With the electrical side of things progressing well I'm now able to put in a control panel. I also take a look at the uncoupling system I'll be using. Enjoy.
You're a good teacher Richard! I'm learning a great deal from your videos. As I am building a new layout in my basement I'll need all of the help I can get. It is my first serious layout and I want it right. Thanks!
Would like to say a big thank you for your updates and tutorials. I find your work, as well as other channels, perfect for tips and instructions in my research for when i eventually get the space and time to attempt a layout of my own. thank you very much & i look forward to your next update - cheers Dave
Great update, very pleased you showed a decent explanation of the uncoupling, I have been trying to find an explanation for the ordinary mortal for ages and here one is. I am sold on the control panel route now, I will forget about the notion of DCCing them, the manual control panel looks to be much more fun
Thanks so much for taking the time to share your experience in this series. I've really loved seeing the carriage sidings come together and I've learned loads for when I start putting together my layout.
You probably dont give a shit but does someone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any tricks you can give me
@Samuel Imran I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I looked at Kaydees, DGs and Sprat and Winkle when deciding some years back on an uncoupling system. In the end I went for DGs as it is a delayed system. You can place just one magnet at the start of a fan of sidings and uncouple using an electromagnet. The stock can then be uncoupled by simply continuing and pulling the loco off when required. The only snag is...you have to assemble them!! Cheers, Bob
Hi Richard, I always find your videos and explanatory interesting and informative, I bought a locomotive at the model train exhibition here in (Perth Western Australia), and a track cleaning car with the same couplers you have, they are a lot neater looking, I now know how they are uncoupled thanks to your video. I'm still learning and wanting to build a decent layout, at the moment I have a Hornby DCC mixed freight with twin ovals modified with some turn outs set up on the floor for now. Cheers, look forward to see more updates on your layout extension. Regards Gary 😊
Nice video Richard, that coupling system certainly looks interesting and useful. The control panel stuff was also very useful. Thanks for sharing! Joe.
+Joe Jabczynski Just about all of the American manufacturers have converted to Kadee couplers, or their make of it for HO and N scale. Most American modelers model freight, and desire to shunt them without using the hand of God, especially when you wished to do so out of reach. Outside of a few urban areas we don't have many passenger trains. The British have better passenger rail service than Americans have bus service in the rural areas. While the manufacturers were slow to convert, slowly one at a time did as the American modelers insisted, and were converting anyway on their own. Only very old models have HO hook-horns, and N Rapido couplers. While US Bachmann have converted, notice UK Bachmann/Graham Parish have not for N scale, except for HO/OO Thomas and Friends line which use the British couplers.
I didn't know that to be honest. Now you mention it though, I have noticed the 'model railroading' groups on facebook tend to show a lot of freight workings. I've found that as I've got more into the hobby, my freight collection has grown! I think we are slowly starting to catch up with coupling systems as I've seen kadees starting to appear in our shops. I think this video shows just how effective kadees are and I'll definitely be making the change soon! Cheers, Joe.
Just been watching your videos. You stated in this video that some people are criticizing things that you are doing or saying?? I think you are doing a GREAT JOB and I'm learning a lot from you! Keep up the great work
Nice video. About the magnets, rectangular ones should really do the trick. I plan myself to use rectangular magnets with an uncoupling area of about 4 to 6 "ties". Another way to uncouple, manually this time, is with a wooden stick. Use a square section wooden stick, sharpen the end in a pyramid, then cut the last three mm of the point and round it. I introduce it between the jaws of the Kadee, turn it first clockwise then counterclockwise. The coupler then opens and the wagons (or here the coaches) are uncoupled... If you then glue the stick to a small pen-size flashlight, then you can also light the couplers when working in dark areas (or in a "night" environment). I saw that in an old Model Railroader, and after testing found out it worked quite well. Thanks though for this serie of videos. They're really usefull for me as I'm planning a small exhibition layout and I'm quite a nonentity in electricity and electronics (just know that I must not cross plus and minus or I'll transform my layout in an electric toaster ;-) Landscape, weathering and structure scratchbuilding are more my forte than track laying, electricity and mechanics... Eric.
the dcc point clips are called twerps by us S&T. we form a coil of bond wire for expansion around a ball hammer and knock them in with bond pins. great channel, just started watching. thinking of doing an NGauge layout. if you need any reference photos or have any technical questions, let me know. i notice lots of location cases on the layout that you call relay boxes, so you have a relay room on the layout. typically found next to the signal box of brick or prefab construction. Lee Crewe S&T
Excuse the late comment on this great series. When checking for interference between the uncoupled stock in a siding and passing point, the vehicle with the longest distance between the bogies should be used to check for 'cutting the corner'. Hence a coach (or the longest loco, if longer) would check for underhang. Overhang (beyond the bogie) might also be an effect (like a 4-4-0) , but is much less likely, even with Mk4 coaches.
Brilliant video again Richard. I have a couple of queries. a) Why Two magnets? b) what about Polarity, does it matter which way up the magnets are and do they have to be the same way up or one up and one down? c) when you get your rectangular magnets can you please explain all this in the video. Keep up the Excellent work Richard, you are my main inspiration on all this technical stuff. The beauty of your videos is the way you explain it all in a way that can be understood by total novices like myself. This is Really appreciated. Kind regards. John.
Hiya the norm in the UK where this great layout is, is for AC even if it's 15v brown L and blue N. For the DC 12v it's red + and black - other colours as supplied, i.e. green frog etc. Why not use the anti-rotation luge on the points control switches. That little bit sticking up off the washer with the lug on the inside that goes into the groove in the threaded barrel, that stops the washer moving and a correct sized hole will fit the lug you've got pointing up allowing it to point down into the board and stop the switch rotating. Yes an extra hole per switch but small points lol, but they help the final finish. Those black cable clamps are 20mm conduit saddles. A pair of ratchet crimp pliers cost £18ish and will weld the wire inside the crimp, better than solder.
Fantastic work as always one thing you are definitely missing is a set of trap points leaving the yard I can think of no depots that I drive onto that doesn't have traps points protecting stray movements onto the main line
Great work, very well done, & I have a suggestion, regarding cutting the bar from the motors. Would you consider putting a small washer over the bar down onto the track which would, I think ensure when you cut there would be a small piece protruding up.
+EverardJunction An useful function of Kadee's is that you can uncouple them, then push back and push them with the 'heel' of the coupling. It means, that if you had a set in the station area, you could uncouple, then push backwards into your carriage sidings without coupling up to the coaches. Or, you could push from the terminating end of the carriage sidings, into the station, then simply move away without coupling up again.
Nice job Richard, the uncoupling system is a clever idea, I like it a lot. As an ex technician I couldn't help but think you would have been much better off using a socket rather than a pair of pliers to tighten up the switch securing nuts! Lol! Very much looking forward to the next video in the series. All the best Howard.
The yard is coming along nicely. Great job. I use proto type Kadee's for my trains. I think Kadee's are the best made couplers. Different to see them being used on the other side of the pond. See every one using the normal couplers. I hear some people complaining those type of magnets are too strong. I see them put in sets of 4 or 6 to make them long enough to uncouple. I used the Kadee magnets but thinking of putting in electric ones. Have you ever thought of using servo motors for the switches. I have been looking into them and many people are saying they are great. I noticed one small thing when you put the toggle switches in, that you put the lock washer on first. It should have been the flat washer and then the lock one then the nut. Not that it will make a difference but I thought I would point it out. Scott
Scott Downey Thanks Scott. I've thought about servo type point motors many times. Problem is they are quite expensive and the solenoid one are so much cheaper. For now I'll stick with them but on a future layout I may use the servo types.
Another excellent video. Of course. Yours always are. One small quibble though. In a prototypical setup that final point out onto the "main line" should ideally have been controlled from the main or station box, not from the sidings box. I realise that's ever-so-slightly anorak of me but hey, we're all anoraks in our way, yeah? Keep up the good work.
The Kadee rectangular magnets normally go between the rails. I've never seen anyone put them under the rails. I'm curious to find out if that works better. Sometimes, when putting them between the rails, you have to remove some sleepers if you are using rail that is smaller than code 100.
avlisk Kadee make 2 types of magnets. One goes between the rails the other goes underneath. So far my magnets are working. They are quite powerful and need to be as there is a few mm between them and the kadee itself. They are also a far cheaper option and will remain hidden once the track is ballasted or concreted.
EverardJunction Live and learn. I never knew of that other type of magnet. Thanks, and please keep the videos coming. I really look forward to the updates.
This is an excellent series of videos, thank you for putting so much time and effort into making them. I have one question on the live frogs and insulated fishplates -Surely as a loco passes over the insulated joint, it will short across? Doesn't this cause a problem?
Nicely done! I imagine if you're going to want lighting to indicate direction on the control panel, you'll have to redesign in a little. Not a lot of room around some of those switches! ;) Also, I have a bit of a pet peeve with your wiring. Here in the states we have a kind of standard that earth (ground) is black. Since you're running as many of three power bus lines, I (personal preference) would probably change the color of the positive wire for each bus. For instance, track power red, lighting power white, third bus (I forget what you're using it for) yellow. Easy to keep track from underneath, especially on an extension such as this. Looking forward to the next installment! Cheers!
***** Thanks. Agree with the wiring. More colour coding would be helpful, I know what everything does and can easily troubleshoot it, but it does look a little confusing on camera.
hey ,if anyone else trying to find out building model railroad try Panlarko Amazing Railroad Planner (do a search on google ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my work buddy got great success with it.
I use RED for track power, BLACK for track negative/return. For point circuits I use WHITE for power and BLUE for negative/return. I use GREEN for frogs....some frogs are green, easy to remember! I use YELLOW for what I call ISFs or Insulated/Isolated Switch Feeds. Basically your track power isolating sections. I find this colour system works for me. For a third circuit I don't know. Maybe I'd use BROWN and a two colour wire or something. Only using capitals so it is easier to pick the colours out.
Thanks again for another great video. I noticed the buzzing sound when your point motors operate. I assume your using an AC supply, I found using DC with a CDU "capacitor discharge unit" gets rid of the buzz. Also with the CDU you can operate several point motors at once and save on switches on crossovers between lanes. Anyway, just an idea it, may be impracticable on your layout as a dedicated point motor power feed is needed unless you have a separate CDU for each control panel. Might be worth looking into, I believe you have an electronics background and they are easy to make just a few caps, transistor and basic components on a bread board. Ahhh, the magnets. I've had great trouble with these too. My problem has been unwanted uncoupling with passing trains. I ended up using Kadee #708 electro magnetic on main / passing lines and ceramic magnets only in sidings. I run N gauge but I'm sure there is a OO equivalent if you come across similar problems. Look forward to your next video, thanks again for taking the time to share. Stew
EverardJunction Interesting, originally I used 16v AC with momentary push buttons and noticed the buzzing sound. When I built a full wave "4 diode" rectifier and a capacitor discharge circuit the buzzing went away. Now my points operate with a snap instead of buzz regardless of how long the button is pressed. I realise it's no big deal and a matter of personal preference but after the buzzing was gone I realised it did slightly annoy me. I assumed the buzzing came from the AC polarity frequency. Also I use the peco solenoids not seep, not that it should make any difference. Maybe your DC supply is Half wave rectified ? It also might be the large Electrolytic cap I used across the output of my rectifier filtering out the pulses ? My electronics theory is pretty basic so I'm not really sure. Anyway, awesome layout, look forward to seeing more. Stew
Stewart D St Aldhelms Railway I'm quite sure the buzz is the point blades vibrating against the rail once the point has thrown. Now I have the CDU there is no power going to the motor by the time the point has reached its destination. Before on some points I could actually see the vibration in the blades when I held the switch for too long.
Love the videos and I'm looking forward to watching the rest! Why not use only one control switch for crossovers? One switch could be wired to a pair of points such that throwing it one way lines the points up for a crossover and throwing it the other way lines the point up for straight through. There will never be a time when one point of a pair making a crossover will be in a different state than the other point of the crossover.
A good set of videos. Nice to see a new section getting built from scratch. 2 questions, 1) Why do you not have a headshunt at the exit of the yard? In 1 of the earlier vids you had suggested coaches would be shunted about the yard for "cleaning" etc but doing so you would run the risk of fowling the branchline. 2) At areas where 2 points run into each other (e.g. mainline to branchline) why use 2 switchs for the point insted of 1 to throw both at the same time?
Tsurnari Thanks. In answer to your questions... 1) There isn't enough room to headshunt a rake of coaches. The coaches will be moved from the station to the sidings and stay in the chosen siding until they are required back at the station. 3 sidings will be cleaning and maintenance, 3 for storage. The only things that will be able to move about within the yard are dmus and shunters. 2) I will be doing that on the transfer between the branch and centre track. Accidentally drilled 2 holes in the control panel though so will fill and redo a single hole.
Another very informative video Richard - thank you so much as I'm doing my control panel now. But to digress what is that great music you use in the speed-up section? Thanks Mick
Your channel is always the best place to come for ideas and how to's, i probably wouldn't know what I'm doing if it wasn't for your videos. As I'm finishing one area of my layout off, i am at the stage where i am required to implement various details in order to gather the correct scene, as of this, i was unsure what you were using for the concrete signal cabling blocks which run round the perimeter of the track, are they matchsticks ?
Have you ever thought about running the layout in automatic mode ? With the switched controlled by a computer, which gets the position of the trains from current sensors. I would at least prepare the layout so it can be easily rewired to do that.
Hi Richard, Very informative video as usual. You mentioned kadee couplings. Were they easy to fit to all your locos / rolling stock? Did you need different types of kadee for different rolling stock? What specific kadee # did you use. Thanks. All my stuff is hornby.
See the switches you use....what kind are they? I see a lot about single throw double pole etc etc, what ones work with point motors? I use the Peco lever switches but no idea what they are! lol Also, where did you source these switches? I may use some for the fiddle yard 'should' I decide to use point motors in the future. Finally, do kadee not manufacture magnets to suit their couplings? Nice update! I am re-laying a part of my layout to make access to the fiddle yard. Check out my june updates....I also have a Deltic! Cheers. Dave
DaveClass47 Hi Dave. The switches are single pole double throw. Often advertised as (on) Off (on) toggle switches. I get them from rapid electronics as per most of my electrical supplies. Haven't seen the deltic vid yet, will check it out. Most free time is being spend under the layout at the moment. Cheers
is there a way of hooking up a couple of LED's to the switches so you know which track is where the point has been trowing to? I still learning my electronics but was thinking how if a point was thrown that it would let me know where the point was thrown to.
Great video - I have learned so much from this series. One question: for crossovers where two points are back-to-back so to speak, is there a reason for not wiring them both off of the same control panel switch?
Another excellent update, looking forward to you others. I do like the couplings you have used; can I ask what the part number of the Kadee uncoupling system you use is?
Simon Young At them moment i'm just using 2 - 3mm thick magnets bought from ebay. Kadee make various different uncouplers, but they are more expensive.
Lovely videos, is there a reason why you've got the lock washers on the point switches upside down? Usually, the little tab sticks downwards into the panel, to stop the lock washer from rotating. Maybe you turned them over when you put the overlay on the points control panel and it's in a different video.
Actually these are anti-rotation washers, the washer goes behind the panel and the tab into a blind hole in the panel. It's meant for situations of high vibration. It is clearly not needed here, you do not need to fit them.
I don't like the large gloppy look of the plastic insulated rail joiners. When I want to isolate a rail I cut the track with a thin saw and insert a piece of plastic in the cut and then use "super glue" to bond it. It has always worked and then I can file the gap filler flush with the track and when whethered you can not see the gap or the filler.
I've just been watching your 2015 video about control panel building and am intrigues by the three way connectors you have used under your layout to attach droppers to bus wires. I have been searching for something similar but cannot find any on the internet. Can you please help as to where I might find some? Thanks.
Excellent video Richard, really enjoying the series. Also how much clearance do you need between baseboards if the upper level has point motors attached to the underneath of it?
Hi The washers on a toggle switch which have the little right angled tab on them go underneath the fixing surface. They are designed to lock into an indent to help stop the switch turning! You seem to have fitted them to the top?
Hi Richard, I have been following this with great interest as I am setting up my layout, one question if you can help me with, I am just using the standard coupling that you see on most Hornby Coaches and Locos but I would like to switch to Kadee Couplings and I was hoping that you might be able to tell me I need to look for, do these just fit out of the box or is there any extra fittings needed, thanks for any help you can give.
John Morrow As long as your models are reasonably new (2005 and on) then its should be easy. New stuff has whats called a nem pocket that the coupling plugs into. Kadee make nem couplings that will just plug into place. I suggest using kadee 18s, 19s and 20s as they work well on tighter corners.
Thanks for your help Richard, I will have a look at some couplings and possibly order a few to try out first before going mad and buying loads of them, thanks again for your help.
Simon when I was viewing your rolling stock video which consist of a very varied stock, a question came to mind, my loco fleet is old and some of them have a "D" as a prefix and when the TOPS system was introduce these numbers were updated. Looking at them now I am a little puzzled as to whats what. My only guide to BR locos is the "Observer's book of British Steam Locomotives" first published in 1955 revised in1966 (my copy) which contains some early diesels. So my question is, what is the most complete guide covering all current UK motive power book that I can buy if it contains rolling stock all the better with a link to Web site as I live in Australia would be most helpfull.
Morgan Conroy There are literally hundreds of books about the prototype locos and equipment across their lives. The D prefix system is confusing, thats why BR got rid of it. All my knowledge has come from internet research. I have few few books so I can't really recommend much for you.
Can you elaborate on insulftog points & using points clips which I what I'm using - just three wires. Where exactly are 3 wires going when they leave motors? & to reiterate a previous question, how can you get a simple on/off toggle switch to do the job without burning out motor or are switches on - centre off - on switches. Please clarify. Thanks.
Terminals A and B go to your switch. Terminal C goes to the negative side of the capacitor discharge unit. If your not using a capacitor discharge unit terminal C needs to goes to 0v. Hope that helps.
Hello there, I'd like to do something similar to this - can you tell me please approx how long your board is on this siding and appox how much track i will need?
Of subject but as you are in a loft how do you stop buckling of the track i got a bad buckle on mine now since 35C yesterday. Even with windows open and fans running full pelt. It will take some repairing before the trains run again
Malcolm Walls I make sure to leave a small gap of 1 to 2mm at every join in the track to allow for expansion. Even with the very hot weather I haven't had any issues.
EverardJunction Well true but if you were say converting from medium to small tension locks would it be more expensive to convert to kadees? (assuming all the NEM pockets are there already)
waste of my time the title of what was to explained was A "CONTROL PANEL" and what we got was annoying music and a fast forward of nailing,drilling and a tour of a layout that had more to do with trackwork and uncoupling with kaydee what a joke
You're a good teacher Richard! I'm learning a great deal from your videos. As I am building a new layout in my basement I'll need all of the help I can get. It is my first serious layout and I want it right. Thanks!
Would like to say a big thank you for your updates and tutorials.
I find your work, as well as other channels, perfect for tips and instructions in my research for when i eventually get the space and time to attempt a layout of my own.
thank you very much & i look forward to your next update - cheers Dave
Great update, very pleased you showed a decent explanation of the uncoupling, I have been trying to find an explanation for the ordinary mortal for ages and here one is. I am sold on the control panel route now, I will forget about the notion of DCCing them, the manual control panel looks to be much more fun
Thanks so much for taking the time to share your experience in this series. I've really loved seeing the carriage sidings come together and I've learned loads for when I start putting together my layout.
You probably dont give a shit but does someone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any tricks you can give me
@Quincy Augustus Instablaster ;)
@Samuel Imran I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Samuel Imran it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my account !
@Quincy Augustus You are welcome :D
Very good instalment, really providing very useful information to consider and really helping with future planning, keep up the good work, Jack
Nice one Richard. Look forward to the next instalment.
I looked at Kaydees, DGs and Sprat and Winkle when deciding some years back on an uncoupling system. In the end I went for DGs as it is a delayed system. You can place just one magnet at the start of a fan of sidings and uncouple using an electromagnet. The stock can then be uncoupled by simply continuing and pulling the loco off when required. The only snag is...you have to assemble them!! Cheers, Bob
Hi Richard, I always find your videos and explanatory interesting and informative, I bought a locomotive at the model train exhibition here in (Perth Western Australia), and a track cleaning car with the same couplers you have, they are a lot neater looking, I now know how they are uncoupled thanks to your video. I'm still learning and wanting to build a decent layout, at the moment I have a Hornby DCC mixed freight with twin ovals modified with some turn outs set up on the floor for now. Cheers, look forward to see more updates on your layout extension.
Regards Gary 😊
Very good and clear exposition. The best how to site. Thanks.
Nice video Richard, that coupling system certainly looks interesting and useful. The control panel stuff was also very useful. Thanks for sharing!
Joe.
+Joe Jabczynski Just about all of the American manufacturers have converted to Kadee couplers, or their make of it for HO and N scale. Most American modelers model freight, and desire to shunt them without using the hand of God, especially when you wished to do so out of reach. Outside of a few urban areas we don't have many passenger trains. The British have better passenger rail service than Americans have bus service in the rural areas. While the manufacturers were slow to convert, slowly one at a time did as the American modelers insisted, and were converting anyway on their own. Only very old models have HO hook-horns, and N Rapido couplers. While US Bachmann have converted, notice UK Bachmann/Graham Parish have not for N scale, except for HO/OO Thomas and Friends line which use the British couplers.
I didn't know that to be honest. Now you mention it though, I have noticed the 'model railroading' groups on facebook tend to show a lot of freight workings. I've found that as I've got more into the hobby, my freight collection has grown! I think we are slowly starting to catch up with coupling systems as I've seen kadees starting to appear in our shops. I think this video shows just how effective kadees are and I'll definitely be making the change soon!
Cheers, Joe.
Excellent job, your way of explaining thing makes it easy to follow and enjoyable.
Just been watching your videos. You stated in this video that some people are criticizing things that you are doing or saying?? I think you are doing a GREAT JOB and I'm learning a lot from you! Keep up the great work
Nice video. About the magnets, rectangular ones should really do the trick. I plan myself to use rectangular magnets with an uncoupling area of about 4 to 6 "ties".
Another way to uncouple, manually this time, is with a wooden stick. Use a square section wooden stick, sharpen the end in a pyramid, then cut the last three mm of the point and round it. I introduce it between the jaws of the Kadee, turn it first clockwise then counterclockwise. The coupler then opens and the wagons (or here the coaches) are uncoupled... If you then glue the stick to a small pen-size flashlight, then you can also light the couplers when working in dark areas (or in a "night" environment). I saw that in an old Model Railroader, and after testing found out it worked quite well.
Thanks though for this serie of videos. They're really usefull for me as I'm planning a small exhibition layout and I'm quite a nonentity in electricity and electronics (just know that I must not cross plus and minus or I'll transform my layout in an electric toaster ;-) Landscape, weathering and structure scratchbuilding are more my forte than track laying, electricity and mechanics...
Eric.
Eric Sainte Thanks Eric, hopefully the rectangular magnets should do the trick.
Again very useful video Richard, got all these thing to sort on mine soon, but you giving me loads of great ideas Andy
Awesome video. If you wanted to use a controllable decoupling magnet you could consider trying an electromagnet. I use them often and it works well.
the dcc point clips are called twerps by us S&T. we form a coil of bond wire for expansion around a ball hammer and knock them in with bond pins. great channel, just started watching. thinking of doing an NGauge layout. if you need any reference photos or have any technical questions, let me know. i notice lots of location cases on the layout that you call relay boxes, so you have a relay room on the layout. typically found next to the signal box of brick or prefab construction. Lee Crewe S&T
Cool operation and the upgrade is coming along nicely.
Hi Richard, I am learning such a lot from your 5 star videos. Your introduction clip looks so real. Excellent.
Barry. Devon
very interesting..Really enjoy your updates.
Excuse the late comment on this great series. When checking for interference between the uncoupled stock in a siding and passing point, the vehicle with the longest distance between the bogies should be used to check for 'cutting the corner'. Hence a coach (or the longest loco, if longer) would check for underhang. Overhang (beyond the bogie) might also be an effect (like a 4-4-0) , but is much less likely, even with Mk4 coaches.
Brilliant video again Richard. I have a couple of queries. a) Why Two magnets? b) what about Polarity, does it matter which way up the magnets are and do they have to be the same way up or one up and one down?
c) when you get your rectangular magnets can you please explain all this in the video.
Keep up the Excellent work Richard, you are my main inspiration on all this technical stuff. The beauty of your videos is the way you explain it all in a way that can be understood by total novices like myself. This is Really appreciated. Kind regards. John.
That's puckin' clever that, those magnets!
Nice work and very comprehensible explanations (as always). Keep up your good style!
Thank you. You have teased me into digging out my stuff again...subbed because I needed the help and here it is
Hiya the norm in the UK where this great layout is, is for AC even if it's 15v brown L and blue N. For the DC 12v it's red + and black - other colours as supplied, i.e. green frog etc. Why not use the anti-rotation luge on the points control switches. That little bit sticking up off the washer with the lug on the inside that goes into the groove in the threaded barrel, that stops the washer moving and a correct sized hole will fit the lug you've got pointing up allowing it to point down into the board and stop the switch rotating. Yes an extra hole per switch but small points lol, but they help the final finish.
Those black cable clamps are 20mm conduit saddles.
A pair of ratchet crimp pliers cost £18ish and will weld the wire inside the crimp, better than solder.
Great stuff as usual - thanks for this series - looking forward to more..........!
Regards, Alasdair
Great video as always. very informative, thanks for sharing your ideas and experience.
Regards,
Robert
Keep up the good work. All looking good.
Fantastic work as always one thing you are definitely missing is a set of trap points leaving the yard I can think of no depots that I drive onto that doesn't have traps points protecting stray movements onto the main line
Steve Lindley All planned for, I will be making my own as the entrance is on a curve and the RTR trap points are straight.
Great work, very well done, & I have a suggestion, regarding cutting the bar from the motors. Would you consider putting a small washer over the bar down onto the track which would, I think ensure when you cut there would be a small piece protruding up.
+EverardJunction An useful function of Kadee's is that you can uncouple them, then push back and push them with the 'heel' of the coupling.
It means, that if you had a set in the station area, you could uncouple, then push backwards into your carriage sidings without coupling up to the coaches.
Or, you could push from the terminating end of the carriage sidings, into the station, then simply move away without coupling up again.
Not specific to this video but while I'm here, "Well done" on the Magazine feature Richard it made good reading! Best wishes. Robert at RML
Nice job Richard, the uncoupling system is a clever idea, I like it a lot. As an ex technician I couldn't help but think you would have been much better off
using a socket rather than a pair of pliers to tighten up the switch securing nuts! Lol! Very much looking forward to the next video in the series.
All the best
Howard.
Howard Sugars I am a technician. All my sockets are at work, I forgot to bring one home when I did this :)
Ahh I see, luckily I was a mobile technician so all my tools were in my van when I was at home, now they just sit in the shed! Lol! :)
Very easy to understand and I am a novice, good stuff, thanks.
The yard is coming along nicely. Great job. I use proto type Kadee's for my trains. I think Kadee's are the best made couplers. Different to see them being used on the other side of the pond. See every one using the normal couplers. I hear some people complaining those type of magnets are too strong. I see them put in sets of 4 or 6 to make them long enough to uncouple. I used the Kadee magnets but thinking of putting in electric ones. Have you ever thought of using servo motors for the switches. I have been looking into them and many people are saying they are great. I noticed one small thing when you put the toggle switches in, that you put the lock washer on first. It should have been the flat washer and then the lock one then the nut. Not that it will make a difference but I thought I would point it out.
Scott
Scott Downey Thanks Scott. I've thought about servo type point motors many times. Problem is they are quite expensive and the solenoid one are so much cheaper. For now I'll stick with them but on a future layout I may use the servo types.
amazing guide well done enjoyin the time lapse music
this will help me ALOT, especially the control panel!
thanks again, love the work!!!! :)
Another excellent video. Of course. Yours always are.
One small quibble though. In a prototypical setup that final point out onto the "main line" should ideally have been controlled from the main or station box, not from the sidings box.
I realise that's ever-so-slightly anorak of me but hey, we're all anoraks in our way, yeah? Keep up the good work.
The Gods Right-Hand Man Quite correct, however my other control panel didn't have space on it so I've compromised. Thanks
your taste in music is excellent ... the track is looking good too ;-)
Had a feeling you'd have it in hand Richard 😉
The Kadee rectangular magnets normally go between the rails. I've never seen anyone put them under the rails. I'm curious to find out if that works better. Sometimes, when putting them between the rails, you have to remove some sleepers if you are using rail that is smaller than code 100.
avlisk Kadee make 2 types of magnets. One goes between the rails the other goes underneath. So far my magnets are working. They are quite powerful and need to be as there is a few mm between them and the kadee itself. They are also a far cheaper option and will remain hidden once the track is ballasted or concreted.
EverardJunction Live and learn. I never knew of that other type of magnet. Thanks, and please keep the videos coming. I really look forward to the updates.
avlisk Thanks. I have some better magnets on the way which should improve things. The next video will go up when they arrive.
This is an excellent series of videos, thank you for putting so much time and effort into making them. I have one question on the live frogs and insulated fishplates -Surely as a loco passes over the insulated joint, it will short across? Doesn't this cause a problem?
Love the backing music, Who is it please?
Layout is looking good to.
Kind regards.
Robert,
Very Interesting,many thanks.
Nicely done! I imagine if you're going to want lighting to indicate direction on the control panel, you'll have to redesign in a little. Not a lot of room around some of those switches! ;)
Also, I have a bit of a pet peeve with your wiring. Here in the states we have a kind of standard that earth (ground) is black. Since you're running as many of three power bus lines, I (personal preference) would probably change the color of the positive wire for each bus. For instance, track power red, lighting power white, third bus (I forget what you're using it for) yellow. Easy to keep track from underneath, especially on an extension such as this.
Looking forward to the next installment! Cheers!
***** Thanks. Agree with the wiring. More colour coding would be helpful, I know what everything does and can easily troubleshoot it, but it does look a little confusing on camera.
hey ,if anyone else trying to find out building model railroad try Panlarko Amazing Railroad Planner (do a search on google ) ? Ive heard some incredible things about it and my work buddy got great success with it.
I use RED for track power, BLACK for track negative/return. For point circuits I use WHITE for power and BLUE for negative/return. I use GREEN for frogs....some frogs are green, easy to remember!
I use YELLOW for what I call ISFs or Insulated/Isolated Switch Feeds. Basically your track power isolating sections.
I find this colour system works for me.
For a third circuit I don't know. Maybe I'd use BROWN and a two colour wire or something.
Only using capitals so it is easier to pick the colours out.
Thanks again for another great video.
I noticed the buzzing sound when your point motors operate. I assume your using an AC supply, I found using DC with a CDU "capacitor discharge unit" gets rid of the buzz. Also with the CDU you can operate several point motors at once and save on switches on crossovers between lanes. Anyway, just an idea it, may be impracticable on your layout as a dedicated point motor power feed is needed unless you have a separate CDU for each control panel. Might be worth looking into, I believe you have an electronics background and they are easy to make just a few caps, transistor and basic components on a bread board.
Ahhh, the magnets. I've had great trouble with these too. My problem has been unwanted uncoupling with passing trains. I ended up using Kadee #708 electro magnetic on main / passing lines and ceramic magnets only in sidings. I run N gauge but I'm sure there is a OO equivalent if you come across similar problems.
Look forward to your next video,
thanks again for taking the time to share.
Stew
Stewart D St Aldhelms Railway Thanks Stew. My motors are powered by 12DC. I've already installed some CDUs which will feature in the next part.
EverardJunction Interesting, originally I used 16v AC with momentary push buttons and noticed the buzzing sound. When I built a full wave "4 diode" rectifier and a capacitor discharge circuit the buzzing went away.
Now my points operate with a snap instead of buzz regardless of how long the button is pressed. I realise it's no big deal and a matter of personal preference but after the buzzing was gone I realised it did slightly annoy me.
I assumed the buzzing came from the AC polarity frequency. Also I use the peco solenoids not seep, not that it should make any difference. Maybe your DC supply is Half wave rectified ? It also might be the large Electrolytic cap I used across the output of my rectifier filtering out the pulses ? My electronics theory is pretty basic so I'm not really sure.
Anyway, awesome layout, look forward to seeing more.
Stew
Stewart D St Aldhelms Railway I'm quite sure the buzz is the point blades vibrating against the rail once the point has thrown. Now I have the CDU there is no power going to the motor by the time the point has reached its destination. Before on some points I could actually see the vibration in the blades when I held the switch for too long.
Very interesting video
Great video
Love the videos and I'm looking forward to watching the rest! Why not use only one control switch for crossovers? One switch could be wired to a pair of points such that throwing it one way lines the points up for a crossover and throwing it the other way lines the point up for straight through. There will never be a time when one point of a pair making a crossover will be in a different state than the other point of the crossover.
Just started watching part 6... nice to see the single switch for the crossovers. Cheers!
A good set of videos. Nice to see a new section getting built from scratch.
2 questions,
1) Why do you not have a headshunt at the exit of the yard? In 1 of the earlier vids you had suggested coaches would be shunted about the yard for "cleaning" etc but doing so you would run the risk of fowling the branchline.
2) At areas where 2 points run into each other (e.g. mainline to branchline) why use 2 switchs for the point insted of 1 to throw both at the same time?
Tsurnari more operational i think (to the second question) :)
Tsurnari Thanks. In answer to your questions...
1) There isn't enough room to headshunt a rake of coaches. The coaches will be moved from the station to the sidings and stay in the chosen siding until they are required back at the station. 3 sidings will be cleaning and maintenance, 3 for storage. The only things that will be able to move about within the yard are dmus and shunters.
2) I will be doing that on the transfer between the branch and centre track. Accidentally drilled 2 holes in the control panel though so will fill and redo a single hole.
Thanks for the reply.
Another very informative video Richard - thank you so much as I'm doing my control panel now. But to digress what is that great music you use in the speed-up section?
Thanks
Mick
Your channel is always the best place to come for ideas and how to's, i probably wouldn't know what I'm doing if it wasn't for your videos. As I'm finishing one area of my layout off, i am at the stage where i am required to implement various details in order to gather the correct scene, as of this, i was unsure what you were using for the concrete signal cabling blocks which run round the perimeter of the track, are they matchsticks ?
+InterCity24 Thanks. I use matchsticks as a base for cable trunking. On top I glue the lids which are cut from plasticard.
Have you ever thought about running the layout in automatic mode ? With the switched controlled by a computer, which gets the position of the trains from current sensors.
I would at least prepare the layout so it can be easily rewired to do that.
Videoman2000 Thats an expensive route to take. I would need many accessory decoders and other modules. I prefer to control the layout manually.
Hi Richard, Very informative video as usual.
You mentioned kadee couplings. Were they easy to fit to all your locos / rolling stock? Did you need different types of kadee for different rolling stock? What specific kadee # did you use. Thanks.
All my stuff is hornby.
cover it with carbon fiber wrap mate its good stuff
At the opposite end of the bus wires are you able to just plug them into a wall socket ?
you use the same flux as me, its good stuff even though its meant for plumbers lol
Isulfrogs it is, then. For me anyhoo 😁. All that wiring scares me. I still find it very daunting.
See the switches you use....what kind are they? I see a lot about single throw double pole etc etc, what ones work with point motors? I use the Peco lever switches but no idea what they are! lol
Also, where did you source these switches? I may use some for the fiddle yard 'should' I decide to use point motors in the future.
Finally, do kadee not manufacture magnets to suit their couplings?
Nice update! I am re-laying a part of my layout to make access to the fiddle yard. Check out my june updates....I also have a Deltic!
Cheers.
Dave
DaveClass47 Hi Dave. The switches are single pole double throw. Often advertised as (on) Off (on) toggle switches. I get them from rapid electronics as per most of my electrical supplies. Haven't seen the deltic vid yet, will check it out. Most free time is being spend under the layout at the moment. Cheers
+DaveClass47 Why are you using wire stripers?
Beautiful train
I didn't see any reference to the two small wires under the Peco electrofrog points. I assume you cut them as per Peco's instructions?
is there a way of hooking up a couple of LED's to the switches so you know which track is where the point has been trowing to? I still learning my electronics but was thinking how if a point was thrown that it would let me know where the point was thrown to.
with using centre off switches on your panel wouldn't it be a good idea to have led's showing which way the point is facing...just a thought.
Great video - I have learned so much from this series. One question: for crossovers where two points are back-to-back so to speak, is there a reason for not wiring them both off of the same control panel switch?
Disregard - I just watched the next episode. :) Cheers!
Another excellent update, looking forward to you others. I do like the couplings you have used; can I ask what the part number of the Kadee uncoupling system you use is?
Simon Young At them moment i'm just using 2 - 3mm thick magnets bought from ebay. Kadee make various different uncouplers, but they are more expensive.
Lovely videos, is there a reason why you've got the lock washers on the point switches upside down? Usually, the little tab sticks downwards into the panel, to stop the lock washer from rotating.
Maybe you turned them over when you put the overlay on the points control panel and it's in a different video.
Actually these are anti-rotation washers, the washer goes behind the panel and the tab into a blind hole in the panel. It's meant for situations of high vibration. It is clearly not needed here, you do not need to fit them.
Ok, thanks. I think I'd use them anyway, loose switches are so annoying!
I don't like the large gloppy look of the plastic insulated rail joiners. When I want to isolate a rail I cut the track with a thin saw and insert a piece of plastic in the cut and then use "super glue" to bond it. It has always worked and then I can file the gap filler flush with the track and when whethered you can not see the gap or the filler.
I've just been watching your 2015 video about control panel building and am intrigues by the three way connectors you have used under your layout to attach droppers to bus wires. I have been searching for something similar but cannot find any on the internet. Can you please help as to where I might find some? Thanks.
Excellent video Richard, really enjoying the series. Also how much clearance do you need between baseboards if the upper level has point motors attached to the underneath of it?
JamesStJunction I allow about 7 inches, but the more the better as installing the motors can very difficult with the limited space.
Cheers thanks for that.
Hi
The washers on a toggle switch which have the little right angled tab on them go underneath the fixing surface. They are designed to lock into an indent to help stop the switch turning! You seem to have fitted them to the top?
Brian Lambert Thanks, didn't know that. Pictures of them conflict with each other and they came with no instructions so I just guessed.
Hi Richard, I have been following this with great interest as I am setting up my layout, one question if you can help me with, I am just using the standard coupling that you see on most Hornby Coaches and Locos but I would like to switch to Kadee Couplings and I was hoping that you might be able to tell me I need to look for, do these just fit out of the box or is there any extra fittings needed, thanks for any help you can give.
John Morrow As long as your models are reasonably new (2005 and on) then its should be easy. New stuff has whats called a nem pocket that the coupling plugs into. Kadee make nem couplings that will just plug into place. I suggest using kadee 18s, 19s and 20s as they work well on tighter corners.
Thanks for your help Richard, I will have a look at some couplings and possibly order a few to try out first before going mad and buying loads of them, thanks again for your help.
Why don't they use electro magnets so you can uncouple where and when you want ?
Simon when I was viewing your rolling stock video which consist of a very varied stock, a question came to mind, my loco fleet is old and some of them have a "D" as a prefix and when the TOPS system was introduce these numbers were updated. Looking at them now I am a little puzzled as to whats what.
My only guide to BR locos is the "Observer's book of British Steam Locomotives" first published in 1955 revised in1966 (my copy) which contains some early diesels.
So my question is, what is the most complete guide covering all current UK motive power book that I can buy if it contains rolling stock all the better with a link to Web site as I live in Australia would be most helpfull.
Morgan Conroy There are literally hundreds of books about the prototype locos and equipment across their lives. The D prefix system is confusing, thats why BR got rid of it. All my knowledge has come from internet research. I have few few books so I can't really recommend much for you.
What type of kadee coupler is that? Short, medium, long, or the longer one?
Can you elaborate on insulftog points & using points clips which I what I'm using - just three wires. Where exactly are 3 wires going when they leave motors? & to reiterate a previous question, how can you get a simple on/off toggle switch to do the job without burning out motor or are switches on - centre off - on switches. Please clarify. Thanks.
Terminals A and B go to your switch. Terminal C goes to the negative side of the capacitor discharge unit. If your not using a capacitor discharge unit terminal C needs to goes to 0v. Hope that helps.
I have a 3 way point at the start of my shunting yeard and the layout is a dcc but not yet wired and I don't know how to wire the 3 way point?
What is the best way to make a gradient? Making my own n scale layout and want to get some advice on them.
I hope l don't sound daft but l am having a bad time with my electrics. Can you recommend a good book on the subject please.
How do I tell if my point is electrofrog or insulfrog?
Can you plug bus wires into the wall for power ?
I've not seen your point control motors in the U.S. Can you tell me where you obtain them?
Would you need the little bits of wire on the insulfrog points for DC?
Luke Knights Not with DC, just leave the points unmodified.
EverardJunction OK thanks
Aku subscrib, like 👍bos. Bagi dong wesel kereta nya
Where do you get all of your walls and buildings from
Hello there, I'd like to do something similar to this - can you tell me please approx how long your board is on this siding and appox how much track i will need?
why should we use an extra dc bus wire when we have an dcc one?
To run the point motors. To run those with DCC power risks damaging the DCC controller.
Stupid Question - What gauge is this layout - N or HO?
+kparc Parc It's OO which is 1:76 scale. OO is very similar to HO.
Of subject but as you are in a loft how do you stop buckling of the track i got a bad buckle on mine now since 35C yesterday. Even with windows open and fans running full pelt. It will take some repairing before the trains run again
Malcolm Walls I make sure to leave a small gap of 1 to 2mm at every join in the track to allow for expansion. Even with the very hot weather I haven't had any issues.
EverardJunction I did that when i built it as i had issues in the past must have been to small a gap thansk for the reply
what type of switches are they
Are those couplings any more expensive than tension locks?
Humbolt136 Yep, tension locks come free with almost every uk model. I have to by the kadees separately as the are not standard in the uk.
EverardJunction Well true but if you were say converting from medium to small tension locks would it be more expensive to convert to kadees? (assuming all the NEM pockets are there already)
Humbolt136 Probably more expensive for kadees. A pack of 4 is about £4.
hi
what size kdee couplers do you use
Just a footnote, can't believe you got a "thumbs down" for this video. There are some Real Numpties out there.
also, with those magnets is it OK to ballast over them?
Yes.
for the magnets what im going to do is to use 4 square ones and put them just inside the rail between the 3 sets of sleepers like > [] : [] : []
Freeded switches ? And frow the points rather then throw !!
And "frog"? I don't really understand that term. LOL
+kparc Parc Its where the rails form the X crossover in the middle of the point.
EverardJunction Part 6?
EverardJunction Part6?
Excuse me, how is called the magnetic circuit breakers and where to buy? And yet, I would like to learn about the electromagnets. thank
waste of my time the title of what was to explained was A "CONTROL PANEL" and what we got was annoying music and a fast forward of nailing,drilling and a tour of a layout that had more to do with trackwork and uncoupling with kaydee what a joke