First use the same arrow weight and length. +/- 5 grains. 1.) tune bow. 2.) paper tune bow. 3.) shoot broad heads or field tip. 4.) if out turn knock 1/4 turn. 5.) repeat. If no fix move to step 6. 6.) Remove fletching from arrows and shoot bare shaft. Turn the nock 1/4" turn until arrows are shooting good. Mark nock with sharpie. Refletch. You can also use a spine tester for this. This can get way more extensive. IE if you start by building the arrow for the bow and not the bow for the arrow.
Zachary Watson you can do all that unless It was all done already and then you rest tune and It hits dead nuts your done. John Dudley does the same thing with fixed blades once all is setup and done. This isn’t a bow tuning video this is simply a fixed blade verse field tip fix. They rarely fly the same out of the box the nock tune aids in that
I have noticed after years of trying to broad head tune like this that sometimes you have to move your rest the opposite way. For example if your broadhead is hitting left then move your rest left. Don’t get stuck on moving your rest to push your broadhead towards your field tip it doesn’t always work like that. If you think of it like paper tuning and your broadhead is pushing left then your arrow is coming off cocked with the tip to the left (nock right) in paper. then wouldn’t you move your rest away from riser ( for right handed shooter)
Brent Hood yes and no. Your thinking sorta correctly and sort of not. So if the field point hits dead on. Field points mask small discrepancies. So if the broadhead hits let’s say 1” left of the field tip, you chase the rest toward the miss because what’s happening is the rest isn’t truly centered to the string drive of the arrow ie nock point. So to exaggerate the arrow is aimed left at full draw already and the paper tune may look perfect because it’s merely just a basic basic start point not for critical changes. So you chase the field point with the rest (move rest right) and then at full draw that arrow lays dead centered. I hope that makes sense. But paper tune is just a simple basic get It on the grid and everything else goes from there.
Brent Hood if you moved your rest away from where you want to hit and It worked, there’s other timing and nocking alignment issues because that would enhance the miss if Its purely a fixed blade planing in flight issue! Hope that helps
DIY Hunter I know paper is just a starting point but I have tuned several bows in my life and I shoot exclusively fixed blades for hunting. I have chased trying to push a fixed blade towards my field tips and all that happens is my poi changes with but the broadhead doesn’t get any closer. The reason this happens isn’t because of improper tuning it’s because of the archers paradox. The way the spine of your arrow flexes in the air. So the point changes the way it is directed I’m reference to the nock. The spine of your arrow has h big impact on this as well. And how square your arrow is On Both ends. I’m not putting this out here to disagree with you I’m just saying I have read all the how too articles and watched all the videos and no one seems to talk about this and it wasn’t until I correlated broadhead tuning to paper tuning did it clear things up for me. There is one thing in archery that I can say is nothing is constant it’s all based off of the shooter
And I’m not talking big adjustments a little movement goes a long way. For example on my Mathews vertix I set the center shot at 13/16 and broadheads where close but just a little left at 40 yards I moved my rest right and nothing changed as far as the distance my bh was from my ft. I go back to 13/16 and move my rest left just a hair and now my bh and ft are grouped together.
Brent Hood then the cause of the miss isn’t the rest forcing that broadhead to plane it’s an uneven nock end cut spine something else but if It fixed so be It ive never seen or been around chasing the miss with a rest before on a fixed blade when It wasnt something other than the rest is all
If you have a 25 grain difference in arrows it will effect spine. Spine will give you horizontal deviations. I'm not sure I would personally tune with different arrow weights. You may be correcting a problem that doesn't exist.
Neil Emick who would tune they’re now with different arrow weights? We certainly don’t recommend that and didn’t in this video? Spine is affected by front weight and poundage draw drastically but if your well within spec of the arrow spine and as high as 500-525 grains It doesnt effect the left and right as far as spine goes. This was merely to show how to adjust the rest not a full tune on the bow
@@DIYHunter I'm not sure who would, but you're using 2 different arrows weights in the video. You state that. No biggie. My comment was general not trying to start a great debate.
Broadheads hitting to the left is not fixed by moving the rest to the right. Broadheads left is a tail right problem which is fixed by moving the rest left.
Rbunton1987 that’s not valid for most cases when the field points hit dead on. Even John Dudley does the same and Levi when It comes to a micro adjust. If they have hit straight into the target it’s not a tail issue it’s a front rudder issue of the broadhead just planing a shade off. Easy fix
I normally shoot rage and wanted to try fixed blades and the fixed blades are hitting 3in up and 4in to the right . Adjusted my rest down and to the left but the gap between my field points and broad heads is the same just now the broad heads are hitting were i am aiming and the field points are hitting low and to the left .
if you have social media, find our instagram or facebook and shoot us a message and well do what we can, peculiar they are doing that but have some questions for you
hello friend i followed your advice but when i move the arrowrest, both arrows vary. to match the impact i should move the arrowrest too much and my arrow doesn't fly well. what do i do? I shoot a slicktrick and it hits 3 inches to the right of my fieldpoint.
I've been shooting a RhinoBlock for 3 seasons that has a replaceable core once you tear it up too bad. Only downside I can see is if you are shooting a mechanical that is prone to breaking off inside stiffer targets. Other than that I highly recommend it.
How’s it going I was wondering if I could ask about sighting in my broadheads. Worked on getting it level now I’m just to the right a hair but my broadhead is dead on with my sights. I have moved my rest with the broadhead right to try to bring it left and I hit a point to where it was going even farther left. I also tried opposite and it just went further right. I’ve tried the broadhead with different arrows and same results. Was wondering if this might be as close as I’m going to get and just change my sight a hair for left to right or if I can get it closer thanks !
Quick question for you. Just realized my setup is fairly similair to yours. A Black Gold sight and QAD rest. What is the benefit of changing the rest as opposed to adjusting the sight left/right or up/down? This is what I did to get my field points sighted in. (When adjusting the sight I do not move the pins in the sight, but the whole thing itself) Thank you!
phenn 777 if you’re field points hit different than your fixed blade then the arrow isn’t coming off the rest correct it’s not an aiming issue plus field point and broadheads should hit the same
S&Madventures every bow paper tunes almost perfectly right from the factory with field points if that’s what your referring to, but to paper tune with a broadhead and It hits wont calibrate for how that arrow planes at 30,40,50 yards. Were talking micro adjustments to get them in line with a field point unless something is drastically off with the bow
Did you say you are shooting arrows that are 2 different weights? If that's the case, you shouldn't be broadhead tuning with two different weighted arrows. The heavier tipped arrow is weaker, therefore it won't fly the same as the stiffer arrow.
Somewhere In Wisconsin correct. Was shooting the video purely for showing the step process, my other arrows weren’t quite done yet so i was just letting arrows rip to show how I’d tune. But the weight wasn’t enough to effect my spines. However yes
Its my first bow and it was really easy to use and was well aimed right out the gate ruclips.net/user/postUgkxQEKUoxLWwayEDZR0NKB-5limn4MBU-2L . After assembly I my first two shots were great at 20 yards. As a beginner I definitely recommend a beginner bow. An E clip did pop off a cam after a day of shooting but I had a replacement ready, it would be nice to have a spare e clip or two in the parts list. Also, the release isn't as tight on the draw as I'd like, accidently shot two arrows into the ground before I got a good hold on it. Aside from that, great experience.
No you don’t. Not if the field tips are accurate. Odds are there needs a small, maybe 1/16th adjustment the broadhead is most likely if the single cause of the miss left not the bow, is planing that way you always chase the field point. That’s taking out all other factors, the bow tune grip release etc.
If your bow is properly tuned with field tips, "Bare shaft tuned", that arrow will fly true to your field tips. If your shooting left or right you need to put twist I to the YOKE, (cam lean), not move the rest. Keep the center shot true.
Bill Stiger yes but when sighting in fixed blades this isn’t always the case. That’s a big front rudder and It will steer even the smallest of being off and plane up down left right etc. for sure your tuning tip is spot on, but my bow was center center with field points out to 80 and as soon as the fixed blade went on it slid just a bit.
Not necessarily, once you get into the cables your really making some heavy movements, this is just merely a movement for the basic initial test, we’re talking 1/32, 1/16th of an inch. These big fixed blades turn a minor into a major movement
The off chance that you would reply to this 2 years later when I adjusted the rest it moved my broadhead and my field tip the same amount so now my broadhead is centered but my field tip is about 5" left any idea what the issue might be
Plebian Bargain nope. It’s well below the weight i can handle and have drawn that way since i was a kid, had a pretty severe shoulder injury and it just tracks differently since then
Wrong. Bowtechs with overdrive binaries you never move the rest from dead center of the shelf. If your broadheads were truly right of your field points, that would indicate a nock left tear through paper. If you would have just wen't to a press,put a half,or even one twist in your left yoke top and bottom,your broadhead would have been spot on. That's the beauty of the cam system. Your welcome.
Joe Malek i don’t know, this method works like a charm. And this bow hasn’t been out of tune in 2 years almost now. Shoots straight to 100 yards with this method and clean on paper. We’re talking like a 1/32” rest move
you cant plausibly line that up correctly down to the 1/16th or even smaller. But not this is how you tune a fixed blade, if anything your correcting the (fish tail) which is referred to as how the arrow planes through the air. A fixed blade will show the smallest amount of being out of tune from longer distances.
This may be a dumb question but good fixed blade broadheads should fly as good as fieldpoints? I.e. if I can group fieldpoints to a 3” dot at 60 yards should a good fix blade do the same? Also great video I liked and subbed!
absolutely, as long as the broadheads are totally square and spin correctly, always spin test them as well sometimes we find certain broadheads even seem to fit better with a different arrow shaft potentially, but as you saw in this video i made one tune of my rest then my broadheads were hitting out at 60-80 dead nuts no problem. In most cases if only shooting up to 30-40 yards I will find the broadheads hit very close to the field point right out of the box if your bow is truly tuned correctly.
64k views and it's bad information. This is the same wrong information that's been passed down since compound bows got a beyond centershot riser and mechanical releases became popular. When shooting a beyond centershot compound bow with a mechanical release you move your rest TOWARDS THE BROADHEAD. You gave bad info and then didn't even follow up and prove what you were saying. Finger shooters and release shooters use opposite rest movements for right/left issues. That goes for paper, bareshaft or broadhead tuning.
@@DIYHunter And they're wrong too. They like you are just passing on information that they heard from someone else without really thinking about it. Not their or your fault necessarily but the fault of the people that originally didn't know they were wrong. Now there's decades worth of people unwilling to admit they were wrong the whole time. It really all goes back to the Easton tune guide and the fact that the broadhead tuning section was written for finger shooters only. People don't realize that so they're confused by it but if you notices on the guide, there are no fixes listed that are opposite what finger shooters would do like there are in the paper tuning guide. They also differentiate between right and left hand shooters in the broadhead guide, which you do not do when shooting a beyond centershot compound bow with a mechanical release aid. The thing about tuning is that it's based on physics. The physical laws of nature do not change simply because the head design changes. If you fix a nock right by moving the rest to the right, that will apply every single time, no matter the shape of the arrow point. I've tuned thousands of bows and never once have I had a bow tune the way you say to do it. It just doesn't happen. Again, it's physics.
@@huntinsker I don't want to look unkind with the guy who have made the effort to make this video with the intent to help other people, but you're 100% correct on this subject 👍. The only thing to do, if in dubt, is just to try both ways, and see wich one is the right one..
TheFlanman10 that’s not totally true. If your paper tune is good. And you can’t group broadheads to save your life correctly with the field point then what’s the sense of the paper tune. It’s merely to get the arrow flying as close as possible. It’s the very first most basic step, not the final product nor going to always be spot on once a broadhead is added up front. That head steers like a rudder and adjustments will need to be made most the time
6:35 you say it wrong.. There is so much wrong information in the internet. I understand why, side way tuning is confusing and the right way to do it sounds wrong :D If broadhead (or bare shaft) hits left side of the field tip, you have to move arrow rest to the LEFT, not right like you said. Here is gold tip tuning guide: ruclips.net/video/NJo3UBIU-Sk/видео.html&t
That’s not correct. Broadhead chases the field point if your bow is center shot and tuned. It’s generally a planing issue with a fix blade. John Dudley and Levi Morgan both do It this same exact way. Works every time if the bow is setup correctly
@@DIYHunter Do you mean gold tip tuning guide is wrong ? There can't be two truths - or if can, please someone explain me why :D If broadhead hits left side of the field tip, it is a nock right (tear) problem and fixed by moving rest to left archeryandbow.com/how-to-paper-tune-a-bow/ I know there are lots of misinformation around the internet because this is very confusing. There is another one, if arrow lefts the bow sideways nock right (which causes broadhead hit left side of field tips), moving rest to left will fix it: bowlogic.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Paper-Tuning-a-Compound-Bow-1-767x425.jpg
@@justinberry16 no problem, since then have upgraded and are shooting a triax and a bowtech SR6. but that reign 6 is a hell of a powerful bow for cheap these days
Sean Mellers don’t need an outsert Black Eagle makes screw in brass weight for inside the shaft in the back end of the insert. Plus the heads are 100 by themselves. Why is 200 a bit much? Bow is shooting over 278-280 still more speed isn’t even relevant adding 10-15 FPS we would rather add the wright ten times over again
@@DIYHunter I never said it was too much. To be clear, I was saying that I don't think you're shooting 200gr up front. In your defense, you did say "close" to 200gr up front. I was trying to figure out how you hit 200gr since I favor a high FoC arrow. Semantics really, good video.
Sean Mellers yeah man no problem. Check out black eagle they’re screw in brass is heavy and make tons of combos i did check these arrows specifically have i think 95 of brass or 105 then the head is 100 as well.
Sean Mellers that’s cuz they’re almost 10 gpi arrow you get a lot of weight through the arrow. Lot of people over rate FOC and under rate total weight. FOC is great and does help with pulling the arrow rather than pushing, but total arrow weight is the smash factor of impact regardless of where on the arrow It occurs. 500g is 500g in terms of purely impact power! Go back to them, run whatever you love!
Jonathan Hatfield it’ll be super super close if you nail the 20 yard down. But yes. You may get out to 50-60 and have a tiny variance. However, most times you get fix that with a small nock twist and reshoot. Test It with 1/4 twist each time
@@DIYHunter I recently tuned my bow, and got field tip and broad head shooting very close at 20. But i'm seeing a drop in my broad head at 30 and 40. What am I doing something wrong here?
Stephen Jones the paper tune should be done first but a paper tune is merely a rough tune but isn’t the final tune job. When you adjust the rest you shouldn’t be moving more than 1/32 or 1/16 and that will not change paper tune, or It shoumdnt at least. If It would male you feel better you can but we’ve never in however many years done so and with this method can hit out at 80,90,100 and be accurate so the tune holds true! I hope that helps
After my bow is tuned with field points I just use a separate sight for the bigger fixed blades if poi not the same. Saves so much time and headache, and it flat works. Why untune the bow you just tuned, right?
mine was hitting roughly a few inches off at 20-25 yards, im talking a 1/16 inch adjustment to the rest sqaured it all the way to 80 yards. One movement and it was done. This wont knock it out of tune, it actually wasnt tuned quite refined enough, just a paper tune doesnt cure all especially with added weight and out at distance. Fixed blades have a front rudder which will make them plane more deviant if the bows even off by millimeters thats all.
Good deal! I guess my experience is that some big fixed blades just fly a little different than field points sometimes. Even when the bow is tuned (paper, walk back etc.) I shoot an old, cheap single cam though...lol! Thanks for the reply!
Need a better backstop, like an 8'x8' something. Fence ain't good enough in a residential area. A neighbor shot an arrow through his silhouette, board fence like yours, my chain link fence and hit my patio door. We had a talk about that....Uncontrolled arrows in residential areas is not good. Can you say manslaughter?
Phil Ward that’s an aggressive comment but we get where your coming from. It’s not residential and i own on the other side of the fence which backs up to trees and woods. Its irrelevant
Phil Ward really sometimes makes ya shake your head at how much people don’t think doesn’t it? I see stuff all the time and you go man. What on earth that seems terrible from the get go!
John Dudley and Levi Morgan both do It this way. But it’s not always just as simple. There’s a million components involved most the times it’s not just a rest move anyhow, and after the rest fix. Worked like a charm. Always does if everything else is shooting to spec.
What are you taking about spare what, there’s guys all over running 5 fletches we didn’t say do It or recommended It we’ve just seen guys doing It that’s It
If you all haven't seen a documentary called.... It's worse than you think.... By revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ
Seriously "bro" "bra" "bruh" or whatever you nuevo hipster eco bowhunter city boys call yourself it's pronounced Haydees..... Grim Reaper Hades (haydees)... the E is not silent. At least try to know what your talking about for crying out loud.
Donnie Shulka uhhh, i lived in a county of 4500 people and graduated high school with 50. Not a city hipster eco whatever your referring to, as did our other two team members. So no idea where your getting your evidence were hipster city boys, never lived in a cities for any of us in our lives. The person behind manufacturing these broadheads we personally deal with and pronounces It the same way as we did so not sure that having a slang version makes you wrong in what your talking about.
Donnie Shulka yeah, we’re not sure where or why the negativity man to banter someone for what they’re wearing which is gym clothes none the less, but appreciate the input anyhow
First use the same arrow weight and length. +/- 5 grains.
1.) tune bow. 2.) paper tune bow. 3.) shoot broad heads or field tip. 4.) if out turn knock 1/4 turn. 5.) repeat. If no fix move to step 6. 6.) Remove fletching from arrows and shoot bare shaft. Turn the nock 1/4" turn until arrows are shooting good. Mark nock with sharpie. Refletch. You can also use a spine tester for this. This can get way more extensive. IE if you start by building the arrow for the bow and not the bow for the arrow.
Zachary Watson you can do all that unless It was all done already and then you rest tune and It hits dead nuts your done. John Dudley does the same thing with fixed blades once all is setup and done. This isn’t a bow tuning video this is simply a fixed blade verse field tip fix. They rarely fly the same out of the box the nock tune aids in that
I have the same target when the middle is shot out just put a ratchet strap around it and tighten it up and it will stop your arrow again
I have noticed after years of trying to broad head tune like this that sometimes you have to move your rest the opposite way. For example if your broadhead is hitting left then move your rest left. Don’t get stuck on moving your rest to push your broadhead towards your field tip it doesn’t always work like that. If you think of it like paper tuning and your broadhead is pushing left then your arrow is coming off cocked with the tip to the left (nock right) in paper. then wouldn’t you move your rest away from riser ( for right handed shooter)
Brent Hood yes and no. Your thinking sorta correctly and sort of not. So if the field point hits dead on. Field points mask small discrepancies. So if the broadhead hits let’s say 1” left of the field tip, you chase the rest toward the miss because what’s happening is the rest isn’t truly centered to the string drive of the arrow ie nock point. So to exaggerate the arrow is aimed left at full draw already and the paper tune may look perfect because it’s merely just a basic basic start point not for critical changes. So you chase the field point with the rest (move rest right) and then at full draw that arrow lays dead centered. I hope that makes sense. But paper tune is just a simple basic get It on the grid and everything else goes from there.
Brent Hood if you moved your rest away from where you want to hit and It worked, there’s other timing and nocking alignment issues because that would enhance the miss if Its purely a fixed blade planing in flight issue!
Hope that helps
DIY Hunter I know paper is just a starting point but I have tuned several bows in my life and I shoot exclusively fixed blades for hunting. I have chased trying to push a fixed blade towards my field tips and all that happens is my poi changes with but the broadhead doesn’t get any closer. The reason this happens isn’t because of improper tuning it’s because of the archers paradox. The way the spine of your arrow flexes in the air. So the point changes the way it is directed I’m reference to the nock. The spine of your arrow has h big impact on this as well. And how square your arrow is On Both ends. I’m not putting this out here to disagree with you I’m just saying I have read all the how too articles and watched all the videos and no one seems to talk about this and it wasn’t until I correlated broadhead tuning to paper tuning did it clear things up for me. There is one thing in archery that I can say is nothing is constant it’s all based off of the shooter
And I’m not talking big adjustments a little movement goes a long way. For example on my Mathews vertix I set the center shot at 13/16 and broadheads where close but just a little left at 40 yards I moved my rest right and nothing changed as far as the distance my bh was from my ft. I go back to 13/16 and move my rest left just a hair and now my bh and ft are grouped together.
Brent Hood then the cause of the miss isn’t the rest forcing that broadhead to plane it’s an uneven nock end cut spine something else but if It fixed so be It ive never seen or been around chasing the miss with a rest before on a fixed blade when It wasnt something other than the rest is all
Hades: Pronounced "hade-ees", meaning: Hell. And they do fly really well, and cut like hell!
lspostma thank u
Another great informational video. Thank you.
If you have a 25 grain difference in arrows it will effect spine. Spine will give you horizontal deviations. I'm not sure I would personally tune with different arrow weights. You may be correcting a problem that doesn't exist.
Neil Emick who would tune they’re now with different arrow weights? We certainly don’t recommend that and didn’t in this video? Spine is affected by front weight and poundage draw drastically but if your well within spec of the arrow spine and as high as 500-525 grains It doesnt effect the left and right as far as spine goes. This was merely to show how to adjust the rest not a full tune on the bow
@@DIYHunter I'm not sure who would, but you're using 2 different arrows weights in the video. You state that. No biggie. My comment was general not trying to start a great debate.
Broadheads hitting to the left is not fixed by moving the rest to the right. Broadheads left is a tail right problem which is fixed by moving the rest left.
Rbunton1987 that’s not valid for most cases when the field points hit dead on. Even John Dudley does the same and Levi when It comes to a micro adjust. If they have hit straight into the target it’s not a tail issue it’s a front rudder issue of the broadhead just planing a shade off. Easy fix
Great video! Ps my dogs name is Remi aswell!
I normally shoot rage and wanted to try fixed blades and the fixed blades are hitting 3in up and 4in to the right . Adjusted my rest down and to the left but the gap between my field points and broad heads is the same just now the broad heads are hitting were i am aiming and the field points are hitting low and to the left .
if you have social media, find our instagram or facebook and shoot us a message and well do what we can, peculiar they are doing that but have some questions for you
hello friend i followed your advice but when i move the arrowrest, both arrows vary. to match the impact i should move the arrowrest too much and my arrow doesn't fly well. what do i do?
I shoot a slicktrick and it hits 3 inches to the right of my fieldpoint.
1:20
No apologies needed for freedom
MERICA FUCK YEA
I've been shooting a RhinoBlock for 3 seasons that has a replaceable core once you tear it up too bad. Only downside I can see is if you are shooting a mechanical that is prone to breaking off inside stiffer targets. Other than that I highly recommend it.
Brad Garland may have to take a look cuz these new weights blow through this target
How’s it going I was wondering if I could ask about sighting in my broadheads. Worked on getting it level now I’m just to the right a hair but my broadhead is dead on with my sights. I have moved my rest with the broadhead right to try to bring it left and I hit a point to where it was going even farther left. I also tried opposite and it just went further right. I’ve tried the broadhead with different arrows and same results. Was wondering if this might be as close as I’m going to get and just change my sight a hair for left to right or if I can get it closer thanks !
Quick question for you. Just realized my setup is fairly similair to yours. A Black Gold sight and QAD rest. What is the benefit of changing the rest as opposed to adjusting the sight left/right or up/down? This is what I did to get my field points sighted in. (When adjusting the sight I do not move the pins in the sight, but the whole thing itself) Thank you!
phenn 777 if you’re field points hit different than your fixed blade then the arrow isn’t coming off the rest correct it’s not an aiming issue plus field point and broadheads should hit the same
@@DIYHunter Great, thank you!
Maybe a stupid question but if you paper tuned your bow and then now you change your rest position wouldn't that mess with the paper tune?
S&Madventures every bow paper tunes almost perfectly right from the factory with field points if that’s what your referring to, but to paper tune with a broadhead and It hits wont calibrate for how that arrow planes at 30,40,50 yards. Were talking micro adjustments to get them in line with a field point unless something is drastically off with the bow
Once you get the broad heads to hit where the field points are hitting... should they hit in the same spot out to 40, 50 and 60 yards too?
Yes 100%, my broadheads slam at 80 right on a field point
Did you say you are shooting arrows that are 2 different weights? If that's the case, you shouldn't be broadhead tuning with two different weighted arrows. The heavier tipped arrow is weaker, therefore it won't fly the same as the stiffer arrow.
Somewhere In Wisconsin correct. Was shooting the video purely for showing the step process, my other arrows weren’t quite done yet so i was just letting arrows rip to show how I’d tune. But the weight wasn’t enough to effect my spines. However yes
@@DIYHunter Ah. I see.
Somewhere In Wisconsin thinking back i should of just waited i was trying to get out how to tune left and right with the broadhead should of waited
Now I have seen the left right deal done opposite ways.
Ya he’s wrong, watch inside out precision broad head tuning 2.0 video
Its my first bow and it was really easy to use and was well aimed right out the gate ruclips.net/user/postUgkxQEKUoxLWwayEDZR0NKB-5limn4MBU-2L . After assembly I my first two shots were great at 20 yards. As a beginner I definitely recommend a beginner bow. An E clip did pop off a cam after a day of shooting but I had a replacement ready, it would be nice to have a spare e clip or two in the parts list. Also, the release isn't as tight on the draw as I'd like, accidently shot two arrows into the ground before I got a good hold on it. Aside from that, great experience.
I just could not get them turned, ran out of adjustment! So I change the arrow. Fixed.
There may have been a spine issue with your other arrows that’s always a possibility! I’m glad you got It figured out though man!
If your broadhead is hitting to the left you would move the rest left, not right
No you don’t. Not if the field tips are accurate. Odds are there needs a small, maybe 1/16th adjustment the broadhead is most likely if the single cause of the miss left not the bow, is planing that way you always chase the field point. That’s taking out all other factors, the bow tune grip release etc.
If your bow is properly tuned with field tips, "Bare shaft tuned", that arrow will fly true to your field tips. If your shooting left or right you need to put twist I to the YOKE, (cam lean), not move the rest. Keep the center shot true.
Bill Stiger yes but when sighting in fixed blades this isn’t always the case. That’s a big front rudder and It will steer even the smallest of being off and plane up down left right etc. for sure your tuning tip is spot on, but my bow was center center with field points out to 80 and as soon as the fixed blade went on it slid just a bit.
rest should stay still & you should use your buss cables to adjust your left & right.
Not necessarily, once you get into the cables your really making some heavy movements, this is just merely a movement for the basic initial test, we’re talking 1/32, 1/16th of an inch. These big fixed blades turn a minor into a major movement
@@DIYHunter maybe I worded it wrong. Buss cables should be your first move, if a 1/2 twist is to much then the rest should be tweeked.
@@rustyblevins5751 100% correct. That is the benefit of having split yokes top and bottom.
The off chance that you would reply to this 2 years later when I adjusted the rest it moved my broadhead and my field tip the same amount so now my broadhead is centered but my field tip is about 5" left any idea what the issue might be
Your cam timing is probably off or need extra twist into your string somewhere. All the bows are different. Definitely a shop trip
@@DIYHunter string twist i would guess or stretch. Strings been on for a while now just had cams timed. Thank you!
Bro your draw looks like a future rotary cuff injury.
Plebian Bargain nope. It’s well below the weight i can handle and have drawn that way since i was a kid, had a pretty severe shoulder injury and it just tracks differently since then
Watching this I feel shoulder pain!
Great explains Thsnkyou
Wrong. Bowtechs with overdrive binaries you never move the rest from dead center of the shelf. If your broadheads were truly right of your field points, that would indicate a nock left tear through paper. If you would have just wen't to a press,put a half,or even one twist in your left yoke top and bottom,your broadhead would have been spot on. That's the beauty of the cam system. Your welcome.
Joe Malek i don’t know, this method works like a charm. And this bow hasn’t been out of tune in 2 years almost now. Shoots straight to 100 yards with this method and clean on paper. We’re talking like a 1/32” rest move
Won’t that cause the arrow to fishtail? I line the tip of my broadhead with my string and pins and it seems to work well for me.
you cant plausibly line that up correctly down to the 1/16th or even smaller. But not this is how you tune a fixed blade, if anything your correcting the (fish tail) which is referred to as how the arrow planes through the air. A fixed blade will show the smallest amount of being out of tune from longer distances.
DIY Hunter well I’m not a professional shooter at all. I can group in probably a 6” circle at 40 yards but I’ll try this and see what happens.
Axemurder Bambi It will absolutely work, this is how you fine tune a fixed blade but you’ve gotta group to know where to even move the rest to.
This may be a dumb question but good fixed blade broadheads should fly as good as fieldpoints? I.e. if I can group fieldpoints to a 3” dot at 60 yards should a good fix blade do the same? Also great video I liked and subbed!
absolutely, as long as the broadheads are totally square and spin correctly, always spin test them as well sometimes we find certain broadheads even seem to fit better with a different arrow shaft potentially, but as you saw in this video i made one tune of my rest then my broadheads were hitting out at 60-80 dead nuts no problem. In most cases if only shooting up to 30-40 yards I will find the broadheads hit very close to the field point right out of the box if your bow is truly tuned correctly.
Are you paper tuning the target points first
Arrows are built by us, tuned, spin tuned, nock tuned. Etc. before all else. So yes so to speak
64k views and it's bad information. This is the same wrong information that's been passed down since compound bows got a beyond centershot riser and mechanical releases became popular. When shooting a beyond centershot compound bow with a mechanical release you move your rest TOWARDS THE BROADHEAD. You gave bad info and then didn't even follow up and prove what you were saying. Finger shooters and release shooters use opposite rest movements for right/left issues. That goes for paper, bareshaft or broadhead tuning.
huntinsker not always true but thanks for the input! John Dudley and Levi Morgan would both refute that point as well.
@@DIYHunter And they're wrong too. They like you are just passing on information that they heard from someone else without really thinking about it. Not their or your fault necessarily but the fault of the people that originally didn't know they were wrong. Now there's decades worth of people unwilling to admit they were wrong the whole time. It really all goes back to the Easton tune guide and the fact that the broadhead tuning section was written for finger shooters only. People don't realize that so they're confused by it but if you notices on the guide, there are no fixes listed that are opposite what finger shooters would do like there are in the paper tuning guide. They also differentiate between right and left hand shooters in the broadhead guide, which you do not do when shooting a beyond centershot compound bow with a mechanical release aid. The thing about tuning is that it's based on physics. The physical laws of nature do not change simply because the head design changes. If you fix a nock right by moving the rest to the right, that will apply every single time, no matter the shape of the arrow point. I've tuned thousands of bows and never once have I had a bow tune the way you say to do it. It just doesn't happen. Again, it's physics.
@@huntinsker
I don't want to look unkind with the guy who have made the effort to make this video with the intent to help other people, but you're 100% correct on this subject 👍.
The only thing to do, if in dubt, is just to try both ways, and see wich one is the right one..
What about that messing up the paper tuning? If you move that rest now its leaving the bow incorrectly.
TheFlanman10 that’s not totally true. If your paper tune is good. And you can’t group broadheads to save your life correctly with the field point then what’s the sense of the paper tune. It’s merely to get the arrow flying as close as possible. It’s the very first most basic step, not the final product nor going to always be spot on once a broadhead is added up front. That head steers like a rudder and adjustments will need to be made most the time
6:35 you say it wrong.. There is so much wrong information in the internet. I understand why, side way tuning is confusing and the right way to do it sounds wrong :D
If broadhead (or bare shaft) hits left side of the field tip, you have to move arrow rest to the LEFT, not right like you said. Here is gold tip tuning guide: ruclips.net/video/NJo3UBIU-Sk/видео.html&t
That’s not correct. Broadhead chases the field point if your bow is center shot and tuned. It’s generally a planing issue with a fix blade. John Dudley and Levi Morgan both do It this same exact way. Works every time if the bow is setup correctly
@@DIYHunter Do you mean gold tip tuning guide is wrong ? There can't be two truths - or if can, please someone explain me why :D
If broadhead hits left side of the field tip, it is a nock right (tear) problem and fixed by moving rest to left archeryandbow.com/how-to-paper-tune-a-bow/
I know there are lots of misinformation around the internet because this is very confusing.
There is another one, if arrow lefts the bow sideways nock right (which causes broadhead hit left side of field tips), moving rest to left will fix it:
bowlogic.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Paper-Tuning-a-Compound-Bow-1-767x425.jpg
What bow are you shooting?
that bow is a Reign 6 from bowtech, shoots like a cannon
@@DIYHunter Oh okay💯
Thanks man.
@@justinberry16 no problem, since then have upgraded and are shooting a triax and a bowtech SR6. but that reign 6 is a hell of a powerful bow for cheap these days
How do you have 200gr up front? I didn't notice an outsert... Even so 200 is a bit more than I think you actually have.
Sean Mellers don’t need an outsert Black Eagle makes screw in brass weight for inside the shaft in the back end of the insert. Plus the heads are 100 by themselves. Why is 200 a bit much? Bow is shooting over 278-280 still more speed isn’t even relevant adding 10-15 FPS we would rather add the wright ten times over again
@@DIYHunter I never said it was too much. To be clear, I was saying that I don't think you're shooting 200gr up front. In your defense, you did say "close" to 200gr up front. I was trying to figure out how you hit 200gr since I favor a high FoC arrow. Semantics really, good video.
Sean Mellers yeah man no problem. Check out black eagle they’re screw in brass is heavy and make tons of combos i did check these arrows specifically have i think 95 of brass or 105 then the head is 100 as well.
@@DIYHunter I shoot x-impacts man, I'm thinking of getting the deep impacts again though. Those things hit super hard.
Sean Mellers that’s cuz they’re almost 10 gpi arrow you get a lot of weight through the arrow. Lot of people over rate FOC and under rate total weight. FOC is great and does help with pulling the arrow rather than pushing, but total arrow weight is the smash factor of impact regardless of where on the arrow It occurs. 500g is 500g in terms of purely impact power! Go back to them, run whatever you love!
do you have to tune 20 30 40 50 60 after you get 20 yardright
Jonathan Hatfield it’ll be super super close if you nail the 20 yard down. But yes. You may get out to 50-60 and have a tiny variance. However, most times you get fix that with a small nock twist and reshoot. Test It with 1/4 twist each time
@@DIYHunter thank you
@@DIYHunter what is a nock twist?
@@rickbarbato turning your shaft and nock tune
@@DIYHunter I recently tuned my bow, and got field tip and broad head shooting very close at 20. But i'm seeing a drop in my broad head at 30 and 40. What am I doing something wrong here?
Why not the pins? Why rest movements ?
If the field point and broadhead aren’t hitting the same. It’s coming off the bow incorrectly, it’s just a starting point
Should you recheck the paper tune after rest adjustment? I also shoot reign 6 optifade
Stephen Jones the paper tune should be done first but a paper tune is merely a rough tune but isn’t the final tune job. When you adjust the rest you shouldn’t be moving more than 1/32 or 1/16 and that will not change paper tune, or It shoumdnt at least. If It would male you feel better you can but we’ve never in however many years done so and with this method can hit out at 80,90,100 and be accurate so the tune holds true! I hope that helps
After my bow is tuned with field points I just use a separate sight for the bigger fixed blades if poi not the same. Saves so much time and headache, and it flat works. Why untune the bow you just tuned, right?
mine was hitting roughly a few inches off at 20-25 yards, im talking a 1/16 inch adjustment to the rest sqaured it all the way to 80 yards. One movement and it was done. This wont knock it out of tune, it actually wasnt tuned quite refined enough, just a paper tune doesnt cure all especially with added weight and out at distance. Fixed blades have a front rudder which will make them plane more deviant if the bows even off by millimeters thats all.
Good deal! I guess my experience is that some big fixed blades just fly a little different than field points sometimes. Even when the bow is tuned (paper, walk back etc.) I shoot an old, cheap single cam though...lol! Thanks for the reply!
Quite often the fixed blades do hit different your right the faster the bow the more small differences change the flight even
Need a better backstop, like an 8'x8' something. Fence ain't good enough in a residential area. A neighbor shot an arrow through his silhouette, board fence like yours, my chain link fence and hit my patio door. We had a talk about that....Uncontrolled arrows in residential areas is not good. Can you say manslaughter?
Phil Ward that’s an aggressive comment but we get where your coming from. It’s not residential and i own on the other side of the fence which backs up to trees and woods. Its irrelevant
@@DIYHunter Just something I saw and thought I would mention it. Not trying to be aggressive just cautionary, for other folks' benefit too.
Phil Ward really sometimes makes ya shake your head at how much people don’t think doesn’t it? I see stuff all the time and you go man. What on earth that seems terrible from the get go!
What bow is that?
Bowtech
Dude, you look like Brad Marchand.
Joe P i wish. I could hunt for a living very soon with a good retirement!!
Wrong. You move your field point towards the broadhead, not the other way around.
MrMOLONLABE1776 this is the same way John Dudley and Levi Morgan do It. Two of the best shooters on the planet and It works perfectly
Shoot through paper. You're doing it totally opposite. Especially if you bare shaft tuned.
Oh ok. Same method Levi Morgan and John Dudley use. Two of the best shooters in the world. So, can’t agree with you it’s wrong
Your wrong you wanna move your rest towards the broadhead. Go watch inside out precision.
John Dudley and Levi Morgan both do It this way. But it’s not always just as simple. There’s a million components involved most the times it’s not just a rest move anyhow, and after the rest fix. Worked like a charm. Always does if everything else is shooting to spec.
5 fletching…… hahahaha spare me dude
What are you taking about spare what, there’s guys all over running 5 fletches we didn’t say do It or recommended It we’ve just seen guys doing It that’s It
Buddies a bonehead, soo much wrong information in this video
It works. If the bow is tuned
If you all haven't seen a documentary called.... It's worse than you think.... By revelations of Jesus Christ ministries... I suggest you do... All praise and glory to the most high Jesus Christ
Seriously "bro" "bra" "bruh" or whatever you nuevo hipster eco bowhunter city boys call yourself it's pronounced Haydees..... Grim Reaper Hades (haydees)... the E is not silent. At least try to know what your talking about for crying out loud.
Donnie Shulka uhhh, i lived in a county of 4500 people and graduated high school with 50. Not a city hipster eco whatever your referring to, as did our other two team members. So no idea where your getting your evidence were hipster city boys, never lived in a cities for any of us in our lives. The person behind manufacturing these broadheads we personally deal with and pronounces It the same way as we did so not sure that having a slang version makes you wrong in what your talking about.
@@DIYHunter I redact the word city. My apologies, you do, however, look and sound like a hipster city boy. Easy mistake to make.
Donnie Shulka yeah, we’re not sure where or why the negativity man to banter someone for what they’re wearing which is gym clothes none the less, but appreciate the input anyhow