Thank you for showing how to do this! I was able to get a successful sliding joint on my first attempt. I plan to to use this for an expanding table I am going to build.
What you gave me is GOLDEN. I have been working on a scheme to make pullout trays in my lower cabinets. Already bought the bearing slides. The issue was that I wanted to make an upper tray adjustable without spending $150 per cabinet for a kit. The idea was to use 9 hinges and a recessed threaded knob to lock the boards into three shelf pin holes, fr CTR and bk. With a sliding set up, I can eliminate ALL of the hinges. Mount the shelf pins and rails to the boards and lock it all up with a knurled bolt from the side. I even took an idea from the Machinists and bought a 7 PC knurling tool on Amazon. I have a DeWalt parts bin with just 1/4-20 hardware. Knurling 9 bolts, screwing in a wood threaded nut and I have a means to make it work. Yeah, ALL of this, from your one tip. Thanks for sharing on RUclips. I'm a disabled veteran and I have been planning my kitchen remodel for a month. When I get the cut list finished, we can begin.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 I've seen a few people here that have a number of sponsors. And that's of if they are producing new content. But some have more TV commercial than helping people. I've even noticed a trend where some of them actually copy each other. A different Take on the same idea. It could be scripted. Now, I have seen the sliding dovetail as a parlor trick and made into a cube. That one has no real purpose. It's a shelf warmer ready to collect dust. I saw not only a novel idea. It's also a solution to my cabinet tray problem. You reinvented the wheel.
Yes, inspirational...Will try a test run to get it down and then figure a way to get it in a next project...I have been considering creating a sliding piece under my sink for the little waste can...Would probably need two slides...Thank you...Very helpful.
This is the best video I’ve seen thanks for sharing it it’s late at night but I may go out to my shop and try this ,I’ll be watching your videos for sure now .
Has anyone tried this on a really long slide? We had a table when I was growing up that used something like this to make several of these slides nested to make a 4 foot table able to add leaves to go to about 12 ft for big dinners. I was far to young to do more than think how cool it was that it was all wood and worked so well. My budding engineer mind was all for taking it apart to see how it working. My mom thought I should leave grandma's table in one piece for Thanksgiving. I never was able to play with it again. I would love to make one now. I think the 50 years I have thought about it may be enough that I am now ready to try. I am pretty much sure I was 4 that year and wow is that memory vivid
This is great. I had a couple of thoughts regarding the female portion of the dovetail: I don't think you need to mark it out at all. The depth of the cut is already set from when you finished the male portion. So if you start cutting from the middle and turn (not flip) the board 180° after each cut then you can work your way outward. This has two advantages: the first one is that the female dovetail will be cut precisely into the middle of the board, secondly you only have to move the fence half as many times.
Thanks for taking the time to make *and* edit the video. I have to make a box that slides on and off and was going to go with a french cleat option. But this is way more secure. Thanks!
Well done. If you cut another set into the male part, used slightly thinner boards and added some stops, you could make full extension drawer slides. Great idea, buddy. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing the process. I have made sliding dovetail joints, on a much smaller scale, using a router. The operation of the joint you made would be smoother if you clean up the flat portion of the female piece with a chisel or router plane. Certainly paste wax is a great benefit, even after cleaning out the female portion.
Awesome walk-through of the process and the paste wax is a golden oldie solution. Thank you for showing us how it's done. You also seem like a really cool guy.
Literally refreshing a chest of drawers right now from my wifes child hood, meaning its old as dirt. All the drawer slides are falling apart and this popped up in my recommended vids, awesome thanks man!
That will work well with some drawers for an all wood entry table that I'm working on. Now to figure out how to mount them without glue or screws. Thanks for the video.
This is probably obvious to everyone, but your choice of 30 degrees is completely arbitrary. Since you're using the same angle on both pieces, you could have chosen 45 or 37.43 and it still would have worked out.
Thanks for these awesome videos. I’m trying to build a fairly basic shelf, except I need it to fit inside of a closet with a small door, so I need to be able to assemble (and hopefully disassemble it when needed) easily inside the closet. Also, I have limited tools, I do have a miter saw, a circular power saw, some chisels that I’m terrible at using. I’m considering getting a router, as they are fairly affordable and don’t take up much storage space, not sure what bits I’d need (and bits seem pricey). I’m trying to avoid buying a table saw, as I don’t have the space for it, and do as few cuts as possible, so I’ll be getting pre-cut 2x4s for the legs (I think) and pre-cut shelves (48x15.75). Since I want it to be easy to assemble and disassemble, I’m trying to avoid screws and angle brackets as much as I can. I’ve been researching wood joints. Thinking something like a half lap or dovetail to prevent the frame that would hold the shelf from sliding in or out of the legs. Also considering trying to do dadoes in the main legs for the shelves to go into, but I’d still need something to make the whole thing stay together, and to stop the shelves from sliding out. Or maybe just a mortise & tenon with some soft of a peg, to stop it from sliding out for the long way part of the frame, and maybe halved lap joint for the short way to hold it all together. Hopefully this makes sense, any suggestions for joints and tools needed?
As some already mentioned this is great for only inaccurate modules/assemblies, as pointed out in the description. Otherwise much tighter tolerances/play would be needed. The good news is the same idea can be applied, perhaps even with a circular saw with a bit of careful patience?
That was an awesome video! I looked all morning for this information. There are a lot of videos showing routers being used, but yours is the only one I saw using the table saw. You wouldn't happen to have a video showing how you mount them, would you? Liked, shared and subscribed.
Too kool !!! This will work great for a table saw out feed table as an adjustable prop i can see maybe using dowels as pins spaced real close together???? Thanks
Hello, thank you for explaining your great videos so clearly, and thank you once again for sharing your ideas. I am Cuban and I only speak a little English, please forgive me if I have any spelling mistakes.
Great instructional video. Question: How do I accomplish the 30 degree angle on my table saw blade if I don’t have a pocket meter. Thank you for sharing
Thank you for showing how to do this! I was able to get a successful sliding joint on my first attempt. I plan to to use this for an expanding table I am going to build.
Your work is second to none may God continue to bless you and your family outstanding job
What you gave me is GOLDEN. I have been working on a scheme to make pullout trays in my lower cabinets. Already bought the bearing slides.
The issue was that I wanted to make an upper tray adjustable without spending $150 per cabinet for a kit. The idea was to use 9 hinges and a recessed threaded knob to lock the boards into three shelf pin holes, fr CTR and bk.
With a sliding set up, I can eliminate ALL of the hinges. Mount the shelf pins and rails to the boards and lock it all up with a knurled bolt from the side. I even took an idea from the Machinists and bought a 7 PC knurling tool on Amazon. I have a DeWalt parts bin with just 1/4-20 hardware. Knurling 9 bolts, screwing in a wood threaded nut and I have a means to make it work.
Yeah, ALL of this, from your one tip. Thanks for sharing on RUclips. I'm a disabled veteran and I have been planning my kitchen remodel for a month. When I get the cut list finished, we can begin.
That’s awesome! Thank you so much for the comment, it’s always nice to hear from you guys especially when the videos help.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 I've seen a few people here that have a number of sponsors. And that's of if they are producing new content.
But some have more TV commercial than helping people. I've even noticed a trend where some of them actually copy each other. A different Take on the same idea. It could be scripted. Now, I have seen the sliding dovetail as a parlor trick and made into a cube.
That one has no real purpose. It's a shelf warmer ready to collect dust. I saw not only a novel idea. It's also a solution to my cabinet tray problem. You reinvented the wheel.
Yes, inspirational...Will try a test run to get it down and then figure a way to get it in a next project...I have been considering creating a sliding piece under my sink for the little waste can...Would probably need two slides...Thank you...Very helpful.
This is the best video I’ve seen thanks for sharing it it’s late at night but I may go out to my shop and try this ,I’ll be watching your videos for sure now .
I just made these today. My first time making them. This was a great video as a sanity check so I don't mess up ! Thanks!
Ron said perfect woodworker !!!
Thank you much! Have been pondering how to get a slide on an awkward shaped drawer. This worked perfect!
I had looked for months to find this and I just came across it, I'm saving it and subscribing to your channel. Thanks
Great demonstration! I think I would cut my samples several feet long and then crosscut them for multiple drawers.
Has anyone tried this on a really long slide? We had a table when I was growing up that used something like this to make several of these slides nested to make a 4 foot table able to add leaves to go to about 12 ft for big dinners. I was far to young to do more than think how cool it was that it was all wood and worked so well. My budding engineer mind was all for taking it apart to see how it working. My mom thought I should leave grandma's table in one piece for Thanksgiving. I never was able to play with it again. I would love to make one now. I think the 50 years I have thought about it may be enough that I am now ready to try. I am pretty much sure I was 4 that year and wow is that memory vivid
I am now 72 and still have one fond memory from when I was 4. That memory is of playing with my dog.
This is great. I had a couple of thoughts regarding the female portion of the dovetail: I don't think you need to mark it out at all. The depth of the cut is already set from when you finished the male portion. So if you start cutting from the middle and turn (not flip) the board 180° after each cut then you can work your way outward. This has two advantages: the first one is that the female dovetail will be cut precisely into the middle of the board, secondly you only have to move the fence half as many times.
I agree but trust me...as you get older you'll realize that orientation marks help.
@@thegreyoutdoors7860 Agreed. Age has some advantages, but eyesight usually ain't one of them. Taking afternoon naps guilt free is..
I was looking for exactly this. Thanks for making this video so simple to follow.
Thanks for taking the time to make *and* edit the video. I have to make a box that slides on and off and was going to go with a french cleat option. But this is way more secure. Thanks!
Awesome, just what i needed for my secret desk im making! Was gonna use router table but this will work much better on the bigger material
You killed it man, i wrote this before watching. Just liked the idea
Thank you!!
Well done. If you cut another set into the male part, used slightly thinner boards and added some stops, you could make full extension drawer slides. Great idea, buddy. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing the process. I have made sliding dovetail joints, on a much smaller scale, using a router. The operation of the joint you made would be smoother if you clean up the flat portion of the female piece with a chisel or router plane. Certainly paste wax is a great benefit, even after cleaning out the female portion.
Awesome walk-through of the process and the paste wax is a golden oldie solution. Thank you for showing us how it's done. You also seem like a really cool guy.
Looks great slides nice going to try it neat work
awesome, just awesome.. thanks for sharing !!!
Literally refreshing a chest of drawers right now from my wifes child hood, meaning its old as dirt. All the drawer slides are falling apart and this popped up in my recommended vids, awesome thanks man!
Haha that’s awesome! Funny how that works. Sounds like an awesome project to undertake.
You still married two months after calling your wife "old as dirt"? Lol.
@@andrewbriscoe2481 she doesnt read my youtube comments thankfully:)
Great Video, that helped me tremendously!
Awesome clip!
Good video. Please keep posting
That will work well with some drawers for an all wood entry table that I'm working on. Now to figure out how to mount them without glue or screws. Thanks for the video.
Awesome. Thanks for the ideas
Really awesome technique thanks for the video!
Like the idea of miniaturising this and using it as a sliding lid on a box would be very interesting 🤔
Love it, will definitely try this technique out! Thanks for sharing.
Hi
You know, this could be used to make the actual side wall of the drawer, with the slide incorporated into the drawer itself.
Thanks for sharing I think I'll try this option for a few drawers. Just have to figure out a stop system, but have a few ideas.
Excellent video! Thanks
Glad you showed how to do this. These wooden drawer glides cost $20 each at woodworking stores.
It's very beautiful idea thanks for sharing
Not bad at all, thanks for the lessons..
I have used this technique on chopping board ends. It made a nice contrast with Utile and Sycamore.
Very well done!!! Great idea!!!
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls
Brilliant job👍
Very good idea mate first time watching one of your vids but defo subscribed.👍👍
Awesome, I am glad you found my channel!
This is probably obvious to everyone, but your choice of 30 degrees is completely arbitrary. Since you're using the same angle on both pieces, you could have chosen 45 or 37.43 and it still would have worked out.
So satisfying to watch that slide back and forth haha
Haha thanks Marcus!
@@blacktimbercompany5716 wow man almost a million views on this one! Congrats!
Well done, and thanks for posting! I had to rebuild a friend's broken dresser and replace the dovetail sliders , and this is exactly what I needed.
This is very cool. Subbed.
Thanks for these awesome videos. I’m trying to build a fairly basic shelf, except I need it to fit inside of a closet with a small door, so I need to be able to assemble (and hopefully disassemble it when needed) easily inside the closet. Also, I have limited tools, I do have a miter saw, a circular power saw, some chisels that I’m terrible at using. I’m considering getting a router, as they are fairly affordable and don’t take up much storage space, not sure what bits I’d need (and bits seem pricey). I’m trying to avoid buying a table saw, as I don’t have the space for it, and do as few cuts as possible, so I’ll be getting pre-cut 2x4s for the legs (I think) and pre-cut shelves (48x15.75). Since I want it to be easy to assemble and disassemble, I’m trying to avoid screws and angle brackets as much as I can. I’ve been researching wood joints. Thinking something like a half lap or dovetail to prevent the frame that would hold the shelf from sliding in or out of the legs. Also considering trying to do dadoes in the main legs for the shelves to go into, but I’d still need something to make the whole thing stay together, and to stop the shelves from sliding out. Or maybe just a mortise & tenon with some soft of a peg, to stop it from sliding out for the long way part of the frame, and maybe halved lap joint for the short way to hold it all together. Hopefully this makes sense, any suggestions for joints and tools needed?
Nice Job!
nice work, big hug from portugal
Спасибо за идею, интересное решение!
Very nice, great explanation. You made this seem simple.
Good job.
Well done video, straight forward instructions, video and audio were very clear.
That’s great to hear, I really appreciate the feedback.
As some already mentioned this is great for only inaccurate modules/assemblies, as pointed out in the description. Otherwise much tighter tolerances/play would be needed. The good news is the same idea can be applied, perhaps even with a circular saw with a bit of careful patience?
Not necessarily with the judicious use of wax methinks
Very well explained, just subscribed! Thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you! I appreciate that.
very nice tip...congratulation from Brazil
Great job...
very clever! thx
Very nice
Well done body!!!👍Thanks for share your ideas.
Appreciate that!
awesome work
Very nice work!
Amaaaaazing
Awesome. Should of watched your video yesterday before I ordered ball bearing slides on Ebay. Lol.
M 7
very good bro
I’m a finish carpenter, i have never done this , just in case very good idea , new sub here 👌🏽
That was an awesome video! I looked all morning for this information. There are a lot of videos showing routers being used, but yours is the only one I saw using the table saw. You wouldn't happen to have a video showing how you mount them, would you? Liked, shared and subscribed.
Thank you so much, unfortunately I don’t have a video showing that, but I’ll have to make one. Thanks so much for your support!
Good technique! Thank you so much!
Very good
Very cool!
Too kool !!! This will work great for a table saw out feed table as an adjustable prop i can see maybe using dowels as pins spaced real close together???? Thanks
Heck yeah, great idea!
Learn something thank you mate
Great job buddy. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for stopping by! 🙏
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, you get a new subscriber.
Thanks for your support! 😀
If seen these on many of the older furniture I have redone. So far I haven't had to replace them. If I do now I know how too. Thank you!!
That’s great, glad it was helpful!
Super helpful video!! Thank you for sharing 🙏🏻
Thank you!
Hello, thank you for explaining your great videos so clearly, and thank you once again for sharing your ideas. I am Cuban and I only speak a little English, please forgive me if I have any spelling mistakes.
So nice
It was purrrrfecto
Haha I appreciate that!
So cool and very good
Where were you back in the late 80's ? I would love to have you as a shop teacher. 👍👍👍👍👍😃🇺🇸
Haha still just a baby then! I really appreciate that but I still have so. Ugh to learn!
Nicely done!
Nicely done! You have a new subscriber to your channel!
Thanks for the support, means a lot!
Cool project, can’t wait to see more! Good explanation.
So smart man
Thank you for sharing. This is awesome !!
Fantastic. Very qood, Brasil
very nice
Nicely done
Really cool, thanks for making it look easy.
You truly have great woodworking skills. thank you
Very smart work great idea but its tufff
It's very good working 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Much appreciated.great lesson
Great job.
Good idea.
Ước gì mình cũng có được những trang thiết bị tuyệt vời như thế nhỉ.!
Used this for sections of bookcases with sliding sections for hidden hidey holes. Works fantastic for the weight distribution.
That sounds intriguing. Can you post pictures?
Great instructional video. Question: How do I accomplish the 30 degree angle on my table saw blade if I don’t have a pocket meter. Thank you for sharing
Awesome. I never thought to do that. So cool of an idea. Thank you for the video.
Very nice, would never have thought to do this, have a project it would be perfect for. Thank you.
Smart guy thanks .