I check throw out buy placing a dial indicator on a machinist magnet on the sprocket side bottom flange zero it out continue to tighten and I use a tire iron to lift the flange while reading the guage the right pre loading is important as to not have to much play . I did it once on my 2010 crawler. Excellent video
Can remember many times my Father and older brother working in the garage keeping the equipment from the logging business going just like this. Maybe thats why I chose factory work, but I enjoyed being out there bothering the shit out of them..lol..
Nice video! I've been waiting and hoping I did my rebuild like yours! Mine was basically like yours, so I feel good. One thing I did was to drill holes in those sir clips/ snap rings...made them a bit easier to deal with. Thanks again!
Well, we either both did it right or wrong in the same way! Good idea on those snap rings, working with those big ones really makes you understand why they're called "jesus clips"!
I had to replace the 2 twin seals on a 350 gas burner last week, they cross to a national 472164, John Deere wanted close to $30.00 each for them, got them at Advance Auto $6.00 each.
themadmailler ... Well, I have an update.... We finally got the crawler unstuck yesterday. During inspection, the left track only free-spins and the right drives under power. When I inspected the clutch linkage, the left track lever does not freely move the linkage like the right track (which works well)... At one point, while driving it back to the garage (which sucked) the left track locked up and wouldn't free spin anymore and it would only do a 360 spin. By the end of the day, we were only able to accomplish removing the left track sproket weight, drive sproket & quill cover. With the Crawler left track off and drive sproket having no load on it, the gear under the quill cover did turn, as well as the drive sproket, but while under a load, it won't drive at all.... Additionally, when the clutch is realised, there is a "clunking" sound coming from the upper final drive area.. Our question is, what's the likeliness it could be the clutch/pressure plate versus a thrown shaft? Thanks for all your help in this dinosaur!
it's hard to say, but there's definitely issues with the clutch/brake at least. if you back the brake way off, it should at least freewheel. just take everything apart and replace it all. also sounds like there might be something binding up the track itself?
Hello, I have purchased a 350 john deere. The ID tag for the JD is missing the manual I got with the machine says it's a 4E3D, the S/N 016224T, the loader number on the machine 7350 6055W , the motor number NM43TE018946 T. I am wondering if you can use the engine s/n and the loader number to check the model and s/n, and year. Also, I bought this machine with a blown transmission. I need 1-42 toothed gear and 1 triple stacked gear with 27/33 and 23 teeth and 1 spring that holds the indent ball for the pto leaver in the transmission case.
I just bought a jd350 and have to do the same thing so I’m using a lot of your videos for reference. Where did you get the service manual for that machine? Not sure if it’s a 350 or early 350B sn tag is missing but in the location for those models.
Ebay for the manual. The straight 350 and B are essentially the same and the manual will cover both. There's probably some minor differences between the two that you can research if you're curious to what you have.
@@themadmailler thanks! Yea I found some digital copies online but I’d rather have the hard copy. As long as the clutch packs for steering are the same I’m not too worried, fixing it, using it, selling it. No real desire to keep it after I’m done
Just watched your repair/assembly of the final. I didn't see that there was a sleeve that the throwout bearing rides on. Is that part of the bearing carrier or a separate item? I liked the part where you removed some of the structure to pull the final. The last time (not thinking of such an easy solution), I pulled the complete track frame away for clearance.
@themadmailler where did you get the big final drive seal? AT18946T is what the parts manual shows. Also is the AT18749T required? I didn't see you install it. I assume it came in the kit rather than seperate.
Yeah that's the one...I couldn't find it with the part number from the book...I found a AT36097 that's looks right. I've owned 3 of these dozers and never had to replace the bellville seal. I meant to say I didn't see you give a part number.
Hi the 2 upper seals you put in. You said the spring in the seal always goes toward the oil your sealing. Ok but I couldn't see what direction you put the first seal looked like you edited something there. But. I'm doing same job now as we speak. Which direction? Thanks man
Just wondering if I can get you to email me a copy of this section of the repair manual you have there in this video so I can get my dozer back together and operational
@@themadmailler my email is nolan1696@gmail.com I mainly need the section for the final drive and steering clutch and brake adjustment I have to do possibly the final drive as you did on your 350b and also thanks for sharing and giving us info in your videos
P I seen that you was replacing the bearings but are you replacing the races tobecause if you're not man mismatching new bearings on old races is asking for trouble
I check throw out buy placing a dial indicator on a machinist magnet on the sprocket side bottom flange zero it out continue to tighten and I use a tire iron to lift the flange while reading the guage the right pre loading is important as to not have to much play . I did it once on my 2010 crawler. Excellent video
Great job. I'm like you on putting things back together as they came apart.
Thanks!
Can remember many times my Father and older brother working in the garage keeping the equipment from the logging business going just like this. Maybe thats why I chose factory work, but I enjoyed being out there bothering the shit out of them..lol..
Nice video! I've been waiting and hoping I did my rebuild like yours! Mine was basically like yours, so I feel good. One thing I did was to drill holes in those sir clips/ snap rings...made them a bit easier to deal with. Thanks again!
Well, we either both did it right or wrong in the same way! Good idea on those snap rings, working with those big ones really makes you understand why they're called "jesus clips"!
Yeah… I’ll just be throwing new clutches in and the brake shoe and hope for the best but thanks for showing the right way!!
I had to replace the 2 twin seals on a 350 gas burner last week, they cross to a national 472164, John Deere wanted close to $30.00 each for them, got them at Advance Auto $6.00 each.
I'll watch you repair, as I have a JD440 to rebuild. the detroit 2/54 is real week in it and the track chain is very worn
cool! sounds like that machine has done a bit of work in it's day! more videos on their way.
don't forget to use a paint marker to mark 2018 new bearings and seals on it.
I keep a list in the shop of all the repair work done on my machinery!
Cool project
Thanks!
themadmailler ... Well, I have an update.... We finally got the crawler unstuck yesterday. During inspection, the left track only free-spins and the right drives under power. When I inspected the clutch linkage, the left track lever does not freely move the linkage like the right track (which works well)...
At one point, while driving it back to the garage (which sucked) the left track locked up and wouldn't free spin anymore and it would only do a 360 spin.
By the end of the day, we were only able to accomplish removing the left track sproket weight, drive sproket & quill cover.
With the Crawler left track off and drive sproket having no load on it, the gear under the quill cover did turn, as well as the drive sproket, but while under a load, it won't drive at all.... Additionally, when the clutch is realised, there is a "clunking" sound coming from the upper final drive area..
Our question is, what's the likeliness it could be the clutch/pressure plate versus a thrown shaft?
Thanks for all your help in this dinosaur!
it's hard to say, but there's definitely issues with the clutch/brake at least. if you back the brake way off, it should at least freewheel. just take everything apart and replace it all. also sounds like there might be something binding up the track itself?
No. 1
Thanks!
Hello, I have purchased a 350 john deere. The ID tag for the JD is missing the manual I got with the machine says it's a 4E3D, the S/N 016224T, the loader number on the machine 7350 6055W , the motor number NM43TE018946 T. I am wondering if you can use the engine s/n and the loader number to check the model and s/n, and year. Also, I bought this machine with a blown transmission. I need 1-42 toothed gear and 1 triple stacked gear with 27/33 and 23 teeth and 1 spring that holds the indent ball for the pto leaver in the transmission case.
I think your best bet is to talk to your local JD dealer. Good luck!
Good job.
I just bought a jd350 and have to do the same thing so I’m using a lot of your videos for reference. Where did you get the service manual for that machine? Not sure if it’s a 350 or early 350B sn tag is missing but in the location for those models.
Ebay for the manual. The straight 350 and B are essentially the same and the manual will cover both. There's probably some minor differences between the two that you can research if you're curious to what you have.
@@themadmailler thanks! Yea I found some digital copies online but I’d rather have the hard copy. As long as the clutch packs for steering are the same I’m not too worried, fixing it, using it, selling it. No real desire to keep it after I’m done
You Dial gauge with a magnetic mount to check end play
I know I am kinda off topic but does anyone know a good site to stream newly released movies online ?
@Jace Isaac i watch on flixzone. You can find it by googling =)
@Greyson Ira Yup, I have been using flixzone for since april myself =)
@Greyson Ira Thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :D I appreciate it !!
@Jace Isaac You are welcome xD
Just watched your repair/assembly of the final. I didn't see that there was a sleeve that the throwout bearing rides on. Is that part of the bearing carrier or a separate item?
I liked the part where you removed some of the structure to pull the final. The last time (not thinking of such an easy solution), I pulled the complete track frame away for clearance.
at this point I don't remember. I think it just slid off the sleeve.
@themadmailler where did you get the big final drive seal? AT18946T is what the parts manual shows. Also is the AT18749T required? I didn't see you install it. I assume it came in the kit rather than seperate.
I got the seals and bearings from Ebay. You mean the big seal i talk about at 2:28? I did install it.
Yeah that's the one...I couldn't find it with the part number from the book...I found a AT36097 that's looks right. I've owned 3 of these dozers and never had to replace the bellville seal. I meant to say I didn't see you give a part number.
@@snazzyusername not sure what to tell you! I found the proper seal both individually and in a final drive rebuild kit.
@@snazzyusername just looked at my parts book. AT36097 is the kit, substitute for AT18749. AT18946 looks like just the rubber part.
That's good news because that's what I ordered earlier today. Thanks
Seal rubbers anwashers r called duo cone seals late model machines have same it’s a good set up
Hi the 2 upper seals you put in. You said the spring in the seal always goes toward the oil your sealing. Ok but I couldn't see what direction you put the first seal looked like you edited something there. But. I'm doing same job now as we speak. Which direction? Thanks man
you always want the spring side of a lip seal towards the oil.
@@themadmailler cool. Thanks ,
Like the vids too.
at least your manual didnt say " tighten until you think its going to strip the thread"
Haha!
no need to adjust the preload on new bearings with the shims on the quill?
Who knows - the factory repair manual makes no mention of it, all it says is to be sure that the shims are re-installed with the quill.
themadmailler vague like most manuals
Nice work. Did I notice correct that the John Deere oil seals are actually a Chicago Rawhide (CR) ?
Yes...this is correct. I rebuilt mine last week and the part number is 17381.
Yup! I mention the part number in the video.
Just wondering if I can get you to email me a copy of this section of the repair manual you have there in this video so I can get my dozer back together and operational
I can do that!
@@themadmailler my email is nolan1696@gmail.com I mainly need the section for the final drive and steering clutch and brake adjustment I have to do possibly the final drive as you did on your 350b and also thanks for sharing and giving us info in your videos
P I seen that you was replacing the bearings but are you replacing the races tobecause if you're not man mismatching new bearings on old races is asking for trouble
i kept the old races. Not "correct", but i'm sure it'll be fine.
@@themadmailler I watched all the videos how did the dozer turn out
You probably should have replaced those outer races.
Bulle dozer fiat 14b svp mécanique
I just don't understand why you had to cut that rail. There has to be another way...
Probably, but i wasn't going to be bothered with finding out. path of least resistance!
@@themadmailler I'm only asking cuz I just bought a 1970 JD350....