Top 4 tricks every climber should use
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- Опубликовано: 2 июн 2024
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Timestamps:
0:00 Tip #1 Use your strengths
2:10 Tip #2: Visualize the climb
6:12 Tip #3: Memorize movement
7:20 Tip #4: Learn from mistakes
11:18 Bonus tip!
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One of my favorite tricks to use EVERY session is to create a plan and then immediately forget that plan when I see my friends projecting a new climb.
mines exactly that but halfway through the hangboard sesh i look over at the moon board and spend the rest of the session destroying my skin on that beast
@@evanhales2283 To be fair: Thats leggit training!
every "take it easy" session... always ends on the Kilter Board 😂💪
My sessions are a lot of times just kiltering 2 hrs in a row, perfectly fine on some static routs that dont delete your skin
Excellent, straight to the point, no waste of time, just perfect
Thank you very much ❤
ive just recently found you, but your tips and tricks help me alot. its also been real fun trying these training technics you suggested in some of your previous vids :)
Thanks friend! I appreciate the support :-)
Lucky you! You have so many hours of top notch content waiting for you on this channel 🍀
nice video . good tips and always good climbs
Great tips! I love visualizing the beta beforehand and trying to remember the moves so they feel more instinctive as I climb - saves a lot of energy!
Kind of funny you immediately disregarded your own advice on the last boulders and started them from the bottom again after you fell 😜
Haha yeah I’m not always great at it :P but it’s something to always strive towards!
Appreciate these real tactical tips. I think tactics are a lost art... to me at least.
Nothing better than some Emil motivation before your session
Hey Emil, I waned to tell you that I love and really appreciate your channel. You are the best!
Hey! Thanks a ton for taking the time to say so, I really appreciate it ☺️
Emil, you have saved my night with this video
Haha you’re too kind, thanks mate
Beautiful video as always Emil! Would have loved a close-up of Teos face at 13:11 :D
great video! i gotta say the second climb with the big triangle holds i see as dangerous because i have fallen on those before and it took the air out of my lungs. pretty painful. just me being clumsy maybe haha, but i am careful with those when i see them.
Way to crush all the hardest routes! As much as I want to get better (V9ish max currently) I'm glad that I'm not maxing out my gym yet.
Cheers mate!
I always say V9 was my favorite grade, there's an endless amount of climbing to try but you can still have a go at top level stuff and still enjoy it
Thanks for the reply!@@EmilAbrahamsson
Personally love the last tip 😅😅. It's one of my hobbies so don't want to make it too stressful as a hobby only!
Is there any strength training you do for those types of hard overhead gastons at the beginning, or is it just a lot of trying them to improve?
Hey Emil, fellow tall/big climber here so I'm a fan of skipping the scrunchy positions. I'm curious what you think of everyone saying you should work uour weaknesses in light of tip #1?
It depends on your goals! If you want to reach the highest grade you can: work your strengths. If you want to be as well rounded as possible, work weaknesses!
For instance, I'm quite large and am relatively bad at static, tensiony moves on pockets. My hardest grade in that style would probably be around V11-12, but in my style (dynamic, slopers, etc) I climb much harder in grade
It's one of those climbing mantras that isn't supported by much. Emil answered that in a good way, but also, keep in my mind that there are some critical qualities for climbing, and an endless list of "useful, but not critical" qualities too. You can spend as much time as you want on those useful (or, not totally useless) qualities, it won't make that much of a difference to your level. That's a first thing (so, yes, you can work on your kneebaring 3 hours per week, it's not totally useless. won't change much in your climbing, i can guarantee)
My advice on that, is : do both, and work in a "critical path". On a given climb, your path would be :
-find at least one solution for every move
-find at least one whole sequence that gets you to the top
-optimize/refine (which is, find different solutions, and choose one of them)
-send.
In the refining process, you can either always choose your "natural" style, or choose a "weakness" that suits better the climb. For instance, you're tall, and oftenly choose to keep your feet low when you can, since you have the reach to do so. But on this mantle, it's really random to do so, you end up quite stretched. Your shorter friend uses a heelhook, which enable him to do the move 100% of the time.
On this example, it's perfectly fine to try to flash the boulder with your low foot. That's very probably your best chance to flash it. But while working on the boulder, you might want to try different approaches, as it may prove to be a better way of doing the climb.
My take on that is ultimately that you will still default to your climbing style 2/3 of the time. But this last third is critical to overall progression and sending, and while not getting a master at those weaknesses, you'll be at least decent in that.
Lastly, there is absolutely no problem at really sucking in something. Usually, it's also because you don't really enjoy that. You can hate crack climbing, or slab, or overhangs, not because you fear that, but because it's not enjoyable for you. You will usually end up sucking at those, and that's perfectly fine and acceptable.
Is that a cheeky Teo cameo at 13:08
it most certainly is!
Completely unrelated but are you planning on visiting Kjugekull and Hultastenen any time soon?
I have definitely considered it! It’s a bit of a drive, so I’m not sure when I’ll make it down there, but I certainly want to
Hey Emil. I'll gonna be in Stockholm for a couple of days in December.
What climbing gym would you recommend?
Aaand vegan restaurant please *-*
You are always giving so many great advices, so I'll count on you on this one 😂
Moumo (where this video was filmed), Klättercentret Telefonplan and BLX (The long Dyno gym) :) Those three gyms will get you far.
The advice above works well for the gyms! There’s a nice vegan place called Chutney close to Moumo :-) there’s almost always vegan options around also!
Thanks guys. Appreciate it a lot! I'll give moumo a try then :)
The first tip is a very good one for sending boulders. But for training, for me it is not a good advice. I feel it is important to train your weakness. And doing different beta for the same boulder, even if one is harder is a good training exercice. Still a great vidéo !!!
He did his anti style boulders later in the session, at easier grades.
I feel like unless you wanna actually go pro, if you want to push towards the highest grades it makes a lot of sense to push your natural strengths as far as possible. Of course keeping up your weaknesses is good as well but for me personally, im totally fine staying 2-3 V grades lower on my antistyle.
Overall, unless you are a pro its all about whats fun to you! I hate slab climbing so why would i spend hours on it to get better?
You don't have to want to go pro to properly train and want to improve. Being a complete climber is pretty important to perform on every type of boulder/route.
@@zoroox64yes, having a well rounded skill set is pretty important to perform on every type of boulder. The thing is however, performing on every type of boulder is not important (unless you're a pro, obv).
It depends on your personal goals - if you want to be able to do every type of climb, train your weaknesses. If you want to have fun and just do some highest graded boulders, train your strengths. That easy
Circling back to Emil's last point, don't overthink it. Have fun.
omg a person who has the same name as me.... i found you randomly in my "for you" page. I only know one other person who has the Name Emil. Its so rare XDDD
Surprised you're not in the new 2.0 drones! Prefer the originals?
Haha just a coincidence, I almost always use the 2.0s nowadays :-) Breaking in a new pair, and decided to go with these for the session
8:20 interesting, I always thought that's better to simulate how tired I would be when I get to the move I fell on. If I can do it completely fresh, but can't do it when coming from the bottom, than I am not sure how useful it will be. Practicing the move when tired might make you find a way that is more efficient. Doing the move when you are fresh, might make you power through and use more strength instead of technique.
On routes I’d agree, but generally speaking on boulders I believe moves are best practiced in isolation. The thing is, if you don’t have enough finger strength left to properly hold onto the holds, you can’t apply any form of technique
How Long you have been climbing yet?
Around 11 years now! Quite some time
Nice i ve been climbing for 6 years now
You're drinking LMNT, I'm drinking laxatives in gatorade
'heinous holds!' this MF has better vocabulary than me! :D definition: 'very bad and shocking'
use your strengths, visualise, verbalise (from memory), practise specific mistakes, enjoy and learn on the fly... Great tips!
Thanks mate!
ah so first tip, be tall and reach, got it XD
The best way to progress is to Enjoy what your doing
Your much more likely to stick to something you enjoy
And if you put enough time into anything
You’ll get better at it
Practice makes perfect
No. Sometimes you hit a plateau. Sometimes you have to do exercise you don’t really like. It’s all part of the journey, but you don’t have to like every minute of it.
@@Mike-oz4cv okay 👍
8:56 other left... 😉
2nd guy to comment
wow very good tip "be tall" congrats
That’s not quite the entire tip, but if that’s what you took from it then I can’t help yah!
if that's all you got from the video that's your bother..
Hagen Mac shmagen
😃 'Promosm'
Goodbye homie
The 4 tips being right up front is twrrific
Fun fact: if a boulder was set with an intended beta and is given a grade, then that grade doesn't apply if you climb the boulder with different beta because you're no longer climbing the same route. Emil's first climb in this video proves the point because the intended beta was harder for him to do (v11), so he did something which made the problem feel easier.
You're half right I would say :-) The difference lies in body sizes and how that affect grades. For instance, Nikken who set it is a fair bit shorter than me, so for him my method would be more around V13 probably, but equally so since he is a bit shorter his intended method puts him in a much more manageable box, making that method V11 for him and maybe V12-13 for me. E.G both methods are the same grade, but my method is a bit harder for the average human, since I'm a bit above average height
That makes no sense.
The correct way to look at grades (i take that from Henning Wang, who has formulated it this way) is to understand that grades are a somewhat consensus among climbers. This consensus is set, in a vast majority, by male adult climbers. Those climbers average a certain height, weight, wingspan, finger size, and so on. Keep in mind that the higher you get in grades, the less diverse the sample of climber gets. The representation of climbers others than male adult gets lower and lower. The more you deviate from this average sender, the more frequently you'll feel different from the grade that is given to a climb. The beta chosen from the climber is a consequence of this fact (and has then no impact on the actual grade : the real impact is the climber).
A child will very, very frequently not feel the same about a problem compared to the consensus.
A female will (on average !) frequently not feel the same about a problem compared to the consensus
A short climber, like me (1m57) will very frequently feel different.
A tall climber, like Emil, will very frequently feel different.@@TheBanana202
When i say "feel different", it can be both way, harder or easier.
@@TheBanana202 doesn’t surprise me you feel that way. Most climbers seem to have little to no critical thinking skills when it comes to assigning objective grades to a totally subjective activity.
Tip #1: Be tall.