Great video! I was told in an airbrush page on FB that createx colors will not stick to a powder coated surface. The guy said that eventually it will lift. I had a problem airbrushing a powder coated letter box, as the createx colors lifted even though I scuffed with a scotchbrite pad Thanks
Hi great job thanks for your videos...... I masked off an area and the tape left glue behind... how do I remove the adhesive without messing up the painted area?
You can try very lightly wiping the surface with wax and grease remover on a paper towel. Don't get too aggressive or you may wind up removing paint too. At the end of the day, it might require a repair either way. In the future don't use cheap tape. Use a tape designed for automotive paint and you'll avoid this issue.
Hi Trevor, I watched your prepping video when I first started airbrushing in January. I’m now at the stage of using a clear coat with uvls on my artwork, generally on dibond or canvass, how many times would you apply an inter coat to your artwork before you finish it. Great clear advice again 👍🏻
Hey Kevin! The short answer is only as many times as it is needed. UVLS has a higher solids content which makes it fantastic as an intercoat when you need to level out paint build up along masked edges; however, you also run the risk of building too much paint thickness on the panel if you get carried away. Too much paint on the surface can cause paint failure later down the road. My rule of thumb has always been no more than four applications of an intercoat clear on any one particular job. The main reasons I will choose to use an intercoat clear are to protect underlying artwork which can make repairing future mistakes a lot easier, to protect metallic or pearl colors prior to masking over them and to level out paint build up along masked edges as mentioned above.
Hello, i am doing some tests. I prepared an hold plastic helmet, sanding with 600, 800, and 1000 sandpaper. Then i have painted with a gloss black paint. I spayed a gloss varnish coat on it too. Now i want to paint some white stars with stencils made with masking tape. Can i paint directly on it or sand again the gloss varnish ? (at the end i would want a gloss finish)
The gloss varnish will need to be sanded prior to airbrushing for proper adhesion. You can clear the helmet again once the airbrush work has been finished.
Thank you for a good explanation about basic paint applications for all of us . Plastic model cars are harder to get into the corners when sanding. BTW, I have now tried the Createx white versus other acrylic brands and it really sprayed wonderfully on a model car I am building. I feel also too many people don't have enough patience when spraying and building, and I ask, what is the rush? Let paint dry at the very least, overnight....thanks....
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. I can definitely see how getting into corners on a plastic model car could be challenging when sanding. A fiberglass prep pen works really well for getting into tight areas. There are many options, but you can find an example here amzn.to/3rVJcS1
Hi Trevor..Is the red & gray pads about same grit? I was under impression gray was to be used? I bought some red & white pads while back & gray..to practice on some old helmets..But red is ok to scuff service..Yes I found out a good cleaning & scuffing is needed!! Thanks & stay safe 😷
Hey Richard! The gray pads are actually a little bit less aggressive compared to the red. Red pads would roughly be equivalent to 500 or 600 grit sandpaper. Gray pads are roughly equivalent to 600 or 800 grit sandpaper in my opinion. Either pad is suitable for scuffing the surface. I just prefer red most of the time because it's a little more aggressive.
I'm assuming you're referring to the board behind the panel(s) I work on? If not, please correct me. If so, that's just a large board I have attached to an easel. I use tape to attach whatever I'm working on to the backboard.
I'm painting a window with a Viking Longboat in a storm at night! The slightest touch of my fingernails or template's etc pull up the paint. What would you advise? Any help would be gratefully appreciated. A fascinating video once again, take care my friend 👍😷👍
Hey Andrew! That sounds like a cool project! Glass can be tricky, mostly because paint doesn't like to stick to a very smooth surface like I mentioned in the video. Etching the glass would probably be the best method to put a "tooth" in the surface for paint to adhere to. Etching the surface means you won't be able to see through it anymore though, and that may not be the effect you're after. If etching the surface is not an option, you need to do two things. First, make sure the glass is very clean before you begin. Surface contaminates will also cause adhesion issues, exacerbating the issue already present due to working on a super smooth surface. I would recommend using 4020 Reducer to clean the surface because it contains acetone. Use a lint free paper towel and keep cleaning until the paper towel is clean when you lift it. Once it's clean, make sure it's completely dry before you put paint on it. Secondly, you need an adhesion promoter. In this case I would recommend about two coats of UVLS Gloss Clear. UVLS has extremely good adhesion qualities on a variety of different surfaces. It works as a primer and/or adhesion promoter very effectively for that reason. Make sure the first coat is completely dry to the touch before applying an additional coat. Don't spray it wet on wet and make sure the UVLS is completely dry before you begin airbrushing over it. At the end of the day, you'll still be painting over glass. Adhesion will never be as good compared to other surfaces. So, keep that in mind while working and be cautious about scratching the surface with a fingernail, shield, stencil, etc. If you follow the procedure above, you should have much better results though.
@@wickedartstudio your response to his question is very helpful to me! do different UVLS have different qualities? Any difference between gloss, satin, matte?
@@jelly.1899 The only real difference I'm aware of, aside from the obvious, is UVLS Gloss apparently has better adhesion qualities compared to satin or matte. I don't know why that is, but Createx found it important enough to add that statement in the technical data sheet. So, if I have an adhesion concern, I choose to use UVLS Gloss. You can always topcoat it again when the project is finished with matte or satin if the gloss finish is not desired.
The detail colors can be a pain in the neck too, especially over a Pearl. 4030 has definitely saved me a few too many times. I use that stuff religiously
Hey Brian! It's always a good idea to use an intercoat clear over a pearl or metallic if you're going to be masking over it. A transparent base, 4030 or UVLS will work for that purpose. I prefer the UVLS Gloss Clear.
@@wickedartstudio yea I’ve come to find that out the hard way. With the UVLS do you have to scuff it a little with a grey scotchbrite first? I just ordered all 3 because I keep hearing nothing but great things
@@brianindorato5255 If you're applying UVLS over Auto Air Colors, Wicked Colors, Wicked Detail Colors or Illustration Colors it is not necessary to scuff the surface first. If you have already applied UVLS to the surface and it's had time to cure (normally 48 hours or so depending on conditions), then I recommend lightly scuffing the surface before applying additional coats.
I'm here to see how NOT to get it wrong. 1. I'm using Vallejo Model Color . 2. I am airbrushing it over a thinned paint using Tamiya acrylic thinner,and the subject is car model seats that were primed using Mr. HOBBY 1000 surfacer. I am extremely leary about the results. A irrelevant side note..... I want to up my game building car models by taking the interior more serious and more accurate. I will NEVER use acrylics for the body unless the finish doesn't have to be real shiny, or wetsanded. For me there is absolutely NO substitute for enamel thinned with lacquer thinner 2:1 ratio or lacquer paint. I thought I had my issue solved by using a more premium hobby acrylic like Vallejo and a better quality airbrush like iwata but this may or may not make a difference? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you. Howard.
A better-quality airbrush does make a difference because it atomizes the paint more consistently. The same can be said for better quality paint. Having said that, I can't speak to the quality of the paints you mention because I've never used them. The real difference between a good finish and a problematic finish comes down to the time and prep work involved before any paint is applied. Taking your time to properly clean and prep the surface makes the biggest difference regardless of what paint or airbrush you choose to use.
Thanks for the kind words Alexander! I don't recommend any prep, other than cleaning the surface, when using synthetic papers for airbrushing. If you do more than that, you're kind of defeating the purpose of using a synthetic paper in the first place.
I just use a little 4012 and 4050 in everything I use. All base paint on up. When I layer paint I use the 4050 between colors. It only takes me 15 minutes to start taping or using fine line tape to start another color. I'm always in a hurry and I need it to dry fast.
some great info here! i use Createx, almost exclusively, and i have a real issue with Wicked gold peeling off at the edges when i pull up the tape. its infuriating. the UVLS products are a miracle though. i keep the matte, satin, and gloss versions at hand at all times.
@@skysettermobiles Hey Carolyn! I apologize for the late reply. As you've already figured out, yes 4011 can be used for cleaning the surface as well. I do prefer 4012, or even 4020, for this purpose over 4011 only because they are a little more aggressive and generally evaporate a little faster (4012 contains alcohol and 4020 contains acetone).
Great video! I was told in an airbrush page on FB that createx colors will not stick to a powder coated surface.
The guy said that eventually it will lift. I had a problem airbrushing a powder coated letter box, as the createx colors lifted even though I scuffed with a scotchbrite pad
Thanks
Hi great job thanks for your videos...... I masked off an area and the tape left glue behind... how do I remove the adhesive without messing up the painted area?
You can try very lightly wiping the surface with wax and grease remover on a paper towel. Don't get too aggressive or you may wind up removing paint too. At the end of the day, it might require a repair either way. In the future don't use cheap tape. Use a tape designed for automotive paint and you'll avoid this issue.
Hi Trevor, I watched your prepping video when I first started airbrushing in January. I’m now at the stage of using a clear coat with uvls on my artwork, generally on dibond or canvass, how many times would you apply an inter coat to your artwork before you finish it. Great clear advice again 👍🏻
Hey Kevin! The short answer is only as many times as it is needed. UVLS has a higher solids content which makes it fantastic as an intercoat when you need to level out paint build up along masked edges; however, you also run the risk of building too much paint thickness on the panel if you get carried away. Too much paint on the surface can cause paint failure later down the road. My rule of thumb has always been no more than four applications of an intercoat clear on any one particular job. The main reasons I will choose to use an intercoat clear are to protect underlying artwork which can make repairing future mistakes a lot easier, to protect metallic or pearl colors prior to masking over them and to level out paint build up along masked edges as mentioned above.
Hello, i am doing some tests. I prepared an hold plastic helmet, sanding with 600, 800, and 1000 sandpaper. Then i have painted with a gloss black paint. I spayed a gloss varnish coat on it too. Now i want to paint some white stars with stencils made with masking tape. Can i paint directly on it or sand again the gloss varnish ? (at the end i would want a gloss finish)
The gloss varnish will need to be sanded prior to airbrushing for proper adhesion. You can clear the helmet again once the airbrush work has been finished.
Many thanks for your response Trevor, much appreciated 👍🏻
I'm glad to help my friend!
Thank you for a good explanation about basic paint applications for all of us . Plastic model cars are harder to get into the corners when sanding. BTW, I have now tried the Createx white versus other acrylic brands and it really sprayed wonderfully on a model car I am building. I feel also too many people don't have enough patience when spraying and building, and I ask, what is the rush? Let paint dry at the very least, overnight....thanks....
Thank you for watching and taking the time to leave a comment.
I can definitely see how getting into corners on a plastic model car could be challenging when sanding. A fiberglass prep pen works really well for getting into tight areas. There are many options, but you can find an example here amzn.to/3rVJcS1
Hi Trevor..Is the red & gray pads about same grit? I was under impression gray was to be used?
I bought some red & white pads while back & gray..to practice on some old helmets..But red is ok to scuff service..Yes I found out a good cleaning & scuffing is needed!!
Thanks & stay safe 😷
Hey Richard! The gray pads are actually a little bit less aggressive compared to the red. Red pads would roughly be equivalent to 500 or 600 grit sandpaper. Gray pads are roughly equivalent to 600 or 800 grit sandpaper in my opinion. Either pad is suitable for scuffing the surface. I just prefer red most of the time because it's a little more aggressive.
@@wickedartstudio
Thanks Trevor...on getting back
What is that board sitting on and how do you get things to stick to the board ?
I'm assuming you're referring to the board behind the panel(s) I work on? If not, please correct me. If so, that's just a large board I have attached to an easel. I use tape to attach whatever I'm working on to the backboard.
I'm painting a window with a Viking Longboat in a storm at night! The slightest touch of my fingernails or template's etc pull up the paint. What would you advise? Any help would be gratefully appreciated.
A fascinating video once again, take care my friend 👍😷👍
Hey Andrew! That sounds like a cool project! Glass can be tricky, mostly because paint doesn't like to stick to a very smooth surface like I mentioned in the video. Etching the glass would probably be the best method to put a "tooth" in the surface for paint to adhere to. Etching the surface means you won't be able to see through it anymore though, and that may not be the effect you're after.
If etching the surface is not an option, you need to do two things. First, make sure the glass is very clean before you begin. Surface contaminates will also cause adhesion issues, exacerbating the issue already present due to working on a super smooth surface. I would recommend using 4020 Reducer to clean the surface because it contains acetone. Use a lint free paper towel and keep cleaning until the paper towel is clean when you lift it. Once it's clean, make sure it's completely dry before you put paint on it.
Secondly, you need an adhesion promoter. In this case I would recommend about two coats of UVLS Gloss Clear. UVLS has extremely good adhesion qualities on a variety of different surfaces. It works as a primer and/or adhesion promoter very effectively for that reason. Make sure the first coat is completely dry to the touch before applying an additional coat. Don't spray it wet on wet and make sure the UVLS is completely dry before you begin airbrushing over it.
At the end of the day, you'll still be painting over glass. Adhesion will never be as good compared to other surfaces. So, keep that in mind while working and be cautious about scratching the surface with a fingernail, shield, stencil, etc. If you follow the procedure above, you should have much better results though.
@@wickedartstudio your response to his question is very helpful to me! do different UVLS have different qualities? Any difference between gloss, satin, matte?
@@jelly.1899 The only real difference I'm aware of, aside from the obvious, is UVLS Gloss apparently has better adhesion qualities compared to satin or matte. I don't know why that is, but Createx found it important enough to add that statement in the technical data sheet. So, if I have an adhesion concern, I choose to use UVLS Gloss. You can always topcoat it again when the project is finished with matte or satin if the gloss finish is not desired.
@@wickedartstudio excellent! Thanks for your help - much appreciated!👍👍
Excellent tutorial
Thank you!
The detail colors can be a pain in the neck too, especially over a Pearl. 4030 has definitely saved me a few too many times. I use that stuff religiously
Hey Brian! It's always a good idea to use an intercoat clear over a pearl or metallic if you're going to be masking over it. A transparent base, 4030 or UVLS will work for that purpose. I prefer the UVLS Gloss Clear.
@@wickedartstudio yea I’ve come to find that out the hard way. With the UVLS do you have to scuff it a little with a grey scotchbrite first? I just ordered all 3 because I keep hearing nothing but great things
@@brianindorato5255 If you're applying UVLS over Auto Air Colors, Wicked Colors, Wicked Detail Colors or Illustration Colors it is not necessary to scuff the surface first. If you have already applied UVLS to the surface and it's had time to cure (normally 48 hours or so depending on conditions), then I recommend lightly scuffing the surface before applying additional coats.
Great info. Bad preparation always results in a bad paint job from my experiences..
I couldn't agree more!
Awesome and many thanks trevor for the video. Going to give all of this a try.
Hey Thomas! I'm glad you found it helpful my friend! Don't hesitate to ask if you have further questions.
@@wickedartstudio will do. I'm sure I'll think of more.
Good finished product in the end, is caused by good preparation in the beginning.
I couldn't agree more Dennis!
Thank you for explaining so well on preparing panels or art board.ck,wisc.
Thank you! I'm glad you found the content helpful!
I'm here to see how NOT to get it wrong. 1. I'm using Vallejo Model Color . 2. I am airbrushing it over a thinned paint using Tamiya acrylic thinner,and the subject is car model seats that were primed using
Mr. HOBBY 1000 surfacer. I am extremely leary about the results.
A irrelevant side note.....
I want to up my game building car models by taking the interior more serious and more accurate. I will NEVER use acrylics for the body unless the finish doesn't have to be
real shiny, or wetsanded. For me there is absolutely NO substitute for enamel thinned with lacquer thinner 2:1 ratio or lacquer paint.
I thought I had my issue solved by using a more premium hobby acrylic like Vallejo and a better quality airbrush like iwata but this may or may not make a difference?
Any input would be appreciated.
Thank you. Howard.
A better-quality airbrush does make a difference because it atomizes the paint more consistently. The same can be said for better quality paint. Having said that, I can't speak to the quality of the paints you mention because I've never used them. The real difference between a good finish and a problematic finish comes down to the time and prep work involved before any paint is applied. Taking your time to properly clean and prep the surface makes the biggest difference regardless of what paint or airbrush you choose to use.
Hi, Trevor! Awesome detailed video as always. What are your thoughts on synthetic paper prep?
Thanks for the kind words Alexander! I don't recommend any prep, other than cleaning the surface, when using synthetic papers for airbrushing. If you do more than that, you're kind of defeating the purpose of using a synthetic paper in the first place.
Thank you. Nice Christmas present Dad!
Thank you, Steve!
I just use a little 4012 and 4050 in everything I use. All base paint on up. When I layer paint I use the 4050 between colors. It only takes me 15 minutes to start taping or using fine line tape to start another color. I'm always in a hurry and I need it to dry fast.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
some great info here! i use Createx, almost exclusively, and i have a real issue with Wicked gold peeling off at the edges when i pull up the tape. its infuriating. the UVLS products are a miracle though. i keep the matte, satin, and gloss versions at hand at all times.
Hey Chris! I agree, the UVLS line has been a game changer for a lot of different applications!
4012 reducer to clean? genius! does 4011 also work for cleaning my surface?
Ha! Yes it does! Thanks for the invaluable tip that no one else has mentioned. You are awesome!
@@skysettermobiles Hey Carolyn! I apologize for the late reply. As you've already figured out, yes 4011 can be used for cleaning the surface as well. I do prefer 4012, or even 4020, for this purpose over 4011 only because they are a little more aggressive and generally evaporate a little faster (4012 contains alcohol and 4020 contains acetone).
glad to see another video..thanks for the tips..appreciate..love the vids.
Thank you Raymond!
glad...very good tricks...thanks
Thank you!
You do some great videos man
Thank you Ryan! I appreciate that very much!
Excellent info!
Thank you my friend!
Thanks for vid buddy
Thank you! Your work is impressive my friend!
this video didnt really help me. Im not using airbrush. I ripped my paint off. idk. Maybe i should have clear coated it before
Sorry to hear that.