You can also use the squaring device to make sure the insert is square since not all are. Aluminum can be sanded, as can brass. Even steel can, I mean we sharpen steel broadhead right? Grind those inserts to make sure they are square too.
Hi Kellen, i know this is a pretty tardy question relative to when you made the vid, but hope you see it still. Thus far i've just been buying/shooting pre-fletched Carbon Xpress arrows that come with installed aluminum inserts. Soooo, a couple of things after watching your vid (which btw i can't believe still only has 408 'Likes' after 4 years, something not right there imo). When you said "once the insert is glued into a carbon arrow you can't remove it, it will ruin the arrow", i flinched...ya see i wanted more weight up front (wanted to increase FOC, mainly for hunting reasons) so i bought some 50 gr brass inserts and swapped out the 11.5 gr aluminums they came with. I used a hot air heat gun and was careful as i could be, moving the heat around a lot. It seemed to go ok...no visible damage that i could see so i hope i'm not overlooking something and hope i haven't messed up. Now for my question; just curious what sort of insert will allow you to square up the end of the carbon shaft itself on the device you used? What i mean is, my carbon xpress have the inserts that have a shoulder that sits out in front of the shaft....was alum. now it's brass. I'm not too worried about it tho cause i'm sure sandpaper will remove micro amount of brass just fine, but i'm just curious. I love the channel and all the excellent videos you've made over the years! Really top notch content in my opinion. Thanks for that.
There’s a lot to unpack here. First, did you cut the arrows to the proper length? If so, what spine are they? Carbon express does their spines opposite everyone else (I.e. 450 is the stiffest, 250 is the weakest). Why they do that is beyond me🤷♂️. Secondly, if you cut them it will just likely be past the insert, in which case you can remove the brass inserts from the cut piece and re install them. You need to square the end of the shaft before doing so. If the insert isn’t seated flush against the shaft the arrow won’t spin true.
@@InsideOutPrecision Yeah i agree; don't know why they have a backwards spine system to everyone else. weird. The first batch i bought are "250's" which is .400 spine. Tbh i just checked a spine chart and ordered them pre cut to the length i thought would work for me and my DL of 29" and the poundage i expected to shoot them at...only 55-60 lbs. My bow maxes out at 65 lb. and i do expect to work my way up to that eventually. With that in mind i also bought some (carbon Xpress 'Adrenalines') that say "350 spine" on the arrow shaft but on the box they list the spine deflection at 0.331". So tbh i don't know whether to refer to them as 350 spine or 330 spine. I'll go with 350 i guess. They're pretty long (no pre-cut) out of the box, at 32". I haven't done anything with them yet in the way of trimming or changing inserts. I apologize if that's a whole bunch more info than you need or wanted. Thanks for the replies Kellen, and thanks for the good tips/info on proper trimming and spin testing.
How much difference should I strive for regarding the weight of the arrows? It is more important for them to be closer in weight than length? Seems that +/- 5 grains would be a good thing.
Well if you cut them different lengths they'll be different weights and flex different as well. I like to get them as close to the same as possible. Mine are all with in a grain of each other. The more premium shafts are usually +/- 1 grain
Only if you know what you're doing when tuning and servicing your bow. Pretty easy to screw things up and if you only have one bow/set up pro shop is probably your best bet!
Would you share any opinions you may have on Magnus Buzzcut broadheads as far as a quality? They don't fly with my field points even after paper tuning my bow. I'll definitely try sanding my Easton Axis arrows and then spin test. Thanks for the quality information.
They're great quality but not really meant for high speed bows. Usually women/youth or tradition shooters use them. That long wide blade just catches so much wind that its hard to keep on track moving fast
@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks for the input and fast reply. I was unaware of that. I shoot a Mission Ballistic. 26.5" draw at around 26 or 27 pounds. I believe that bow was marketed at 330 fps. My local bow shop carries Exodus QAD maybe I'll give those a go. Thanks again.
So if I'm shooting a Rage Hypodermic you're saying I should still do this? With 2 blades and a chisel tip, should I be spinning it with the blades in the collar or out? I just got my heads today, shot the practice head a few times and it was drilling holes right next to my field points but I want to be "over prepared" if anything come next season.
No need to align mechanical heads. Not enough there to catch when they're flying. Still a good idea to square up the ends of your shafts though, you dont want any wobble.
@@InsideOutPrecision Copy that, Thanks for the quick reply!! I was thinking about my question at dinner and thought "well... if anything, spin them closed, since they should fly closed..." but realistically, yea... should fly right if the arrows right. Thanks for the info, I subscribed officially today :)
@@InsideOutPrecision How are you going from sanding to spinning a broadhead? I am assuming the insert is glued in when you are spinning it? Not critiquing just wanting to start doing my own arrows.
It's certainly not necessary, but it will certainly beef up the front end of your arrow in case you hit something hard. Definitely a good idea, but not necessary.
It's funny because I didn't even realize they were different until after the video was up. One was a QAD Exodus and the other a grim Reaper. Both good heads and the same thing would have happened with either of them. Good eye though!
Spine aligning your arrows just makes sure they all flex identically coming out of the bow. That being said, 99.9% of archers can't aim or shoot well enough to tell if the 1/4" they missed by was due to the spine or just holding a little bit off. I still think it's worth while though just so you KNOW your equipment is perfect.
You can also use the squaring device to make sure the insert is square since not all are. Aluminum can be sanded, as can brass. Even steel can, I mean we sharpen steel broadhead right? Grind those inserts to make sure they are square too.
What arrow squaring device do you use?
Hi Kellen, i know this is a pretty tardy question relative to when you made the vid, but hope you see it still. Thus far i've just been buying/shooting pre-fletched Carbon Xpress arrows that come with installed aluminum inserts. Soooo, a couple of things after watching your vid (which btw i can't believe still only has 408 'Likes' after 4 years, something not right there imo). When you said "once the insert is glued into a carbon arrow you can't remove it, it will ruin the arrow", i flinched...ya see i wanted more weight up front (wanted to increase FOC, mainly for hunting reasons) so i bought some 50 gr brass inserts and swapped out the 11.5 gr aluminums they came with. I used a hot air heat gun and was careful as i could be, moving the heat around a lot. It seemed to go ok...no visible damage that i could see so i hope i'm not overlooking something and hope i haven't messed up. Now for my question; just curious what sort of insert will allow you to square up the end of the carbon shaft itself on the device you used? What i mean is, my carbon xpress have the inserts that have a shoulder that sits out in front of the shaft....was alum. now it's brass. I'm not too worried about it tho cause i'm sure sandpaper will remove micro amount of brass just fine, but i'm just curious. I love the channel and all the excellent videos you've made over the years! Really top notch content in my opinion. Thanks for that.
There’s a lot to unpack here. First, did you cut the arrows to the proper length? If so, what spine are they? Carbon express does their spines opposite everyone else (I.e. 450 is the stiffest, 250 is the weakest). Why they do that is beyond me🤷♂️. Secondly, if you cut them it will just likely be past the insert, in which case you can remove the brass inserts from the cut piece and re install them. You need to square the end of the shaft before doing so. If the insert isn’t seated flush against the shaft the arrow won’t spin true.
@@InsideOutPrecision Yeah i agree; don't know why they have a backwards spine system to everyone else. weird. The first batch i bought are "250's" which is .400 spine. Tbh i just checked a spine chart and ordered them pre cut to the length i thought would work for me and my DL of 29" and the poundage i expected to shoot them at...only 55-60 lbs. My bow maxes out at 65 lb. and i do expect to work my way up to that eventually. With that in mind i also bought some (carbon Xpress 'Adrenalines') that say "350 spine" on the arrow shaft but on the box they list the spine deflection at 0.331". So tbh i don't know whether to refer to them as 350 spine or 330 spine. I'll go with 350 i guess. They're pretty long (no pre-cut) out of the box, at 32". I haven't done anything with them yet in the way of trimming or changing inserts.
I apologize if that's a whole bunch more info than you need or wanted. Thanks for the replies Kellen, and thanks for the good tips/info on proper trimming and spin testing.
you probably already answered this, but, which brand of arrow square are you using? Thank you for all of your videos.
That one is made by FireNock
How much difference should I strive for regarding the weight of the arrows? It is more important for them to be closer in weight than length? Seems that +/- 5 grains would be a good thing.
Well if you cut them different lengths they'll be different weights and flex different as well. I like to get them as close to the same as possible. Mine are all with in a grain of each other. The more premium shafts are usually +/- 1 grain
Would you do the same for field tips?
Is buying a bow press worth it? Its alot of money for something that won't get used much
Only if you know what you're doing when tuning and servicing your bow. Pretty easy to screw things up and if you only have one bow/set up pro shop is probably your best bet!
Would you share any opinions you may have on Magnus Buzzcut broadheads as far as a quality? They don't fly with my field points even after paper tuning my bow. I'll definitely try sanding my Easton Axis arrows and then spin test. Thanks for the quality information.
They're great quality but not really meant for high speed bows. Usually women/youth or tradition shooters use them. That long wide blade just catches so much wind that its hard to keep on track moving fast
Much over 250fps and they fly pretty erratic
@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks for the input and fast reply. I was unaware of that. I shoot a Mission Ballistic. 26.5" draw at around 26 or 27 pounds. I believe that bow was marketed at 330 fps. My local bow shop carries Exodus QAD maybe I'll give those a go. Thanks again.
@@InsideOutPrecision With a 125 gr. BH my total arrow weight is around 440 gr. I would believe I'm above 250 fps.
@@judeatkinson1049 26 or 27lbs? You mean 66 or 67? I'm not sure 27lbs would even be legal to hunt with
So if I'm shooting a Rage Hypodermic you're saying I should still do this? With 2 blades and a chisel tip, should I be spinning it with the blades in the collar or out? I just got my heads today, shot the practice head a few times and it was drilling holes right next to my field points but I want to be "over prepared" if anything come next season.
No need to align mechanical heads. Not enough there to catch when they're flying. Still a good idea to square up the ends of your shafts though, you dont want any wobble.
@@InsideOutPrecision Copy that, Thanks for the quick reply!! I was thinking about my question at dinner and thought "well... if anything, spin them closed, since they should fly closed..." but realistically, yea... should fly right if the arrows right. Thanks for the info, I subscribed officially today :)
Are you sanding sown the insert or the carbon shaft the putting the insert in?
The shaft
@@InsideOutPrecision How are you going from sanding to spinning a broadhead? I am assuming the insert is glued in when you are spinning it? Not critiquing just wanting to start doing my own arrows.
@@Codidicus Yeah you square the end up before inserting. Or if its a recessed insert like in axis arrows you can do it after its inserted
That's a very interesting way to align broadheads to vanes, do you think it is necessary to run a footer with the Hitt insert?
It's certainly not necessary, but it will certainly beef up the front end of your arrow in case you hit something hard. Definitely a good idea, but not necessary.
Hell the 6 arrows I got for my hunting set up cost almost as much as by bow
What did you get?
did you change broad heads after you squared the shaft?
It's funny because I didn't even realize they were different until after the video was up. One was a QAD Exodus and the other a grim Reaper. Both good heads and the same thing would have happened with either of them. Good eye though!
How do you line up a broadhead with 4 vans?
The top blade between the two top vanes
Where do I buy that arrow squaring tool?
Fire Nock makes it.
DO you spine align your arrows?
I for my personal set up. I can't tell you I notice any difference though. Group sizes seem to be the same with or without spining them.
I guess if you bare shaft tune your arrows you don't need to?@@InsideOutPrecision
Spine aligning your arrows just makes sure they all flex identically coming out of the bow. That being said, 99.9% of archers can't aim or shoot well enough to tell if the 1/4" they missed by was due to the spine or just holding a little bit off. I still think it's worth while though just so you KNOW your equipment is perfect.
Very good. Thanks@@InsideOutPrecision
Totally off topic....how are you liking your Traverse? I might have to come in and pick one up
I'm absolutely in love with it. Aims like a rock, forgiving, and still produces great speeds. Highly recommend trying one!
Awesome! Around 1K?
@@danielmiller6103 Yep. $999
Great tips, another awesome video, but I kept waiting for you to cut yourself, waving that razor head around....
yes youre mental lol
Every time somebody says cock vain I got a giggle