I bought the 20 amp stock replacement part (B5B4) from FM for about $33.00. The 80 amp version is recommended on their website for cars with higher power fuel pumps and/or ignition systems. So if your NA/NB is mostly stock, like mine, the 20 amp version seems to be an affordable and acceptable option. I didn't know the 80 amp version existed when I bought my main relay or I may have been tempted to get that one instead even though I have no plans to bump up the power on this car.
Flyin' Miata has a good recent video about their fuel pump relay upgrade kit (link below) and he says the same. If you're 100% stock then replacing with the B5B4 is "an affordable option". If you've got an upgraded ignition system, fuel pump, or even more components on the interior like aftermarket gauges, screens, amps, etc. the incremental cost for the 80A relay is recommended by them. Come to think of it for the fuel pump, FM recommends their DW100 165LHP for the stock replacement, which may benefit from an upgraded main relay. Thx for the comment! Flyin' Miata Main Relay --> ruclips.net/video/RdnLhgCb_Rs/видео.htmlsi=deYKIBO3maUcMko6
Very curious to know what you've got going on here. For the post mounted disconnect switch - can you update us all on how you've set this up? Did you make the clear plastic enclosure and why? Secondly what is the thing to the right of the battery? I forget which year your Miata is? Thank you - great content as always.
You've got a real keen eye! Last year I ran new battery and ground cables to replace the old skinny factory stuff (timed vid link below). The clear plastic thing is a battery post distribution block from Amazon with screw terminals on both positive and negative terminals. On the neg post I have that quick battery disconnect to kill power to the car, which is what I was doing in this video. Mine is 1990 so the wiring might be a bit simpler than yours. And the black canister to the right of the battery is the EVAP canister (vents fuel tank vapours) that I relocated from the engine bay to the trunk to clear space for the power steering reservoir. Great questions dude! New battery cables install -> ruclips.net/video/YzgxW3qaNMU/видео.htmlsi=Dv5dlOnktvC5l32L&t=540
I had a weird issue that after my car started, it wouldn't completely go to run, so my wipers and blinkers wouldn't work until I turned the key ever so slightly towards me.
That sounds suspiciously like the ignition switch. At the very least disassemble, clean, and reassemble your ignition switch and it'll probly clear up those intermittent electrical issues.
Must be a huge relief that it ended up being a relatively cheap and simple fix.
Indeed, literally the best kind of problem
Good sir - I find each of your vids helpful and entertaining. Thank you
Another informative and "useful" video! Good stuff! 👍
@@quanltd getting power sorted for that thing that draws many amps 😉
I bought the 20 amp stock replacement part (B5B4) from FM for about $33.00. The 80 amp version is recommended on their website for cars with higher power fuel pumps and/or ignition systems. So if your NA/NB is mostly stock, like mine, the 20 amp version seems to be an affordable and acceptable option. I didn't know the 80 amp version existed when I bought my main relay or I may have been tempted to get that one instead even though I have no plans to bump up the power on this car.
Flyin' Miata has a good recent video about their fuel pump relay upgrade kit (link below) and he says the same. If you're 100% stock then replacing with the B5B4 is "an affordable option". If you've got an upgraded ignition system, fuel pump, or even more components on the interior like aftermarket gauges, screens, amps, etc. the incremental cost for the 80A relay is recommended by them. Come to think of it for the fuel pump, FM recommends their DW100 165LHP for the stock replacement, which may benefit from an upgraded main relay. Thx for the comment!
Flyin' Miata Main Relay --> ruclips.net/video/RdnLhgCb_Rs/видео.htmlsi=deYKIBO3maUcMko6
Very curious to know what you've got going on here.
For the post mounted disconnect switch - can you update us all on how you've set this up?
Did you make the clear plastic enclosure and why?
Secondly what is the thing to the right of the battery?
I forget which year your Miata is?
Thank you - great content as always.
You've got a real keen eye! Last year I ran new battery and ground cables to replace the old skinny factory stuff (timed vid link below). The clear plastic thing is a battery post distribution block from Amazon with screw terminals on both positive and negative terminals. On the neg post I have that quick battery disconnect to kill power to the car, which is what I was doing in this video. Mine is 1990 so the wiring might be a bit simpler than yours. And the black canister to the right of the battery is the EVAP canister (vents fuel tank vapours) that I relocated from the engine bay to the trunk to clear space for the power steering reservoir. Great questions dude!
New battery cables install -> ruclips.net/video/YzgxW3qaNMU/видео.htmlsi=Dv5dlOnktvC5l32L&t=540
Interesting. My 91 will crank no start about every 50 or so try’s. Looks like it could be my problem also
Sounds like the problem I was having. You may wanna inspect your ignition switch.
Thanks for the video. 👍👍👍
What are your thoughts on the vent windows.
They're great, I love them! I DIY'ed them out of Lexan and aircraft vents. Should I make a video about that?
@@mostlyuselessgarage yes that would be Great..👍👍👍
I had a weird issue that after my car started, it wouldn't completely go to run, so my wipers and blinkers wouldn't work until I turned the key ever so slightly towards me.
That sounds suspiciously like the ignition switch. At the very least disassemble, clean, and reassemble your ignition switch and it'll probly clear up those intermittent electrical issues.
Wait a minute... that causes... intermittently... I think my ignition switch might be bad 😅
Right?? I didn't know until this either!