The till was binding in the front. Does it still bind if you turn it around end to end? If it binds in front but not in back, doesn't that mean that the front is too narrow rather than the till being too wide?
@@GuildensternTube Remove the zinc with muriatic acid. Hardware stores sell it for etching concrete. You can blacken with black oxide compound which is used for tooling and machining. Amazon, Grainger, or McMaster-Carr.
@@Fulcrum205 you can remove the zinc with vinegar (leave it immersed overnight) and blue the steel with heat (use those simple blowtorches) and cooking oil. I love the fact that it's implied that the solution must be easy to a beginner, but here we have people talking about muriatic acid and bluing liquid -- that you gonna use like 3 drops and waste the rest of the bottle.
An exercise in building a cheaper and quicker version of a toolbox that is both heavy and makes your tools less accessible. It misses the point- you are supposed to reach Nirvana through toil and pain, only suffering can allow you to reach this state. So the building should be as difficult as possible, to match the hair-shirt use of the chest when finished. High point is removing the zinc, so that the hardware can get decently rusty unless you oil it regularly. Because he does not like the appearance. This from a man that claims the tools need the chest to stop the dust rusting them... He thinks wood dust contains salt- completely missing the point that wood dust is mildly hydroscopic, so tends to protect the tool... So, he actively forces himself to oil his toolbox hardware, but cannot bother to oil his tools.
Proof is in the pudding. I’m not seeing it here. He took sap wood tool chest plans, which were crap and laminated wood to make them worse... those old designs were terrible. No room for expansion and contraction.... That’s why the tops all cracked... My chest is the only one I’ve found to be good.... it’s oak.
I think he's a decent chap . We all know he's more of a writer . He doesn't pretend to be an expert does he?As for the he comment about he has a successful furniture business ,I think not.
Now you’ve got my attention. I’m a 67 year old with no experience. I’m ready to give it a try. Need to get the tools first!
A very enjoyable series Christopher.
Great Product !!!!!!!
I really like the tray runners.
The till was binding in the front. Does it still bind if you turn it around end to end? If it binds in front but not in back, doesn't that mean that the front is too narrow rather than the till being too wide?
2:50 that DVD is long gone, is there a way to buy just cutting list for "screw ATC" plywood toolbox ?
Could you add a cover to the top till?
Where can people get te plans ? R there plans in metric ?
Just convert into metric.
You might cold-blue the hardware.
Totally agree on zinc hardware. I am actually looking for black blacksmith work what doubles the expenses sadly.
You can strip the zinc plating and blacken hardware yourself. It's very easy.
@@Fulcrum205 How?
@@GuildensternTube Remove the zinc with muriatic acid. Hardware stores sell it for etching concrete.
You can blacken with black oxide compound which is used for tooling and machining. Amazon, Grainger, or McMaster-Carr.
Or you can make your own. Nails too, if you want the full experience...
@@Fulcrum205 you can remove the zinc with vinegar (leave it immersed overnight) and blue the steel with heat (use those simple blowtorches) and cooking oil.
I love the fact that it's implied that the solution must be easy to a beginner, but here we have people talking about muriatic acid and bluing liquid -- that you gonna use like 3 drops and waste the rest of the bottle.
Why do you want 3/4poplar and on top of that 3/4plywood . Do you mean 1inch Poplar ?
He does. But you really must not question the guru, grasshopper. There is a deeper meaning we neophytes are not worthy enough to understand.
boards sold as 1" thickness have 3/4" actual thickness, so ether one makes sense ... :)
Great videos but why are they such poor quality? 480p is lousy - even viewed on a small laptop screen it's very poor quality.
RIP
In my first work I always used Woodglut plans.
More like butter than jam?
480P ... fun stuff.
An exercise in building a cheaper and quicker version of a toolbox that is both heavy and makes your tools less accessible.
It misses the point- you are supposed to reach Nirvana through toil and pain, only suffering can allow you to reach this state. So the building should be as difficult as possible, to match the hair-shirt use of the chest when finished.
High point is removing the zinc, so that the hardware can get decently rusty unless you oil it regularly. Because he does not like the appearance. This from a man that claims the tools need the chest to stop the dust rusting them... He thinks wood dust contains salt- completely missing the point that wood dust is mildly hydroscopic, so tends to protect the tool... So, he actively forces himself to oil his toolbox hardware, but cannot bother to oil his tools.
Nice and grody. 😂
I can see why you teach instead of do.
He has a successful furniture business also...
Denis Quinn Too bad you speak before you know.
I know what you mean.
Proof is in the pudding. I’m not seeing it here. He took sap wood tool chest plans, which were crap and laminated wood to make them worse... those old designs were terrible. No room for expansion and contraction....
That’s why the tops all cracked...
My chest is the only one I’ve found to be good.... it’s oak.
I think he's a decent chap . We all know he's more of a writer . He doesn't pretend to be an expert does he?As for the he comment about he has a successful furniture business ,I think not.