3 Mistakes I See Every Average Climber Make
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
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Timestamps:
0:00 Power is technique
1:50 What is technique?
4:19 Mistake #1
4:40 Campus Bouldering
5:34 Deep Lock-Offs
6:17 Weighted Pull-ups
7:05 Mistake #2
7:33 Dyno Training
8:20 Mistake #3
8:40 Finger Training
10:00 V5 Climber tries the exercises!
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Time for the second part in this series, where we'll talk about some workouts you can do to improve from V5 all the way to V8 (and beyond). Hope it helps!
Can we get a quick explanation on how to log these workouts? I've never used Crimpd before (or any training app). How will you select your winner? Thanks for the motivation. I've been plateaued for 12 years. Maybe I'll finally break through!
@emil when I search your name in the app only a finger workout shows.
I'm definitely gonna try out Exercise #4
Haha to be fair in your case it might be best to stop dyno training all together...
... and start DYNO SENDING!!!!
Rainbow Rocket when?
sick burn@@EmilAbrahamsson
No
Goofy man
Made a list of all the drills:
- Campus bouldering (matches or no matching ways)
- Deep lock offs: Lock off one and keep bumping the other until fully extended. Second time with opposite hand.
- Weighted pullups: Find 2rm. Do 5 sets of 3 with 3min b/w sets at 0.9rm
- Dyno training: Keep eliminating holds
- Max hangs: 7 sec hang. 2min rest. Add weight till failure -> 1rm. Do 10s hang at 0.9rm for 6 sets with 2min b/w sets
Legend🙌🙌
Honestly, a perfect program!
Thank you. Thank you very much.
I started climbing as a weak 11 yo kid. everyone were telling me for years to focus a lot on my technique and to care less about my upper body strength. After 4 years of following this bs i started to lack my pulling power a lot. I did my first V8 and hit a terrible plateau. I finally started doing weighted pullups and it helped a lot. Went from a +25kg chin-up to +37 in 5 months and it changed everything (still not good enough tbh)
Pulling power is so stupidly underrated. This video is literally the only one i've ever seen that doesnt ignore the importance of it... Thank you so much for this
Chin up? I hope you meant pull-up, not sure chin ups really translate to climbing.
@@prodbyskogs4435 Chin-ups do translate as well, because it still strengthens ur pull muscles in the back. Although, pullups translates better.
@@prodbyskogs4435 Stronger biceps, lats and forearms don't translate to climbing? Chin ups are a fine alternative to pull ups
@@prodbyskogs4435i think chin ups will help with bicep intensive moves. as a climber i mostly focus on pull ups but do chin ups too (just to get the best of both worlds)
They told you that cause it's not recommended for 11 year olds to use heavy weights
A wild Erik Karlsson climbing appeared at 20:15 😂
Love this. Not a lot of content on RUclips for climbers in the V5-V8 range. I already practice a lot of this stuff and it's great to see it reinforced and learn different details and nuances to implement. Excellent work!
I would say definitely be a little careful with your elbows, this is a lot of heavy pulling if you add it all on at once. Campus + dynamic + those lock offs + weighted pullups are all going to blast your elbows so pay attention to your body and dont overdo it!!
Very good point!
I agree, it's super important to be careful whenever you add a lot of weight and volume to certain types of movements. I became a much stronger climber in a short amount of time after I had introduced weighted pull-ups into my training. I improved my finger strength simultaneously and overall was able to send drastically more hard boulders in every training session while feeling great - until I ruptured my distal biceps tendon and was completely out for 4 months. Now, 1 year after surgery I'm roughly back to where I was but I'll certainly be very careful whenever I increase volume, intensity, or frequency. Injury is just not worth it.
@@Hopesfallout I wonder if it's worth it. Janja Garnbret does 0 pullups training or fingerboarding, similiar with Adam. I think intelligent training on the wall beats it all. You train pullups, you get better at pullups movement. Train climbing movement - then you get better at it. Do we really need all those tricks and devices to isolate movement which is not climbing and confuse our body?? (with fingerboard, pull-up bar)
@@paulvolt2963I think it completely depends on your climbing history and athletic background. Plenty of elite athletes don't train pull-ups or fingers specifically, but most of them have been climbing since they were kids, they've built the necessary strength over decades, often during puberty when strength builds very easily. Most ppl don't have that background xD I think for most ppl who start training as adults it's worth it to hangboard as soon as possible and to be able to do at least 10 pull-ups.
This video is so high quality man, really well put together, great job. What you are doing here is simply amazing. Truely inspiring.
Needed this home-truth, thank you! After years of smugly climbing harder than those who are stronger than me, ultimately over time those climbers who worked on their technique now climb harder than me, as I did not work on my strength meanwhile. Finally humbling myself and starting my first official training plan in two weeks!
That slo-mo of your left bicep jiggling @7:18 though 😆
Emil, your channel has become my favourite climbing channel over the past months. This is awesome content. Thanks, i appreciate your dedication and work!
i love these types of videos so much they're so helpful. Thank you!!
Great video!! You gave me some of this advice in person which was very special!! Cheers
New climber here, you great thanks for all your guidance. Great coaching.
So good!!!! I'm quite excited to dive further into my climbing potential.
Great content, thanks Emil
Really informative and helpful video! Thanks a lot!
informative and I'll definitely be trying these exercises. Your student was pretty cool and his feedback well thought out.
Thanks for the video!
Loved the Nikken cameo!!
And yes Emil… also the content 🚀 Such a refreshing perspective for me as a mainly static route climber. And boy am I hyped to some proper training blocks now during the coming months 🦍
Obviously during the gym filming part
YES new video 😁🔥
Thank you! I will try this while I am working on getting my first 7A.
Thanks!
I tried your workouts and they where very nice. I'm gonna integrate them in my training on a regular basis 🙂
This was great, thanks. Good to see someone the same grade, height/frame as myself try your routine. Im definitely lacking in the strength aspect though!
Great video, thanks! On the topic discussed in a few other comments, injury prevention when ramping up pulling strength exercises, I've found that proactively exercising "reverse tyler twist" with a flexbar (resistance in rotation) helps a lot to prevent golfer's elbow tendonitis (common for climbers ramping up volume in pulling exercises). It may not help against total elbow/biceps tendon rupture, but naturally you should avoid pushing training volume that far.
Gotta love Nikkens photobomb 20:59😄
+50kg is a hell of a weighted pull-up for a V5 climber! 💪
definitely not a limiting factor for him I would say lol
@@flip_langeAgree, I also thought he could probably benefit more from technique training 😀
for real.. bro does NOT need to train weighted pull ups
Yes it was amazing that his max hang strength was so weak comparatively to his weighted pull ups
I am V4 and +60kg weighted pullups and I weigh 65kg lol
I love it.
as a beginner climber I love the little series on how to improve through the grades! I was wondering if you have tips for reflection. For example, you give william feedback after every dynamic attempt on how to stick the move. I noticed when climbing myself I find it alot harder to spot these things while on the wall.
Haha it could probably be a video on it's own, but I'll do my best.
1. Film yourself! Atleast every now and then. Compare the video, does it look the way it feels?
2. Can you find one small thing that helps you improve? It could be just comparing how you grip a hold or how you push with a foot or how "aggressive" mentality you have towards sticking the move. Anything really works, if you manage to find one detail per boulder, you'll learn 30-50 new things every session! It doesn't have to be anything major or the thing that makes you stick a move, really just something that helps you get closer even just slightly.
These two are probably the biggest things you can do. Hope it helps!
@@EmilAbrahamsson awesome, thanks for the advice and quick reply!
Men thank you so much for this video.
I've been to this gym! Had a great time in Stockholm
19:48 I also find the hangboard jugs are easier to pullup than a bar. As you pull up on a bar your wrist bends and you have to spend some power to keep them in position. On a hangboard your wrist is supported for the whole motion.
Thanks for another great video! how would you recommend combining this workout with climbing twice/three times a week
I’ve just started climbing and am more at a v3 level but these training plans are super helpful for me. Will just leave out the hang-board stuff till my joints and tendons are more used to climbing
Your left arm shaking in the slow-motion footage at 7:15 is crazy!!!!!
I agree on the point, that doing pull ups on the upper parts of the beastmaker is easier than the bar. I've often said this to my friends, but they don't believe me - it's fun to see him say the same!
Great video Emil. I have relatively weak fingers for my weight and find that indoor bouldering grades are almost no guide whatsoever for whether I'll be able to do any given problem. I can do some V7s and still get spat off some V3s. Good technique is great but as you say, it is no substitute for finger strength or power.
I love how it cuts from the tranquil deep lock off section directly into the 100 kg pullup attempt lmao
3:54 lol so funny, 매드락 ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ
this feels so backwards to me, growing up as primarily a lead climber and watching the bouldering scene, where many people allow their strength to carry them to V5 and then never progress past that because of a lack of technique. i’ve always thought technique is so much more important than strength but isn’t as flashy so it gets neglected
Very cool
I started doing something more or less similar to this 3 weeks ago and already feel some effects. I would add to this routine a bit of intensive stretching for back and hips, many people in my level (6c-7a) have big issues with hip flexibility. Lucky me, I only have to train finger strength, a bit of core and coordination to get myself to flow well at 7a level
With the campussing exercise, please note, that some beginning climbers try it and I've noticed they'll usually injure their shoulders or elbows because they lack some strength. (I work at a bouldering gym and seen this happen an insane amount of times)
So maybe show people as well what good campus technique is?
Edit
I forgot the part that these are for v5 - v8 climbers. But since I forgot, maybe others did as well, so please keep that in mind!
Great video about the realities of climbing. There’s too many videos that put forward the idea that technique is everything. They’ve never helped me one bit because I’m already trying all the usual things. It’s obvious that when pulling yourself up a wall on difficult holds that finger strength and upper body power to weight ratio are by far the most important attributes.
Certainly, and thanks.
Arguably, there's a lot of things to learn to be able to do a coordination dyno, slab, or corner pressing for instance. But for outdoors and more "regular" climbs, finger strength and body power will be more in demand than knowing exactly how to perform a dropknee.
Agreed! This was so validating to hear. I always argue with my partner that I simply am not capable of doing certain climbs because I lack the finger strength. He often insists I can compensate with technique, but in 99% of the cases that is not true. It's frustrating when I know what my own body is capable of but other people don't believe me.
@@SH-bw9nw Yeah, you can compensate for upper body strength with technique a bit, but you really can't compensate for finger strength if you already have the right beta.
What's up @Nikken! @21:02
thanks for making these instructive videos! do you typically do all of the exercises you mentioned within one training session? is there a certain order you would recommend doing them? and how many days of rest do you do between strength/power training sessions? thanks again Emil
Oh, they’re all done individually to what works for you as a person. Some people benefit from doing just a little every day, others by going a bit harder 2-3 days a week. See what works for you!
Fina videor. Men. Hittar endast Emils Sub Max Daily Fingerboard Routine på Crimpd. Vad missar jag?
7:16 the twitches in the left biceps are crazy!
LOOOOL the green boulder at Moumo with the move I couldn't do hit hard 🤣
What do you think about using momentum while campusing? I can't do campus boulders unless I use a lot of swing (V6 female climber here). Lovely videoseries!
For sure use momentum! In many cases I would say that’s even better, as learning how the swing affects your position will GREATLY help you with dynamic movements -> you’ll be more comfortable with dynamic movements -> you’ll build the power through doing them more often
Nikken waving in the background at the end😂
When do you recommend programming the weighted pull ups and the max hangs? I've been doing max hangs before my bouldering sessions, but never know when to fit in the pull ups (and am not sure if my max hangs are in the right spot either)!
I do them on a more general conditioning day where multiple large muscle groups are targeted. I generally do these before other shoulder exercises etc because they are hard to do (for me) if I’ve done presses, IYTs, etc beforehand.
I do weighted pull ups on a specific day because they really exhaust my shoulders and I know my climbing session quality would suffer because of it. You could do them the same day you do max hangs, but always do the hangs first. You want your finger training to always be the highest quality as possible.
Doing max hangs before bouldering is fine as long as you can achieve the goals for your bouldering session at the intended effort level desired. I.e if the goal was to try limit moves, it may not be wise to work your fingers that aggressively before hand.
Hi, how should climbers incorporate these exercises into their climbing regime? Should I do them before or after and how many times a week? Thank you!!
Instead of winning an online coaching session, can we just pay for your services lol, I'm at that V7-V8 level and this type of advice is great, thanks Emil!
do you plan on making videos like this for V8 + climbers? Do not get me wrong I am going to use those exercise because they are very interesting but I'd love to hear some more crispy tips or exercise for hardest projects. Thanks !
Oh yes. Next video is precisely that, I'll be talking about what I think you should do at V8 and above :-)
I suppose doing lock offs on the campus board can be a good substitute if no appropriate boulders are available or if its crowded
I would love to add to this wonderful regiment; that once in a while you should do a session where you climb normally, but then when you get fatigued you gradually climb easier and easier routes, until you physically can't climb ANYTHING in the gym.
This will force you to focus on how EXACTLY every part of your body aids your climbing and will strengthen your intuition for using these different parts of your entire body in harder climbs.
Would hangs on a regular bar still help? Obviously not as good as a proper edge but would it still get some of the benefits if biased towards the fingers and not gripping it fully
Love Eric wandering through in the orange hunting hat at 20:05
Nice video and hi Nikken 😂
There's a hidden Eric in there as well haha (but he's blurry and only there for a second)
@@EmilAbrahamsson Missed him at first but now I found him after you mentioned him. That's nice but the content is even better, I like those explanations of training possibilities.
Lmao Nikken guest appearance at 20:59
If you're going to climb dynamically, do a ton of stabilisation, strength and mobility to ensure your body can tolerate the additional force generated
7:17 emil's bicep is twitching! :0
Hey, great video and insights; have you considered joining the church of dyno yet?
I had the opposite experience. As a new climber I focused on strength a lot and as a result when I began to try harder grades I struggled due to poor technique but we chillin now
When that V5 climber looks at the camera and smiles he looks so alike to Martin Short in the movie Inner Space
Nikkan in the background!!
Good stuff although I've sworn off finger boarding. I have injured pulley tendons multiple times now, if not always on the board itself, always at a time when I'm finger-boarding regularly. I like climbing too much to risk it.
How are you supposed to get all of these exercises into your schedule though?
🗽 Unfortunately we have no extra weights to load in my gym. 🤔
.
21:01 Nikken!!😂🥳
when do you progress weight on the hangboard? if 90% of my max is say like 50lbs or whatever, when do I start going to 55, 60, 65lbs, etc.?
I always thought climbers actually did proper pull ups a lot more than other disciplines, because we're used to the shoulder shrug and engaging the scapula for a healthy range of motion. I also greatly prefer the hangboard to a bar. 50 kg is sick though, I can do 25 on a good day :D
On the campus exercise: Does it make sense to down climb the boulder in the end? When I try to campus a boulder I always do it (if I have some power left). Do you think this has a benefit?
I would think of this like doing negative pull ups so if you try to downclimb in a controlled way holding the tension as opposed to just flopping down then you'd definitely become stronger, would also aid it one arm pull arm skill 😁
Does it make sense from a muscle growth point of view : yes. Eccentric workout is actually the best to grow fibers. However, it's also provoking more injuries, statistically.
Does it make sense from a climbing point of view : no. You pretty much never downclimb anything while climbing.
If you're training endurance more with your campusing, there are some benefits. However, I believe it's best done for climbing related strength, and the specificity of downclimbing campus is quite low I would say.
It's not very different from saying you would downclimb a boulder you just did with feet, which is fine to do, but perhaps not the best for training. However, if it motivates you to try harder, go for it, just be careful since it can increase the risk of injury.
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thank you. Will have it in mind. 👍🏻
Yeah! Yeah! Yeah!
Yeah
I think there are new insights that when it comea to max strenght 3 sec. Hangs are actually enough. I think i heard it in the climbing podcast of neely quinn. Dont remember the episode though
Australian climber Mike Law had a similar sentiment to the opening quote: "strength is the best technique".
That "yeah" was a real good "yeah" video "yeah".
Would love to see a video discussing how to incorporate all these options. As doing all these protocols all the time would lead to injury it would be nice to see how you would approach programming/fitting stuff in finger training, strength training, campusing etc whilst also climbing normally
Nice one, what about v8 and above?
Coming up tomorrow!
Emil, how long do you keep your finger nails?
anyone have a good idea on how to organize this in your schedule? I’m used to weightlifting and having like a push, pull, leg routine. Is there something like that I can do with this?
How often and when to do these exercises?
At 7:17 Emil's bicep is wobbling like crazy but what really interests me is that his whole left arm is doing it too so its not just from the impact of catching the dyno. Could this be some form of reflex to stay on the wall like how if your car is out of control on ice or water or something you're meant to brake intermittently and make a kind of juddering motion? (This is probably complete waffle but its quite a cool idea anyway)
actually what about contact strength? you can't crimp on slopers. and i've always wondered what i can do with my palms.
I'm also trying to improve my slopers, I've found that shoulder strength matters a lot, and I've heard wrist strength is important. I think I'm gonna try that lattice heavy roller thing and see how that goes.
Is the weighted max hangs appropriate for a new climber? Only been climbing for about 10-12 times but just did my first 6C. I have heard a lot about waiting to start hangboarding until you have been climbinig consistently for two years.
Just feel it out. This whole wait til you've climbed for x amount of time is just weird. It's not done for any other kind of exercise.
If you've ever done a heavy deadlift I'm willing to bet you didn't worry about your fingers.
Sure accidents happen but most people aren't even strong enough to break their body in the way they worry about. If you're juicing, then it's definitely a worry
No. Tendon hypertrophy takes about 8 weeks. If you're new and train close to max intensity, you're connective tissue won't adapt fast enough to match your muscular strength.
Imo, if you're new and trying to progress:
- climb until you plateau
- add things like 4x4's or other sets of boulders that are hard, until you plateau
- add lower intensity (60-70%) grip training, do this for a few months
- then increase training intensity slowly (eg every month or two) up to max hangs
Main thing is to wait until you actually need to train to make progress.
I'd love to know why 2 minutes rest in finger exercise. Many people say 3-5 minutes rest is best for finger strength workout including Hooper's Beta. I realy like Crimped and I tried few of their workouts but I feel strange with this 2 minutes rest conception.
And thanks a lot for your content! : ))
We chose 2 minutes rest as it's sufficient time for most people to try hard again and makes the workout not overly long, but if you need more time between sets then definitely take it. The goal here is near-max effort, so as long as you are doing that then you're getting the intended stimulus.
@Crpimd Thank you for your answer. I will remember it. ; ) If I may make a suggestion, it would be great if the app had a feature to set break lengths other than the default.
21:00 A Nikken in the wild, performung the greeting-dance of his people.
I have a question about pull-ups Emil. I would put myself in the V6-V7 range as a climber but my biggest weakness is probably upper body strength. My finger strength is quite decent and a lot better developed than my pure pulling strength. How would you suggest training this, right now I can do maybe 6 pull-ups and I don’t really know how to efficiently train that. Big thanks for all your work, love the videos
Cheers Sam
maybe do them more often? there are different methodes...
e.g. some sets... 3 times a day if you leave the house, and come back home. that was my way, when i was going to work i did all i can without warmup. and when i came home again, all i could. i did it in the garden, on a cloth rail :D
or do sets.
warm up, do as much as you can, 3 times in a row, with small breaks. and then a few sets. with friend you can do pull up pyramids. start with 1, then your friend does 1. then you do 2, then he/she. up to 5 and back, 4, 3, 2, 1 again... this realy pumps^^
if you dont overdo it you might even try to do them everyday (if you arent completely sour from climbing). hope that helps ;)
u climb V7 and only can do 6 pull-ups? V7 slab or what
6 or 7 pull-ups is low but not necessarily critical. However, that's definitely something you could work one to improve this area.
Some advice here :
Option 1 : dedicate some time, before your usual sessions, to pull-ups. You want to find an exercise where you can do 3-4 pull-ups. It can be weighted pull-ups (start at +20% of your bodyweight, and see), it can be one-arm pull up with assistance (counter weight, a bad hold with your other arm, etc). Do 1 set of 3 or 4 reps with 4/5min of rest between each rep. After this you can climb as usual.That's it, do this for 3 weeks, once per week, and check the results.
Option 2 : campus boulders. Same approach as Emil, and try to vary from campusing dynamically and campusing more statically. Do this for about 30 to 45minutes in the beginning of the session (after warm-up !). Again, do this for 3 weeks, once per week, and check the results.
Option 3 : climb for a full month in overhangs between 20 and 45°. Dedicate almost all the session to this, say 1h30.
What to be careful of : elbow and biceps pain. But with the volume i've given, you should stay away from that. Have fun !
calisthenics movement (bald guy in blue pants) have a pullup training plan video. It worked for me, went from max 6 reps w +10kg to max 19 reps w +10kg in about 4 months
Power vs. Technique is the basis for a bet that a friend and I have going on. He has only been climbing for a year and hasn't fully developed technique yet but he's really strong. I've been climbing for 10 years and I like to think I've got pretty good technique. However I don't have a lot of strength. We're both trying to flash a 7a+ first and the loser has to buy the other's steak. I'm very excited to start building more power because it's something I've always meant to do but never had this fun motivation before.
Counter argument Dave Graham with two knee pads.
Good one.
And then Nikken at 21:03 😂
To gain more fingerstrengt, i climb crimp grips, to gain upperbody strengt i just climb everything but usually most things requiring larger arm movements and hip movement. To gain leg strengt i lift with my legs. Climbing is training.
I'll get back to you when I can do one unweighted pull-up, haha.
Every other climbing teacher: "focus on technique and don't worry about strength early on"
Emil: "strength is all that matters, just do four hours of one arm weighted campus dynos every day"
I don't know if this is meant to be a giant troll to deliberately go against every other piece of advice I've heard or a legitimate opinion. For every climber who good at slow, controlled static climbing there's a teenage boy who muscles his way through every problem and spends most of the time practising dynos.
21:01 Hello there.
I tend to think of good technique as the movements and positions where you'll expend the least energy (while completing the climb, ofc). Helps keep away dogmatic feelings about different styles, but it doesn't really instruct you as to how to approach any single climb.
“No matter how much technique an ant has, it will never defeat an elephant.” Strength is not everything but definitely an important component.
"Ya"