Let me know if you have any questions by leaving them in the comments section! Yes, I flipped the wrong breaker in the video. Sorry for the mistake but you get the point. Here is a link for the limit switch I used. Primary Limit Switch - amzn.to/2YBShvH
Bro thank you veeery much! I woke up at 2 am and my house super cold and i got my wife and kids! I had to make my furnace work so your video helped me out 100%! The safety switch was my problem! Thank u so much! 💪👏 instead of the paper clip i had my terminal kit so endep up using 2 spade connectors and left it running for 30 min just to get the house warm and now turning it off completely just to go to sleep!
I’m a single mother and this shut down on me overnight. With my daughter in mind, I had to figure something out that wasn’t going to cost so much. Thank you so so much!! I watched this video over and over and followed every step minus the breaker. I’m super happy right now and proud.
Just wanted you to know that your video is still helping people . Its hard to find a good video that explanes things as well as your did for me . I had the same code as seen here and a simple reset was all i needed to fix the problem . Keep up the good videos your doing . They are saving people money and you will reap the rewards of your time . Thank You So Much 👍
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I got my furnace working thanks to your easy steps! It was the turn-on button in front of the furnace. Had to have the front panels on just right to keep it pressed down. I did it. Thanks to you! 🎉❤ You are a lifesaver!
God bless you for this my man, i have been trying everything since a week, changed new flame sensor, changed ignator, unplugged and replugged all wires ( that was hard i had to litterally draw them in a peace of paper), cleaned the burners, oiled the inducer motor....works sporadically after system lock down like 4h, and then returned back to on and off, never thought it was the limit switch, did the paper clip trick, i almost shit my pants and even with main power off i was afraid on being electrocuted or sparks that can go to gaz pipe not that faraway, but holly shit man, it worked at every single attempt, now i am ordering it from Amazone and will certainly not operate furnace with a paperclip to burn the house.GOD BLESS YOU MAN.
this was a great video, it should me what to look for and how to fix it, my problem was it was blowing cold air, i did what the video showed me but still the burners would not come, so i blew air from my mouth toward the heat sensor and a lot of dust came off then it started glowing red, then the burners lite and the furnace was heating the house again, this also showed me that the furnace had not been serviced in some time, i had just recently purchased the house and it was working at the time. Now i can just call in a tech to service the unit and clean everything. before this house i had always had my furnace serviced every year and that will be the same with this one. In the long run it will avoid you having to pay a premium price to have them come out on a overtime call.
Like one of your other commentators I am also aa single mom and of course my furnace went out in the middle of the night. I was able to fix it with these instructions. I need to change the filter more frequently going forward. Thank you!
I want to Thank you for your video your a life saver I woke up this morning furnace blowing cold air temp outside 8, I followed your video and now as I speak my home is warming back up👍 thank you again keep up the Great work Have a safe and Blessed 2021...
I would like to THANK YOU so much for your easy way of explaining this to us. It worked perfectly. After the family Christmas gathering, we came home on Christmas day to a cold house. Great I thought. But thank goodness it was the first thing, you mentioned on your video, the corrosion on the rod. I had visions of the callout and them taking their sweet time in diagnosing the problem and costing me about 500.00 again. It's a Very Merry Christmas after all 😊 Thanks again you made my day!!
This video helped. @2:50 My inductor blower tube was clogged. I blow in the tube and no air was flowing throw. I took a piece of wire to clean out. It cleared. Then i put everything back together and the ignitor started glowing again and ignited. Wow. Thanks!
Great video. Ours does all this but then the burners goes out like the gas gets shut off. Blower will keep running. It was intermittent last year but this year it won't even stay running. Our thermostat is also very old.
THANK YOU ....excellent step by step explanation and I was able to get my furnace running FYI...had three PSEG technicians at different occasions...furnace will work for two or three days and off it goes
Thank you so much. I tried a few other things before I found your video. Nothing worked, all I needed to do was clean my sensor you talked about and I have heat again. Super easy fix thanks so much....
This video is great..! I had the same problem and I straight went to clean the flame sensor which did not help. Then I came across this video which helped me to check if the valve (orange tube part in the video)is blocked and IT WAS....in my case. Just cleaned it with paper clip and the system now runs like champ. Many thanks to you because you saved me lot of trouble and money...!
Omg!!! The best life saving video ever❤️❤️❤️❤️ 1st thing make sure vents are clean, 2nd if the heat still doesn't cut on, switch the gas fuse for the heat and BOOM, pilot cuts on and it's warm again.
Thank you so much! Helped me big time. I did everything you said to do in the video plus I also removed the limit switch and tapped on it a few times with the end of my screw driver (to make sure it was closed?). Not sure which step fixed my issue but now my heater works! Thanks again
Very helpful at my daughters today. Kudos to you sir. Probably would’ve waited a month on the landlords “handyman” followed by a few more days for an hvac company after un-handyman failed to diagnose or remedy. Big ups to you guys. Subbed.
Very clear presentation of the steps in troubleshooting furnace blowing cold air instead of warm/hot air! I simply love it because I was able it fix my own furnace by simply following his lead!
Video is very helpful. Replaced flame sensor. Furnace is working now but sometimes it stops with rapid red code. When I restarted it works again for a while but will stop working with rapid red again.
A little knowledge can be dangerous. If you do a power down reset at the breaker panel, be very aware that power is available in the furnace. Its always better to check once too many than once too few. At the least you might cause more system damage than at the start, at the worst you or a loved one can be killed. Electricity is intolerant of mistakes.
Dude i tried everything! Even considered and thinking it might be the rollout switch. Im done for today but as soon as im out of work tomorrow im try your method with the paperclip. I have the same system and the same light pattern going on. I really hope this works. I will update tomorrow if this works.
@ so update i know its almost 2 weeks but your paperclip method worked. Turns out it was the high limit switch it was done for no juice left in it. I was able to replace and voila we got heat!
I had the same problem with my furnace and I found this very well explained video and l was able to find the problem to my furnace thank you for this very helpful video. money $$$$ saver.
I'm getting the Roll Out switch code blinking. So this looks like it maybe the same issue as yours. Had not thought to close the circuit to test. Good idea. Will try that . Thanks.
Roll out switches are different then the high limit. They are usually one time, or resettable switches. they are safety switches in the event of flame rollout, the most common cause of flame rollout is 1) lack of combustion air to mix with the gas, 2) less often but possible, cracked heat exchanger. If you are getting a code for rollout switch call a professional.
Thanks for the video! My Amana 80 SSE is blowing cold air. The inducer and blower motor come on, but nothing else happens. After a few seconds, the inducer turns off and the blower runs continuously. The control board is blinking 4 times indicating an open primary/secondary limit switch. At first, I jumped the wires for the primary (before I realized my unit actually did have a secondary limit switch with a manual reset). No joy. After I traced the wires from the primary, I found the secondary and jumped those wires (after reconnecting the wires for the primary). Same results and 4 flashes. I suppose that both switches could be open and since I was only testing one at a time it still wouldn't work, but that would suggest that both switches failed at exactly the same time and I think that is unlikely. I haven't checked the tube to the pressure switch (mainly because there's a code - 3 blinks - for that). I don't see the igniter glowing because I think I have to remove the cover that the flame sensor is attached to. If the flame sensor is dirty, could that still be the cause of the problem and make the unit report that the limit switch(es) are open? It seems like that error code is a catch-all and that there could be many culprits. Any suggestions?
I am so happy that I found your video. I was searching for Lennox furnace/system but everything that came up looked different or was a different brand too. Just when I was ready to give up, your video started playing. I have that exact system and it just stopped heating. I can hear it starting as it usually does but after 2-3min it shuts off. No heat comes out of the vents. If I turn Fan to On the cold air starts coming out, otherwise no air at all. I hope it's the first two things you showed here and that I'll be able to fix it myself. On Lennox system it seems much easier to access some of these places than on other systems I saw on here. Thank you so much for making and sharing this video!
Bambina336 I’m glad you found it too. This one was very easy to work on. The one in my house is much more difficult. Let me know if it works for you or not.
Yes, I'll definitely report back once I check it tomorrow. But just to be sure I understood correctly - I need to turn power off at the system before checking on first two things or is that not necessary if my system too has that switch in a corner?
Unfortunately, cleaning the heat sensor didn't help. I did not remove that little red tube because mine is so rigid that it looks like it will break if I try to move it. I think I'll have to call someone in to check it out.
i have a York Diamond 80 Furnace. And twice now over the years it has shown 4 Flashing lights with is the standard 5 flash code for: Dirty filter, improperly sized duct system, incorrect blower speed setting, incorrect firing rate or faulty blower motor. HOWEVER each time for me it's truly been-->The Ignitor!!! 4 years ago 4 flashes, Changed Ignitor..works! Just today, same thing! Each time both in the past, I would change the High Limit switch and nothing but cold air. The Ignitor would NEVER glow. Then for the hell of it I change the ignitor and BAM...it glowed red, ignition! Each time advise on phone from various support, they always "respected" the listings on the door about limit switches, filter, blower perhaps to slow, bad circuit board...and concentrated their efforts there! I've kept the OLD ignitors (for some reason) and decided to OHM test them. The 1st ignitor that failed 4 years ago has 40 ohms reading. The one just today has 85 ohms reading. The brand new one that is working now...tested it right out of the box has 60 ohms reading! The range according to most techs, manuals say ignitor should be between 30 and 90 ohms. In your experiences, can a "good" circuit board produce incorrect codes? According to the York Manual on Page 7 there is only ONE code relating to the ignitor and that is "7" flashes --> Flame Could Not Be Established! I suppose that's why all the techs disregarded any suggestion of changing the ignitor because code was 4 flashes! On the other hand, boards and codes can only do what designer instruct them to do. Or perhaps a revise manual should state ignitor as another check! I ordered and had a new high limit switch available. But after I had BY-Passed the High Limit swith and the ignitor failed to glow, I got suspicious. The inducer appears strong, no clogs/filter issues, nothing duct-wise changed...so it seemed Spock) that the next stage after inducer/blower was the ignitor. So far that is the ONLY part of my York 80 that I've had to change out in 20 years! It's also one of the cheapest parts on the list of repairs too! thankful about that.
@@TightWadDIY you bet!!! I think its so important for women to know these things. We probably spend more $$$ than most, because we panic, dont know, or we get screwed over by repairmen!
thanks so much I was panic my house start getting colder I live in Minnesota you know how is it up here. hey but I just cleaned the burner sensor is running and warm but I still have red & green light flashlight you think I should change the sensor you did on video?
@@TightWadDIY yes you right is was burner sensor everything work perfect now . but thanks for sharing that video im new home owner i don't have to much experience . good video 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Hello GREAT video. I was able to jump the one of the two switches that are sitting on top of the frame above the burners and found one that was defective. Your video was instrumental in suggesting I JUMP the switch. Are these the FLAME ROLLOUT SWITCHES? It's not clear on my manual. Thanks.
Yes those are the rollout switches. They are not automatic reset and there should be a small button in the middle that you press to reset it. But sometimes switches just get stuck and will not reset. There is also the question of why it tripped in the first place. If it wont reset like its supposed to it may just be that it tripped unnecessarily. But there might be another issue as well. Make sure the flames are not actually rolling back before you bypass the safety feature for that.
@@Redtooth75 Yep, thank you for your response. i did additional research and indeed there is a heat/flame rollback. So the furnace is OFF and the technician is coming out to our house to give us a replacement quote. I’m pretty sure it’s a bad heat exchanger. Also, the furnace is 27 years old, soooooo, we are due. Thanks again.
I am a multi licensed, well vetted HVAC/R Technician and Teacher....and there are some things I agree with you said, but more things I whole heatedly disagree with. For starters.....never ever never ever use a paper clip to jump an electrical circuit. This is a safety issue, it can cause a short, and it is not a common field practice PERIOD! Use alligator clips, a jumper wire, or just cut and splice the wires together Next, Safety Switches are not pet goldfish, they just don't die/fail. They fail from opening and closing over time, or being exposed to extreme conditions. Anytime you condemn a SAFETY SWITCH, you MUST find out why it failed. Air flow is most likely your biggest culprit. After you jump the switch out, check the amp draw on the blower motors, draft and indoor, check your filter (you did mention this, kudos) and take a Delta T (temp rise across the furnace) and confirm your air flow is adequate and make corrections as needed. May not be a bad idea to check gas pressure either....something overheated and opened that switch. The igniter is not a switch, its a load. Your turned off 29 not 27 in your panel
Omg you literally read my mind. I strongly suggest he stops giving people information. I get it he may be helping so e people. But I can't stress enough that it is so important to have a licensed qualified technician look at your furnace or ac.
Excellent video and helped me to find the same issue on my York G8C series. Thank you! I would like to add that on my case I noticed that red led was flashing 4 times inside the furnace
I checked the continuity on the limit switch and it's good. I was told the inducer turns on first then the gas valve then the igniter but I hold the door switch but nothing turns on but the blower
Thank you so much for the video!!!!. I cleaned the sensor then I unplugged the limit switch and try the paperclip but didn't work. When I plugged the cables back started to run again. 👍
@@OGHVAC The wires are connected to switch. But they are cut coming out of the switch, so where do the wires need to be connected to? Thank you hope it makes sense.
Now my problem with my lennox furnace is slow alternating lights which is the watch gaurd with 3 potential issues. I cleaned my igniter and sensor both that sit in front of burners and nothing. You have any ideas? I come to your channel because you previously helped me with the high limit switch.
Hello, can you tell me about watchguard, I have a lennox furnace and it keeps saying watchguard mode, valve opens up, looks like everything is working, no flame
Hello, I already tried what you mentioned and I put the paperclip on it and it still doesn't turn on. Do you think it's the ignition sensor? It doesn't turn red when the blower starts... Does the valve also need to be on ? Or off?
@@TightWadDIY For real though most maintenance people are crooks. Awhile back my buddy had furnace issues, same issue as this, the guy tried charging him several hundred just for the assessment which took 2 minutes and told him what the repair would cost which was several hundred more on top of that. My friend just thanked him for telling him what's wrong, and said no thanks, that he'd be repairing it himself because that charge was insane. Flat out refused to pay for the assessment and told the man to leave. Most repairmen these days will take advantage of people because they don't know any better or have any mechanical skills whatsoever. Luckily my friend, although not knowing how to diagnose the issue, did know that parts and labor were nowhere near what they should have been. You've got to be a real POS to try and con a war veteran who's disabled and unable to work.
Yoyosten99 It is sad that some repair companies are crooked. I believe that most aren’t and that’s why you should always use referrals. I believe $150-$200 total is reasonable for this type of diagnosis and repair since you have to compensate them for their knowledge and time.
So, you gave me some things to check out - thank you for that. Unfortunately, still blowing cold air. Wiped off sensor with soft cloth (looks like it has been well - used), vacuum hoses checked for clear Clicks are all going off at the right times, but igniter isn't heating up. Could it just be a bad igniter? Furnace was working fine last week, but just quit a few days ago. Luckily, we have a gas fireplace that works great.
@@TightWadDIY on the main board, there are 3 lights in a row - amber/green/green stacked vertically. The amber was off and the two greens were steadUnited. I was unable to locate a code key. It is an "ACI Answer 80" Unit.
Thank you this is a great video. Needed to know if it was a Normally open or normally closed switch. I got to the right part by the wiring diagram and you took me the rest of the way!!! I just love the fact that everything I learned in automotive school works all over the house. Thanks again
Any idea if concentric furnace vents go bad inside or need replacing? I replaced my inducer blow motor assembly bc my furnace wasn’t running and the motor was hot and opened it up inside and had broke fan teeth. One the new one was installed furnace kicked on no problem. Now when it falls before the set temperature and doesn’t to turn on it cycles inducer motor starts but blower does not kick on, and can hear the pvc pipe right where the exhaust and intake connect into the concentric vent tubing like clicking. If I reset the system and turn the temperature back up on the Nest it turns on ran for 15min and shut off again. Air filters are pretty new and same as always used, flame sensor is clean. Can’t figure it out
As a 33 year HVAC tech, I am pretty confident saying that filter looks to be a washable electro static filter. If it is then most likely the furnace is always running at the high end of the temp rise. And the limit switch probably tripped and reset hundreds of times and then failed, when it should in theory never trip, high limit switches are extremely reliable when operating in proper temp range. If you take good entering and leaving temp readings near the furnace you can determine if the furnace is operating in range, preferably near the middle. It requires a magnahelic or manometer and static pressure tips, but taking static pressure readings and comparing the pressure drop to the manufacturers fan curve is one of the best ways to know if the airflow is correct. Sadly many units have undersized duct work that already pushes static high and thus reduces airflow, add in a restrictive filter and often airflow reduces to unacceptable levels. And electrostatic filters are the worst of the worst when it comes to that, next worse is 3M filtreete brand filters. Both often have pressure drops across a clean filter at half or more of what the blower can handle. In cooling it can cause the evap coil to freeze, and in heating it can cause gas furnaces to run above max temp rise.
@@TightWadDIY I recommend the best filter that doesn't impact proper CFM delivery. So unless you have some data, there is no recommendation beyond standard fiberglass filters. You have to know if the system is within proper CFM with no filter in place, if its not than any filter reduces CFM. if it is delivering proper CFM, you need to know what the static pressure it is working at, then it can be determined how much pressure drop can be allotted to the filter. A filter that meets requirements can then be selected.
Thanks for the videos. Question: we recently had central air installed. Now the problem is that refrigeration coil that was installed is now blocking the warm air from blowing out fully. It just trickles out vents. Is there a way to temporarily remove it during the cold season? Thanks, Jim
JHenzly I am not an HVAC tech so I can’t give you advice on that situation. If you recently had it installed, I suggest asking your installer since they would be familiar with your particular system set up.
I have a Rheem Criterion that started blowing cold air. I noticed the igniter stopped working and no gas coming out when blower kicked on. The air filter (kitchen ceiling intake) was dirty so I replaced. Also replaced igniter, limit switch, and pressure switch. I cleaned the flame sensor and checked condensate pan…no water. Also troubleshot the circuit board, appears good. What am I missing?
Does the board give any diagnostic codes? From what it sounds like it could be a limit or safety switch that is open. If one of them is open the board sets the blower to on and shuts the burner off. But a full troubleshoot starting from the beginningwould be to: Make sure the board is getting a call for heat. Make sure the inducer motor is running. Make sure the pressure switches are operating (usually they close when the pressure is correct). Check all limit switches, safety switches, and rollback switches, some do not automatically reset and must be manually reset with a button and sometimes the automatically reset ones get stuck and need a little percussive persuasion. See if the ignitor is working. See if the gas valve is energized and if it is make sure it is actually supplying gas. If you get flame for about 4 seconds then it goes out check the flame sensor.
Thank you 🙏🏼😀 I actually just got heat coming out my vent with just following along and I turned off furnace switch for a couple of minutes and tripped the fuse box switch and now I’m getting heat!!! I’ve had 2 maintenance men for last 2 weeks and nothing except with my request of changing wall unit thermostat due to furnace would not come on at setting when it was well below temperature ie; 59 degrees and set to 73 and would only come on when I pushed it up to 84 degrees so that made a difference with a new one Wait... 2 cycles of heat now 2 cold cycle blow just now... any suggestions? Also there’s no filter or bracket if I even try to put filter in I think it would fall over inside of area....
What do you know about control boards? My 120v humidifier and electric air filter is not working properly but therest of the board functions as it should
I am having the same issue I went up the attic and the flames are not igniting I hear the machine on is it expensive to get it fixed or can I do it my self I'm a female so not sure how delicate it is
I think you should follow the steps I’ve shown. It’s not hard and it’s safe as long as you ensure the power is off. If it still doesn’t work, then call a professional. A female is no less capable than a male when fixing things like this.
@@TightWadDIY hi thanks for info so I did have two repair co come out to get different diagnosis one said it was the gas valve with igniter charging me 600 and other co said he was getting voltage to igniter but igniter not igniting so 200 to charge igniter. So now what who is correct ?
Let me know if you have any questions by leaving them in the comments section! Yes, I flipped the wrong breaker in the video. Sorry for the mistake but you get the point.
Here is a link for the limit switch I used.
Primary Limit Switch - amzn.to/2YBShvH
Chris B In Philly Alligator clips are a great option for jumping switches when testing. I never show that because most home owners don’t have them.
Bro thank you veeery much! I woke up at 2 am and my house super cold and i got my wife and kids! I had to make my furnace work so your video helped me out 100%! The safety switch was my problem! Thank u so much! 💪👏 instead of the paper clip i had my terminal kit so endep up using 2 spade connectors and left it running for 30 min just to get the house warm and now turning it off completely just to go to sleep!
Fierro Fierro That is great! I’m glad you were able to get it running temporarily. Hopefully you can find a new switch today to fix it.
Can you make a video on how to fix a
dual fuel board
Outdoor thermostat and
outdoor contactor?
Brittany Lil Bae Davis Sorry, I’m not an HVAC tech. I only repair what breaks in my home and family members’ homes.
I’m a single mother and this shut down on me overnight. With my daughter in mind, I had to figure something out that wasn’t going to cost so much. Thank you so so much!! I watched this video over and over and followed every step minus the breaker. I’m super happy right now and proud.
Yay! I’m glad you were able to get yours fixed!
This sort content is why RUclips exists. Thanks so much for posting this.
Hopefully you got yours fixed too!
Just wanted you to know that your video is still helping people . Its hard to find a good video that explanes things as well as your did for me . I had the same code as seen here and a simple reset was all i needed to fix the problem . Keep up the good videos your doing . They are saving people money and you will reap the rewards of your time . Thank You So Much 👍
Single mother here! Thanks for all your help!!! You saved so much money! New subby!
You’re welcome!
Our furnace was having an issue and of the dozen videos I watched today, this was the only one that helped! Very educational and helpful! Thank you!
That’s great to hear! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I got my furnace working thanks to your easy steps! It was the turn-on button in front of the furnace. Had to have the front panels on just right to keep it pressed down.
I did it. Thanks to you! 🎉❤ You are a lifesaver!
Glad it helped!
God bless you for this my man, i have been trying everything since a week, changed new flame sensor, changed ignator, unplugged and replugged all wires ( that was hard i had to litterally draw them in a peace of paper), cleaned the burners, oiled the inducer motor....works sporadically after system lock down like 4h, and then returned back to on and off, never thought it was the limit switch, did the paper clip trick, i almost shit my pants and even with main power off i was afraid on being electrocuted or sparks that can go to gaz pipe not that faraway, but holly shit man, it worked at every single attempt, now i am ordering it from Amazone and will certainly not operate furnace with a paperclip to burn the house.GOD BLESS YOU MAN.
Yes! I’m glad it worked for you too!
My unit blowing cold air and by following your video I think I should be able to fix my own furnace. You are awesome 👌
Hopefully it works for you too!
this was a great video, it should me what to look for and how to fix it, my problem was it was blowing cold air, i did what the video showed me but still the burners would not come, so i blew air from my mouth toward the heat sensor and a lot of dust came off then it started glowing red, then the burners lite and the furnace was heating the house again, this also showed me that the furnace had not been serviced in some time, i had just recently purchased the house and it was working at the time. Now i can just call in a tech to service the unit and clean everything. before this house i had always had my furnace serviced every year and that will be the same with this one. In the long run it will avoid you having to pay a premium price to have them come out on a overtime call.
Like one of your other commentators I am also aa single mom and of course my furnace went out in the middle of the night. I was able to fix it with these instructions. I need to change the filter more frequently going forward. Thank you!
That’s great! A dirty filter can cause major issues because it suffocated the system.
I love you. Flipped the breaker, cleaned the flame sensor, now i have heat. Thanks boss
Glad I could help
I want to Thank you for your video your a life saver I woke up this morning furnace blowing cold air temp outside 8, I followed your video and now as I speak my home is warming back up👍 thank you again keep up the Great work Have a safe and Blessed 2021...
That’s great! I’m glad it worked for you too! Stay warm!
Same here. This was the only video I found that showed this with the switch on a Lennox. Thanks again.
THANK YOU! Cleaning out the little blower vacuum hose worked for me!! Took me hours and lots of videos, and yours fixed my situation. Thank you :D
I would like to THANK YOU so much for your easy way of explaining this to us. It worked perfectly. After the family Christmas gathering, we came home on Christmas day to a cold house. Great I thought. But thank goodness it was the first thing, you mentioned on your video, the corrosion on the rod. I had visions of the callout and them taking their sweet time in diagnosing the problem and costing me about 500.00 again. It's a Very Merry Christmas after all 😊 Thanks again you made my day!!
I’m really glad to hear it worked for you too!
This video helped. @2:50 My inductor blower tube was clogged. I blow in the tube and no air was flowing throw. I took a piece of wire to clean out. It cleared. Then i put everything back together and the ignitor started glowing again and ignited. Wow.
Thanks!
Global RS Services That’s great! Thanks for sharing your success story.
Nice the flashes of the green light tells you what's wrong with the unit
Yep!
Thank you so much for this video, a very thorough and informational presentation. Praise God for people like you.
I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Great video. Ours does all this but then the burners goes out like the gas gets shut off. Blower will keep running. It was intermittent last year but this year it won't even stay running. Our thermostat is also very old.
This might be the most helpful video I have found
I’m glad it worked for you too! I have over 200 helpful DIY style videos so please consider subscribing.
I fixed my heater thru your video. Thank you sooooo much.
That’s great) I’m glad it worked for you too!
THANK YOU ....excellent step by step explanation and I was able to get my furnace running
FYI...had three PSEG technicians at different occasions...furnace will work for two or three days and off it goes
That’s great! Hopefully it keeps running this time!
Thank you so much. I tried a few other things before I found your video. Nothing worked, all I needed to do was clean my sensor you talked about and I have heat again. Super easy fix thanks so much....
That’s great! I’m glad it’s working again!
Dude thanks I totally fixed my furnace because of this Video
That’s great!
This video is great..! I had the same problem and I straight went to clean the flame sensor which did not help. Then I came across this video which helped me to check if the valve (orange tube part in the video)is blocked and IT WAS....in my case. Just cleaned it with paper clip and the system now runs like champ. Many thanks to you because you saved me lot of trouble and money...!
mayur darji Thata greAt! I’m glad you found the video and that one of the tips helped you. Be sure to subscribe.
Omg!!! The best life saving video ever❤️❤️❤️❤️ 1st thing make sure vents are clean, 2nd if the heat still doesn't cut on, switch the gas fuse for the heat and BOOM, pilot cuts on and it's warm again.
Glo.N Grow I’m glad you found it helpful! Be sure to subscribe!
Thank you so much! Helped me big time. I did everything you said to do in the video plus I also removed the limit switch and tapped on it a few times with the end of my screw driver (to make sure it was closed?). Not sure which step fixed my issue but now my heater works! Thanks again
Brian M That’s great! I love a success story! Thank you for sharing. Be sure to subscribe.
Thanks man just cleaned and got a filter cut it off and back on. Working great now
Glad it helped
This video is what I needed to help me get my furnace working properly "myself". Thanks for the "how to"!
That’s great to hear! Let me know if you have any questions. Be sure to subscribe so you can keep doing it YOURSELF!
Very helpful at my daughters today. Kudos to you sir. Probably would’ve waited a month on the landlords “handyman” followed by a few more days for an hvac company after un-handyman failed to diagnose or remedy. Big ups to you guys. Subbed.
The best piece of advice do it every year with soft nylon scrubber for kitchen and the flame sensor works again
Good to know!
This is actually one of the best videos ive seen.
JustSaiyanSteve That’s a strong compliment. I appreciate it.
Very clear presentation of the steps in troubleshooting furnace blowing cold air instead of warm/hot air! I simply love it because I was able it fix my own furnace by simply following his lead!
That’s great news! I’m glad it worked for you too. Be sure to subscribe!
Video is very helpful. Replaced flame sensor. Furnace is working now but sometimes it stops with rapid red code. When I restarted it works again for a while but will stop working with rapid red again.
Check your charts to see what the new code means.
A little knowledge can be dangerous. If you do a power down reset at the breaker panel, be very aware that power is available in the furnace. Its always better to check once too many than once too few. At the least you might cause more system damage than at the start, at the worst you or a loved one can be killed. Electricity is intolerant of mistakes.
Dude i tried everything! Even considered and thinking it might be the rollout switch. Im done for today but as soon as im out of work tomorrow im try your method with the paperclip. I have the same system and the same light pattern going on. I really hope this works. I will update tomorrow if this works.
You got this!
@ so update i know its almost 2 weeks but your paperclip method worked. Turns out it was the high limit switch it was done for no juice left in it. I was able to replace and voila we got heat!
I had the same problem with my furnace and I found this very well explained video and l was able to find the problem to my furnace thank you for this very helpful video. money $$$$ saver.
Daniel Rodriguez I’m happy to hear you found it helpful.
Cleaned the sensor and now I have heat again! Thanks!
Great! I’m glad it worked for you too!
Thank you so much you just save me $400 and alot of stress.
Armando Herrera You are welcome! I’m glad you were able to get it fixed.
I'm getting the Roll Out switch code blinking. So this looks like it maybe the same issue as yours. Had not thought to close the circuit to test. Good idea. Will try that . Thanks.
Phil Indeblanc Hopefully it’s an easy fix. Let us know how it goes.
Roll out switches are different then the high limit. They are usually one time, or resettable switches. they are safety switches in the event of flame rollout, the most common cause of flame rollout is 1) lack of combustion air to mix with the gas, 2) less often but possible, cracked heat exchanger.
If you are getting a code for rollout switch call a professional.
I'm trying this tonight. Greatly edited informational video
Thank you! I appreciate that.
Very good demo' you and "word of advice TV " produce the best repair advice.
Five years later and still relevant. Thanks.
I’m glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for the video! My Amana 80 SSE is blowing cold air. The inducer and blower motor come on, but nothing else happens. After a few seconds, the inducer turns off and the blower runs continuously. The control board is blinking 4 times indicating an open primary/secondary limit switch. At first, I jumped the wires for the primary (before I realized my unit actually did have a secondary limit switch with a manual reset). No joy. After I traced the wires from the primary, I found the secondary and jumped those wires (after reconnecting the wires for the primary). Same results and 4 flashes. I suppose that both switches could be open and since I was only testing one at a time it still wouldn't work, but that would suggest that both switches failed at exactly the same time and I think that is unlikely. I haven't checked the tube to the pressure switch (mainly because there's a code - 3 blinks - for that). I don't see the igniter glowing because I think I have to remove the cover that the flame sensor is attached to. If the flame sensor is dirty, could that still be the cause of the problem and make the unit report that the limit switch(es) are open? It seems like that error code is a catch-all and that there could be many culprits. Any suggestions?
I am so happy that I found your video. I was searching for Lennox furnace/system but everything that came up looked different or was a different brand too. Just when I was ready to give up, your video started playing. I have that exact system and it just stopped heating. I can hear it starting as it usually does but after 2-3min it shuts off. No heat comes out of the vents. If I turn Fan to On the cold air starts coming out, otherwise no air at all. I hope it's the first two things you showed here and that I'll be able to fix it myself. On Lennox system it seems much easier to access some of these places than on other systems I saw on here. Thank you so much for making and sharing this video!
Bambina336 I’m glad you found it too. This one was very easy to work on. The one in my house is much more difficult. Let me know if it works for you or not.
Yes, I'll definitely report back once I check it tomorrow. But just to be sure I understood correctly - I need to turn power off at the system before checking on first two things or is that not necessary if my system too has that switch in a corner?
Dee Cortan You need the power on to test the system. Make sure you turn it off before messing with the wires though.
Thank you TightWadDIY!
Unfortunately, cleaning the heat sensor didn't help. I did not remove that little red tube because mine is so rigid that it looks like it will break if I try to move it. I think I'll have to call someone in to check it out.
i have a York Diamond 80 Furnace. And twice now over the years it has shown 4 Flashing lights with is the standard
5 flash code for: Dirty filter, improperly sized duct system, incorrect blower
speed setting, incorrect firing rate or faulty
blower motor. HOWEVER each time for me it's truly been-->The Ignitor!!! 4 years ago 4 flashes, Changed Ignitor..works!
Just today, same thing!
Each time both in the past, I would change the High Limit switch and nothing but cold air. The
Ignitor would
NEVER glow. Then for the hell of it I change the ignitor and BAM...it glowed red, ignition! Each time advise
on phone from various support, they always "respected" the listings on the door about limit switches, filter, blower perhaps
to slow, bad circuit board...and concentrated their efforts there! I've kept the OLD ignitors (for some reason) and decided
to OHM test them. The 1st ignitor that failed 4 years ago has 40 ohms reading. The one just today has 85 ohms reading.
The brand new one that is working now...tested it right out of the box has 60 ohms reading! The range according to most
techs, manuals say ignitor should be between 30 and 90 ohms.
In your experiences, can a "good" circuit board produce incorrect codes? According to the York Manual on Page 7 there is
only
ONE code relating to the ignitor and that is "7" flashes --> Flame Could Not Be Established! I suppose that's why all the
techs disregarded any suggestion of changing the ignitor because code was 4 flashes! On the other hand, boards and
codes can only do what designer instruct them to do. Or perhaps a revise manual should state ignitor as another check!
I ordered and had a new high limit switch available. But after I had BY-Passed the High Limit swith and the ignitor failed to
glow,
I got suspicious. The inducer appears strong, no clogs/filter issues, nothing duct-wise changed...so it seemed
Spock)
that the next stage after inducer/blower was the ignitor. So far that is the ONLY part of my York 80 that I've had to change out in 20 years! It's also one of the cheapest parts on the list of repairs too! thankful about that.
Thanks man I think my switch is bad too. I'm going to try the test you showed.
Very useful video. Easy and clear to understand to identify to command problem of the furnace. Keep up the good work! Thanks.
Thanks! I appreciate the thoughtful comment. Be sure to subscribe!
You're my hero! I fixed it myself.
With your instructions of course! Thank you thank you!!!
adjoadjo Thata Great! I’m glad I was able to help. Be sure to subscribe.
@@TightWadDIY you bet!!! I think its so important for women to know these things. We probably spend more $$$ than most, because we panic, dont know, or we get screwed over by repairmen!
Do you have to turn the power back in to the furnace to check?
Thank you for your video,, it was very helpful. it became a simple reset issue. God bless you.
Glad it helped
Thank you so much man your helped fixed my furnace with just a screwdriver!
Andrew Ahlers That’s awesome! What was wrong with yours?
@@TightWadDIY just needed cleaning.
Andrew Ahlers That’s great! The best repair is a free one!
I found your video to be very easy to understand and follow. I replaced my limit switch but still not getting the hot air. Any suggestions?
Did you check the error codes on your unit?
@@TightWadDIY I was getting 7 flashes. I went ahead and cleaned the ignitor probe and it seems to be working now. 😀
@@joes.9448 That’s great news!
@@TightWadDIY thank you for your video. It was very informative and helpful.
thanks so much I was panic my house start getting colder I live in Minnesota you know how is it up here. hey but I just cleaned the burner sensor is running and warm but I still have red & green light flashlight you think I should change the sensor you did on video?
Omar M.T You don’t have an issue with the limit switch if your system is running now.
@@TightWadDIY yes you right is was burner sensor everything work perfect now . but thanks for sharing that video im new home owner i don't have to much experience . good video 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
When enducor motor goes bad do you need to change the whole furnace? My furnace is over 40 yrs old
I would consult a professional…or two.
@@TightWadDIY thanks
Hello GREAT video. I was able to jump the one of the two switches that are sitting on top of the frame above the burners and found one that was defective. Your video was instrumental in suggesting I JUMP the switch. Are these the FLAME ROLLOUT SWITCHES? It's not clear on my manual. Thanks.
Yes those are the rollout switches. They are not automatic reset and there should be a small button in the middle that you press to reset it. But sometimes switches just get stuck and will not reset. There is also the question of why it tripped in the first place. If it wont reset like its supposed to it may just be that it tripped unnecessarily. But there might be another issue as well. Make sure the flames are not actually rolling back before you bypass the safety feature for that.
@@Redtooth75 Yep, thank you for your response. i did additional research and indeed there is a heat/flame rollback. So the furnace is OFF and the technician is coming out to our house to give us a replacement quote. I’m pretty sure it’s a bad heat exchanger. Also, the furnace is 27 years old, soooooo, we are due. Thanks again.
Thank you 🙏 so much for the video. God bless you
You are so welcome
Hi question do you if the common is the one wire or the 2 wires.
I am a multi licensed, well vetted HVAC/R Technician and Teacher....and there are some things I agree with you said, but more things I whole heatedly disagree with.
For starters.....never ever never ever use a paper clip to jump an electrical circuit. This is a safety issue, it can cause a short, and it is not a common field practice PERIOD! Use alligator clips, a jumper wire, or just cut and splice the wires together
Next, Safety Switches are not pet goldfish, they just don't die/fail. They fail from opening and closing over time, or being exposed to extreme conditions. Anytime you condemn a SAFETY SWITCH, you MUST find out why it failed. Air flow is most likely your biggest culprit. After you jump the switch out, check the amp draw on the blower motors, draft and indoor, check your filter (you did mention this, kudos) and take a Delta T (temp rise across the furnace) and confirm your air flow is adequate and make corrections as needed. May not be a bad idea to check gas pressure either....something overheated and opened that switch.
The igniter is not a switch, its a load.
Your turned off 29 not 27 in your panel
Randy Allender I definitely appreciate your input. I will pin your comment so others can see it as well.
Maybe you should make a video...this is helping but would be great if you walked through it live.
I retired from the HVAC Trade after 35 years-Sheet Metal. His video was more than enough to solve the problem with my Furnace.
Wrong is wrong nonetheless. Glad he wasn’t ego trippn and took your constructive criticism well. Classy👍🏽
Omg you literally read my mind. I strongly suggest he stops giving people information. I get it he may be helping so e people. But I can't stress enough that it is so important to have a licensed qualified technician look at your furnace or ac.
Excellent video and helped me to find the same issue on my York G8C series. Thank you!
I would like to add that on my case I noticed that red led was flashing 4 times inside the furnace
Marcelo Elgueta That’s great! I’m glad it worked for you too!
Very helpful, thank you.
But I have a question?
I have a carrier Infinity furnace, it come on heats in low for bout a minute, then stops
Any error codes? Sounds like you have a blockage or something is overheating.
I checked the continuity on the limit switch and it's good. I was told the inducer turns on first then the gas valve then the igniter but I hold the door switch but nothing turns on but the blower
Thank you so much for the video!!!!.
I cleaned the sensor then I unplugged the limit switch and try the paperclip but didn't work. When I plugged the cables back started to run again.
👍
Brenda Rodriguez I’m glad you are back up and running!
Had to clean my flame sensor with sandpaper and now I'm back up and running. Thanks!
That’s great! I’m glad it worked for you too!
That paper clip trick worked!!! Had to comment.
That’s great! I’m glad you have it figured out.
Hi question do you know the name of that hose on first step you mentioned?
Sorry. I do not. Did you check for a parts manual for your unit? It should be listed.
@@TightWadDIY ok will do thanks
Is a gas line propane or natural suppose to have a dirt leg
Sorry I’m not sure.
Someone cut off the pressure switch leads in my Lennox furnace. Can you tell me what the wires connect to coming out of the pressure switch? Thank you
Those wires are NOT polarity sensitive so you should be able to connect either wire to the switch with female spade connectors
@@OGHVAC
The wires are connected to switch. But they are cut coming out of the switch, so where do the wires need to be connected to? Thank you hope it makes sense.
Now my problem with my lennox furnace is slow alternating lights which is the watch gaurd with 3 potential issues. I cleaned my igniter and sensor both that sit in front of burners and nothing. You have any ideas? I come to your channel because you previously helped me with the high limit switch.
You’re a legend. Thank you
😂😂Not quite but thanks!
hi my friend. my heater is flow low heat what is the reason ? can you do some think?
Hello, can you tell me about watchguard, I have a lennox furnace and it keeps saying watchguard mode, valve opens up, looks like everything is working, no flame
Sorry I’m not sure.
Hello, I already tried what you mentioned and I put the paperclip on it and it still doesn't turn on. Do you think it's the ignition sensor?
It doesn't turn red when the blower starts...
Does the valve also need to be on ? Or off?
So you get blue flames but the sensor doesn’t turn red?
THANK YOU SO MUCH ! YOU SAVE ME AROUND $700 DOLLARS
juan of kind That’s great! Just send me $100 then...what a deal! I’m glad you were able to get it fixed.
@@TightWadDIY For real though most maintenance people are crooks. Awhile back my buddy had furnace issues, same issue as this, the guy tried charging him several hundred just for the assessment which took 2 minutes and told him what the repair would cost which was several hundred more on top of that. My friend just thanked him for telling him what's wrong, and said no thanks, that he'd be repairing it himself because that charge was insane. Flat out refused to pay for the assessment and told the man to leave. Most repairmen these days will take advantage of people because they don't know any better or have any mechanical skills whatsoever. Luckily my friend, although not knowing how to diagnose the issue, did know that parts and labor were nowhere near what they should have been. You've got to be a real POS to try and con a war veteran who's disabled and unable to work.
Yoyosten99 It is sad that some repair companies are crooked. I believe that most aren’t and that’s why you should always use referrals. I believe $150-$200 total is reasonable for this type of diagnosis and repair since you have to compensate them for their knowledge and time.
So how would cleaning the flame sensor make the ignitor work?
If there is no flame detected, it will shut the system down.
You are the man thank you
You are welcome!
Should the thermostat be on heat for testing?
Yes
Thanks alot, y r the man!
brief and quiet beneficial.
I’m glad to hear you found it helpful. Be sure to hit that thumbs up and subscribe!
So, you gave me some things to check out - thank you for that. Unfortunately, still blowing cold air. Wiped off sensor with soft cloth (looks like it has been well - used), vacuum hoses checked for clear Clicks are all going off at the right times, but igniter isn't heating up. Could it just be a bad igniter? Furnace was working fine last week, but just quit a few days ago. Luckily, we have a gas fireplace that works great.
BTW, did the jumper cable on the switch trick too - no joy.
Do you have any LED codes?
@@TightWadDIY on the main board, there are 3 lights in a row - amber/green/green stacked vertically. The amber was off and the two greens were steadUnited. I was unable to locate a code key. It is an "ACI Answer 80" Unit.
* steady on
Hello, do you have any videos on Rheem rooftop unit heating not working. Thanks
No. Sorry.
Thank you this is a great video. Needed to know if it was a Normally open or normally closed switch. I got to the right part by the wiring diagram and you took me the rest of the way!!! I just love the fact that everything I learned in automotive school works all over the house. Thanks again
That’s great! I’m glad it worked for you too!
Any idea if concentric furnace vents go bad inside or need replacing?
I replaced my inducer blow motor assembly bc my furnace wasn’t running and the motor was hot and opened it up inside and had broke fan teeth. One the new one was installed furnace kicked on no problem. Now when it falls before the set temperature and doesn’t to turn on it cycles inducer motor starts but blower does not kick on, and can hear the pvc pipe right where the exhaust and intake connect into the concentric vent tubing like clicking. If I reset the system and turn the temperature back up on the Nest it turns on ran for 15min and shut off again. Air filters are pretty new and same as always used, flame sensor is clean. Can’t figure it out
Sorry I’m not sure
As a 33 year HVAC tech, I am pretty confident saying that filter looks to be a washable electro static filter. If it is then most likely the furnace is always running at the high end of the temp rise. And the limit switch probably tripped and reset hundreds of times and then failed, when it should in theory never trip, high limit switches are extremely reliable when operating in proper temp range.
If you take good entering and leaving temp readings near the furnace you can determine if the furnace is operating in range, preferably near the middle.
It requires a magnahelic or manometer and static pressure tips, but taking static pressure readings and comparing the pressure drop to the manufacturers fan curve is one of the best ways to know if the airflow is correct. Sadly many units have undersized duct work that already pushes static high and thus reduces airflow, add in a restrictive filter and often airflow reduces to unacceptable levels. And electrostatic filters are the worst of the worst when it comes to that, next worse is 3M filtreete brand filters. Both often have pressure drops across a clean filter at half or more of what the blower can handle.
In cooling it can cause the evap coil to freeze, and in heating it can cause gas furnaces to run above max temp rise.
VapoRTraiL111 Is there another filter you recommend instead?
@@TightWadDIY I recommend the best filter that doesn't impact proper CFM delivery.
So unless you have some data, there is no recommendation beyond standard fiberglass filters.
You have to know if the system is within proper CFM with no filter in place, if its not than any filter reduces CFM.
if it is delivering proper CFM, you need to know what the static pressure it is working at, then it can be determined how much pressure drop can be allotted to the filter. A filter that meets requirements can then be selected.
Thanks for the videos. Question: we recently had central air installed. Now the problem is that refrigeration coil that was installed is now blocking the warm air from blowing out fully. It just trickles out vents. Is there a way to temporarily remove it during the cold season? Thanks, Jim
JHenzly I am not an HVAC tech so I can’t give you advice on that situation. If you recently had it installed, I suggest asking your installer since they would be familiar with your particular system set up.
@@TightWadDIY Could he have a situation that when he switches to heat mode the heating circuit is connected to a lower speed on the blower motor?
Thank You Very Much and May God Bless You!!
My pleasure!
Thank you so much for your video
You are welcome
Exact same symptoms on my merit series Lennox. I jumped the primary limit but the furnace did not ignite. What would have been your next steps?
Sorry I’m not sure what else to try.
What exactly is that tube in the beginning? My hot surface igniter isn't glowing, I figured that needed to be replaced.
The breaker worked first time thanks
That’s great!
GREAT JOB AND EXPLANATION.
Thanks!
Please keep the great informative videos coming!
Noladude504 I plan to! I should have another video out very soon.
I have a Rheem Criterion that started blowing cold air. I noticed the igniter stopped working and no gas coming out when blower kicked on. The air filter (kitchen ceiling intake) was dirty so I replaced. Also replaced igniter, limit switch, and pressure switch. I cleaned the flame sensor and checked condensate pan…no water.
Also troubleshot the circuit board, appears good.
What am I missing?
You’ve done all of the things I would suggest. I’m not an HVAC tech though.
Does the board give any diagnostic codes?
From what it sounds like it could be a limit or safety switch that is open. If one of them is open the board sets the blower to on and shuts the burner off. But a full troubleshoot starting from the beginningwould be to:
Make sure the board is getting a call for heat. Make sure the inducer motor is running. Make sure the pressure switches are operating (usually they close when the pressure is correct). Check all limit switches, safety switches, and rollback switches, some do not automatically reset and must be manually reset with a button and sometimes the automatically reset ones get stuck and need a little percussive persuasion. See if the ignitor is working. See if the gas valve is energized and if it is make sure it is actually supplying gas. If you get flame for about 4 seconds then it goes out check the flame sensor.
@@Redtooth75 Thanks again for sharing valuable information.
Fabulous name.
The video is great too.
Thanks! I’m glad you liked it!
Hi my blower Fan won't shut of had to kill at switch on unit, no heat also. Most likely high limit switch?
Any direction for Braemar brand ducted heating system?
Sorry I don’t. I’m not an HVAC guy. There are some good ones on here though.
Thank you 🙏🏼😀 I actually just got heat coming out my vent with just following along and I turned off furnace switch for a couple of minutes and tripped the fuse box switch and now I’m getting heat!!! I’ve had 2 maintenance men for last 2 weeks and nothing except with my request of changing wall unit thermostat due to furnace would not come on at setting when it was well below temperature ie; 59 degrees and set to 73 and would only come on when I pushed it up to 84 degrees so that made a difference with a new one
Wait... 2 cycles of heat now 2 cold cycle blow just now... any suggestions? Also there’s no filter or bracket if I even try to put filter in I think it would fall over inside of area....
Kelly Hamilton I am having a hard time understanding your question. Sorry.
What do you know about control boards? My 120v humidifier and electric air filter is not working properly but therest of the board functions as it should
David Vogel I have never worked on them.
Great video to watch
Thank you!
I am having the same issue I went up the attic and the flames are not igniting I hear the machine on is it expensive to get it fixed or can I do it my self I'm a female so not sure how delicate it is
I think you should follow the steps I’ve shown. It’s not hard and it’s safe as long as you ensure the power is off. If it still doesn’t work, then call a professional. A female is no less capable than a male when fixing things like this.
@@TightWadDIY hi thanks for info so I did have two repair co come out to get different diagnosis one said it was the gas valve with igniter charging me 600 and other co said he was getting voltage to igniter but igniter not igniting so 200 to charge igniter. So now what who is correct ?
@@patty7187 That’s not something I can diagnose. Sorry.
Thankfully, good video
I’m glad it worked for you too!
What about the secondary switch, is it same as primary?
I’m not sure.