Heyo everybody. 13 tips was a lot in such a short duration I realized. Let me know if there’s any of these that you’d like me to expand upon in a future video!
Glad to see tip #1. A lot of intro/basics to climbing vids tend to gloss over (or deny) the importance of finger strength, which is easily the primary thing early climbers are lacking. Edit to add: love the theme of active climbing, really promotes presence of mind and engaged enjoyment. Big sends to all!
Yeah I hate when people downplay strength, like you can’t use good technique if you’re too weak to hold on to the wall (obviously you need to be good at putting weight through your feet on the wall though)
@@Limbaugh_ Yeah, I think people say you don't need to be strong as in you don't need strong arms, but they usually don't mention that grip strength matters more than anything lol
This is so well edited, and has some great up-close examples with clear easy to understand explanations. Such a great video. It's cool to see how much improvement your channel made in quality and skill over the years. Good shit 👍
These tips are so well curated! I've been climbing for a year now and been watching a lot of videos - not only did you give so many tips that where new to me, but also so helpful! Thank you so much, this video is a new favorite! :)
Great video 🤘As a suggestion, I think it would be cool to see one on assessing and identifying weaknesses as a climber. Maybe like signals to look for if body tension or finger strength or whatever is lacking. Could be cool to see you assess your own too!
Emil, great content as usually. Every person who is getting into climbing and wants to improve should watch this video. One thing I would add that I think is really important is, what is your “off foot” doing? In cases where we have one good foot and the other leg/foot is off, thinking about back flag, smear, scum, anything to get compression/friction/weight adjustment/momentum on the off leg is super important. Great stuff!
I have been climbing for a couple of years already, but just yesterday I came across a pinch route, where I did a couple of tries and finally did it when I moved my body closer to the pinches. On the other hand, later I did a slopy route where I couldn't keep my arm and this is when I failed. Now this video just popped up and this tip expecially sounds very useful. I'll definetly try to keep it in mind for my further go's
I’ve been watching your videos for awhile now, and I remember you being a setter/head setter. I’m a setter myself and I’m struggling with balancing training with setting. Any tips you might have for either balancing the two or maybe what you did to avoid injury while becoming a stronger/better climber?
@@EmilAbrahamsson that’s a great tip. It takes a lot of concentration to go from trying to rip a hold off the wall to grabbing something like a sloper. I literally flew off the wall. But I felt really strong doing it. it really does make grabbing pinches feel a lot more secure. Almost jug- like
I love the part at 0:37 where you talked about Surfshark VPN. As a climber, i know all my fellow climbers are constantly asking each other which VPN is the best. Now we know!
I’m setting with him every now and then again so I really hope so! Him and Eric are away filming quite a bit so it’s not so easy to plan in a day for it
Awesome video! These are not the most common tips, so it's great for diversity. What do you recommend for beginners to train the ability to contract as fast as possible (tip #12)? I feel doing latches would be a bit too hard for beginners.
Find a place you can do a deadpoint on the gym wall (slightly overhanging is probably best) and go to a hold out to the side or diagonally up that's at the absolute edge of your reach. Avoid jugs, only do this on edges, slopers, or crimps. Do a few repetitions of each deadpoint and then make up a new one. I would add, though, that this probably doesn't matter that much for a new climber. Focus on learning basic route reading and wait until your fingers are a bit stronger.
The last tip is interesting to me, I've heared it from multiple people with better footwork than me now, but it still seems counterintuitive, as wiggling your weight, knee and hip position around a bunch seems anything but advantageous, similar to regripping excessively... I'm still gonna try but why does it work?
I'm still very new, and maybe I'm weird... But I've found that almost any chalk is too much for me. I have really dry hands, and if I chalk up then before my muscles tire, before my joints become an issue, the skin of my hands gets so dry and chappy and painful that I can't grip any more. It's really frustrating. I've stopped chalking up, whatever's left on the holds is plenty for me.
I wouldn’t say weird! Skin is a very tricky subject in climbing, every one of us are very unique in what chalk works/doesn’t work, and it’s about figuring it out for yourself. Me myself for instance have to use “Antihydral”, a very very potent skin-drying agent. Most often people just use that on their tips, but I smear my hands full of it and it makes a huge difference since I have naturally very sweaty hands :-) If you wanted to try to enhance your grip/friction possibilities I would play around with a fat lotion at night and then use chalk during climbing sessions, it really really helps if you use it correctly :-) however, if you’re happy and content climbing without chalk then by all means do continue the way you are!
Yeah that happened to me at the start too but it does go away after some time. Dont give up on chalk just because of that (in my opinion). Even after a couple of months, I noticed that it was my finger strength getting tired first before the skin of my hands would feel too painful. So just keep at it and your skin will get tougher👍
I’m guest setting a bit now that I’m in Stockholm! Not tied to any gym, but will mostly set at BLX for the time being, and then Moumo every now and then :-)
You do you my friend! But some food for thought, for most people it’ll take between 30min - 1 hour for 1 minute of content on a RUclips (if it’s with b-roll and not just a vlog), and for some even more than that. Ultimately, that’ll end up being about 2-4$ an hour for a video like this, and living in a place that averages 20$ or more it’s a bit of a reduction, so the ads are what makes it possible for people to create content. All you gotta do is either watch or skip and you’ll effectively be helping make RUclips a possibility. Personally I’m always hella stoked when I see somebody make an ad on RUclips, because it means they’re making their lives somewhat sustainable!
6 sessions in and I am hella sold. They’re the best indoor shoe I think I’ve worn. Hopefully they stay that way through the duration of their lives (sometimes shoes become quite shiet for me after a while)
Hi Emil! Could you do a short video on loosing weight for climbing? I have been climbing for 3 years now and I think I have progressively gotten stronger but weight is still an issue. Maybe u could share abt how u lost weight for climbing?
Don't worry, we've all been there. In fact, we still see some world cup athletes (I won't mention any names) who don't fully utilize their momentum on dynos. It's a tricky skill! I heard learning this skill made my friend Linda (who was in the previous video) tremendously much better at dynos over a very short period of time when she was competing in World Cups
They are absolutely mad. Only 6 sessions in so we’ll see how they perform long term, but I think 5-10 session drone CS will be my new comp shoe/performance shoe
@@EmilAbrahamsson the 2 things that changed from what I could tell were the midsole and the rubber. I know it’s hard to really isolate how those aspects affect the shoe, but what do you think of the new rubber? I always thought mad rock’s rubber held them back in terms of softer more sensitive shoes
@@EmilAbrahamsson Well you have a very similar frame and your strength on sloapers just amazes me again and again. So there is no shortage of improvements i can learn from you
Heyo everybody. 13 tips was a lot in such a short duration I realized. Let me know if there’s any of these that you’d like me to expand upon in a future video!
i was hoping you could expand a little more on the 6th tip? the one about how to unblock blocked websites with surfshark vpn?
@@roowf4685 hahah alright, expect the next video to cover everything about that
You should make more climbing training content. YT is lacking quality training content
It wasn’t too bad to follow the one thing that I had to rewind was the heel hook to watch the wall blocking the foot👍🏾
Thank you for the great video! I was wondering if u got some more advanced tips/routines that helped u get to the level you are now?
13!? I said I wanted the ONE simple trick to climb V14. It's almost as if you don't want me to flash Off the Wagon in my crocs....
Bro, have I told you about my lord and saviour, “the deadlift”?
All great tips except #9 for outdoor holds. Depending on the rock type, excessive brushing is a one way trip to polish-town!
That’s a fair point, and I do agree that brushing excessively isn’t so good outdoors. Bad phrasing on my end!
Same for #13
@@nicoroulet7308 Whats wrong with #13?
@@Spyziy it polishes the footholds
@@nicoroulet7308 I mean yeah.. but it is still good for technique so worth it?
Glad to see tip #1. A lot of intro/basics to climbing vids tend to gloss over (or deny) the importance of finger strength, which is easily the primary thing early climbers are lacking.
Edit to add: love the theme of active climbing, really promotes presence of mind and engaged enjoyment. Big sends to all!
Yeah I hate when people downplay strength, like you can’t use good technique if you’re too weak to hold on to the wall (obviously you need to be good at putting weight through your feet on the wall though)
@@Limbaugh_ But it's worth pointing out to beginners also that trying to build finger strengthtoo quickly is a big injury risk.
@@emmaaxelson7821 i hangboard as a beginner c
@@Limbaugh_ yep, no fingerstrength here yet! So just sending 4Bs until I can hold onto a 5A. And overhangs.. My entire arms need strength haha
@@Limbaugh_ Yeah, I think people say you don't need to be strong as in you don't need strong arms, but they usually don't mention that grip strength matters more than anything lol
Great tips. My favorite was the one about contracting at the right timing.
It’s very very common, and honestly doesn’t really stop being true at any level of bouldering! I still struggle with it for sure
This is so well edited, and has some great up-close examples with clear easy to understand explanations. Such a great video. It's cool to see how much improvement your channel made in quality and skill over the years. Good shit 👍
Thanks my homie! I really appreciate that :-) the plan is to make content in this direction more often
These tips are so well curated! I've been climbing for a year now and been watching a lot of videos - not only did you give so many tips that where new to me, but also so helpful! Thank you so much, this video is a new favorite! :)
Great video 🤘As a suggestion, I think it would be cool to see one on assessing and identifying weaknesses as a climber. Maybe like signals to look for if body tension or finger strength or whatever is lacking. Could be cool to see you assess your own too!
Emil, great content as usually. Every person who is getting into climbing and wants to improve should watch this video. One thing I would add that I think is really important is, what is your “off foot” doing? In cases where we have one good foot and the other leg/foot is off, thinking about back flag, smear, scum, anything to get compression/friction/weight adjustment/momentum on the off leg is super important. Great stuff!
Great tips! Really like seeing all the drills you've done in the past to work on specific areas yourself, like the pinch strength!
I have been climbing for a couple of years already, but just yesterday I came across a pinch route, where I did a couple of tries and finally did it when I moved my body closer to the pinches. On the other hand, later I did a slopy route where I couldn't keep my arm and this is when I failed. Now this video just popped up and this tip expecially sounds very useful. I'll definetly try to keep it in mind for my further go's
I’ve been watching your videos for awhile now, and I remember you being a setter/head setter. I’m a setter myself and I’m struggling with balancing training with setting. Any tips you might have for either balancing the two or maybe what you did to avoid injury while becoming a stronger/better climber?
Glad to see you going to BLX! Looking forward to some sick problems that I can fail to send :D
Mwhaha! Great to hear, I hope I can make you both suffer and smile
You should make bouldering training videos. There’s a demand for it on RUclips.
Thanks mate! It’s actually my main focus in the coming weeks :-)
I'd love to see a review of the new drone comp!
Great video!!!
What is that Boulder at 8:03? Looks beautiful!
Great video! Just realized I’ve been at the gym in this video, it was really nice 😅
Ive never heard that pinch tip before I’m gonna try that
Do it and report back! I’m genuinely curious how others perceive it, it’s a bit of an abstract concept but worked very well for me
@@EmilAbrahamsson that’s a great tip. It takes a lot of concentration to go from trying to rip a hold off the wall to grabbing something like a sloper. I literally flew off the wall. But I felt really strong doing it. it really does make grabbing pinches feel a lot more secure. Almost jug- like
Awesome video Emil! Love the educational content!
Really great tips!
Great video! A lot of these tips are things I’ll be applying to my climbing!
Cheers mate, I truly hope they help somehow!
Amazing video, more advanced videos like this!!!
"a great tip for more recent people" lol you're right : people are temporary, climbing is eternal :) cool vid!
The Jacket in the beginning is so beautiful. Anyone knows which Brand it is?
Thank you father Emil
Haha you’re welcome, and thanks for watching
Great video man!!!
Most of these are unique from all the other "climbing tips" videos that exist, nice
Golden tips
I love the part at 0:37 where you talked about Surfshark VPN. As a climber, i know all my fellow climbers are constantly asking each other which VPN is the best. Now we know!
Nice Tipps!
Any chances of you meeting up with Nikken for a video anytime soon?
I’m setting with him every now and then again so I really hope so! Him and Eric are away filming quite a bit so it’s not so easy to plan in a day for it
Awesome video! These are not the most common tips, so it's great for diversity. What do you recommend for beginners to train the ability to contract as fast as possible (tip #12)? I feel doing latches would be a bit too hard for beginners.
Find a place you can do a deadpoint on the gym wall (slightly overhanging is probably best) and go to a hold out to the side or diagonally up that's at the absolute edge of your reach. Avoid jugs, only do this on edges, slopers, or crimps. Do a few repetitions of each deadpoint and then make up a new one.
I would add, though, that this probably doesn't matter that much for a new climber. Focus on learning basic route reading and wait until your fingers are a bit stronger.
Does anyone know what shoes they are? (You can see them clearly in Tip 2) Cheers!
@@robbylett which ones?
@@max_kl the ones in Tip #2
@@robbylett there are multiple... I think the ones he wears are by Mad Rock, probably Redline or Drone
What are those shiny new Madrock shoes ? An updated redline ?
Where did you buy that vest?
My best hack is to steal beta from more advanced climbers 😅
Especially ones who are not that much stronger physically, but climb much harder anyway
The last tip is interesting to me, I've heared it from multiple people with better footwork than me now, but it still seems counterintuitive, as wiggling your weight, knee and hip position around a bunch seems anything but advantageous, similar to regripping excessively... I'm still gonna try but why does it work?
Nice Video
8. There's no such thing as too much chalk.
9. There's no such thing as too much brushing.
quite an ad right there lmao. probs would def shorten it. thanks for the tips tho!
I'm still very new, and maybe I'm weird... But I've found that almost any chalk is too much for me. I have really dry hands, and if I chalk up then before my muscles tire, before my joints become an issue, the skin of my hands gets so dry and chappy and painful that I can't grip any more. It's really frustrating. I've stopped chalking up, whatever's left on the holds is plenty for me.
I wouldn’t say weird! Skin is a very tricky subject in climbing, every one of us are very unique in what chalk works/doesn’t work, and it’s about figuring it out for yourself. Me myself for instance have to use “Antihydral”, a very very potent skin-drying agent. Most often people just use that on their tips, but I smear my hands full of it and it makes a huge difference since I have naturally very sweaty hands :-)
If you wanted to try to enhance your grip/friction possibilities I would play around with a fat lotion at night and then use chalk during climbing sessions, it really really helps if you use it correctly :-) however, if you’re happy and content climbing without chalk then by all means do continue the way you are!
Yeah that happened to me at the start too but it does go away after some time. Dont give up on chalk just because of that (in my opinion). Even after a couple of months, I noticed that it was my finger strength getting tired first before the skin of my hands would feel too painful. So just keep at it and your skin will get tougher👍
Are those the madrock drone V2s? How are they there was a demo of them at my gym but I missed it
Are they softer because I thought the drones where too stiff
Where is your jacket from
Are you setting in several different gyms? I see BLX here
but could have sworn I saw you setting in Moumo, unless I'm crazy.
I’m guest setting a bit now that I’m in Stockholm! Not tied to any gym, but will mostly set at BLX for the time being, and then Moumo every now and then :-)
👍
The drone comps look amazing!! I guess you got a demo
Hard no on the ads. See ya!
You do you my friend!
But some food for thought, for most people it’ll take between 30min - 1 hour for 1 minute of content on a RUclips (if it’s with b-roll and not just a vlog), and for some even more than that. Ultimately, that’ll end up being about 2-4$ an hour for a video like this, and living in a place that averages 20$ or more it’s a bit of a reduction, so the ads are what makes it possible for people to create content. All you gotta do is either watch or skip and you’ll effectively be helping make RUclips a possibility. Personally I’m always hella stoked when I see somebody make an ad on RUclips, because it means they’re making their lives somewhat sustainable!
Too much commercial.
VPN ads everywhere
Hello
Hello!
2:09
I think you have to be a ninja or must have ninja skills like many elite Japanese sport climbers ! 😆
refreshing to see a video where the creator gets right into it instead of talking for 30 minutes about nothing related
the tips didnt work for me
Those mad rock shoes look dope.
Incredible video
6 sessions in and I am hella sold. They’re the best indoor shoe I think I’ve worn. Hopefully they stay that way through the duration of their lives (sometimes shoes become quite shiet for me after a while)
@@EmilAbrahamsson what shoes are they? they look great!
How do they feel compared to the reg drones?
@@briankasman4529 New version of the Mad Rock Drones. I don't think this version is out yet.
@@JanDanielSCortez they will be released in Oktober 24th in the US and probably in 2023 in the rest of the world.
I love that Fleece, where did you buy it from Emil ?
From a brand called weekday many many moons ago, don't think they make it anymore :/
7:07
4:20 sorry emil
Another fantastic useful video!!
Thank you my friend :-)
Great video, and lots of tips that I haven't heard in other similar vids that I think could really make a big difference! Thanks
Had to rewind because those drone cs’s were districting me, so cool! Can’t wait for the LV version to drop
I bought these two crimp blocks and I’ve been grinding my finger strength and it’s helped me send my first 5/6, and I’m close to getting two more.
Hi Emil! Could you do a short video on loosing weight for climbing? I have been climbing for 3 years now and I think I have progressively gotten stronger but weight is still an issue. Maybe u could share abt how u lost weight for climbing?
Lol im the opposite of you, im at 180, and want to go to 200lbs.
5'7"
At 8:30 is that the unreleased drone cs?
great tipps for everyone id say.
I'm guilty of trying to pull with my arms into dynos so I'll have to try keeping them straighter and rotating into a leg push.
Don't worry, we've all been there. In fact, we still see some world cup athletes (I won't mention any names) who don't fully utilize their momentum on dynos. It's a tricky skill!
I heard learning this skill made my friend Linda (who was in the previous video) tremendously much better at dynos over a very short period of time when she was competing in World Cups
Emil, do you know what causes a dry fire?
For most people it’s dry and cold skin, for me it’s wet and watery skin 😅
Are those the new Mad Rock Drones that I see?
Indeed they are!
How are you liking the new Drone CS's? Only other thing I can find online of them is a short MadRock released today
They are absolutely mad. Only 6 sessions in so we’ll see how they perform long term, but I think 5-10 session drone CS will be my new comp shoe/performance shoe
Long story short, like a redline that you can stand on edges with, and that’s soft enough to adapt very well to indoor heel hooks!
@@EmilAbrahamsson the 2 things that changed from what I could tell were the midsole and the rubber. I know it’s hard to really isolate how those aspects affect the shoe, but what do you think of the new rubber? I always thought mad rock’s rubber held them back in terms of softer more sensitive shoes
How do you like the new drones?
They’re fantastic so far, 6 sessions in
Well I study your style from time to time xd
Honestly very flattered, thank you!
@@EmilAbrahamsson Well you have a very similar frame and your strength on sloapers just amazes me again and again. So there is no shortage of improvements i can learn from you