The amount of thought and detail you’ve put into each of these projects is nothing short of exceptional, thank you! I am one who will build just about anything rather than buy it if I can figure out how it goes together, and your plans make that almost easy!!! I’ll be purchasing a few of your plan sets for sure!!!
My grandfather was a carpenter and wood worker for over 50 years and I have to say even after all the things I learned from that man I still find it interesting how many tips and tricks i pick up from your videos.
I have push sticks. I never need to use that horrendous gripper. The idea of pressing down over the blade with my hands as close to the blade, as the gripper requires, gives me shivers.
coat both sides to make warpage "less likely". That's the part that people never hear, LESS LIKELY. Great video. I was just thinking about making an insert and you video caught my eye and showed me everything I needed to know. Thank You Matthias.
Love the care you take. Even with something a lot of guys see as not important. The varnish the pin all show that you care. It shows the mark of a craftsman
The things you make amaze me. I live in a family of engineers, one software and one aerospace. Your level of enginuity is a gift. Not all things are taught in school. Keep sharing!
Creating a zero clearance table saw insert. step one -- Make sure you have a zero clearance table saw insert. You'l need it for step 3 and 4. No disrespect intended. It just reminded me of a video I saw once when someone was showing people how to make their own anvil and right off the bat he said first you need an anvil. You're the king Matthais. Keep up the fantastic work.
Just my opinion. Whatever works for you. I like your videos and watch them all the time. I have gotten lots of good information from them. No insult was intended.
I'm sure you pay SO much attention to the negative comments and those who have a better way to do anything and everything, but have ZERO videos of their own that help anyone. Yea, I thought so. Keep 'em coming. Great videos, really appreciate the insights you provide.
After seeing this I just replaced my cheap plastic insert which broke with a new one made of Corian. Combined with a basic sled my £100 saw is now capable of turning out good quality joinery. Thanks Matt.
I appreciate and enjoy your very helpful videos Mr Wendel. I began a new job at a Finish Carpentry shop a while back where I am building custom cabinetry, doors, gun racks etc. Your info and advanced technique is very helpful. Thank you.
Matthias as usual awesome video. I think you may have missed your calling building space shuttles.. Your accuracy and dedication to getting something just right always humbles me! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your experience on this. I have wanted to make some zero clearance inserts for a long time, but been afraid of wasting a lot of time, this gives me a lot of confidence!
My used table saw came with an aftermarket zero clearance insert but it was a little chewed up and I like mine to be as close to the saw blade as possible. It fit perfectly, unlike the factory insert, so I was able to use it and a pattern bit with my router to make a new one, so it depends on what you're starting with. I definitely like the idea of the spline in the outer end and will incorporate that into the next insert I make, which will be a 45 degree one. Your 30 degree insert inspired me.
Very clear, concise and calm description/info. Thank you for posting this 3.5 years ago - I just found it tonight for the first time & then subscribed - very well done sir.
I had to show this to my wife. She complains that I put too much thought into things and I should just do it. She says it's because I'm an engineer and what she can do in 30 minutes takes me a day. When you get to the part of taking 5 thousands off, she couldn't believe you used a gauge to determine the distance. YAY! She no longer thinks I over think things (well she does, but has much less to complain about after seeing this.
I especially like it when things that engineers over-think end up not killing me. We need people to do things well and thoroughly, and we have politicians for the other stuff.
I thought it was a bit OTT initially... but I'd measure it with my vernier calipers, then loosen and tap the fence, and then measure again. So it's only a matter of degree, I think.
@@Chris.Davies my father had a cabinet shop in Oregon and his table saw was so precise he never used a jointer. We once picked up once 8-10 foot long 3-4 feet wide 4 inch thick slabs of "curly" maple and we spent about 2 weeks sawing it. There was so much of it we filled a van several times, and it was loaded so heavy it sat on the springs (we only had to move it 1/2 mile). A good table saw in the right hands is an amazing tool He always made his own inserts too.
I have used “ hard board “ as a zero clearance setup for years. I cut certain widths frequently. Each piece has multiple slots. I lay it up against the fence and clamp or blue tape it down and start ripping.😎👍
I've made these inserts as well. I make them out of oak and they really work well. It's a good idea to be putting the little screws in for height adjustment. I'll be doing this tomorrow!!!
Yes, it is in fact. They get tight side to side in the summer, and looser in the winter. Varnish - that slows down humidity changes, but the varnish, even oil based, is not entirely impermeable.
I've also made my own zero clearance inserts and use a variant of your method. I use the table saw slot to determine the correct width,trace the ends and cut them outside the line. For us non-engineers, this is easier. After sanding the ends to fit, they can then be sanded to fit exactly. They're cut out of stock that is thicker than the stock insert. They can then be planed to exactly the thickness needed and I've found that the end pin is not necessary. However, adding it would be a plus and certainly would be compatible with your method.
Very well presented...I like the idea of screwing four srews under the insert in order to adjust its height...mixing and sharing ideas will always be and excitement for me...Bravo!
To level the throat plate you can drill through holes at each screw location and use four short grub screws. This way it's adjustable from the top with the plate in place.
That's some nice work. I haven't replaced my fence to get those sort of tolerances, but I used a piece of hack saw blade as a spring to hold the insert fast, similar to the spring in my original insert.
"I'm gonna take 5 thousandths off"... the fact that he can say that and then do it just shows TRUE SKILL!!!! I envy you kind sir and thanks for the great videos!
HOLY Crudbuckets!! I seriously envy your workshop! having recently come into my first table saw recently, having few other tools i felt good and thought my workshop might finally take shape but you sir, WOW!! i would love to be able to build my own workshop to something half as well equipped and professional as that! If that is in your home and its all your doing my goodness!! Its amazing!
Matthias ... You're the best .... I have learned a lot from you over the past couple years... I Soooo enjoy your videos... and I too am an engineer ... love the details...
I'd like to visit your shop just to look around, and be fascinated even more. Thanks for the really keen ideas some of which I've taken notes on. Just one thing worries me; you're breaking the rule that my manuual training teach insisted upon: must wear and apron, and MUST ROLL UP SLEEVES ABOVE ELBOW !
you know, your videos are very informational in themselves, but I enjoy how your brain works, how you solve problems. admirable. anyway,...enough mushy, just thanks man, thanks.
On my Jet 3 hp saw the first thing I did is drill and tap four holes in the mild steel casting under the factory insert and screw in the levelling screws from the factory insert. If you use the same material, little or no adjustments needs to be made. I like 1/2 mdf. Hot melt can be dabbed to tighten the fit. I did use the router table and factory insert ,just drill a couple holes in the aluminum insert to attach it to your blank. Cheers
To get a better fit for my inserts, I add allen-head set-screws in the sides of the insert. I also made a template that fits my saw very well, and use a pattern bit in my router to cut new inserts. I also use set-screws to adjust the height on some of my inserts. I personally make my inserts from MDF or polycarbonate, as they are more stable and don't tend to move like solid wood will. I also have a nice aluminum insert that uses replaceable lexan strips for the saw kerf area. It's great for odd angles and such, as the lexan strips are cheap and easy to swap out. You could make a similar insert from MDF or lexan with regular woodworking tools.
soon times I just can not figure how am I going to do this . But with your videos and a little practice , Your how is greatly appreciated. thank you. Rick
I liked the video. When running a thin piece against the fence I usually push it clear with my push stick, I haven't had any problems with that. I think I'd use the flush router bit after I'd made a wooden insert that I thought fit well.
I've made quite a few table saw inserts using Corian or other made made counter top scrapes that you can often get for free ! The material is flat and stiff, and won't warp .
Make your first one a precision using your methods they keep to use as a template to make additional ones with your router and bearing cutters. This has worked good for me.
When you're trying to get things accurate, a few thous make all the difference. I realized two 6" long pieces ripped to the same width, when one was flipped, showed different widths at each end. Turns out when measuring between the front and back of my blade and the fence, was a 0.009 discrepancy! A slight adjustment, and now my edges are much more parallel.
It would be interesting to know the actual length of time it took you to accomplish the task in comparison to the length of your instructional video. The students in my class have to do an instructional video as a final project and the time difference is extraordinary. They really appreciate and understand how much detail you go into and how time consuming it is to do it right. Thanks again, Western Michigan Matthias Wandel Fan Club.
@Very Trucker: Use a nylon cutting board for the basic material. Leave it the original thickness. Measure how deep the recess is for the insert and cut the outline of the hole from the backside, leaving a lip the thickness of the recess. I think that you'll find that the stock inserts (should have been two) are actually supported on set screws and that the insert depth is quite a bit more than the metal thickness of the insert.
I think the best woodworkers are those who consider themselves perfectionists, if not engineers. I tend to eyeball things and sneak up on the perfect measurement should I happen to be off a hair. That’s my measurement system, by the way, “a hair, two hairs, three hairs;” not exactly scientific, but still highly accurate. Nice job, Mathias!
Just trace the old insert as described at the beginning. If you need a tighter fit wrap the original inserts edge with tape until it's an exact tight fit and continue.
He stated at the beginning that the reason he proceeded the way he did was the original was not an exact / perfect fit... tape solves that when creating the template. It's rudimentury math used here.
digitalPimple Tape can be used, but why not strive for perfection that doesn't require tape. The higher your skill level, the easier it becomes to build parts that are closer to exact without the use of tape. But of course tape can be used, but over time, tape starts to get nicks, tears, edges roll. I can see his reasoning for making the inserts as precise as possible.
I'm going to go with you. The quick effective solution is tape it first then rout it. If its too tight remove some tape and pass it over again. If you want the mental stimuli then go for the other way I suppose.
I was thinking: wrap your original insert with tape until it fits or is just oversized. Then use a pattern bit. Finally sand down the new insert until it's perfect
Nice inserts, great thought using splines on the ends. For drawing the shape, how about draw a 34 x 9.6 rectangle and use compass set to 4.8 to mark the radius center from each end. One 34 measurement, one compass set, so both radius are exactly the same, rather than 3 measured points on the tape measure plus another compass 4.8 offset.
great video!! you make it all seem so easy but the trick is being well set up. you answered a lot of questions I had and saw some great ideas. Keep on rocking your a superstar!!
Dear Matthias, since I found your movies on youtube I could not stop thinking about how much I like working with wood, please show me that Tool-I need to start? congratulations for your work! great greetings from Argentina
I use the router a method to copy my throat plate once I get one that's perfect sized, but I tweaked the undersized ones by just adding masking tape until they fit perfectly tightly. Recently I started adding small wood splitters into the end, so that I don't need to install my metal splitter. Birchply and MDF have both worked well for years. When they wear out/get widened slots, I've tried filling w/ epoxy or pva & sawdust; somewhat crude looking results; next time I'll clamp face to scrap of glass for a smoother surface. I wish you'd invent / video an overhead Table saw dust collector like (or better than) the one SawStop has.
Nice Video Matthias.. I need to make myself up a few of these for my early 70s Craftsman table saw, It's square in the front & round in the back 3 3/4" x 12" x .950" thick, That's the problem too thin to be wood, I'm gonna try a polymer from scraps of an old refrigerator.. I could also use aluminium & a 7 1/4" metal blade to cut the slot.. Thanks for the ideas.. Gary/Hk
On the angle cut at 7:51, it looks like you lower the blade, return the blade angle to zero degrees, and then run the blade up to make a clearance cut. Can you explain this? Is it intended to allow clearance for a 10” blade when fully lowered (at any angle)?
I have a short story to tell you! So yesterday, September the 12th 2013, I walked outside to check my mail to find a BIG box on my porch, I live in a the suburb, and my car has been stolen once and it has been broken into once but its a decent area, On this box, about 4 1/2', 3', 2', I found words saying "skilsaw" yep sure enough a table saw had been sitting at my door for who knows how long, I didnt know this was coming, now I am watching all your table saw videos to add to my TS accessories
I've found the best material for inserts is solid surface. You can pick up scraps from cabinet shops for next to nothing, or DuPont sells samples for a small cost.
Threaded set screws for height adjustment with wood threads are available, drill am tap. For the nose of the plate to keep from tilting, I epoxy a flat washer to the under side of the from radius.
i've never seen you use a riving knife. the thought of cutting something that close to the blade scares the crap out of me! but you obviously have much better control over your saw than I do. sweet plates enjoyed the vid
Tape wrapped around to build it up was my first thought. Another would be to make a master out of MDF or a couple of pieces of 1/4" masonite laminated together for thickness. You could use the tape method or his method to make your master. You would then use this master as your template to make all future inserts from. Since mdf and Masonite are very dimensionally stable the master should retain it's dimensions much better than plywood or solid wood. Give it a thin coat of poly for additional moisture protection. UMHW would probably be the best material but most people have some scrap mdf laying around. I would also drill and countersink screw holes where your leveler screws are going to go to attach the blank to the master. This will be easier to separate than carpet tape and you will already have your holes for your leveler screws when you are done. I would also use plywood to make my inserts. Solid wood is too dimensionally unstable.
I got to say that I love every video you have made. You inspire and educate with every single one. You even throw in the goofs you have made which makes me laugh. Like the air raid siren. That could have done some damage. Pretty scary! Anyways, love the videos and please keep them coming. Thanks :)
Again - lots of math - turn the original upside down, and trace. The thickness of your pencil will make it just a bit too big, sand to fit - which you have to do anyway. Math is fun, more fun to be done, yes? For stiffness, glue two 1/4 thick pieces together in the first place, grain at90deg - then cut the inserts out of that. Simpler. Keep at it, Mathias - love all your great work!
7yrs later and still helping people with this video. Thanks so much for your meticulous attention to detail.
The amount of thought and detail you’ve put into each of these projects is nothing short of exceptional, thank you! I am one who will build just about anything rather than buy it if I can figure out how it goes together, and your plans make that almost easy!!! I’ll be purchasing a few of your plan sets for sure!!!
Matthais. I’m an old journeyman carpenter and you did a great job of explaining all the details on how to do it right. Thank you
Matthias, your videos are models of how to do it. Clear, concise, efficient, accurate, and realistic.
My grandfather was a carpenter and wood worker for over 50 years and I have to say even after all the things I learned from that man I still find it interesting how many tips and tricks i pick up from your videos.
I have push sticks. I never need to use that horrendous gripper. The idea of pressing down over the blade with my hands as close to the blade, as the gripper requires, gives me shivers.
coat both sides to make warpage "less likely". That's the part that people never hear, LESS LIKELY. Great video. I was just thinking about making an insert and you video caught my eye and showed me everything I needed to know. Thank You Matthias.
Love the care you take. Even with something a lot of guys see as not important. The varnish the pin all show that you care. It shows the mark of a craftsman
The things you make amaze me. I live in a family of engineers, one software and one aerospace. Your level of enginuity is a gift. Not all things are taught in school. Keep sharing!
Creating a zero clearance table saw insert.
step one -- Make sure you have a zero clearance table saw insert. You'l need it for step 3 and 4.
No disrespect intended. It just reminded me of a video I saw once when someone was showing people how to make their own anvil and right off the bat he said first you need an anvil.
You're the king Matthais. Keep up the fantastic work.
You often check what the other guys have done, but then you go the extra couple of steps. Always great to watch. Keep on doing what you are doing.
Just my opinion. Whatever works for you. I like your videos and watch them all the time. I have gotten lots of good information from them. No insult was intended.
I'm sure you pay SO much attention to the negative comments and those who have a better way to do anything and everything, but have ZERO videos of their own that help anyone. Yea, I thought so. Keep 'em coming. Great videos, really appreciate the insights you provide.
just because some people do not make videos does not mean they are wrong critiquing someone elses
After seeing this I just replaced my cheap plastic insert which broke with a new one made of Corian. Combined with a basic sled my £100 saw is now capable of turning out good quality joinery. Thanks Matt.
I appreciate and enjoy your very helpful videos Mr Wendel.
I began a new job at a Finish Carpentry shop a while back where I am building custom cabinetry, doors, gun racks etc.
Your info and advanced technique is very helpful.
Thank you.
Matthias as usual awesome video. I think you may have missed your calling building space shuttles.. Your accuracy and dedication to getting something just right always humbles me! Thanks for the video.
He just builds them out of wood.
Thanks for your experience on this. I have wanted to make some zero clearance inserts for a long time, but been afraid of wasting a lot of time, this gives me a lot of confidence!
My used table saw came with an aftermarket zero clearance insert but it was a little chewed up and I like mine to be as close to the saw blade as possible. It fit perfectly, unlike the factory insert, so I was able to use it and a pattern bit with my router to make a new one, so it depends on what you're starting with.
I definitely like the idea of the spline in the outer end and will incorporate that into the next insert I make, which will be a 45 degree one. Your 30 degree insert inspired me.
Very clear, concise and calm description/info. Thank you for posting this 3.5 years ago - I just found it tonight for the first time & then subscribed - very well done sir.
I am just now putting a woodworking shop together. You are an excellent teacher. Thanks.
Just upgraded my table saw and I had the same problem but didn't even think to do what you have showed me, many thanks.
I had to show this to my wife. She complains that I put too much thought into things and I should just do it. She says it's because I'm an engineer and what she can do in 30 minutes takes me a day. When you get to the part of taking 5 thousands off, she couldn't believe you used a gauge to determine the distance. YAY! She no longer thinks I over think things (well she does, but has much less to complain about after seeing this.
5 thou is very very picky when it comes to wood work! I had to use tolerances of 2 thou when I was overhauling engines, but this is excessive lol!
Exactly. I thought his techniques shouted #EngineeredToMakeItBetter (This from the son of a Mechanical Engineer.) I know how they think.
I especially like it when things that engineers over-think end up not killing me. We need people to do things well and thoroughly, and we have politicians for the other stuff.
I thought it was a bit OTT initially... but I'd measure it with my vernier calipers, then loosen and tap the fence, and then measure again. So it's only a matter of degree, I think.
@@Chris.Davies my father had a cabinet shop in Oregon and his table saw was so precise he never used a jointer. We once picked up once 8-10 foot long 3-4 feet wide 4 inch thick slabs of "curly" maple and we spent about 2 weeks sawing it. There was so much of it we filled a van several times, and it was loaded so heavy it sat on the springs (we only had to move it 1/2 mile). A good table saw in the right hands is an amazing tool He always made his own inserts too.
Outstanding! You cover every detail clearly and efficiently without any BS. Much appreciated.
I have used “ hard board “ as a zero clearance setup for years. I cut certain widths frequently. Each piece has multiple slots. I lay it up against the fence and clamp or blue tape it down and start ripping.😎👍
Best zero clearence throat plate instruction video on RUclips! Thank You!!
I've made these inserts as well. I make them out of oak and they really work well. It's a good idea to be putting the little screws in for height adjustment. I'll be doing this tomorrow!!!
I would have never imagined how versatile a saw table was until I watched your videos. Great work as always!
Very well done video on how to make a zero clearance insert bevel insert. Lots of tricks that turn out a quality product.
Yes, it is in fact. They get tight side to side in the summer, and looser in the winter.
Varnish - that slows down humidity changes, but the varnish, even oil based, is not entirely impermeable.
I've also made my own zero clearance inserts and use a variant of your method.
I use the table saw slot to determine the correct width,trace the ends and cut them outside the line. For us non-engineers, this is easier. After sanding the ends to fit, they can then be sanded to fit exactly.
They're cut out of stock that is thicker than the stock insert. They can then be planed to exactly the thickness needed and I've found that the end pin is not necessary. However, adding it would be a plus and certainly would be compatible with your method.
Matt: Thank you for sharing your expertise with all of us! I will never be on your level but, I learn what I can. Thanks again.
Very well presented...I like the idea of screwing four srews under the insert in order to adjust its height...mixing and sharing ideas will always be and excitement for me...Bravo!
Great video! Very professional, informative and no annoying music. keep up the good work!
"I'm going to take about 5 thou off...."
*unlocks fence
*tap-tap-tap
DONE.
Matthias you rock! Thank you for these vids. Keep them coming!
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Like the Ave Tappy Tap-Tap. But they probably don't know each other as in Ave vocabulary, wood is called "Dead trees carcass"
To level the throat plate you can drill through holes at each screw location and use four short grub screws. This way it's adjustable from the top with the plate in place.
That's some nice work. I haven't replaced my fence to get those sort of tolerances, but I used a piece of hack saw blade as a spring to hold the insert fast, similar to the spring in my original insert.
Matthias your videos are very clear and professional. Very good job, thanks!
+deepthroat212 With a name like yours I think it would be more a job you are used to.
+Dave Brittain nahh sounds like this is your man, go get him tiger! ;) remember good girls swallow ;)
+deepthroat212 dafuq
deepthroat212 not always, I got me a really really good girl, she don't every time!
"I'm gonna take 5 thousandths off"... the fact that he can say that and then do it just shows TRUE SKILL!!!! I envy you kind sir and thanks for the great videos!
HOLY Crudbuckets!! I seriously envy your workshop! having recently come into my first table saw recently, having few other tools i felt good and thought my workshop might finally take shape but you sir, WOW!! i would love to be able to build my own workshop to something half as well equipped and professional as that!
If that is in your home and its all your doing my goodness!! Its amazing!
Matthias ... You're the best .... I have learned a lot from you over the past couple years... I Soooo enjoy your videos... and I too am an engineer ... love the details...
I use whichever jig is the most suitable for the job.
I'd like to visit your shop just to look around, and be fascinated even more. Thanks for the really keen ideas some of which I've taken notes on. Just one thing worries me; you're breaking the rule that my manuual training teach insisted upon: must wear and apron, and MUST ROLL UP SLEEVES ABOVE ELBOW !
This guy is such a baddass. I've watched several of his videos in the past.
Excellent problem solving, safety considerations and technique. A clean, sharp presentation. Thank you for the ideas.
Hi Matthias. Excellent attention to detail, as always. Thanks for the lesson.
you know, your videos are very informational in themselves, but I enjoy how your brain works, how you solve problems. admirable. anyway,...enough mushy, just thanks man, thanks.
On my Jet 3 hp saw the first thing I did is drill and tap four holes in the mild steel casting under the factory insert and screw in the levelling screws from the factory insert. If you use the same material, little or no adjustments needs to be made. I like 1/2 mdf. Hot melt can be dabbed to tighten the fit. I did use the router table and factory insert ,just drill a couple holes in the aluminum insert to attach it to your blank. Cheers
To get a better fit for my inserts, I add allen-head set-screws in the sides of the insert. I also made a template that fits my saw very well, and use a pattern bit in my router to cut new inserts. I also use set-screws to adjust the height on some of my inserts.
I personally make my inserts from MDF or polycarbonate, as they are more stable and don't tend to move like solid wood will. I also have a nice aluminum insert that uses replaceable lexan strips for the saw kerf area. It's great for odd angles and such, as the lexan strips are cheap and easy to swap out.
You could make a similar insert from MDF or lexan with regular woodworking tools.
soon times I just can not figure how am I going to do this . But with your videos and a little practice , Your how is greatly appreciated. thank you. Rick
Great video Matthais, I always enjoy watching them over and over.
I have never replied to a vid. You are very good and show people how to be safe (pin placement) good luck with future vids!
I liked the video. When running a thin piece against the fence I usually push it clear with my push stick, I haven't had any problems with that. I think I'd use the flush router bit after I'd made a wooden insert that I thought fit well.
Well, if drawing two semicircles is that hard to do, take the extra time fussing with the tape.
That’s right, why doesn’t OP make a better how-to channel then 😂
@Troy Hendrickson did you … just type that comment out IRL? How embarrassing for you.
Ingenious - I will be using your thoughtful method to help refurb a second-hand delta table saw - Thank you very much.
Gracias a ti he aprendido muchos truchos ,que he puesto en practica , saludos desde la frontera de tijuana., thanks a lot
I've made quite a few table saw inserts using Corian or other made made counter top scrapes that you can often get for free ! The material is flat and stiff, and won't warp .
Awesome. I was just thinking I need to make new inserts and I came across this video. Another great project by one of my favorites.
All finishes will protect against those. As to which one to use - that depends on a lot of factors.
Make your first one a precision using your methods they keep to use as a template to make additional ones with your router and bearing cutters. This has worked good for me.
This is full of smart little tricks that I would never even think of!
what would happen if you putted tape around the original insert to get rid of the play and then use the flush trim bit?
+Roger Prida You could do that if you wanted to. I couldn't be bothered.
weqwe
That's also what I would do!
Wood working to thousands of an inch , I am impressed I am an Instrument Maker, so very close your work!!!
When you're trying to get things accurate, a few thous make all the difference. I realized two 6" long pieces ripped to the same width, when one was flipped, showed different widths at each end. Turns out when measuring between the front and back of my blade and the fence, was a 0.009 discrepancy! A slight adjustment, and now my edges are much more parallel.
Great video, thank you! I made an insert for my saw this weekend (mostly) following your procedure and it went very well.
It's still only birch (not maple) and half the plys go in the wrong direction. So it will sag at least twice as much as solid maple.
It would be interesting to know the actual length of time it took you to accomplish the task in comparison to the length of your instructional video. The students in my class have to do an instructional video as a final project and the time difference is extraordinary. They really appreciate and understand how much detail you go into and how time consuming it is to do it right. Thanks again, Western Michigan Matthias Wandel Fan Club.
@Very Trucker: Use a nylon cutting board for the basic material. Leave it the original thickness. Measure how deep the recess is for the insert and cut the outline of the hole from the backside, leaving a lip the thickness of the recess.
I think that you'll find that the stock inserts (should have been two) are actually supported on set screws and that the insert depth is quite a bit more than the metal thickness of the insert.
Thanks for the info, I'm sure that there are tons of RUclips descriptions on saw inserts but yours is exceptional. Thanks again.
R
Thank you Matthias, another fine video with clear explanations.
You really are a wizard with wood, Matthias!
I think the best woodworkers are those who consider themselves perfectionists, if not engineers. I tend to eyeball things and sneak up on the perfect measurement should I happen to be off a hair. That’s my measurement system, by the way, “a hair, two hairs, three hairs;” not exactly scientific, but still highly accurate. Nice job, Mathias!
Just trace the old insert as described at the beginning. If you need a tighter fit wrap the original inserts edge with tape until it's an exact tight fit and continue.
He stated at the beginning that the reason he proceeded the way he did was the original was not an exact / perfect fit... tape solves that when creating the template. It's rudimentury math used here.
digitalPimple Tape can be used, but why not strive for perfection that doesn't require tape. The higher your skill level, the easier it becomes to build parts that are closer to exact without the use of tape. But of course tape can be used, but over time, tape starts to get nicks, tears, edges roll. I can see his reasoning for making the inserts as precise as possible.
I'm going to go with you. The quick effective solution is tape it first then rout it. If its too tight remove some tape and pass it over again. If you want the mental stimuli then go for the other way I suppose.
I was thinking: wrap your original insert with tape until it fits or is just oversized. Then use a pattern bit. Finally sand down the new insert until it's perfect
Gotta say I agree, especially since the other piece is machined the semi-circles are likely going to be more exact as well.
Nice inserts, great thought using splines on the ends. For drawing the shape, how about draw a 34 x 9.6 rectangle and use compass set to 4.8 to mark the radius center from each end. One 34 measurement, one compass set, so both radius are exactly the same, rather than 3 measured points on the tape measure plus another compass 4.8 offset.
I don't have a thickness sander, I needed to cut more anyway, and I only wasted 5 mm of wood that was scrap anyway.
Матиасу спасибо и респект! Пользуюсь его приспособами и поминаю добрым словом! Афигительный чувак, всем рекомендую на него подписаться
great video!! you make it all seem so easy but the trick is being well set up. you answered a lot of questions I had and saw some great ideas. Keep on rocking your a superstar!!
Emil address is on my website, linked from the video.
Dear Matthias, since I found your movies on youtube I could not stop thinking about how much I like working with wood, please show me that Tool-I need to start?
congratulations for your work!
great greetings from Argentina
I use the router a method to copy my throat plate once I get one that's perfect sized, but I tweaked the undersized ones by just adding masking tape until they fit perfectly tightly. Recently I started adding small wood splitters into the end, so that I don't need to install my metal splitter. Birchply and MDF have both worked well for years. When they wear out/get widened slots, I've tried filling w/ epoxy or pva & sawdust; somewhat crude looking results; next time I'll clamp face to scrap of glass for a smoother surface. I wish you'd invent / video an overhead Table saw dust collector like (or better than) the one SawStop has.
Nice Video Matthias..
I need to make myself up a few of these for my early 70s Craftsman table saw, It's square in the front & round in the back 3 3/4" x 12" x .950" thick, That's the problem too thin to be wood, I'm gonna try a polymer from scraps of an old refrigerator..
I could also use aluminium & a 7 1/4" metal blade to cut the slot..
Thanks for the ideas..
Gary/Hk
On the angle cut at 7:51, it looks like you lower the blade, return the blade angle to zero degrees, and then run the blade up to make a clearance cut. Can you explain this? Is it intended to allow clearance for a 10” blade when fully lowered (at any angle)?
I don't understand. How do you make rip cuts on a miter saw?
I have a short story to tell you!
So yesterday, September the 12th 2013, I walked outside to check my mail to find a BIG box on my porch, I live in a the suburb, and my car has been stolen once and it has been broken into once but its a decent area, On this box, about 4 1/2', 3', 2', I found words saying "skilsaw" yep sure enough a table saw had been sitting at my door for who knows how long, I didnt know this was coming, now I am watching all your table saw videos to add to my TS accessories
I've found the best material for inserts is solid surface. You can pick up scraps from cabinet shops for next to nothing, or DuPont sells samples for a small cost.
HDPE has one tenth the stiffness of pine, which in turn has half the stiffness of the maple I was using. Way too floppy.
Christopher Ingrassia personally I would choose phenolic material.
Love Rick Moranis....and your channel 😅😅
I agree with you. The tape method is easier and faster with similar results. Mathias’ method works well if you lost your insert for some reason.
Threaded set screws for height adjustment with wood threads are available, drill am tap. For the nose of the plate to keep from tilting, I epoxy a flat washer to the under side of the from radius.
i've never seen you use a riving knife. the thought of cutting something that close to the blade scares the crap out of me! but you obviously have much better control over your saw than I do. sweet plates enjoyed the vid
Excellent work Mathias. MY old saw could sure use your methods:)
Tape wrapped around to build it up was my first thought. Another would be to make a master out of MDF or a couple of pieces of 1/4" masonite laminated together for thickness. You could use the tape method or his method to make your master. You would then use this master as your template to make all future inserts from. Since mdf and Masonite are very dimensionally stable the master should retain it's dimensions much better than plywood or solid wood. Give it a thin coat of poly for additional moisture protection. UMHW would probably be the best material but most people have some scrap mdf laying around. I would also drill and countersink screw holes where your leveler screws are going to go to attach the blank to the master. This will be easier to separate than carpet tape and you will already have your holes for your leveler screws when you are done. I would also use plywood to make my inserts. Solid wood is too dimensionally unstable.
You gave me some very good pointers for making table saw inserts. Thanks..
Great, thorough, video with a lot of good ideas. Thanks.
No thoughts on that. My saw doesn't take a riving knife.
As always very informative and educational. Thank You!
Very good video, thanks for sharing Matthias,Greetings from Spain
Muy buen video, gracias por compartir Matthias, saludos desde España
you are so good at making stuff it's crazy. Good job!
I got to say that I love every video you have made. You inspire and educate with every single one. You even throw in the goofs you have made which makes me laugh. Like the air raid siren. That could have done some damage. Pretty scary! Anyways, love the videos and please keep them coming. Thanks :)
Again - lots of math - turn the original upside down, and trace. The thickness of your pencil will make it just a bit too big, sand to fit - which you have to do anyway. Math is fun, more fun to be done, yes? For stiffness, glue two 1/4 thick pieces together in the first place, grain at90deg - then cut the inserts out of that. Simpler. Keep at it, Mathias - love all your great work!
netacadman I think the point of math is precision, no? Use math, do it once.
It's called plywood, and I mention why I didn't use it in the video.
Search for "beginner" on the search box on the front page of the website.