Beautiful aluminum extrusions and other profiles. Nice crisp results. I cannot believe how small the 0201 SMD parts are. Not for hand soldering. I can do 0402 on a good day
me too. But a friend of mine has bought a nice 3d-microscope. An optical x4 or x8. But it is more than €3000. But when you've seen that you do not want a camera solution any more.... I usually prototype using 0603
Not bad. Generally you have the best mechanical design I ever seen. It is even better than the most of commercial solutions. It looks so strong to make an drill instead of lightweight laser engraving diode. I suggest to work on the software because you still have some lumps and defects on the etched board. Also initial covering the PCB by plastic should be improved (consider spin coating). Some of things may be optimized but it is worth of effort, this machine have a really great potential. Microelectronics is possible (after change red to blue ;) ).
Good morning. Can you please write some information on the laser module you used? What is the wavelength? And the nominal power? Thanks for your attention.
Thank's for your video. Ok, I afforded a TTS-55 from TwoTree. I think my definition ressemble yours. I struggle to see because you don't show a 0.25 mm track. But it seams that problem start around this size with your letters. Some chips need 0.25 to start from them for example the LT8705 power supply. With classic methods: i mean transparency laser printer and UVs etching, i can reach these sizes but there are other problems due to printers: 1/Linearity problems 2/Scaling problems. What paint do you use? Thank's. Jean-Yves.
Great Job, But the Printed Circuit is working ? and i think you can do the itching on just the circuit without the Letters by printing them after itching
Well made! But i'm curious: 1.Do you take special cares for the acceleration / deceleration in the ends of the scanline ? 2. How do you create constant current (90mA) for the LASER during the "on" period ? I think that with a powerful resistor or a powerful transistor acting like resistor, e.t. linear. Possible ways for speedup (in theory): use N lasers, focused each exactly at next scanline so to do N scanlines at once. 3. How long is one point at the scanline ? speed of the head / point_time 4. Why the diode is operated with pulses ? Thus you expose each point with 50% of the power. Doesn't it work within spec. with constant current (e.t. keep it on when you need to expose, keep it off when you need to form a track) ?
Hi,1. Yes start and stop ca 300pix with acceleration / deceleration.2. DAC as referenz, OP with transistor as regulator, analog switch , see my next video...3.0.0206mm ...next video4. i think lifetime !?, I do not have the data sheet and do not know the type.at ca 10mA low, i can see the laser with USB cam.90mA have similar diodes !?The diode will last through many hours already.
Could you explain what you applied to the PCB before running the laser over it? I'd like to replicate this process though I'm not sure what steps you took to prep the board prior to etching - thx
it's photo resist film. Normally you would use a UV light with a mask of your circuit printed on some clear plastic laid over the board. The board has film on it.
Hi, have a questions: 1) what kind of plate you use? its the normal FR4 with or w/o photoresist? 2) what kind of kimicals you use? whay 2 baths? 3) in the first bath, the plastic tanque, what have benid it? its any heat resistor to heat the bath? (you do it yourself or this plastic tank can buy it? 4) where you buy the cnc and the laser? or you build it by yourself? thank you! p.s.: where you from?
Thanks for showing so clearly the performances of your machine. Nice resolution,and great engineering with contained vibrations,judging by result. I dont think to be able to do the same with my best press 'n' peel It would be great to etch the copper directly wit a powerful laser,but to me it looks dangerous as weaponry,1 wrong reflection and one gets blind before feeling the pain. Of course one could enclose the head,once everything works,but,during tests and adjustments everything could happen.
Awesome work. I haven't understood very well what did you do with the lasser diode. Did you attack the copper part to remove? Could you tell more about post prosses?
Is this laser a normal "chinese" laser ? I mean how can you make the dot so small ? Also how do you turn on - off the laser ? are you usung a transistor and a microcontroller ? Your work is amazing !!!
Hi, i am using a 405nm with ca 60mW - 100mW Laserdiode from a XBOX Laser unit.The diode is operated between dark (10mA) and light (90mA) with pulse 50/50 at ca 60 Khz.The lens is a low cost glas lens for 400-500 nm.
+Hobby Elektronik May i ask you to put more details about the lens or a link to buy it from? also can u plz tell us how do you control the laser power? thanks alot
I assume you are using some kind of photo sensitive PCB. Assuming I'm correct, isn't the board sensitive to ambient light? In other words, wouldn't the board be exposed prematurely with this method? Or is it that the board is only sensitive to a particular wavelength? What am I missing? Thanks.
Generally, I find that artificial ambient light, not sunlight (usually UV sensitive - look at his wavelength), has little effect under about an hour anyway with most pre-coated photo-resist PCB (RS Components). Of course, the more you expose it, the more trouble you'll get, but I'd think that this situation would be fine - you could always turn the lights off until it had finished.
Can you describe this process a little? What exactly are you laser etching away? Is it a film or the copper itself? If you're lasering the PCB, then why do you also need to chemically etch it too?
Kristian Keller Thanks. That makes a lot more sense. If I had a laser etcher though, I would go with a paint coating and laser etch everything except the traces away. Then I would continue to etch normally with either acid or household chemicals, depending upon the project.
Whats it like on flexible pcb ,teflon etc ? Looks a damn site easier than the 90's when 0.05mm track gaps were about the smallest using resist and etching!
Could you tell me a software that works (line by line) like that created by you and not working as a classic Mach3 and others. Maybe give control scheme of the laser. Congratulations on achieving !
Could you maybe tell me some more about your etching process aswell as it seems to be two stage process. The covered bits seem to turn black in the bubble tank. Or is that just the lighting?
I know this video is a few years old, im hoping you still read the comments, What are you using to convert a Grb file to solid black and what software are you using as a plotter ?
Hi, resolution on your process is ridiculos ! wow i am very impressed !! I like this , thanks for sharing ! could you please share with us the power of your laser ? thanks
Very good. I wonder if a scanning laser could be made at home. We used to photo expose news paper aluminium printing plates using this process. I assume this would be much quicker than stepping a cnc type machine. Well done
A scanning laser has a variable distance from the laser to the scanned surface. This requires a lens with a variable focal length as function of angle. Laser printers have such lenses, but they are calculated for their infrared laser wavelength and would not work for 405nm. Build the lens and you can have a pcb laser printer.
Wie lange braucht das ganz Board? Erinnert mich an eine Hardcopy-Routine die ich irgendwann in den 80ern für eine Typenrad-Schreibmaschine (mit Centronics) schrieb. Mit dem "." und Microsteps 320x240 pixel in - hmmm, ich glaube 2 Stunden oder so :-) Für Leiterplatten würde ich mal zu gerne dieses "print with conductive silver ink" testen. Dann hast das Ergebnis direkt ohne Chemie. Ich dachte erst, Dein Laser dampft das Kupfer direkt weg :-) Tatsächlich ist die Produktion heute so preisgünstig geworden - sogar für 4 Lagen - mit direktem Upload aus dem Layout-Programm. Das lohnt alles kaum noch. Außer halt für Spaß.
Can you please post the test pattern you used, I'm getting close to etching my first board and this would be a great tool to see the limitations of my setup. Thanks
Nice work! have you tried using this machine with a photoresistive dryfilm applied to a raw board? does it also work? the laser burns out the photoresist out right? or it acts curing the photoresist?
a thousand times thank you for this information! :) saved me from a big frustration. I was going to try it with a photoresist negative film because I didn't know they had a positive film. thanks!
Nice work! Great resolution. Do you think the laser can be controlled by parallel port as if it was a mill, not going line by line but following paths instead? Don't you think this could improve speed? Congrats anyway.
Dude, this project is amazing! How did you do all those pcbs for the atmega and the serial converter? I mean, did you follow a tutorial or something? Do you have the projetct for this machine? I am planning to do a small homemade pcb milling and drilling machine, to have a fully automatic desktop pcb manufacturing machine. Any tips or advides?
Nice work! I was trying to do mine based on spinning mirror prism from laser printer, but never got time to get it finished. It was based on Arduino and was reading BMP picture from SD card and projecting it line by line on the prism. Nowadays PCB manufacturing is very cheap and quick, so I abandoned this idea.
It's believed that the old XBOX laser is PHR-803T or DT0811. So it seems you drive it accordingly. IMO, there's a way to determine the right current, even when you don't know the laser type - measure the threshold current where the diode starts and use 120..150% of it (constant) or 200% - for 50% pulse). The temp. must be under 70 deg. Celsius. What lens (collimator?) did you manage to focus it with ?
Amazing stuff!!! What kind of PCB are you using? I am not totally sure I understand how laser-ing the copper will do this, except if there is a coating on the PCB that the laser is actually burning off... :) Must say the resolution is amazing!!!
The laser is not burning anything, it just exposures the photosensitive coating that is on the pcb. The 405 nM Laser light is close to the light those boards need, 300-400 nm. Hope this make it more clear for you.
Hast Du das Projekt evtl. Irgendwo veröffentlicht und es gibt Die Möglichkeit es nachzubauen.? Kann man Dich beim VERSUCH soetwas auf die Beine zu stellen um Rat fragen?
46x27.5 mm in 13 mins is slow? With photosensitive film/toner transfer + Etching agents + curing, that would have taken over an hour!.. You are making it over 6 times faster.. thats really fast.. I know you would want a faster result with the machine printing like a paper printer, hope some laser like that would be invented some day!
But in comparison to "professional methods" its rather slow. Also it depends on how many u want to print/produce. For me its about 20-30 mins preparation and then like 5-10mins work per board (direct toner). But its great work of course!
Hey! Great job! What software do you use to export the design to the printer so it prints line to line? Is it an Eagle's plugin? Also, what controller do you use to control the laser? The impulses come directly from the ATMega board? Thanks for the help!
Hi, my software translate G-Code from Eagle ULP PCB-GCODE to BMP. The BMP contains then in the correct resolution per one pixel of the laser. The advantage is that you can set the isolation very simply. The software is but still under development. The machine still does not work 100% perfect. (see my next video with two lasers and more speed). Yes, the ATmega128 with 32k SRAM controls the motors and the laser just in time. (timerinterrupt). The PC always transmits a complete row, which is then processed.
Oh I see, it makes sense! But you developed the software yourself? You coded the transcription of the bmp lines to the time impulses sequence, or you got the code from a third party? (If so, from where?)
***** Yes, I write my own programs, Windows programs in C # (Visual Studio), AVR in C (AVR Studio from Atmel). I milled my boards mainly on my self-built CNC. The resolution is not as good because of the small tools. In addition, the areas of the copper surfaces is very time-consuming. Since I got the idea for the printer
Well, it was a pretty good work! Did you consider using an Arduino platform instead of that ATMega? Since it is (from my point of view) easier to program.
***** You do know that the Arduino is just at ATMega and some "getting started" tools and libraries? Once he has a setup to program it without the Arduino libraries and bootloader, he gets no advantage from using an Arduino board in place of just the raw chip. In fact, I think adding that extra RAM is something that can't be done easily in the Arduino system.
Amazing job! Actually i been thinking about building something similar by myself for quick pcb prototyping. Main thing that bother me is output power of laser diode. What wattage should i use to expose photoresist but not damage it? I was thinking of buying from ebay 100mW 405nm laser module with adjustible focus distance. Is it ok for this purpose? And if it not, how could i limit module power output, simple current limitation would do the trick?
200 мВт вполне достаточно с запасом. Лазер в любом случае подключается через преобразователь (чаще всего регулируемый понижающий преобразователь) на нем и регулируется яркость.Посмотрите на мой комментарий выше, там ссылка на модифицированный 3D принтер с лазером для засветки фоторезиста.
Isolation style toolpaths might be quicker than the raster and give you a ground plane too. Anyway it's excellent work, well done!
A lot of work went into this. Thanks for sharing. Its very clever.
you must be proud of yourself ..it's amazing.
Very cool! I am looking to do the same. What is the mW output on the laser diode?
This is craaaaaazy. This is so insane that all of these parts for a machine like this are readily available these days
Beautiful aluminum extrusions and other profiles. Nice crisp results. I cannot believe how small the 0201 SMD parts are. Not for hand soldering. I can do 0402 on a good day
me too. But a friend of mine has bought a nice 3d-microscope. An optical x4 or x8. But it is more than €3000. But when you've seen that you do not want a camera solution any more....
I usually prototype using 0603
Excellent jump "Keep Lasering" :-)
What spray you use on the PCB..
Not bad. Generally you have the best mechanical design I ever seen. It is even better than the most of commercial solutions. It looks so strong to make an drill instead of lightweight laser engraving diode. I suggest to work on the software because you still have some lumps and defects on the etched board. Also initial covering the PCB by plastic should be improved (consider spin coating). Some of things may be optimized but it is worth of effort, this machine have a really great potential. Microelectronics is possible (after change red to blue ;) ).
Excellent job! It must have taken a lot of time and planning. Something for a kickstarter project?
a single video is worth more than 1000 words.
every frame is worth 1000 words
Good work, with great results at the end - i'm very impressed!
Good morning. Can you please write some information on the laser module you used? What is the wavelength? And the nominal power? Thanks for your attention.
hello, I dont know if you are still interested, but here are some informations visible: 1:17
have a great day
@@certified-forklifter thanks
Great video but a little narration of the process would be nice.
Thank's for your video.
Ok, I afforded a TTS-55 from TwoTree. I think my definition ressemble yours.
I struggle to see because you don't show a 0.25 mm track.
But it seams that problem start around this size with your letters.
Some chips need 0.25 to start from them for example the LT8705 power supply.
With classic methods: i mean transparency laser printer and UVs etching, i can reach these sizes but there are other problems due to printers:
1/Linearity problems
2/Scaling problems.
What paint do you use? Thank's.
Jean-Yves.
Great Job,
But the Printed Circuit is working ? and i think you can do the itching on just the circuit without the Letters by printing them after itching
Could you describe what the bubbling process is for at at 5:57? Awesome project!
Beautiful man maybe slow but accurate and very nice resolution. That's what I call precision and high quality, very nice.
So did the laser etch the copper or paint?
Very interesting indeed! A very good job it does too! Would love to build this as always prototyping.
Ian..
Well made! But i'm curious:
1.Do you take special cares for the acceleration / deceleration in the ends of the scanline ?
2. How do you create constant current (90mA) for the LASER during the "on" period ? I think that with a powerful resistor or a powerful transistor acting like resistor, e.t. linear.
Possible ways for speedup (in theory): use N lasers, focused each exactly at next scanline so to do N scanlines at once.
3. How long is one point at the scanline ? speed of the head / point_time
4. Why the diode is operated with pulses ? Thus you expose each point with 50% of the power. Doesn't it work within spec. with constant current (e.t. keep it on when you need to expose, keep it off when you need to form a track) ?
Hi,1. Yes start and stop ca 300pix with acceleration / deceleration.2. DAC as referenz, OP with transistor as regulator, analog switch , see my next video...3.0.0206mm ...next video4. i think lifetime !?, I do not have the data sheet and do not know the type.at ca 10mA low, i can see the laser with USB cam.90mA have similar diodes !?The diode will last through many hours already.
this is incredible, but I don't quite understand what is happening on 5:24
I do not understand. Is the laser removing the unwanted copper or what?
We need more people like you!
Could you explain what you applied to the PCB before running the laser over it?
I'd like to replicate this process though I'm not sure what steps you took to prep the board prior to etching - thx
it's photo resist film. Normally you would use a UV light with a mask of your circuit printed on some clear plastic laid over the board. The board has film on it.
Your heating elements, what are they - defrosters? And what of the published plans for this laser printer? Thanks for the video.
Are you just using activating photoresisit?
Bonjour, superbe vidéo. Quels logiciels utilisez vous? Merci d'avance.
Hi, have a questions:
1) what kind of plate you use? its the normal FR4 with or w/o photoresist?
2) what kind of kimicals you use? whay 2 baths?
3) in the first bath, the plastic tanque, what have benid it? its any heat resistor to heat the bath? (you do it yourself or this plastic tank can buy it?
4) where you buy the cnc and the laser? or you build it by yourself?
thank you!
p.s.: where you from?
Thanks for showing so clearly the performances of your machine.
Nice resolution,and great engineering with contained vibrations,judging by result.
I dont think to be able to do the same with my best press 'n' peel
It would be great to etch the copper directly wit a powerful laser,but to me it looks dangerous as weaponry,1 wrong reflection and one gets blind before feeling the pain.
Of course one could enclose the head,once everything works,but,during tests and adjustments everything could happen.
I suppose this laser is not the 1st price!
What is the (range of) pricision in mm?
Thank's!
nice job, may I ask what etching fluid used for this video?
Wow, super Arbeit, sowas hätt' ich auch gerne zu Hause!
Nice! What kind of Laser is used here?
Awesome work. I haven't understood very well what did you do with the lasser diode. Did you attack the copper part to remove? Could you tell more about post prosses?
How fine of a dot is your laser focused to ????
Was the photoresist used? I understand correctly?
hacım mükemmmel olmuş. bakırı yakıyormusun?
Is this laser a normal "chinese" laser ? I mean how can you make the dot so small ? Also how do you turn on - off the laser ? are you usung a transistor and a microcontroller ? Your work is amazing !!!
Really fantastic resolution! Excellent work! I hope you will find a way to make 2-side PCBs with it!
Very impresive! What is the power of the laser diode you are using?
Hi, i am using a 405nm with ca 60mW - 100mW Laserdiode from a XBOX Laser unit.The diode is operated between dark (10mA) and light (90mA) with pulse 50/50 at ca 60 Khz.The lens is a low cost glas lens for 400-500 nm.
+Hobby Elektronik May i ask you to put more details about the lens or a link to buy it from? also can u plz tell us how do you control the laser power? thanks alot
thank u very much indeed
did u get the link to purchase the laser?
Hi not yet but thanks alot for asking. I might bother you some time later about the your system. thanks alot again for asking.
I assume you are using some kind of photo sensitive PCB. Assuming I'm correct, isn't the board sensitive to ambient light? In other words, wouldn't the board be exposed prematurely with this method? Or is it that the board is only sensitive to a particular wavelength? What am I missing? Thanks.
Generally, I find that artificial ambient light, not sunlight (usually UV sensitive - look at his wavelength), has little effect under about an hour anyway with most pre-coated photo-resist PCB (RS Components). Of course, the more you expose it, the more trouble you'll get, but I'd think that this situation would be fine - you could always turn the lights off until it had finished.
Thank you very much. By the way, outstanding job!
Greetings from Russia! Great job! Is there a description of the hardware and software?
Can you make this project a open source?
Buy 3d printer and laser, in flat cam use option to create path outside route and you have pcb in 1/10 of time in video
@@Roodger.eleventh have cnc 3018 milling, which laser is suitable for this work?
What laser are you using? Would I be able to achieve that much detail with 5 watt focus adjustable Chinese diode laser?
Can you describe this process a little? What exactly are you laser etching away? Is it a film or the copper itself? If you're lasering the PCB, then why do you also need to chemically etch it too?
bugs181 It's not laser etching. He is "just" exposing the photoresist film with a UV laser and afterwards doing development and etching as normal.
Kristian Keller Thanks. That makes a lot more sense. If I had a laser etcher though, I would go with a paint coating and laser etch everything except the traces away. Then I would continue to etch normally with either acid or household chemicals, depending upon the project.
Beautiful. I plan to try the same except with a smaller plotter.
Whats it like on flexible pcb ,teflon etc ?
Looks a damn site easier than the 90's when 0.05mm track gaps were about the smallest using resist and etching!
I can't understand what you do after laser printing.... what was in the first tank and in the second bubble tank.
Could you tell me a software that works (line by line) like that created by you and not working as a classic Mach3 and others. Maybe give control scheme of the laser.
Congratulations on achieving !
Hi! First, you're printer looks awesome! I was wondering what kind of etching solution you were using. Is it hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide?
Hi, no HCL, i use to etching Sodium persulfate (Na2S2O8) at 40 - 50°C.
your*
I tried to print a board with my epson laser printer, but I do not get any conductivity. What am I doing wrong?
Could you maybe tell me some more about your etching process aswell as it seems to be two stage process. The covered bits seem to turn black in the bubble tank. Or is that just the lighting?
Those Trinamics drivers are amazing... did you make them??
what laser power?
What is the wattage of the 405nm solid state laser? Where did you buy it?
I know this video is a few years old, im hoping you still read the comments, What are you using to convert a Grb file to solid black and what software are you using as a plotter ?
great work! what is the laser driver that you used?
Great video. It is capable of making e.x microvias?
why u no vector!? how fine can you get traces and pads? also...damn dude, build a bubble tank! overall awesome though!
Well done sir ! very useful machine.
very nice project , can you tell us how to make this laser machine
Hi, resolution on your process is ridiculos ! wow i am very impressed !! I like this , thanks for sharing ! could you please share with us the power of your laser ? thanks
Very good. I wonder if a scanning laser could be made at home. We used to photo expose news paper aluminium printing plates using this process. I assume this would be much quicker than stepping a cnc type machine.
Well done
A scanning laser has a variable distance from the laser to the scanned surface. This requires a lens with a variable focal length as function of angle. Laser printers have such lenses, but they are calculated for their infrared laser wavelength and would not work for 405nm. Build the lens and you can have a pcb laser printer.
What kind of photoresist solution/material u used?
Wie lange braucht das ganz Board?
Erinnert mich an eine Hardcopy-Routine die ich irgendwann in den 80ern für eine Typenrad-Schreibmaschine (mit Centronics) schrieb. Mit dem "." und Microsteps 320x240 pixel in - hmmm, ich glaube 2 Stunden oder so :-)
Für Leiterplatten würde ich mal zu gerne dieses "print with conductive silver ink" testen. Dann hast das Ergebnis direkt ohne Chemie.
Ich dachte erst, Dein Laser dampft das Kupfer direkt weg :-)
Tatsächlich ist die Produktion heute so preisgünstig geworden - sogar für 4 Lagen - mit direktem Upload aus dem Layout-Programm. Das lohnt alles kaum noch. Außer halt für Spaß.
Can you please post the test pattern you used, I'm getting close to etching my first board and this would be a great tool to see the limitations of my setup.
Thanks
Any info about the machine's HOME position and about aligning the PCB?
Is the laser burn copper of the PCB?
Why not just expose the lack on the PCB with lower optic power?
Awesome! Resolution is great, and 13 min is not that long. Good job! :)
Nice work!
have you tried using this machine with a photoresistive dryfilm applied to a raw board? does it also work?
the laser burns out the photoresist out right? or it acts curing the photoresist?
@Wilian M, This will only work with positive resist, dryfilm is a negative process, in other words the unexposed part is developed away.
a thousand times thank you for this information! :)
saved me from a big frustration. I was going to try it with a photoresist negative film because I didn't know they had a positive film.
thanks!
Chris Bezuidenhout if the laser can burn positive or negative, what difference does it make positive or negative etch resist?
What solution are you using for the etching? Also did you use a uv laser to get rid of the photosensitive stuff? Or is it a normal pb
Nice work! Great resolution. Do you think the laser can be controlled by parallel port as if it was a mill, not going line by line but following paths instead? Don't you think this could improve speed? Congrats anyway.
Could you please release more specs, specifically the laser power.
Hello congratulations for your project this luxury that chemists are using in the process thanks
great what about vias??
what programs did you use?
Dude, this project is amazing! How did you do all those pcbs for the atmega and the serial converter? I mean, did you follow a tutorial or something? Do you have the projetct for this machine? I am planning to do a small homemade pcb milling and drilling machine, to have a fully automatic desktop pcb manufacturing machine. Any tips or advides?
Nice work!
I was trying to do mine based on spinning mirror prism from laser printer, but never got time to get it finished. It was based on Arduino and was reading BMP picture from SD card and projecting it line by line on the prism. Nowadays PCB manufacturing is very cheap and quick, so I abandoned this idea.
vll. eine blöde Frage: Könnte man nicht auch Laser-Isolations-Gravieren?
It's believed that the old XBOX laser is PHR-803T or DT0811. So it seems you drive it accordingly. IMO, there's a way to determine the right current, even when you don't know the laser type - measure the threshold current where the diode starts and use 120..150% of it (constant) or 200% - for 50% pulse). The temp. must be under 70 deg. Celsius. What lens (collimator?) did you manage to focus it with ?
Many thanks for this info.My lens is similar to this (google) AixiZ Blue Laser Glass Lens for 405-455nm
What is the power level on the laser?
Maybe use polygonal mirror?
Amazing stuff!!! What kind of PCB are you using? I am not totally sure I understand how laser-ing the copper will do this, except if there is a coating on the PCB that the laser is actually burning off... :) Must say the resolution is amazing!!!
The laser is not burning anything, it just exposures the photosensitive coating that is on the pcb. The 405 nM Laser light is close to the light those boards need, 300-400 nm. Hope this make it more clear for you.
Hast Du das Projekt evtl. Irgendwo veröffentlicht und es gibt Die Möglichkeit es nachzubauen.?
Kann man Dich beim VERSUCH soetwas auf die Beine zu stellen um Rat fragen?
is that photoresist dry film ?
what kind of laser you ues
10watt blue diod fiber So2 IR?
thanks..
so... it is possible to have the same result with classical methode? typon and UV light...
how many watts is the laser used?
very sick is there a tutorial on how to make this machine
That is amazing, even would be for a professional PCB house.
how do you focus laser? using some optics?
Laser power?
500mW or more?
46x27.5 mm in 13 mins is slow? With photosensitive film/toner transfer + Etching agents + curing, that would have taken over an hour!.. You are making it over 6 times faster.. thats really fast.. I know you would want a faster result with the machine printing like a paper printer, hope some laser like that would be invented some day!
But in comparison to "professional methods" its rather slow.
Also it depends on how many u want to print/produce. For me its about 20-30 mins preparation and then like 5-10mins work per board (direct toner).
But its great work of course!
Hi. Which one program do you making PCB?
Hey! Great job! What software do you use to export the design to the printer so it prints line to line? Is it an Eagle's plugin? Also, what controller do you use to control the laser? The impulses come directly from the ATMega board? Thanks for the help!
Hi, my software translate G-Code from Eagle ULP PCB-GCODE to BMP.
The BMP contains then in the correct resolution per one pixel of the laser.
The advantage is that you can set the isolation very simply.
The software is but still under development.
The machine still does not work 100% perfect. (see my next video with two lasers and more speed).
Yes, the ATmega128 with 32k SRAM controls the motors and the laser just in time. (timerinterrupt). The PC always transmits a complete row, which is then processed.
Oh I see, it makes sense! But you developed the software yourself? You coded the transcription of the bmp lines to the time impulses sequence, or you got the code from a third party? (If so, from where?)
*****
Yes, I write my own programs, Windows programs in C # (Visual Studio), AVR in C (AVR Studio from Atmel).
I milled my boards mainly on my self-built CNC. The resolution is not as good because of the small tools. In addition, the areas of the copper surfaces is very time-consuming. Since I got the idea for the printer
Well, it was a pretty good work! Did you consider using an Arduino platform instead of that ATMega? Since it is (from my point of view) easier to program.
***** You do know that the Arduino is just at ATMega and some "getting started" tools and libraries? Once he has a setup to program it without the Arduino libraries and bootloader, he gets no advantage from using an Arduino board in place of just the raw chip. In fact, I think adding that extra RAM is something that can't be done easily in the Arduino system.
Amazing job!
Actually i been thinking about building something similar by myself for quick pcb prototyping. Main thing that bother me is output power of laser diode. What wattage should i use to expose photoresist but not damage it? I was thinking of buying from ebay 100mW 405nm laser module with adjustible focus distance. Is it ok for this purpose? And if it not, how could i limit module power output, simple current limitation would do the trick?
200 мВт вполне достаточно с запасом. Лазер в любом случае подключается через преобразователь (чаще всего регулируемый понижающий преобразователь) на нем и регулируется яркость.Посмотрите на мой комментарий выше, там ссылка на модифицированный 3D принтер с лазером для засветки фоторезиста.
1. Which is the model and specification of laser?
2. Which is the photoresist?
você compartilharia o controlar cnc ?
where to buy the laser head?
Wow.. That is very very impressive.
Soooo nice :)
I must build it.
Could you provide some information about diode and optics elements that you use it there?
Awesome job on the laser printer man :D
What you mean about positive and negative? Please explain.
Positive means advantages, negative means disadvantages.