Hey guy... what I saw on another video on RUclips, was a guy doing the body lift, he did not tighten any of the bolts whatsoever, anywhere, until he finished getting those radiator bushings on the very corners. First, what he did, he took a ratchet strap and pulled the body over about an inch to allow a tool to be used underneath. Once you finish that side, he just repeated the process on the other side. Then he completed each side, one at a time., 😆 Hope that helped, even though it's long after you've done it.
Thank you for this video. I’m a girly female that loves working on my own 94 Jeep YJ. This video was definitely helpful with replacing my almost pancake crusted body mounts.
Nice video. Just did a 1" body & engine lift on my YJ. For the 2 radiator supports, there is an easy way to get them installed. You can pry off the old ones without taking the screws out. For the new longer ones - do one side at a time: leave the screw in place, grease up the screw and the upper hole of the new radiator support, put the radiator support in place -hold it in proper location as you lower the the front of body onto the radiator support (I used a floor jack) - the weight of the body will plop the radiator support onto the screw for a secure fit.
Drill a hole in the frame and stick your torx screw driver through the hole to snug up the radiator mount. Spray paint the hole afterwards to prevent oxidation. 😂
Tried to install the Energy suspension new body mounts bushings on my ‘92 YJ ; while on the passenger side installing the new bushings was a breeze on the driver side it will not go high enough to create enough clearance to install the new bushings . It goes about 1.5” then stops. Something prevents the body to move up a little more . It could be the bolt that holds the expansion reservoir coolant which holds the brake lines I think…removing the bolts holding the fan shroud was easy but there is someting else preventing the lifting up the tub for sure…
Good jack..used the same ...jk 2 in body lift...2009 tons of room in engine..fan was electric..only thing was possibly not get body bolts out..but came out...was surprised how much lift was need to get room to install
Hey, had similar issue with the grille supports. I left the stock rubber pieces in and had 1" 'c's' welded onto the frame. Took a 2" square tube and cut it in half for the 1" c. Worked out well. With the motor mount lift, be aware of the motor bracket plates as they tend to crack as well. Replacement can be stock, if you can find one, or aftermarket, ie Brown Dog's. I had to upgrade on a stock 94 2.5l. Those plates cracked at different times too. I used Brown Dog's MML kit and didn't have same issue as you with the stock bracket. You may have to lift both sides same time rather than to tilt engine one side, the go to the other side. With the lift, check the shifters for trans and tcase to make sure they still engage and keep engaged.
I've heard of the 2.5 brackets breaking but not the 4.0. Anything is possible I guess. The 4.0 frame mounts are different than the 2.5 so it is not a direct comparison. The instructions from MORE say to do one side at a time. All shifters still work fine, I drove it around in 4L at the end of the video.
Hey man good videos. I'm rebuilding an 87 YJ. I'm at the point where all I have left is getting the clutch hydraulic system to bleed. Just wondering if you have had to do it or have a video for it????
If he says that he can't tell a difference, keep in mind that the old rubber bushings were degraded from age. That likely means that the poly bushings transmit a fair amount of road noise.
I’m sure other videos answer this but I haven’t gotten to sit down and watch all of them through, but what spring lift did you end up going with? I have a 4.5 inch rubicon express I’m going to be putting on mine.
Curious as to the angle of your valve cover after installation. I'm in the process of doing mine an I swear it way slanted backward. I also have a 1" body lift.
Been meaning to get you an answer for this but kept forgetting- I put my digital angle finder on it today and it is leaned back 6 degrees while parked in the garage.
Yes, you really do need the motor mount lift when doing a body lift because otherwise the fan most likely hits the shroud and also changes the airflow thru radiator.
@@lensman8 Its actually not a necessity to lift the motor with a body lift. You just cut the bottom of the fan shroud or relocate it with self tapping screws. Airflow is still efficient and the fan always spins on a yj. You're not going to have overheating issues.
Hey guy... what I saw on another video on RUclips, was a guy doing the body lift, he did not tighten any of the bolts whatsoever, anywhere, until he finished getting those radiator bushings on the very corners. First, what he did, he took a ratchet strap and pulled the body over about an inch to allow a tool to be used underneath. Once you finish that side, he just repeated the process on the other side. Then he completed each side, one at a time., 😆 Hope that helped, even though it's long after you've done it.
Thank you for this video.
I’m a girly female that loves working on my own 94 Jeep YJ. This video was definitely helpful with replacing my almost pancake crusted body mounts.
Nice video. Just did a 1" body & engine lift on my YJ. For the 2 radiator supports, there is an easy way to get them installed. You can pry off the old ones without taking the screws out. For the new longer ones - do one side at a time: leave the screw in place, grease up the screw and the upper hole of the new radiator support, put the radiator support in place -hold it in proper location as you lower the the front of body onto the radiator support (I used a floor jack) - the weight of the body will plop the radiator support onto the screw for a secure fit.
That was helpful because they did not give me instructions this is the best video ❤on how to do it
Drill a hole in the frame and stick your torx screw driver through the hole to snug up the radiator mount. Spray paint the hole afterwards to prevent oxidation. 😂
Tried to install the Energy suspension new body mounts bushings on my ‘92 YJ ; while on the passenger side installing the new bushings was a breeze on the driver side it will not go high enough to create enough clearance to install the new bushings . It goes about 1.5” then stops. Something prevents the body to move up a little more . It could be the bolt that holds the expansion reservoir coolant which holds the brake lines I think…removing the bolts holding the fan shroud was easy but there is someting else preventing the lifting up the tub for sure…
Good jack..used the same ...jk 2 in body lift...2009 tons of room in engine..fan was electric..only thing was possibly not get body bolts out..but came out...was surprised how much lift was need to get room to install
Very good video! I suppose you could have bent the torx screwdriver 90 degrees.
Hey, had similar issue with the grille supports. I left the stock rubber pieces in and had 1" 'c's' welded onto the frame. Took a 2" square tube and cut it in half for the 1" c. Worked out well.
With the motor mount lift, be aware of the motor bracket plates as they tend to crack as well. Replacement can be stock, if you can find one, or aftermarket, ie Brown Dog's. I had to upgrade on a stock 94 2.5l. Those plates cracked at different times too.
I used Brown Dog's MML kit and didn't have same issue as you with the stock bracket.
You may have to lift both sides same time rather than to tilt engine one side, the go to the other side.
With the lift, check the shifters for trans and tcase to make sure they still engage and keep engaged.
I've heard of the 2.5 brackets breaking but not the 4.0. Anything is possible I guess. The 4.0 frame mounts are different than the 2.5 so it is not a direct comparison. The instructions from MORE say to do one side at a time.
All shifters still work fine, I drove it around in 4L at the end of the video.
Really nice video, thanks!
I am putting 35inch tires on my YJ, any idea how much I will need to lift the body so I have enough clearance etc?
Nice job!
Thanks glad to be done with that one
Hey man good videos. I'm rebuilding an 87 YJ. I'm at the point where all I have left is getting the clutch hydraulic system to bleed. Just wondering if you have had to do it or have a video for it????
Thanks! And no I haven't had to do that, mine is an auto haha.
Curious what you think of the poly bushings. Been between these and using rubber. Great videos as always.
I cant really tell a difference to be honest haha
If he says that he can't tell a difference, keep in mind that the old rubber bushings were degraded from age. That likely means that the poly bushings transmit a fair amount of road noise.
Question where did you buy those knight Guard !?
Have you found a torque spec for the body mount bolts?
The hardest part r most of us s getting the body mount bolts out.
Do you recommend the 1 inch motor mount lift as well? I just bought the 1 inch body lift and going to be installing it soon
Yeah it makes sense to do them both at the same time
I’m sure other videos answer this but I haven’t gotten to sit down and watch all of them through, but what spring lift did you end up going with? I have a 4.5 inch rubicon express I’m going to be putting on mine.
4" Skyjacker springs and boomerang shackles. I have a walkaround video coming out tomorrow with all the details.
If you just do a 1” body lift do you have to raise the motor up and does it cause any shifting issues ?
No you don't have to and it shouldn't cause any shifting issues. You'll just need to move/modify your fan shroud.
@@HardEarnedBacon ok thanks I’ll keep that in mind because I’m wanting to do one for some extra room for my tires
Curious as to the angle of your valve cover after installation. I'm in the process of doing mine an I swear it way slanted backward.
I also have a 1" body lift.
Been meaning to get you an answer for this but kept forgetting- I put my digital angle finder on it today and it is leaned back 6 degrees while parked in the garage.
@@HardEarnedBacon Any adverse effects from the slant? I swear my Weber carb hates this new sloped angle.
@@cuttheloop No it runs the same as always, I don't have a carb though
But if you wanna know what you did wrong lol😢 change your steering shaft bracket must be changed and I believe your transmission mount
They gave me all the wrong bolts I didn’t save any money I should have just bought brand name
Looks like you have an sye and there wasnt really a need to do lifted motor mounts. Your driveline would have been fine.
That wasn't the point.
Yes, you really do need the motor mount lift when doing a body lift because otherwise the fan most likely hits the shroud and also changes the airflow thru radiator.
@@lensman8 Its actually not a necessity to lift the motor with a body lift. You just cut the bottom of the fan shroud or relocate it with self tapping screws. Airflow is still efficient and the fan always spins on a yj. You're not going to have overheating issues.
My body lift kit came with brackets to lower the radiator