WHY can't I TUNE MY BOW?! | Top 5 Reasons I get!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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Grip was huge for me to get my bow tuned right. It drive me CRAZY until I figured it out. Now I go through a checklist of which parts of my hand index the bow. Made all the difference in the world
The wife bought me a 1990 Jennings compound (steel cables!) in for my birthday last year. I was missing targets at a few yards despite its forgiving 40" ATA and 40lb draw weight. I watched Average Jack, read Ashby, listened to Lethal Podcast, and talked with RanchFairy and Outdoor Innovations til I thought I knew enough to adjust peep, draw length, draw weight, timing, spine, tip weight, etc. to tune. It's an even more forgiving setup now, though I think I know just enough about tuning to wrongly think I know enough. Bare shaft bullet holes at 5 yards with 770 grains, 32% FOC using $3 Gold Tip 400's from Walmart. These bullet holes were within my first 50 times shooting a bow, ever. Now I just need to keep learning from Nate and practicing til I learn a consistent anchor and grip :P
Nate, you helped me through Instagram a few months ago. I timed my bow and guess what, all arrow tuning issues disappeared! Make sure your bow is timed peeps
Preach, brother!
Can’t wait to see what critical bit of knowledge your about to drop on us in the next video. I’ve walking through a arrow build right now and I couldn’t do it without you!!!!!
Build the draw board! It will probably surprise you how out of time your bow is the first time you use it. I built the DIY draw board and timed my VXR perfectly. Also just made the switch to a thumb button from an index and times the bow to that new release. So far so good. The thumb button while still getting used to it feels so natural to me and I’ve tightened up my groups in my opinion with it.
Preach, brother!!!
I switched to a hinge release this past year after years of shooting and hunting with an index style wrist release. I found I was having the odd arrow flying to the left when shooting my broadheads. I ended up tracing it down to my release.. I was not consistent in the way I made the hinge release go off.. sometimes my first couple shots of a practice session or my last few shots would have me slightly tweaking my form and I would notice these flyers. Although I am more accurate with a hinge release, I found they aren’t as forgiving when switching to broadheads. I ended up doing a lot more practice this hunting season with broadheads to keep me honest and to see when those changes in form would occur so I could address it right away as to not create bad habits. I was blaming my bow at first and then the arrows but those two things are very consistent; it was an inconsistent problem and the most inconsistent part of the whole equation is me!
Sum great information for the beginner archer. If you are serious about Archery folks, the single best investment you can make is a quality BOW PRESS. Building a frat board is second. You will not have to load up and go to the bow shop and probably wait your turn. Then pay the guy $ for his time. For many the shop is a long way from home too. It's been proven one can shoot a not the most expensive bow very very well if it's set up and tuned properly. Especially for hunting the entry level bow will do just fine.
You are such an articulate speaker. You need a podcast. It would be good if you wrote for an archery magazine. Your information is always so precise and to the point. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
Thanks, Gary! Well, I do have some podcast episodes up, but it's not my strongest attempt.
You're on a roll with videos here lately you must be off school on summer break lol
Lol! Not yet! One. More. Week. Then shop work, umpiring, and RUclips work can begin full time. 😁
Another great video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻!
Man you make things look so simple 😁
Dude dropping logic and maths on us. We might be friends 🤣!
As Always your video is very helpful for me and other beginners. Best wishes from Poland 🙂💪
#6 - bare shaft arrow perfection.
#7 - nock tuning
#8 - The archer in question didn't watch the entire AJA catalogue
#9 - ....Aliens....
@@averagejackarchery
Ha - like not ready ashby reports!! Hahahahahahha
Complete noob here, Although I have never shot a bow until recently (5or6times) at the bow shop I love listening to experienced people such as yourself explaining technique's and learning the (how to). Thanks for your videos.
I apologize, but this is the only way I know to get a question to you, and it is off topic. Have you done a video on the choices of fletching angles and the reasons you might chose one over the other. For example, offset, versus helical, versus straight. And more specifically, for those of us who have not experimented, how to you set the jig up for each, and do you need vanes or feathers cut specifically for each, or will a universal vane or feather work? Would love to see that. Really, really, really like your videos. Thank you.
Gotta watch to the end of my videos! Find me on FB, Instagram, or email at averagejackarchery@gmail.com . I need to make a video how to properly search for things in RUclips pages.....
Yes, I have videos on choosing fletchings and helical/offset, etc. Punch into search something like "Fletching average jack archery" and see whatcha find. Or, using a computer, go to my channel homepage and use the eyeglass search in the upper right hand of the screen. Should find it in a jiff.
So true Nate, a lot of people to the FOC freaks and think that's the cats meow......and they encounter all kinds of issues
But you need to keep in mind that some of the FOC freaks came about due to encounters with all kinds of issues. So for some FOC outside the norm is just another headache that they are trying to work around. Arrow manufacturers recommend 10-15% FOC for hunting arrows. And for most people that is just a normal arrow, but with off the shelf arrows from either the box store or even bow shops it isn't hard to end up with a 7-8% FOC and then people are trying to tune their bows to get around an arrow that is inherently unstable in flight.
I guess you could call me on the extreme FOC crowd with my 517 grain 17 % FOC arrow. But after having a paper turned 427 grain 7.5 % FOC arrow with a 100 grain Rage slap a deer with the fletching end at 30 yards something had to change. And that happened about 4 hours after spending time at the bow shop tuning the bow. Field point shot close to bullet hole, broadhead arrows shot sideways.
I’m shooting an old Martin nitro and having terrible time. Had bow shop set it up but I can’t get broadheads to tune. It’s wild how off the drop away can be and still be able to shoot well with field points. With broadheads I’ve been back and forth with rest and even had to turn knock vane down so I don’t hit my 5 pin site. My string is left of center on this particular bow which is causing me to shoot wrong. I’m still working on it. Almost wore out my elbow and ready to upgrade. Hahaha
Correction* Martin onza
Short ATA helps short people like me in their traditional climbing stand. At a 26.5” draw length, it helps to have a 30” bow in a tree stand with a front bar.
i tried to help 2 friends tune their bows right before season last year, the bows tuned fine for me, but for both of them the tail left (if i recall) tears were so bad that it could not be corrected
they were both grabbing the grip like you would a shampoo bottle in federal prison, and they would not try a more proper grip because it felt weird to them
they both think i'm not a good bow tuner because you should be able to tune a bow to any archer's form, which isn't true
My best shooting arrows are my 100 spine, 470gr gold tip XXX... Stiffer is better in a compound bow, that's why high end target arrows GT XXX only come in 100spine...
My second best shooting arrows are 250spine... Next best 300spine... I don't shoot higher than 300spine as the groups start growing noticeably... The only reason I shoot the250-300's at all is I can't find glue in Broadheads for the fat XXX's
I shoot 29"/60#... I shoot 2" groups at 60yd and 5" groups at 100yd... Never had to tune my bows beyond adjusting the rests and sights... 🤷🤓😉👍
Im a target archer.
Timing is spot on and I know my strings n cables have stretched a little but its still in time (lucky eh)
I did an initial line up with the levels and used the mk1 eye ball.
I did a walk back tune from 5yrds to 30 yrds. and its good out to 90 yrds
Bare shafts and fletched arrows land in the same spot out to 50yrds.
It doesnt look good on a paper tune, but Im not going to bother faffing for a paper tune when everything else is running so well.
Sometimes you just dont need to sweat the small stuff.
You know you're from the UK when "faffing" is in the comment. 🤣
I have been known to use “faff” as a verb, and I’m Canadian.
Tried the ashby way last fall before I got to start hunting. Think it was the ATA part.
Thanks! For me it is Grip. Grip. Grip and Grip. So true.
I have an astigmatism. My particular astigmatism causes my red pins to appear to the left of the green pins no matter what torque I have on the grip, and it causes my arrows to hit to the right with the red pins. I'm in the process of changing over to all green pins.
Try single pin scope .
Can you make a video how to fix a bow out of tune? Great video
What bow you got?!
@@averagejackarchery Just saw this comment, I have a 2021 PSE EVO EVL 32 at 60 pounds with a 29 inch draw. Its new, but i know it will become out of tune after i shoot it and the strings break in (from all the info i have read). Just want to continue to increase my knowledge. Thanks
I would like to add pay attention to the quirks of your specific system. For example the old Mathews Solocams tend like the nock point a little high which you would have known if you had bothered to READ THE MANUAL
Yah. All solo cam bows are that way from every manufacturer. It's the nature of physics of all the cam force coming from the bottom of the bow. Their current bows are an interior yoked binary. They "should" run dead nuts level.
you've helped me a ton with your videos, thanks! tuning my bow for the first time myself. got a new arrow and before it was tuned by the shop. I dont have a paper tune rig built, so i just bareshafted with my block target. I got my bareshafts to hit really square in the target, and grouping with my fletched shafts, but my bow is out of center shot. not by an extreme amount, but both left-right and up-down is not center. is this okay or should i make a different arrow? pse stinger 70# 28 inches, arrow is a gold tip hunter 300 28 inches, 100g point and 50g insert, so total about 450g
You get about 1/8" of play both left-right and about 1/4" up-down from perfectly level and square before you're "out of spec".
You forgot one major point 😉! Everything needs to be tight on the bow!! Started to get some flyers last weekend until I saw one of my rest bolt that was loose😬
Ouch! That'll do ya in!
That is actually a very good point. I fell out of the habit having taken some time off shooting, but I used to make it a point to tighten things up now and then and hopefully before I hear a rattle.
I love your insight! Where did that awesome hoodie come from???
Huntworth! Actually a stupid comfy hoodie. Plan on wearing it a lot this fall/winter. 😂
Could you make a video about arrow rest adjusting in sideways. There are so much misinformation should it be moved to left or right when broadheads hit left/right side of field points. And why it should be moved to direction what does not make sense but it just works (nock left tear is fixed by moving arrow rest to right what sounds like nonsense but it works :D). And what there happens and why it is moved that way
Good points here. However, I've never had an issue with broadheads not flying with field points when I go through my entire tuning process. Never have to "specifically broadhead tune" post paper tuning and all the other steps.
One of my bows has insane nock travel. I’ve moved the rest and d loop…just can’t get it.
this english teacher/archer makes Bow problem solving SIMPLE....weeks of bad arrow flight problems fixed by watching his video: "it ann't rocket science" "BRAVO"
i use Krypto's Carbon Arrows 350gr. from Wall-mart but that isn't my problem is used them with my other bow and was still able to fine tune it but just got a 70lbs compound bow with a 29in.draw but sights were set at the lowest it could go and still only got 20yrd wont set any higher how can i fix this without having to take it to a shop? things I've tried is resetting the knocks and adjusting the rest I've seen other videos that show how to adjust them and measure them! but still cant get it to go any further then 20yrd😞 but i also don't use a trigger release i use 3 fingers trigger releases just didn't feel right
Man I have learned a lot from your videos! I'm on my first bow and I prefer to tinker and DIY everything myself. So you talk about a bow being out of spec causes problems and one of the things you mention is ATA length. I measured mine and its about 1/8 short of the manufactured ATA. Should I address this? And what can I do? Is it a problem if I'm getting good bullet holes on paper the way it is?
If there are no problems with your tune, then their are no problems! 1/8" is a very normal tolerance variance with ATA.
Good video keep’em coming. Love the hoddie
The Energizer Bunny has nothing on you brother. I'll have to take a look at the face contact video. Since I picked my bow back up and starting shooting this year, it just feels foreign to me for some reason. I need to do some serious blank bale shooting for a while and work through it. Which I recommend to anyone having form issues. Much easier to work through stuff when not distracting your brain with a bulls eye. Love your videos man !!
What makes me drop my pin below the target??
I believe less is more can you get any kind of accuracy out of a whisker biscuit?
Of course. Very solid rest platform. Can be an incredibly accurate rest.
Great video Nate.
Thanks!
Great vid. What do you consider a “short” ATA? Less than 31.5”? Less than 33”?
For me, 31.5 and in is short for the average person. For myself personally, at 6'4"/31" draw, 33 is still a little short. 🤣
End of season for me...... I am looking for the video of the mom and pop bowstring company you suggested a few videos ago. I can't find it. :/
Perhaps Wicked Threads Custom Strings? Based out of Dillsburg, Pa. Craig is my go-to stringbuilder.
Great video, bud!
So on the thumb release and tuning issues...Even if you tuned the bow while using a thumb button.Or are you talking about if you paper tune it with index then switch to a thumb and dont retune.
Yes, the latter! When you change a release style, anchor point, and face pressure, it's best to shoot through paper to see if anything has changed.
Having only shot an index release and not really looking to change, especially after seeing Brandon McDonald punch himself in the face, how does a thumb release change compred to a index release? If the bow is the same, does your anchor move forward? I am in the "I just dont know". Have you seen the video with BM? Ouch!
BRUTAL! Saw the video ahead of time and man it sucked. So yes, hand release changes the anchor and peep height usually goes up the string a bit. Especially for shorter ATA bows or longer draw lengths. There's a solid 1" difference on nmy hunting rig going from index to thumb/hinge.
Let’s say my bow is within factory settings and timing is perfect, and I go to micro adjust my rest to make sure my bare shafts and my fletched shafts are flying the same as I start to correct the bare shaft I run out of elevation on my rest; what could that mean? What is the d loop tied in toohigh?
That would be the first thing I'd check, yes. Second is to see if your rest has multiple gang adjustment holes. Hamskea for example does this and you have to pull the bolt and put it into a new hole to get full range of adjustment.
@@averagejackarchery thank you for the reply and so timely, (PS. I watch a lot of your videos and have learned so much!) I had a whisker biscuit on the bow and I’m using 5mm arrows; the arrows were also sinking in the whiskers and not staying in place… I’ve switched to a vapor trail and am now shooting bullet holes with both fletched and bare shafts! Also adjusted the D loop just the slightest amount to help correct. Now, to micro tune for my fixed blades… season starts October 1st here in Michigan.
How would you know if your bow is out of tune/time? Man my v3 31 seems really loud I mean lile noticeably loud and the tech keeps treating me lile I'm stupid but I took video of my v3 going off and my hoyt vectrick going off and you can tell in the video its louder.Any ideas
I would spend the $30 and build a draw board! Super easy to crank the bow back and check to see if the V3 cable stops are hitting at the exact same time. If not, it'll make any bow louder. Not just the V3. Also make sure the string stop is just touching the string at rest, not pushing on it and "bulging" it out at rest. Also, an improperly tuned bow meaning the arrow not coming off well can lead to excess noise. Want to get that puppy shooting a bullet hole through paper. The Mathews line is arguably the quietest bow line out there, and the Hoyt Vector/Vectrix is NOT considered a quiet bow. LOL
After putting a stabilizer on my bow, will I need to retune my bow?
Doubtful if it's a normal hunting rig and just one stabilizer in the 6"-12" range.
@@averagejackarchery perhaps should have been more clear. Going from 8” out front to 11” out front and 8” on the side to make a forward right fall come to balance. I guess I can stabilize and shoot though paper and go from there right? I’m a newbie so apologies if it’s an obvious question
@@moonlighthomestead4259 Yup! That's what I would do.
It took me like half a day to tune my bow to "good enough"
But I don't split hairs and I'm retarded.
I just need it to hit a hay bale at 50yds
@Supercreech first time.
Probably should have watched this before asking you if I need to change arrows. My bad. 😂
😆 lololol!
Play the South Park Joseph Smith song in the background… 🤣