I have no desire to drill a well, but this video seemed so preposterous I had to click. And I was pleasantly surprised at how well it all came together.
As a 6th generation water well driller, i commend you brother, great job. Id like to add that this application can be done in sand, for a regular well here in florida you would want to seat the casing into the limerock, but a cheaper and easy way to just get water you did an absolute great job for a sand point well. Cheers
Question: In the video here, it looks like the wellpoint is below the casing. Someone told me that the casing should extend some feet below the bottom of the wellpoint to keep the well from caving in. Is this a requirement? I am in Florida where soil is really sandy, and just want to put down a shallow well for pitcher pump in case of emergency. My neighbor has a pond, and during height of drought period, the water was about 10 feet below ground level. Now that we are getting a good bit of rain, the water is only around three feet below ground. I figured I would shoot for minimum of 20 feet with my 1 1/4 4' wellpoint. I sunk a 2'' pipe down around 10 - 12 feet so far. If I drop string in pipe, water is about 3 -4 feet level. I can insert about 20' of 1in. into 2'' pipe before it bottoms out. Given that this is just for low volume pitcher pump application, can you tell me if I need to get 2'' pipe below the wellpoint depth?
@@muckeyduck3472 Not an expert but I did dug a few wells similar like this one here in Holland. And you are right, normaly the casing should extend a few feet below the bottom of your intake pipe or hose. And thats the thing here: he uses the intake pipe as a wellpoint and jammed this further/deeper in the ground then the casing. (the wellpoint being the 8 feet tipped end with all the slids for waterintake) What I did is use a casing that has these slids at the end. (i cut them in the casing with a circular saw) Thus functioning as a wellpoint. This way the casing will always be full of water. Then you can lower your intake pipe or hose into the casing with only a one-way valve at the end.
A word that I don't use very often, you're a stud. You made this look so easy, I think for a lot of people who were thinking about drilling their own well you have given them confidence to do so.
kudos to you from a 35yr environmental driller in texas! we can only pull that off east of houston, here west of san antonio you’re not getting 2” w/out air or mud with a tci or diamond bit. if you’re doing any more there’s a few tools you can make cheap out of scrap that’ll make that one man stuff soooo much easier. SLIPS ! mine’s just 3/8”diamond plate. i put handles on each end & cut slots for 1-1/4, 2” & 4” pvc. life savor when your arms can’t hold 100’ of pvc any more.
So many negative, "problem for every solution" comments. My God. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge with us all! Enriching other's brains for free and they're still mad about it. 🤣
sometime you can add an improvement without knocking a mans method. I've put in several of this kind of well and this is similar to my style but...way better. but in my experience, I do see a small problem. Yet he overcomes it probably not even thinking about it. Still looks like he went 40 feet down and yeah he got water!
So i used the trash pump method and 30 ft of 1" hose to jet. I couldn't believe how fast it goes. After 4 attempted and only hitting rock the 5th try we made it to 30 ft. Thank you for your videos i have been watching them for over a yeat now. An i just really like the dedication you give by doing these videos. Thank you tons
I got two friends of mine that are brothers Pete and Clay Moss. When we were little, they would always fight, and I must say that’s the only time I ever saw clay on top of peat moss.
I'm going to try this. I have installed many 200 amp Electrical boxes on Power Company poles for Mobile Homes, and when it comes time to sink 2 each 8 ft copper ground rods into the ground, I am able to sink each rod just by pouring a little water at a time from a 16 oz bottle of water and pulling up and banging down until it's at the proper depth, My point is this: The water method of sinking pipe is amazing. Thanks for the video. I learned a lot !!!
WOW, I cannot believe it, i paid $1,500 to drill a well about 5 years ago ... i should i have watched your videos... meeeennnn thanks a billion ... great guy!!!
Have you drilled your well yet? Not trying to discourage you but this is being done in Florida sand. I’m not sure if Kenya has the same soil conditions where you are? Hopefully it is something you can do without too much difficulty.
Chuck, I thought you were nuts crazy when I started watching this video, but I watched it end to end and got a huge kick out of your ingenuity. I have a geothermal system installed in my house that uses 5 250 foot deep “wells”. Actually just 4 inch bores that are super deep. They installed PB pipe loops and circulate water down through them to essentially draw heat away from the a/c system. I remember they hit a little water but nothing significant even at 250 feet. I’m in central Texas and we rely on aquifers and surface water for supply at the municipal level. Not sure how deep a well needs to be to provide reliable clean water. All to say I don’t think at reasonable depths I could try your trick here, but I wanted to shout out your ingenuity and positive attitude. Keep those videos rolling! Love them!
I "hydrodrill" grounds for Amateur Radio and some station grounds for AM radio stations that exact same way. I seldom go past 20' for those grounds, but I have had problems with water flowing out of the hole after drilling. I used mortar mix to seal the grounding hole after drilling. However, I never knew this could be used for water well drilling - excellent idea!
We lived in Tulsa, OK when I was a kid, circa 1952. I can remember my dad putting in a shallow well next to our house so he would have unrestricted water for his lawn in the new subdivision. If I recall correctly, he just used a manual auger type drill.
Yeah I have a 110’ well and I have to drop my pump down to near the bottom. My problem is that I run out of water in 20-30 minutes and it takes about 3 hours to recover the approximate 150 gallons. I think it needs to be deeper so that the casing holds more water and of course I would have to extend the pipe and wiring to the pump. I’m on a fixed income so I have never talked to anyone about it and just try to make due. But it makes it tough to have a garden or anything that uses a lot of water. I need to upgrade my power panel and replace my hvac so it is not at the top of my list. It seems like every time I save money towards the things that I need something comes along and I have to start over again. But I’m blessed with the things I have and I can’t complain. I found the video very interesting and I am sure it will help some people! Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!
That’s my issue also. I’ve had 3 professional bore holes pretty much run dry & now I am confident enough to educate myself more than the professionals & dig / drill my own.
Tank is the way. Mabey you could use a compost toilet, catch rain water, not in a barrel, but in a large tank? Fill your tanks in winter, and while you sleep. Check out ferrocement tanks. They can be built large for not cheap, but a lot less than any other style of say, 100k gallon tank. Although 1500 gallon plastic tanks are pretty affordable now, you'd need many, and they are unsightly.
. . . you can take shorter showers, I guess? I was shocked when I learned people take showers longer than 5 minutes. We had a big water shortage in the city I live due to a main line that needed repair so they have to shut it down for weeks and people were freaking out because they had to shorten their showers to 5 minutes.
Chuck always loved your videos. I had a bad problem with yard flooding. Natural way was south for a drain across street. Fought small town village and would not let me go south. Hired an engineer and 1 acre of rainwater would go to corner of lot and with approx. 29,000 gallons per inch of rain per hour on an acre it flood yard. Ended up have to pay for a block and half of 6” pipe and city paid to install to the first drain that had been cleaned and replaced out of town to a creek. Was a win for people south as there was an old drain box that was buried in dirt and water was slowing making it way south. Had major excavation done to yard and two 6” pipe under house on ground level inlet was a rock v drain and went underground to the street drain and had a yard drain hooked up in case. Took 3 years of fighting city, but all ended well and my spare lot is the highest elevation in town and drain along street is low so could have a basement if I wanted to build a home. So many people down stream told me they notice sump pumps had stopped running year round. I was watching all your videos and problem was no matter how I install drains was no place to go. Seems like a distant memory worrying about a down pour and hoping I not have to get out pumps to send it down the street. I was wishing you were here. But all worked out 20k later .
Yup when building my dad's island cabin in the Gulf we not only used it for a well but also for digging holes for the cabin post and the boat/ fishing dock and before anyone asks yes you can have a fresh water well on an island surround with saltwater just in case if some of y'all didn't know that. Thank you for a great video
@@enjoinick yes we ran our intake with saltwater and how deep that just depends on fresh water table and I would suggest sending water samples to someone who can test it we sent ours to Texas a&m so I'm guessing you know how that works fresh water is lighter than salt so when it rains it will go down until hits the saltwater and it floats on top we don't just rely on that alone we also have rain catchment system
@@enjoinick oh sorry we made a few different holes and took several samples and the holes ranged from 10 to 20 feet and there should be info out there for your area I would check agriculture development and with local colleges they have a ton of information hope this helps and we installed 2 pre filters then reverse osmosis
@@YeshuaT-bm6ss ok thank you 😊 we have rain collection as well but winter months with little rain it can get low so a well would be nice supplement. We mainly just use that water for dishes and showers.
@@enjoinick we use ours for the same and a big ice maker but the main reason why we need more is because our cabin is used by 3 families and it sucks to get there and no water. So another project we are working on is being able to turn on the electricity and AC by remote so it's nice and cold and the ice machine starts making ice. Good luck hope it works out
Great demonstration and explanation of the process 👍 I learnt as a child the power of water to "dig" sand/soil when I used our garden hose to bore holes in a pile of brickies sand on the construction site next door. It went in so easy. I copped heaps from the builder AND my parents but it is a lesson I have never forgotten.
I did this when I lived in FL to cut down on my water bill. I jet-drilled a 30 ft well as a means to ensure there was water for my lawn even in the worst drought. Most neighbors wells were at 19 ft and one year they struggled to keep their wells going. You have to have sandy soil for this process to work.
Chuck, you're an inspiration. Always cheerful and you accept unplanned "problems" without a hitch. I have a thought that might alleviate the problem of the ground closing back in before you can insert the 1" suction pipe (after the mud pump shaft is removed). How about using a 4" pipe vs. a 3" for the initial 10" to give more space within that pipe? Then, feed BOTH the mud pump pipe/shaft AND the 1" well point suction pipe down together. The mud pump drilling shaft should clear enough space for both pipes at the same time and then we you hit your desired depth you can just remove the mud pump pipe. The 1" well point shaft would already be in place and you wouldn't run into the problem of the cavity closing in too quickly. It might take another person to help manage both pipes but could be worth the effort.
Depending on your elevation a pump can only suck water from the 16 to 22 foot range. Deeper water requires a pump to push the water up and that requires a larger diameter well to accommodate the pump and casing. Hitting a rock would take all the fun out of drilling this way. Also, not sealing the hole around the outside of the well properly is a great way for surface water to contaminate your aquifer.
at the top of the hole you are supposed to dig a trench a few (3+) metres long to take away the silt that is pumping up to the surface. Dig a small catchment area at the end of the trench to allow the solids to be scooped out. This stops is going back down the shaft and contaminating the aquifer.
What do you mean about properly? I saw in another video where they made up concrete and put around the well pipe. Is that what you mean by “properly?” The other question is you saying 16-22’ can suck the water up, but if deeper can’t? I want a shallow well for lawn only. My 2 neighbors did it themselves. I wanted to see if I could attempt myself why asking questions.
I am putting together a well. Being an old oil well driller I did things a bit different. FYI - I am in SW Florida 1,000 feet from a canal that connects to the intracoastal/Gulf of Mexico about a mile away. My house elevation is 9 feet above sea level. The well location is maybe 3-5 feet lower in elevation. I set the location by dowsing with 18 in copper grounding wire rods with 5 in handles of the 18 in. I hit water sand at 7 feet, remaining in it down to 25 feet and beyond. It was like he says a very very definite change in color from dark brown to brilliant white with the drill pipe dropping through like melted butter. It got a bit harder deeper around 20 feet as we added some tiny gravel/shells to to mix. So I set a 7.5 foot (6 inches into the water sand) of 6 inch pvc pipe. I had dug 4 feet of 6 in hole using a de--bottomed metal coffee container as a guide set in the surface. After setting the 6 in it was so easy I was afraid of losing the pipe in the well I poured a pebble concrete mixture around it at around 2-4 feet on the outside of it. I then found a 6 in to 4 in connector I used to make a head for placing 4 inch. I managed to get the 4 in down 14 feet. I then went to 25 feet (legal limit here for unpermitted wells) with the 1 1/4 in through 2 in. I have 8 feet of 2 inch well point with check valve immediately above it. In another video I saw the check valve at the top of the producing pipe which I think I like better. AS the 2 inch full of water is hard to handle. I use a shop vac to blow the water out. As I have been drilling with the 1 1/4 in pvc with a 3/4 in 4 ft pipe with quick connect brass fitting on the end down to 1/2 inch the 2 in is not going in deep enough. I have been doing all this with regular household faucet at the end of 100 ft hose so I ran out of water pressure power. Time to get the pump. I have gone to 50 feet with the 1 1/4 inch pvc pipe and 100 foot garden hose with 4 ft 3/4 in steel and copper quick fitting with the 2 in pump before in a different county. Much the same type of digging. But at that time I did NOT dowse it, or we would have had a different story from that apparently dry well 2500 feet from the river. It was said the water table was at 80 feet there near the Peace river but I did not get that far. Excellent work on this video and well. DS
This just remined me about what you are doing when I was 18 and now I am 66, we used this method, it was a scaffold pole with a nylon head with slots in it this was attach to a hose and a high pressure pump these poles where sent into the ground and around the site to be excavated, then the pump was put in reverse to suck the water around the site to dry the ground so we could continue excavating down.
I drilled my 25 foot well with a regular city water hose plumbed to the T handle, still working after 8 years. Also, started at ground level, that hand dug starter hole just makes a bigger mess and more work.
seems like a good design but also seems like a lot of trips to the store and back. I do appreciate the video as this is something I may invest in simply to help other people find water after I'm done with mine.
This is really 👍👍👍👍 Whatever you have showed is giving the great idea to open viewer mind. Even something could be improve, that’s was just a matter of whoever can do whatever they think better or sustain longer. But the main point, you are among hundreds of peoples that have applied various methods. Congrats 🤲🤲🤲👍👍👍
@@VioletUpton Well, 30' IS relatively shallow for a well. 30' CAN be dug without a water jet or special equipment. Infact, in a lot of FL you can "drive" a well
The only thing better than watching the finished product, was your level of energy, optimism, clarity, and drive … kudos buddy. Wonder if I could pull that off at my Colorado property ? Lmao ..
@@ricksmith1574 , actually.. property is between 2 creeks and all the wells around here starts at 20ft to about 50ft… so good candidate for this .. but you’re right .. having to contend with a layer of rocks and boulders at some point during the dig..
My dad did this when I was a kid but he had a hard time with the limestone seems around 20ft and I remember him shooting his rifle in the ground to break it up.
Good job mate👍! Obviously the sandier the soil the easier. In Australia’s outback could be like going thru concrete! But beats paying someone 5000 bucks! Or more..
At the very last connection between the 1” suction pipe and the pump, you ought to introduce a Union coupling instead of using glue to join the PVC coupling. This way, should you need to replace the pump in the future, you could just easily unscrew the Union coupling without the need to cut the 1” suction pipe. Get what I mean?
Has anyone tried this to drill a groundsource heatpump well? BTW Cheers to all you who put out these awesome DIY videos and RUclips as well!! A great service to humanity!
You need about 200' deep to do that. It's easier to use the proper tools, cause you are going to hit rock, unless you are talking about and open loop system, then it might work, but the debris will be rough on geo pumps. All though you could dig horizontal loops.
I watched a utube video on diging down 6 or 7 feet and laying in non perforated weeping tile pipe running air through it to get 50 degree air for heating a greenhouse and it reminded me of years ago my father had installed a tank at a service station and restaurant the area between the tank and the building was 250 feet paved parking area and they didn't want it dug up with a trench so dad popped a hole in the basement wall and using a 5 inch pole hole augur drilled a hole through to run the pipe through since then I've used a vacuum cleaner to do drill post holes I'm thinking of trying a combination of the these 3 methods and another idea I used years ago for cleaning water tanks with a lot of settlement in them I put a sump pump in the vacuum cleaner bucket so I could vacuum up the water and sentiment the sentiment sank to the bottom of the vacuum canister and water was pumped out
Thank you so much for this - you have the very best channel for all things concerning drainage/well driling, etc. Once again, thanks for your knowledge as it is so very valuable at this time.
This is a great video. I wish I had seen it two years ago when I drove my well down by hand. Took me a good two days and my arms were so sore I could hardly move them after that.
@@rickconnock7578 I went 20' plus the 5' point. I wanted to go 25' but I was all used up. Sometimes around here you can hit water with post hole diggers.
Totally awesome. The only improvement I would add is to put a tube of screen mash over the well head length over them cutout slots just for extra filtering of the water and possibly clogging them. I am not sure if most above ground pumps can pump the water beyond 20 feet or so. I am not sure. I suppose for drinking water one should really seal the outside area of the well to keep contaminated water from draining down below. For irrigation all is good.
This was a great and very helpful information, my wife and I are going to do this for water for our pond which always run dry but this will be the key to solve the problem. I'll keep you updated!! Thanks Patrick
Wait one minute! The day light dosnt change thru this whole demo. This happened in on e aftenoon? I've been spending months learning and prepping for a huge project. One Day?! I appreciate all your practicalities, less your dirty prime/gluing lol. The ending is especially rewarding, thanks you.
Fastest and the easiest way i know is? To have a water well drilled for you! We went down to 800' to hit into a Aqua Duck. It soft, Excellent, well water, and its very very cold. The best water i have ever drank, around the world. YUM so refreshing
@@luisarashirovideo It took a few years to fine some one who would do it, at the price we could afford. 💲💲It was very expensive back when we had it done, Years back. at 10k! but I'll tell yea. 👉👉 its been, well worth every cent of it 💦💦
Great video, I can see that you are in Florida by the foliage around you. I live just north of Jacksonville and I am going to give your method a try. We already have well water here. Before it is processed it smells of sulphur. Still, without processing it is fine for my pigs and chickens.I would like a hand pumped well so it will work in an emergency such as when the power goes out in a hurricane.
Great video. The issue we have in northern Florida is that shallow wells are very high in iron. Unless the irrigation is away from houses or driveways, expect rust staining on everything. Unfortunately, you need to drill at least 80-100 feet to avoid this.
@@73gmiller rain water is ok however it has its own issues. Good filtration for shallow wells is a good option however its more maintenance. Under NO circumstances should you EVER drink from shallow water wells without proper treatment. This is still a good option for gardens and general water uses. And with proper filtration just fine for washing clothes and flushing toilets. If I had it tested for E.coli and had some good filtration I may shower and wash dishes but still never drink unless treated and filtered.
Rust is iron oxide or rust bacteria. You need to oxidize it. Exposure to oxygen is one way. What you can do is build an air driven air lift pump. Air lifts the water up to a vented storage tank which vents off the sulfur smell out of the water. Then you can pump it through a filter and treat with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) which when it oxidizes it turns to H2O (water). Then filter some more and its good to drink.
@sgtbrown4273 newsflash: as a child ,we drank from a shallow well hand crank cistern,most Def a shallow well,about 25 ft or less. No problems. Was very refreshing to get a cool drink from. You know,wells have been dug by settlers for hundreds of years, it won't kill you. Now,if you live in New Jersey or Detroit,land of toxic waste pollution,OBVIOUSLY you won't drink that. I'm in a lake region of Florida,its truly a gift from God,the water under the land here.
I do it very similar. I use a self jetting point and add to it on the way down. Thing is, those points are expensive. They are made for dewatering construction sites and the sieve size is a bit bigger than I would like if I was to drink the water. Filtered before the pump is how to get around that. Should use a filter anyways. Depending on your ground it is possible to overdrive your well and miss the water. Sometimes the clay is the end of drilling. Great video.
He skipped all of the lower casing info... He didn't do it for this demo. so that well will clog and fail in a year or less. There are better videos about the casing... It need sto go down as far as the water pickup plus a bit and needs some filtration media and then clay around the casing.
You made it look so easy! Ingenuity at work. I would really love to know if this method can be applied in areas where the water table is hundreds of meters deep and what variations will be required to pump up the water. Anyone with any ideas, please share.
Great job, I would have added a connection where the pump innects to the one in the ground and also rant a plumb drop on a string to check the depth of water. A great job
You have to remember it is all about your soil type and composition. On the east coast I have washed down many shallow wells. In west Texas you need a drill bit to get through the sand shale. I have used a pvc threaded coupling to slip coupling on the threaded end I screwed in a steel nipple with teeth ground in the nipple to make a drill. You look like you are in Florida.
Hard clay on top of rock here. Most wells are at about 350'; some go down 700'. You need submersible deep well pumps for these--and a guy with a diesel rig with a hard-rock drill--and a bushel of money.
That's a ridiculous statement because as you have to leave the top open to insert the 1" pipe the overflow would still jet upwards. To suggest that the right angle opening would work as a pressure reliever is to say that the overflow has a "mind of its own" and can purposely choose to exit at the right angle and oppose the laws of physics to find the easier way out...which happens to be the upward direction.
Always check local law's and make sure you own the water rights to the property and they don't have any codes saying you can't have a well . I love the hydro well drill thank you for your time and hard work with the video
@@andreycham4797 the state I live in you need a permit to drill any type of well and on top of the State permit you also need a county permit so here you need over $750 of permits for a water well that only is allowed so much water a year it sucks but it is the $$$ that drives most law's in America then they blame global warming for it
@@Victor.McCann this is my point , if I get caught drilling a well I have to pay $250 penalty in my state. Why would I want to lose $750 on permits plus thousands on contractors , just to avoid theoretical penalty? The only a reason you were saying this that you are contractor looking for fools to give you money
@@andreycham4797 here it is more of a fine it costs $2500 and possibly a jail sentence of a 1 + Year's so I will just keep hauling water at $40 per 1000 gallons
That's awesome. Wish I could do it here in Idaho, probably more rocks than you have. I've been looking for a small well drilling rig to buy, I'd spend 5k on one. I'm on City water for Irrigation, I grew up on farms and used to have a water well and water rights to a creek so it burns me to use drinking water on the lawn. Funny thing is we pay for irrigation, but they didn't run the ditched to us, the City says it was the developers responsibility and to go after them (1970). We can opt out of the service but if they ever run the ditch we wouldn't be allowed to tap off it! City living sucks. ( I do have Chickens). According to the City's well logs in the area water table is about 40 feet, so I need a 100' well.
So is the point of the well point at about 28 feet below ground level? Did you decide on that depth based on experience and where others are finding water in your neighborhood, or did you do some kind of testing? Thanks much for your great vids!
Hey I need to drill a 20 ft bore hole and empty out water for construction, I am going to be able to use this method to empty out the water, thank you so much!
Other than going through hard-pan I have found that using just a regular trash pump (mud pump) to be preferrable over pressure-washer pump for jetting my own shallow well.
You are very fortunate to have soft soil that deep. My block has layers of sandstone varying from the surface to way past 100 feet deep.no way would you be able to rely on water pressure and PVC pipe for a drilling rod
I would love to have this as back up. Garden or if water became unavailable. Is it allowed in a city on your own property. I could make it look like any other no freeze pump I have. I’m in Texas so would need to cheek my water table depth. But I know it’s not super deep. Can I use a no freeze hand pump once it’s cleared and set? I’d like this to not be something the public could hear. You know if SHTF!
Hi Beverly, You’re right! It’s a great irrigation for gardens, lawns, and sprinkler systems! Down here most all homes have shallow wells. Thanks for your comment!
A lot of areas have shallow water about twenty feet down it shouldn't be drank without a reverse osmosis filter or testing because of how many areas have contamination at this level! Most states have well reports that say at what levels they hit water at !
Great vid. Double well spikes are pointless though and if part of that is higher than water table you’ll be sucking air and it won’t prime. Water is going to flow in to height of the water table regardless. This is the same way I built my well and then I pup gravel in the bottom as extra filtering prior to my well spike and my well spike didn’t go below the casing pipe.
The water table in Florida is high so drilling a well is not too hard. I would like to see how to drill down 200 to 300' to reach water, I would love to have well water in case bad times arrive in the future.
I am also wondering if a much deeper well can be dug this way. In soft silty soil and clay like we have, I feel like it should be possible. However there are some considerations - for that kind of depth you need at least 4" casing because you need to be able to put a 4" well pump down inside. Also you have to sink a filter section down as your first piece if you want decent flow, I don't know if it's great for the filter section to be exposed to all that sludge as you bore, you'd have to be very diligent about developing the well after. Also you need a decent annulus around the whole casing so you can drop a gravel pack down there after, especially if you stopped in clay. I don't know if a method like this will produce such a wide hole (up to 8"). Maybe it's just a case of time and effort. I'm game to try, it would save me 10 grand easily (which I don't have to spend on a well).
Dude hats off to you for doing this task alone + recording video + sharing knowledge.
HERE, HERE !! He did a fine job and I sure appreciate the information.
I have no desire to drill a well, but this video seemed so preposterous I had to click. And I was pleasantly surprised at how well it all came together.
how well it came together bah dum dum tish!
As a 6th generation water well driller, i commend you brother, great job. Id like to add that this application can be done in sand, for a regular well here in florida you would want to seat the casing into the limerock, but a cheaper and easy way to just get water you did an absolute great job for a sand point well. Cheers
Question: In the video here, it looks like the wellpoint is below the casing. Someone told me that the casing should extend some feet below the bottom of the wellpoint to keep the well from caving in. Is this a requirement?
I am in Florida where soil is really sandy, and just want to put down a shallow well for pitcher pump in case of emergency. My neighbor has a pond, and during height of drought period, the water was about 10 feet below ground level. Now that we are getting a good bit of rain, the water is only around three feet below ground.
I figured I would shoot for minimum of 20 feet with my 1 1/4 4' wellpoint. I sunk a 2'' pipe down around 10 - 12 feet so far. If I drop string in pipe, water is about 3 -4 feet level. I can insert about 20' of 1in. into 2'' pipe before it bottoms out.
Given that this is just for low volume pitcher pump application, can you tell me if I need to get 2'' pipe below the wellpoint depth?
@@muckeyduck3472 Not an expert but I did dug a few wells similar like this one here in Holland. And you are right, normaly the casing should extend a few feet below the bottom of your intake pipe or hose. And thats the thing here: he uses the intake pipe as a wellpoint and jammed this further/deeper in the ground then the casing. (the wellpoint being the 8 feet tipped end with all the slids for waterintake) What I did is use a casing that has these slids at the end. (i cut them in the casing with a circular saw) Thus functioning as a wellpoint. This way the casing will always be full of water. Then you can lower your intake pipe or hose into the casing with only a one-way valve at the end.
@@florisoldemaat9385 hoe diep ben je gegaan? En waar woon je?
@@neila484 Ongeveer 8 tot 10 meter. Hier in Overijssel (Raalte) is een meter of 8 voldoende voor een normale hydrofoorpomp.
So cool. This is what the internet is for. Exchange of ideas.
@@KASUN_M just do it
A word that I don't use very often, you're a stud. You made this look so easy, I think for a lot of people who were thinking about drilling their own well you have given them confidence to do so.
kudos to you from a 35yr environmental driller in texas!
we can only pull that off
east of houston, here west of san antonio you’re not getting 2” w/out air or mud with a tci
or diamond bit.
if you’re doing any more there’s a few tools you can make cheap out of scrap that’ll make that one man stuff soooo much easier.
SLIPS ! mine’s just 3/8”diamond plate.
i put handles on each end & cut slots for
1-1/4, 2” & 4”
pvc. life savor when your arms can’t hold 100’ of pvc any more.
Do you have a picture of your “anti-slip” jig?
So many negative, "problem for every solution" comments. My God. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge with us all! Enriching other's brains for free and they're still mad about it. 🤣
sometime you can add an improvement without knocking a mans method. I've put in several of this kind of well and this is similar to my style but...way better. but in my experience, I do see a small problem. Yet he overcomes it probably not even thinking about it. Still looks like he went 40 feet down and yeah he got water!
@GCWERK agreed. Doyou have a link
So i used the trash pump method and 30 ft of 1" hose to jet. I couldn't believe how fast it goes. After 4 attempted and only hitting rock the 5th try we made it to 30 ft. Thank you for your videos i have been watching them for over a yeat now. An i just really like the dedication you give by doing these videos. Thank you tons
I got two friends of mine that are brothers Pete and Clay Moss. When we were little, they would always fight, and I must say that’s the only time I ever saw clay on top of peat moss.
That's really funny. Thanks for sharing a bit of humor.
I'm going to try this. I have installed many 200 amp Electrical boxes on Power Company poles for Mobile Homes, and when it comes time to sink 2 each 8 ft copper ground rods into the ground, I am able to sink each rod just by pouring a little water at a time from a 16 oz bottle of water and pulling up and banging down until it's at the proper depth, My point is this: The water method of sinking pipe is amazing. Thanks for the video. I learned a lot !!!
WOW, I cannot believe it, i paid $1,500 to drill a well about 5 years ago ... i should i have watched your videos... meeeennnn thanks a billion ... great guy!!!
That's cheap
that's cheap
That's cheap, if that's all it cost me I would hire the professionals to do it!
@@bmorg7244 right, we paid $8500 for ours about 10 years ago
depends on the area. Hard to push pvc thru rock.
In Kenya bore hole drilling costs over 3million shillings 😇 34 years pension money 🫵this can cost me 10k,you are God sent man 🇰🇪
We can do it here with that little.
Have you drilled your well yet?
Not trying to discourage you but this is being done in Florida sand. I’m not sure if Kenya has the same soil conditions where you are? Hopefully it is something you can do without too much difficulty.
HalleluYAH!!! Praise YAHUAH !!
Wee mzee 😂😂😂😂
@@willyweyru9460 poo on you!!🤣🤣🤣
Chuck, I thought you were nuts crazy when I started watching this video, but I watched it end to end and got a huge kick out of your ingenuity. I have a geothermal system installed in my house that uses 5 250 foot deep “wells”. Actually just 4 inch bores that are super deep. They installed PB pipe loops and circulate water down through them to essentially draw heat away from the a/c system. I remember they hit a little water but nothing significant even at 250 feet. I’m in central Texas and we rely on aquifers and surface water for supply at the municipal level. Not sure how deep a well needs to be to provide reliable clean water.
All to say I don’t think at reasonable depths I could try your trick here, but I wanted to shout out your ingenuity and positive attitude.
Keep those videos rolling! Love them!
I "hydrodrill" grounds for Amateur Radio and some station grounds for AM radio stations that exact same way. I seldom go past 20' for those grounds, but I have had problems with water flowing out of the hole after drilling. I used mortar mix to seal the grounding hole after drilling. However, I never knew this could be used for water well drilling - excellent idea!
We lived in Tulsa, OK when I was a kid, circa 1952. I can remember my dad putting in a shallow well next to our house so he would have unrestricted water for his lawn in the new subdivision. If I recall correctly, he just used a manual auger type drill.
I’m from Jamaica and plan to do some Farming with a difference ,
I will definitely use this,
Thanks for the information,
Very informative.
Yeah I have a 110’ well and I have to drop my pump down to near the bottom. My problem is that I run out of water in 20-30 minutes and it takes about 3 hours to recover the approximate 150 gallons. I think it needs to be deeper so that the casing holds more water and of course I would have to extend the pipe and wiring to the pump. I’m on a fixed income so I have never talked to anyone about it and just try to make due. But it makes it tough to have a garden or anything that uses a lot of water. I need to upgrade my power panel and replace my hvac so it is not at the top of my list. It seems like every time I save money towards the things that I need something comes along and I have to start over again. But I’m blessed with the things I have and I can’t complain. I found the video very interesting and I am sure it will help some people! Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge!
That’s my issue also. I’ve had 3 professional bore holes pretty much run dry & now I am confident enough to educate myself more than the professionals & dig / drill my own.
Get a large holding tank maybe. Fill all day and night then it's ready to use.
Tank is the way. Mabey you could use a compost toilet, catch rain water, not in a barrel, but in a large tank? Fill your tanks in winter, and while you sleep. Check out ferrocement tanks. They can be built large for not cheap, but a lot less than any other style of say, 100k gallon tank. Although 1500 gallon plastic tanks are pretty affordable now, you'd need many, and they are unsightly.
. . . you can take shorter showers, I guess? I was shocked when I learned people take showers longer than 5 minutes. We had a big water shortage in the city I live due to a main line that needed repair so they have to shut it down for weeks and people were freaking out because they had to shorten their showers to 5 minutes.
@@MrMackanno my problem is watering my garden. I take baths so I don’t have a problem there.
Chuck always loved your videos. I had a bad problem with yard flooding. Natural way was south for a drain across street. Fought small town village and would not let me go south. Hired an engineer and 1 acre of rainwater would go to corner of lot and with approx. 29,000 gallons per inch of rain per hour on an acre it flood yard. Ended up have to pay for a block and half of 6” pipe and city paid to install to the first drain that had been cleaned and replaced out of town to a creek. Was a win for people south as there was an old drain box that was buried in dirt and water was slowing making it way south.
Had major excavation done to yard and two 6” pipe under house on ground level inlet was a rock v drain and went underground to the street drain and had a yard drain hooked up in case. Took 3 years of fighting city, but all ended well and my spare lot is the highest elevation in town and drain along street is low so could have a basement if I wanted to build a home. So many people down stream told me they notice sump pumps had stopped running year round.
I was watching all your videos and problem was no matter how I install drains was no place to go. Seems like a distant memory worrying about a down pour and hoping I not have to get out pumps to send it down the street. I was wishing you were here. But all worked out 20k later .
Yup when building my dad's island cabin in the Gulf we not only used it for a well but also for digging holes for the cabin post and the boat/ fishing dock and before anyone asks yes you can have a fresh water well on an island surround with saltwater just in case if some of y'all didn't know that. Thank you for a great video
Hi we have an island on the Florida gulf coast as well. How deep did you have to go with your well? Did you use saltwater through your mud pump?
@@enjoinick yes we ran our intake with saltwater and how deep that just depends on fresh water table and I would suggest sending water samples to someone who can test it we sent ours to Texas a&m so I'm guessing you know how that works fresh water is lighter than salt so when it rains it will go down until hits the saltwater and it floats on top we don't just rely on that alone we also have rain catchment system
@@enjoinick oh sorry we made a few different holes and took several samples and the holes ranged from 10 to 20 feet and there should be info out there for your area I would check agriculture development and with local colleges they have a ton of information hope this helps and we installed 2 pre filters then reverse osmosis
@@YeshuaT-bm6ss ok thank you 😊 we have rain collection as well but winter months with little rain it can get low so a well would be nice supplement. We mainly just use that water for dishes and showers.
@@enjoinick we use ours for the same and a big ice maker but the main reason why we need more is because our cabin is used by 3 families and it sucks to get there and no water. So another project we are working on is being able to turn on the electricity and AC by remote so it's nice and cold and the ice machine starts making ice. Good luck hope it works out
Very, very rewarding to watch and learn. Blessings from San Diego, California. ❤
@@ela111961 thank you
Great demonstration and explanation of the process 👍
I learnt as a child the power of water to "dig" sand/soil when I used our garden hose to bore holes in a pile of brickies sand on the construction site next door. It went in so easy. I copped heaps from the builder AND my parents but it is a lesson I have never forgotten.
What's your job now? Demolition?
0:30 hell
I dig post holes and trenches with hydro power. Been doing it for many years. Never could figure out why nobody else was doing it.
Because they have hydraulic post hole diggers that don't make small lakes
I dig my post holes with c4 now you can chuckle 😂
What about rocks
@@MasonicJewTubeTrapyeah, anyone, any thoughts?
Its amazing that there is water down there, and amazing that you can access it so easily.
Where I live in south East Louisiana anywhere you dig 50 feet down is good water
I have absolutely no need to dig a well, but I just loved going along with you on that journey.
Excellent... Excellent.. Excellent. The only word I can say.
U do it by yourself, alone.
Wish I had known about that before I paid top dollar to have a shallow well installed on my property. Hello from Melbourne FL!
Hello from Sallisaw, OK formerly Melbourne FL!
You wouldn't be able to do this in Melbourne Florida, 6th generation water well driller in Ocala Florida here
@@352ish Why not? They even sell the equipment to do this at the local Home Depot.
@@MasterKenfucius limerock in Florida
@@352ish The guy who did my shallow well went to 65 feet and never hit any lime rock.
Excellent job step by step walk through 👍👍👍👍👍
I did this when I lived in FL to cut down on my water bill. I jet-drilled a 30 ft well as a means to ensure there was water for my lawn even in the worst drought. Most neighbors wells were at 19 ft and one year they struggled to keep their wells going. You have to have sandy soil for this process to work.
That's not very deep
The history of moving water is still interesting to me up until modern times. If only the ancients had the ability to do this so esay.
😂🤣😂 had a good chuckle when you shot the water over the fence. 🤣😄🤣
Chuck, you're an inspiration. Always cheerful and you accept unplanned "problems" without a hitch. I have a thought that might alleviate the problem of the ground closing back in before you can insert the 1" suction pipe (after the mud pump shaft is removed). How about using a 4" pipe vs. a 3" for the initial 10" to give more space within that pipe? Then, feed BOTH the mud pump pipe/shaft AND the 1" well point suction pipe down together. The mud pump drilling shaft should clear enough space for both pipes at the same time and then we you hit your desired depth you can just remove the mud pump pipe. The 1" well point shaft would already be in place and you wouldn't run into the problem of the cavity closing in too quickly. It might take another person to help manage both pipes but could be worth the effort.
Yes! Great ideas
Water
But the direction values one way
Couldn't one just hook the mud pump to the pipe that has the well point on it? 🤔
Depending on your elevation a pump can only suck water from the 16 to 22 foot range. Deeper water requires a pump to push the water up and that requires a larger diameter well to accommodate the pump and casing. Hitting a rock would take all the fun out of drilling this way. Also, not sealing the hole around the outside of the well properly is a great way for surface water to contaminate your aquifer.
Neighbors aren't going to be very happy with you if you contaminate their well by not sealing it properly.
at the top of the hole you are supposed to dig a trench a few (3+) metres long to take away the silt that is pumping up to the surface. Dig a small catchment area at the end of the trench to allow the solids to be scooped out. This stops is going back down the shaft and contaminating the aquifer.
Thx very Helpful info.
What do you mean about properly? I saw in another video where they made up concrete and put around the well pipe. Is that what you mean by “properly?”
The other question is you saying 16-22’ can suck the water up, but if deeper can’t?
I want a shallow well for lawn only. My 2 neighbors did it themselves. I wanted to see if I could attempt myself why asking questions.
@@greenspiraldragon
How do you seal properly?
I am putting together a well. Being an old oil well driller I did things a bit different. FYI - I am in SW Florida 1,000 feet from a canal that connects to the intracoastal/Gulf of Mexico about a mile away. My house elevation is 9 feet above sea level. The well location is maybe 3-5 feet lower in elevation. I set the location by dowsing with 18 in copper grounding wire rods with 5 in handles of the 18 in. I hit water sand at 7 feet, remaining in it down to 25 feet and beyond. It was like he says a very very definite change in color from dark brown to brilliant white with the drill pipe dropping through like melted butter. It got a bit harder deeper around 20 feet as we added some tiny gravel/shells to to mix. So I set a 7.5 foot (6 inches into the water sand) of 6 inch pvc pipe. I had dug 4 feet of 6 in hole using a de--bottomed metal coffee container as a guide set in the surface. After setting the 6 in it was so easy I was afraid of losing the pipe in the well I poured a pebble concrete mixture around it at around 2-4 feet on the outside of it. I then found a 6 in to 4 in connector I used to make a head for placing 4 inch. I managed to get the 4 in down 14 feet. I then went to 25 feet (legal limit here for unpermitted wells) with the 1 1/4 in through 2 in. I have 8 feet of 2 inch well point with check valve immediately above it. In another video I saw the check valve at the top of the producing pipe which I think I like better. AS the 2 inch full of water is hard to handle. I use a shop vac to blow the water out. As I have been drilling with the 1 1/4 in pvc with a 3/4 in 4 ft pipe with quick connect brass fitting on the end down to 1/2 inch the 2 in is not going in deep enough. I have been doing all this with regular household faucet at the end of 100 ft hose so I ran out of water pressure power. Time to get the pump.
I have gone to 50 feet with the 1 1/4 inch pvc pipe and 100 foot garden hose with 4 ft 3/4 in steel and copper quick fitting with the 2 in pump before in a different county. Much the same type of digging. But at that time I did NOT dowse it, or we would have had a different story from that apparently dry well 2500 feet from the river. It was said the water table was at 80 feet there near the Peace river but I did not get that far.
Excellent work on this video and well. DS
Awesome craftsmanship !!!
Thanks for sharing your wisdom and knowledge !!!
This just remined me about what you are doing when I was 18 and now I am 66, we used this method, it was a scaffold pole with a nylon head with slots in it this was attach to a hose and a high pressure pump these poles where sent into the ground and around the site to be excavated, then the pump was put in reverse to suck the water around the site to dry the ground so we could continue excavating down.
I drilled my 25 foot well with a regular city water hose plumbed to the T handle, still working after 8 years. Also, started at ground level, that hand dug starter hole just makes a bigger mess and more work.
seems like a good design but also seems like a lot of trips to the store and back. I do appreciate the video as this is something I may invest in simply to help other people find water after I'm done with mine.
This is the best video on bore water pumping.
This is really 👍👍👍👍
Whatever you have showed is giving the great idea to open viewer mind. Even something could be improve, that’s was just a matter of whoever can do whatever they think better or sustain longer. But the main point, you are among hundreds of peoples that have applied various methods. Congrats 🤲🤲🤲👍👍👍
Nice video Chuck. Wow, this would save alot of money for irrigation here in Florida.
I don't know where you live in Florida but where I used to live you could just poke a stick in the ground and get water for irrigation lol
@@1100wing 😂😂🤣🤣 You're joking right?? I live within 5 miles of the beach, yet I need to drill 30 feet for a well.
@@VioletUpton Well, 30' IS relatively shallow for a well.
30' CAN be dug without a water jet or special equipment. Infact, in a lot of FL you can "drive" a well
The only thing better than watching the finished product, was your level of energy, optimism, clarity, and drive … kudos buddy.
Wonder if I could pull that off at my Colorado property ? Lmao ..
Wow Colorado? Bet that would have to be real deep. What about the rocks. Good luck
@@ricksmith1574 , actually.. property is between 2 creeks and all the wells around here starts at 20ft to about 50ft… so good candidate for this .. but you’re right .. having to contend with a layer of rocks and boulders at some point during the dig..
@@GreatExodus Good luck. Im sure the water would be good out there.
My dad did this when I was a kid but he had a hard time with the limestone seems around 20ft and I remember him shooting his rifle in the ground to break it up.
😂
seems dangerous
😂 sounds like something my dad would do when he's drunk
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
That’s fucking awesome! I’m gonna remember that trick! Lmao
Fantastic work, fantastic energy.
Good job mate👍! Obviously the sandier the soil the easier. In Australia’s outback could be like going thru concrete! But beats paying someone 5000 bucks! Or more..
At the very last connection between the 1” suction pipe and the pump, you ought to introduce a Union coupling instead of using glue to join the PVC coupling. This way, should you need to replace the pump in the future, you could just easily unscrew the Union coupling without the need to cut the 1” suction pipe. Get what I mean?
My thoughts exactly
True. Or cut it if and when you need to. Lol. (He's that kinda guy).
Good job 👍
No worry there. Unlikely be able to pull it back out after wall caves in and settles. Should have cased the entire damned length
@@pauld5641❤❤❤❤😊😊😊 15:19 ❤❤ 15:21 ❤❤ 17:46 17:47 17:48 17:49 ❤❤❤❤ 17:56 ❤
Excellent job sir, you are a great teacher.
Man, those have got to be the gnarliest sounding mosquitos I've ever heard!
Has anyone tried this to drill a groundsource heatpump well? BTW Cheers to all you who put out these awesome DIY videos and RUclips as well!! A great service to humanity!
You need about 200' deep to do that. It's easier to use the proper tools, cause you are going to hit rock, unless you are talking about and open loop system, then it might work, but the debris will be rough on geo pumps. All though you could dig horizontal loops.
@@jcarney1987 thanks !
I watched a utube video on diging down 6 or 7 feet and laying in non perforated weeping tile pipe running air through it to get 50 degree air for heating a greenhouse and it reminded me of years ago my father had installed a tank at a service station and restaurant the area between the tank and the building was 250 feet paved parking area and they didn't want it dug up with a trench so dad popped a hole in the basement wall and using a 5 inch pole hole augur drilled a hole through to run the pipe through since then I've used a vacuum cleaner to do drill post holes I'm thinking of trying a combination of the these 3 methods and another idea I used years ago for cleaning water tanks with a lot of settlement in them I put a sump pump in the vacuum cleaner bucket so I could vacuum up the water and sentiment the sentiment sank to the bottom of the vacuum canister and water was pumped out
Thank you so much for this - you have the very best channel for all things concerning drainage/well driling, etc. Once again, thanks for your knowledge as it is so very valuable at this time.
Thank you so much
I hope it helped 👍
This is a great video. I wish I had seen it two years ago when I drove my well down by hand. Took me a good two days and my arms were so sore I could hardly move them after that.
Hey Steve,
How deep did you have to go ?
@@rickconnock7578 I went 20' plus the 5' point. I wanted to go 25' but I was all used up. Sometimes around here you can hit water with post hole diggers.
@@oldmgbs2 Q
@@oldmgbs2 what size pipe were you driving?
@@patrickday4206 1 1/4"
Totally awesome.
The only improvement I would add is to put a tube of screen mash over the well head length over them cutout slots just for extra filtering of the water and possibly clogging them.
I am not sure if most above ground pumps can pump the water beyond 20 feet or so. I am not sure.
I suppose for drinking water one should really seal the outside area of the well to keep contaminated water from draining down below. For irrigation all is good.
Legend mate, That's a great video and the fact that you did all this by yourself is crazy good. I'm gonna try this. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks
It’s a great DIY
Did that here in Florida for a yard well. Works good.
Thank you so much for that great ideas of yours..,we will try it…
Came across this video, my mistake and watched the whole thing she now I know how to build a well 😊lol
This was a great and very helpful information, my wife and I are going to do this for water for our pond which always run dry but this will be the key to solve the problem. I'll keep you updated!! Thanks Patrick
Holy moly what a great way to do this!! thanks!
Wait one minute! The day light dosnt change thru this whole demo. This happened in on e aftenoon? I've been spending months learning and prepping for a huge project. One Day?! I appreciate all your practicalities, less your dirty prime/gluing lol. The ending is especially rewarding, thanks you.
I love it when you say would be nice an extra hand
Fastest and the easiest way i know is? To have a water well drilled for you! We went down to 800' to hit into a Aqua Duck. It soft, Excellent, well water, and its very very cold. The best water i have ever drank, around the world. YUM so refreshing
Yeah but 40 bucks per feet
@@luisarashirovideo It took a few years to fine some one who would do it, at the price we could afford. 💲💲It was very expensive back when we had it done, Years back. at 10k! but I'll tell yea. 👉👉 its been, well worth every cent of it 💦💦
Great video, I can see that you are in Florida by the foliage around you. I live just north of Jacksonville and I am going to give your method a try. We already have well water here. Before it is processed it smells of sulphur. Still, without processing it is fine for my pigs and chickens.I would like a hand pumped well so it will work in an emergency such as when the power goes out in a hurricane.
Great video. The issue we have in northern Florida is that shallow wells are very high in iron. Unless the irrigation is away from houses or driveways, expect rust staining on everything. Unfortunately, you need to drill at least 80-100 feet to avoid this.
I know what you mean. I live in Panama City, we call it hard water. I’ve also smelled sulfur in it also. Would rain collection be a better idea?
@@73gmiller rain water is ok however it has its own issues. Good filtration for shallow wells is a good option however its more maintenance. Under NO circumstances should you EVER drink from shallow water wells without proper treatment. This is still a good option for gardens and general water uses. And with proper filtration just fine for washing clothes and flushing toilets. If I had it tested for E.coli and had some good filtration I may shower and wash dishes but still never drink unless treated and filtered.
@@73gmiller Depends on pollution in the air, catchment and storage capacity.
Rust is iron oxide or rust bacteria. You need to oxidize it. Exposure to oxygen is one way. What you can do is build an air driven air lift pump. Air lifts the water up to a vented storage tank which vents off the sulfur smell out of the water. Then you can pump it through a filter and treat with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) which when it oxidizes it turns to H2O (water). Then filter some more and its good to drink.
@sgtbrown4273 newsflash: as a child ,we drank from a shallow well hand crank cistern,most Def a shallow well,about 25 ft or less.
No problems. Was very refreshing to get a cool drink from.
You know,wells have been dug by settlers for hundreds of years, it won't kill you.
Now,if you live in New Jersey or Detroit,land of toxic waste pollution,OBVIOUSLY you won't drink that.
I'm in a lake region of Florida,its truly a gift from God,the water under the land here.
I do it very similar. I use a self jetting point and add to it on the way down. Thing is, those points are expensive. They are made for dewatering construction sites and the sieve size is a bit bigger than I would like if I was to drink the water. Filtered before the pump is how to get around that. Should use a filter anyways. Depending on your ground it is possible to overdrive your well and miss the water. Sometimes the clay is the end of drilling. Great video.
@larryspiller6633. Wow! So many smart points here Larry.
Anyway you could post a material list? Including fittings? Be very helpful and thank you for your video
Thank you Sir for great demonstration, advice on easy well method.
Wow, thank you very much
AWESOME WORK IM GOING TO DO THIS! 💯
Do you need to put gravel down the casing to prevent plugging up the point?
He skipped all of the lower casing info... He didn't do it for this demo.
so that well will clog and fail in a year or less.
There are better videos about the casing... It need sto go down as far as the water pickup plus a bit and needs some filtration media and then clay around the casing.
@@fhuber7507 You’re right, at the 20:17 mark he talks about reusing a well pump from a prior well. That tells me the prior well likely plugged.
Great job! 😊👍 I hope it's still productive
Fine job my man!
You made it look so easy! Ingenuity at work.
I would really love to know if this method can be applied in areas where the water table is hundreds of meters deep and what variations will be required to pump up the water.
Anyone with any ideas, please share.
@@davidkenyanya2437 its easy and fun project you can do it!
Thank you. I need a well drilled and I was told between 10 and 13k. I guess we all know what im doing
What are you doing ?
How did it go, did you get your well dug yet?
Great job, I would have added a connection where the pump innects to the one in the ground and also rant a plumb drop on a string to check the depth of water. A great job
very cool. how big of a mud pump did you use? what brand and model
Amazing how much they charge if you hire a professional well digger. Thanks for showing people how to do their own if needed!
You have to remember it is all about your soil type and composition. On the east coast I have washed down many shallow wells. In west Texas you need a drill bit to get through the sand shale. I have used a pvc threaded coupling to slip coupling on the threaded end I screwed in a steel nipple with teeth ground in the nipple to make a drill. You look like you are in Florida.
Hard clay on top of rock here. Most wells are at about 350'; some go down 700'. You need submersible deep well pumps for these--and a guy with a diesel rig with a hard-rock drill--and a bushel of money.
Thank you so much. I. am encouraged
Put a "T" piece onto the top with the " T" at a right angle and +- 12 " extension to direct your oveflow away from where you're working..!!
That's a ridiculous statement because as you have to leave the top open to insert the 1" pipe the overflow would still jet upwards. To suggest that the right angle opening would work as a pressure reliever is to say that the overflow has a "mind of its own" and can purposely choose to exit at the right angle and oppose the laws of physics to find the easier way out...which happens to be the upward direction.
Thank you, Sir. From Indonesia.
Always check local law's and make sure you own the water rights to the property and they don't have any codes saying you can't have a well .
I love the hydro well drill thank you for your time and hard work with the video
Why ?
@@andreycham4797 the state I live in you need a permit to drill any type of well and on top of the State permit you also need a county permit so here you need over $750 of permits for a water well that only is allowed so much water a year it sucks but it is the $$$ that drives most law's in America then they blame global warming for it
@@Victor.McCann this is my point , if I get caught drilling a well I have to pay $250 penalty in my state. Why would I want to lose $750 on permits plus thousands on contractors , just to avoid theoretical penalty? The only a reason you were saying this that you are contractor looking for fools to give you money
@@andreycham4797 here it is more of a fine it costs $2500 and possibly a jail sentence of a 1 + Year's so I will just keep hauling water at $40 per 1000 gallons
@@Victor.McCann what state are you in , North Korea ?
Great video chuck !! Thanks for sharing! Stay rad 🤙🏽
I'm curious why you didn't pull out the 2" pipe, put a 2" wellpoint on it, and put that back down the hole?
Great video! Thank you for that and hats off for doing by yourself.
Do you need to cement the 3” casing to prevent contamination to the water table from the surface?
I would 2’ down All concrete and use 4” standard metal casing threaded
Hey great video my brother! Absolutely amazing actually, that was fast as hell!!!!!
Very nice video. Now build a solar pump house.
That's the plan!
That's awesome. Wish I could do it here in Idaho, probably more rocks than you have. I've been looking for a small well drilling rig to buy, I'd spend 5k on one. I'm on City water for Irrigation, I grew up on farms and used to have a water well and water rights to a creek so it burns me to use drinking water on the lawn. Funny thing is we pay for irrigation, but they didn't run the ditched to us, the City says it was the developers responsibility and to go after them (1970). We can opt out of the service but if they ever run the ditch we wouldn't be allowed to tap off it! City living sucks. ( I do have Chickens). According to the City's well logs in the area water table is about 40 feet, so I need a 100' well.
So is the point of the well point at about 28 feet below ground level? Did you decide on that depth based on experience and where others are finding water in your neighborhood, or did you do some kind of testing? Thanks much for your great vids!
Hey I need to drill a 20 ft bore hole and empty out water for construction, I am going to be able to use this method to empty out the water, thank you so much!
I like it and I try it.
Can I ask you? This is pool pipe, right?
That was satisfying and it wasn't even my project, lol.
InnnnnnnnnnnnCREDIBLE
Other than going through hard-pan I have found that using just a regular trash pump (mud pump) to be preferrable over pressure-washer pump for jetting my own shallow well.
You are very fortunate to have soft soil that deep. My block has layers of sandstone varying from the surface to way past 100 feet deep.no way would you be able to rely on water pressure and PVC pipe for a drilling rod
Going through Sandstone you might have to use a spearpoint hammer drill
Great video! Thank you for sharing!
I would love to have this as back up. Garden or if water became unavailable. Is it allowed in a city on your own property. I could make it look like any other no freeze pump I have. I’m in Texas so would need to cheek my water table depth. But I know it’s not super deep. Can I use a no freeze hand pump once it’s cleared and set? I’d like this to not be something the public could hear. You know if SHTF!
Hi Beverly, You’re right! It’s a great irrigation for gardens, lawns, and sprinkler systems! Down here most all homes have shallow wells. Thanks for your comment!
Where do I go to find the Texas water table stuff?
Great job solo. Nice work
Awesome! This is great, would love to find a homegrown solution for my area with lots of rock and gravel
Same here, I have put this off for such a long time because I assume I'm just going to hit granite as soon as I start 🙃
@@nameless-og You might.
A lot of areas have shallow water about twenty feet down it shouldn't be drank without a reverse osmosis filter or testing because of how many areas have contamination at this level! Most states have well reports that say at what levels they hit water at !
Great vid. Double well spikes are pointless though and if part of that is higher than water table you’ll be sucking air and it won’t prime. Water is going to flow in to height of the water table regardless. This is the same way I built my well and then I pup gravel in the bottom as extra filtering prior to my well spike and my well spike didn’t go below the casing pipe.
The water table in Florida is high so drilling a well is not too hard. I would like to see how to drill down 200 to 300' to reach water, I would love to have well water in case bad times arrive in the future.
I need to do this to go down to 100ft. My well is shallow now and the sprinkler system runs it dry on occasion
I am also wondering if a much deeper well can be dug this way. In soft silty soil and clay like we have, I feel like it should be possible. However there are some considerations - for that kind of depth you need at least 4" casing because you need to be able to put a 4" well pump down inside. Also you have to sink a filter section down as your first piece if you want decent flow, I don't know if it's great for the filter section to be exposed to all that sludge as you bore, you'd have to be very diligent about developing the well after. Also you need a decent annulus around the whole casing so you can drop a gravel pack down there after, especially if you stopped in clay. I don't know if a method like this will produce such a wide hole (up to 8"). Maybe it's just a case of time and effort. I'm game to try, it would save me 10 grand easily (which I don't have to spend on a well).