Scott thanks for that diagnosis. I don't think I would have been able to solve that problem that quickly. I would have started messing with the carb thinking that was the issue. Good job man, I learned sumthin'!
Another great Vid Scott, I know I sometimes get reluctant when I have to take apart the clutch side of a trimmer, especially when the OEM gives you No Slack on the wires and throttle cables!!
Excellent well presented video. After asking Husqvarna UK about the lifetime warranty on the ignition module. They referred me to the dealer I bought it from. They said no, and quoted £60 plus inc., postage.
As a homeowner mechanic that would have been the last thing I would have checked after "futzing" with the wiring (shorted wires, bad switches, etc.). THEN, I would have had to buy/order/wait for the ignition coil, knowing that if my diagnosis was incorrect I'd be "eating" the coil. I wish there was an easy way to check for a bad coil.
It can be hard to separate fuel issues from ignition issues. One way to diagnose a bad coil with reasonable certainty is confirm everything else is ok (kinda like you explained). Some electrical problems abruptly turn on and off or have a rhythm. A carb problem won't do that. The final way is that once you've done enough of these, well, you just know the difference.
You are correct, it is important and I forgot to mention it. Most Husqvarna 2 cycle engines call for a gap of .3mm between the flywheel and ignition module.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thank you for the quick response. I honestly was not expecting an answer for a while. I am having this same issue with Husqvarna 122cc. I have all the information I need to fix it now. Thank you again.
Ok the video is great but one thing for a first time watcher and first time fixing it what tool is needed? Never heard you say what size you used anything
Theres a few reasons for that. One is that someone may have worked on the equipment before and changed the hardware or the same model may use different hardware over the years. Another reason is because as a gear head I just assume that if you're gonna take on a project that you have the tools and will just grab the correct one for the job. I know thats not the right attitude but thats the way I think. Another reason is that some of these videos sit in my computer for years before I edit them and I just don't remember what sizes I've used. I guess I show you how I fixed something and some things you'll have to figure out on your own. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Did a service bulletin come through for this ignition module? If so, would it have listed identification numbers for the module itself as well as all the machines the module was installed on? I suspect by the sheer numbers of failures you’ve seen that the shop stocks replacements by the dozen and it’s quicker to just swap it out rather than resistance testing at this point. I’d love to know R values for a known good and range of values for failed ones since I’d want to get a confirmed diagnosis before ordering a replacement. Since that machine was so new that was probably your first clue - the air/fuel systems hadn’t had a chance to get fouled up yet.
With Husqvarna a lot of times you won't see a service bulletin. All you'll see is a superceded part number. If there is a service bulletin it might only say something like "Part x has been upgraded to improve performance" or something like that. Don't get me wrong, they do have some very detailed service bulletins out there but not always.
Another entertaining video Scott. Unfortunately you hit on one of my pet peeves! I can understand the term cut the power or cut the lights or cut the switch off. Because when you cut a wire electrons stop flowing and things turn off. However you cannot cut something "ON" Sorry just my own personal pet peeve. Keep up the good work.
You are "cutting" whatever is stopping the flow. If you had a wooden dam, you might cut the wood to turn the water on. Just like by cutting a wire you stop the flow of electricity. In neither situation are you cutting the actual water or the electricity. In both situations you are cutting either the medium that it flows through or something that is clogging that medium...With electricity, a switch can clog the medium. If you remove (cut) the clog by turning a switch on, you are in essence "cutting on" the same way you use the switch to "cut off". Hope this helps.
When I’m reassembling anything like that I’m always very careful about forcing parts back together if there’s any resistance because it’s usually a wire or part I haven’t located correctly. I suspect in this case it’s probably just the high tension lead needing initial compression into tight spaces, which is why when I take them apart sometimes I see them compressed in certain areas into non-round shapes. Does that make sense?
I have the same model. I have spark, good compression, even poured fuel in the cylinder… still won’t start. Could it be a weak ignition module not making a strong spark under compression?
Mine won't start because the pull cable is too easy to pull. Do you know what the problem is? New cable & pawl replaced. Original cable & pawl performed the same. It sometime can pull & start trimmer.
Some models have an easy start feature that includes another spring. That could have slipped in the plastic pulley. It requires disassembly and inspection.
Scott thanks for that diagnosis. I don't think I would have been able to solve that problem that quickly. I would have started messing with the carb thinking that was the issue. Good job man, I learned sumthin'!
Glad to hear you're getting value from these vids.
Another great Vid Scott, I know I sometimes get reluctant when I have to take apart the clutch side of a trimmer, especially when the OEM gives you No Slack on the wires and throttle cables!!
The good thing about being an employee is that I don't have a choice. Just do it!
I'm really enjoying going through your videos, very easy to watch and your explanations and tips are spot on big guy!
Its weird. I put out a video and think its good. A year later I watch it and think its lame 🙂Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Excellent well presented video. After asking Husqvarna UK about the lifetime warranty on the ignition module. They referred me to the dealer I bought it from. They said no, and quoted £60 plus inc., postage.
I can't speak for the policies on the other side of the pond. Sometimes I forget my audience is bigger than my living room :-)
Same here in Canada
As a homeowner mechanic that would have been the last thing I would have checked after "futzing" with the wiring (shorted wires, bad switches, etc.). THEN, I would have had to buy/order/wait for the ignition coil, knowing that if my diagnosis was incorrect I'd be "eating" the coil. I wish there was an easy way to check for a bad coil.
It can be hard to separate fuel issues from ignition issues. One way to diagnose a bad coil with reasonable certainty is confirm everything else is ok (kinda like you explained). Some electrical problems abruptly turn on and off or have a rhythm. A carb problem won't do that. The final way is that once you've done enough of these, well, you just know the difference.
When I first read the title I thought it said "122 CC string trimmer". I was thinking, hmmmm... that's a big string trimmer!
Click Bait!
What is the gap? You did not say. It is important information.
You are correct, it is important and I forgot to mention it. Most Husqvarna 2 cycle engines call for a gap of .3mm between the flywheel and ignition module.
@@TheGreasyShopRag Thank you for the quick response. I honestly was not expecting an answer for a while. I am having this same issue with Husqvarna 122cc. I have all the information I need to fix it now. Thank you again.
this will more than likely come in handy as I just found a "new" one on FB marketplace and i'm sure i'll have this issue later.
Good luck with your new trimmer.
Ok the video is great but one thing for a first time watcher and first time fixing it what tool is needed? Never heard you say what size you used anything
Theres a few reasons for that. One is that someone may have worked on the equipment before and changed the hardware or the same model may use different hardware over the years. Another reason is because as a gear head I just assume that if you're gonna take on a project that you have the tools and will just grab the correct one for the job. I know thats not the right attitude but thats the way I think. Another reason is that some of these videos sit in my computer for years before I edit them and I just don't remember what sizes I've used. I guess I show you how I fixed something and some things you'll have to figure out on your own. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Did a service bulletin come through for this ignition module? If so, would it have listed identification numbers for the module itself as well as all the machines the module was installed on? I suspect by the sheer numbers of failures you’ve seen that the shop stocks replacements by the dozen and it’s quicker to just swap it out rather than resistance testing at this point. I’d love to know R values for a known good and range of values for failed ones since I’d want to get a confirmed diagnosis before ordering a replacement.
Since that machine was so new that was probably your first clue - the air/fuel systems hadn’t had a chance to get fouled up yet.
With Husqvarna a lot of times you won't see a service bulletin. All you'll see is a superceded part number. If there is a service bulletin it might only say something like "Part x has been upgraded to improve performance" or something like that. Don't get me wrong, they do have some very detailed service bulletins out there but not always.
Thanks Need to swap my coil This will be very Helpful
Good luck with the repair!
Another entertaining video Scott. Unfortunately you hit on one of my pet peeves!
I can understand the term cut the power or cut the lights or cut the switch off. Because when you cut a wire electrons stop flowing and things turn off.
However you cannot cut something "ON"
Sorry just my own personal pet peeve. Keep up the good work.
Sure you can. Its like cutting the cheese. Things start flowing!
You are "cutting" whatever is stopping the flow. If you had a wooden dam, you might cut the wood to turn the water on. Just like by cutting a wire you stop the flow of electricity. In neither situation are you cutting the actual water or the electricity. In both situations you are cutting either the medium that it flows through or something that is clogging that medium...With electricity, a switch can clog the medium. If you remove (cut) the clog by turning a switch on, you are in essence "cutting on" the same way you use the switch to "cut off". Hope this helps.
When I’m reassembling anything like that I’m always very careful about forcing parts back together if there’s any resistance because it’s usually a wire or part I haven’t located correctly. I suspect in this case it’s probably just the high tension lead needing initial compression into tight spaces, which is why when I take them apart sometimes I see them compressed in certain areas into non-round shapes. Does that make sense?
Yep. Sometimes they were intended to be routed that way and other times they are mis-assembled from the factory.
Can't find how to grease these up as no screw any idea 😒
What's the gap for ignition module? Curious what size feeler gauge to use.
.3mm Thanks for tuning in.
I have the same one. Was running fine. Then all of a sudden it stopped and never started back.
Bummer.
The same thing happened to me, i only used it twice then nothing.
When you used the feeler gauge, what size did you use?
.3mm
I have the same model. I have spark, good compression, even poured fuel in the cylinder… still won’t start. Could it be a weak ignition module not making a strong spark under compression?
Thats possible but we need more clues. When you try tostart it does the cylinder flood with fuel or does it stay dry?
@@TheGreasyShopRag seems to stay dry before the new carburator it would flood the cylinder
@@tiernosev Hmmm, kinda hard to guess. Ya know that spark has to be timed. Maybe the flywheel key is sheared.
It ended up beigng the key in the flywheel. Thanks a lot
@@tiernosev Good job with that repair!
there is a black fuel line coming from the fuel tank with what looks like a cotton filter ,fuel keeps coming out of it, whats its purpose
I think you're looking at the fuel tank vent. That foam filter you see should have a duckbill valve under it. That may be leaking or missing.
@@TheGreasyShopRagyour right,and it is leaking
@@user-zp5st8ty6b The duckbill valve is part number 575484501.
Where can I purchase the module?
Your local Husqvarna dealer.
Mine won't start because the pull cable is too easy to pull. Do you know what the problem is?
New cable & pawl replaced. Original cable & pawl performed the same. It sometime can pull & start trimmer.
Some models have an easy start feature that includes another spring. That could have slipped in the plastic pulley. It requires disassembly and inspection.
what thickness feeler gauge should i be using between the flywheel and module?
The official husky tool is part number 502513402 and is .3mm or .012" thick.
@@TheGreasyShopRagthanks so much i appreciate that. i am actually replacing the same ignition module on a husqvarna 122 LK. same exact thing. thanks.
Hola si pudiran poner sub en español. Desde santiago de chile saludos y muchas gracias.🇨🇱
Thanks for watching!
is this problem common for 543 rs? i have the same problem
I would say its not a common problem but it happens enough that identifying it has become easy.
@@TheGreasyShopRag so I replaced the same thing from aliexpress, now starts as it should be
@@supersonic0888 Good job!
Why the weird beard got up?
Grooming is a waste of time with a mug like that.