Subscribed! Why? Because you are real AF homie!!!! You are the only one out of the youtube rc wrenchers who give USEFUL information. I'm doing this work on my living room floor homie, and your tips got me back up and running. Thanks bro!
Very detailed and the result of lots of experience. That’s how I set my tightness as well. Sanding the spring is a new idea. Maybe just lye or easy off oven spray could make it easier.
Good knowledge bro. Thanks for sharing. One quick note, if you don’t want to reduce the size of ‘specialty nut’ and input shaft, you can order Arrma’s new short input shaft that compensates for the new slipper hardware. Love your videos bro
Black moly moly 1/2:3n1 slicker than snot I use ing it for ring pinyon grunt and rear the modified safety nut is the shit ,great content bro 💯 likes in the future for quality I'm in 👌
Hi I just replaced mine with a differential you'll love it balances out the power front the rear launches out of the hole like crazy and no more wheelies.
Yes But if you ask your local hobby shop, they will call it a center differential it is the best mod you can do for your RC truck. You will absolutely love it.
I would try the center locking spool. The one you're talking about if you can't find the differential. I bought mine from Hobby Town. In plano texas Super cool guys that work there, too. They are really nice people.
I am new to all this, I purchased an aluminum motor mount, center block support. The piece that slides out with strap. Then it came with a slipper spool all steel. But the spur they gave me is 57T, the vendetta has a 50T. So I want to swap the 50T on the all new steel slipper spool. So this should help a lot. I don’t know shit about “shimming” or nothing. I may break it.
I've done this with my senton I've upgraded to a 3s system and all it does is spin the slipper. I glued the plates to the hubs and now it just burns up pinion gears. I had no problems out of the plastic spur and stock slipper set up. I put in the metal 57t and nothing but problems.
I reused the stock clutch pads on a hot racing steel spur for my vorteks 3s and it slip’s really bad, I think I need too use different pads and use 4 pretty sure I only installed 3 pads
I cut it and half with a razor and I didn’t have to trim the end where the motor goes cause it fit all the way in now just got to change my clutch slipper pads and it’s good as new
My Home Depot Has the same set screw it’s a M2.5x25mm cap head screw but any screw with the same diameter and and a length of at least 20mm works the same I’ve had better luck with a Phillips head that’s 20mm than the ones arrma provides
Kind of simple but I’m shocked they don’t send the right sized part for the stock slipper hub seems weird I would have to cut that nut and shaft but hey you say it works. My issues with the Granite is the motor seized on me once and on my second Granite after bad landings now something is wining like really load not sure what it is as I’m a noob. I have a video if you wish too check it out and comment on a suggestion for repair. All the power is their but it’s loud I think the crappy bearings in the motor can are done. Thanks man cheers 🍻
@@seanhamilton4175 with some handy work done too the spur gear it’s working good again on my Granite. Needed to be re meshed after some spur got chewed up
You are on the right track...but to make your life easier...u can purchase a shorter input gear (ARA311031) and as far as the little lock nut...if it's plastic with metal threads you'll still need loctite and it may come loose on you...the newer maintenance kit comes with a little locknut but it's all plastic ( ARA311033) and it will never come loose on you. The only time you would need to cut the input gear a little shorter is if you are using the hotracing input gear because it doesnt come in a shorter form. Ref: ruclips.net/video/KKX6MwXOrtc/видео.html
Personally, I would have to disagree... I love my HR cluch pads. I kinda swear by them. I've had no issues with mine I run them in the typhoon, & k4. May I ask why you don't like them? Just currious.. thanks for the awsome input
I Have The Vendetta & My Buddy Has The Infraction, We Both Running 4s, We Race On A Parking Lot, So If Tighteen My Slipper Clutch Just A Little Bit, I Will Have A Better Take Off, On The Corners Or Turns, Right??
Yes it is. Its still tight. 6 packs later. I am noticing alot of dust in the motor mount housing, and there is a little more play in the cluch i think (I know) its the pads now. So I just got some hotracing aluminum pads, were gonna install. I've been running an aluminum pad in the 3s typhoon mega set up with no play or wear. So to answer the question yes its holding up to my hard driving and i recommend setting the screw a little tighter than I recommend in video, if set to loose I noticed the pads wear down faster.. thank you & good luck my friend
@@IRONCLADRCI was thinking about that. Very good point. Tightening it a lil more so there is less slip and less grind. I've sanded down the grooves in the metal pads.
I gave up on mine and just tighten the shit out of it now I have no problem besides popping out cvd or breaking them because the car pulls to hard but I hate taking that thing apart every single time I run it lol now been months not a single problem besides breaking cvd because not knowing about the set screw lol
Oh man I wanna say 2mm or 2.5 I drilled and taped the hole out in the center to accept the larger screw. The 3 on the outside of the home made spool are 2mm counter sank the screw heads and grinded the top flush to clear the inside of the mount
There's a slipper clutch rebuild kit available, it has the special screw bushings & new spring. Use red loc-tite on the slipper screw when rebuilding the slipper. Or you could buy a new slipper assembly prebuilt
@@IRONCLADRC I bought the whole slipper clutch setup the second most expensive one that amainhobby's had cost me 45.00$ can't you just super glue the slipper clutch to eliminate it that's what I did to my Traxxas slash
@@IRONCLADRC no worries I was actually doing that when I commented.. threw it back together and it's doing as good as when it left the box... Not gonna push my luck but it'll give me a chance to drive with my mate atleast once 😂👌
Hey, where did you get the plastic nut with the metal nut inside, I purchased the arrma slipper maintenance kit and hobbytown said that they only make a plastic nut. So I was wondering where you got it...
I like to use what I have instead of waiting a week (ups). Wanted to show people how to do it without spending an extra 10bucks. Every penny helps in this expensive hobby
ok I am new to the Kraton 4 S So today started making a Noies When I Take the Car off the Ground No Noies Soon as I put on ground Click Noies Any Help Thanks
3 hot racing pads and 1 stock pad, 1 stock pad goes on the front side that takes only 2 pads.. stock on bottom and hotracing on top steel spur gear 4s clutch assembly
@@IRONCLADRC I removed my metal slipper pads and used plastic on my metal spur. They were almost impossible to work with to get my slipper clutch at the perfect tightness. It was always either too tight, or too loose. When it was too loose the truck was slow and no power. Tightened it just a little and i would snap driveshafts. Throw them metal pads away haha
I have 2-3s an 3 =6s an don't have a clue what u mean.....everyone else been rc'ing since the 80's an 8 have no problems whatsoever maybe ya'all are to tough on your shit 3:42
Finally a video that shows how much the slipper clutch should slip. Thank you. Only video that shows how it should slip.
Subscribed! Why? Because you are real AF homie!!!! You are the only one out of the youtube rc wrenchers who give USEFUL information. I'm doing this work on my living room floor homie, and your tips got me back up and running. Thanks bro!
Very detailed and the result of lots of experience. That’s how I set my tightness as well. Sanding the spring is a new idea. Maybe just lye or easy off oven spray could make it easier.
Good knowledge bro. Thanks for sharing. One quick note, if you don’t want to reduce the size of ‘specialty nut’ and input shaft, you can order Arrma’s new short input shaft that compensates for the new slipper hardware. Love your videos bro
Do you have the part number for the short input shaft? Thanks
Well that specialty nut isn't like your it's just a hard plastic without the thread and I lost it. Finally got it working then it breaks again
What is the part number for this shortened input shaft
Black moly moly 1/2:3n1 slicker than snot I use ing it for ring pinyon grunt and rear the modified safety nut is the shit ,great content bro 💯 likes in the future for quality I'm in 👌
Great vid bro, I appreciate the help. I especially liked the, "that's what she said" comment. Subscribed.
Genius idea. I tried it and it really works in all your videos got good content in them it was a quick good fix I like it
Great energy hah, fun to watch!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed video
Hi I just replaced mine with a differential you'll love it balances out the power front the rear launches out of the hole like crazy and no more wheelies.
You mean a center spool?
Yes But if you ask your local hobby shop, they will call it a center differential it is the best mod you can do for your RC truck. You will absolutely love it.
@@andrewfrost4802 where did you get it? I can't find any differentials other then a center locking spool
I would try the center locking spool. The one you're talking about if you can't find the differential. I bought mine from Hobby Town. In plano texas Super cool guys that work there, too. They are really nice people.
I forgot to ask you what kind of RC car you have?
I am new to all this, I purchased an aluminum motor mount, center block support. The piece that slides out with strap. Then it came with a slipper spool all steel. But the spur they gave me is 57T, the vendetta has a 50T. So I want to swap the 50T on the all new steel slipper spool. So this should help a lot. I don’t know shit about “shimming” or nothing. I may break it.
Definitely need one like this for speed runs and dirt track racing with the guys ..#ccrc
I've done this with my senton I've upgraded to a 3s system and all it does is spin the slipper. I glued the plates to the hubs and now it just burns up pinion gears. I had no problems out of the plastic spur and stock slipper set up. I put in the metal 57t and nothing but problems.
I reused the stock clutch pads on a hot racing steel spur for my vorteks 3s and it slip’s really bad, I think I need too use different pads and use 4 pretty sure I only installed 3 pads
Detailed excellent!
Subbed😂
Wish i had watched first.
Bought 2 HR pads instead of 3.🤦♂️ is it ok to mix composite and aluminum pads?
I like the spool modification, definitely only for speed runs
I cut it and half with a razor and I didn’t have to trim the end where the motor goes cause it fit all the way in now just got to change my clutch slipper pads and it’s good as new
Great content. This is a good wisdom sharing vid. Thank you.
Yes sir thanks for watching
My Home Depot Has the same set screw it’s a M2.5x25mm cap head screw but any screw with the same diameter and and a length of at least 20mm works the same I’ve had better luck with a Phillips head that’s 20mm than the ones arrma provides
Thanks for the information
Yea hard work pays off baby..
Kind of simple but I’m shocked they don’t send the right sized part for the stock slipper hub seems weird I would have to cut that nut and shaft but hey you say it works.
My issues with the Granite is the motor seized on me once and on my second Granite after bad landings now something is wining like really load not sure what it is as I’m a noob.
I have a video if you wish too check it out and comment on a suggestion for repair.
All the power is their but it’s loud I think the crappy bearings in the motor can are done.
Thanks man cheers 🍻
That's because it's a V2 input shaft. The V3 one is shorter so no need to file anything
@@seanhamilton4175 with some handy work done too the spur gear it’s working good again on my Granite. Needed to be re meshed after some spur got chewed up
Good video thanks ☺️
You are on the right track...but to make your life easier...u can purchase a shorter input gear (ARA311031) and as far as the little lock nut...if it's plastic with metal threads you'll still need loctite and it may come loose on you...the newer maintenance kit comes with a little locknut but it's all plastic ( ARA311033) and it will never come loose on you. The only time you would need to cut the input gear a little shorter is if you are using the hotracing input gear because it doesnt come in a shorter form. Ref: ruclips.net/video/KKX6MwXOrtc/видео.html
Great information my friend thank you
@@IRONCLADRC Dude You Rock!
Well that explains why I couldn't get my clutch to work right after upgrading to the metal gear, I only had 3 pads from the plastic gear. Thanks.
@@secret5. If you buy HR parts...DO NOT USE THE METAL SLIPPER PADS. stick with the stock ones
Personally, I would have to disagree... I love my HR cluch pads. I kinda swear by them. I've had no issues with mine I run them in the typhoon, & k4. May I ask why you don't like them? Just currious.. thanks for the awsome input
Awesome thanks for the great info 👍 😀 what gears should I use to make my 3s Typhon with some Hoons get to scooting?
Great video thanks 😊 👍
Yes sir buddy
Good knowledge for sure
Now I got a metal spur, but now it's grinding again I'm thinking it's the front differential since it grind when doing wheelie
I bought a slipper clutch maintenance kit and it it stripped right away. As of I bought the complete slipper clutch kit
I had the same issue. Waist of money
Cool deal
I Have The Vendetta & My Buddy Has The Infraction, We Both Running 4s, We Race On A Parking Lot, So If Tighteen My Slipper Clutch Just A Little Bit, I Will Have A Better Take Off, On The Corners Or Turns, Right??
Yes sir that's correct, don't over tighten or you'll run into problems
@@IRONCLADRC Ok Thanks Man!! I Appreciate..!👍😊👍 I Just Hope My Buddy Dosen't See This Question Or Comment...Lol!😆
can you drill out the stripped hub and tap it a size bigger and use a bigger screw?
Iive thought about that, never done it.... not saying it cant be done
ive been running my big rock for a while im hearing screetching louder sound from slipper area? what needs replacing?
I dint even run a spring on my screw I just tighten it with locktite and and back off a quarter turn
Is it still holding up? Thinking about doing this myself tomorrow.
Yes it is. Its still tight. 6 packs later. I am noticing alot of dust in the motor mount housing, and there is a little more play in the cluch i think (I know) its the pads now. So I just got some hotracing aluminum pads, were gonna install. I've been running an aluminum pad in the 3s typhoon mega set up with no play or wear. So to answer the question yes its holding up to my hard driving and i recommend setting the screw a little tighter than I recommend in video, if set to loose I noticed the pads wear down faster.. thank you & good luck my friend
@@IRONCLADRCI was thinking about that. Very good point. Tightening it a lil more so there is less slip and less grind. I've sanded down the grooves in the metal pads.
Yes I recommend it.
I gave up on mine and just tighten the shit out of it now I have no problem besides popping out cvd or breaking them because the car pulls to hard but I hate taking that thing apart every single time I run it lol now been months not a single problem besides breaking cvd because not knowing about the set screw lol
Yeah I back mine out half a turn instead of the 1 full turn, or 1.5, whichever it is. Haven’t had a slipper clutch issue since
This is only really for the v1 and v2 i believe? The V3 has a much better mount and slipper kit
I realize I'm kinda randomly asking but does anybody know a good place to watch new series online?
@Roberto Elias flixportal
@Rey Davian thank you, I went there and it seems to work :) I appreciate it!!
@Roberto Elias glad I could help =)
Ironclad.. what size flat head screws are those on that spool gear if you don't mind me asking??
Oh man I wanna say 2mm or 2.5 I drilled and taped the hole out in the center to accept the larger screw. The 3 on the outside of the home made spool are 2mm counter sank the screw heads and grinded the top flush to clear the inside of the mount
I have a granite 4x4 mega and put in a blx100 system in it the slipper clutch just slips i got two runs out of it what do I do to fix it?
There's a slipper clutch rebuild kit available, it has the special screw bushings & new spring. Use red loc-tite on the slipper screw when rebuilding the slipper. Or you could buy a new slipper assembly prebuilt
@@IRONCLADRC I bought the whole slipper clutch setup the second most expensive one that amainhobby's had cost me 45.00$ can't you just super glue the slipper clutch to eliminate it that's what I did to my Traxxas slash
Are the V2 4s outcasts slipper pads like PCB boards.. im sure it had metal on them the last time I checked it😂
Not sure brother
@@IRONCLADRC no worries I was actually doing that when I commented.. threw it back together and it's doing as good as when it left the box... Not gonna push my luck but it'll give me a chance to drive with my mate atleast once 😂👌
Cheers 👍
Been doing this for years now. With locknut grind down to fit flat an lasts longer than that brass shit plastic .nut
I tightened my slipper all the way and the only thing that happened was I think I melted it lol it got really hot and all it does is slip
Damn Arrma makes this stuff to break on purpose.
Don't need to cut nothing just need to get a newer input shaft that is shorter they have it!
Nice. Thanks for your input very helpful. Thanks for watching.
Hey, where did you get the plastic nut with the metal nut inside, I purchased the arrma slipper maintenance kit and hobbytown said that they only make a plastic nut. So I was wondering where you got it...
I think it was in the old rebuild kits.
@@IRONCLADRC is there a place that sells new old stock?
Not sure brother 😕
Dude just get the shorter input gear and slipper maintenance kit. Damm man I thought everyone knew they make a short input gear
I like to use what I have instead of waiting a week (ups). Wanted to show people how to do it without spending an extra 10bucks. Every penny helps in this expensive hobby
do you have a # Would appreciate it
If anyone knows how please help me out any suggestions thank you
ok I am new to the Kraton 4 S So today started making a Noies When I Take the Car off the Ground No Noies Soon as I put on ground Click Noies Any Help Thanks
Sounds like a diff problem? Possibly a planet/sun gear in the diff.... check bearings also
How important is the spring part?maybe thats why iv anialated 5 clutch sets💀😭
Gotta run the spring, I learned the hard way too
@@IRONCLADRCpreciate u bro...I knew suin wasn't right ..
@@IRONCLADRCprobably best explanation on the tube too bro..if I never came across ur vid..I'd be still scratching my head😭🤦♂️
Makes sense 3s ...4s pad count
I think the 3s clutch assembly will only take 3 pads so run 3 total hotracing pads
@@IRONCLADRC yes got the alum pads
SET YOUR CAMERA TO AUTO FOCUS....
Thanks, I've since started using auto focus
'Learn this 1 simple trick.. in 25 minutes.'
You use 4 pads all together
3 hot racing pads and 1 stock pad, 1 stock pad goes on the front side that takes only 2 pads.. stock on bottom and hotracing on top steel spur gear 4s clutch assembly
@@IRONCLADRC I removed my metal slipper pads and used plastic on my metal spur. They were almost impossible to work with to get my slipper clutch at the perfect tightness. It was always either too tight, or too loose. When it was too loose the truck was slow and no power. Tightened it just a little and i would snap driveshafts. Throw them metal pads away haha
I like mine just got another set
@@IRONCLADRC yea
3 hr 1 plastic. Wrk good now
That looks bigger then a 3640 for some reason 🤔
Nope it's a 3640
Bekloppt
Stop yelling at me bru
You started it
Too much yelling.
Thank you for being honest..
I have 2-3s an 3 =6s an don't have a clue what u mean.....everyone else been rc'ing since the 80's an 8 have no problems whatsoever maybe ya'all are to tough on your shit 3:42