I dedicate years to climb rocks with funny names
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- It's time to have a look at "The big island" 8C/v15, and my upcoming battle with it.
In this episode I discuss what has recently happened on it, as well as dive into my plan of attack to take it down. I also show my project at home, a boulder of a very similar style and difficulty, just on much more chossy stone.
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:24 Where it started
1:30 My last visit
4:30 Plan of attack
5:55 Hard project in Stockholm
My gear:
Favorite shoes
MadRock Drone madrock.com/collections/shoes...
MadRock Drone CS madrock.com/collections/shoes...
Chalk Bucket
madrock.com/collections/chalk...
Chalk bag
madrock.com/collections/chalk...
Everything shot on Sony A7SIII with Tamron lenses.
PATREON LINK HERE: / emilabrahamsson
Any support is incredibly welcomed and appreciated. You all make the content happen!
Instagram:
/ emil_abrahamsson_
/ cordiclimbs
Watching people climb this hard really makes me think about human potential. We are already so far above what we thought was possible 70 years ago.
Especially when you think that the people who made the Yosemite grading system thought that humans would max out at 5.10 or 5.11
The year I started climbing, the hardest route in the world was 5.12+(7c). At this point I am into year 5 of my first 14a (8b+)
Thank you for translating all the bouldering jargon in the video. Personally do not need them anymore, but would have been so much easier to follow climbing related videos at the beginning, if that was always the case.
i was about to mention just that, makes it more friendly to who's just coming in
Newbie here and can confirm they helped a lot, so many terms I’ve heard vaguely before that now make sense thanks to these clarifications.
the funny name rocks are the coolest ones, valid time dedication
love the explanations of specific terms in the corner
I can't wait to see video's of you trying the big island again!!! we all believe you can do it.
Awesome that you are returning to the Big Island! Been following you since the early days of EKB, always inspiring to see your process on doing hard climbs.
PS: "Assis" in French is pronounced "Assi" - as is often the case (we're annoying like that), the final s is silent.
Haha god damn it I actually knew that in the back of my mind, my french is so brutal and bad :-P
@@EmilAbrahamsson Why are you calling it "assis" anyways if it's not in France? Just make it easy for you and call it whatever "sit" is in Swedish :D
@@Kaptn_Knackebrotsit is sitt in Swedish 😅
Yes Emil! Your psyche is always contagious!
Let's go Emil!! Very psyched to see you on the big island, would be great to see you go for it again
The definitions are such a smart and nice addition, when i first got into climbing thay was the hardest part, now i speak another language lmao
Relatable title
Such a fantastic video!
Great stuff Emil! Psyched to get on my V5 project this weekend now
So happy to see you back to climbing in font and on Big Island. Would love to see videos of you on easier font boulders too.
You‘ll lift that stick! We believe in you! 😂
So psyched for more upcoming outdoor videos and looking forward to seeing how far you can level up on Big Island.
Oh and by the way, watching the failed initial 3 finger drag attempt and the tries at the end of the video (both for left and right) it seems like a lot of it might be neurological adaptation & better positioning: for the first failed try you seemed to engaged your shoulders more. I think the grip requires a slightly different more passive positioning relative to the hold (both on the wall & hangboard) and your later attempts appear to show an increased awareness for that. Ofc I might be wrong here and imagining things
Oh i think you're spot on! I definitely haven't gotten stronger, but my brain is starting to understand some things. Nicely observed!
i realy enjoid the part starting at 0:57 :D
especially the gollum bit. very accurate description of your self in that shot haha :D
This gets me so hyped!!!
Long term projects are lifeblood
About to head to what should be a long term project. Thanks for the psyche!!
Nice video! I gat so motivated!🐐 Keep it up!!! 👍
Cheers mate!
Fire content as per usual
Thanks homie
I love your videos, they maje me siled to climb
This stuff gets me way too stoked, I need to start training again!
Hell yeah, now im inspired to do the boulder I set on our small home wall. It's probably v18 because I'm a bad setter, but I'm psyched!
V18 is a good level. Get it
The "choss" looks better than anything within a 5 hour radius of where I live in Southern England
Inspiration
Banger
First off super stoked for you for getting some of the moves down.
Secondly i just need to know where are those corduroy pants from!!!!!
Very nice vid Emil. I really wish you the best for Big Island ! As a french dude, if i may add a lil something.. we don't prononce the "s" in assis. We say "assi" 😉
Stockholm needs its first 8C! Kom igen nu!
Erik hinted at collabing on a project with you, really hope its a story of this boulder, excited to see u send!
We have a few things in mind! Filming on this with him would be a bit of a dream, we'll see if we can make it happen
Ludo’s beta always the best in Font !
I feel the same way about my home crag.
yes good i like it
Dude at 4:24 deserves a raise
Where are the cord trousers you are always wearing from?
Lattice heavy roller or similar device a good way to train strength for those slopers?
It’s outdoor content season, used to pray for times like these 😭
Do you prefer the original Drones over the 2.0s for these climbs? How do you decide whether to use the original vs 2.0 vs CS?
When I shot this the 2.0s hadn't been released yet! I would say the 2.0s and orignal serve a very similar purpose, but the CS I use smears, and since it's softer I get a bit more sensitivity from some heel/and toe-hooks!
How long rest do you have between red point burns?
Depends a lot, anywhere between 2-8 minutes I would say. I rarely rest longer, but for some people a longer rest is crucial
@@EmilAbrahamsson thanks mate!
How long does it take for you to drive to Fontainebleau?
It’s around 35-50 hours of travelling depending on how fast I wanna do it
8C? According to Darth Grader?
Hanaa
what happened to cordi? she's never in the videos anymore
Bring back the hat
Assis is an achronym for Ass In Soil
Unironically the fan is aid lol. You're literally having it on the rock.
To clarify though, obviously it doesn't aid THAT much.
nice vid but please stop with the vocabulary thing in bottom left corner.
vid = video
Why? Feels weird to complain about something done to make the video more accessible for newer climbers
I can’t imagine any reason why someone would complain about this.