Steve Ramsey is the VERY FIRST RUclipsr you should watch if you are considering upping your woodworking game. I had only ever done construction-grade projects when I started watching his videos almost a decade ago. Now I get to work in a real woodworking shop, I teach kids classes almost every week (virtually now thanks to covid), and everyone in my extended family and neighborhood comes to me to fix anything made of wood (Thanks Steve!) Watch this man and grow your interest and skills.
And doesnt have any shame in showing his mistakes and how to work through it. I feel like Steve was one of the first youtubers I saw who actively showcased making mistakes.
Just an idea... when I just need it for a cut or two I lower my blade, cover the insert with blue tape then turn on the blade and raise it through the tape... Lasts for a few cuts. Nice to see the Micro jig back in action...
I've seen a tape that's made for that. 731woodworks, I think is his page or site or whatever there called on here. Had it on his miter saw. Sold on Amazon.
@@natalieisagirlnow Not all tape is created equal. I wouldn’t use duct tape to mask off trim before painting the walls. And I wouldn’t use blue painters tape to seal the joints in heat ducts, or instead of strapping tape to seal up a box.
@@BobBob-eh5sb You shouldn't really use duct tape to seal up the joints in heat ducts either. It doesn't last forever and doesn't maintain the seal, despite its name and original intended use.
@@cdlong28 was just using that as an example of different tapes for different jobs. That no one tape is universal. I know there are other ways of sealing duct work, but I believe that was the original intended use for duct tape.
Steve, before you cut the curved edges... Raise the blade the push the piece forward the desired amount to make room for the riving knife. this way you can cut the kerf for the angled blade with knife. Then cut the front and back curved parts accordingly. Also I've installed a smaller diameter blade in the saw to start the initial cut of the kerf and then switch back to the regular size blade to complete the cut. Keep up the great vids!!! Love them all and thumbs up every one.
I joined a Delta 36-725 Facebook group and the people there know and do all sorts of modifications to this saw... i support small business and bought 3 plates made from mdf and were made on a CNC, cause i was part of the group i got a discount and waa happy to buy mine... great tutorial however if i need a special plate and dont have the time to wait
I’m glad that you showed using your plate with the standard riving knife. I’ve seen a number of videos about making these, and they all focused on adding a homemade riving knife insert (thin strip of wood) to the zero clearance plate. I was starting to worry that there was some reason you couldn’t use the regular installed riving knife. Also, when I cut the blade slot in mine, I left the standard plate in, lined my fence up with the very edge of the plate, and ran the zero clearance piece through upside down. I ran it most of the way through, and the cut was long enough for my riving knife.
It was actually after 2 years of watching Steves vids that I bought my first table saw, if it's entertaining watch it, if you learn something along the way, then all the better 😉
@@AllenReinecke people can woodwork without a table saw. In Europe their shops revolve around a band saw. Table saws are more of an American thing. A real amateur can even afford to just use hand saws. Which if you have unlimited time isn't really limiting. Although some operations can be a bit tedious.
I use a thin kerf 7-1/4" circular saw blade to start the cut, then switch back to the 10" blade. Also use a router with a trim bit to shape the insert identical to a previously made tight-fitting insert.
Great video Steve. Finally a vid for making an insert plate for older, smaller table saws, like my very old Makita jobsite saw with its teeny tiny plate. Your workshop and moderately-priced tools are similar to mine. Only difference is that I need to convert my workshop back into a garage when I'm done. That's why I l can relate to your videos. THANKS!!!
Steve, thank you for including the riving knife slot. Many other woodworkers skip this step or even clam they can't use a riving knife with their zero clearance place. I'm a total amateur and I managed to extend the slot, and next time I'll do it smarter and safer that I did the first time. Now I finally realized you can use a jig saw to extend the slot- it can be slightly wonky because it's for the knife, not the blade.
I’ve never even thought I wood be making anything out of wood, I purchased a table saw to cut flooring for are home and after I was finished I thought that over the years I’ve purchased a lot different tools such as a miter saw, jig saw and so on. I thought I would give this hobby a try found Steve on RUclips purchased his course. All I can say is thank you Steve! Your courses are made for the first timers easy to understand I’m making things I thought I never do and people that come over ask me where I bought that bench or that table and I tell them that I made them and then I get wow! Can you make me one. Again thank you Steve. This video helped me I can’t find a dado plate for my saw and now I will be able to make one.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. I've always been a bit intimidated on making my own zero clearance insert. After watching this video a few times I followed your stubs and successfully made my own on the first try. Thanks again and keep the good stuff coming.
I've gone back to this video several times. Now I have a new saw and need it again. THANK YOU for posting it; it has been extremely helpful! You are wonderful and your work in generating this content is very appreciated.
The way I cut my kerf, is to double stick tape the new insert right on top of the factory insert then just raise the blade up and it cuts the slot. Then remove and insert zci and it is good to go. Maybe this will help someone.
This is the best demonstration I've found on RUclips so far when it comes to creating these. I especially appreciate the use of simple tools to finish the job.
I like the recommendation of the Masonite - I'll probably switch to that! Been using 1/2" plywood to make my plates but it's a pain to shape the underside because it's too thick.
I've been meaning to make one of these forever. I just had a project that I needed to complete in a hurry and this would have really come in handy. Maybe this weekend...
Hi Steve, bought an ozito 2000w 254mm(10") table saw. The masonite and strengthener method worked great to provide me with a zero clearance insert. This is a VERY cheap saw, but with some fettling, and one of your designed crosscut sleds, it producers square material every time. Thanks heaps for your videos, love getting inspiration from them. Kevan from Western Australia
One other note regarding constant use of a zero clearance insert plate... If you have dust collection on your table saw, it generally sucks (er, doesn't suck, I guess) with an insert like this since there is very little space for the dust to be pulled down into a saw. To alleviate this, you can get over-the-blade dust collection, or just live with it and be prepared for sawdust shooting back at you.
I really appreciate that Steve doesn’t assume everyone has a bandsaw, router table, spindle sander, etc., and showed us how to do it with the most basic power tools.
Hey Steve. Would you consider making one of these for your rigid portable saw with the rectangle insert? They are hard to come by after market and videos are few and far between.
Hey Steve! Hope you're doing well! Just wanna let you know I love your videos and they've been a great help in my wood working game! Keep up the great work!
Steve Ramsey helped get us through the early days of the pandemic. His daily posts were more anticipated than the mail man. Days he missed were like he'd neglected us. Thanks Steve Ramsey. NOW, dont go getting all "mercenary " and abandon the core fans....
My insert is metal and rectangular with small, slightly rounded corners. I just got another metal one from the manufacturer and sanded all the paint from around the blade slot. I filled the slot with bondo and let it cure for a few days. I ran the blade up, shut off the saw, ran the blade down, swapped the insert end for end like Steve did, and made room for the riving knife, finishing the cut with a jigsaw and a throw together jig for the last 1/4" I needed. I sanded the bondo flat with the rest of the insert. Then I painted it and was good to go from there. At the most, I figure I'll have to re-bondo and re-paint in a few years, if at all.
I can’t believe it! I have spent the last two days doing this exact project! The new anti kickback kit I got won’t work on a non ZCP. It wasn’t as easy though. It took almost every tool in the garage to get right... planer, jointer, bench and palm sanders, band saw, bench vice... and a bucket of hand tools. It also took a few tries to get it right. And I almost had it right until I screwed the holes about 2mm off. Dang it! Also did one for the chop saw. Tom- Cary, NC
To be able to use the riving knife with 45 angle, you could cut the first part like you did, then put back your normal insert and aline the fence with the kurf, put the 45 insert on the blade, hold it down then cur like a normal piece of wood. Sorry for my poor english
Great to be watching your videos Steve, I've been away from woodworking for several years. I watched your channel back when Laney Shaughnessy and some guys bought you the table saw and Jay Bates was building everything with pockethole screws and Keek was the Tiktok of the day! Anyway great video perfect timing as I'm in need of a few zero clearance inserts for my saw as I start to outfit my workshop! Cheers
Hey Steve! Great vid! About 9months ago, I bought a new table saw, ( A significant upgrade from what I had) and sold the old one. I had a couple projects that I’d planned. These required lap joints. The saw company was out of stock for the dado throat plate. What to do? What would Steve do? Well, I went to my firewood pile, pulled a couple good sized chunks of seasoned Red Oak. Long story short, I sawed both down...one of which yielded a 2” x 4”x 16” block. Then cut it down to 1/2” thick slab, trimmed it to size and, voila, it fit! I put the dado set on and cut the slot. Dressed it up a little with sandpaper and polyurethane and put it to work. Works great and zero clearance to boot. Thanks to your videos, I was able to think the solution out and do it! Thanks again and have a great week! Stay safe...
The only thing I have to say is... I’m JEALOUS!! You’re wearing a T-shirt! It’s 18 F in NYC and we just got hit with almost two feet of snow a few days ago! I had to take everything Liquid, stains, finishes,etc.. out of my shop and bring it into the house because everything was freezing!Lol! Just thought I’d vent! Good stuff as usual Steve!
With you there! My workshop is unheated and unpowered! I wrap up. Power up the generator. Cut my pieces. Bring everything into the house to warm up. Then glue up at the kitchen table! Much easier in summer!
Ah the reinforced center is genius! My entry level table saw has a thin insert plate too and because of that have been hesitant to create a zero clearance one. Thanks for the tip!
I purchased the Ridgid R4513 you recommended a couple of years ago. Nightmare to do a zero clearance with plywood. Plate is hyper thin. Wonder if you still have that saw :-). Never thought of using Masonite. Three thumbs up. Will try it over the weekend. Kind regards from Montreal.
The timing on this couldn't be more prefect. I had to go with a low end table saw and I just got some dados but finding a dado insert is a huge pain and expensive, and the thickness of mine is only 1/8". Thanks for all the great content!
I just got a dado stack and I wanted to do a quarter quarter quarter drawer and I realized my existing throat plate wasn't going to work, so this video is exactly what I needed. Thank you for your excellent content.
Think I've got some videos to watch. Not long got a table saw so plates and jigs are on a long list of things to make. Nicely described which means easy for this old head to follow
I made one out of clear acrylic. It's pretty cool to be able to see down inside the table saw while you're using it. One downside to zero clearance inserts is that much more of the saw dust remains above the table rather than being pulled down towards the motor where my shop vac attachment can suck it out! Although, in a way, I guess that is an advantage as well since it keeps more of the dust off of the motor.
Steve, Excellent tutorial! I'm glad you shown us how you make the 45 and dado, since they are different and trickier than the zero clearance plate... If I made the dado insert, knowing my luck, I'd want a finger hole so I won't take a chance to poke my knuckles on the blades... but I can also see how that's personal preference.
i love this type of content, great video Steve! as im working through the weekend workshop course, it's great to add bonus content like this to help us newbies get our shops fully setup. a zero clearance plate is really something i've been thinking about and could have guessed how to make it, but this video showed me i would have ran into issues with cutting the slot. i wouldnt have thought about it until i went to do it and im probably not smart enough to figure it out :) Thanks again Steve!
When I had wooden floors installed I kept the offcuts. Looks like they will be a great material. I am using a thicker material and then routing out where the screws are to get the correct thickness. If the blade does not retract far enough to start the cut it is also possible to use one of the blades from a Dado set.
I put aluminum tape on the edges of the throat plate so it had zero play in the opening on the saw. Then i doubled sided tape it to mdf and cut out a bunch on the router table. Made 6 perfect fitting fillers in about 10 minutes total.
If you take ½" plywood and just rabbet the edges then cut your curve. Also you can use a small piece of wood sticking up glued in and cut flush for a rithing knife. But I've watched you videos for a long time. You've taught me alot, hope cobra and bubbles are doing well. Please keep doing videos, it's actually something I look forward to. It helps keep me busy lol.
Thank you Steve. I had purchased a saw awhile after I started the WW course and the saw I purchased said it had a dado insert that you can order, bit it has not been available. And most I the how to make videos they had higher in table saws than mind. I will try to make an insert today or tomorrow. Once done with that I will purchase a dado blade set to do my next projects for my WW course. From the course I did learn to do dado cuts with a regular blade. Using an actual dado I hope will make it quicker. Again thanks for the video.
Not that you need to, but if you want to extend the beveled kerf to allow the riving knife, here's how. Install the standard insert and tilt the blade. Fit the beveled insert over the blade, and bring the top fence into contact and lock it down. Lower the blade, move the insert, clamp it, and raise the spinning blade to extend the cut.
I bought my table saw in 2015 and both insert plates broke because the were cast pot metal. Fortunately, I was working on a project that need a zero clearance insert and have not gone back. A sharp blade makes a world of difference and the old blades do not go to waste because the steel is wonderful for making other tools. Thanks
Thank you Steve, this was a very helpful lesson. I just had to use a dado stack and did so with no plate at all. Talk about intimidation! I made one cut and said Hell no... Thanks again.
I'd love to make a zero clearance, but I can't figure out how to make it work. I have the Ridgid Table saw from the tool list and I'm not sure if it's possible.
I have the older, cheaper saw and I used plexiglass for a zero insert plate that worked fine until it didn't. I then switched to quarter inch plywood but now I plan to remake them using masonite.
I use a high-density plastic called King StarBoard made by King Plastic which I picked up from a local plastic shop. I got like a 2' x 3' x 1/2" piece for like $25.00. I've had it for years but I've been able to make several of these inserts. It comes in handy in the shop for sure! You can plane it, route it, cut it, sand it (but it's quite resilient), drill it, tap it, etc. Highly recommend it for jigs and inserts. You can get it on Amazon but I found it cheaper at my local plastics shop.
The piece of plastic you bought is only worth $0.90 as scrap. So someone made a good profit on that drop. Anything less than a full sheet is a drop! You gotta learn how to haggle. heh
@@1pcfred Win some, lose some I guess. Interesting that on Amazon, it's similarly priced but for an even smaller sheet at $30! Buying in bulk must be the way to go but I don't have much room to store something like that. But thanks for the tip! Will know better next time!
Steve Ramsey is the VERY FIRST RUclipsr you should watch if you are considering upping your woodworking game. I had only ever done construction-grade projects when I started watching his videos almost a decade ago. Now I get to work in a real woodworking shop, I teach kids classes almost every week (virtually now thanks to covid), and everyone in my extended family and neighborhood comes to me to fix anything made of wood (Thanks Steve!)
Watch this man and grow your interest and skills.
Great humour too!
And doesnt have any shame in showing his mistakes and how to work through it. I feel like Steve was one of the first youtubers I saw who actively showcased making mistakes.
@@ryanchapman2636 Spencley Design good that way too
I like that he keeps making videos in garage. Instead of moving to a warehouse sized shop, full of high dollar tools.
I just started wood working this last summer and I agree 100%. I have learned so much from his channel.
Just an idea... when I just need it for a cut or two I lower my blade, cover the insert with blue tape then turn on the blade and raise it through the tape... Lasts for a few cuts. Nice to see the Micro jig back in action...
I've seen a tape that's made for that. 731woodworks, I think is his page or site or whatever there called on here. Had it on his miter saw. Sold on Amazon.
@@BobBob-eh5sb tape is tape, not worth paying extra for "special" tape
@@natalieisagirlnow Not all tape is created equal. I wouldn’t use duct tape to mask off trim before painting the walls. And I wouldn’t use blue painters tape to seal the joints in heat ducts, or instead of strapping tape to seal up a box.
@@BobBob-eh5sb You shouldn't really use duct tape to seal up the joints in heat ducts either. It doesn't last forever and doesn't maintain the seal, despite its name and original intended use.
@@cdlong28 was just using that as an example of different tapes for different jobs. That no one tape is universal. I know there are other ways of sealing duct work, but I believe that was the original intended use for duct tape.
Oh my, I never thought to layer-up the center section. I've struggled with trying to carve down thicker material. Thanks for that tip!
I have done the same thing. I like Steve’s method better.
Love the simplicity with which the information is delivered. Thank you Steve!
Steve, before you cut the curved edges... Raise the blade the push the piece forward the desired amount to make room for the riving knife. this way you can cut the kerf for the angled blade with knife. Then cut the front and back curved parts accordingly. Also I've installed a smaller diameter blade in the saw to start the initial cut of the kerf and then switch back to the regular size blade to complete the cut. Keep up the great vids!!! Love them all and thumbs up every one.
I joined a Delta 36-725 Facebook group and the people there know and do all sorts of modifications to this saw... i support small business and bought 3 plates made from mdf and were made on a CNC, cause i was part of the group i got a discount and waa happy to buy mine... great tutorial however if i need a special plate and dont have the time to wait
I’m glad that you showed using your plate with the standard riving knife. I’ve seen a number of videos about making these, and they all focused on adding a homemade riving knife insert (thin strip of wood) to the zero clearance plate. I was starting to worry that there was some reason you couldn’t use the regular installed riving knife.
Also, when I cut the blade slot in mine, I left the standard plate in, lined my fence up with the very edge of the plate, and ran the zero clearance piece through upside down. I ran it most of the way through, and the cut was long enough for my riving knife.
I don’t even own a table saw, still watched the whole video!
It was actually after 2 years of watching Steves vids that I bought my first table saw, if it's entertaining watch it, if you learn something along the way, then all the better 😉
That's because of us table saw hoarders. There's just not enough to go around.
You are so missing out!
That sucks, I'm sorry you don't have a table saw.
@@AllenReinecke people can woodwork without a table saw. In Europe their shops revolve around a band saw. Table saws are more of an American thing. A real amateur can even afford to just use hand saws. Which if you have unlimited time isn't really limiting. Although some operations can be a bit tedious.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Seconded.
Thirded
Fourthed 😊
Fifthed?
Steve, when I make mine I use one of my 8" outside dado blades can do everything in one shot (for making the first thru cut). For my needs.
I put in a smaller blade, circular saw to make the first cut.
I used a single dado blade to make the first cut on mine
@@melance This works if you use full kerf blades, but if you use a think kerf, the dado blade will cut slightly wider than you want.
I use a thin kerf 7-1/4" circular saw blade to start the cut, then switch back to the 10" blade. Also use a router with a trim bit to shape the insert identical to a previously made tight-fitting insert.
@@kennnva551 This is the best method, in my opinion. 👍🏼
Agreed
Great video Steve. Finally a vid for making an insert plate for older, smaller table saws, like my very old Makita jobsite saw with its teeny tiny plate. Your workshop and moderately-priced tools are similar to mine. Only difference is that I need to convert my workshop back into a garage when I'm done. That's why I l can relate to your videos. THANKS!!!
Let’s hear it for old Makita job site saws!! I bought mine second hand in um … 1981. 😳
@@edmetzger3617 Yeah, same vintage.
The always-helpful Steve strikes again!!!! Now I know what I'm working on this weekend!
Steve, thank you for including the riving knife slot. Many other woodworkers skip this step or even clam they can't use a riving knife with their zero clearance place. I'm a total amateur and I managed to extend the slot, and next time I'll do it smarter and safer that I did the first time. Now I finally realized you can use a jig saw to extend the slot- it can be slightly wonky because it's for the knife, not the blade.
I’ve never even thought I wood be making anything out of wood, I purchased a table saw to cut flooring for are home and after I was finished I thought that over the years I’ve purchased a lot different tools such as a miter saw, jig saw and so on. I thought I would give this hobby a try found Steve on RUclips purchased his course. All I can say is thank you Steve! Your courses are made for the first timers easy to understand I’m making things I thought I never do and people that come over ask me where I bought that bench or that table and I tell them that I made them and then I get wow! Can you make me one. Again thank you Steve. This video helped me I can’t find a dado plate for my saw and now I will be able to make one.
I'll definitely need to make one of these zero-clearance inserts. Thanks for the quick tutorial.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. I've always been a bit intimidated on making my own zero clearance insert. After watching this video a few times I followed your stubs and successfully made my own on the first try. Thanks again and keep the good stuff coming.
I've gone back to this video several times. Now I have a new saw and need it again. THANK YOU for posting it; it has been extremely helpful! You are wonderful and your work in generating this content is very appreciated.
Welcome back,, Old Steve". :) Love the podcast. Keep doing it your way. It is the best way. Greetings from Denmark.
Lol thanks Andrei!
Thanks! This is a video I requested a while back, right after I got my WWMM suggested table saw! Awesome!
The way I cut my kerf, is to double stick tape the new insert right on top of the factory insert then just raise the blade up and it cuts the slot. Then remove and insert zci and it is good to go. Maybe this will help someone.
Great idea.
This is the best demonstration I've found on RUclips so far when it comes to creating these. I especially appreciate the use of simple tools to finish the job.
I like the recommendation of the Masonite - I'll probably switch to that! Been using 1/2" plywood to make my plates but it's a pain to shape the underside because it's too thick.
I've been meaning to make one of these forever. I just had a project that I needed to complete in a hurry and this would have really come in handy. Maybe this weekend...
Thank you Steve for this tip! I watched a few videos about how to make an insert plate. Yours was most certainly the best.
Hi Steve, bought an ozito 2000w 254mm(10") table saw. The masonite and strengthener method worked great to provide me with a zero clearance insert. This is a VERY cheap saw, but with some fettling, and one of your designed crosscut sleds, it producers square material every time. Thanks heaps for your videos, love getting inspiration from them. Kevan from Western Australia
One other note regarding constant use of a zero clearance insert plate... If you have dust collection on your table saw, it generally sucks (er, doesn't suck, I guess) with an insert like this since there is very little space for the dust to be pulled down into a saw. To alleviate this, you can get over-the-blade dust collection, or just live with it and be prepared for sawdust shooting back at you.
To cut the rounded ends, it is easier to use the original throat plate as the guide and use a flush trim bit. Perfect size without measuring.
I really appreciate that Steve doesn’t assume everyone has a bandsaw, router table, spindle sander, etc., and showed us how to do it with the most basic power tools.
This is a great way to do it, but I appreciate the reminder that it's possible without a router.
Thank you SO MUCH for posting this! I will definitely be making a few of these! Also I lol'd at "that flippy-floppy thing". Perfectly descriptive.
Hey Steve. Would you consider making one of these for your rigid portable saw with the rectangle insert? They are hard to come by after market and videos are few and far between.
Always a great presentation of top craftsmanship.
Hey Steve! Hope you're doing well! Just wanna let you know I love your videos and they've been a great help in my wood working game!
Keep up the great work!
Steve Ramsey helped get us through the early days of the pandemic. His daily posts were more anticipated than the mail man. Days he missed were like he'd neglected us. Thanks Steve Ramsey. NOW, dont go getting all "mercenary " and abandon the core fans....
what does he owe you?
My insert is metal and rectangular with small, slightly rounded corners. I just got another metal one from the manufacturer and sanded all the paint from around the blade slot. I filled the slot with bondo and let it cure for a few days. I ran the blade up, shut off the saw, ran the blade down, swapped the insert end for end like Steve did, and made room for the riving knife, finishing the cut with a jigsaw and a throw together jig for the last 1/4" I needed. I sanded the bondo flat with the rest of the insert. Then I painted it and was good to go from there. At the most, I figure I'll have to re-bondo and re-paint in a few years, if at all.
Steve have you made these plates for your Ridgid? Doesnt look possible due to how they attach.
I can’t believe it! I have spent the last two days doing this exact project! The new anti kickback kit I got won’t work on a non ZCP. It wasn’t as easy though. It took almost every tool in the garage to get right... planer, jointer, bench and palm sanders, band saw, bench vice... and a bucket of hand tools. It also took a few tries to get it right. And I almost had it right until I screwed the holes about 2mm off. Dang it! Also did one for the chop saw. Tom- Cary, NC
Another great video. Love it man, thanks for all of the help from over the years.
Thanks Steve! Always a nice start of the day listening and watching you at work.
Another excellent tutorial. Your's is the go-to channel for anyone looking to learn the craft. I'm still trying.😃
To be able to use the riving knife with 45 angle, you could cut the first part like you did, then put back your normal insert and aline the fence with the kurf, put the 45 insert on the blade, hold it down then cur like a normal piece of wood. Sorry for my poor english
Steve. Is. The. Man. Great video. You are in your element doing these types of videos!
👍👍👍👍👍😁✌🏻🇺🇸
Perfect timing Steve. I need to make one for my Dado blades.
I've been putting this off for a while now, this gave me some confidence in the process. Better get to it!
Great to be watching your videos Steve, I've been away from woodworking for several years. I watched your channel back when Laney Shaughnessy and some guys bought you the table saw and Jay Bates was building everything with pockethole screws and Keek was the Tiktok of the day!
Anyway great video perfect timing as I'm in need of a few zero clearance inserts for my saw as I start to outfit my workshop!
Cheers
Hey Steve! Great vid! About 9months ago, I bought a new table saw, ( A significant upgrade from what I had) and sold the old one. I had a couple projects that I’d planned. These required lap joints. The saw company was out of stock for the dado throat plate. What to do? What would Steve do? Well, I went to my firewood pile, pulled a couple good sized chunks of seasoned Red Oak. Long story short, I sawed both down...one of which yielded a 2” x 4”x 16” block. Then cut it down to 1/2” thick slab, trimmed it to size and, voila, it fit! I put the dado set on and cut the slot. Dressed it up a little with sandpaper and polyurethane and put it to work. Works great and zero clearance to boot. Thanks to your videos, I was able to think the solution out and do it! Thanks again and have a great week! Stay safe...
The only thing I have to say is... I’m JEALOUS!! You’re wearing a T-shirt! It’s 18 F in NYC and we just got hit with almost two feet of snow a few days ago! I had to take everything Liquid, stains, finishes,etc.. out of my shop and bring it into the house because everything was freezing!Lol! Just thought I’d vent! Good stuff as usual Steve!
With you there! My workshop is unheated and unpowered! I wrap up. Power up the generator. Cut my pieces. Bring everything into the house to warm up. Then glue up at the kitchen table! Much easier in summer!
you covered all the aspects, nothing left to fall through the cracks
What kind of dark magic is this, i was thinking of making one and watching your old one last night.
GET OUT OF MY HEAD.
Thanks Steve! Need this as I finally got my first table saw and dado blades but the dado plate is on back order. Now, on with the woodworking!
Ah the reinforced center is genius! My entry level table saw has a thin insert plate too and because of that have been hesitant to create a zero clearance one. Thanks for the tip!
Excellent! I have considered making one but have been unsure of the best method. Thank you Steve!
I purchased the Ridgid R4513 you recommended a couple of years ago. Nightmare to do a zero clearance with plywood. Plate is hyper thin. Wonder if you still have that saw :-). Never thought of using Masonite. Three thumbs up. Will try it over the weekend. Kind regards from Montreal.
Great video Steve, thanks very much! So nice to see one that makes allowance for the riving knife!!
Steve I've got that same saw thank you very much this is a huge help
Good on you making room for the riving knife
The timing on this couldn't be more prefect. I had to go with a low end table saw and I just got some dados but finding a dado insert is a huge pain and expensive, and the thickness of mine is only 1/8". Thanks for all the great content!
I just got a dado stack and I wanted to do a quarter quarter quarter drawer and I realized my existing throat plate wasn't going to work, so this video is exactly what I needed. Thank you for your excellent content.
Think I've got some videos to watch. Not long got a table saw so plates and jigs are on a long list of things to make.
Nicely described which means easy for this old head to follow
I was just having this problem with my stacked dados today. I have an older
model table saw this will be perfect! Thanks gain
I made one out of clear acrylic. It's pretty cool to be able to see down inside the table saw while you're using it.
One downside to zero clearance inserts is that much more of the saw dust remains above the table rather than being pulled down towards the motor where my shop vac attachment can suck it out! Although, in a way, I guess that is an advantage as well since it keeps more of the dust off of the motor.
Thank you for a very well presented, interesting and really informative video.
Take care
Sam
It may be overkill, but I like to make sure the back of the insert can't lift up by adding something to hook inside the saw there.
Very helpful, I will make me some next week.. Thanks
I literally just made a new ZCI last night! Stay out of my head, Steve!!! :)
Thank you thank you!! This video is exactly what I need to improve my table saw
Same here, I need a dado insert
I've been meaning to make these and this is the simplest way I've seen. Thanks!
Steve, Excellent tutorial! I'm glad you shown us how you make the 45 and dado, since they are different and trickier than the zero clearance plate... If I made the dado insert, knowing my luck, I'd want a finger hole so I won't take a chance to poke my knuckles on the blades... but I can also see how that's personal preference.
Very cool video. Zero clearance inserts are absolutely important to have. I use my micro splitters in mine.
Great video. Very out of the box thinking.
Omg I was seriously about to email you asking how you made one of these insert plates for the Dado blades!!! Thank you for being awesome as always!
i love this type of content, great video Steve! as im working through the weekend workshop course, it's great to add bonus content like this to help us newbies get our shops fully setup. a zero clearance plate is really something i've been thinking about and could have guessed how to make it, but this video showed me i would have ran into issues with cutting the slot. i wouldnt have thought about it until i went to do it and im probably not smart enough to figure it out :) Thanks again Steve!
Thanks Steve, greetings from Holland. I love watching your RUclips :)
When I had wooden floors installed I kept the offcuts. Looks like they will be a great material.
I am using a thicker material and then routing out where the screws are to get the correct thickness.
If the blade does not retract far enough to start the cut it is also possible to use one of the blades from a Dado set.
I put aluminum tape on the edges of the throat plate so it had zero play in the opening on the saw. Then i doubled sided tape it to mdf and cut out a bunch on the router table. Made 6 perfect fitting fillers in about 10 minutes total.
I've been waiting for you to make this video. I was on the fence about paying for an insert plate. I'll be making a few very soon.
If you take ½" plywood and just rabbet the edges then cut your curve. Also you can use a small piece of wood sticking up glued in and cut flush for a rithing knife. But I've watched you videos for a long time. You've taught me alot, hope cobra and bubbles are doing well. Please keep doing videos, it's actually something I look forward to. It helps keep me busy lol.
Thank you Steve. I had purchased a saw awhile after I started the WW course and the saw I purchased said it had a dado insert that you can order, bit it has not been available. And most I the how to make videos they had higher in table saws than mind. I will try to make an insert today or tomorrow. Once done with that I will purchase a dado blade set to do my next projects for my WW course. From the course I did learn to do dado cuts with a regular blade. Using an actual dado I hope will make it quicker. Again thanks for the video.
Hi, Steve. Useful project for the shop. Thank you for sharing.
You could extend the slot with your jigsaw for the knife.
Thank you for good tip. I notice the saw mark on the fence haha. Even pros have those mistake.
Fantastic tips, Steve! 😃
Thanks a lot!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
This is extremely helpful and the video I was looking for. Thank you!
Thanks. I have a similar thickness throat plate on my saw.
Not that you need to, but if you want to extend the beveled kerf to allow the riving knife, here's how. Install the standard insert and tilt the blade. Fit the beveled insert over the blade, and bring the top fence into contact and lock it down. Lower the blade, move the insert, clamp it, and raise the spinning blade to extend the cut.
I bought my table saw in 2015 and both insert plates broke because the were cast pot metal. Fortunately, I was working on a project that need a zero clearance insert and have not gone back. A sharp blade makes a world of difference and the old blades do not go to waste because the steel is wonderful for making other tools. Thanks
This is very relevant to me, since we have the same saw. Twinsies!
Great advice. I use my cut of bit on router and just use the stock insert plate as a template to cut it to size
Thank you Steve, this was a very helpful lesson. I just had to use a dado stack and did so with no plate at all. Talk about intimidation! I made one cut and said Hell no... Thanks again.
nice hardwares on your wall!
Would you consider making a #shorts video explaining the sawblade marks on your rip fence? Anecdotes like that could be very useful for some viewers.
Thank you for this information.
Great information. Thank you.
Great video, thanks for putting this one out there.
That looks like my Porter Cable 10" Table saw!
I'd love to make a zero clearance, but I can't figure out how to make it work. I have the Ridgid Table saw from the tool list and I'm not sure if it's possible.
Don't use just a jigsaw like I tried. It was a hot mess when I tried. Plenty of hardboard to try again since I grabbed a 2'x4' project panel.
I definitely need to do this on mine.
I have the older, cheaper saw and I used plexiglass for a zero insert plate that worked fine until it didn't. I then switched to quarter inch plywood but now I plan to remake them using masonite.
I use a high-density plastic called King StarBoard made by King Plastic which I picked up from a local plastic shop. I got like a 2' x 3' x 1/2" piece for like $25.00. I've had it for years but I've been able to make several of these inserts. It comes in handy in the shop for sure! You can plane it, route it, cut it, sand it (but it's quite resilient), drill it, tap it, etc. Highly recommend it for jigs and inserts. You can get it on Amazon but I found it cheaper at my local plastics shop.
The piece of plastic you bought is only worth $0.90 as scrap. So someone made a good profit on that drop. Anything less than a full sheet is a drop! You gotta learn how to haggle. heh
@@1pcfred Win some, lose some I guess. Interesting that on Amazon, it's similarly priced but for an even smaller sheet at $30! Buying in bulk must be the way to go but I don't have much room to store something like that. But thanks for the tip! Will know better next time!
You could use a 7 1/2" blade to cut the slot in your zero clearance plate.
Great stuff Stevie! 💕👍