How To Broadhead Tune Arrows
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- With hunting season right around the corner, it's time to make sure your arrows will fly straight with broadheads. Trail goes over the steps he takes to broadhead tune his arrows.
If you have any questions please leave a comment below and one of our gear experts will be sure to answer!
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Finally, a video that's educational and not some cocky guy that knows it all! Thanks
When I was indexing arrows I’d take bare shafts and stick nocks in each end 90 degrees from one another then stick them in a tub of warm soapy water. The stiffest/heavy part of the arrow would always in my case roll to the bottom. I’d mark the top sticking out of the water with a sharpie and that’s where I’d eventually put my cocking vane. Before fletching I’ll bare shaft/nock tune each one and more often than not it’s the part of the arrow that would roll to the bottom in the water that was the index of the arrow. I also take an inch off the back of each arrow before making the carbon to carbon measurements for final cut than squaring is an absolute must for fixed blades. Thanks for a great video content, it sure is a process getting your equipment ready for that opportunity we all strive for.
Jordan, thanks for the added tip. That’ll go into my next set of arrows...
I put a number on each arrow! Ion the fleching! Shoot it, and remember that number...cause I shoot about 4 each time. Then judge from there ehat to do! Great vid gents!!
Numbering the arrows is always a good thing to do to keep track of the flyers, then adjust from there with nock tuning.
@Boxing 101 for sure!
I used to work as a machinist for aerospace and I can tell you if you really want to test that straightness. You can go out and buy a .0005 indicator and check the tip of the arrow as you spin and you can tell if it’s straight or not.
Good job, finally a video that is truly helpful. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
I know its debatable and everyone has a different takes on it, but i really like that 12% FOC range for consistent, clean flight for "fixed blade designs."
This is really interesting. I learned about nock tuning bare shafts at a distance of 8 feet from Andy May on a podcast. However I've had arrows that start to loose consistency at 60 yards. Does this mean that even though you could nock tune with a bare shaft, you could still encounter irregular flight at distance? Or does nock tuning at 8 feet ensure proper arrow flight at a 60 yard distance, and what I'm seeing is the result of things I need to tighten up in my form?
Thanks for sharing your easily repeatable steps to check the straightness of the arrows you use in conjunction with your broadheads that you use. Carbon arrows are not always perfect even if you are spending $60+ on a pack of 6. Have you ever paper tuned your bow and arrow set up? I have seen some other archers like Corey Jacobsen and some others to really dial it in with their rests, sights, arrow weight, etc... I too do the number trick on the fletchings to keep track and see which ones seem to be flying the most consistent and those that are marked as 1s get to go on a ride in my quiver.
Oh and I noticed this was posted Aug. 5th and you said you got that pronghorn archery tag in Nevada with the season starting Aug. 1st. So you are probably out there chasing speed goats, using terrain and shrubbery as well as patterning them to put on that stalk. I can't see you sitting water the whole time or at all. Good luck. Spot and Stalk archery pronghorn is definitely an Ultimate Western Big Game Challenge in a unique way.
Great broadhead tuning video. Thanks
Hey! Thank you for the suggestion. That is a great idea! We will work on that. 💪
Great video man, just came across your channel now, subscribed too!!!
Thanks for watching!
I couldn't see the wobble at all. I watched it several times and still couldn't see it. I'm impressed with your preparation!
Yeah we tried our best to show it with the camera, but it's pretty tough to see it actually wobbling without being there in person. Probably the best way to really see it, is to put the tip of the arrow against a wall or cardboard to see the inconsistency as it spins. It makes it easier to track it.
Dang trail. That's deep. I would love to spend a weekend with u shooting man, watching u shoot on video u shoot well. Be nice to learn some more stuff like that. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Austin! Much appreciated!
Flexing an arrow sounds good but will that really work the next day you shoot
Thanks for sharing!
appreciate the insight my friend!
great video
Thanks Trail. You're good at these types of videos.
Great video! I learned a lot from it
Thanks for watching Carl! Let us know if you ever have any questions about something!
Trail, what's your opinion on two blade vs three blade? Have you seen any big differences between the two?
If you are the type of person who switched from a fixed blade to expandable due to flight you have a million possible problems. Choosing an expandable should be after you have perfect flight. Could be you bought cheap arrows, theyre not square, you dont release properly, you have face contact, you have the wrong spine.... thats not a solution, its a crutch. Tune your gear.
It’s more than likely that your bows not tuned, ie. timing, paper tune. Centershot
Great tech video!! Keep these coming.
Thanks for watching!
Man this vid was helpful and thorough!! Thanks!
Glad to hear it!
do i have to glue the collars and inserts first ? or just put the inserts and collars not glued and screw in the broadhead to test ?
Do you knock tune bare shaft and this would be a second knock adjustment? Or do you wait until the broad heads are on before timing those? Thanks for the video.
When I set up a dozen arrows, I square an end then cut the other. I then square that cut end and cut the other..so I'm cutting length from both ends. Then I square the last end I cut and at that point I have a squared cut raw shaft from each end. Then I glue my insets in and at that point I do often insert nocks and field tips and shoot each arrow bare shaft and turn nocks to try to get the best flight on each arrow. This is assuming I believe I have a well tuned bow already. Then I fletch accordingly and shoot them. When I add a broadhead I'll shoot each arrow and see where it hits. I may need to turn a nock here and there again, and I also sometimes have to flex the broadhead end to get the wobble out. Between all those steps, it's time consuming, but it gives you good confidence in your setup...both arrows and bow tune.
Great video! Keep up the good work
Thank you!! Best of luck this season.
Is that video on your channel of that guy shooting a bull fighting another bull? I'd love to watch it if you can gimme a link or video number. Thanks!
Heck yeah! Here is a link to that video: ruclips.net/video/KbMYlwlwTbI/видео.html
good stuff! thanks
What is a good broadhead target?
Nice vid
What insert were you using the aluminum or stainless steel?
Hey Austin, passed the question over to Trail!
In this scenario, I was using the stock aluminum insert with the gold aluminum collar that comes with a Gold Tip pierce arrow. This year I am testing a Gold Tip Platinum Pierce 300 spine arrow with an Easton Titanium 4mm half-out insert and although they are expensive I am initially really impressed with their tolerances and toughness and will probably go that route this year.
Hope this helps, let us know if you have any other questions!
Great Informational Video.....Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! But this is the reason I switched from fixed to mechanical broadheads a couple years ago. Much more forgiving flight
I’ve always found if I set centershot and align the power stroke of my cams, I can shoot broadheads and fieldspoints together our to 50-60 yards no problem.
An untuned bow will cause your broadheads to not group with your fieldpoints in which guys will “sight in” their broadheads. This is not correct and is my a bandaid to the real issue at hand.
good stuff
Who makes nice arrows spinners besides Firenock?
If I only had more time I would help you out here. Maybe Tomorrow if I remember
?
Can you give me the link for the broad heads and also the arrows. I can’t seem to be able to find those broadheads
These are the Gold Tip Platinum Pierce Arrows with the QAD Exodus Fixed Blade Broadheads. You can find the broadheads here in our Gear Shop: shop.gohunt.com/products/qad-exodus-broadheads
Thanks for watching!
I think you’re picking the fly shit out of the pepper. If you can manipulate that arrow that easily what happens when you put it in & take it out of your quiver. Better yet what happens when you put it on the ground or in the back of your truck or back seat. Just saying. I think it’s psychological. You can probably make it change a couple hundred thousands of an inch.
Agreed. When it all comes down to it, confidence is everything!
Great video, thanks for sharing with us. I shoot the 5mm FMJs. Can I flex the inconsistencies out of these as well, or is this method only for carbon shafts?
Goes for any type of arrow!
Do you have any videos on cutting arrows and fetching them? Good stuff
We do not at this time. But we have one in the works where Brady Miller goes step by step into his process that we will try to get out there soon. You can always check out these articles Brady wrote here:
www.gohunt.com/read/how-to-build-the-perfect-arrow-part-1
www.gohunt.com/read/how-to-build-the-perfect-arrow-part-two
Is that mostly for fixed blades?
you can spin mechanical broadhead tipped arrows as well, even though they are suppose to closely resemble the flight of a field point. You are checking the straightness of the carbon arrow more than anything, to see if there are any slight imperfections in that shaft.
Yes this is mostly for fixed blades, but the same can still apply for expandable broadheads.
How important is it to have your blades lined up to your vanes? What about a single bevel?
No, I do not think it matters that much. I have shot them lined up and without them lined up and I see no difference in impact point.
-Trail Kreitzer
@@GOHUNT It's not as important having them aligned with your vains as it is having them all aligned identically. That way, when they come off your bow, they're all catching the air equally and react the same.
How can you guarantee they will remain balanced? How did they get out of balance in the first place? Once they've been shot they flex anyway so I'm not convinced this is necessary. Just curious.
He's not actually changing the straightness of the arrow but he's bending the aluminum insert to get back in alignment with the shaft.
@@AndrewCawley Aha. That makes sense. Thank you sir.
@@optimus1212 You're most welcome 😊
Thanks for the great content.
You bet Mark!
You watched the vains? While they spun?...
Most of the time you want to focus on the spin of the broadhead. If you see some wobble in the broadhead while it spins you'll need to tune it.
@@GOHUNT ok ive never used one of those I appreciate it.
I like to spine align my shafts first thing….
Right down the pipe!
But at 100 half dozen they should be straight and spin true
I'm still so confused
No bare shaft tune?
For sure, typically start out with a paper tune and then shooting bare shafts. This is just a little tip to help get the broadheads hitting where you want them to.
Your OCD is killing me lol
Haha it's all in the details!
OCD trumps luck any day
Solo en español porfabor
How do you get that close to an elk and not to a whitetail?
More likely the arrow is straight and the broad head isn’t perfectly balanced. 😂 mYou don’t have a wall here today?
Good info!