Awesome video. Other RUclipsrs are annoying talking about give aways and other dumb crap. This video was straight to the point and simplified.. covered everything I needed to know. My 12 valve is caked in oil on the timing cover. Looks like the crank seal is leaking bad. Hopefully not a cracked timing case. After I get some seals ordered I'm tearing into mine. Thanks for the clear video!
One thing for anyone who doesn’t have the tools to take the fan off by the big nut, if you take the 4 bolts off the actual place the fan is mounted to the engine it comes right off easy and makes the job way faster.
Dodge specs for 1995 balancer air gap is 0.049in(1.25mm) min to 0.051in(1.30mm) max, and brass(non-magnetic) feeler gauge must be used to adjust the sensor.
That removable white plastic ring on the seal is there to make it easier to get the seal over the crank when you're reinstalling the cover. Less chance of damaging the seal during installation. When you put the cover back on and shove the seal over the crank, that white plastic ring pushes out part way so you can grab it from the front and pull it out the rest of the way after you've got the cover bolted down.
Right on! Haha yeah unfortunately I figured that out after the fact. Was able to get the cover on no problem though and still doesn't leak to this day. So far.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Just noticed that you already said that in the description, which I failed to "read first" as you suggested. Sorry. Nice video though - straight to the point and "no nonsense," as advertised. Great job.
Thank you for the concise, yet comprehensive video, I wish more youtubers would follow your example. Everything I needed to know with no BS that I didn't care about. Thank you for even saying what size the various fasteners are! Great video, keep up the good work!
I just did the crank seal on a 95 5.9 and the pin was laying in the bottom of the timing cover it is easy enough to make the tab yourself and save the money. Good video
many thanks, just because of you, I just replaced my front seal, and kdp key. Awesome! !! I have a 1998 3500 dually, 4x4, extended cab, 12v. very rare, and I want to keep it forever, and now I feel because of you, I can.
On Amazon: *CUMMINS BARRING TOOL: amzn.to/370T0tp *KDP KIT: amzn.to/2YyI8zn *CRANK SEAL INSTALLER TOOL: amzn.to/2RjkJzE *AIR HAMMER: amzn.to/2S2Aw7r *FAN CLUTCH TOOL: amzn.to/39bmBlk *TIMING CASE(in case yours is cracked): amzn.to/2RZ03Nb *PERMATEX SILICONE: amzn.to/2NF10vH *THREAD LOCKTITE: amzn.to/2ucixT6 Good idea to replace the belt and tensioner while doing the KDP *BELT TENSIONER: amzn.to/382ArGi *DAYCO BELT with AC: amzn.to/2NRB4wW *DAYCO BELT without AC: amzn.to/2OvnDR9 *IDLER PULLEY: amzn.to/36TF5oQ *My Other 2nd Gen Ram Videos: bit.ly/2TLhJLQ
NoNonsenseKnowHow I know this video is old but I’ll still say, the plastic sleeve is for install over the crank. It keeps you from folding the seal over but you were lucky not to have that issue. Also the metal ring is the install tool, you use that to push the seal in and set the depth from the front, how you did it is ok and you even have the seal set in a different spot than factory and that keeps it out of the worn area of the crank.
Good video. The only thing I do differently is I don't take the fan apart. I just take the 3 bolts out. Then turn out the last one with a skinny wrench. Lifts right out with the shroud. Just have to be careful.
Don't use lock tite on the crank bolts..the blots are soft...you'll never get them back out draw lines with a paint pen around them like your drawing a circle right across the bolts and front cover. Find the crank sensor air gap...it matters. Don't use whatever you have laying around for driving your dry seal into your front cover. You don't want to get your engine back together just to find out that you took a shortcut and it's leaking. Always replace the water pump...it's like $60-$100 bucks for a good one. Never seize the fan nut so if you decide to short cut everything I just told you it'll come off easily.
To keep the balancer from rotating when removing bolts l cut a piece of hard wood to place one end in the notch in the balancer and the other end against the frame rail on passenger side to loosen bolts…used frame rail on driver side when tightening bolts when putting balancer back on.
Thank you for the really good explanation of this work. I've heard the term king dowel pin very often. Now I know what it is and where it is sitting and what it can do. Greetings from Germany and thanks a lot👍👍
Good vid…. couple things not perfect but you got it done. You might mention while the cover is off it’s not a bad idea to remove the bolts behind the gears inside there and clean the threads and add thread lock and reinstall. They have been known to fall out or so I’m told… good insurance while all the hard work has already been done.
TurboSix Logistics Thanks man! And the only way i know is to pull the cover and check it. Good time to re seal the cover and replace the crank seal too.
nice video helped me get through it. BUT.......I did measure .25 gap on the sensor and used a steel gauge. The sensor is magnetic. All back together and now won't crank. Did I ruin the sensor?
@@Uts9000 if the engine won't crank over, it sounds like something else is going on. Did you use the baring tool? Make sure you didn't leave that in there
I'm a big fan of spray hi tack. And your seal process is all wrong. What you called a depth ring is used on the outside and you drive against that with a driver or block of wood till it bottoms on cover. The plastic guide stays in place and protects seal from edge of crankshaft. It will fall off once the seal is on the shaft.
Hey man love you videos. Got a question about the kdp install. I see that you put silicone around your seal. Would you do the same if you have the seal with the red ring around it also? Or is that meant to be a built on “silicone”? Thank you
Yeah if it has the red ring of sealant on the gasket you should put it in dry. But I don't know, I've seen those leak over time as well. It's never a bad idea to use Permatex the right stuff around the gasket. Best sealant ever!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thanks for the quick reply! Sorry if I wasn’t super clear but I’m referring to the crank seal. Yours was bare metal on the outside but mine has that red smooth exterior (no bare metal) would you add silicone to that? If so, what kind? As far as the gasket I picked up permatex right stuff because of your vid! Do you put it on both sides of the gasket or just side that mates to the cover?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow the reason I ask about the seal is because in this vid he says not to put any silicone on that style because it could cause problems. Just wondering your take. ruclips.net/video/ZywZ8gmPfB4/видео.html
No problem. And yeah for the crank seal I would put it in with just the red stuff on there and it'll be fine. For the gasket. Yeah a tiny tiny smear covering both sides. Don't overdo it
If you have a 90 degree inspection camera spin off the oil fill tube and run the camera in. Really need the side angle camera to see but it is doable with a quality straight camera.
hey, thanks again, your vid. is short, straight, but directly to the point, the best on you-tube, everyone else's to much bs, and you're right, I probably shouldn't be working on this thing anyway, ,, lol. However, just out of curiosity, what is that dow pin for?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow could using a metal feeler cause any issues? I just did the kdp using a metal feeler to adjust sensor and believe it may have caused a sensor issue..
@@williambaker7351 I mean honestly I used steel on mine and I had zero issues. And I've never seen it cause an issue in the past. But I suppose it's possible especially if you slid it through a bunch of times maybe or something?
Sounds like we are a little too far from each other. and I don't really do much side work. Work full time at a shop. I would think somebody would charge maybe around $200 labor to do it though
NoNonsenseKnowHow actually come to find out my truck has already been done but thank you for your response man. Highly appreciated and awesome / informative video! Keep up the good work man
Well brother I got bad news, did my kdp but apparently last owner had it come out on him and left the kdp OUT and JB welded the crack up. It barely leaks oil but anyways if you don’t mind can I get your opinion on the situation man. Apparently I’ve been riding around for close to 90k miles with no dowel and JB weld case 😅😅😅
Damn man sorry to hear that. I mean if it was me I would get a whole new timing cover and replace it. Better safe than sorry. But then again I'm pretty anal about mechanicals.
Straight to the point, no bullshit so thanks man! I have a 97 with manual trans so I will be good just putting it in gear and e brake to remove balancer?
so you want to actually set the depth from the front that flanged out. That what Cummins specs are for. You also want to leave that plastic sleeve on during install because that will guide the seal and not let it roll over. the plastic will push itself out. Learn form my mistake those seals are not cheap 50$ a pop at orielys
No such as a dumb question. For one, if a magnet was strong enough to pull mine out, it probably wouldn't have still been in there in the first place. And also, it's somewhat of a structural component between the timing case cover and block. So really it should be in there for integrity reasons. But yeah if yours is loose and a magnet can pulled out I don't see any harm happening
Do NOT remove the plastic seal it is there for a reason to protect the crank when slidding it on. You have one shot at putting it on and the plastic inner seal will come off as you slide the seal over the crank.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Agreed. But, I get motion sickness very easily. I have to say I wish others would follow your video format. I didn't have to listen to bad loud music over doing the vocals. Nor did I have to suffer 2-3 minutes of BS in the beginning. Very well done! Thanks again!
Isn't that the weak stuff? I don't think I've ever even used it. I'm blue or red on everything. They say red is permanent, but that's certainly not the case
Awesome video. Other RUclipsrs are annoying talking about give aways and other dumb crap. This video was straight to the point and simplified.. covered everything I needed to know. My 12 valve is caked in oil on the timing cover. Looks like the crank seal is leaking bad. Hopefully not a cracked timing case. After I get some seals ordered I'm tearing into mine. Thanks for the clear video!
One thing for anyone who doesn’t have the tools to take the fan off by the big nut, if you take the 4 bolts off the actual place the fan is mounted to the engine it comes right off easy and makes the job way faster.
MVP comment. I’ll attempt to take the fan off but if the air hammer says no, we’re going for the 4 bolts lmao
this guy is the BEST. ALL THE INFO in a short as possible, no nonsense vid! Thanks for being professional.
Dodge specs for 1995 balancer air gap is 0.049in(1.25mm) min to 0.051in(1.30mm) max, and brass(non-magnetic) feeler gauge must be used to adjust the sensor.
Thanks for adding that!
I'll add it to the description right now
That removable white plastic ring on the seal is there to make it easier to get the seal over the crank when you're reinstalling the cover. Less chance of damaging the seal during installation. When you put the cover back on and shove the seal over the crank, that white plastic ring pushes out part way so you can grab it from the front and pull it out the rest of the way after you've got the cover bolted down.
Right on! Haha yeah unfortunately I figured that out after the fact. Was able to get the cover on no problem though and still doesn't leak to this day. So far.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Just noticed that you already said that in the description, which I failed to "read first" as you suggested. Sorry. Nice video though - straight to the point and "no nonsense," as advertised. Great job.
Whoa! Someone just told me I install the seal from the back! Then I saw this. I better find an official document.
Nice video style.
Great pace. Thanks for making it quick, simple no nonsense.
Ocean Maverick thanks for the feedback and glad it helped it!
just got my inlaws old farm truck 93 D250. This is my next project. thank you sir!
Thank you for the concise, yet comprehensive video, I wish more youtubers would follow your example. Everything I needed to know with no BS that I didn't care about. Thank you for even saying what size the various fasteners are! Great video, keep up the good work!
No problem! Glad you found it helpful and I appreciate the feedback
I just did the crank seal on a 95 5.9 and the pin was laying in the bottom of the timing cover it is easy enough to make the tab yourself and save the money. Good video
The "crankshaft position sensor " is NOT a CPS...it is the ESS (Engine speed sensor, & the gap is nominally 50 thousands. Great video
many thanks, just because of you, I just replaced my front seal, and kdp key. Awesome! !! I have a 1998 3500 dually, 4x4, extended cab, 12v. very rare, and I want to keep it forever, and now I feel because of you, I can.
h
Holy crap, FINALLY great information without all of the extra BS. THANKS!
Definitely saving this video for when the time comes to replace mine
On Amazon:
*CUMMINS BARRING TOOL: amzn.to/370T0tp
*KDP KIT: amzn.to/2YyI8zn
*CRANK SEAL INSTALLER TOOL: amzn.to/2RjkJzE
*AIR HAMMER: amzn.to/2S2Aw7r
*FAN CLUTCH TOOL: amzn.to/39bmBlk
*TIMING CASE(in case yours is cracked): amzn.to/2RZ03Nb
*PERMATEX SILICONE: amzn.to/2NF10vH
*THREAD LOCKTITE: amzn.to/2ucixT6
Good idea to replace the belt and tensioner while doing the KDP
*BELT TENSIONER: amzn.to/382ArGi
*DAYCO BELT with AC: amzn.to/2NRB4wW
*DAYCO BELT without AC: amzn.to/2OvnDR9
*IDLER PULLEY: amzn.to/36TF5oQ
*My Other 2nd Gen Ram Videos: bit.ly/2TLhJLQ
NoNonsenseKnowHow I know this video is old but I’ll still say, the plastic sleeve is for install over the crank. It keeps you from folding the seal over but you were lucky not to have that issue. Also the metal ring is the install tool, you use that to push the seal in and set the depth from the front, how you did it is ok and you even have the seal set in a different spot than factory and that keeps it out of the worn area of the crank.
Good video. The only thing I do differently is I don't take the fan apart. I just take the 3 bolts out. Then turn out the last one with a skinny wrench. Lifts right out with the shroud. Just have to be careful.
You are supposed to leave plastic sleeve in until cover is in place to make sure you don’t roll the seal but if you are careful it works
Don't use lock tite on the crank bolts..the blots are soft...you'll never get them back out draw lines with a paint pen around them like your drawing a circle right across the bolts and front cover. Find the crank sensor air gap...it matters. Don't use whatever you have laying around for driving your dry seal into your front cover. You don't want to get your engine back together just to find out that you took a shortcut and it's leaking. Always replace the water pump...it's like $60-$100 bucks for a good one. Never seize the fan nut so if you decide to short cut everything I just told you it'll come off easily.
To keep the balancer from rotating when removing bolts l cut a piece of hard wood to place one end in the notch in the balancer and the other end against the frame rail on passenger side to loosen bolts…used frame rail on driver side when tightening bolts when putting balancer back on.
Genius thanks for the idea. In the past I used a ratchet strap and strapped to the axle but this is a good idea too!
Most helpful video I’ve found for this job by far and I watched without sound good job man thanks for the great helpful video
Great! Thanks for letting me know it was helpful. Appreciate it
Awesome straight to the point
Good brief. Impressed with details and key points.
Yeah I'm impressed with this vid too...great job man
Been needing to do that for years as my seal has been leaking .thanks for sharing
No problem man!
Like everyone else said, great video, straight forward tutorial, thumbs up !!
Thanks man!
Thanks buddy, I appreciate the fast and to the point video. Ill let you know how the install goes.
NoFlashNoZoom thank you for your comment and good luck with the install!
Already had a pin!!! Ha!
NoFlashNoZoom do you mean it already had a tab in place? If the pin wasn't there that would have meant that it fell out and into your oil pan.
No it was already tabbed!
Thank you for the really good explanation of this work. I've heard the term king dowel pin very often. Now I know what it is and where it is sitting and what it can do. Greetings from Germany and thanks a lot👍👍
Good vid…. couple things not perfect but you got it done. You might mention while the cover is off it’s not a bad idea to remove the bolts behind the gears inside there and clean the threads and add thread lock and reinstall. They have been known to fall out or so I’m told… good insurance while all the hard work has already been done.
That was an awesome job on the video. You set yourself apart from others for sure
Thanks Julian I appreciate the kind words
you take the mystery out of it,,,thanks great void.
Good one Nonsense. No BS and thank the heavens no drama. 👍
Might be doing this over the weekend. Thanks for downing it dumb for the rest of us. 😆
Great vid very informative right to the point very easy to understand
Thank you for the through how to video. I will be doing this soon to my engine.
West Coast Roller no problem and I'm glad you found the video helpful!
interesting you put the seal in from the front of the timing cover, should go in from the back. Hey seemed to work fine.
Thanks! I didn't know that. I'll keep that in mind for the future though. She's been good since... no leaks yet
Flat out awesome vid, I have a 91 non-innercooled single cab dually, is there anyway to tell if this has already been done?
TurboSix Logistics Thanks man! And the only way i know is to pull the cover and check it. Good time to re seal the cover and replace the crank seal too.
I have seen them checked with a 10 dollar scope. Lol...because I did it.
The plastic sleeve is supposed to stay on the deal to help guide it onto the crank. Do not remove until it's on the crank
Yeah you're right. I realized that after the fact.
Ya this screwed me over
Did the seal tear on you when installing?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow sure did
Damn that sucks. Mine went in without a problem. Unfortunately I can't go back and edit this video.
nice video helped me get through it. BUT.......I did measure .25 gap on the sensor and used a steel gauge. The sensor is magnetic. All back together and now won't crank. Did I ruin the sensor?
When you say it won't crank, you mean it won't start? Crank no start
And no I couldn't really see a steel feeler gauge affecting anything.
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow no crank. Can the dampner be out of position?
@@Uts9000 if the engine won't crank over, it sounds like something else is going on. Did you use the baring tool? Make sure you didn't leave that in there
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow it is a stick trans. The KDP was not an issue but I had to check. Was running fine prior to taking it apart. Thanks for the help
I'm a big fan of spray hi tack. And your seal process is all wrong. What you called a depth ring is used on the outside and you drive against that with a driver or block of wood till it bottoms on cover. The plastic guide stays in place and protects seal from edge of crankshaft. It will fall off once the seal is on the shaft.
Right on just what I needed to know for one of my winter projects.
Any videos on rear main seal for 98 jeep zj 5.2.?
No I don't have any videos on that
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Too bad sure you could have made a good one. Thanks for your Work
No problem! Good luck on the project
Hey man love you videos. Got a question about the kdp install. I see that you put silicone around your seal. Would you do the same if you have the seal with the red ring around it also? Or is that meant to be a built on “silicone”? Thank you
Yeah if it has the red ring of sealant on the gasket you should put it in dry. But I don't know, I've seen those leak over time as well. It's never a bad idea to use Permatex the right stuff around the gasket. Best sealant ever!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thanks for the quick reply! Sorry if I wasn’t super clear but I’m referring to the crank seal. Yours was bare metal on the outside but mine has that red smooth exterior (no bare metal) would you add silicone to that? If so, what kind?
As far as the gasket I picked up permatex right stuff because of your vid! Do you put it on both sides of the gasket or just side that mates to the cover?
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow the reason I ask about the seal is because in this vid he says not to put any silicone on that style because it could cause problems. Just wondering your take.
ruclips.net/video/ZywZ8gmPfB4/видео.html
No problem. And yeah for the crank seal I would put it in with just the red stuff on there and it'll be fine. For the gasket. Yeah a tiny tiny smear covering both sides. Don't overdo it
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow awesome. Thanks again for your replies. Big help
Is there any way to find out if it's already installed without taking it all apart?
Thank you
Not that I know of
If you have a 90 degree inspection camera spin off the oil fill tube and run the camera in. Really need the side angle camera to see but it is doable with a quality straight camera.
How many hours would you bill this out for ?
good no bs video
hey, thanks again, your vid. is short, straight, but directly to the point, the best on you-tube, everyone else's to much bs, and you're right, I probably shouldn't be working on this thing anyway, ,, lol. However, just out of curiosity, what is that dow pin for?
wmligon57 I believe it is just a dowel pin for the timing cover alignment
Ever hear of not using a metal feeler gauge to adjust the crank sensor? Was told need to use a brass feeler. Gap specs are .049-.051.
Yes if you see the description, I updated that info in there. But thank you anyway for the heads up
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow could using a metal feeler cause any issues? I just did the kdp using a metal feeler to adjust sensor and believe it may have caused a sensor issue..
@@williambaker7351 I mean honestly I used steel on mine and I had zero issues. And I've never seen it cause an issue in the past. But I suppose it's possible especially if you slid it through a bunch of times maybe or something?
I only have metal ones. Only thing I use. Never had a problem. I like to set them at 50. Tighten down with the feeler in place.
Perfect video.. Thanks man
Did you have to drain your engine oil to do the KDP?
Great question. No you do not
Thanks👍. And great video I plan on doing mine soon
@@jadenbier6633 no problem man, good luck on it. It's not very hard once you tear in
Killer vid
Thanks dude.
Oh Yeah man absolutely, keep vids like that coming, that info is kickass, valuable as hell
Good tutorial. Thank you.
What would you charge to do this on a 96 12v? I live in cambria county PA
Sounds like we are a little too far from each other. and I don't really do much side work. Work full time at a shop. I would think somebody would charge maybe around $200 labor to do it though
NoNonsenseKnowHow actually come to find out my truck has already been done but thank you for your response man. Highly appreciated and awesome / informative video! Keep up the good work man
Is it necessary to replace the crankshaft seal? I'm about to do my KDP, and I just bought the tab.
MultiWingnut unless it already has a newer seal in it, I would definitely replace it. do it once do it right
Great video!
is this a problem on the 99 24 valve?
No, only 12 valve
thank you so very,very much, your video is fantastic and your help is greatly appreciated! !!!!
wmligon57 thank you for your comment and im happy the video helped you out. Comments like yours are what keep me driven!
Well brother I got bad news, did my kdp but apparently last owner had it come out on him and left the kdp OUT and JB welded the crack up. It barely leaks oil but anyways if you don’t mind can I get your opinion on the situation man. Apparently I’ve been riding around for close to 90k miles with no dowel and JB weld case 😅😅😅
Damn man sorry to hear that. I mean if it was me I would get a whole new timing cover and replace it. Better safe than sorry. But then again I'm pretty anal about mechanicals.
NoNonsenseKnowHow yeah I agree man I’d rather not worry about it every time I go to drive it. DANGIT lol such a crappy job to 🤣🤣. Thanks brother
@@weepweep2225 no problem man, good luck!
Excellent video
great job!
Straight to the point, no bullshit so thanks man! I have a 97 with manual trans so I will be good just putting it in gear and e brake to remove balancer?
Yeah you should be good. Mine was no problem
NoNonsenseKnowHow 10-4 thanks again brother!
Where can i get a brass feeler gauge? at any auto part store
Yeah I should be able to get it at an auto parts store. Most feeler gauges come with some brass feelers in there as well
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow thank you
@@Luna-dt1nt No prob
What is a KDP?
so you want to actually set the depth from the front that flanged out. That what Cummins specs are for. You also want to leave that plastic sleeve on during install because that will guide the seal and not let it roll over. the plastic will push itself out. Learn form my mistake those seals are not cheap 50$ a pop at orielys
Yeah I learned about the plastic sleeve after the fact. Luckily mine didn't damage the seal though and doesn't leak
Dumb question...why not just use a magnet to pull the KDP out?
No such as a dumb question. For one, if a magnet was strong enough to pull mine out, it probably wouldn't have still been in there in the first place. And also, it's somewhat of a structural component between the timing case cover and block. So really it should be in there for integrity reasons. But yeah if yours is loose and a magnet can pulled out I don't see any harm happening
The kdp is a press fit into the block and is used to secure the location of the timing case on assembly.
on an auto you could just throw the shifter into 1st and put ebrake on
Really? Have you tried it? If that works that would be great.
Best. Ty.
Do NOT remove the plastic seal it is there for a reason to protect the crank when slidding it on. You have one shot at putting it on and the plastic inner seal will come off as you slide the seal over the crank.
Good explanation.
A little slower in moving the camera around please. Also a few more closeups of what you are describing.
Thanks for sharing.
Agreed. Got motion sickness from it. But, very informative and to the point. Appreciate it.
Haha yeah some of these older videos were pretty bad with swinging the camera around!
@@NoNonsenseKnowHow Agreed. But, I get motion sickness very easily. I have to say I wish others would follow your video format. I didn't have to listen to bad loud music over doing the vocals. Nor did I have to suffer 2-3 minutes of BS in the beginning. Very well done! Thanks again!
Just pean the aluminium over with a straight blade screw driver in 2 or 3 spots. DONE! FREE! FIXED!
👍🏻
Chris Mathews fixes a KDP, live at 11
Don't be scared use green bearing retainer on that kdp bolt. Lol
Isn't that the weak stuff? I don't think I've ever even used it. I'm blue or red on everything. They say red is permanent, but that's certainly not the case
I use blue or red. Doesn't matter. I prefer the red for that particular bolt. I've seen them done with none just torqued to 25ft/lb
Will u do mine ,I'll happy to pay u.
Where do you live? I'm in Morrisville Pennsylvania
👍