Thanks for the great video! I will do a similar kind of job on the final drive of my IH 100E Crawler/Loader and hope all will go well. Your video certainly helps me to be prepared for the scope and details of my job.
ingenious grinding of clip pliers to solve ring problem...laying parts in a line for order of reassembly...your '350' story - WOW! last comment - i'm exhausted - soooo much work you're doing!
It could be either. Let's hope that it's the seal in the final, because that will be a LOT easier to fix! however, a swamp yankee fix to a leaky trans shaft seal would be to leave the drain plug for the steering clutch housing out and the leaking oil can exit. Just have to keep refilling trans and/or use a thicker oil.
Ok, I tore mine apart yesterday. It was a greasy mess. I need a new final drive oil seal that sets behind the brake drum, a bearing that sets behind the top quill, a brake band, and a master pin & bushing. All the disks looked good to me. Where did u order your parts from?
Ordered my stuff from steeringclutch.com. Best prices and free shipping over $500 i think. If i were you, i'd replace everything while you're in there. bearings, seals, pressure plate, etc will cost about $600 total and you'll never have to worry about anything on that corner of the machine again. But that's just me.
Glad you filmed this, I was almost 99% positive that there was a fiber and a steel disc behind the hub ring, on jd crawlers message board one guy was saying that only a fiber was behind the hub, another one said fiber and steel, I layed mine out just as they came out and it was just like yours, a fiber and a steel, so thanks. I've got my new disc's installed but I haven't got the tool you check the pressure plate with yet, I may try to make one. If you haven't got your parts yet, you could try tractorparts.com, that's where I got mine, cheaper than that bunch on e bay, thanks.
It actually is just a fiber disk. That's what the manual says, and it is how it came apart. I was incorrect in the video. When you put yours together you'll see why - the ID of the steel disk is larger than the snap ring, so it can't really be on either side of the ring. the fiber goes in first, then the hub, then everything else. I'm editing the re-assembly video now, stay tuned!
when you put it back together you'll see what i mean. the ID of the steel disk is much larger than the snap ring so it can't really be on either side of the snap ring. the fiber disk, however, is retained by the snap ring because it is driven by the inner splines on the hub.
Yeah I saw what you mean today, the reason the steel disc was I thought behind the hub was because it was stuck to the fiber one, yes you're right, thanks. I got mine in and got it back on the loader today, got 4 bolts in, finish up Monday I hope.
the snap ring is actually a lock ring and it uses special pliers with external knurling. www.toolup.com/Blackhawk-By-Proto-PT-1266-PLIER-LOCK-RING-7-3-4 is source. snap on sells them. just move the decimal point be sure to replace that lock ring.. it won't hold its shape after its been distorted.. as for the pilot bearing nub end.. if that is damaged.. some truck manual transmission shops are really great at turning it down and pressing a sleeve on it to bring it back to size. carry on.. i am enjoying this.
Good to know about that tool! I have a home made tool, but it doesn't work super well, depending on the ring size. I'm not sure which of the 4 snap rings you're referring to, but they are all EXTREMELY strong and held their shape fine. The pilot bearing nub end was fine, but the ID that the bearing sits in was trashed. I had a machine shop bore and sleeve it for me. Stay tuned for the re assembly video, it will be up soon!
That is a duel cone seal, don’t touch the steel ring with bare skin, it’s a perfect machined surface that the Pressure from the two surfaces being forced to each other from the o-rings and hub being put together cause the sealing, you have to work the rubber o ring with soapy water and steel ring into each part of the hub together.
Good to know. I'll just buy a new one, as long as i can find it. I don't think touching the steel with my fingers is an issue, seeing as it was covered with sand, dirt, grease, and grime when it came apart!
I wonder if anyone can help me. While attempting to remove the final drive/steering clutch assemble from the tractor, i forgot to release the brake adjustment under the seat of the tractor. While pulling the assembly off the tractor, the brake band has bound around the brake drum and at the brake adjustment bolt, the shaft that adjustment bolt sits on has moved outboard and slipped off th surface it sits on and dropped down about 3/16". this has caused the adjustment bolt to move outwards and is now under the tractor housing, heavy cast main transmission. I am now unable to get a socket on the adjustment bolt, nor am i amble to get the shaft that bolt rides on back up into its proper position. I am stumped and not sure what to do. Possibly the adjustment bolt is seized as well. any ideas to help woudl be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Hold onto your ass if you plan on buying any parts from Deere! They are really proud of their stuff and prices reflect that. The bearings could probably be sourced through any bearing supplier and I believe there is some aftermarket parts available. I like eBay for NOS bearings and parts if you have the time to search for them. You probably already know all this, but I thought it might save some $. Undercarriage and finals work is almost always rough, heavy, and dirty but your a young fellow, so I know you can handle it. An engine hoist would be much kinder to your back if you have room to work. Good luck Conner!
I was able to get numbers off of the bearings, so those are ordered thru ebay. The seals are beat and i can't read numbers, so i'll try to cross reference seal numbers with JD part numbers once i get my parts manual in the mail. One thing i'll probably have to get from Deere is the special hub to final drive seal. I remember reading a story about Deere price gouging. Some guy bought a replacement shaft for a tractor and was hit with a huge cost. He said, "well, i guess when you get a shaft from deere, they want you to get the shaft in more ways than one!"
Haha! Yep, JD will give you the best shafting money can buy! LOL! Those seals are Duo Cone seals very similar to what Cat used in the older haul trucks. I have used those B4 on the old 769 Cat trucks and they are a very finicky seal to use. Every part has to be in perfect condition for them to work. I never cared for them much at all. You should think about investing in some transmission snap ring pliers. I have a couple different sizes and configurations of them and I never regretted buying them.
Interesting that you and another commenter mentioned how finicky those duo cone seals are. they seem pretty durable and basic to me! I'm sure they had some leakage, but i figured it would serve to wash away any contamination that has gotten to them due to the abrasive environment they operate in.
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Thanks for the great video! I will do a similar kind of job on the final drive of my IH 100E Crawler/Loader and hope all will go well. Your video certainly helps me to be prepared for the scope and details of my job.
ingenious grinding of clip pliers to solve ring problem...laying parts in a line for order of reassembly...your '350' story - WOW! last comment - i'm exhausted - soooo much work you're doing!
keep up the good work
Glad you've uploaded these videos. I have a leaking seal causing my brake band to slip, so I'll be a subscriber.
Awesome, thanks! More videos coming soon, waiting for a shaft to come back from the machine shop.
Best I can figure my leak can only come from either the seal behind the brake drum or from the transmission...which do you think?
It could be either. Let's hope that it's the seal in the final, because that will be a LOT easier to fix! however, a swamp yankee fix to a leaky trans shaft seal would be to leave the drain plug for the steering clutch housing out and the leaking oil can exit. Just have to keep refilling trans and/or use a thicker oil.
Ok, I tore mine apart yesterday. It was a greasy mess. I need a new final drive oil seal that sets behind the brake drum, a bearing that sets behind the top quill, a brake band, and a master pin & bushing. All the disks looked good to me.
Where did u order your parts from?
Ordered my stuff from steeringclutch.com. Best prices and free shipping over $500 i think. If i were you, i'd replace everything while you're in there. bearings, seals, pressure plate, etc will cost about $600 total and you'll never have to worry about anything on that corner of the machine again. But that's just me.
Those are called metal face seals. They are really awesome ways to seal in very destructive low pressure environments.
That’s a cute little final drive lol! Take special care when installing that Belleville seal ! Great video thanks for sharing 👍
thanks! stay tuned, more video parts are on their way!
That stuff is heavy. I figured it would have been filthy indide but it looked like clutch material mostly. How do you plan on cleaning the case up?
I used several rags, diesel, compressed air, and a can of carb cleaner. Wasn't too bad to clean because nothing was caked, it was all wet.
Keep those mating surfaces spotless when you put that together. That’s a mechanical seal,it uses oil to make the seal.
Great show. What oil do you recommend for the drive case?
I used 80-90.
Glad you filmed this, I was almost 99% positive that there was a fiber and a steel disc behind the hub ring, on jd crawlers message board one guy was saying that only a fiber was behind the hub, another one said fiber and steel, I layed mine out just as they came out and it was just like yours, a fiber and a steel, so thanks. I've got my new disc's installed but I haven't got the tool you check the pressure plate with yet, I may try to make one. If you haven't got your parts yet, you could try tractorparts.com, that's where I got mine, cheaper than that bunch on e bay, thanks.
It actually is just a fiber disk. That's what the manual says, and it is how it came apart. I was incorrect in the video. When you put yours together you'll see why - the ID of the steel disk is larger than the snap ring, so it can't really be on either side of the ring. the fiber goes in first, then the hub, then everything else. I'm editing the re-assembly video now, stay tuned!
My manual isn't clear on this about the hub.
when you put it back together you'll see what i mean. the ID of the steel disk is much larger than the snap ring so it can't really be on either side of the snap ring. the fiber disk, however, is retained by the snap ring because it is driven by the inner splines on the hub.
Yeah I saw what you mean today, the reason the steel disc was I thought behind the hub was because it was stuck to the fiber one, yes you're right, thanks. I got mine in and got it back on the loader today, got 4 bolts in, finish up Monday I hope.
Right on! You're making good progress. I just put this machine back together last night as well. Out of the garage today or tomorrow!
the snap ring is actually a lock ring and it uses special pliers with external knurling. www.toolup.com/Blackhawk-By-Proto-PT-1266-PLIER-LOCK-RING-7-3-4 is source. snap on sells them. just move the decimal point be sure to replace that lock ring.. it won't hold its shape after its been distorted..
as for the pilot bearing nub end.. if that is damaged.. some truck manual transmission shops are really great at turning it down and pressing a sleeve on it to bring it back to size. carry on.. i am enjoying this.
Good to know about that tool! I have a home made tool, but it doesn't work super well, depending on the ring size. I'm not sure which of the 4 snap rings you're referring to, but they are all EXTREMELY strong and held their shape fine. The pilot bearing nub end was fine, but the ID that the bearing sits in was trashed. I had a machine shop bore and sleeve it for me. Stay tuned for the re assembly video, it will be up soon!
That is a duel cone seal, don’t touch the steel ring with bare skin, it’s a perfect machined surface that the Pressure from the two surfaces being forced to each other from the o-rings and hub being put together cause the sealing, you have to work the rubber o ring with soapy water and steel ring into each part of the hub together.
Duo cone seal
Good to know. I'll just buy a new one, as long as i can find it. I don't think touching the steel with my fingers is an issue, seeing as it was covered with sand, dirt, grease, and grime when it came apart!
Did you press o the brake shaft from the drum? Yeah
I wonder if anyone can help me. While attempting to remove the final drive/steering clutch assemble from the tractor, i forgot to release the brake adjustment under the seat of the tractor. While pulling the assembly off the tractor, the brake band has bound around the brake drum and at the brake adjustment bolt, the shaft that adjustment bolt sits on has moved outboard and slipped off th surface it sits on and dropped down about 3/16". this has caused the adjustment bolt to move outwards and is now under the tractor housing, heavy cast main transmission. I am now unable to get a socket on the adjustment bolt, nor am i amble to get the shaft that bolt rides on back up into its proper position. I am stumped and not sure what to do. Possibly the adjustment bolt is seized as well. any ideas to help woudl be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Hold onto your ass if you plan on buying any parts from Deere! They are really proud of their stuff and prices reflect that. The bearings could probably be sourced through any bearing supplier and I believe there is some aftermarket parts available. I like eBay for NOS bearings and parts if you have the time to search for them. You probably already know all this, but I thought it might save some $. Undercarriage and finals work is almost always rough, heavy, and dirty but your a young fellow, so I know you can handle it. An engine hoist would be much kinder to your back if you have room to work. Good luck Conner!
I was able to get numbers off of the bearings, so those are ordered thru ebay. The seals are beat and i can't read numbers, so i'll try to cross reference seal numbers with JD part numbers once i get my parts manual in the mail. One thing i'll probably have to get from Deere is the special hub to final drive seal. I remember reading a story about Deere price gouging. Some guy bought a replacement shaft for a tractor and was hit with a huge cost. He said, "well, i guess when you get a shaft from deere, they want you to get the shaft in more ways than one!"
Haha! Yep, JD will give you the best shafting money can buy! LOL! Those seals are Duo Cone seals very similar to what Cat used in the older haul trucks. I have used those B4 on the old 769 Cat trucks and they are a very finicky seal to use. Every part has to be in perfect condition for them to work. I never cared for them much at all. You should think about investing in some transmission snap ring pliers. I have a couple different sizes and configurations of them and I never regretted buying them.
Interesting that you and another commenter mentioned how finicky those duo cone seals are. they seem pretty durable and basic to me! I'm sure they had some leakage, but i figured it would serve to wash away any contamination that has gotten to them due to the abrasive environment they operate in.