Great video...I built the same RO system 4 years ago and it works great! I don't really have any improvements except that I have four RO membranes in a parallel system and made some legs so the system stands up on its own 📐 I'm not sure if it helps but it doesn't hurt. I have found at the end of the season I need to remove the RO housings because they do become moldy inside due to the sugar in the syrup so I only have one strap holding the RO membranes in place. Teflon tape around the threads really helped me as well, it prevented my system from leaking. Any tips on how to get the pressure switch to work?? I have one installed but I can't figure it out....
@@GagneFarms I did see another RUclips video on how somebody was using the same switch on the same RO system. He mentioned something about there's a reset button on the switch and letting the system build up pressure in order for it to work. I will link it to this thread or send you an email directly if you want....?
@A that would be great! I will look for a reset, that does make sense now that you mention it. If you can link it is this thread then it might help some other people out as well. Thanks again!!!
You make it look simple. Another benefit in addition to the ones you listed at the end, is that sap does spoil quickly. The time savings means you can get to it before it spoils. Just put one together this week. Highest sap flow ever this year because winter keeps hanging on. Looks like we all end up with the same components. I put in a single membrane of 500 gallons/day capacity. More cost efficient than a battery of 4 -8 100g/day membranes. I also plumbed the sediment filter at the pump intake rather than the discharge.. Keep-a-goin.
Very good points indeed. That does make sense to put the sediment filter out in front of the pump, so the pump is not sucking in particulates! Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for being succinct! I built the same system last season and it worked great for me. Really reduced the boil time. I’m going to add an additional membrane this year to see if it increases efficiency. Have a great sap season!
I never even thought about building a home made RO. thanks for the video. Do you have a video showing your RO working. I quickly looked and didn't see one.
Yes I actually have 2. Here is a link to the video = ruclips.net/video/ElWznEzdtoQ/видео.html Here is the second one = ruclips.net/video/Kmv7ve87P9o/видео.html Also, I have a Maple Syrup Playlist = ruclips.net/p/PLBhrkOsFvBTkUvKEAAf5nscBbApQqVNG1
Hi..just wanted to thank you for all of your wisdom and help.. I built this RO and boiled 6 gallons of syrup this year. What is your recommendations for storing it?.. I threw out the pre filter.. what do you recommend doing with the Ro filters?
Not a problem at all. I am glad I could help. I throw out the pre-filter as well, they are cheap enough and should be swapped out every so often. The RO Membranes can be kept for the next year as long as they are flushed out really well. You don't want any concentrate left in them or even sap for that matter. I run my permeate through to give it a real good flush. I have seen some people use some peroxide solution to flush through, but I have never done that. You want to keep the membranes moist; they cannot dry out. I will put them in a gallon size Ziplock bag and store in the fridge or in a cool basement. Joe Youngblood has a great video on how he has stored the RO membranes. Not sure if you have seen any of his maple syrup videos but he does a great job explaining his process. Here is his channel link - www.youtube.com/@YoungbloodFamilyFarm
I do not, but that is a great idea for a video once we get running. I flush the membranes and filters out between each run. It really depends on how much sap you run through. I have been running approximately 500+ gallons per season and I change everything out once a year.
Dusty, you can back flush the system with your permeate water just as though you were running the sap water through it. I might suggest once you have flush the system clean with fresh water you keep the fresh water in the system and do not let the RO membranes or the pre-filter dry out.
Hey Bruce that sounds great! There is a parts list in the description. If you are on mobile you might have to go to a desktop to see it easier. Let me know if you have any questions.
Great video. So my daughter and I only have 20ish trees. We have been doing buckets for years! I finally put a main line in. Is this worth it for us. Thanks Fred
Well I guess that depends on how much time you want to spend boiling. And how much money you want to put into your operation. I tap about 60 trees and I totally love it. It has cut my boiling time in half, and in turn I save a bunch of firewood that I do not have to use. I can use the time saved on boiling to do other things around the homestead. I hope this helps!
I don't see the pressure switch listed on your parts breakdown? I have an RO and am very interested in where you got the switch from. I use a float switch right now in a 55 gal drum. Thanks
Great demo! I’ve heard that the higher, the pressure the more sugar you can squeeze out. Have you measured the sugar Contant after concentration in your RO unit?
It's not the pressure that will change the sugar content. It's the amount of times it goes through the RO membrane, or how many membranes it is ran though in a single process. You can run it through a few times if you would like but there is only so much water you can get out before its more economical to just evaporate it. When I run my system it is about 95 - 100 psi. And when I run a batch through it will roughly double the sugar content. So if I start out with raw sap at say 2%-2 1/2% it will be about 4%-5% after the RO process. I hope this helps!
Everything on the parts list says 1/ 4 in except the last item of tubing and connectors. Should I get 1/4 tubing and connectors or is the 3/8 connectors and tubing correct?
Oh good catch. It should be 1/4" tubing. It looks like they changed the link. I will re-link this as well. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for bringing it to my attention.
I used this same filter housing with filter that is shown and linked here and it leaks horribly where the filter housing screws on. Yes there's a o-ring in there. I feel like I need to just get a different filter housing, but is it possible that something else is wrong?? Is it possible the filter doesn't sit in there properly?? So frustrating!
I would check that the filter is going into the top of the housing correctly. The hole in the middle of the filter needs to go into the middle of the top housing when you screw it together. Sometimes it is a bit tricky to line up but once it's straight it will screw right on. I wouldn't think there is anything wrong with your housing unless it is cracked or something. I hope this helps!
Does having more than 1 Reverse Osmosis Membrane with Membrane Housing make a difference? Do you need at least two? Will have 3 or 4 of them Filter it more or doesnt it really matter?
Yes it does help a lot! Last year I went from one membrane to 2 membranes and it doubled my production. I ran with one membrane for a few years, so it is definitely doable. This year I may be making an upgrade in this department, stay tuned for an upcoming video!
That is a great question. I think with this system I was getting 10+ GPH. Yes the pump is big enough for more membranes. Which will make this even faster. I plan on an upgrade this season as well so stay tuned for new videos soon!
What kind of time differences can be saved between RO and straight sap?? Like if I boiled down 100 gals of straight sap in 8hrs, how long would it take 100 gals of RO sap to boil down? I know this is a variable answer question, just ballpark idea is what I'm looking for. Thanks in advance
Well since we are doubling the sugar content say from 2% to 4%. I figure it takes about half the time to boil RO'ed sap. So for your example, normal boil tome of 8 hrs would run about 4hrs once it is ran through an RO. I hope this helps!
I don't recommend using the pressure switch. I have tried using it for about 3 years now and it never really seemed to work properly. I do recommend using the 150gpd membranes. This worked out fantastic for me last year and I really saved a lot of time.
I have a question regarding the location of your pressure switch... does it actualy work in that location?.. if the pipe is vented to your permiate tank, does it ever build up pressure?
I'm obviously only running water through it now.. but it will only go to about 90psi with the needle valve totally closed.. open it about an 1/8 a turn and the hoses are the same rate and it runs at 70
It seems like the pressure switch is designed to shut off when the pump reaches a certain pressure. I'm looking for a pressure switch that senses when the supply tank is empty and shuts off my pump. Any suggestions?
@@GagneFarms Thanks for the update. My season is about a week from being done. But making one for next season. Making one for me would be reducing my weight for how far I got a haul my sap.
I prefer to use the tubing. I can take it off and clean it all out a lot easier. Plus, then I can store it all away for the next season very simple. I do use copper lines as a warmer around the exhaust on my evaporator as it drips into my pan.
@@GagneFarms There is no operational difference for the pump. However, the manufacturer recommends that the pump side be down and the motor part be up in case a fitting or seal leaks the water doesn't damage the electricals. I just learned that this past week.
@mcdls5 I see what you are saying. It does make sense, although I have never had a problem running it the other way. Good luck to you on your upcoming syrup season!
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What other things do you do to improve your Maple Syrup Process?
Great video...I built the same RO system 4 years ago and it works great! I don't really have any improvements except that I have four RO membranes in a parallel system and made some legs so the system stands up on its own 📐 I'm not sure if it helps but it doesn't hurt. I have found at the end of the season I need to remove the RO housings because they do become moldy inside due to the sugar in the syrup so I only have one strap holding the RO membranes in place. Teflon tape around the threads really helped me as well, it prevented my system from leaking. Any tips on how to get the pressure switch to work?? I have one installed but I can't figure it out....
That switch has not worked for me either. I am going to give it one more shot. I have heard that other people had the same problem.
@@GagneFarms I did see another RUclips video on how somebody was using the same switch on the same RO system. He mentioned something about there's a reset button on the switch and letting the system build up pressure in order for it to work. I will link it to this thread or send you an email directly if you want....?
@A that would be great! I will look for a reset, that does make sense now that you mention it. If you can link it is this thread then it might help some other people out as well. Thanks again!!!
@@GagneFarms Will do! I'm looking at mine right now and I can't find where the reset would be. I will look for the link and attach it to this thread.
This is extremely helpful! Thank you so much for sharing the DIY RO set up.
No problem 👍 glad I could help!
Thanks been doing maple syrup for few years now and thinking about making a ro system after watching this see one In near future
Total game changer for sure!
You make it look simple.
Another benefit in addition to the ones you listed at the end, is that sap does spoil quickly. The time savings means you can get to it before it spoils.
Just put one together this week. Highest sap flow ever this year because winter keeps hanging on.
Looks like we all end up with the same components.
I put in a single membrane of 500 gallons/day capacity. More cost efficient than a battery of 4 -8 100g/day membranes. I also plumbed the sediment filter at the pump intake rather than the discharge..
Keep-a-goin.
Very good points indeed. That does make sense to put the sediment filter out in front of the pump, so the pump is not sucking in particulates! Thanks for the tip!
Thank you for sharing how to build our own RO water system, Eric! Great video!
Thanks Roberta! I appreciate it. 😀
Thanks for being succinct! I built the same system last season and it worked great for me. Really reduced the boil time. I’m going to add an additional membrane this year to see if it increases efficiency. Have a great sap season!
No problem John. I added that second membrane this year and it was a game changer! I also upgraded to 150gpd membranes. Highly recommended!
I never even thought about building a home made RO. thanks for the video. Do you have a video showing your RO working. I quickly looked and didn't see one.
Yes I actually have 2. Here is a link to the video = ruclips.net/video/ElWznEzdtoQ/видео.html
Here is the second one = ruclips.net/video/Kmv7ve87P9o/видео.html
Also, I have a Maple Syrup Playlist = ruclips.net/p/PLBhrkOsFvBTkUvKEAAf5nscBbApQqVNG1
Good description. I threw you a sub to help you get over that magic 1K mark.
Thank you so much! I appreciate it.
Very nice! Why not use already existing kit for houses sink?
This video is very interesting, I like it, I am waiting for your next video
Thank you!
Great video Eric. How does the pressure switch work? Someday I need to also assemble my RO again. Thanks for the reminder!
Thanks Joe. We are about to find out how this switch works in a week or so. It's supposed to shut the pump off once it loses pressure....we shall see!
Hi..just wanted to thank you for all of your wisdom and help.. I built this RO and boiled 6 gallons of syrup this year. What is your recommendations for storing it?.. I threw out the pre filter.. what do you recommend doing with the Ro filters?
Not a problem at all. I am glad I could help. I throw out the pre-filter as well, they are cheap enough and should be swapped out every so often. The RO Membranes can be kept for the next year as long as they are flushed out really well. You don't want any concentrate left in them or even sap for that matter. I run my permeate through to give it a real good flush. I have seen some people use some peroxide solution to flush through, but I have never done that. You want to keep the membranes moist; they cannot dry out. I will put them in a gallon size Ziplock bag and store in the fridge or in a cool basement. Joe Youngblood has a great video on how he has stored the RO membranes. Not sure if you have seen any of his maple syrup videos but he does a great job explaining his process. Here is his channel link - www.youtube.com/@YoungbloodFamilyFarm
amazing video! so helpful!! but could you, for the love of GOD get hex screws fir your next project!
Lol. I will see what I can come up with!!!! 😆 hahaha
When I was a plumber that was all we used
Really nice build. Thanks for sharing. 👍
No problem Arielle. Glad you enjoyed it! 😉
Thank you. Very informative and simple.
Thanks John we appreciate it!
This is just a thought but could you put a pressure switch at the beginning of the flow so that when the flow quits it shuts down the system?
Very possible! I am actually going to tinker with that in the off season this year.
Do you have a video on how to clean an store the membranes?And how often do you replace them?
I do not, but that is a great idea for a video once we get running. I flush the membranes and filters out between each run. It really depends on how much sap you run through. I have been running approximately 500+ gallons per season and I change everything out once a year.
Dusty, you can back flush the system with your permeate water just as though you were running the sap water through it. I might suggest once you have flush the system clean with fresh water you keep the fresh water in the system and do not let the RO membranes or the pre-filter dry out.
Great video. I run 27 taps and going to build one to reduce boiling time. I dont see the parts list from your build.
Hey Bruce that sounds great! There is a parts list in the description. If you are on mobile you might have to go to a desktop to see it easier. Let me know if you have any questions.
Not only for maple syrup! Great for growing, etc!
Great video. So my daughter and I only have 20ish trees. We have been doing buckets for years! I finally put a main line in. Is this worth it for us. Thanks Fred
Well I guess that depends on how much time you want to spend boiling. And how much money you want to put into your operation. I tap about 60 trees and I totally love it. It has cut my boiling time in half, and in turn I save a bunch of firewood that I do not have to use. I can use the time saved on boiling to do other things around the homestead. I hope this helps!
I don't see the pressure switch listed on your parts breakdown? I have an RO and am very interested in where you got the switch from. I use a float switch right now in a 55 gal drum. Thanks
The pressure switch came with the Aquatec pump. You get the pump, power supply, pressure switch and a couple fittings.
@@GagneFarms Thank you.
Sounds like the package I got. Paid just over 100$
Great demo! I’ve heard that the higher, the pressure the more sugar you can squeeze out. Have you measured the sugar Contant after concentration in your RO unit?
It's not the pressure that will change the sugar content. It's the amount of times it goes through the RO membrane, or how many membranes it is ran though in a single process. You can run it through a few times if you would like but there is only so much water you can get out before its more economical to just evaporate it. When I run my system it is about 95 - 100 psi. And when I run a batch through it will roughly double the sugar content. So if I start out with raw sap at say 2%-2 1/2% it will be about 4%-5% after the RO process. I hope this helps!
I have heard you want a 2 per to 1 concentrate but you mention 1 to 1. Thoughts?
@@GagneFarms
Yes, that helps a lot! Thanks for your reply.
Can you run this straight from a hose instead of using a pump?
You need to use the pump to create pressure for the sap to be pushed through the ro membranes.
Everything on the parts list says 1/ 4 in except the last item of tubing and connectors. Should I get 1/4 tubing and connectors or is the 3/8 connectors and tubing correct?
Oh good catch. It should be 1/4" tubing. It looks like they changed the link. I will re-link this as well. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for bringing it to my attention.
@@GagneFarms I appreciate you!
@Greg Kerr no problem! I did just fix the link issues. Let me know if you have any other questions!
I used this same filter housing with filter that is shown and linked here and it leaks horribly where the filter housing screws on. Yes there's a o-ring in there. I feel like I need to just get a different filter housing, but is it possible that something else is wrong?? Is it possible the filter doesn't sit in there properly?? So frustrating!
I would check that the filter is going into the top of the housing correctly. The hole in the middle of the filter needs to go into the middle of the top housing when you screw it together. Sometimes it is a bit tricky to line up but once it's straight it will screw right on. I wouldn't think there is anything wrong with your housing unless it is cracked or something. I hope this helps!
I’m currently running 40 taps would the setup you’re using be good for 40 taps?
Yes that would be perfect. I have been running about 60 taps for the past few years and it works great!
Hi what's the link to the pressure swith you are using?
The link is in the description. I believe it comes with the Aquatec pump. So it should be in that link.
Does it require a supply pump. Does it need to be gravity feed
No the aquatec pump will pull it through.
Does having more than 1 Reverse Osmosis Membrane with Membrane Housing make a difference? Do you need at least two? Will have 3 or 4 of them Filter it more or doesnt it really matter?
Yes it does help a lot! Last year I went from one membrane to 2 membranes and it doubled my production. I ran with one membrane for a few years, so it is definitely doable. This year I may be making an upgrade in this department, stay tuned for an upcoming video!
@@GagneFarms Awesome thank you.I will be looking forward to the video
How many gph does this do? Is the pump big enough to ad a 3rd or 4th membrane?
That is a great question. I think with this system I was getting 10+ GPH. Yes the pump is big enough for more membranes. Which will make this even faster. I plan on an upgrade this season as well so stay tuned for new videos soon!
What kind of time differences can be saved between RO and straight sap?? Like if I boiled down 100 gals of straight sap in 8hrs, how long would it take 100 gals of RO sap to boil down? I know this is a variable answer question, just ballpark idea is what I'm looking for. Thanks in advance
Well since we are doubling the sugar content say from 2% to 4%. I figure it takes about half the time to boil RO'ed sap. So for your example, normal boil tome of 8 hrs would run about 4hrs once it is ran through an RO. I hope this helps!
@GagneFarms absolutely does. Since I'm a hobbyist, just wanted to see if it would be worth the investment. Thank you for your timely response.
What does the pressure switch do?
Supposed to shut the pump off if it runs out of sap.
thank you sir ! please can i know if can i use connected sensors to arduino with this system , because i have an Iot project
Not sure about that. I have not added any sensors to this build personally, so I can not say for sure.
Do you have a link for the pressure switch? Also you recommend the 150GPD Filters?
I don't recommend using the pressure switch. I have tried using it for about 3 years now and it never really seemed to work properly. I do recommend using the 150gpd membranes. This worked out fantastic for me last year and I really saved a lot of time.
@@GagneFarms Awesome thank you very much for the response. Just subscribed to your page and now going through all the videos. Great Stuff. Thank you
Thanks Robert I appreciate it. Going to have a bunch of maple syrup videos coming out shortly!
how many taps will that 2 filter RO system handle?
Not sure the maximum amount but I run 60 taps on it and have no problem!
How do you get the needle valve to be a tight fit?
Are you referring to the compression fitting? You just have to be careful and not overtighten. If it leaks a little give it another 1/4 turn.
@@GagneFarms I replaced the plastic tubing with a 1/4 copper tubing . No more leaks.
How many gallons of concentrate are you making per hour?
I would say roughly 10 gal
@@GagneFarms thank you for the info sir.
Switch the drill speed to “1” when driving screws, your screw heads will thank you
Lol. I thought about that while editing.....kind of laughed at myself! 😀
Impact drivers are so much nicer for running fasteners.
Looks like home made straps from pallet bands.
Yes they are. Just nipped the ends and drilled a hole in each end for the screw to go through.
Yeah he rammed in that first one real hard
How much PSI are you running at the pressure gauge once you've dialed in your RO unit?
Anywhere from 95-100 PSI.
@@GagneFarms thank you for the information, I'm almost done building my unit for the upcoming season
@stevenswan2600 That's awesome. You are going to love it! Single best item I purchased for my maple syrup.
I have a question regarding the location of your pressure switch... does it actualy work in that location?.. if the pipe is vented to your permiate tank, does it ever build up pressure?
No. Most people I have talked to have eliminated the switch all together.
We just built 2 today... what pressure do you run at. Thankss for the info
@capitalarearc3316 I run between 96-98 psi. It varies a little but real close to that number.
I'm obviously only running water through it now.. but it will only go to about 90psi with the needle valve totally closed.. open it about an 1/8 a turn and the hoses are the same rate and it runs at 70
Tried sending video..but it wont go through
It seems like the pressure switch is designed to shut off when the pump reaches a certain pressure. I'm looking for a pressure switch that senses when the supply tank is empty and shuts off my pump. Any suggestions?
I have not found one quite yet that shuts off correctly. 😕
float switch?
I find myself designing a Rube Goldberg contraption now.
Is the pressure switch for in case you run out of sap. If so. Which one is it
It is but this one doesn't seem to work very well. I am going to be doing something different with it in the future.
@@GagneFarms Thanks for the update. My season is about a week from being done. But making one for next season. Making one for me would be reducing my weight for how far I got a haul my sap.
And that switch would help me in case I forget about it. Walking away to do something else
I may need some more help to get this going.
Just let me know and I will help in any way that I can.
GPD ?
Well it should be 300gpd. But I would say it is just a little less than that. Maybe 275 gpd.
ALWAYS use copper or stainless steel lines.
I prefer to use the tubing. I can take it off and clean it all out a lot easier. Plus, then I can store it all away for the next season very simple. I do use copper lines as a warmer around the exhaust on my evaporator as it drips into my pan.
The pump is upsibe down.
The pump is not upside down.
@@GagneFarms Maybe "upsibe" means the opposite. You know, a d is a backwards b.
@@GagneFarms There is no operational difference for the pump. However, the manufacturer recommends that the pump side be down and the motor part be up in case a fitting or seal leaks the water doesn't damage the electricals.
I just learned that this past week.
@mcdls5 I see what you are saying. It does make sense, although I have never had a problem running it the other way. Good luck to you on your upcoming syrup season!