and take a look. After they tested pressure at the meter (which turned out fine) they reset the earthquake valve and everything works again.
Having the same issue... I took the leads off of the gas valve and hooked up my meter and was getting 25volts after the click. So I replaced the gas valve thinking it was bad. Well I just learned that I need to leave the wired hooked up to the gas valve and test for voltage that was. And what do ya know? Presto 0 voltage. Guy at the parts house said that is called "phantom voltage" so now I replaced the board and BAM! got gas again. And at that I am getting 28volts to my gas valve. It seemed a little off when I was only getting 25.
I had the exact same problem. I killed the power to the unit then flicked the gas valve switch on and off five times while pushing down on the switch. My gas came back on. I guess the gas valve switch wasn't making contact inside? IDK but it worked. I hope it continues so I won't have to pay a professional. I just paid a mechanic $1,400 to install a blend door actuator in my F-150 (it's the model that requires you to remove the entire dashboard).
Same thing was happening to me. Looked at everything and couldnt figure it out, then rememered that we got a new long hair cat and checked the air filter to see if it clogged up faster than usual...sure enough, the furnace wasn't getting enough air flow so it told itself not to turn on, replaced and fixed
OK I'm not a repairman, came here looking for answers. Code on my furnace was check ground wire. I followed wire from gas valve to circuit board unplugged it and blew in it like the old game cartridge some if us did as kids and plugged it back in. Turned power on and it lit up gas came on. Don't know how long this will last, but for now I have heat.
Check to make sure your getting 24 volts to your gas valve. If you are then its probably your gas valve. If your not getting 24 volts then odds are it you circuit board.
Not yet. I talked to a plumber last night and it sounds like it is likely a problem caused by the gas company. I'll call them today and comment back here when the problem is resolved.
My heater is doing the exact thing as yours but I don't have the elusive "EQ" valve here in Wisco. Interesting that your gas water heater was working, and also interesting that even with limited gas supply you were not getting any flame at all here. Does not compute, does not compute.
This is exactly what my heater is doing… I got super excited because I thought the solution was going to be at the end of the video. But again, no answers… Is there someone that can help me with this?
Man, she really got me excited and ready for a good deep dive. Talking about what she’s going to do and all! But then i walked in the room and found her sleep.
Paul, I'll add a link to a photo in the description above. Mine looks just like the one in this photo and is oriented in the same way, just on my side of the gas meter.
My Furnace was working intermittingly, then I checked limit switch and pressure switch for continuity. They were fine. After putting wires back on both--now no power to furnace--the Thermostat won't even light up!
make sure your door switch is either taped or the cover is on... if the door switch is not taped or the door was taken out the furnance would not lit up or work... even in cooling mode
@@bobn8865 I have 28 volts for about 5 seconds then auto shuts off because I assume it doesnt detect a flame. I hear clicking of the relays as well, i was inclined on a faulty gas valve as I see the igniter lit up. The issue is that I never see a flame at all and the light on the board ne er reads "flame" as I assume it is not being reported by the flame sensor.
@@Andy-un2th It was the board, the board switch was probably weak so it was not powering the gas valve. The best way to test it, is to keep it connected and backprobe the power wires and see if you get the voltage. In my case I disconnected it and it made it look like the board was good because I was seeing the 28vac making me think that the board was good but when I plugged it back, it would read 0 volts during the same time frame (about 5 seconds in my case).
@@scientist100 damn that seems strange. I tested the wires coming from the board and it read 27v, but that was disconnected from the board. Ill have look up backprobing. Thanks for the heads up
ALTERNATE SOLUTION: I had the exact same situation, although with a different unit (AS 80 Dual). Everything seemed to be working fine except the unit wasn't getting the gas to light. The electronic pilot light lit up three times and the codes looked fine, until it finished cycling through 3 times, then I got 2 blinking lights. Seemed strange since everything gas powered was working. The hot water heater was good, the gas lighter on our fireplace was heating our firewood, and I checked outside and we don't have a gas shut off safety valve "earthquake thing". My situation made zero sense. Though we did just have those fires? Maybe the filter is clogged and the furnace can't breath? OK, pulled out the filter, fired up the unit - still not working. Then I got to thinking, if the filter is clogged, maybe something else is clogged? And I don't know why, but I banged on the little black pipe that distributes that gas in to the inlets and PRESTO! It fired right up! Wow, how simple?! Though, I think it still has some clogs because if you keep tapping (gently) you can see the flame go from the blue color to orange, which I believe indicates it is burning something other than gas, which is likely the lint/dust that the filter stopped grabbing.. Saved a visit from the HVAC guy! Hope this little trick works for others..
You saved my family a cold ass night. -2 outside right now and everything was working on the furnance except the gas. The light on the board stayed steady and checked the fuse all good. Fresh batteries in the thermostat. I banged on the gas line and it started up next cycle.
I was in a 12 round title fight with my furnace for hours last night and was on the verge of giving up and calling a tech $$$ UNTIL, after searching deep in the annals of RUclips, I came across one sentence that changed everything.. “I banged on the little black pipe that distributes that gas in to the inlets and PRESTO! “ I grabbed my trusty hammer thinking no way. Banged a few good knocks on the black pipe at the burners and sure as hell…BAM! Fired right up. You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you.
Glad it worked. Ultimately I did have to get it repaired. It happened too many times. I forget exactly what was wrong. I think a bad circuit board or something.
I had to replace the igniter, but after I did there was no gas flow any more. I remember I had gas flow earlier it’s just my igniter wasn’t turned on. So it seemed like something small with the gas. So this “banging the black pipe” definitely helped me to get it started again. Works now. Thanks for the advice!
Gene, I'm curious how the earthquake valve was to blame, yet your water heater was still working. Was the earthquake valve only on the furnace? I'm having similar problems, trying to diagnose. Cheers
I just had the same problem. Clean the burners if necessary. Make sure the igniter is properly positioned. If that doesn't work, replacing the gas valve should solve it. Be blessed
I have the same issue, but when I tap/move my gas pipe at coming into my furnace it sometimes kicks in. I'm in Indiana and it sounds like something in my Gas valve is either clicking or not clicking. This isn't the same thing right?
@@MattB90 I am having the same problem. I had a tech come out to take a look at it. after the igniter flame comes on and I hear the click he simply tapped the gas valve to get it working. Apparently the valves have two magnets/opening mechanisms inside that get stuck(especially at low temp) and tapping the valve after hearing the click will trigger the gas valve to open. This actually works if you want to keep opening the cover, waiting for the sequence and then lightly tapping the valve with your hand. However, it becomes a bit of a labor pain because now it appears the valve is closing prematurely during operation which requires me to do this more frequently. I came across this post while researching options and it appears that it's time to replace the gas valve (do it right the first time ? where's the fun it that ). The gas valves are pretty cheap, but I'm having the tech come out and simply replace the valve. It seems like something you could do yourself, but I think i'll have a tech come do it for safety reasons. Speaking of safety, I would caution tapping the valve (i.e., you don't need a hammer... just a light tap with your knuckle ). The Tech explained that newer furnaces have improved safety mechanisms, but there have been cases where the tapping or perhaps someone used a hammer, caused an explosion. I won't contemplate the number of ways an explosion could happen so just consider this a safety first disclaimer.
Mine did the same thing except when a tech was there. I finally open up the furnace and cleaned the thermopile. There's videos explaining the process. No more going in the garage to turn on the heat
Does the limit switch have polarity? I replaced the main limit switch without taking a photo or making a note so now I don’t know which wire goes to which terminal on the switch. Can you help, please? Thank you.
Gas valve is bad.it’s common.replace it ur furnace will be back to the life.i would say hire someone professional.don’t do it yourself these things are not DIY.
This could have been solved by anService Tech with his gas pressure test gauge. Once you see to low of pressure out of valve you move test gauge to inlet and he would have found inlet pressure drop hence furnace is working properly. Homeowners should stay away from Gas appliances. Not trying to be ugly just stating facts.
CHECK THIS ASWEL!!!
for you guys looking through comments on other causes...
My Goodman furnace had a vacuum line that had gotten some water in it. It goes from the exhaust fan, to a vacuum switch that gives power to the gas valve. If the exhaust fan turns on first to make sure it’s going work properly before the furnace ignites. If this hose is kinked, cut or has water or debris in it, it won’t let the gas valve open.
Free and easy to check..
How do I check this
Two things, 1). check on your "High Temp Switch", has to be normally close/continually. If not, reset it. it had small push button or flat/curve shape. 2). check your gas valve feeding power has to be 24-28 vac after you hear click from the control board. Trust me.
I think I have the exact same issue in this video. Is there someone that can help me with this?
@@charizardsquad2333 did you get a solution?
sounds like you knew it was the gas valve gone bad if it didnt get the 24 VAC
That’s make sense.
I just installed a new Godman gas furnace and the gas valve don’t open . Blower starts ,light come on but no gas goes through
Does the limit switch have polarity? I replaced the main limit switch without taking a photo or making a note so now I don’t know which wire goes to which terminal on the switch. Can you help, please? Thank you.
Why have a title with SOLVED in it when the solution hasn't been found?
He put what the solution was in a comment 10 years ago (8 years from when you posted this comment).
You have a gas supply issue, the gas valve has to be checked to see if its getting 24volts and if the solenoid is pulling in(0.2 amps). There are excellent gas valve checks on RUclips.
how do you check the solenoid for 0.2 amps?
What is a good ohms reading on a solenoid?
same thing happened to me today heat was not working found water all over the place from the humidifier ,because the unit still thought it was on. First thing I did was cleaned the flame sensor which was real dirty with carbon ,did this with water and fine sandpaper,like new.
The unit still did not work the igniter was glowing but the flame never came on after 3 times it shut down,came down later with a blow dryer for 5 min ,and tried again ,I also flipped the switch on the gas valve on and off 3 times ,taped up the door switch so I can observe and prayed after the igniter kicked after about 20 sec .I heard a click and the heat came on withing 2 min or so the blower kicked in and all is good now,another thing that may have caused this is air filter which was soaked earlier. I ruled out the air blower in the beginning by putting the AC on ,if your blower ever goes its easy to test by spinning the inside of the drum when you hear humming after the flame is burning about 2 min,I fixed this once with a 11 dollar capacitor any time something goes with one of these things buy 2 have keep a spare,or call a hvac guy and pay 300-400 bucks for a 10 part ,and thats if they dont bang you for a drum that will cost
600-1000 depending who is doing it. Always do the easiet thing risk 10 bucks to save a grand
I was having the same issue. I flicked on and off the gas switch a few times and voila. It did the trick. Must have been stuck. Thanks for the help!
Check to make sure your glow plug is good checking voltage. If good check incoming and outgoing gas pressure with meter it could be a bad gas valve.
I believe it’s a bad gas valve. You can test your gas valve leads for voltage and it should read 24 volts
Turned out the cause was a faulty earthquake valve. I live in California and the earthquake valve on my side of the meter had partially tripped, restricting but not stopping the flow of gas. I had PG&E come out and take a look. After they tested pressure at the meter (which turned out fine) they reset the earthquake valve and everything works again.
And that is why I live in Florida... born here and will stay here forever... lol
You mean Florida that is as hot and humid as the Equator?
Gene Wood where is this earth quake reset. I think exact same thing happened to us.
Long Huynh
Check how to reset
ruclips.net/video/bumZMCXKs2Y/видео.html
Then how was your water heater still functioning?
Having the same issue... I took the leads off of the gas valve and hooked up my meter and was getting 25volts after the click. So I replaced the gas valve thinking it was bad. Well I just learned that I need to leave the wired hooked up to the gas valve and test for voltage that was. And what do ya know? Presto 0 voltage. Guy at the parts house said that is called "phantom voltage" so now I replaced the board and BAM! got gas again. And at that I am getting 28volts to my gas valve. It seemed a little off when I was only getting 25.
I had the exact same problem. I killed the power to the unit then flicked the gas valve switch on and off five times while pushing down on the switch. My gas came back on. I guess the gas valve switch wasn't making contact inside? IDK but it worked. I hope it continues so I won't have to pay a professional. I just paid a mechanic $1,400 to install a blend door actuator in my F-150 (it's the model that requires you to remove the entire dashboard).
Ouch
Same thing was happening to me. Looked at everything and couldnt figure it out, then rememered that we got a new long hair cat and checked the air filter to see if it clogged up faster than usual...sure enough, the furnace wasn't getting enough air flow so it told itself not to turn on, replaced and fixed
@bret pull glad it helped
Your solution of replacing the air filter just solved my problem too. Thanks.
OK I'm not a repairman, came here looking for answers. Code on my furnace was check ground wire. I followed wire from gas valve to circuit board unplugged it and blew in it like the old game cartridge some if us did as kids and plugged it back in. Turned power on and it lit up gas came on. Don't know how long this will last, but for now I have heat.
Why put solved on the thumb nail
Check to make sure your getting 24 volts to your gas valve. If you are then its probably your gas valve. If your not getting 24 volts then odds are it you circuit board.
You say the gas value is on but to me it looks like it's in the off position.
I agree.
Not yet. I talked to a plumber last night and it sounds like it is likely a problem caused by the gas company. I'll call them today and comment back here when the problem is resolved.
If you get 24v to gas valve and it's not opening for gas and you know that you have gas going into it then it faulty valve put a new one
My heater is doing the exact thing as yours but I don't have the elusive "EQ" valve here in Wisco.
Interesting that your gas water heater was working, and also interesting that even with limited gas supply you were not getting any flame at all here. Does not compute, does not compute.
Who says the gas supply was limited?
Gas valve is in off position. Otherwise if the gas valve is the on position then you have a bad valve.
Actually It does seem like it but actually the switch is off
Im wondering why no one sees that the valve is off
This is exactly what my heater is doing… I got super excited because I thought the solution was going to be at the end of the video. But again, no answers… Is there someone that can help me with this?
Roger that? WTF
Yeah. This video squashed my dreams.
Call a licensed contractor or you could cause an explosion from the phase angle shifter.
Man, she really got me excited and ready for a good deep dive. Talking about what she’s going to do and all! But then i walked in the room and found her sleep.
Why it's says solved?????
Archie Arch because he changed the title after he fixed the problem.
Read the video description
Paul, I'll add a link to a photo in the description above. Mine looks just like the one in this photo and is oriented in the same way, just on my side of the gas meter.
Where is the "solved"?
My Furnace was working intermittingly, then I checked limit switch and pressure switch for continuity. They were fine. After putting wires back on both--now no power to furnace--the Thermostat won't even light up!
make sure your door switch is either taped or the cover is on... if the door switch is not taped or the door was taken out the furnance would not lit up or work... even in cooling mode
when you say blower do you mean the inducer motor?
I don't hear the click or gas hissing from the valve
Clean out the port going into the inducer housing. Bet it was plugged up
Not the problem. Check to see if 27 volts at gas valve when igniter is lit. If there is it's a bad gas valve. If not bad controller board.
@@bobn8865 I have 28 volts for about 5 seconds then auto shuts off because I assume it doesnt detect a flame. I hear clicking of the relays as well, i was inclined on a faulty gas valve as I see the igniter lit up. The issue is that I never see a flame at all and the light on the board ne er reads "flame" as I assume it is not being reported by the flame sensor.
@@scientist100 Any luck yet?
@@Andy-un2th It was the board, the board switch was probably weak so it was not powering the gas valve. The best way to test it, is to keep it connected and backprobe the power wires and see if you get the voltage. In my case I disconnected it and it made it look like the board was good because I was seeing the 28vac making me think that the board was good but when I plugged it back, it would read 0 volts during the same time frame (about 5 seconds in my case).
@@scientist100 damn that seems strange. I tested the wires coming from the board and it read 27v, but that was disconnected from the board. Ill have look up backprobing. Thanks for the heads up
ALTERNATE SOLUTION: I had the exact same situation, although with a different unit (AS 80 Dual). Everything seemed to be working fine except the unit wasn't getting the gas to light. The electronic pilot light lit up three times and the codes looked fine, until it finished cycling through 3 times, then I got 2 blinking lights. Seemed strange since everything gas powered was working. The hot water heater was good, the gas lighter on our fireplace was heating our firewood, and I checked outside and we don't have a gas shut off safety valve "earthquake thing".
My situation made zero sense. Though we did just have those fires? Maybe the filter is clogged and the furnace can't breath? OK, pulled out the filter, fired up the unit - still not working.
Then I got to thinking, if the filter is clogged, maybe something else is clogged? And I don't know why, but I banged on the little black pipe that distributes that gas in to the inlets and PRESTO! It fired right up! Wow, how simple?!
Though, I think it still has some clogs because if you keep tapping (gently) you can see the flame go from the blue color to orange, which I believe indicates it is burning something other than gas, which is likely the lint/dust that the filter stopped grabbing..
Saved a visit from the HVAC guy! Hope this little trick works for others..
You saved my family a cold ass night. -2 outside right now and everything was working on the furnance except the gas. The light on the board stayed steady and checked the fuse all good. Fresh batteries in the thermostat. I banged on the gas line and it started up next cycle.
I was in a 12 round title fight with my furnace for hours last night and was on the verge of giving up and calling a tech $$$ UNTIL, after searching deep in the annals of RUclips, I came across one sentence that changed everything.. “I banged on the little black pipe that distributes that gas in to the inlets and PRESTO! “ I grabbed my trusty hammer thinking no way. Banged a few good knocks on the black pipe at the burners and sure as hell…BAM! Fired right up. You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you.
Glad it worked. Ultimately I did have to get it repaired. It happened too many times. I forget exactly what was wrong. I think a bad circuit board or something.
I had to replace the igniter, but after I did there was no gas flow any more. I remember I had gas flow earlier it’s just my igniter wasn’t turned on. So it seemed like something small with the gas.
So this “banging the black pipe” definitely helped me to get it started again. Works now. Thanks for the advice!
Gene, I'm curious how the earthquake valve was to blame, yet your water heater was still working. Was the earthquake valve only on the furnace? I'm having similar problems, trying to diagnose. Cheers
I just had the same problem. Clean the burners if necessary. Make sure the igniter is properly positioned. If that doesn't work, replacing the gas valve should solve it. Be blessed
I have the same issue, but when I tap/move my gas pipe at coming into my furnace it sometimes kicks in. I'm in Indiana and it sounds like something in my Gas valve is either clicking or not clicking. This isn't the same thing right?
i know this is an old post but how did you get this fixed did you have to replace the gas valve?
@@MattB90 I am having the same problem. I had a tech come out to take a look at it. after the igniter flame comes on and I hear the click he simply tapped the gas valve to get it working. Apparently the valves have two magnets/opening mechanisms inside that get stuck(especially at low temp) and tapping the valve after hearing the click will trigger the gas valve to open. This actually works if you want to keep opening the cover, waiting for the sequence and then lightly tapping the valve with your hand. However, it becomes a bit of a labor pain because now it appears the valve is closing prematurely during operation which requires me to do this more frequently. I came across this post while researching options and it appears that it's time to replace the gas valve (do it right the first time ? where's the fun it that ). The gas valves are pretty cheap, but I'm having the tech come out and simply replace the valve. It seems like something you could do yourself, but I think i'll have a tech come do it for safety reasons. Speaking of safety, I would caution tapping the valve (i.e., you don't need a hammer... just a light tap with your knuckle ). The Tech explained that newer furnaces have improved safety mechanisms, but there have been cases where the tapping or perhaps someone used a hammer, caused an explosion. I won't contemplate the number of ways an explosion could happen so just consider this a safety first disclaimer.
Mine did the same thing except when a tech was there. I finally open up the furnace and cleaned the thermopile. There's videos explaining the process. No more going in the garage to turn on the heat
This is exactly what my heater is doing. Can you help me with this?
mine ended up being in thermostat it had dust in it and shorted the 24 volts to gas valve by three volts
Could you elaborate?
Mine is not getting any gas at all n don't know what it is I cleaned the flame sensor
Check if you get 24v to the gas valve. If yes, then your gas valve is bad.
My lennox elite is doing the same, ignitor glows and then shuts off. This just started last night. Any advice gentlemen?
I have the same exact furnace with same problem, did you find out what the issue was?
Does the limit switch have polarity? I replaced the main limit switch without taking a photo or making a note so now I don’t know which wire goes to which terminal on the switch. Can you help, please? Thank you.
Doesn't make a difference.
Hi
Mine is not turning one, after 2 days with out power, we got power back but the heater won't start.can u help plz
check capacitor
Hi I have the exact same problem, did you fix it?
if you look he has the gas valve turned OFF !
WRONG
Mine is exactly the same right now
I got into the same situation yesterday with a carrier furnace,
The culprit ended up being an earthquake valve that was partially restricting the flow of gas.
Mlm
I have same problem anyone know how to fix please
Sounds like defective gas valve
Could show where and how the 'earthquake valve' looks like? Regards,
lol!!!!!! earthquake valve
My problem was the earthquake vavle which you probably don't have in Indiana so I'd say yes, this isn't the same situation that you have.
Hi, I have the exact issue that you are showing in this video. Did you ever find out what the problem was? I’m desperate, please help. Ha ha.
Low Temp switch you may up to 3 an high limit switch they r small an round to plugins
no, there was no gas.
My igniter isn’t lightning up and the gas valve isn’t clicking
OK it look like it was sorry
Is volage goig 2valve r roleout termo open r gas. Valve
pilot is lite but not getting gas to furance
Gas valve is bad.it’s common.replace it ur furnace will be back to the life.i would say hire someone professional.don’t do it yourself these things are not DIY.
This could have been solved by anService Tech with his gas pressure test gauge. Once you see to low of pressure out of valve you move test gauge to inlet and he would have found inlet pressure drop hence furnace is working properly. Homeowners should stay away from Gas appliances. Not trying to be ugly just stating facts.
This is what's happening, this suckers Lost in the Sauce, way beyond the Cost of the Cross!!!
Bad video can not see clear
The culprit ended up being an earthquake valve that was partially restricting the flow of gas.