Tip if you break off the tip of the pin in the cam gear, heat up a paper clip or other narrow metal object and melt it into the middle and wait a mins for it to cool and should come out with the paper clip
A couple of tips for who Evers interested on valve lash you can run your valve lash starting on tdc 1 on compression or exhaust stroke witch ever u get to tdc if it’s exhaust side run those valves then roll to compression then run those. Another HUGE HELP is take a white paint pen and mark down the rocker arm of the valves u adjust on compression stroke it makes identifying the valves u need to adjust so much quicker and the oil and engine temperature doesn’t effect the paint it’ll stay a long time. Immediately before checking lash on a valve apply pressure to the adjustment side of the rocker arm to push out the oil so u are measureing metal to metal clearance Also check ur lash before adjustment about 1/4 of your valves will still be in spec and check AGAIN AFTER TOURQUEING THE STUDS it makes a major difference!
sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my login password. I love any help you can give me.
@Saint Wesson thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
So using the push pin to find TDC will get you piston #1 at TDC? You pull back the pin, start turning the motor again and once the pin is pushed in a second time #6 piston is at TDC? Or is it better to find/make a mark on the balancer then turn 360 degrees to find piston 6 at TDC?
You need to tighten the jam nuts and recheck the set. They move and tighten the clearance frequently. The true measurement is with the jam nut tight. Loose won't hurt you, tight will. If the jam nut turns the adjustment screw, they go tight. Cummins inline have running mates on the crank. If the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4, 1&6, 5&2 and 3&4 are running mates. If the valves are closed on 3, I set 3 and watch for the valves to close on 6 and set it so on thru the firing order. If you turn an adjuster screw more than 1/3 turn, thats a lot. Better make sure you are on the right hole. You don't really need a pin. I always set mine slightly loose, I set my pumps for 1100 degrees max pyro temp behind the turbo on a hard pull. The extra thousandth of lash is lost with the heat anyway and I like the small amount of extra time the valve gets on the seat to cool. 5 million miles and I've never burnt one. You can seize a piston at 1150. If it gets real quiet, get your leg out of it fast, drop a gear and cool it off.
I noticed you used a socket to tighten the locknut on the rocker arm after setting the lash. Did you attempt to reinsert the feeler gauge after tightening the lock nut ? Usually when you tighten the nut, if you are not holding the adjusting screw with a screwdriver, the screw will turn with the locknut, altering the lash!! Excellent video with good lighting & a very good description of what you were doing & why. Camera work was good & voice articulation was excellent as well. Great job!
I didn't show it on camera that well but I tightened the lock nuts with a wrench while holding a screwdriver through the top. Then afterwards to make sure everything was to spec I used a torque wrench and tested the lash again.
Thanks for your reply . It is satisfying to know that the adjustment screw was being held stationary while the locknut was tightened. My concern was for those who might not appreciate the necessity of holding it. Great Video!
Did you notice any difference with valve train noise? My first gen has 144k and I doubt it’s ever been done haha. Just wondering if this will quiet it up and make it sound less “clanky”’I guess you can call it.
Great video, but what he fails to tell you is that you are actually supposed to release the pin after you've pushed it in before you start adjusting the first set of valves.
The whole TDC thing, and getting your pistons in an exact position really threw me off for a long time. Can't you just use the alternator method and, starting with #1, cycle it until both valves to open and close, then adjust the lash on both valves. Then cycle #2 until both valves open and close, adjust the lash and so on? Seems like it would be a lot easier minus turning over the engine more.
You could do it that way if you wanted but it would take much longer. With this method you get #1 at TDC, do half the valves. Rotate the crank 360 then do the other half. Much quicker.
Geno’s garage sells some reproduction manuals. I bought an owners manual and cd version of the factory service manual... it’s great! Use it any time I run into issues with the truck.
Tip if you break off the tip of the pin in the cam gear, heat up a paper clip or other narrow metal object and melt it into the middle and wait a mins for it to cool and should come out with the paper clip
Just did studs today. Put on milled rockers. Needed to readjust. I've done it countless times. But I can never remember. Thanks for the video.
I’m a truck and coach mechanic tasked with this after lunch. Was very helpful thank you!
A couple of tips for who Evers interested on valve lash you can run your valve lash starting on tdc 1 on compression or exhaust stroke witch ever u get to tdc if it’s exhaust side run those valves then roll to compression then run those. Another HUGE HELP is take a white paint pen and mark down the rocker arm of the valves u adjust on compression stroke it makes identifying the valves u need to adjust so much quicker and the oil and engine temperature doesn’t effect the paint it’ll stay a long time. Immediately before checking lash on a valve apply pressure to the adjustment side of the rocker arm to push out the oil so u are measureing metal to metal clearance Also check ur lash before adjustment about 1/4 of your valves will still be in spec and check AGAIN AFTER TOURQUEING THE STUDS it makes a major difference!
Great video! Everything is clear to see, thoroughly explained, and not overly wordy. Nicely edited good job.
Thanks for watching!
sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my login password. I love any help you can give me.
@Judson Brendan instablaster ;)
@Saint Wesson thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Saint Wesson It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
Great video! Helped me today to do my valve adjustment. Thanks for the vid!
I’m here to help!
Right on, Im doing mine this weekend hopefully or next week!
Did you end up doing it?
So using the push pin to find TDC will get you piston #1 at TDC? You pull back the pin, start turning the motor again and once the pin is pushed in a second time #6 piston is at TDC? Or is it better to find/make a mark on the balancer then turn 360 degrees to find piston 6 at TDC?
The pin will only go in at one spot on the cam. You'll need to mark the crank and rotate 360 to do the opposite valves.
I like how he doesn't skip steps or do "close enough" crap.
Thanks!
You need to tighten the jam nuts and recheck the set. They move and tighten the clearance frequently.
The true measurement is with the jam nut tight.
Loose won't hurt you, tight will. If the jam nut turns the adjustment screw, they go tight.
Cummins inline have running mates on the crank.
If the firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4, 1&6, 5&2 and 3&4 are running mates. If the valves are closed on 3, I set 3 and watch for the valves to close on 6 and set it so on thru the firing order.
If you turn an adjuster screw more than 1/3 turn, thats a lot. Better make sure you are on the right hole.
You don't really need a pin.
I always set mine slightly loose, I set my pumps for 1100 degrees max pyro temp behind the turbo on a hard pull.
The extra thousandth of lash is lost with the heat anyway and I like the small amount of extra time the valve gets on the seat to cool.
5 million miles and I've never burnt one.
You can seize a piston at 1150. If it gets real quiet, get your leg out of it fast, drop a gear and cool it off.
I set my valves at .08 and .018..turbo will come in approx 200 rpm sooner..to loose of valves will slam into the valve seat..see it plenty of times.
I noticed you used a socket to tighten the locknut on the rocker arm after setting the lash. Did you attempt to reinsert the feeler gauge after tightening the lock nut ? Usually when you tighten the nut, if you are not holding the adjusting screw with a screwdriver, the screw will turn with the locknut, altering the lash!! Excellent video with good lighting & a very good description of what you were doing & why. Camera work was good & voice articulation was excellent as well. Great job!
I didn't show it on camera that well but I tightened the lock nuts with a wrench while holding a screwdriver through the top. Then afterwards to make sure everything was to spec I used a torque wrench and tested the lash again.
Thanks for your reply . It is satisfying to know that the adjustment screw was being held stationary while the locknut was tightened. My concern was for those who might not appreciate the necessity of holding it. Great Video!
Sorry sir can I ask you a question? Timing pin what is it work it?
Did you notice any difference with valve train noise? My first gen has 144k and I doubt it’s ever been done haha. Just wondering if this will quiet it up and make it sound less “clanky”’I guess you can call it.
Not a massive difference but if it's never been done it might get rid of a couple of the clankers!
EXCELLENT VIDEO !!!!! Thank you.
Geez man shes a real beauty
Is it the same on gen 2?
12 valve, yes.
Great video, but what he fails to tell you is that you are actually supposed to release the pin after you've pushed it in before you start adjusting the first set of valves.
The whole TDC thing, and getting your pistons in an exact position really threw me off for a long time. Can't you just use the alternator method and, starting with #1, cycle it until both valves to open and close, then adjust the lash on both valves. Then cycle #2 until both valves open and close, adjust the lash and so on? Seems like it would be a lot easier minus turning over the engine more.
You could do it that way if you wanted but it would take much longer. With this method you get #1 at TDC, do half the valves. Rotate the crank 360 then do the other half. Much quicker.
@@OvensGarage Thanks for responding. I guess the whole TDC on compression stroke thing threw me. I'm guessing it's for convenience sake.
where did you get your online service/maintenance manual?
Genos garage! They sell paper copies as well as digital. I like the digital because it’s all bookmarked and you can search specific search terms.
you best recheck the clearance after you tighten the lock nut
Good videos, thanks
Glad to help!
Beautiful truck!
Good job on the video
Thanks!
How can I get a database like yours? Thanks a lot!
Geno’s garage sells some reproduction manuals. I bought an owners manual and cd version of the factory service manual... it’s great! Use it any time I run into issues with the truck.
Which website did you get that off of or is it just a pdf or something?
Geno's garage
Tyler Ovens thanks bud!
Good nite... Is that the original paint?
Truck has been painted once, but original colours!
@@OvensGarage good night
Great vids bud
ur my inspireation bro
Thanks man!
no problem bro yo have talent
12.40v
12v
Pakistan engineering drawing
Pakistan
12v