Why didn't you use the screw that came with the insert to screw it down to the table? It's meant for the hole closest to you in the center of the insert? Mine doesn't budge even with force applied.
This is the first video i've seen involving the Zero Clearance insert and I wasn't aware it was aluminum. I thought it was going to be some non-metallic material. I'm glad you demonstrated the use of a weight so I'll be prepared for when i do mine (it was on backorder but should be here next week). Thanks for sharing.
J J Piatek you are welcome. I used the weight just because the insert was above the table normally you would set the RIP fence over the insert and cut it that way. It just felt like the blade was touching the insert and wanted to be safe just incase it was. That's why i raised the insert. You may not have to do the same, hopefully. Thanks for viewing.
Thanks for doing these videos Richard, they are very helpful. I just took delivery of my Harvey saw last week and have to finish the assembly. Your videos are super helpful. They are backordered on the miter fence so I'm hoping to get my saw fully assembled before it shows up. One thing I'm having to do is shim the cast extension wing. Without shims it is not coplanar with the saw table. I decided on stainless shims vs masking tape like they suggest in the assembly instructions. Keep up the great videos! Can't wait to see the projects you have in store for your Harvey!
I’m just a DIY getting in the woodworking world and my first table saw it’s a job side for the pass 2 years and I was looking for better table saw and washing yours video make was a good experience i reach to Harvey and there customers service was very very good so i porches my Harvey table saw and few additions for the tables thanks for the videos I really appreciate Tony
I will be putting set screws in the sides òf the insert on all four corners to take the play out of the insert, ,or make my own inserts that fit tighter. In my understanding, ❤the whoĺe point of the zero cleaarance insert is for it to be zero clearance wìth no space on the sides of the blade. Thanks for the videos you share keep up the great workk.
@daveparker2477 lesson learned I'm hopefully going to Harvey next month(March) and get 2 more inserts one for my regular blade and one for my thin kerf blade. This time I'll put tape around the insert and get the tight fit I prefer. That was on thing I should have done prior to cutting the insert . Just didn't like the looseness of the insert so played with it and put masking tape around it 2 times took all the play away. Now its a snug fit , love it
Thanks for the video Richard. I just got my insert on a Saturday. It has a little self adhesive foam pad. Of course directions. I’m going to wait until Monday and call them to see what the foam pad is for. Man this looks like a scary operation. Happy holidays.
Not too scary Larry. Most people put their fence over it and lock it down but remember your fence isn’t on the table top it’s off a little. I’m just a little hesitant because if it doesn’t stay down when you raise the blade to cut into it, you can actually lift the insert that’s why I had that piece of lead laying on it. Keep it down solid against the table top but most of the people just use their fence. not like the insert for my miter saw that cuts down, holding the insert in its place. I’ve never had a metal insert because my vintage table saw I made my own wooden zero clearance and I use the same thing I use the Led bar to hold it in there as I raise the blade slowly just cautionary measure.
@@briangivens5876 I called them and they said it was just to protect the screws. I disagree with Richard, it was scary as hell bringing that blade up. I clamped a piece of plywood down over the blade and left hand side of the table. Still had aluminum chips flying everywhere and lots of them. But, having said that I love it now.
I bought the 2 HP I am hoping there the same. That is scarry just watching you do it. I'm not ready for that glade I watch you first. Now I need to find a weight to put on it like you did. TY grate advise
Thomas I did it that way because I had the weight. Most just lock the fence over the plat making sure it’s about a 1/2” from the blade and do it that way. I would suggest that if you do it with the fence for an even more secure plate. insert a couple of wood shims between the fence and plate. this will keep the plate tight to the table should be fine once the blade pops through it will just cut off the wood shims still keeping it tight to the table . When cut is complete unlock the fence slide it off and the shims will come out all is good and done safely.
I designed one to be 3d printed and printed my own. The blade sets so close to the top surface of the table that is is a bit scary cutting through these. Mine is also a press fit so there is no side to side play.
If I don’t have a big weight can op I just use the fence to hold down the plate? Plus I plan on using the factory blade to cut mine and then replace it with a better blade.
Christopher Ungaro yes most use the fence I just chose the weight because I have it. It wont hurt the blade to cut through the aluminum plate no damage to the tips. I used my brand new blade to cut through, carbide tips are very hard and the aluminum wont effect it at all if your worried
WildPassion I believe so I'd double check the site but it should be. Little tip if you want a more solid fit for the insert Ill be putting a quick video out soon I added masking tape to the inner edge of the insert opening to remove the play now it fits solid with no movement.
robert97dodge no I didn't i actually went to my local nut & bolt supply purchased 4 of the same set screws but at 5/8" length the factory set screw was too short to level the plart to the table top. It's a tip I'm putting in another video I'm still working on. quick question 97 dodge is it diesel?
@@robert97dodge oh OK very nice I asked because I just got my engine mounts and tranny mounts done on my 72 Chevy I’m putting in a 12 valve out of a 98 dodge with an Allison tranny connected to it already have everything I need to build the engine to about 700 hp Cummins are great engines
One question and one comment, why didn’t you just run a standard 8” dia. blade , installed backwards to cut the aluminum insert? That’s the recommended way to cut aluminum with a carbide blade. The insert seems to be a bit sloppy in the hole and needs a small pin at the back end to keep it from lifting. Now you have a 1 1/2 zero insert. 🥴
Use Hot melt glue under the plate after the height adjustment screws raised it up high enough , Glue holds it in place when the fence is over the insert. You were lucky that plate didn't come flying out like a bullet. That weight is no match for your Table saw motor torque. Don't use this method unless you are well insured.
I have a clone copy down here in Australia. When I did this with the Ali insert I put a weight length ways on the left side where blade would come up and slid the rip fence over the right side. After 2 months use both ali inserts have gone and replaced with perspex painted white on the underside, I have 6 inserts made now. Enjoy your bluntness, no pussy pandering.
@@TheShackHome yes mate, for practice I grabbed a piece of plywood then used double sided tape to hold the 2 together, ran them through the band saw (very carefully) then finished by sanding the edges. Once I knew that worked I then did the same with perspex.
Daniel Grabske I don't want to take any chances so either the fence or in my case a lead weight. I'm being cautious. The insert isn't a tight fit, still has play.
There is a nut and bolt on the rear end of the insert, two setscrews on each side, and a threaded insert and bolt on the front. When you adjust those correctly, the insert will be flush with the table, and there will be no play. Use an 8" blade to start the initial cut, then finish with a 10" blade.
Thank you, Mr. Hatch. I just completed making my first aluminum zero-clearance throat. The piece arrived from Harvey but without directions, so I am grateful for your wiser advice. The whole job took me most of the day. First the RUclips studying and then the slow process of of making the finished piece--bringing the blade up gently and then backing off, making only slow gradual progress. My Harvey is a 2HP so I was careful not to strain the motor. Seeing from underneath the table that my old ten-inch blade did not touch the bottom of the throat, I had no need to use a smaller blade. I did try using it backwards (as advised by Richard above), but that was taking too much time and forcing the throat plate up, so I put it in the proper direction. Indeed, the plate has proper screws to hold both ends in place, but out of extra caution I positioned the fence over the plate on one side and then used a clamped board on the other. Besides holding the throat down to counter the rising blade, the board kept the shrapnel from flying all over the place when the blade rose through. I also plugged my vac port. Eventually, I removed the board as soon as I smelt the burning wood so that the blade could more easily complete its course. Four tips for the community: First, clean the sawdust out of the cabinet and the saw cavity and then keep the motor hatch open to prevent heat (or even fire?). Second, if your crank wheel goes stiff, there might be some metal flakes in the gear works, so have an air hose or small brush on hand. Third, wear a mask, goggles, and ear-protection. Fourth, always READ THE COMMENTS made to any RUclips presentation to complete the lesson .
@@kenhatch83 thank you for your directions. I did exactly that and it worked like a charm! The method shown above was not feeling or sounding right, but I’m glad I saw your comment. Thanks 👍🏽
Why didn't you use the screw that came with the insert to screw it down to the table? It's meant for the hole closest to you in the center of the insert? Mine doesn't budge even with force applied.
@@scobob You are spot on. Using the screw at the front of the plate works and is the intended use.
Use a block of wood instead of the lead and hold it down over the insert to allow the blade to come thru the plate and into the wood.
This is the first video i've seen involving the Zero Clearance insert and I wasn't aware it was aluminum. I thought it was going to be some non-metallic material. I'm glad you demonstrated the use of a weight so I'll be prepared for when i do mine (it was on backorder but should be here next week). Thanks for sharing.
J J Piatek you are welcome. I used the weight just because the insert was above the table normally you would set the RIP fence over the insert and cut it that way. It just felt like the blade was touching the insert and wanted to be safe just incase it was. That's why i raised the insert. You may not have to do the same, hopefully. Thanks for viewing.
Thanks for doing these videos Richard, they are very helpful. I just took delivery of my Harvey saw last week and have to finish the assembly. Your videos are super helpful. They are backordered on the miter fence so I'm hoping to get my saw fully assembled before it shows up. One thing I'm having to do is shim the cast extension wing. Without shims it is not coplanar with the saw table. I decided on stainless shims vs masking tape like they suggest in the assembly instructions. Keep up the great videos! Can't wait to see the projects you have in store for your Harvey!
I’m just a DIY getting in the woodworking world and my first table saw it’s a job side for the pass 2 years and I was looking for better table saw and washing yours video make was a good experience i reach to Harvey and there customers service was very very good so i porches my Harvey table saw and few additions for the tables thanks for the videos I really appreciate Tony
anthony delgado it is my pleasure. Congratulations on the new tool I'm confident you'll enjoy. Thanks for viewing
I will be putting set screws in the sides òf the insert on all four corners to take the play out of the insert, ,or make my own inserts that fit tighter. In my understanding, ❤the whoĺe point of the zero cleaarance insert is for it to be zero clearance wìth no space on the sides of the blade. Thanks for the videos you share keep up the great workk.
@daveparker2477 lesson learned I'm hopefully going to Harvey next month(March) and get 2 more inserts one for my regular blade and one for my thin kerf blade. This time I'll put tape around the insert and get the tight fit I prefer. That was on thing I should have done prior to cutting the insert . Just didn't like the looseness of the insert so played with it and put masking tape around it 2 times took all the play away. Now its a snug fit , love it
Thanks for the video Richard. I just got my insert on a Saturday. It has a little self adhesive foam pad. Of course directions. I’m going to wait until Monday and call them to see what the foam pad is for.
Man this looks like a scary operation. Happy holidays.
Not too scary Larry. Most people put their fence over it and lock it down but remember your fence isn’t on the table top it’s off a little. I’m just a little hesitant because if it doesn’t stay down when you raise the blade to cut into it, you can actually lift the insert that’s why I had that piece of lead laying on it. Keep it down solid against the table top but most of the people just use their fence. not like the insert for my miter saw that cuts down, holding the insert in its place. I’ve never had a metal insert because my vintage table saw I made my own wooden zero clearance and I use the same thing I use the Led bar to hold it in there as I raise the blade slowly just cautionary measure.
LSatch did you figure out what the foam pad was for?
@@briangivens5876 I called them and they said it was just to protect the screws. I disagree with Richard, it was scary as hell bringing that blade up. I clamped a piece of plywood down over the blade and left hand side of the table. Still had aluminum chips flying everywhere and lots of them. But, having said that I love it now.
I've been holding off on doing my insert because it is freaking scary as shit! But this has been helpful. Thank you!
@@adirondackjim5678 my pleasure. Thanks for viewing
If you install the screw in the front of the insert plate, will it help center the plate?
I bought the 2 HP I am hoping there the same. That is scarry just watching you do it. I'm not ready for that glade I watch you first. Now I need to find a weight to put on it like you did. TY grate advise
Thomas I did it that way because I had the weight. Most just lock the fence over the plat making sure it’s about a 1/2” from the blade and do it that way. I would suggest that if you do it with the fence for an even more secure plate. insert a couple of wood shims between the fence and plate. this will keep the plate tight to the table should be fine once the blade pops through it will just cut off the wood shims still keeping it tight to the table . When cut is complete unlock the fence slide it off and the shims will come out all is good and done safely.
I just got the zero clearance going to do what you did. Wondering about a Dado plate now?
I designed one to be 3d printed and printed my own. The blade sets so close to the top surface of the table that is is a bit scary cutting through these. Mine is also a press fit so there is no side to side play.
I’m hoping to be able to order my 4 Hp saw in the next few weeks.
What does that saw measure across the top side to side?
Rod if your asking about the 52" total measurements are 31-1/4 x 78-3/8 If you add the rails its 38 x 85 over all foot print
@@TheShackHome thanks for the info.
If I don’t have a big weight can op I just use the fence to hold down the plate? Plus I plan on using the factory blade to cut mine and then replace it with a better blade.
Christopher Ungaro yes most use the fence I just chose the weight because I have it. It wont hurt the blade to cut through the aluminum plate no damage to the tips. I used my brand new blade to cut through, carbide tips are very hard and the aluminum wont effect it at all if your worried
Thank you!
It looks like there is no way to "lock" the insert to the saw. Is that true? It just sits in the opening?
The Papester yes there is. I reshot part if the vid and that part was deleted I adjusted it so it is very snug it wont move.
Will it fit to Harvey Ambassador C300-50? Thank you in advance!
WildPassion I believe so I'd double check the site but it should be. Little tip if you want a more solid fit for the insert Ill be putting a quick video out soon I added masking tape to the inner edge of the insert opening to remove the play now it fits solid with no movement.
@@TheShackHome I checked from the site, but the Harvey Ambassador c300-50 model is not included in the list for this insert.
I think I’ll just use a smaller blade to make the initial cut on my insert.
Just got my 110S put together. I noticed you didn’t put any screws holding the plate down. It has one that screws in from the top. Do you not use it?
robert97dodge no I didn't i actually went to my local nut & bolt supply purchased 4 of the same set screws but at 5/8" length the factory set screw was too short to level the plart to the table top. It's a tip I'm putting in another video I'm still working on. quick question 97 dodge is it diesel?
@@TheShackHome no sir my 97 I bought out of high school was just a 1500. My ‘06 mega cab I have now is a 5.9 Cummins and 6spd manual though
@@robert97dodge oh OK very nice I asked because I just got my engine mounts and tranny mounts done on my 72 Chevy I’m putting in a 12 valve out of a 98 dodge with an Allison tranny connected to it already have everything I need to build the engine to about 700 hp Cummins are great engines
@@TheShackHome very nice! Sounds like a sweet build. I bet you’re catching a lot of hate from the Chevy guys though. 😂😂
Great video! I get my new Harvey in a couple weeks. Do you know if you can get a tattoo insert for this saw?
One question and one comment, why didn’t you just run a standard 8” dia. blade , installed backwards to cut the aluminum insert? That’s the recommended way to cut aluminum with a carbide blade. The insert seems to be a bit sloppy in the hole and needs a small pin at the back end to keep it from lifting. Now you have a 1 1/2 zero insert. 🥴
It's too much play for that insert. a little disappointment. Thank you for showing it!
Use Hot melt glue under the plate after the height adjustment screws raised it up high enough , Glue holds it in place when the fence is over the insert. You were lucky that plate didn't come flying out like a bullet. That weight is no match for your Table saw motor torque.
Don't use this method unless you are well insured.
I have a clone copy down here in Australia. When I did this with the Ali insert I put a weight length ways on the left side where blade would come up and slid the rip fence over the right side. After 2 months use both ali inserts have gone and replaced with perspex painted white on the underside, I have 6 inserts made now. Enjoy your bluntness, no pussy pandering.
Tony McKessar my brother from down under well stated. quick question did you use the originals as a template for the new ones.
@@TheShackHome yes mate, for practice I grabbed a piece of plywood then used double sided tape to hold the 2 together, ran them through the band saw (very carefully) then finished by sanding the edges. Once I knew that worked I then did the same with perspex.
Why didn't you just bolt it down before you started. It shouldn't go anywhere , and it would be centered
Daniel Grabske I don't want to take any chances so either the fence or in my case a lead weight. I'm being cautious. The insert isn't a tight fit, still has play.
That should be a phenolic insert rather than aluminum. I don’t like the idea of bringing the blade up they metal.
Holy moly... take this video down. When installed correctly the insert is tight and does not move. You're gonna get someone killed.
Ken what is the correct way to install the insert so there isn't any play.
There is a nut and bolt on the rear end of the insert, two setscrews on each side, and a threaded insert and bolt on the front. When you adjust those correctly, the insert will be flush with the table, and there will be no play. Use an 8" blade to start the initial cut, then finish with a 10" blade.
Thank you, Mr. Hatch. I just completed making my first aluminum zero-clearance throat. The piece arrived from Harvey but without directions, so I am grateful for your wiser advice. The whole job took me most of the day. First the RUclips studying and then the slow process of of making the finished piece--bringing the blade up gently and then backing off, making only slow gradual progress. My Harvey is a 2HP so I was careful not to strain the motor.
Seeing from underneath the table that my old ten-inch blade did not touch the bottom of the throat, I had no need to use a smaller blade. I did try using it backwards (as advised by Richard above), but that was taking too much time and forcing the throat plate up, so I put it in the proper direction. Indeed, the plate has proper screws to hold both ends in place, but out of extra caution I positioned the fence over the plate on one side and then used a clamped board on the other. Besides holding the throat down to counter the rising blade, the board kept the shrapnel from flying all over the place when the blade rose through. I also plugged my vac port. Eventually, I removed the board as soon as I smelt the burning wood so that the blade could more easily complete its course.
Four tips for the community: First, clean the sawdust out of the cabinet and the saw cavity and then keep the motor hatch open to prevent heat (or even fire?). Second, if your crank wheel goes stiff, there might be some metal flakes in the gear works, so have an air hose or small brush on hand. Third, wear a mask, goggles, and ear-protection. Fourth, always READ THE COMMENTS made to any RUclips presentation to complete the lesson .
@@kenhatch83 thank you for your directions. I did exactly that and it worked like a charm! The method shown above was not feeling or sounding right, but I’m glad I saw your comment. Thanks 👍🏽