Thank you! You just saved me a good penny on buying a manual and still being aggravated on the clutch removal process! I feared it was going to be a very in-depth procedure but had hoped not. Again thank you for taking the time to help a working fellow mechanic.
That looked like a foot and hand smashing sob waiting to happen. Looks like a big job on the cleanup alone. Waiting on the future videos of this dozer.
Man your into the big equipment now Conner. I think it would be wise to invest the time into building some sort of gantry hoist that you can roll around with and hang a chain fall off of it. Some good lifting chains and choker straps would be on that list as well. Bailing wire and come alongs are fine for tractor repairs but as you found out that final weighed alot more then you were expecting. I think that drive shaft was just pinched, looks like it will pull out of the final now. You might as well replace everything while your in there such as the brake and bearings too. No reason to take it apart again in the future if you replace all the consumables now. Cant wait to see the next video
I have a gantry crane outside, but i need a shop crane inside. Like an idiot a passed up a nice one for $100 at the last flea market at Zagray! You'll see in the next video why the shaft wouldn't come out. and yes, everything will be replaced while i'm in there.
I wonder if anyone can help me. While attempting to remove the final drive/steering clutch assemble from the tractor, i forgot to release the brake adjustment under the seat of the tractor. While pulling the assembly off the tractor, the brake band has bound around the brake drum and at the brake adjustment bolt, the shaft that adjustment bolt sits on has moved outboard and slipped off th surface it sits on and dropped down about 3/16". this has caused the adjustment bolt to move outwards and is now under the tractor housing, heavy cast main transmission. I am now unable to get a socket on the adjustment bolt, nor am i amble to get the shaft that bolt rides on back up into its proper position. I am stumped and not sure what to do. Possibly the adjustment bolt is seized as well. any ideas to help woudl be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Actually I saw read a manual that said you can rotate the assembly (in this case counter clock wise) and the sprocket shaft would have cleared the steel frame. If you look at it while it was still you can see that this would work.
by "3 bolt plate" you mean the pressure plate? no... there wasn't much room to work, and all the clutch disks were very hard to remove, even with it sitting on the ground in front of me. never could have done it if it was still hanging half-removed from the rear end.
totally depends on what you're using it for. 350 is great because you can haul it with any pickup, and it's nice and small to get in tight areas. I'm just using it for homeowner stuff and probably some jobs at Zagray. If i was moving lots of material, running a large farm, etc i'd probably suggest a 450 or larger. If you're clearing land and trees, you definitely want a larger machine. a D6 will pluck a tree right out of the ground, but a 350 will drag a tree once it's felled with no issue.
He was talking about the 3 bolt plate on the outside of the final. You already had the final slid out on the all-threads, you should have been able to remove that plate and knock that shaft back towards the machine so you could pull the final straight up without the need to cut that frame member. I would have at least pulled it to see before cutting. Otherwise, looks like a good project. Try it on the other side before cutting.
DON’T CUT THE FRAME!! Just did this today! I took the bearing cover off and beat the shaft connected to the brake drum off and was able to slide the whole final off
Could you offer any help? My friend has a 350b dozed that needs the left side steer clutch replaced. We were able to remove the final drive but had to remove the clip from the intermediate shaft that is under the shimmed plate with the 3 bolts. So now we have the clutch assembly still stuck on the inner shaft that is driven off of the ring/pinion carrier. We see that you were able to remove the whole drive and clutch assembly with the inner shaft with it. Can you offer any advice on how to get it the rest of the way out.
If that shaft is stuck, it should still wiggle a little bit. there's play in the splines. The final drive is aligned with dowel pins, it's possible the dowel pins are rusted. they are a tight fit. try putting a jack or porta power horizontally between the bottoms of both final drives and gently apply pressure. might open up a crack that you can get a thin chisel and penetrating oil in.
Good to hear! Your pilot bearing might have blown up too if it's stuck in the hub. I'll be getting back to work on this 350 soon, you'll see the repair on the shaft from the exploded pilot bearing and the re assembly of the machine!
@themadmailler I have a JD 1010 crawler dozer that I had recently adjusted the steering clutches and brake bands on. Long story short I dropped a crows foot wrench down the access panel under the seat and couldn't find it. My question is, since you've had that final apart, do you think it would be a big issue to leave it in there till I get the time to tear it apart and where would it have fallen to to where I couldn't get to it?
ooh, that sucks! It's just a crows foot socket wrench attachment? that's pretty small, it should be OK. maybe do a gentle test run at an idle to see if you hear it clanking around. You might be able ti fish it out with a magnet on a flexy rod. if you do, buy a lotto ticket!
@@themadmailler I was able to get a look at it with a inspection camera and it looked to be on the bottom of the case. I'm gonna double check it tomororw morning and hit it hard pushin dirt again. Heck it's harbor freight anyways so im not too worried about it. Pretty sure I've gotta put new brake bands on it soon anyways
Hi just wondering if you have pulled the reverser out of the John Deere 350b? What would be better? To pull the engine out and get at the reverser or pull the back end off?
i have not, but i believe it is easier to remove the engine. Otherwise you have to break the tracks, remove finals, tranny, and then reverser. Have fun!
For some reason the cover that has three bolts on it that’s inline with the drive shaft might have something to do with things being stuck, maybe a snap ring inside holding driveshaft into place?
If you take a look at the next video, you'll see the reason why it was stuck - exploded pilot bearing! It beat up the splines on the shaft so it wouldn't slide out.
tanks for the video it nice to see strip ..y did one couple month ago...juste wont to led you know in case you do the other side ladder .after the final drive hit the rail juste remove the little cape wear the shaft is in the steering clutch and tie a litle chain block on it (me y weld my self a little braket a made and bolt in hole wear the cap is ) becose that is the center ...y put a jack under final drive and lift up the final drive (lift the botthem and turn it and it past on top of the rail it safe you to cut and weld back)me y put new fibber disk for sterring clutch y but on ebay after market one y use it for a week of hard work removed mapple three and work in rock ..and it stop work in the same side all the fibber disk thee was gone and dust..so y had to remove the final drive again and put bimetalic one...problie good for land scapping the finber one but not for remove stump all day making road in wood....tanks for the video and sorry for my anglish it not the best ...for nice forum y go on www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/index.php
you should by a manual. it will show you how to remove the final without cutting the track frame. you rotate the final 90 degrees and it will clear the frame.
I have a manual. In addition to being rather incomplete, it mentions no specifics about removing the final drive. Also, with the final pulled out as far as it would go, the shaft was not clearing the hole that it slides into in the transmission. therefore, the final could not rotate.
Thank you! You just saved me a good penny on buying a manual and still being aggravated on the clutch removal process! I feared it was going to be a very in-depth procedure but had hoped not. Again thank you for taking the time to help a working fellow mechanic.
Glad i could help!
That looked like a foot and hand smashing sob waiting to happen. Looks like a big job on the cleanup alone. Waiting on the future videos of this dozer.
yes, you definitely need to be careful!
Hey man you kicked it's ass. You don't gotta explain yourself to us that's why god gave us the mighty arc welder. Good video.
Right on! Thanks!
Man your into the big equipment now Conner. I think it would be wise to invest the time into building some sort of gantry hoist that you can roll around with and hang a chain fall off of it. Some good lifting chains and choker straps would be on that list as well. Bailing wire and come alongs are fine for tractor repairs but as you found out that final weighed alot more then you were expecting. I think that drive shaft was just pinched, looks like it will pull out of the final now. You might as well replace everything while your in there such as the brake and bearings too. No reason to take it apart again in the future if you replace all the consumables now. Cant wait to see the next video
I have a gantry crane outside, but i need a shop crane inside. Like an idiot a passed up a nice one for $100 at the last flea market at Zagray! You'll see in the next video why the shaft wouldn't come out. and yes, everything will be replaced while i'm in there.
I wonder if anyone can help me. While attempting to remove the final drive/steering clutch assemble from the tractor, i forgot to release the brake adjustment under the seat of the tractor. While pulling the assembly off the tractor, the brake band has bound around the brake drum and at the brake adjustment bolt, the shaft that adjustment bolt sits on has moved outboard and slipped off th surface it sits on and dropped down about 3/16". this has caused the adjustment bolt to move outwards and is now under the tractor housing, heavy cast main transmission. I am now unable to get a socket on the adjustment bolt, nor am i amble to get the shaft that bolt rides on back up into its proper position. I am stumped and not sure what to do. Possibly the adjustment bolt is seized as well. any ideas to help woudl be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Buy heavy equipment, they said. It'll be fun, they said!
Oo
Actually I saw read a manual that said you can rotate the assembly (in this case counter clock wise) and the sprocket shaft would have cleared the steel frame. If you look at it while it was still you can see that this would work.
I think you're right. however, i didn't have an engine hoist handy and no weightlifter bodybuilder friends to help lift the 300Lb final!
we are having to do the same ting on our 450c hope u get her going
I have a JD350 also, thanks for posting
Thanks! I have more videos coming up, stay tuned!
Mine is a early mod 350 right brake quit working.im dreading fixing it
Working on a 69 350 diesel currently wont move not sure what is the issue maybe hydraulic filter
I have a 350 with same problems now I feel i can think about tackling it!
Right on! Not a bad job, just heavy and time consuming. it's been a 2 month process so far, just messing around with it in my free time.
It would be nice or great if you steam clean the dozer
that 3 bolt plate couldn't have been removed and the shaft driven out so you didn't have to cut the track frame? never worked on one before though
by "3 bolt plate" you mean the pressure plate? no... there wasn't much room to work, and all the clutch disks were very hard to remove, even with it sitting on the ground in front of me. never could have done it if it was still hanging half-removed from the rear end.
I don't think so, that upper final drive shaft comes out the other direction, towards the machine.
totally depends on what you're using it for. 350 is great because you can haul it with any pickup, and it's nice and small to get in tight areas. I'm just using it for homeowner stuff and probably some jobs at Zagray. If i was moving lots of material, running a large farm, etc i'd probably suggest a 450 or larger. If you're clearing land and trees, you definitely want a larger machine. a D6 will pluck a tree right out of the ground, but a 350 will drag a tree once it's felled with no issue.
depending on how much land you have, an older d6 can be had for about the same price as a 450 or 550 and can push a lot more.
He was talking about the 3 bolt plate on the outside of the final. You already had the final slid out on the all-threads, you should have been able to remove that plate and knock that shaft back towards the machine so you could pull the final straight up without the need to cut that frame member. I would have at least pulled it to see before cutting. Otherwise, looks like a good project. Try it on the other side before cutting.
Howdy is the 350 b final drive same as the c?
That’s a big job, too bad you had to cut that channel iron. Looking forward to seeing more....
Yea, i'm not too heartbroken about it though. Not structural, wasn't pretty in the first place, and easy to fix!
DON’T CUT THE FRAME!! Just did this today! I took the bearing cover off and beat the shaft connected to the brake drum off and was able to slide the whole final off
Could you offer any help? My friend has a 350b dozed that needs the left side steer clutch replaced. We were able to remove the final drive but had to remove the clip from the intermediate shaft that is under the shimmed plate with the 3 bolts.
So now we have the clutch assembly still stuck on the inner shaft that is driven off of the ring/pinion carrier. We see that you were able to remove the whole drive and clutch assembly with the inner shaft with it. Can you offer any advice on how to get it the rest of the way out.
Pulling left side final off my 350B loader, got all bolts out but the final won't budge, hope the shaft isn't froze on both ends.
Re-watch starting around 1:30 and also at 2:00, i point out where all the bolts are. I think you might have missed some of the hidden bolts.
No, I got them all out and backed off the brake band too.
If that shaft is stuck, it should still wiggle a little bit. there's play in the splines. The final drive is aligned with dowel pins, it's possible the dowel pins are rusted. they are a tight fit. try putting a jack or porta power horizontally between the bottoms of both final drives and gently apply pressure. might open up a crack that you can get a thin chisel and penetrating oil in.
It was just tight I hit it a few times with the sledge hammer and it came off, the shaft is stuck in the hub, thanks.
Good to hear! Your pilot bearing might have blown up too if it's stuck in the hub. I'll be getting back to work on this 350 soon, you'll see the repair on the shaft from the exploded pilot bearing and the re assembly of the machine!
@themadmailler I have a JD 1010 crawler dozer that I had recently adjusted the steering clutches and brake bands on. Long story short I dropped a crows foot wrench down the access panel under the seat and couldn't find it. My question is, since you've had that final apart, do you think it would be a big issue to leave it in there till I get the time to tear it apart and where would it have fallen to to where I couldn't get to it?
ooh, that sucks! It's just a crows foot socket wrench attachment? that's pretty small, it should be OK. maybe do a gentle test run at an idle to see if you hear it clanking around. You might be able ti fish it out with a magnet on a flexy rod. if you do, buy a lotto ticket!
@@themadmailler I was able to get a look at it with a inspection camera and it looked to be on the bottom of the case. I'm gonna double check it tomororw morning and hit it hard pushin dirt again. Heck it's harbor freight anyways so im not too worried about it. Pretty sure I've gotta put new brake bands on it soon anyways
Hi just wondering if you have pulled the reverser out of the John Deere 350b? What would be better? To pull the engine out and get at the reverser or pull the back end off?
i have not, but i believe it is easier to remove the engine. Otherwise you have to break the tracks, remove finals, tranny, and then reverser. Have fun!
interesting watch - and good comments below. wow. can't wait to see this JD 350-B doing some heavy work for YOU instead
For some reason the cover that has three bolts on it that’s inline with the drive shaft might have something to do with things being stuck, maybe a snap ring inside holding driveshaft into place?
If you take a look at the next video, you'll see the reason why it was stuck - exploded pilot bearing! It beat up the splines on the shaft so it wouldn't slide out.
tanks for the video it nice to see strip ..y did one couple month ago...juste wont to led you know in case you do the other side ladder .after the final drive hit the rail juste remove the little cape wear the shaft is in the steering clutch and tie a litle chain block on it (me y weld my self a little braket a made and bolt in hole wear the cap is ) becose that is the center ...y put a jack under final drive and lift up the final drive (lift the botthem and turn it and it past on top of the rail it safe you to cut and weld back)me y put new fibber disk for sterring clutch y but on ebay after market one y use it for a week of hard work removed mapple three and work in rock ..and it stop work in the same side all the fibber disk thee was gone and dust..so y had to remove the final drive again and put bimetalic one...problie good for land scapping the finber one but not for remove stump all day making road in wood....tanks for the video and sorry for my anglish it not the best ...for nice forum y go on www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/index.php
pic on that site www.appal.org/pix/jd350_/index.html
www.appal.org/webnewspro/140922658578100.shtml
Watched till you had it all back together, wondering what all the parts costed? Yea be nice to have a crane for sure.
it was about $600 for the clutch, brake, and final drive rebuild parts.
Have you done a main clutch and transmission rebuild or removal.
these machines came with a clutch as an option, but they are mostly all equipped with reversers. I have never removed either the reverser or tranny.
My borther-in-law just bought a 450B that needs a right brake cultch
you should by a manual. it will show you how to remove the final without cutting the track frame. you rotate the final 90 degrees and it will clear the frame.
I have a manual. In addition to being rather incomplete, it mentions no specifics about removing the final drive. Also, with the final pulled out as far as it would go, the shaft was not clearing the hole that it slides into in the transmission. therefore, the final could not rotate.
Hi is there any way to message you to ask you some questions ? Thanks
Send an email to themadmailleratgmaildotcom.
You know the real problem is the oil leaking in there right????
nope, clutch was stuck solid and wouldn't disengage. PO filled case with diesel to try to loosen clutches.