Hey all, I realize that some say to move the rest in the opposite direction of what I explained in the video. I shared what works for me. If what I explained doesn't work, try a small movement in the opposite direction and hopefully your results will get your BH hitting with FP
You saved me 100% ive been working on getting my bow to shoot broadheads with no luck at all. Did what you were showing and I had it shooting perfect in an hour! Thank you for your knowledge
I went out this morning with one broad head tipped arrow and 3 field point arrows. After walk back tunning and I could not miss!!!!!!!!!Thanks for all you helped me with.
You are welcome. When fine tuning at the end if the rest small rest adjustment doesn't work, try the same adjustment in the opposite direction. Good luck!
First time viewer and I have been shooting bows since I was 11. I have been bowhunting since the age of 12 and I'm 50. I'm glad you are showing the good and bad shots. And you do a great job of explaining tuning broadheads and field points... Most people don't realize if your bow is tuned and your consistent in your anchor and form you can shoot fixed blade ( cut on contact) heads just as good as expandable heads. Awesome job on the video 👍👍
Wisconsin bowhunter1968 that’s because most people don’t properly tune their setup. Squaring up the bow and putting it in spec is the easy part. Tuning properly spined arrows to the bow isn’t quite as easy and it’s time consuming. Once it’s done, fixed blades fly every bit as good as field points.
Thanks for checking it out. However there were two videos prior to this one on modified French tuning, and one on walk-back tuning. That's why the broadheads hit where they hit in this video. Sometimes I need some vertical adjustments to my rest, sometimes I don't once I get to this point in broadhead tuning. Check out video one and video two.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin i have shot a deer in michigan with revolver crossbow shotgun and rifle bows are brand new to me and im addicted i got a brand new out the box but 2 year old bowtech carbon icon for 500$ put a smackdown limb driver trophy ridge hotwire dead center v2 stabilizer and vforce elite arrows and have ruined 3 arrows with one shot at 30 yards am pleased with my set up
@@wesmonahan4372 same boat here man. Im addicted. I got a new hoyt torrex, and I can shoot solid out to 60-ish yards (soccer ball size groups) but I plan to shoot my elk and antelope under 30 if I can. 40 would be absolute max with no wyoming wind lol.
Love the videos. I always have watched and followed exactly all steps in all 3 of these videos about French, walk back and broadhead tuning and it's provided me great results. What is your opinion on bare shaft tuning? First I shot a bare shaft through paper to get a perfect bullet hole from 10 yards. Then I backed up to 20 yards and shot the bare shaft and fletched arrow towards the bullseye to get them both hitting together. Once I accomplish that, is there any point of still running through your process on these 3 videos of French, walk back and broad head tuning? Lots of people say to bareshaft tune because if you can get your bare shaft to fly the same as your fletched arrow, your broadheads should fly the same as your field points. In other words, which method is better between bareshaft tuning and your method of french tuning, walk back tuning and broadhead tuning steps and is it necessary to do them both? Thanks
Great question. The methods in these three videos are great for ANYONE to use. Kind of a beginner guide for someone who doesnt have as much knowledge or a cam system similar to the old Elites and Bowtechs. Bareshaft tuning takes a little more knowledge and possibly a press, draw board, and other archery tools besides an allen wrench. If you have the tools and knowledge, I'd bareshaft tune. Then check broadheads and broadhead tune IF needed after that.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin Great. Thanks. One more thing, I can't tell which way you're pointing your index vein when you're nocking your arrow before shooting. It looks like you have the same launching rest like I do. Some Research says to point the index vein fletching down when using a launching drop rest. Another Research says to point the index vein fletching up. Some others say to point the index fletching away from the riser. I ran a test by spray white powder on my fletchings and nocked my arrow in all 3 ways. Shot an arrow with index vein pointed away from riser, index vein pointed up and index vein pointed down. It looks like my fletchings made contact with my rubber arrow holder in front of my rest when I had the index vein pointed away from the riser and when I had it pointed down. When I shot with the index vein pointed up, no contact was made so is that the correct way I should nock my arrow or which was should your arrow fletchings face?
HEY ALL. Any questions, comment below! Or message me on Instagram. Video 1 and Video 2 are linked in the bio. Thanks as always for liking, subscribing and commenting!
I'm glad u let people know that u don't shoot @ 80 yards to hunt @ 80 yards. 80 yard practice makes tge 30-40 yard range a piece of cake. I'm curious on the specs on your arrows. Like the total weight in grains & your FOC%?
Thanks. Off handedly I don't recall the exact weight, but they are 350s, with a 50 grain insert and 100 grain tips. Probably between 420 and 440 if I had to guess.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin The last 3 years I have been investing alot of time making arrows from scratch. If u start from a clean foundation by the time u start shooting u will cut down greatly all the outliers. Someone that was more into hiking & fishing asked me a year ago about bowhunting. I told him u need to learn to be a good archer & have confidence b4 u become a bowhunter. I started out as a trapper & duck hunter. I simplified things when I noticed that I understood deer better. It wasn't as random with deer. I've been tweeking things over recent years & I have come to a conclusion. All I care about is what happens @ the point of impact. The closer the better. What I didn't expect is that with modern technology u r far better off shooting a deer like a guy with a shotgun does. I'm talking about quartering to where your maximum energy is upon impact on the front of the shoulder on a deer & exiting slightly lower behind the farside front shoulder. Kills them close quicker than a spine shot which I wouldn't never take. The setup is heavier inserts & broadheads on a micro arrow which is 300 spine even though I'm only shooting with 63 lbs. @ the max. Great arrow flight is the key. I build 6 @ a time & I'm currently working on putting precision match weight Firenocks into my system. I'm doing this right now on 2 different micro arrows. Only 3 will be lighted nocks. The other 12 will be identical in weight except they don't have the lighted function. I have never shot lighted nocks but for video purposes I will be in 2021. My 520+ grain arrows r giving me tighter groups where I don't have stray right or left shots. My sight setup is very open & it helps me w/o a rangefinder to know where I have to aim to hit my target.
Hey folks, best time to buy the cheap layered broadheads target is January February. Walmart and academy are good places to look. I bought two delivered last Feb 2022 for $46. They weren’t the very worst construction but one will last me all fall probably.
HI SIW, Please explain why you take the time to walk back tune and get the rest to perfect center shot. Then when you BH tune you take it out of the perfect centershot. It seems the two would be mutually exclusive? One you work to get the rest perfect then you knock it out of perfection. Also similar to Kolt I followed video (very well explained on all 3 vids) and found the BH hits to the right of the FP. I made micro adjustments to the rest left but both BH and FP move equally spaced to the left. If I had a panoramic target I could keep making adjustments and do a circle! lol.
Hey Cam, if you walk back tune at say 60-80 yards you rarely have to actually move your rest left/right. If you only walk back tune to say 40 yards, your walkback may not be precise enough, so when you broadhead tune it becomes a bit more precise. Now, if your BH and FP never come together, but just move over, try going back to center with your rest and make those small rest adjustments in the opposite direction. That will usually bring them together. Let me know if that makes sense.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin hell yeah, thanks for the reply brother! guess ill start finding and saving some plastic up. already lost about 4 arrows to the grass and tired of it haha
If u shoot ur field tip and it hits center and ur broadhead hits low,and u move it rest up wont that make ur field tip shoot high but the distance between the broadhead and the field tip be the same.
Sometimes yes, other times it will bring them closer together if it doesn't bring them together, try and bump the rest a little in the opposite direction.
This sounds like a super time consuming way to tune a bow. Basically what your doing is making the arrow come off the rest perfectly straight, if it's not you will notice more impact shift with a broadhead than a field point. The much simpler way is just to paper tune the bow, it's much faster and works every time. I've never broadhead tuned, only paper tuned and my muzzy 3 blades always shoot in the same spot as my field points out to 60 yards which is as far as im sighted in for. If your not familiar with paper tuning look it up, it's super simple, quick, and only requires you to adjust your sight once.
I bet you have a right helical on those arrows dont you. You can see at 5:55 your arrows come off and spin to the right then change back to the left right before impact. If you had a left helical on your arrows it would come off left and continue to spin that way all the way to the target. Get more spin,control, and forgiveness that way 🤘🏼
@@SomewhereInWisconsin ruclips.net/video/nxV_11gFzGo/видео.html It definitely changes direction mid flight. Check this video out. Been doing it this way for years and it does add a touch more forgiveness 👍
I've seen another video where someone else was talking about how to broadhead tune and this guy was saying if you shoot your field point and its money and hits the bullseye and you shoot your broadhead and your broad head hits to the right of the field point, he's saying to move your rest to the right (towards your broadhead). In this video you're saying to move your rest towards the field point and not towards your broadhead. Which one is it?
I have had success doing both in tiny increments. If you do the modified French tune and then walk back, you may not need to adjust anything. I misspoke in this video, (I think I pinned a comment). So try what the other guy suggested, but if it doesn't work, don't be afraid to try the other way as well.
My range is only 30 yards or so, so if I get everything perfect at 30....will I be off at 40+? I’m shooting a 60lb carbon rx-4 with trophy ridge react pro single pin and a micro adjust hamskea limb drivin rest
Hi! I'm fairly new to broadhead tuning, and I just had a question, my broadheads were hitting left of my field points at 40 yards, so when I moved my rest over slightly to the right, it pushed my field points over 3 inches to the right. Now my broadheads fly amazing and my field points arent even close. Bow has been paper tuned to shoot bullet holes. Is there anything you can suggest to fix my field point flying way off? Thanks!
Hey Kolt, did your FP and Broadhead move closer together? If so, give another tiny bump on the rest in the same direction. Another option, is to bump your rest slightly left (instead of right) and see if that brings both together. I have had success doing it the way I describe in the vid, but others have done the opposite and also had success.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin Hi thank you for your response! It did not bring my points and broadheads together, it seemed my broadhead was 2-3 inches left to begin with, and after my adjustment it just moved everything over 2-3" to the right. It didnt actually bring anything closer together. But i will give that a shot! Thanks
@@SomewhereInWisconsin I took your advice, brought it back to starting position, gave it a nudge left, and now everything flies together, thanks so much for your help!
Hard to say. I shoot a 3 Fletch arrow and a 4 blade head. I know plenty of guys that line em up, and I know plenty more that screw them on and shoot. Personal preference and confidence.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin It's not so much about lining up the blades with the vanes. It IS, however, very important to make sure each broadhead is identically oriented on each arrow so that when the arrows come off the bow, each broadhead catches the air the same. If you subscribe to the theory (and I do) that the blades steer the front of the arrow, then you want each arrow being "steered" identically.
Russell Langworthy if you’re shooting a weak spined arrow, I agree with you. Move up to a stiffer spined high foc arrow and tune it to your bow. You’ll see that issue go away.
Hi thanks for the video.. I have a question, I keep hitting 3" to the right at 40 yards with my BH and I can't move my rest any further to the left any thoughts....
Yes, go back to center. Then try and move the rest the other way. I have had luck going the way I described in the video for very small movements, but others say to move in the opposite direction. Let me know if that works!
Watch this vid at 2:40. Exactly how I explain it. ruclips.net/video/lQQnc1axz9U/видео.html Or this Easton Tuning Guide. images.app.goo.gl/xBDvqrqecMpNY8uG6
@Boxing 101 Do you really need to be so rude? You can be polite and still make your point. Being polite, people will take you more seriously. Ok, now bash me, right?
@Boxing 101 Thanks for the commentary. You seem like a real expert. Hope we cross paths someday. You can set me straight about how not to be a princess.
Your moving your rest the wrong way!! If broadheads plane left that would be a tare right through paper which you would be move the rest to the left to correct!! You always move your rest toward the broadheads for horizontal and opposite the broadheads for vertical!! Bad advice here people are going to be chasing there tales doing it that way and wonder why they arnt getting anywhere!! Again horizontal move toward the broadheads vertical move toward the field point!
I didn't say you shouldn't. I said I won't. I'm a solid shot and shoot year round. And could definitely kill a deer at 60+. I just dont feel a need to shoot that far personally. At a deer.
Hey all, I realize that some say to move the rest in the opposite direction of what I explained in the video. I shared what works for me. If what I explained doesn't work, try a small movement in the opposite direction and hopefully your results will get your BH hitting with FP
You saved me 100% ive been working on getting my bow to shoot broadheads with no luck at all. Did what you were showing and I had it shooting perfect in an hour! Thank you for your knowledge
Love to hear that! Did you start at video 1?
@@SomewhereInWisconsin yes I did. Ditched paper tuning and followed your idea and IT WORKED!
I went out this morning with one broad head tipped arrow and 3 field point arrows. After walk back tunning and I could not miss!!!!!!!!!Thanks for all you helped me with.
Awesome! Congrats! Knock em dead this year!
This is one of the best videos for broadhead tuning.
Thanks!
Most helpful broadhead tuning tutorial that I have found. Thank you for the content man.
You are welcome. When fine tuning at the end if the rest small rest adjustment doesn't work, try the same adjustment in the opposite direction. Good luck!
First time viewer and I have been shooting bows since I was 11. I have been bowhunting since the age of 12 and I'm 50. I'm glad you are showing the good and bad shots. And you do a great job of explaining tuning broadheads and field points... Most people don't realize if your bow is tuned and your consistent in your anchor and form you can shoot fixed blade ( cut on contact) heads just as good as expandable heads. Awesome job on the video 👍👍
Thank you for watching and the compliment. I appreciate it! Good luck this year!
Thanks same to you ..👍
Wisconsin bowhunter1968 that’s because most people don’t properly tune their setup. Squaring up the bow and putting it in spec is the easy part. Tuning properly spined arrows to the bow isn’t quite as easy and it’s time consuming. Once it’s done, fixed blades fly every bit as good as field points.
Great informative video! I learned things about tuning i didn't know after 25 yrs. of shooting!
Best demo I have seen yet
Thanks. Make sure you check out the previous videos!
Seriously the best tuning videos I have found. Thank you so much!
No way! Thank you so much man! Means a lot!
Straight up best tuning video
Thank you for the video! You got a great personality too man haha had me cracking up when you broke the blade and the mosquitoes 🤣
You are welcome! Hope you can check out some of the other stuff on the channel. Thanks for watching!
So much for broadhead tuning video, great job shoot straight
Thanks for the clear instructions!
When you try to make a video to help people tune their broardheads but everything just works with no issues. Hahahaha. Good work bro.
Thanks for checking it out. However there were two videos prior to this one on modified French tuning, and one on walk-back tuning. That's why the broadheads hit where they hit in this video. Sometimes I need some vertical adjustments to my rest, sometimes I don't once I get to this point in broadhead tuning. Check out video one and video two.
Thank you for being realistic and not like every other vid on here guys talking 80 yards 100 yards like stop it its a bow not a rifle
Could I kill a deer at 60+ yards? No doubt. Do I want to? Not a chance. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@SomewhereInWisconsin i have shot a deer in michigan with revolver crossbow shotgun and rifle bows are brand new to me and im addicted i got a brand new out the box but 2 year old bowtech carbon icon for 500$ put a smackdown limb driver trophy ridge hotwire dead center v2 stabilizer and vforce elite arrows and have ruined 3 arrows with one shot at 30 yards am pleased with my set up
@@wesmonahan4372 same boat here man. Im addicted. I got a new hoyt torrex, and I can shoot solid out to 60-ish yards (soccer ball size groups) but I plan to shoot my elk and antelope under 30 if I can. 40 would be absolute max with no wyoming wind lol.
Love the videos. I always have watched and followed exactly all steps in all 3 of these videos about French, walk back and broadhead tuning and it's provided me great results. What is your opinion on bare shaft tuning? First I shot a bare shaft through paper to get a perfect bullet hole from 10 yards. Then I backed up to 20 yards and shot the bare shaft and fletched arrow towards the bullseye to get them both hitting together. Once I accomplish that, is there any point of still running through your process on these 3 videos of French, walk back and broad head tuning? Lots of people say to bareshaft tune because if you can get your bare shaft to fly the same as your fletched arrow, your broadheads should fly the same as your field points. In other words, which method is better between bareshaft tuning and your method of french tuning, walk back tuning and broadhead tuning steps and is it necessary to do them both?
Thanks
Great question. The methods in these three videos are great for ANYONE to use. Kind of a beginner guide for someone who doesnt have as much knowledge or a cam system similar to the old Elites and Bowtechs. Bareshaft tuning takes a little more knowledge and possibly a press, draw board, and other archery tools besides an allen wrench. If you have the tools and knowledge, I'd bareshaft tune. Then check broadheads and broadhead tune IF needed after that.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin Great. Thanks. One more thing, I can't tell which way you're pointing your index vein when you're nocking your arrow before shooting. It looks like you have the same launching rest like I do. Some Research says to point the index vein fletching down when using a launching drop rest. Another Research says to point the index vein fletching up. Some others say to point the index fletching away from the riser. I ran a test by spray white powder on my fletchings and nocked my arrow in all 3 ways. Shot an arrow with index vein pointed away from riser, index vein pointed up and index vein pointed down. It looks like my fletchings made contact with my rubber arrow holder in front of my rest when I had the index vein pointed away from the riser and when I had it pointed down.
When I shot with the index vein pointed up, no contact was made so is that the correct way I should nock my arrow or which was should your arrow fletchings face?
@@bobbydenezza7795 the correct way is whatever way the arrows make zero contact! I usually shoot vanes that are all the same color.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin thanks
HEY ALL. Any questions, comment below! Or message me on Instagram. Video 1 and Video 2 are linked in the bio. Thanks as always for liking, subscribing and commenting!
Great series! Thank you!
Thanks for checking it out!
Nice way to explain!!! 👍
I'm glad u let people know that u don't shoot @ 80 yards to hunt @ 80 yards. 80 yard practice makes tge 30-40 yard range a piece of cake. I'm curious on the specs on your arrows. Like the total weight in grains & your FOC%?
Thanks. Off handedly I don't recall the exact weight, but they are 350s, with a 50 grain insert and 100 grain tips. Probably between 420 and 440 if I had to guess.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin The last 3 years I have been investing alot of time making arrows from scratch. If u start from a clean foundation by the time u start shooting u will cut down greatly all the outliers. Someone that was more into hiking & fishing asked me a year ago about bowhunting. I told him u need to learn to be a good archer & have confidence b4 u become a bowhunter. I started out as a trapper & duck hunter. I simplified things when I noticed that I understood deer better. It wasn't as random with deer. I've been tweeking things over recent years & I have come to a conclusion. All I care about is what happens @ the point of impact. The closer the better. What I didn't expect is that with modern technology u r far better off shooting a deer like a guy with a shotgun does. I'm talking about quartering to where your maximum energy is upon impact on the front of the shoulder on a deer & exiting slightly lower behind the farside front shoulder. Kills them close quicker than a spine shot which I wouldn't never take. The setup is heavier inserts & broadheads on a micro arrow which is 300 spine even though I'm only shooting with 63 lbs. @ the max. Great arrow flight is the key. I build 6 @ a time & I'm currently working on putting precision match weight Firenocks into my system. I'm doing this right now on 2 different micro arrows. Only 3 will be lighted nocks. The other 12 will be identical in weight except they don't have the lighted function. I have never shot lighted nocks but for video purposes I will be in 2021. My 520+ grain arrows r giving me tighter groups where I don't have stray right or left shots. My sight setup is very open & it helps me w/o a rangefinder to know where I have to aim to hit my target.
I’m surprised you’d shoot more than one broadhead arrow into a target at a time.
Good video.
Only one broadhead. 2 field points.
Great video
Thank you sir. See first (pinned) comment if you are having issues.
I only practice with broadheads now, I feel I waste tons of time with field tips, my form is fine, its all about how the lethal arrow flys.
Hey folks, best time to buy the cheap layered broadheads target is January February. Walmart and academy are good places to look. I bought two delivered last Feb 2022 for $46. They weren’t the very worst construction but one will last me all fall probably.
Great job, we love you ln California
Thank you Greg!
Hay man I’m a member at the bowmen to these are good videos maybe we could do a few video together! Good this season
Ha! No way!
HI SIW, Please explain why you take the time to walk back tune and get the rest to perfect center shot. Then when you BH tune you take it out of the perfect centershot. It seems the two would be mutually exclusive? One you work to get the rest perfect then you knock it out of perfection. Also similar to Kolt I followed video (very well explained on all 3 vids) and found the BH hits to the right of the FP. I made micro adjustments to the rest left but both BH and FP move equally spaced to the left. If I had a panoramic target I could keep making adjustments and do a circle! lol.
Hey Cam, if you walk back tune at say 60-80 yards you rarely have to actually move your rest left/right. If you only walk back tune to say 40 yards, your walkback may not be precise enough, so when you broadhead tune it becomes a bit more precise. Now, if your BH and FP never come together, but just move over, try going back to center with your rest and make those small rest adjustments in the opposite direction. That will usually bring them together. Let me know if that makes sense.
What are the big targets behind it made out of? I’d love to make one
A bunch of tightly wrapped plastic.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin hell yeah, thanks for the reply brother! guess ill start finding and saving some plastic up. already lost about 4 arrows to the grass and tired of it haha
If u shoot ur field tip and it hits center and ur broadhead hits low,and u move it rest up wont that make ur field tip shoot high but the distance between the broadhead and the field tip be the same.
Sometimes yes, other times it will bring them closer together if it doesn't bring them together, try and bump the rest a little in the opposite direction.
Do you need to tune every different broadhead you use? Or just the one?
I only tune with one. But, that's because the Slick Tricks fly pretty true.
This sounds like a super time consuming way to tune a bow. Basically what your doing is making the arrow come off the rest perfectly straight, if it's not you will notice more impact shift with a broadhead than a field point. The much simpler way is just to paper tune the bow, it's much faster and works every time. I've never broadhead tuned, only paper tuned and my muzzy 3 blades always shoot in the same spot as my field points out to 60 yards which is as far as im sighted in for. If your not familiar with paper tuning look it up, it's super simple, quick, and only requires you to adjust your sight once.
Paper tuning is a starting point, as I stated in the first video of the series.
I bet you have a right helical on those arrows dont you. You can see at 5:55 your arrows come off and spin to the right then change back to the left right before impact. If you had a left helical on your arrows it would come off left and continue to spin that way all the way to the target. Get more spin,control, and forgiveness that way 🤘🏼
Interesting. I'll have to take a look at it and test it out. I wonder if it's an optical illusion as the arrow gets into focus?
@@SomewhereInWisconsin ruclips.net/video/nxV_11gFzGo/видео.html
It definitely changes direction mid flight. Check this video out. Been doing it this way for years and it does add a touch more forgiveness 👍
I've seen another video where someone else was talking about how to broadhead tune and this guy was saying if you shoot your field point and its money and hits the bullseye and you shoot your broadhead and your broad head hits to the right of the field point, he's saying to move your rest to the right (towards your broadhead). In this video you're saying to move your rest towards the field point and not towards your broadhead.
Which one is it?
I have had success doing both in tiny increments. If you do the modified French tune and then walk back, you may not need to adjust anything. I misspoke in this video, (I think I pinned a comment). So try what the other guy suggested, but if it doesn't work, don't be afraid to try the other way as well.
My range is only 30 yards or so, so if I get everything perfect at 30....will I be off at 40+? I’m shooting a 60lb carbon rx-4 with trophy ridge react pro single pin and a micro adjust hamskea limb drivin rest
You very well could be. I always broadhead tune a a little farther than I'm willing to shoot at a live animal.
can you tell what type of camera you are filming with?
Hey. For this video I used my Canon SL2 (DSLR), with an 18-135mm lens.
Hi! I'm fairly new to broadhead tuning, and I just had a question, my broadheads were hitting left of my field points at 40 yards, so when I moved my rest over slightly to the right, it pushed my field points over 3 inches to the right. Now my broadheads fly amazing and my field points arent even close. Bow has been paper tuned to shoot bullet holes. Is there anything you can suggest to fix my field point flying way off?
Thanks!
Hey Kolt, did your FP and Broadhead move closer together? If so, give another tiny bump on the rest in the same direction. Another option, is to bump your rest slightly left (instead of right) and see if that brings both together. I have had success doing it the way I describe in the vid, but others have done the opposite and also had success.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin Hi thank you for your response! It did not bring my points and broadheads together, it seemed my broadhead was 2-3 inches left to begin with, and after my adjustment it just moved everything over 2-3" to the right. It didnt actually bring anything closer together. But i will give that a shot! Thanks
@@kolt3273 try to bump it back to starting point, then go a smidge in the opposite direction.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin I took your advice, brought it back to starting position, gave it a nudge left, and now everything flies together, thanks so much for your help!
@@kolt3273 Awesome! I am so glad that worked out! Shoot straight, good luck this year.
Does lining up the blades with the fletchings/vanes really make a difference??
Hard to say. I shoot a 3 Fletch arrow and a 4 blade head. I know plenty of guys that line em up, and I know plenty more that screw them on and shoot. Personal preference and confidence.
@@SomewhereInWisconsin It's not so much about lining up the blades with the vanes. It IS, however, very important to make sure each broadhead is identically oriented on each arrow so that when the arrows come off the bow, each broadhead catches the air the same. If you subscribe to the theory (and I do) that the blades steer the front of the arrow, then you want each arrow being "steered" identically.
Russell Langworthy if you’re shooting a weak spined arrow, I agree with you. Move up to a stiffer spined high foc arrow and tune it to your bow. You’ll see that issue go away.
Hi thanks for the video.. I have a question, I keep hitting 3" to the right at 40 yards with my BH and I can't move my rest any further to the left any thoughts....
Yes, go back to center. Then try and move the rest the other way. I have had luck going the way I described in the video for very small movements, but others say to move in the opposite direction. Let me know if that works!
What brand of target is that?
That's a Rinehart 18-1
How does that work for a 1 pin sight?
Walk back? Set your pin at 20. Shoot a group. Leave it at 20, and walk back ton40 and 50 and shoot a group.
Dude the mosquitos in Wisconsin are killer
That time if year, they are. Luckily we have had some frosts, so they are pretty much done for the year.
Somewhere In Wisconsin yeah I saw that. What part of Wisconsin are you in?
@@Nick1-22 I live in SE WI.
Somewhere In Wisconsin nice. My cousins live in clintonville about 45 minutes from greenbay
Sorry but your windage rest adjustment is backwards. BH impact left means you're tail right at launch. So you have to move the rest to the LEFT.
Watch this vid at 2:40. Exactly how I explain it. ruclips.net/video/lQQnc1axz9U/видео.html
Or this Easton Tuning Guide. images.app.goo.gl/xBDvqrqecMpNY8uG6
Some bows are opposite , for me a Mathews is opposite to my xpedition.... No idea why, but it is...
@Boxing 101 Do you really need to be so rude? You can be polite and still make your point. Being polite, people will take you more seriously. Ok, now bash me, right?
@Boxing 101 Thanks for the commentary. You seem like a real expert. Hope we cross paths someday. You can set me straight about how not to be a princess.
Your moving your rest the wrong way!! If broadheads plane left that would be a tare right through paper which you would be move the rest to the left to correct!! You always move your rest toward the broadheads for horizontal and opposite the broadheads for vertical!! Bad advice here people are going to be chasing there tales doing it that way and wonder why they arnt getting anywhere!! Again horizontal move toward the broadheads vertical move toward the field point!
You are correct!
Won’t shoot a deer over 40 yards? Next video.
I didn't say you shouldn't. I said I won't. I'm a solid shot and shoot year round. And could definitely kill a deer at 60+. I just dont feel a need to shoot that far personally. At a deer.